 | Bob Crager of Lewis Street Glass is a 26 year veteran in the glass business. Lewis Street Glass is a leading Wichita Glass company, serving the entire Wichita/Sedgwick County area since 1919. They do anything and everything having to do with glass, both residential and commercial. They also do Auto glass. They are located at 743 South Market, facing Kellogg on the South, and you can reach them by phone at (316) 263-8259. You can email Bob Crager at bcrager@lewisstreetglass.com |
Glass
2004-06-01 10:55:00
Cutting glass... continued
Question: How does one go about cutting glass?
ANSWER: Last month we talked about the structure of glass and what happens when you try and break glass without scoring it. This month we will talk about ‘scoring’.In the process of glass cutting, scoring the glass is disrupting the surface integrity along a thin line. If you plan on making a living at cutting glass, you'll probably want to get a self-oiling cutter with a carbide wheel, which will set you back about $30. These have the advantage of lasting a long time. Many have replacement wheels available, so when the wheel eventually does wear out, that's the only part you have to replace. You can also get a carbide cutter without the self-oiling feature for around $20. Another option is the steel wheel cutter. This is much less expensive, and works every bit as well as the carbide wheel. Steel wheels do get dull a lot quicker than carbide, but if you store them with the wheel in oil, they too can last a good long time. You can get a steel wheel cutter in just about any hardware or building supply store for around $3 or $4. When you use wheel cutters, it's important to clean the glass first. Not only will dirt and grime dull the cutter, but it can also cause very small interruptions in your score, which can cause chips or voids in an otherwise clean cut. If one of these spots is at a critical point on a curve, it can cause the glass to break unpredictably. When using a wheel cutter, it should be vertical. (Like car wheels on the road, not a motorcycle going around a bend.) A moderate downward pressure as you roll the cutter along the glass is required, and you should hear a noise that falls somewhere on the mild side of a screech. Use too little pressure, and you won't score the glass, (and you won't hear the noise) use too much, and you throw tiny chips off the score, which can then get under the wheel, resulting in accelerated dulling of your cutter. After you do it a couple of times, you'll know the sound. It's best to practice on single strength window glass at first - it's the easiest to cut, and it's relatively inexpensive.Note that some types of art glass, particularly the opalescent varieties, may not make any noise as you score them. Don't worry about the sound on these types of glass. If you use the same amount of pressure as on successfully cut clear or cathedrals, it will be scored and will run just fine. Some glasses are heavily textured. In those cases, be sure to score the smoother of the two sides. The next option is not one ever used by people who regularly cut glass, but if you only want to cut a few straight lines, and already have a carbide scribe around, (you know, the thing they sell for scratching serial numbers on your belongings) that will work, too. And, in an emergency, you can always use your wedding ring. Next time... running the score.
