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Motorcycles

Kevin Helt

2008-11-01 11:18:00

Question: With the weather cooling off what are some tips to use to make motorcycle riding more comfortable, and allow me to ride further into the winter months?

Answer: I’ll try to explain what cold weather motorcycle gear options are available and what’s best to use. Not only do you have to deal with the colder weather you also need to worry about snow and ice on the roads. For safety matters, I do not recommend riding on the snow or ice. But if you like riding in the cooler temperatures there are a few things to think about. First of all while riding you’re not moving around too much, so your body can get colder faster. Dressing in cold weather motorcycle gear will help you stay warmer and keep your blood flowing. One of the first rules of thumb is to keep your head warm, you can loose up to 70% of your body heat through your head. Keeping your head warm will help keep the rest of you warmer, so this is one of the most important areas to focus on. To prevent from getting cold, you need clothing that is made for the colder weather. You need fabrics that are made from windproof materials that are light enough so that you can layer them to help insulate you from the cold and wind. Let’s start from the inside and work out. I’m talking about “long johns”. Yes, old fashion “long johns” they’ll keep you warm and provide the extra layering. Just make sure you keep the bulk down so you’ll still be able to move. They do make long underwear (windproof underwear) for us motorcycle riders. Make sure that they cover well, some you may find will have stirrups to go around the arch of your foot to keep them from rising up your legs. Other cold weather motorcycle gear to consider is gloves. We’ve all been there, fingers freezing, not being able to hang on. Look for wind proof and insulated gloves that have a gauntlet to cover the sleeves of your jacket. Leather will often protect you if you go down but its not very waterproof and if you get caught in the rain you will get very heavy and water logged. Textiles with Gore-Tex insulation can provide both warmth as well as being waterproof. Some of the newer gloves even have Kevlar in them to provide even more protection.

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Motorcycles

Kevin Helt

2008-10-01 15:56:00

Question: I was just thinking of taking a good one day motorcycle trip before it gets too cold. Do you have any suggestions?

Answer: Here in Kansas you can expect to see beautiful landscapes with wheat fields, wild flowers, and a lot of beautiful scenery everywhere. There is a lot of beauty out there for us to enjoy so get out and ride and take it all in. If you like beautiful landscapes you will want to stop dozens of times along this route and take in all the splendor - There are more scenic things than you could see in a month so take your time and see what there is along the way - This is a full days ride, but you and your friends could make this a weekender providing you took the amenities to make it work (tents, sleeping bags, food and water etc.). Motorcycle Road Quality All really good paved roads with straight stretches, many hills and lots of curves. Motorcycle Roadside Amenities There are hundreds of places to stop and take in the beauty with several state parks & fishing lakes if you want to rest awhile or camp out or have a picnic. Several restaurants and gas stations are along the way with an abundance of beauty for the eyes and soul. Starting in Goddard, go south on “199th St. W” to Clearwater proceed east on “W 103rd St. South” to the old US81 and go south to Route 53. Then take that east to Mulvane, now go southwest on Route 15 thru Udall to US77 and then go south to Route 8 where you will head east to CR 156, take a right (go south) around Winfield Lake to Route 4, and head east to Burden to eat and gas up. After a short break, you can now head North on Route 5 (you may have to head back west on Route 4 to get to Route 5) thru Atlanta to the Claycenter Junction. After passing through the junction head east on SE 210th St to Latham, South on SE Quivera Road to Cambridge and then East on US160 all the way to Moline, then take Route 99 North to Eureka. You’ll want to go west out of US54 West to Rosalia and then North to Cassoday and this could be another place to take a break, and gas up. After another short break process west on NE 150th street to Newton, NW on old 81 to Hesston then west on CR 556 to Buhler and Medora and then continue Southwest on Route 61 to Hutchinson. Go south on Route 96 to Mount Hope then go south on “N 247th St. W” thru Andale and back to Goddard. This is a beautiful full day ride so be sure to take plenty of water and some energy snacks. Another good one is in the heart of the Flint Hills and in the last remnants of the tall grass Prairie riders can expect green rolling hills as far as the horizon, occasional rocky stream beds, and historic rural America. Start your route in Cassoday, KS and take K-177 North. Travel through Matfield Green and Cottonwood Falls, turn left at Strong City towards Council Grove. At Council Grove turn right on Main Street and left at the first light, continue North on K-177 and into the route’s endpoint of Manhattan, KS. Easy access to I-70 lies nine miles south of Manhattan. A special note most of this route is registered as a Kansas Scenic Byway. If you would like to make more of a day out of it you should camp at Corps of Engineers campgrounds along Council Grove Lake, or stay at the Cottage House Bed and Breakfast in Council Grove, then use the day to hike at the National Park Services’ Tall Grass National Prairie, or enjoy the history of the Santa Fe Trail in Cottonwood Falls! Traveling during the Fall you can catch the beautiful autumn prairie as the trees, and other foliage turns colors for the most breath taking view around.

