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Plumbing

Braden Peak

2013-06-25 09:41:32

Q-With the recent heavy rains I heard a lot of people had water in their basements. How does the water get in and what precautions can be taken to prevent this problem?

A-That is a great question and since the recent rainfall caused a lot of flooding, this is a great time to address this issue. There are many causes of unwanted water in basements and the amount of water can also range from just a wet spot to several feet of water. Older homes and newer homes generally have different types of storm drainage because of changes in codes. Because of this, basement drainage issues must be diagnosed accordingly. The first step in water prevention is to learn how your basement is plumbed. Since there are many issues that can cause basements in both older homes and newer homes to take on water, I will share some recent service calls I am familiar with as a problem and solution scenario. Hopefully this will allow for a better understanding of what happens and what can be done to prevent it from happening again. Older Home with storm water gravity drain to sanitary sewer: Problem: Several inches of clear water standing in basement Solution: Clean the clogged floor basin drain line that the perimeter lines around the basement drain into. Problem: Several inches of dirty water standing in basement or remnants of toilet paper or solids around drain. Either the service lateral for the house is clogged or the city sanitary sewer main is clogged and/or overwhelmed with the amount of storm water running through it. Solution: Clean service lateral or if the city main is overwhelmed, contact your local city office and report the problem. Also an inline backflow prevention device to keep city waste water from back flowing into your basement should be installed by a professional. Home (Old or New) with Sump Pump: Problem: The toilets are gurgling when the sump pump is running. The water keeps cycling causing the sump pump to run continuously. Solution: Clear blockage from sanitary service lateral and replumb sump pump as soon as possible so that it does not discharge into the sanitary service lateral. Problem: Sump pump not operating. Solution: First of all, if you don’t feel comfortable with investigating the problem, consult with a professional. Check for power going to the electrical outlet serving the pump. Also, check the float switch on the pump. Determine if the pump needs to be replaced.

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Plumbing

Braden Peak

2013-04-30 08:19:36

Q-In some of your articles you have mentioned doing video inspections on drain lines. What information does a video inspection provide and is it really needed?

A-That’s a great question and I will try to answer it as non-biased as I can. I’m very fond of performing video inspections. Hands down it is one of the single most important tools we have. For lack of a better explanation, performing video inspections is the plumbing version of a colonoscopy. Video inspections reveal problems in a more efficient manner and it takes the guess work out of the equation. Some professionals choose not to take advantage of video inspection technology and I will agree it isn’t always needed. However, we don’t have x-ray vision and we can’t see underground so when the situation arises it is best to use the technology that is available. As I’ve covered before, a home inspection prior to purchasing a new house only covers a brief check of the drains. Unless the sewer line is video inspected, the inspector can only determine superficial problems or symptoms of a plumbing system. Until the home is occupied and water is being used accordingly the problems may be hiding out of sight. Sanitary service laterals can be expensive to repair or replace and finding out there is a problem before you purchase the house is always best. It doesn’t have to be a deal breaker, but rather it is simply an insurance policy. During the video inspection, the service lateral can also be located and traced via a sonde that is mounted inside the camera head and the use of a hand held locator. This feature is important in a number of ways. First of all, if a repair is needed the area of excavation needs to be mapped out and the depth needed to expose the pipe should be determined. That saves time and time saves money. If you are planning to build a structure, pool, or install landscaping it is best to have your sewer service lateral marked to avoid any intersections. The call before you dig companies do not locate sanitary sewer service laterals. Seeing the problem is only half of the equation. Finding the problem is the other half. Video inspections are not limited to just sewer service laterals. Water lines, storm lines, certain kinds of duct work, etc. can all be video inspected as long as they are large enough in diameter for the camera to travel through the line. Countless animal rescues have been made as well as lost valuables recovered using video inspection equipment. The cameras come in all shapes and sizes ranging from the size of your pinky finger to large scale crawler cameras for giant storm drains. A picture is always better than an educated guess. Would you rather take someone’s word or would you rather see it for yourself? In my experience, the video inspection process has saved thousands of dollars in time and resources over the years in determining how to attack or repair a problem area. There are too many scenarios to list here on how these systems have benefited professionals and the end user. As always, thanks for reading and if you have any questions regarding this article or any drain questions in general, please feel free to contact me. Thanks for reading.

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Plumbing

Braden Peak

2013-03-25 14:30:29

Q-Our basement flooded recently during a heavy rain and it ruined some of our appliances and belongings. Is there anything we can do to prevent this from happening in the future?

A-That’s a great question and a topic that we have covered in the past but it deserves to be covered again. With our rainy season approaching us quickly I thought I would touch on this topic again. Flooded basements due to heavy rain can be caused by various issues, but I will cover the most common culprits. First of all, a properly installed sump pump is an important part of your basement. These pumps are designed to take in the perimeter water around the basement and safely discharge this storm water outside of your home and away from the structure. They SHOULD NOT be tied to the sanitary sewer system. It is wise to check the pump periodically to make sure it is working by pouring water into the basin until the pump turns on. Also, if you have a battery backup unit in place should the electricity go off, make sure the battery is holding a proper charge. Older structures may have the perimeter lines around the basement tied to your sanitary sewer line. It is very important to make sure your sanitary sewer lateral is clean and free of blockages such as root intrusion. During heavy rainfall, these drain lines can be extremely taxed with water infiltration along with normal usage and perimeter water. If the main sewer lateral is even partially clogged, the water will possibly backflow into the basement. A backflow preventer on your main sewer lateral is vitally important. This unit is simply a flap that opens when you run water and shuts should any water try to backflow toward the structure. This type of backflow occurs when the municipal sanitary sewer main becomes clogged or full due to extreme water infiltration. Many of basements have flooded due to this problem. I have said it before and will rehash this again. It is easy to blame your particular city utility but the fact of the matter is it is going to happen with older mains and even the best of preventive maintenance. The best thing you can do is protect your structure and have a backflow preventer installed on your line. These can be installed in the basement or outside the structure. Hopefully this answers your question and helps people to understand some of the things that cause these problems. Sometimes these issues are not found until it is too late so it is best to plan ahead. As always, if you have any questions, please consult a professional. Thanks for reading.

