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Antiques & Collectibles

Scott Childs

2003-12-01 09:52:00

: What are Atomic Clocks and Radio-Controlled Clocks?

ANSWER: Long ago, we used to measure time by measuring the Earth's rotation.  Today we use a method which basically measures the number of vibrations a certain element gives off.  The most common element used in  atomic clocks is Cesium 133, whose vibrations are remarkably stable over time.  This allows us to keep incredibly accurate time.  As of January, 2002, NIST's latest cesium standard clock was capable of keeping time to about 30 billionths of a second per year.   Now the cost of a typical cesium atomic clock could keep everyone from having one sitting on their mantle, so the NIST--the National Institute of Standards and Technology, located in Fort Collins, Colorado--worked out a way for all of us to achieve "atomic time."  Each day, the NIST sends out a radio broadcast telling any clock that will listen what time it is.   Inside one of these "radio controlled" clocks is a small antenna and receiver which synchronizes the clock's minutes, hours, day of the year and year, along with information about daylight savings time and leap years. All that you have to do is set the time zone you are in, and the clock will tell you the exact time.   The nice thing about radio controlled clocks is that you never have to set them again.  Just change the battery from time to time and they will keep you on track.

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Antiques & Collectibles

Scott Childs

2003-11-01 08:49:00

: I have a Howard Miller clock. How do you recommend that I clean and maintain my clock?

ANSWER: Just like having your automobile serviced every 5,000 miles, the modern mechanical clock needs regular maintenance to keep it working properly.  Howard Miller and all other major clock manufacturers (Sligh, Ridgeway, Bulova, & Hermle) recommend that mechanical movements be lubricated "serviced" every two years and be "cleaned" every 10-12 years.   At this point, we need to clarify the terms we are using.  In order to "clean" a clock, the clock movement is extracted from the case and totally  disassembled.  Each individual part is cleaned in a cleaning solution.  The clock is then rinsed twice, dried, and reassembled.  All the required points are lubricated and/or greased.  The clock is then returned to the case, and all the moving parts are adjusted.  The clock "service" is a bit different.  As before, the clock movement is removed from the case, but left together.  Most shops will go around each of the pivots (gear ends) with a piece of pegwood to remove as much gunk as possible.  The clock movement is then re-lubricated and put back in the case, making all the necessary adjustments. If you choose to maintain your clock yourself, keep these tips in mind.  First, use a lightweight oil or buy oil made specifically for clocks.  Don't over-lubricate your clock and never use WD-40.  Doing so may cause more harm than good.  Remember, a clock has pivots on both the front and back sides.  Just lubricating it from the back side is only getting half the job done. Following these guidelines and establishing a regular maintenance schedule for your clock will keep it ticking for years to come.

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Antiques & Collectibles

Scott Childs

2003-10-01 11:35:00

: I have an old brass horseshoe clock with 8 day movement. The inscription reads ‘John & Susan, 1853-1903’ It measures 5 inches tall.  What can you tell me about it?

ANSWER: This is in all likelihood a Boston Clock Company brass horseshoe clock from approximately 1903.  It features an eight day, time only movement with a hairspring lever escapement.  Boston Clock Co. was the predecessor of the Chelsea Clock Company, whose clocks have long been considered of superior quality.  The Chelsea Company came into being in 1907 and still produce clocks today.  They specialize in ships bell clocks and are very expensive. I would estimate this clock, if in mint condition and running, to be worth $700 to $800.

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Antiques & Collectibles

Jack Perry

2003-10-01 09:00:00

: Is there special insurance for classic cars, custom cars and street rods? Is there a mile restriction for insuring this type of car?

ANSWER: Yes, there are companies out there that specialize in automobile insurance for classic and collectible vehicles.  Probably the most noted company among classic car collectors is Hagerty Collector Car and Boat Insurance out of Traverse City, Michigan.  Companies such as Hagerty require the insured person to also have insurance in effect on a regular-use vehicle that is used for daily driving.  The vehicles that they insure must be used on a limited basis consistent with the operation of something valuable, such as club functions, exhibitions, organized meets, tours, and limited pleasure driving.  Other national auto insurance companies also offer some insurance for classic vehicle.  Restrictions for their insured vehicle may be somewhat stricter including mileage limitations for the vehicle being insured.  Most of the "every-day" automobile insurers require a current vehicle appraisal from a reputable company or documentation supporting the amount of money spent restoring a vehicle before a policy can be issued.  Some companies will allow you to set a certain replacement value for a vehicle and pay the premiums accordingly to that set value.  Check with your local agent as each companies’ restrictions and rates will vary.

