This site is best viewed using Mozilla Firefox browser.

Home Improvement

2003-07-01 13:54:00

Re-sheetrocking

: We have an older home. The sheetrock in our upstairs bedrooms has water damage around the windows. We have tried re-painting and wall papering, but it doesn't look right. We no longer have problems with the windows as they have been replaced. While we are not excited about the prospect of re-sheetrocking all three bedrooms, it appears to be only answer. Are there any other options? If we have to re-sheetrock, is this a project we can handle ourselves or would we be better off contracting someone else to do it? What would we need in equipment and what would be the process?  

Mike Goebel    Question: We have an older home. The sheetrock in our upstairs bedrooms has water damage around the windows. We have tried re-painting and wall papering, but it doesn't look right. We no longer have problems with the windows as they have been replaced. While we are not excited about the prospect of re-sheetrocking all three bedrooms, it appears to be only answer. Are there any other options? If we have to re-sheetrock, is this a project we can handle ourselves or would we be better off contracting someone else to do it? What would we need in equipment and what would be the process?   Answer:  My first concern would be to eliminate the cause of the problem and perhaps you have done that by replacing the windows.  The problem could have been leakage and/or condensation.If the drywall has mold on it, the mold must be killed with a solution of Chlorine bleach and water.  An ounce or two of bleach per gallon of water should kill the mold.  Be careful not to saturate the paper surface of the drywall with too much water.   If the only remaining problem is water stain, perhaps you need to coat the entire area with a stain proof primer such as Killz or Zinsser which will prevent the stain from bleeding through.   If the drywall is physically damaged, you might try a new product from Zinsser called Gardz which will restore the integrity of the drywall itself.If the drywall has deteriorated too much for the above products to correct, the only way I know to fix the problem would be to remove and replace the drywall back to at least one stud away from the window.  When you have the wall open it would give you an opportunity to look for poor insulation, wood rot or even termite damage.   Once you are convinced that the cause of the problem has been eliminated, replacing the drywall should make everything as good as new.   Replacing the drywall is not too difficult but mudding and taping the joints will require attention to detail and a lot of patience.  The first step is to cut the drywall to size and nail or screw to the studs.  Next the paper tape is completely covered both sides with joint compound and placed over the joints in the drywall and smoothed with a drywall knife.  After the joint compound dries it is sanded and coated with another layer of drywall compound making the joint wider each time. Three or more coats may be required because you will be butting new drywall against old drywall which may not have a tapered edge.  A professional would make this process look easy but if you are willing to stay at it long enough you can achieve good results.  You may want to get a bid from a handyman and then decide how much effort you are willing to put into the project.   The only tools needed would be a hammer, a variable speed drill with phillips head bits, some 1 5/8" drywall screws or nails, a utility knife, a 6" drywall knife, a 12" drywall knife, and fine or medium sand paper.  Some improvements on sandpaper would be sanding screen or sanding sponges.