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Motorcycles

Kevin Helt

2008-09-01 15:06:00

I know you’ve talked about safety and motorcycles in the past, but the article written last month regarding accidents (both car & motorcycles) got me thinking that we can never have too much education on safety. Could you please reiterate some safety tips for all riders and regardless of their skill level?

Answer: Tips for the New and the Experienced Motorcyclist Be Conspicuous. The best choices for bikes, helmets and clothing are those eye-catching colors in the red-to-yellow range, and they should be bright, a dull yellow is not as effective as a bright yellow. Fluorescent colors are best. Black is by far the most popular color but almost the worst possible color for a motorcyclist. Olive drab, gray, camouflage patterns and other dull colors are worse, but black doesn’t jump out at all, and at night black is the worst color you could possibly think of to wear! Since most collisions occur with the vehicle that started out in front of you, the bright colors should be on the front of the vehicle or rider. A yellow touring fairing is hard to overlook. Reflective panels on a helmet or jacket are eye-catching at night. Use your headlight too. Running the high beam during the day makes you stand out. You can further employ your headlight’s eye-grabbing tendency by using a headlight modulator, which flashes the high beam. Wear a Helmet. No matter how careful you are things beyond your control can cause you to be in an accident. When that happens, the only thing that will make a major difference is whether you chose to wear a good helmet. The choice between no helmet (and a novelty beanie helmet, which is almost the same thing) and a basic DOT helmet can be the difference between “living” as a vegetable and having a normal life. A full-face helmet can further improve the odds in your favor. If you’re willing to spend some time shopping you can find one that is more comfortable than riding bareheaded. Though a jacket, boots, gloves and other clothing can reduce your injuries those are not likely to affect injuries of the life-changing sort, though a back protector could conceivably prevent a spinal injury. Gloves, which might prevent grinding off part of a finger, are the second most-important apparel items, but all good clothing is worth its cost because it makes riding more comfortable. Practice, Practice, Practice. Practice your skills every time you drive. Brake hard every time you come to a stop without a car behind you. When you have the road to yourself you could practice weaving quickly between lane lines or around tar spots. Cruiser riders should be comfortable dragging their bikes’ footrests in corners so they can use the available lean angle when they need it. These exercises will make you better able to ride your bike to its limits in a crisis. Ride Every Day. A new rider’s skills should be exercised frequently. If you only ride on weekends, your abilities will decline between rides, and you will have to rebuild them the next time you ride. Riding to work or riding every evening or morning will make you a better rider in fewer miles than just riding occasionally. See and Be Seen. Pick your lane position so you can see the road ahead and the places from which other cars might emerge. On straight roads, position yourself to see around the vehicle in front of you or, if there isn’t one, close to the center of the road so you have earlier warning of cars, kids and animals coming into the road. Be where you can see as far as possible around a curve. When approaching an intersection where cars might pull out, ride so you can see them and your presence isn’t hidden by moving or parked cars or roadside objects. In most cases, positioning yourself to detect threats ahead also means that they can see you. Be aware of things like glare when the sun is rising or setting behind you, blind spots of cars and the possibility that the window pillars can hide your narrow silhouette as you approach a car. Drive Defensively. Assume motorists do not see you and plan escape routes. And do not tailgate. Use the “Four Second Rule” to create space between you and vehicles ahead of you. Avoid Riding with Groups. The dynamics of group riding makes it much more risky than riding solo. You may also have to deal with riders who are less skilled than you are or have been drinking. Wait until you are completely comfortable on your bike before taking this challenge. Approach New Situations Slowly. In addition to riding in groups, carrying a passenger and traveling long distances on your motorcycle require some adjustment and learning. Find a safe place to practice carrying a passenger before you venture into traffic. Take some shorter trips on your bike before you head for the third state over, and allow time on your initial long rides for repacking, dealing with aches and making adjustments. Long trips are great for really getting to know your motorcycle so don’t avoid them. Enhance Your Skills with Education. The Motorcycle Safety Foundation is a national, not-for-profit organization sponsored by the U.S. manufacturers and distributors you can visit their website at www.msf-usa.org for available classes. Courses will help you expand your skills and give you a chance to have your riding habits critiqued before bad habits take hold. Racetrack schools are also a good way to expand your skills, even if you ride a cruiser. Keep Your Bike in Good Shape. Regularly performing a pre-ride walk-around check of your bike will teach you both how it works and what needs periodic adjustment as well as helping you catch something that has a problem before it becomes a safety threat. Tires are the most commonly ignored mechanical component, so make sure the pressures are per the manual. Loose chains and improperly adjusted clutch, brakes and control positions can also affect your motorcycle control. You might want to ask your dealer’s service department about these things if the manual leaves you uncertain of how to maintain them. Don’t Drink and Ride. More than a third of the people who die on motorcycles did some drinking shortly before. Even one beer is too much as that brew can use up millimeters and microseconds of reaction time. Be aware that you can become impaired by all sorts of other situations and substances from over-the-counter medications, to exhaust fumes in the Lincoln Tunnel to thin air going over Independence Pass or simple fatigue.