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Antiques & Collectibles

Scott Childs

2003-08-01 11:28:00

: Some time back I bought this silver-toned Elgin pocket watch.  The person I bought it from says it’s at least 60 years old, probably older (early 1900’s).  I have wound it and it still runs.  The glass and frame are detached and need to be put back on. The back is quite nice, with room for your initials in a blank rectangular area toward the bottom.  What do you think it’s worth?  

ANSWER: Although watches aren't my area of expertise, I can provide some information.  This is a 12 size Elgin watch.  This size of watch was very popular in the 1920's and 30's.  Elgin was a prolific manufacturer of watches from 1867 to 1956.  Without seeing the movement of the watch, I can't tell the exact age nor the number of jewels.  The serial number of the watch allows one to trace the watch back to the year of manufacture. The number of jewels, typically, impact the value of the watch.  Most American watches were made in 7, 15, 17, 19, 21, and 23 jewel varieties.  The bezel (circular device that holds the crystal) and crystal appear to be missing and perhaps you referred to it as the "glass and frame."  One could expect to pay between $50 to $65 for a 7, 15 or 17 jewel, 12 size Elgin in running condition.

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Antiques & Collectibles

Jack Perry

2003-08-01 11:22:00

:  What is a 'flathead' engine as compared to a traditional engine? Are 'flathead' engines still being made today?  When were they most popular? 

ANSWER: In the 1920's Cadillac was the first automobile manufacturer to build the legendary flathead V8 motor.  Cadillac continued to use this motor for their line of cars until 1948 but it was Henry Ford that gave this motor its notoriety.  The flathead motor was made famous when it was introduced by Henry Ford and Ford Motor Company in 1932.  The Ford flathead V8 motor initially delivered 65 hp as compared to the 40 to 50 hp of the 4 cylinder motor it replaced.  This motor continued to be the popular workhorse for nearly 22 years until Ford introduced its overhead valve V8 engines in 1954.   These are the motors that are more commonly known today.  The demise of the flathead actually began in 1949 when GM introduced their overhead valve V8 in the Cadillac and Oldsmobile line of cars.  The distinct difference between the two motors is the flathead motor has its valve train in the block where an overhead valve engine has its valve train in the head itself.  The overhead valve engine proved to be much more reliable and efficient and certainly more powerful.  The 1932 flathead that Ford introduced put out a mere 65 horsepower where as the 1970 Chevrolet with the 454 cubic inch overhead valve V8 put out a whopping 450 horse power.  To my knowledge there are no manufacturers producing any new flathead motors today.  Several companies are rebuilding the old flathead motors for the street rodders who want to build a nostalgic looking street rod.

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Antiques & Collectibles

Scott Childs

2003-07-01 10:56:00

: What is this old clock and is it worth anything?  

ANSWER: The clock you're referring to is a Victorian Parlor Clock commonly called, a mirror-side.   This style of clock was made by at least four of the major manufacturers of the time (Ansonia, Kroeber, Gilbert and New Haven).  This one was made by the New Haven Clock Company of New Haven Connecticut about 1911 and is called the "Occidental."  New Haven made an earlier version which had slightly larger finials and an etched glass (1895).  The market price of these clocks is between $600 and $750.  The clock in question has some plusses and minuses.  First the positives.  The clock has an original finish and an original colored glass and the movement and pendulum are correct for this clock.  The negatives are:  It has a replaced dial, even though it was obviously done a long time ago.  Secondly, I would guess that the cupids which are in front of each mirror are later replacements and the small turned wooden bases the cupids are supposed to sit on are missing.  All in all the clock is a nice example of the mirror-side and worthy of keeping in the collection.  I'd value the clock toward the lower end of the spectrum - $600 or so.   Remember, the trend has changed dramatically in the last 20-30 years.  Collectors are willing to pay a premium for originality, including finish, case parts, glass, dial, movement and pendulum.

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Antiques & Collectibles

Jerry McAlpin

2003-06-01 10:13:00

: I have enjoyed reading your answers in The Q & A Times.  I am wondering about an article I have and its value.  It is a dainty mid 19th century French painted corner cupboard.  This cupboard is painted a pale green, with gilt trim, and daintily painted roses. There are corresponding roses on the doors of the cabinet below, and there are locks on both doors with the original key.  This cupboard measures 77" tall, with a 26" front, 3" corners, and 16" back to a 2" corner. The inside dimensions are 13" deep. There is a crown molding around the top, and arched doors, with original glass and 15 lights. The two recessed panel doors on the bottom are 23" tall, with the molded step-down base measuring 7". There is one shelf that has been added in the bottom which is removable but sits on fixed molding, and there are three curved shelves which are adjustable, and which have been added. This is a small corner cupboard which would be used for one or two special pieces of china or figurines per shelf. The wide plank boards seen on the back of the cupboard are unfinished.  What do you think it's worth?