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Plumbing

Braden Peak

2013-01-02 14:59:04

Q-We have to have our sewer lateral cleaned out every so often and it is always a tree root blockage. Is there anything I can add to our sewer line to kill the tree roots?

A-That is a very good question and probably the most asked question in our business. First, let me explain how the tree roots get into the line and that will help you to better understand how to control them. The only way a single strand of a tree root can enter a sewer line is if there is an opening in the line. In other words, the line is not completely sealed to the soil around it. This opening can be minuscule yet still allow a large tree root mass to grow inside. Once inside the pipe, the tree has hit the jackpot with your waste as it is a fertilizer. The root mass will continue to grow inside the pipe and eventually can take up enough area in the pipe to cause a blockage. Sewer pipes such as those constructed of clay tile are prone to this problem because each joint of pipe can potentially become an entrance for tree root intrusion. In most cases the root mass enters into the pipe through the top portion and sides of the joint or opening in the sewer line and then drape downward into the line. The water flow in sewer lines obviously follows the bottom of the pipe. In essence think of the tree root mass as a curtain. The lower the curtain the more chance you have for a blockage to occur. Root masses also take the shape and look of a horse tail. They drape into the sewer and blossom out as they travel downward with the flow of the pipe. Once the tail gets big enough a blockage can occur. Controlling roots can be difficult, especially if the majority of the pipe has root intrusion. In some cases it is best to replace the line. On the other hand if most of the pipe is good but suffers from a root blockage on occasion there are some additives that can be introduced to the system to help control them. A foaming additive made specifically for sewer lines is the best treatment that can be purchased because the roots generally grow in from the top and sides of the pipe. The foam helps to cover the entire pipe and video evidence supports its effectiveness. Rock salt flushed down a toilet or poured into a cleanout is a way to help control roots; however, keep in mind that the root mass must first be in the flow line. Otherwise the chances of the mass being attacked are very small. The same holds true for store bought sewer line root kill products. The active ingredient in these products is normally copper sulfate. Regardless of what method you use it is best to not run any water for several hours so as to not flush out the treatment. Also, keep in mind that these types of treatments may not cure the root intrusion problem. If you have any questions, it is best to consult a professional to help keep your line clear of tree roots. Thanks for reading!

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Plumbing

Braden Peak

2012-11-07 11:26:43

Q- We are planning to have some family gatherings during the holiday season. What precautions should we take for our drain system with extra people in the house?

A- Most people never think about this question until it is too late so I am glad you brought it up. First of all, obviously your system is going to get much more use than normal depending on the amount of people you host. Although you didn’t specify whether you are connected to city sewer or have an onsite system, I will cover precautionary tips for both systems. In previous articles we have answered questions about both systems so I will skip to the most important tips to hopefully avoid an embarrassing plumbing disaster. Regardless of which system you have, the best tip I can advise is to make sure your toilet(s) flush properly. They are going to get abused, especially if children are present. Kids tend to use more toilet paper than adults on most occasions so it is very important to have a toilet that is operating at its best. Speaking of toilet paper, for this occasion it is best to put away the soft quilted paper if you use it and buy a stock of thin ply paper that is septic safe. It will break apart and dissolve much quicker. This should be helpful should someone use too much. Also, hide the wet wipes. I generally don’t recommend flushing these on any occasion, but certainly not during a family gathering. Even though the box may say they are flushable, I can speak from experience and say they cause a lot of problems. If you are connected to city sewer and have an older system, make sure the main lateral is clear of any tree roots especially if you’ve had problems in the past. Your line may have issues and the extra use could cause a back-up. Also, if you have neglected your septic system it might be best to have it inspected and/or pumped well before your guests arrive. Last but certainly not least, make sure your kitchen sink is draining properly before your guests arrive and when it comes time to do the dishes, be sure to limit the use of the garbage disposal if you have one. If the disposal is used as a catch all for scrap food then your chances of a clogged drain are much greater. Even if you don’t have a disposal, make sure all plates have been wiped off before rinsing or placing them in the dishwasher. I hope these tips will help you to have a smooth and enjoyable holiday gathering. The holidays are just around the corner so it’s best to be proactive with your drain system now to avoid the dreaded holiday disaster that seems to occur with households each year. Thanks for reading!

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Plumbing

Braden Peak

2012-10-02 15:18:20

Q- We are remodeling our bathroom and we are trying to decide whether to keep our existing toilet which needs a tune up or to just replace it with a new unit. All of our other fixtures are going to be replaced and new plumbing installed. What recommendations do you have?

A- That’s a great question on a not so appealing topic, but believe it or not, what you decide now can literally save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars in efficiency over a long period of time. First off, I would need more information about your current toilet to properly answer your question, but I can give you general information that will make your decision easier. If your toilet was produced prior to the 1990’s, it most likely uses 3.5 gallons of water or more per flush. Since 1995 all toilets are federally mandated to use a maximum of 1.6 gallons of water per flush. These are known as low consumption toilets. Unfortunately some manufacturers did not incorporate new designs and stayed with the technology of the higher consumption toilets. What this means is a poor flush by the end user. Keep in mind, not all toilets are created equal. If you plan to purchase a new toilet, do your research or simply call a few qualified professionals and ask their opinions. Modern, well-designed low consumption toilets actually out-perform most of their older water wasting counterparts. You get a better flush and save money on your water and sewer bill. Of course, those that have a poorly designed low consumption toilet might disagree with that statement. If you have an older style toilet, I would definitely recommend replacing it. Although there are tricks out there to lower the water consumption of these toilets (lowering the amount of water these use per flush can reduce their performance) and replacement parts are available, in the long run you will save a decent amount of money by installing a new, quality toilet. If your toilet is a newer low consumption unit and you are happy with the performance, by all means give it a tune up and reinstall it. Since the bathroom is being revamped, now is the time to completely disassemble, replace all internal parts and gaskets, and give it a good cleaning. You can clean mineral buildup in the jets by using a calcium and lime remover chemical and a metal coat hanger or ice pick, etc. Flush out the bowl and tank with a garden hose and make sure the entire unit is free of debris and scale buildup. Now is also a good time to replace the tank to bowl gasket and bolts along with a new flush valve and fill valve. If the toilet handle rod is rusted or corroded, replace it as well. All of these items can be purchased at most hardware stores or through a plumbing professional for a reasonable price. Once the toilet is ready to install, inspect the floor for water damage and the mounting flange for cracks and then install a new seal and mounting bolts. Once installed, enjoy your newly refurbished and efficient toilet! If you do not feel comfortable in trying to do this type of work yourself, do not hesitate to call a professional. It is very important to properly install components and the toilet itself. That’s it for this month. The holidays will be here before we know it and I will have some tips to avoid a plumbing disaster during your family gatherings. Thanks for reading.

