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Sewing & Alterations

Janeen Miller

2013-03-01 10:18:34

Q-I did not realize that there are so many different kinds of needles. Can you explain some of the differences to me?

A-Thanks for the question and I am glad to help. There are numerous types of needles designed for different sewing applications. Needle – a very basic and necessary instrument of sewing. A very simple item, but not totally understood. Here are some of the comments/questions we hear about machine needles. Universal needles have a slightly rounded point and come in a variety of sizes. They are designed for general sewing in a variety of fabric types and weights such as normal cotton garments and in piecing quilt tops. The Topstitch needle has a very large eye that makes it the ideal choice for topstitching with heavier threads. Both the eye and groove are larger, for techniques such as machine tatting or crazy quilt embellishment with silk buttonhole twist, 12 and 30 weight cotton and other decorative threads. Embroidery needles have a special scarf, a slightly rounded point, and a slightly larger eye to avoid damage to thread and materials. Use this needle with metallic and other specialty threads for embroidery and decorative sewing. Quilting needles have a special tapered point and light ballpoint to sew through layers and batting with ease. Stretch needles have a special scarf to eliminate skipped stitches when there is flex in the fabric. Use for knits, swimwear, fleece, synthetic suedes and leathers. Microtex needles or Sharps have a sharp point like Denim needles but are available in smaller sizes. Use for microfiber to topstitch lightweight tightly woven fabrics. Wing needles have side wings on the side of the needle to poke holes in the fabric when sewing entredeux (heirloom sewing) and other hemstitches on natural fiber fabrics. Twin needles have two separate needles mounted on one shank. Use these for decorative sewing, top stitching and twin needle tucks. They are available in different sizes and distances between the two needles . Ballpoint needles have a more rounded point that will not run or snag specialty knits because they enter the fabric between the knit fibers. Specialty fabric needles such as Denim or Leather have special features to make sewing on these fabrics a pleasure rather than a challenge Q: I’ll change a needle when I break it – right? A: Yes and no. If you broke it, you have no choice. If that is the only time you change a needle – wrong! For best results, change a needle after eight hours of use. If you detect a wop-wop-wop as the needle enters the fabric, you have waited too long. Q: Titanium needles are much stronger and will last forever – right? A: Wrong! These needles have a thin layer of titanium coating that will help them stay sharp longer, but still should be changed after approximately ten hours of use.

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Sewing & Alterations

Ruth Wegner

2012-06-01 10:36:02

Q: I have a closet full of clothes I bought on sale but do not fit quite right. I am considering taking it on as a project to alter them all myself, starting with the pants. How hard is it to alter pants?

A: That depends on lots of different factors, like the type of material and the kinds of alterations being done, such as whether or not they need just a hem or taken in or let out. While you do not have to be an expert to get decent results in hemming pants, you should have some sewing experience. If not, I would find a step by step guide online or in a book to help you through the process. Also, I would have someone help you with determining the correct length. You’d have to wear the pants and then bend over to pin them, making the pants rise up and the hemline higher than you expected. For more complex alterations, I would go to a professional. While the process is not necessarily difficult, there are many things you need to know about various elements of the garment to get an expert fit. Things like changing the waistband or the taper of the leg can get tricky for those new to sewing. Unless you are expert at alterations, there are some changes too difficult for most people to accomplish. If the garment is costly or you do not want to risk damaging it take it to an expert if you have these fitting problems: • There is not enough fabric to let the pants out • The pants have a lining • The material is delicate or vintage • The rise is too high or too low A few great fitting pieces can make an entire wardrobe come to life. Good luck, and remember to call in the professional if you run into trouble.

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Sewing & Alterations

Ruth Wegner

2012-04-20 08:37:08

Q: My fiancé and I are planning a wedding on a tight budget and buying a lot of things used. I found an awesome dress for myself, and even tuxedos for my fiancé and his groomsmen at some insane prices. The problem is that none of them fit exactly, and I would like to add some additional touches. Do you have any ideas?