ANSWER: Corner cupboards are very practical pieces of furniture, introduced around 1750. They were made in several styles and from different woods. The "kitchen" type usually from oak or pine, and the more elaborate living or drawing room cupboards from mahogany. Oddly enough, the most sought-after are early 1800's country "federal" style cupboards from Pennsylvania, which will sell for upwards of $5,000.  It's a little hard to tell from the photo, but your cupboard is probably mid to late 19th century French. Some of these will list for up to $2,000, but the size and additions to yours hurt it's value somewhat. I think a realistic value for your corner cupboard would be in the $500-$750 range.

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Antiques & Collectibles

Jerry McAlpin

2003-04-01 11:45:00

QUESTION:  I have a stunning 10KYG dual bust cameo. It's in perfect condition as you can see.  What do you think it's worth?

ANSWER:  Cameos-really miniature pieces of sculpture-have been around since the 4th Century B.C. What distinguishes a cameo is that they are carved in a manner that the subject projects above the background in relief, rather than incised into the surface, or "intaglio." All manner of materials were used for cameos, and dating them can be very tricky. The material and design, anatomy, hairstyles, clothing of the subject can provide some clues, but these are not always reliable. Value is usually determined by the age, craftsmanship, materials, and subject. Some are signed by the artist, some have polished backs and many do not. A lot of things to consider!This is a tough call from a photo-but your double shell cameo appears to be a 19th century neo-classical subject, maybe Paris and Helen from Homer's Illiad (just a guess!) and would be $400 to $500 locally, but could very easily bring twice that or more at one of the major auction houses.

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Antiques & Collectibles

Jerry McAlpin

2003-03-01 13:26:00

: In 1909, GE Sidewinder Electric Fan GE introduced their first oscillating fan. It is a very unusual design with its exposed crank arm and socket ball that it slides on. When I got this fan it was so gummed up and dirty that it could just barely turn. I spent most of a night working on it and cleaning it and had it running fine, but as I was reassembling it I broke the fine wire off the armature and now it is just a looker till I find time to go back inside and figure out how to solder that line. What's it worth?

ANSWER:  There were two different models of the 1909 General Electric Sidewinder Oscillator, the type 398950 12" blade and the larger type 427220 16" blade models, along with the 4 and 6 blade variations. Both have brass blades and very heavy cast iron frames. The term "Sidewinder" comes from the unusual side-mounted oscillating device which was relatively short-lived, replaced around 1911 by the Kidney oscillator and later by the more familiar Star oscillators. Being the first GE oscillator and limited production makes this a valuable and highly sought after fan by collectors. Price guides list "mint" examples of these fans anywhere from $1500.00 to $2500.00 plus, but few are ever found in this condition. I would estimate the value of your GE Sidewinder fan in "as is" condition to be $500-$600.00, but careful repairs and workable condition would bring that up to about $850.00.

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Antiques & Collectibles

Jerry McAlpin

2003-02-01 14:16:00

:  I have an elegant, walnut chevet with a serpentine, Rouge Royal marble top. The top corners are accented with shell motifs. A nicely carved drawer sits above a door which is ornate with floral and acanthus motifs. I have attached a picture.  Can you tell me what it's worth?

ANSWER:  Your Walnut Chevet is a wonderful piece of French furniture that was probably made between 1890 and 1910. The marble top, single drawer and scrolled apron between the front legs are typical of these bedside tables or "nightstands".  The cabriole legs with acanthus leaves and escargo feet suggest a Louis XV style, and the ornamental carved top piece is rarely found on these. I would estimate this Chevet to be worth around $600-$800 dollars on today's market. 

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Antiques & Collectibles

Jerry McAlpin

2003-01-01 12:08:00

:  How does the condition of a piece affect its value?