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Plumbing

Braden Peak

2012-08-30 08:36:51

Q- Our basement is my man cave for watching sports and entertaining guests. Lately we’ve noticed a sewer odor and we aren’t sure where it is coming from. It is an older home and basement with original plumbing. What can we do to find and fix the problem?

A- Let’s dig into this annoying situation and see if we can come up with a solution to this problem. The first place to look is your floor drain if you have one. These have a trap in the bottom to hold water. This design keeps the sewer gas and odors from filtering through the floor drain. If the water evaporates from the trap, the odor can filter into the basement via the sewer line. A simple fix is to pour water into the floor drain and do this periodically. You should see water at all times in the bottom of the floor drain. A majority of older floor drains also contain a clean out plug in the side of the floor drain housing. If this plug is missing, it is a direct and open line to your sewer and can allow sewer odors to escape. The plug could have been taken out at one time or another if the trap had a problem. By taking out the plug, it will sometimes allow the water to drain out if the floor drain will not allow incoming water to drain through the trap. Keep in mind, all drains should contain a trap if connected to sanitary sewer service and this practice is not recommended for a long term solution. Other areas to explore are any drains that may not be used such as a lavatory sink or shower. If one or more have not been used in a long period of time, the traps on these can also go dry and allow sewer odors to escape. Again, the best practice is to keep the traps hydrated on a regular basis. It is a good idea to do this throughout the house at any level of the structure. If these steps have been exhausted yet the smell still persists, then it could be more than a DIY project. The problem could be a result of a faulty seal under the toilet, a sanitary service line with a partial clog, or a faulty or inadequate vent. If the house is on a septic tank, the tank may need pumped. Of course, sometimes the culprit is in the last place you look and can be something totally off the wall. I hope these tips make your man cave experience a little more pleasant. That’s it for this month. Good luck to all of our local football teams. It’s a special time of year for players and fans alike. I know I’m excited to watch our Gorillas defend their title this year. Have fun and stay safe!

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Plumbing

Braden Peak

2012-08-02 08:09:34

Q- Our basement flooded recently during heavy rainfall and caused a lot of damage. What causes this problem and how can we prevent it from happening in the future?

A- Flooded basements can be a nightmare, especially if they are finished and contain valuable items. Many basements contain HVAC units, hot water heaters, and appliances which can be damaged or destroyed when submerged in water. There are a few things that can cause flooded basements and there are some prevention measures you can take as a homeowner. In older homes, the perimeter drain around the basement wall and floor may be tied into the sanitary sewer lateral. If the sewer lateral is clogged, the water will surface in the lowest spot of the basement which is usually a floor drain. More storm water equals more water in your basement because the water has nowhere to drain. In some cases the perimeter lines empty into a deep basin floor drain. If the floor drain gets clogged, the water will start pooling in the basement. The difference between the two problems listed above is one contains a sewage and storm water backup versus just a storm water backup. Regardless of which occurs, it is best to call a professional immediately to clean the lines and allow the water to drain. Many homes new and old have a sump pump in the basement. These are designed to take the perimeter water coming into the basement and pump it away from the house. These should not be plumbed into the sanitary sewer as it is a code violation and can also cause major problems if your service lateral becomes clogged. If you have a sump pump and your basement floods anyway, chances are the pump has a problem. Sometimes the pump just has a minor issue and a quick fix can be made. On the other hand, the pump can fail and need replaced or the discharge line can become clogged. Perhaps the ugliest and most horrifying flooded basement culprit of all is a city sanitary sewer main backup. During extreme rainfalls or in areas with an aging city main, the line that serves houses on your block can become overwhelmed or clogged. The water seeks its level and begins to enter basements, sometimes at an alarming rate. Although in a state of panic, it is easy to point fingers and blame your city public works department, keep in mind there is a step you can take to avoid this mess. Backflow preventers installed on your sewer line contain a hinged and sealed flap that stays normally shut. When you use water and it drains through the sewer line, the flap opens to allow the water to flow out. However, the flap will stay shut should any water try to flow back the opposite direction, such as the case during a city main backup. If you want to avoid someone else’s sewage surfacing in your basement, these are a must have item. The best advice I can give to avoid a flooded basement is to make sure your house is plumbed properly, be prepared, and do preventative maintenance. Make sure your sump pump is working properly by occasionally dumping buckets of water into the basin. Also test your floor drains on occasion by dumping water in them. Your sewer line should also be inspected or cleaned regularly. And last but not least, if your basement level sewer line does not contain a backflow preventer, I strongly suggest having one installed.

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Plumbing

Braden Peak

2012-06-01 11:28:50

Q: I have heard many myths (some really dumbfounding) regarding my septic tank and how to maintain it. I’m sure you’ve heard them all, but which are true and which are busted?