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Motorcycles

Kevin Helt

2008-07-01 15:11:00

As gas prices continue to climb, I find myself considering more and more a move to a motorcycle, gas mileage being the most important factor in considering the change. But at what price does gas have to get to before you will make a change in your vehicle?

Answer: Good question, below is a graph the will show the savings over several different time frames of your prospective motorcycle getting 60 miles per gallon. Price Per Gallon of Gas $4.00 Current Car or Truck Gas Mileage-25 Prosp. Motorcycle’s Gas Mileage-60 Your Avg. Miles Driven Per Mon. 1,000 Price of the Motorcycle for 6 Month Payback $560.00 Price of the Motorcycle for 1 Year Payback $1,120.00 Price of the Motorcycle for 1.5 Year Payback $1,680.00 Price of the Motorcycle for 2 Year Payback $2,240.00 Price of the Motorcycle for 2.5 Year Payback $2,800.00 Price of the Motorcycle for 3 Year Payback $3,360.00 Price of the Motorcycle for 3.5 Year Payback $3,920.00 Price of the Motorcycle for 4 Year Payback $4,480.00 This graph shows the end price that you can spend on your motorcycle in order to get paid back in full over a specific number of months. So given the defined values, if you spend $560 for your motorcycle, the gas savings that you will receive will pay for your motorcycle in just 6 months! If you spend $1,120 on your motorcycle, it will be paid back in gas savings in just 1 year, and so on. Are we so stubborn and selfish, that we simply will not cut those vacations out, or we won’t sell off that gas guzzling Ford Excursion in exchange for a better gas mileage motorcycle or cars and we won’t move closer to work to save on consumption? We expect the next guy to do these things, and therefore get the price down for us, instead of us taking action to limit our own consumption. At the end of the day, if we do not make changes in our habits, we will be forced to buy gas prices that are so high, you won’t be able to make the rest of your bills. So take action against the insanity, and get your gas prices down today.