A: Congratulations on your future marriage! You are among many people finding value in the latest trend in wedding fashions— repurposing used or vintage dresses and tuxes and giving them a fresh new look. For some, it is an issue of being earth friendly, or a matter of economy, and for still others it is a preference for vintage design. No matter what brought you to your wedding finds, there are tons of things you can do to make it all your own. For sizing, there are many things to do to get a perfect fit. It may be possible to take up the sides of the dress if it is too small, or add to the dress by lacing up the back. It can be changed by adding or removing items like beading and lace, or changing the length or style of the hem. For the men, the tuxedos can be tailored to fit properly fairly simply. For new touches to them, consider adding gabardine, or the lapel flap on the chest of the jacket, or fashion threading. If removing material from the dress, the pieces can be used to make a cummerbund, vest, or tie for a coordinated look. The options are nearly endless and only limited by personal tastes. You might want to talk to a tailor or seamstress to gain even more ideas and find out what options would work with your items. There may be more choices than you realize to make your day even more special.

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Sewing & Alterations

Ruth Wegner

2012-03-23 11:01:48

Q: I am really into vintage fashion and recently bought a ton of beautiful outfits in an estate sale. They are a little big in places, but overall fit okay. I want them to fit as they were intended to fit though. Is it possible to alter vintage clothes without causing damage to the material? What else can I do with vintage finds that may not be wearable in their current condition?

A: Vintage clothing seems to be all the rage lately, do in part to the ability to find spectacular pieces online on sites like EBay and Etsy. In fact, many people make a business just out of buying and selling vintage clothing, so an estate sale find like yours is something very special. With this increased popularity, there is also an increased interest in the very things about which you are asking. I will try to answer you as completely as possible and give you a few ideas to make those vintage pieces wearable. First, if you would like to keep the pieces in the best condition as close to the original design as possible, it is possible to take in seams and make the piece more fitted. It is also possible to adjust pieces that are too small by taking the waistband off, add to the waist, and resew it back on. Also, I would open some of the darts and the bodice area, to enlarge the waist. If the pieces have damage, it is still possible to work with what you have to create something new and retain that vintage flair. For example, it is possible to remake the dress in a different style or add ruffles to the bottom of a jacket. You may be able to have damaged parts removed from a full skirt and still have plenty of material left for a less full skirt. If the outfit has a tear in it, it is possible to sew a new piece of material in it to make a new look, and the same to the blouse or jacket. Another option is taking it apart and salvaging the material to create an entirely new, one-of-a-kind outfit with a cool vintage feel. Finally, when only the smallest amount of material is usable, consider making accessories like scarves, belts, and purses. You could even save scraps to accessorize your home with dashes of vintage chic in the form of pillows. Have fun with your vintage finds!

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Sewing & Alterations

Ruth Wegner

2012-02-28 12:30:16

Q: My daughter and her friends are planning a prom dress swap. How difficult is it to alter the size of a dress? Is it possible to make a dress larger if needed? Is it possible to change it and make it a little different than the original? We would appreciate any ideas or guidance. Thanks in advance!

A: Great idea! A dress swap is a great way to save money, reuse resources, and a perfect opportunity to let your creativity shine for a special event. In fact, dress swaps have increased significantly in popularity for these very reasons. To begin your swap and assure success, I recommend you include other area high schools in your swap. This will help make sure that the same dress is not worn to the same school event as worn by the former owner. In many cases this is not much of a problem especially after adding your own stylistic changes but a nice consideration just in case. Send out flyers to the local schools, use social media, and enlist the help of local merchants to get the word out. Next, consider including all the dresses you can find, including vintage ones. Vintage is all the rage right now, and vintage styles are very desirable. Even women without teens of their own may like to help out by donating some classic looks. Even if the dress is damaged in some small way, it still may be well worth finding out what it would take to fix the problem. There are many options in altering the sizes and styles of the dresses. The sides can be taken in to make it smaller, or the zipper removed, loops and laces can be added to enlarge or subtracted to reduce the bust and waist. If the dress is not quite the right size, do not rule it out as it may be a very simple change that gives her the dress of her dreams. Another way to give a dress new life is by adding elements. If it is strapless, it is possible to add straps. It is also possible to change the look by adding or removing layers to make the skirt more or less full. Just changing elements like adding sheer sleeves or sequins (shiny beads) gives the dress a beautiful new look. The hemline is another area where small changes can make a huge difference. Dresses can also be combined for a new one-of-a-kind look. The options are endless, and that it should be for such a special night.