A: As I stated last month, I understand these wastewater topics aren’t the most appetizing and can even be humorous to some, but they are real and can be vital to a smoothly running plumbing system. Since a septic system utilizes a natural process to digest and function, in one way it is similar to the digestive system in your body. Continuous neglect and harmful products introduced in our system will cause our body to eventually fail. The same holds true for septic systems. Here are some myths, do’s, and don’ts concerning maintaining your system: MYTH •Septic tanks don’t need to be pumped if they are working properly. Actually it is very important to have your system periodically inspected and your tank pumped. The length of time between pumps is based on the number of occupants and the size of the tank. In most cases the tank should be pumped at least every three to five years and more often in certain situations. Septic tanks need cleaned out to avoid excessive sludge and scum buildup which can eventually wash out into the leach field and ruin it. Hair, lint, and fiber from bathing and clothes washing also need to be periodically removed from the tank to prevent leach field clogs. •If I use a flushable septic system additive, I shouldn’t have to pump my tank as often or possibly ever.According to some scientists, additives such as those advertised on TV or even yeast are not as helpful as you might think. The tank already contains enough bacteria from waste to function properly (in most cases) provided the system is used and not abused. A regular pumping schedule and inspection is the best maintenance you can do. Keep in mind some states have banned the sale of additives. Additives are a great debate in the septic hauler industry. •Throwing a dead animal in the tank will help the decomposition process of the septic system. There is no need to throw anything in the septic tank! See the myth above. THINGS YOU SHOULD DO •Locate your septic tank and leach field. This is very important in order to establish a regular system maintenance schedule. This is also important should you plan any construction such as decks, home additions, outbuildings, or driveways. Avoid building or driving over the septic system. If you are not sure where to find your system, contact a septic hauler professional. •Conserve water as much as possible. Make sure you don’t have any leaking toilets or faucets. Excessive water can saturate or even flood a septic system. Consider switching to low consumption fixtures and appliances. Not only will you save on your water bill but your septic system will perform better. •Divert storm water runoff away from the leach field. Heavy rainfall can saturate the ground and cause problems with septic systems. •Use thin ply toilet paper labeled “Septic System Safe” on the packaging. Thick, quilted paper remains dense in the tank and tends to clump together. •If you are planning to buy a house, call a septic professional for an inspection for the entire septic system. These types of inspections are beneficial to pinpoint potential problems and code violations. THINGS YOU SHOULDN’T DO: •Do not flush anything other than what will decompose. Avoid flushing sanitary napkins, wet wipes, other personal hygiene products, cigarette butts, or coffee grounds. Also avoid using large quantities of household cleaners and chemicals as these will destroy the bacteria in the tank. •Do not plant trees or shrubs near the septic tank or leach field. The roots can invade the system and cause blockages and damage. •If you must use a garbage disposal, use it very sparingly. Fats and food particles tend to float through the tank and straight out to the leach field. Over time, heavy use can clog the leach field. •Most importantly, it is best to not wait until you have a backup to perform maintenance on your tank. Sometimes the system can be neglected long enough to cause a costly leach field failure. Consult a septic professional to perform routine maintenance and inspections to avoid costly and untimely system failures. Septic systems are a safe and effective way to dispose of the wastewater as long as they are installed correctly and maintained on a regular basis. Common sense and a little care go a long way to ensure your system will function for years to come. Another onsite system that is somewhat popular in this area is a sewage lagoon, but that will be a topic for another day.

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Plumbing

Braden Peak

2012-04-20 08:26:17

Q: We have a septic system. How does it work and how do we maintain it?

A: First of all, I understand these wastewater topics aren’t the most appetizing and can even be humorous to some, but they are real and can be vital to a smoothly running plumbing system. With that said, a septic system is an onsite waste water system. Last month we covered systems draining to a municipal sanitary sewer system. The waste water in those systems eventually flows to a treatment facility or series of lagoons where it is digested and then dispersed. A septic system takes in the waste water and then digests and disperses it on the property. It’s actually a very simple process but the system itself is usually out of sight and out of mind and sometimes that can be a problem. Structures on a septic system are plumbed very similar to structures plumbed to a sanitary sewer main. The only difference is rather than flowing to a sewer main, the waste water drains into a tank. These tanks vary in sizes and shapes and are measured in gallons. The most common size is 1000 gallons, but some of the older systems utilize smaller tanks. Also, large homes may use a 1500 gallon tank. There are other unique setups but for now we will stick to the basics. Once the waste water flows into the septic tank, the process of digestion begins. The solids fall to the bottom and form the sludge layer. Liquid waste stays in the middle and the left overs including fats and oils help to form the scum or bacteria layer at the top. Septic tanks contain millions of bacteria that are a healthy part of the system. Obviously, the tank has to have a way to release the excess water. This is accomplished in most cases via a leach field or sometimes referred to as a lateral field. This is an area on your property that contains a series of buried pipes with several small holes in them surrounded by a special rock bed. This system safely disperses and filters the effluent water into the ground that flows out of the tank. Again, certain systems utilize different methods to disperse this water. Some contain just one pipe that open ends on the surface, but keep in mind, these systems are no longer legal. The leach field is a very important component of the septic system. If it can’t filter and disperse the water, the entire septic system will fill up and you will either have waste water standing in your yard or the waste will stop draining out of the structure. There are many myths involved with septic systems. Next month we will discuss and debunk those myths, as well as some “do’s and don’ts” concerning maintenance to your system.

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Plumbing

Braden Peak

2012-03-23 09:02:44

Q: I’m planning to purchase a home in town and I’m concerned about the sewer and drain system. What steps should we take to avoid problems?

A: That’s a great question and one that all potential buyers and current homeowners should ask to protect their investment. Problems with drain systems can be a small problem with an easy fix or they can be a big problem with a costly fix. If you are considering the purchase of a residential or commercial property with a drain system, it is best to check every drain to make sure it is functioning properly. It is tempting to jump in with both feet with excitement once you’ve found that dream home or investment property, but without thoroughly checking the entire plumbing system you could be asking for trouble. Some of these problems could include root intrusion in the service lateral (the service lateral is the main drain line exiting the structure which connects to the municipal sanitary sewer main), broken or collapsed service lateral, interior drain lines under the structure or in the basement that are clogged or in need of replacement, problems with fixtures using excessive water, and faulty or incorrectly plumbed sump pumps. This is a sample of the checklist you can use to find any issues that may arise. The technology used today is far superior to simply flushing a toilet or turning on a bath tub to make sure it drains. Camera inspections of the service laterals is a service that select drain professionals offer to see inside the pipe. This is a popular service that can truly save thousands of dollars. Even if the seller or previous owner indicated no drain issues, a problem could be lurking out of sight. A visual of the problem areas and an exact location and depth of those areas can be provided. You can possibly avoid the surprise of a flooded basement or a backup of every drain in the structure. With this service, a professional can determine whether the lines are clear, need cleaned, or need repaired or replaced. Most problems with service laterals stem from the material of which it is made or the method in which the pipe was installed. Clay tile pipe was a popular material used for main service laterals prior to the early 1980’s. This is a sectioned heavy pipe that older structures utilize from the foundation out and in certain cases, under basement floors. Through natural aging, each joint of pipe can potentially be an entrance for tree root intrusion and water infiltration. Root intrusion, natural ground shifting, or heavy traffic on the surface above the pipe can cause these joints to become uneven or broken. Orangeburg pipe is a waste line composed of wood fiber and tar. Although this pipe has been in the ground for fifty years or more, the condition of the pipe is usually deformed and deteriorated which can cause blockages and allow root intrusion to occur. PVC pipe is the common material used today for new construction and replacement. As long as the correct wall thickness is used and it is installed correctly, this type of pipe should give you years of trouble free use providing it is used properly. This topic covered systems connected to a sanitary sewer service. Next month, we will cover our rural residents with onsite waste systems.