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Motorcycles

Kevin Helt

2008-07-01 15:11:00

What should you do if you’re involved in a car or motorcycle accident?

Answer: This news line all of us heard in the Wichita Community prompted me to research, and put this article together regarding the do’s and don’ts of a traffic accident. “One person is dead another is in critical condition after a motorcycle accident early Saturday morning near the intersection on I-135 and K-254. Witnesses say shortly after 2am, a man in what appeared to be a dark colored Dodge Intrepid tried to exit onto northbound I-135, and then changed his mind. When he merged back onto K-254, he sideswiped a motorcycle, sending it into a guardrail. The driver of the Intrepid left the scene before police could arrive. As many of you have heard the Jeeps Club has lost one of it’s most active and valued members. Early Saturday morning July 12th 2008, while out on an early morning motorcycle ride Greg and Patty Gilman were the victims of a hit and run motorist, who ran their Harley into a guard rail on the I-135 & K-254 Interchange. Patty Gilman was pronounced dead at the scene. Greg was taken to St. Frances Medical center where he is listed in critical condition”. Being involved in an auto/motorcycle accident is a traumatic experience, and there are several things that you need to do when you are involved in an accident. First, stop your car. Do not leave the accident scene as hit-and-run policies are severe and can complicate your situation. DO NOT MOVE THE VEHICLES and call the police. When they arrive, the police will see the vehicles at the time of impact. This will assist them in their evaluation of what happened. Most states have rules as to when a police report must be made. This usually depends on the amount of damage. It is best just to call the police. Don’t let the other person talk you out of this and say “We’ll take care of this ourselves.” It is a crime to leave the scene of an accident. If the other person tries to leave be certain to get their license plate number; it’s imperative to have information when tracking down a hit and run driver. Next, check to see if anyone is injured. If someone is injured, call an ambulance for assistance. Do not attempt to move someone who is injured severely if you are not trained to do so. Moving an injured person can result in making their accident injuries worse. Use your judgment, though, as removing a person from a flaming car may worsen their injuries, but save their life. You should always move injured people if they are at risk of further injuries or death. After making sure everyone involved in the accident is okay take notes. It is your responsibility to file an accident report with the police and the most important thing you can do is to document the entire situation by taking careful notes as soon after your accident as you can. This step can help make the entire claim process easier on you -- and increase your chances of receiving all the compensation to which you are entitled. Having notes to remind you of all the details of what happened, and what you went through, is far easier and far more accurate than relying on your memory. Write things down as soon as you can: Begin with what you were doing and where you were going, the people you were with, the time, and the weather. Include every detail of what you saw, heard, and felt. Be sure to add anything you remember hearing anyone -- a person involved in the accident or a witness -- say about the accident. The police should speak to all people involved in the accident and give exchange information. Keep this information in front of you when you call your insurance companyBy but not rely on the police report alone for an investigation of your car accident, but also make and maintain a copy of your own detailed notes. If your case needs to go to court, these details will greatly assist you and your attorney as most cases take approximately 14-22 months to go to court. Therefore, you should write down everything about the accident while it is fresh in your memory. Your notes should address the following: • time and date of accident • where were you going or coming from (why were you driving?) • weather conditions • police officer’s name • facts of the accident (were you or the other driver on a cell phone at the time of the accident?) • names and contact information for any witnesses • names and addresses of any passengers • place of the accident The more detailed your notes, the better your chance of receiving the compensation you deserve. These notes will be useful if you need to contact an attorney to collect damages... If the police do not arrive at the scene, file a written report at the police department as soon after the accident as possible. When talking to the police, do not admit guilt or put blame on others involved in the accident. Try to simply state the facts. For example, instead of saying, “I wasn’t speeding,” tell the officer how fast you were going, “I was going 45 mph in this 50 mph speed zone.” If the officer issues you a ticket, sign it. Signing a ticket is not an admission of guilt; rather, it is a promise that you will appear in court to contest the ticket or pay the ticket at a later time. Refusing to sign a ticket may result in arrest. Before admitting guilt or paying a fine, it is a good idea to contact an accident lawyer so you do not inadvertently hurt your chances of collecting damages from the other driver later. An attorney can help you resolve these legal issues. I beg of you to please drive safely and responsibly this summer. With gas prices on the rise, we can expect to see more and more motorcycles then ever before, and it’s extremely important to keep a close eye out for everyone on our roadways. A memorial fund for Patty Gilman’s at the Chisholm Trail State Bank in Park City. If you want to contribute to help the Gilman family here is where to send your contribution. Make checks out to Patty Gilman memorial fund and send them to: Chisholm Trail State Bank 6160 N. Broadway Wichita, Ks 67219 - Or - Chisholm Trail State Bank PO Box 4658 Wichita, Ks 67204