ANSWER:  Condition of antiques and collectibles is the primary consideration when it comes to value. Just like anything else you might purchase (a car, for example)... condition sets the value. Some items that are considered ‘housewares’... or in other words... items that were used frequently, are judged less severely, as are other items that were easily damaged.  Old stoneware utilitarian items are more likely to be accepted by collectors with some minor damage, where newer "collectible" items are expected to be "near mint" or MIB ("mint in box"). Some normal age wear is acceptable and even expected on most items, but real damage will affect the price realized by 40-80%, depending on the age and the item. Prices listed in books are usually for perfect pieces, and in my experience even perfect pieces do not bring the prices listed in these books. These prices are usually the highest ever paid at auction, on the east or west coast. For example, an old G.I. Joe doll, (circa 1964) in the box, in almost perfect condition can bring anywhere from $200 to $2000, depending on which one it is. A doll that has been played with rough (the way I played with them) is worth virtually nothing. Collectors and dealers usually try and look for items between the "good" and "mint" range, which is generally referred to as "excellent". That condition is good enough to appreciate in value, and also good enough to liquidate quickly if needed. Just like they tell you on the ‘Antiques Road Show’, “... always spend a little more and get the best.” It really WILL pay off in the long run. Nobody wants an old beat-up classic car, and nobody wants an old  beat-up Popeye toy.

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Antiques & Collectibles

Phil Martinez

2002-12-01 10:08:00

: I read an article recently on the availability of old Roman coins (between 100 and 300 AD). How valuable are these coins? Are there quite a few in existence? How were they made? We have coins that were made 50 years ago that are worn smooth. These are hundreds of years older and seem to look great.

ANSWER: Coins were invented about 600 BC (2600 years ago) and quickly caught on. The Greeks and Romans minted huge numbers of coins hundreds of years before the time of Christ and several million are still around in nice shape. Ancients were minted in silver, copper or gold with lower denominations of copper and silver more common ranging from the size of a dime to a half dollar but much thicker. Each coin was made by hand using a heavy hammer to strike a coin blank between 2 dyes, also engraved by hand, much like squeezing clay between your fingers. Often the variations in the pressure of the strike caused the blank to elongate or split at the edges. (Our modern coins are struck inside a round collar keeping them uniformly round) Small coins were valuable in those days as silver and gold were rare and valuable as coins were valued for the metal they contained. A small silver "denarius" could be worth a full days pay for a laborer (most worker during this time were laborers). Comparable in today's world about $40.00. Unlike modern coins, there were a huge number of designs. The roman coins usually had a head profile on the obverse with varying subjects on the reverse such as a goddess, ship, lions, temples, soldiers, etc.. The obverse usually had a legend with the name of the emperor and his title. Reverse legends usually related to the reverse design. Greek coins often have the head of a god or goddess on one side but frequently had animals such as lions, horses, birds, snakes, eagles, etc. on the reverse. Roman legends are Latin with many of the words similar to english. Learning common names, titles, and words can be done with a little homework. There are not that many Greek legends, but they are generally short, naming a city in Greek. There are lots of ancients around. In other countries around the world (England, France, Greece, Turkey and the Middle East) archeological artifacts are commonly dug up, sometimes with hoards of thousands of ancient coins together. The museums get first pick from the finds for which they pay market value but most types are duplicates which go on the market. You can find many interesting low grade ancient coins available for as little as $5.00. Common ones in attractive condition can be found for $10 to $20. Of course, just as with any type of collecting, the sky's the limit for nice condition rare or scarce varieties. The coins of some Roman emperors are in substantial oversupply and these type of coins are available every day on E-bay. Low grade Roman coins can be bought by the thousands but there are many other common middle and low grade coins affordably available. These types of coins offer an inexpensive way to start collecting. Greek coins are not as common as late Roman coins but attractive silver types can be found reasonably priced. Most collect Roman coins and start with the emperors. There are over 30 different emperors and Caesar's with excellent portraits out there for less than $50.00 each, some much less. From Augustus (27 BC - 14 AD) to the "fall" of Rome in the 5th century AD, there were about 70 emperors acknowledged, all with portrait coins and another 100 or more with sons, wives, and mothers. Most collectors like the history. Roman coins are government documents combining history with portraits. There are as many ways to collect as there are ancients. Before starting any type of collection, you'll need to do your homework to study up on the subject and decide where or what type of ancients you want to start with. Libraries will have beginner books on ancient coins with larger libraries and universities having much more available. The American Numismatic Society has a fine list of link to education web sites on ancient coins at www.amnumsoc.org/eresources /numsites.html The "Celator", (the Celator is the ancient term for a person who engraved the dyes with which coins were struck) is a monthly publication devoted exclusively to ancient numismatics. It has feature articles, lots of photos, question & answer segments and of course lots of ads and dealers. Twelve issues cost less than $30.00. Contact them at P.O. Box 839, Lancaster PA 17608-0839 phone (717) 291-9870. One last word or caution, there are a lot of fakes and reproductions made, especially in the Middle East and Bulgaria. Many coins sold to innocent tourists abroad are often fake. Another reason to do your homework

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Antiques & Collectibles

Jerry McAlpin

2002-11-01 14:20:00

Jerry McAlpin QUESITON: How does one determine the true value of an antique?