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Plumbing

Tommy Steven

2005-02-01 11:24:00

: What should I do if the sewer backs-up into my house?

ANSWER: The back-up of sewage through the drains in your home or business is an unpleasant prospect. Fortunately, there are some things you can do to prevent this from happening to your property. But first, let's go through an easy lesson in some basic plumbing. Wastewater flows through small sewer lines on your property out to the larger public lines in the rear utility easement or the front street easement. From there the sewage travels by gravity or pressure to a sewage treatment facility. The stream is constant, with peaks in the morning and evening. Each day millions of gallons of wastewater safely reach your wastewater treatment facility to be treated, reclaimed, and returned to the environment. Unfortunately, a blockage in any of the sewer lines can interfere with this normally quiet, out-of-sight process. A blockage in the private or public lines can cause a back-up through floor drains and toilets at the lowest point in your home or business. The overflow will continue until the blockage is removed or until sewage is no longer entering the line. Regular maintenance of this area of your home can help prevent blockages. Customer information is available to help customers understand what can safely be disposed of down the drain. But if an overflow happens, you should immediately discontinue putting water and other material down the drains. Sewers get stopped up from a variety of things being put down the drains which should not have been disposed of that way in the first place. For example, kitchen grease, disposable diapers and sanitary napkins can accumulate and cause a blockage if you attempt to flush them down the drain or stools. Tree roots and grass seeking moisture can grow through cracks in the lines, causing a blockage. Vandals have even stopped up lines by putting bricks, wood, oil filters and even Christmas trees into manholes. Illegal hookups allow excess water into the lines. Outside stairwell drains, sump pumps, roof leaders, and drain gutters should never be connected to the sewer system. A sewer system is designed to carry a predetermined amount of sewage. Rain water not only overloads the system, but also raises the cost of the treatment process. Prevention? Don't plant trees near your sewer lines, because invariably the roots will find their way to your sewer lines and penetrate them. Also, do not connect your sump pump to the sanitary sewer system.Locate and keep accessible the sewer cleanout in your front or rear yard. If you do not have a cleanout, have one installed by a licensed plumber. The cleanout installation is the property owner's responsibility. Check your homeowner's insurance policy. If you are not covered for back-ups, call your agent for information on costs and coverage options. If you experience a back-up, save all receipts related to any repair, cleaning or damages for proof of loss in the event you're covered. The mess from a sewage backup is never pleasant, and it might make some sense to have your sewer lines put on a low cost maintenance program with your local sewer cleanout experts. Most companies who have been in business for any length of time offer maintenance plans for sewers as well as plumbing systems. Waiting until you see the backed up mess all over your floors is never desirable. Coming home from vacation to find that your tired old water pipe joints have popped loose while you were gone and filled your basement up with water can pretty much ruin your day…More next month…

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Plumbing

Tommy Steven

2005-02-01 09:22:00

: Is there an easy explanation of how my sewer system works?

ANSWER: Unlike the supply system, which uses pressure to deliver water throughout your house, the drainage system depends on gravity to take wastewater away. All of the water used in the sinks, toilets, and tubs throughout the house must flow down to the sewer or septic line in the basement through a network of increasingly larger drainpipes. This system is called the drainage, waste, and vent system.Larger pipes allow water to drain quickly. The larger the diameter of the drain pipe, the more water it can handle. In fact, drainpipes are quite a bit larger than supply pipes. But it's not just because they handle water… waste disposal also requires space for air and gas buildup, too. Waste deposited into the sewer line decomposes, producing noxious gases. Traps prevent these gases from backing up and being released into your house. A trap typically is a U-shaped bend of pipe that traps a small amount of water inside it every time you use the appliance. The trapped water acts as a barrier between your house and the sewer gas inside your drain network. Every plumbed appliance in your home is required by law to have a trap. Sink traps are easy to spot, but toilet traps are contained within the toilet, and are less obvious. Although these traps are very effective barriers, the sewer gas pressure building up inside the drains would eventually overcome them if the system were not vented.  Venting gives gas pressure a better way to escape your drainage system than backing up into the home. Each appliance has a drainpipe connected to a still larger drainpipe that eventually descends to the basement. The same original drainpipe is also connected to a vent pipe that runs into a still larger vent pipe extending through the roof of your house. These roof vents (some homes have more than one) provide an alternate route for the gases and fumes to escape your drainage system. Vents also allow air to enter the system. Without air, the wastewater would not be able to flow out. Think of a plastic gas can or even a can of juice: The liquid inside cannot flow out unless a vent hole is opened to allow air in to keep it flowing. Your home vent system works by the same principle. For wastewater to move freely throughout the network of drainpipes and out to the sewer, there has to be a way for air to get into the system. Otherwise, the drains would drain very slowly, if at all. In fact, adequate venting is so important that a partially blocked roof vent can slow your drains down to a standstill.Water moving through a drainpipe also displaces air that's already in the pipe. If the air has no place to go it will cause a pressure bubble inside the pipe. This pressure buildup will stop additional drain water from entering the pipe. Venting the pipe allows the pressure from the displaced air to escape, again keeping it all flowing.There is no such thing as a horizontal waste pipe. All waste pipes must run vertically or have enough downward pitch or slope to allow gravity to do its job and pull the water quickly through the pipe. Drainpipes cannot snake around obstacles within walls, either. Twists and turns can cause slowdowns or backups within the system, so be sure there is enough room for drainpipes to drop on their way to the waste stack or main drainpipe. After all, the last thing you need is a drainage system that doesn't drain. The large, collecting drainpipe inside the wall slopes horizontally downward and joins a larger, vertically descending drainpipe called a waste stack. The waste stack receives drainage pipes from other appliances as it descends through the interior wall space. When it reaches the basement, the waste stack connects to the main sewer or septic line that exits the house through the foundation. The other end of the waste stack ascends vertically through the roof of the house, becoming a roof vent. At each point in the wall where an appliance is joined to a larger drain line, it is also connected to a vent pipe. These secondary vent pipes, formed at the junctions where appliances run into the collecting drains, are connected to the roof vent. Since every appliance must be vented, there may be two or more roof vents in a particular house. Vent pipes from lower floors must join the roof vent above the upper floor appliances to avoid backups in the system. Unlike drainpipes, vent pipes can run horizontally since gas-air pressure is drawn upward by the lower atmospheric pressure outside the house. If you experience waste pipe blockages or sewer stoppages at your house, call your local sewer cleaning professional for quick, painless relief. More next time…