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Motorcycles

Kevin Helt

2008-06-01 13:45:00

Question: Who invented the first motorcycle?

Answer: It seems like a simple question, but the answer is a bit complicated, most of the information obtained is from Dave Tharp, Virtual Museum Curator. Motorcycles are descended from the “safety” bicycle, bicycles with front and rear wheels of the same size, with a pedal crank mechanism to drive the rear wheel. Those bicycles, in turn were descended from high-wheel bicycles. The high-wheelers were descended from an early type of push-bike, without pedals, propelled by the rider’s feet pushing against the ground. These appeared around 1800, used iron-banded wagon wheels, and were called “bone-crushers,” both for their jarring ride, and their tendency to toss their riders. Gottlieb Daimler (who later teamed up with Karl Benz to form the Daimler-Benz Corporation) is credited with building the first motorcycle in 1885, one wheel in the front and one in the back, although it had a smaller spring-loaded outrigger wheel on each side. It was constructed mostly of wood, with the wheels being of the iron-banded wooden-spoke wagon-type, definitely a “bone-crusher” chassis. It was indeed powered by a single-cylinder Otto-cycle engine, and may have had a spray-type carburetor. (Daimler’s assistant, Wilhelm Maybach was working on the invention of the spray carburetor at the time). If one counts two wheels with steam propulsion as being a motorcycle, then the first one may have been American. One such machine was demonstrated at fairs and circuses in the eastern US in 1867, built by one Sylvester Howard Roper of Roxbury, Massachusetts. There is an existing example of a Roper machine, dated 1869. It’s powered by a charcoal-fired two-cylinder engine, whose connecting rods directly drive a crank on the rear wheel. This machine predates the invention of the safety bicycle by many years, so its chassis is also based on the “bone-crusher” bike. Most of the development during this earliest of eras concentrated on three and four-wheeled designs, since it was complex enough to get the machines running without having to worry about them falling over. The next really notable two-wheeler was the Millet of 1892. It used a 5-cylinder engine built as the hub of its rear wheel. The cylinders rotated with the wheel, and its crankshaft constituted the rear axle. But the first really successful production two-wheeler though, was the Hildebrand & Wolfmueller, patented in Munich in 1894. It had a step-through frame, with its fuel tank mounted on the down-tube. The engine was a parallel-twin, mounted low on the frame, with its cylinders going fore-and-aft. The connecting rods connected directly to a crank on the rear axle, and instead of using heavy flywheels for energy storage between cylinder-firing, it used a pair of stout elastic bands, one on each side outboard of the cylinders, to help out on the compression strokes. It was water-cooled, and had a water tank/radiator built into the top of the rear fender. In 1895, the French firm of DeDion-Buton built an engine that was to make the mass production and common use of motorcycles possible. It was a small, light, high revving four-stroke single, and used battery-and-coil ignition, doing away with the troublesome hot-tube. Bore and stroke figures of 50mm by 70mm gave a displacement of 138cc. A total loss lubrication system was employed to drip oil into the crankcase through a metering valve, which then sloshed around to lubricate and cool components before dumping it on the ground via a breather. DeDion-Buton used this 1/2 horsepower power-plant in road-going tricycles, but the engine was copied and used by everybody, including Indian and Harley-Davidson in the U.S. Although a gentleman named Pennington built some machines around 1895 (it’s uncertain whether any of them actually ran), the first US production motorcycle was the Orient-Aster, built by the Metz Company in Waltham, Massachusetts in 1898. It used an Aster engine that was a French-built copy of the DeDion-Buton, and predated Indian (1901) by three years, and Harley-Davidson (1902) by four.