ANSWER:  Ask this question 10 times and you'll get 10 different answers. Most antique dealers or collectors can help you out on common items, but for rare or unusual items it gets tough. The easiest way to find out if you really have something of value is a reference book. These can be available at the library or purchased at any large bookstore. The only problem here is you have to know where to look. If you don't have any idea what it is you really have, this won't help much. There are professional appraisers for antiques, but they charge a fee depending on how many items you have and how much research you want done. In my experience they usually are on the high side as far as value-keep in mind they are considering timely replacement value, for the courts or insurance purposes. Remember, if you're selling to a dealer, they are buying to resell at a profit, so don't expect to get retail prices. If you are fortunate enough to have something that one of the big auction houses such as Sotheby's or Christie's is selling, you can obtain a "prices realized" list for any particular auction. These auction houses will sometimes give an appraisal of an item if you intend to sell it through them. You will have to provide pictures and a detailed description of the item, and they usually won't handle anything they feel is worth less than 2-3 thousand dollars. Local auctions tend to be driven more by the crowd, location, advertising and "auction fever," a phenomenon that occurs when people turn it into a contest rather than an auction. I've been to many auctions and seen things sell for two or three times what they are priced at my store! In my opinion the best indicator of the value of an antique is on one of the Internet auction sites. These are not driven by geography or a mob, and usually whatever you might have is either there or has been on recently. Once and awhile something slips through, but in general it's a pretty good indicator of the retail value of your item.

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Antiques & Collectibles

Dena Newport

2002-09-01 11:12:00

:  What is (or are)  Numismatics?  How do I determine a coin’s grade?   Who does coin grading?   How long does coin grading take? 

Dena Newport Question:  What is (or are)  Numismatics?  How do I determine a coin’s grade?   Who does coin grading?   How long does coin grading take?  Answer:   Numismatics in the study or collection of monetary objects that are released from a Governmental agency for economic purpose.  A coin’s grade is determined by the wear on the obverse and reverse of a coin, that has been released for circulation. A letter and numerical system has been developed to help take out the opinionated sides of coin grading. " The official A.N.A. Grading Standards for United States Coins," offers the best grading guide with photos for collectors and dealers. The coins’  grading system starts from AG-3 (Almost Good), G-4,(Good) F-20, (Fine) VF-20 (Very Fine) To MS-60-70 (Mint State) and proof issues, run generally from proof 65-70. Generally a coin in AG or Good show heavy wear and there are not many details left on the coin, to where as a coin with mint luster or in its original and new condition can obtain the mint state grade.  Coins in higher grades and have a lower mintage are generally worth more money.  You can begin to learn to grade coins yourself by purchasing the A.N.A. book.  It can be found at any local dealer in your area for about $15.00.   You can begin grading your coins within a few minutes of reading.   There are also third party grading services, such as PCGS, NGC, ANACS, PCI, NTC and several others who will authenticate your coins for a fee and put them into sealed plastic holders that will state the grade, mintage, and any attributions the coin may have. Grading services offer several different options from 1-day service to 21 day service upon the receipt of your coins.  Their fees vary depending on how fast you want your coins back.  Your local coin dealer should be able to help you with this process, and help you to choose a grading company that will best fit your needs. 

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Antiques & Collectibles

Jerry McAlpin

2002-09-01 10:32:00

:  What does 585, 750, etc. mean as marking on jewelry?

Jerry McAlpin Question:  What does 585, 750, etc. mean as marking on jewelry?Answer:  Fine jewelry and high-quality "artisan" hand crafted jewelry usually contains precious metals, either gold, silver or platinum. The numbers you are referring to indicate the content of the precious metal in the jewelry. Known as "Hallmarks", or "Fineness Marks", these three digit numbers are the recognized standard of fineness for each particular metal. They represent parts per thousand, and guarantee that the metal in the jewelry contains that amount of pure gold or silver. There are generally three levels of fineness for gold: 375, 585, 750 -and for silver: 800, 830, and 925 (Sterling). Platinum is usually graded at 950.The presence or absence of these marks can be a fairly reliable way to know what you're jewelry or family silverware really is. However, over the years many countries have used a variety of Hallmarks to identify gold and silver content. Great Britain, for example, has used a lion Sterling Silver Hallmark for over 450 years! The 1975 Convention on the Control and Marking of Articles of Precious Metals was the first step taken towards a common International Hallmark to guarantee fineness of gold, silver and platinum.