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Plumbing

Tommy Steven

2005-01-01 09:20:00

: How do you get rid of roots in a sewer line?

ANSWER:  Tree roots in sewer lines are probably one of the top ten plumbing problems, especially in older homes. Mother Nature has equipped many trees with sophisticated sensing capabilities. The trees send out feeder roots in all directions in a search for both nutrients and water. Due to the fact that sewer lines continually have water running through the line on a regular basis, roots are naturally drawn to this water source.Tree roots enter sewer pipes through small cracks in the joints between individual pieces of pipe. Old clay pipes often had the joints packed with mortar. Over time this mortar can develop cracks or shrinkage cracks can develop as the mortar hardens. If tiny feeder roots discover these cracks they enter the pipe and continue their search for moisture and food. Once inside the pipe the roots enlarge and gorge themselves on the plentiful supply of water and food. Sewer workers have actually taken out grotesque roots that have been over ten feet long and nearly one inch thick in diameter. Did you know that putting the byproducts of your home-cooked meals down the kitchen sink can cause sewer overflows? All year long, people pour byproducts of cooking down their sink drain and the fats, oil and grease build up in pipes and cause blockages, which can lead to sewage backups and overflows inside homes or in public streets. Here are a few steps you can take to help prevent this problem:• Do not put dairy products, fats, oil, grease or greasy foods down the garbage disposal or drain. • Freeze small amounts of fats, oils and grease in a lidded container and dispose of it in a trash receptacle. • Mix small amounts of cooking oil with an absorbent material such as cat litter or coffee grounds, place it in a lidded container and dispose of it in a trash receptacle. • For large quantities of cooking oil and other fats (1 gallon or more), call the Household Hazardous Waste Collection Facility in your area, for guidance on disposal.• Finally, when you see the stools or floor drains begin to show signs of backing up, or not flowing properly into the sewage system, it's time to call in the experts to clean those lines out. Pouring drain cleaners down the drain can become draining on your wallet, and you more than likely, will not solve your drainage problem that way.

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Plumbing

Tommy Steven

2004-03-01 14:01:00

Tommy Steven Question:  Does natural gas corrode galvanized pipe?  If so, what type of pipe should you use? 

ANSWER:  In the old days it did happen that natural gas would corrode galvanized pipe, but it was generally due to the poor quality of galvanizing. Today using galvanized pipe generally presents no threat. Plumbers tend to use black pipe with gas however for two main reasons. One is that it generally costs less than galvanized. The other is using galvanized pipes for water and black pipe for gas distinguishes the two uses. Imagine using galvanized for both gas and water in the same house. That could present a problem in people distinguishing which pipes are carrying what.   Some plumbers paint galvanized pipes used for gas 'yellow'. Today there is flexible stainless steel gas pipe and it is most always 'yellow' so painting piping used for gas 'yellow' makes sense.  If pipe is in the ground it will tend to corrode faster, depending upon soil conditions. Many areas do not allow galvanized pipe underground for gas piping and factory coated steel pipe must be used. In some areas plastic pipe is allowed underground, with electric wire above it to allow for the locating of that plastic gas pipe as well as warning tape above that pipe. As always is the case, first one has to look at the code for the specific area then the best solution can be found.

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Plumbing

Tommy Steven

2004-02-01 09:19:00

: We just went through a huge mess with our sewer backing up in the basement.  How could this have been avoided?

ANSWER: The two most common causes of sewer backups are roots in the sewer line and grease blockages. Know where your sewer line is located. Avoid planting trees and shrubs near the sewer line. Roots can creep into the sewer pipe, and over time, cause a blockage. If trees or shrubs have caused problems in the past, remove them, because once roots have breached your sewer line, they will, without a doubt, grow back. Typically, the best way to clear a blockage is to call a professional sewer cleaning service. Professionals use a highly specialized chemical process, and together with that, they will "cut" the roots from your sewer pipe. This process should be repeated annually to prevent trouble, such as backed up drainpipes and toilets. Many people don't realize it, but tree and grass roots grow more in the wintertime than the summertime, and that's when the majority of blockages occur. Try to avoid spending money on so-called "miracle" root killers. Not only are you using potentially hazardous chemicals, roots typically enter through the top section of the pipe, where chemicals sit on the bottom and seldom come in contact with the roots. Stop using the kitchen sink and garbage disposal for grease or food scraps. Vegetables, meat scraps, butter, cooking oils, and many other foods, deposit grease and solids that can build up in pipes, and eventually, create a blockage in your sewer line. Instead of putting food waste into a garbage disposal, scrape food waste from plates and pans into the garbage. Let melted oils used for cooking solidify in a container (empty juice cartons or coffee cans work well) on the counter or in the refrigerator before placing them into the garbage.

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Plumbing

Tommy Steven

2004-01-01 10:56:00

: As it relates to sewer and drain cleaning... what is a 'P-trap' and what is a 'Clean-out'?  How effective are chemicals towards solving a sewer or drain problem?