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Motorcycles

Kevin Helt

2008-04-01 12:10:00

With the weather warming up here more and more motorcycles are taking to the streets, what are some things I can do to be safer?

Answer: Spring is here, and with gas prices continuing to rise, there will probably be record number of motorcycles riding on our streets and highways this year. So we all need to be safe and watch out for each other. Please remember that the number one cause of motorcycle accidents is that the motorist operating the car did not see the motorcyclist. So stay out of other motorists’ blind spots. Motorcyclists always need to assume they’re invisible to everyone else. A good rule of thumb is to look at the car’s mirror; if you can’t see the driver, he can’t see you either. Another way to stay more visible is to refrain from weaving in and out of traffic, since drivers cannot predict where you’re going to be next and might even get nervous and swerve into you. Plus this can be considered aggressive driving, and we all know where that can lead too. Look through the back windows and windshields of cars in front of you, and double-check the passing lane before you pass. Pass only in instances where it’s legal and safe. Remember that “white lining it,” or passing other motorists in their own lanes, is not recommended for beginning riders, and California is the only state where this is even legal. To summarize Be visible: • Remember that motorists often have trouble seeing motorcycles and reacting in time. • Make sure your headlight works and is on day and night. • Use reflective strips or decals on your clothing and on your motorcycle. • Be aware of the blind spots cars and trucks have. • Flash your brake light when you are slowing down and before stopping. • If a motorist doesn’t see you, don’t be afraid to use your horn. Dress for safety: • Wear a quality helmet and eye protection. • Wear bright clothing and a light-colored helmet. • Wear leather or other thick, protective clothing. • Choose long sleeves and pants, over-the-ankle boots, and gloves. • Remember – the only thing between you and the road is your protective gear. Apply effective mental strategies: • Give yourself space and time to respond to other motorists’ actions. • Give other motorists time and space to respond to you. • Use lane positioning to be seen; ride in the part of a lane where you are most visible. • Watch for turning vehicles. • Signal your next move in advance. • Avoid weaving between lanes. • Pretend you’re invisible, and ride extra defensively. • Don’t ride when you are tired or under the influence of alcohol or other drugs. • Know and follow the rules of the road, and stick to the speed limit. Remember: Give yourself space. People driving cars often just don’t see motorcycles. Even when drivers do see you, chances are they’ve never been on a motorcycle and can’t properly judge your speed.

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Motorcycles

Kevin Helt

2008-04-01 11:37:00

Question: You’ve learned or taken a motorcycle safety course, and have decided to take the next step and buy your first bike. What are a few important factors to consider before you make that big purchase?