ANSWER: All drains have a U shaped pipe called a P-trap that traps water to stop the flow of air from the sewer that is highly offensive. The wastewater entering the P-trap is higher than the exiting wastewater so good flow will move solids in the wastewater down the drain. The P-trap can be seen easily under sinks.  Accessible P-traps under sinks can usually be taken apart and put together with your hands, but unclogging it can sure become a mess if you don't know what you're doing.  All drains have clean outs, or should have. Clean outs are accesses to get into the line. Clean outs are located in walls, under sinks, in cabinets or closets. The main line clean out is located just outside the foundation where the main line exits the house. It should be at or near ground level with a noticeable screw in cap. The outside clean out is very important. Most blockages are in the main line. The larger blades needed to properly clean a main line can only enter the main line through the outside clean out or through a roof vent that has the same diameter as the main line.  Plumbing code now requires all main lines to have an outside accessible clean out. For the most part, many sewer and drain chemicals do more harm than good.  They have been marketed very well in our society, but most chemicals are the single most destructive additive to your drains and septic systems. They drastically shorten the life of your drains and drain fields. Yes, if they can reach the blockage they do eat it away, but they only eat small holes and cannot remove the entire blockage. More importantly they eat away at your pipes just as fast. Many of these types of chemicals are also harmful to humans and corrosive to drain cleaning machinery. Further, since they are toxic, they kill the natural beneficial bacteria needed to properly maintain a septic system.  You see, there is both good and bad bacteria.  The type of bacteria found in sewer and septic systems is needed for the system to function properly.  Most professional sewer and drain cleaning companies will offer chemicals that are used specifically for maintaining the drain so that it will eat solid material as water flows through the line as opposed to using it for opening a drain.  These chemicals are completely biodegradable and non-hazardous.

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Plumbing

Richard Tade

2002-09-01 09:27:00

:  I recently moved into a new home and the kitchen sink and bathroom lavatory faucets need to be replaced. A friend of mine told me I could save some money if I purchased the faucets myself and had my plumber install them.   Should I go to one of the "do-it-yourself" stores and buy the faucets and have my plumber install them, or should I have the plumber supply the faucets and install them?

Richard Tade Question:  I recently moved into a new home and the kitchen sink and bathroom lavatory faucets need to be replaced. A friend of mine told me I could save some money if I purchased the faucets myself and had my plumber install them.   Should I go to one of the "do-it-yourself" stores and buy the faucets and have my plumber install them, or should I have the plumber supply the faucets and install them? Answer:  Yes, you could probably save some money by purchasing the faucets yourself and having your plumber install them, but you might want to consider all the facts before making this decision.  From my experience, sometimes there is a difference in the quality of the product purchased from a plumber vs. the "do-it-yourself" stores.If you purchase the faucets yourself, you will be responsible for any missing or defective parts on the faucet. Depending on the faucet brand you purchase, you will probably have to call an 800 number to get any missing or defective part(s) replaced.  Plus, you will probably have to pay the plumber to remove the faucet, if necessary, and pay him again to reinstall the replacement faucet or part.  Most products or parts that have a "lifetime" warranty do not cover the labor associated with the replacement.  If you purchase the faucet through your plumber, you should get a full parts and labor warranty.  Depending on the company, this should be anywhere from one to five years.  This means that anytime in the warranty period, if you have a problem with the faucet, it will cost you nothing to have it repaired or replaced, assuming that the problem was not caused by abuse.   If you want a faucet that is out of the ordinary, most plumbers work with plumbing wholesalers that have showrooms where you can see all the latest and greatest faucets available.  After you pick out the faucet, it is billed through your plumber and when he installs it, you get a full parts and labor warranty.The bottom line is what level of liability do you want to assume.  Let's say you had your plumber install a brand new faucet you purchased.  You saved $$ over what your plumber quoted you for the same faucet.    Nine months later the faucet starts leaking.  What is your time worth if you have to sit "on-hold" waiting for the customer service rep for the manufacturer to take your call.  Then you wait another 5-7 days to receive the defective part in the mail.  All this time you can't use the new faucet because it was leaking so bad you had to turn off the water.  When the part(s) arrives, you have to stay home or miss work for your plumber to come back out and reinstall the part(s) that you received in the mail, plus you have to pay him a service charge to reinstall the part.   Something to think about.

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Plumbing

Richard Tade

2002-08-01 10:25:00

:  When it rains, our sump pump runs constantly.  I'm afraid that sometime when we are out of town, it will rain and the sump pump will fail.  What should I do to avoid coming home to a flooded basement? 

Richard Tade Question:  When it rains, our sump pump runs constantly.  I'm afraid that sometime when we are out of town, it will rain and the sump pump will fail.  What should I do to avoid coming home to a flooded basement?  Answer:  There are several factors to consider when deciding how to protect your basement from flooding.  The number one consideration would be what will be destroyed or damaged if your basement floods.  This could help you decide what level of protection you want.  As with most things in life, you get what you pay for.  In my opinion, the ultimate protection would be two standard 110 volt submersible cast iron sump pumps  with an AC/DC battery back-up sump pump.  If you presently have only one sump pump, there will come a time when it fails.  By having two 110V pumps, one being installed above the other, the odds of both failing at the same time are rather remote.  As long as you have electricity, you will be in good shape.  In the event you loose power to the pumps, the AC/DC battery back-up pump will come on.   When choosing a back up system, you need to have a general idea of how much water the back-up will be required to pump per hour.  A standard sump pump will pump in the neighborhood of 2000 gallon per hour.  Most battery back-up systems will pump about half this much, or around 1000 gallons per hour.  Can you image how you would feel if your main sump pump failed during a heavy rain, the battery back-up pump comes on but cannot keep up with the amount of water flowing into the sump basin and your basement floods anyway?  This could happen if the back-up system is improperly sized.  The AC/DC system that I prefer has a pumping capacity equal to most standard 110V sump pumps, plus it will run off 110V if power is available.  The only time it runs off the battery is when no electricity is available, and it is designed to run continuously for up to seven hours on the battery.  I can't remember a time when our electricity was out for seven hours. If you don't like the battery type systems, there is one back-up sump pump that runs off your house water supply.  The problem with this type of system is it's pumping capacity.  It will generally only pump about 25% as much as a standard sump pump, or roughly 500 gallons per hour.  If you have a severe water problem, this type of system would probably not work for you.System costs:  Adding another standard sump pump and the water activated back-up sump pump - $700 - $1,000.  Adding another standard sump pump and the AC/DC battery back-up sump pump - $1,100 - $1,500.  If all this is more than you want to deal with, get a battery operated water alarm and set next to the sump basin.  It will sound when the basin starts to overflow.  Cost - $25.