Answer: •Don’t overestimate your ability. One common mistake new riders make is to purchase a bike with far more performance than they can handle. Stay away from crotch rockets, especially anything with an engine larger than 600cc; when you learn how to ride on a slower less powerful bike, you’ll become a better rider because of it. Plus, after you’ve developed your skills and gained experience, you’ll be ready to upgrade and truly appreciate a faster more powerful bike. •Consider your needs. Will you be riding on the street in traffic? Or using it for long distancetravels? Or will you be riding on the dirt (trail riding or both)Motorcycles come in many shapes and sizes, and you must consider your individual needs when buying a motorcycle. Check with your local dealer, and ask about the definitions of different bikes, and their specific uses. Consider how you’ll be using your bike, and how riding it will impact your experience; for instance, if you’re looking for a weekend toy, you might be more tolerant of a sexy bike that happens to be uncomfortable. Recognizing your needs will make choosing your future bike become infinitely easier. •Know your options. Bikes have become increasingly specialized in recent years, and with the introduction of different types of motorcycles that are offered the number of choices can be both overwhelming and somewhat confusing. Once you have a better idea of what you want, visit your local dealership and interact with different bikes. Once you do you’ll probably develop distinct likes and dislikes, which will get you one step closer to making a purchasing decision. •Choose a bike that fits your body. This point is less obvious than it might sound. Bikes come in dramatically different shapes and sizes, and so does the human body. Try a bike on for size, and if possible, take it for a spin; you’ll find that the ergonomic experience of riding will differ dramatically from bike to bike. That sport bike you thought was so cool, for instance, might strain your wrists to the point of discomfort. Conversely, that cruiser might win you over with its low seat and manageable center of gravity. You won’t know until you try one on for size! •New or Used? There are a number of trade-offs associated with both new and used bikes, and there is no single “right” choice; the choice is completely individual, and depends on personal preferences (not to mention finances.) Used bikes are great for beginners because there’s usually less worry about scratching or damaging something that’s not already in perfect shape. They’re also often better values, since they’ve already depreciated, though they might not be as reliable as new bikes, and cost more money in the long run. New bikes come with the comfort of reliability, a warranty, though you’ll pay a premium for that peace of mind. •Consider your long-term budget. When committing to buy a motorcycle, don’t forget to estimate all the added expenses associated with riding. Before choosing a bike, be sure to check insurance rates with several carriers, and pick a plan that works with your budget; in general, the higher the deductible, the lower the premium. You’ll want to budget the cost of safety gear. A quality helmet, jacket, gloves, and pants can add up to a substantial amount of money. Also, don’t forget to account for the cost of routine maintenance which can vary wildly, depending on make and type of motorcycle. Though it may be tempting, don’t make a rush to purchase... Buying your first bike is an exciting endeavor, but don’t get too swept away with the heat of the moment. If you see a bike and fall in love with it, make sure you’ll enjoy owning it after the initial thrill fades. Have a used motorcycle checked out by a qualified mechanic. Read up about the model you’re considering, and consider all factors-- economic, practical, and otherwise, before making your purchase. Chances are, you won’t regret your forethought!...and yet, choose a bike you’ll be excited to ride! People rarely choose to buy a motorcycle because they have to; bike purchases are often guided by passion. In spite of the inevitable practical issues to consider, it’s important to choose a bike that you’ll be excited to ride. Many experienced riders will suggest you buy a sensible first bike, and if you can find a motorcycle that fits all the logical criteria and also makes you excited to ride, you’ve chosen well!

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Motorcycles

Kevin Helt

2008-03-01 09:38:00

Question: My son bought my grandson an “ATV” for Christmas. Can you please help me so that I may better understand why they are so popular?