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Plumbing

Richard Tade

2002-04-01 13:45:00

Question:  What causes noisy pipes and what can I do about it?

Answer: Noisy pipes can be caused by several factors. Let's start with what is commonly known as ‘water hammer’.    Water hammer is a destructive  force that can damage residential or commercial plumbing systems. Not only is "noisy plumbing" an annoyance, but shock forces due to water hammer can rupture copper supply lines or cause joints to leak.   Water rushing through the pipe and out the faucet moves with speed and force. When you shut off the faucet, the water flow is brought to an abrupt halt.  This abrupt halt is what causes water hammer.Pumps, valves, faucets, toilets, and  solenoid-activated valves, as commonly found in washing machines and dishwashers, are all examples of devices that can induce water hammer within a plumbing system. Water hammer can result in noisy, banging sounds as pipes rattle and expand to absorb the pressure wave.  If left unchecked, water hammer can damage pipes, valves and eventually weaken joints.  Failure to properly address water hammer can yield the following dangers:•  Broken water pipes•  Leaking connections•  Pipe vibration and noise•  Loosened pipe hangers and supports• Damage to or premature failure of washer & dishwasher solenoid valves, water heaters and toilet fill valves.  Traditionally, the solution to water hammer has been to install pipe risers inside the wall at each faucet or valve junction.  In theory, the risers would trap air as the plumbing system is first filled with water. The column of air acts as a natural damper, compressing as it absorbs residual shock waves from a sudden change in the water flow.  Their are two problems associated with pipe risers.  First of all, they eventually fail due to water logging and secondly, studies have found they could be a possible breading ground for bacteria and other muck, which could possibly contaminate the whole house water supply causing unexplained illness.  The best solution to water hammer is proper pipe sizing and water hammer arresters.Another cause of plumbing noise is  a loose pipe under the house or in the walls.  Water pipes are usually attached to the floor joists or vertical studs in the walls.   If your water lines are visible, either in the basement or crawl space, have someone turn a faucet on and off real quick while you observe the water lines.  If the problem is caused by an improperly secured pipe, you might be able to find the source by listening and looking.Whistling or squealing in pipes is often caused by a worn out or loose washer in a faucet or valve.  A loose washer acts like a reed on a saxophone.  When the water flows past the washer, it vibrates very rapidly causing the whistling or squealing.  If the problem washer is in a faucet, it should be easy to find.  It will only whistle or squeal when the faucet is turned on.  Other places to find a problem washer could be in the house main water supply shut off valve, the washing machine shut off valves and certain toilet fill valves use washers too.  Depending on the style and age of the toilet fill valve, your might be able to repair it.  If not, replace it with a new fill valve.

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Plumbing

Richard Tade

2001-07-01 09:02:00

:  It seems to me that in this day and age of putting men into space and all sorts of discoveries, we should be able to find a toilet that flushes when you press the handle... once.  What is the lowdown on toilets?  I hear there are now "air assisted" toilets.  How do they work?  Where does the air come from?

Richard Tade Question:  It seems to me that in this day and age of putting men into space and all sorts of discoveries, we should be able to find a toilet that flushes when you press the handle... once.  What is the lowdown on toilets?  I hear there are now "air assisted" toilets.  How do they work?  Where does the air come from?Answer:  I couldn't agree with you more!   You should be able to find a toilet that flushes right the first time.   Let me assure you, they do exist.  The problem of bad flushing toilets started when the Federal Government mandated that all toilets installed after January 1, 1996 flush on 1.6 gallons of water or less.  Manufacturers have been making 1.6 GPF toilets since the late 80's, but most installed before 1996 were used commercially.   Early on, it was not uncommon for  some builders to install 1.6 GPF toilets on a project, have the project inspected, then remove the 1.6 GPF toilets and replace with 3.5 GPF toilets.  This would eliminate phone calls from irate homeowners at midnight because a toilet in their brand new $200,000 home had stopped up and was running all over their master bathroom floor.There are 3 kinds of low flush toilets available.  Gravity, vacuum assist and pressure assist.  Most toilets are gravity type, which use the weight of the water in the tank, plus a unique  bowl design to create the flush.  The second type of toilet, the vacuum assist,  relies on gravity plus a super siphoning effect created by a special bowl and tank design. Toilet tank water displaced during the flush exerts a vacuum pull to assist the push force of gravity.  The third type of toilet, the pressure assist,  is sometimes referred to as air assisted.   The pressure assist flush is created by the use of a separate metal tank located inside the toilet tank, which is pressurized by the house water pressure.   When the toilet is flushed, the pressurized air is released, reacting like a tightly-wound spring, surging the water out of the tank at a high velocity.  The pressure or air assisted are the best flushing, but they are expensive,  noisy and more complicated to repair than a gravity flush toilet.  A wide selection of 1.6 GPF toilets are now on the market. Here are a few things to consider before purchasing a toilet.Price.  Please don't make your decision on price alone. Other factors affecting the performance of the toilet are important to consider as well.    Trap Size.  The number one concern regarding toilet performance is its ability to flush well without clogging. Larger traps are less likely to clog.  Also,  lower priced toilets are more susceptible to inconsistencies in the internal glazing of the trap way.  This will cause the toilet to stop up more frequently.  Surface area of the bowl water.   Another important concern is how clean the toilet remains between regular scrubbings. Toilets with larger bowl water surface areas generally require fewer cleanings.  In conclusion.    Over the years, I have installed toilets made by numerous manufacturers, in all price ranges.   I believe the air assist is the best flushing toilet on the market, followed by a handful of gravity toilets.   When it comes to toilets, I believe you do get what you pay for.