Answer: ATV - A small, open motor vehicle having one seat and three or more wheels fitted with large tires. It is designed chiefly for recreational use over road less, rugged terrain. The term “All-Terrain Vehicle” or ATV is used in a general sense to describe any of a number of small open motorized vehicles designed for off-road use. However, the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) defines an ATV as a vehicle that travels on low pressure tires, with a seat that is straddled by the operator, and with handlebars for steering control. By the current ANSI definition, it is intended for use by a single operator, although a change to include 2-seaters (in tandem) is under consideration. The rider sits on and operates these vehicles like a motorcycle, but the extra wheels give more stability at slow speeds. Although typically equipped with three or four wheels, six-wheel models exist for specialized applications. Engine sizes of ATVs currently for sale in the United States (as of 2008 products) range from 49cc to 950cc and 49cc to 400cc for two stroke models. •Development •Early Days; ATVs were made in the United States a decade before 3- and 4-wheeled vehicles were introduced by Honda and other Japanese companies. During the 1960s numerous manufacturers offered similar small off-road vehicles, that were designed to float and were capable of traversing swamps, ponds and streams as well as dry land. Typically constructed from a hard plastic or fiberglass “tub”, they usually had six wheels - all driven - with low pressure (around 3 PSI) balloon tires, no suspension (other than what the tires offered) and used a skid-steer steering setup. These early amphibious models were the original all-terrain vehicles - or ATVs. Contrary to today’s definition of an ATV, they were intended for multiple riders, sitting inside, and would usually have steering wheels or control sticks rather than motorcycle-type handle bars as stipulated in the current definition. •Three wheelers; All-Sport made the first three-wheeled ATVs in 1970, which were famously portrayed in the James Bond movie, “Diamonds Are Forever”. Dubbed the US90 and later - when Honda acquired the trademark on the term - the ATC90, it was designed purely for recreational use. Clearly influenced by earlier ATVs, it featured large balloon tires instead of a mechanical suspension. By the early 1980s, suspension and lower-profile tires were introduced. The 1982 Honda ATC200E Big Red was a landmark model. It featured both suspension and racks, making it the first utility three-wheeled ATV. The ability to go anywhere on terrain that most other vehicles could not cross soon made them popular with US and Canadian hunters, and those just looking for a good trail ride. Soon other manufacturers introduced their own models. Sport or high performance models were also developed by Honda, which had a virtual monopoly on the market, due to effective patents on design and engine placement. Over the next few years, almost all manufacturers developed high performance two-stroke powered machines to compete against Honda’s monopoly on the market, but did not sell as many due to the reputation already secured by Honda in the market. But any success of this particular model would be short lived, as safety issues with 3-wheel ATVs caused all manufacturers to switch to 4-wheeled models in the late ‘80s, and 3-wheel models ended production in 1987, due to consent decrees between the major manufacturers and the Consumer Product Safety Commission. • Four wheelers; Suzuki was a leader in the development of 4-wheeled ATVs. It sold the first unit in 1982 which was a recreational machine meant for beginner riders. But by the mid 80’s all manufacturers were battling over the now very popular Sport ATV market. These were a sophisticated long-travel suspension, a liquid-cooled two-stroke motor and a fully manual 5 or 6-speed transmission. It was a machine exclusively designed for racing by highly skilled riders. Models continue today to be divided into the sport and utility markets. Sport models are generally small, light, two wheel drive vehicles which accelerate quickly, have a manual transmission, and run at speeds up to 90 miles per hour (145 km/h). Sport models are built with performance, rather than utility, in mind. To be successful at fast trail riding, an ATV must have light weight, high power, good suspension and a low center of gravity. These machines can be modified for such racing disciplines as motocross, woods racing (also known as cross country), desert racing (also known as Hare Scrambles), hill climbing, ice racing, speedway, TT (Tourist Trophy), flat track, drag racing and others. Due to EPA emissions regulations, most manufacturers started phasing out the two-stroke engine with newly designed four-stroke motors. Utility models are generally bigger four wheel drive vehicles with a maximum speed of up to 72.5 miles per hour (104 km/h). They have the ability to haul small loads on attached racks or small dump beds. They may also tow small trailers. Due to the different weights, each has advantages on different types of terrain. Six wheel models often have a small dump bed, with an extra set of wheels at the back to increase the payload capacity. • Criticisms of ATVs Since the late 1980s, ATV use has tripled across the United States. This has led to greater conflict between ATV users and child-safety advocates, rural landowners, fellow outdoor recreation lists and environmentalists. • Safety Issues In 1988, the All-terrain Vehicle Safety Institute (ASI) was formed to provide training and education for ATV riders. The cost of attending the training is minimal and is free for purchasers of new machines. Successful completion of training such as provided here is in many states a minimum requirement for minor-age children to be granted permission to ride on state land. Since the expiration of the consent decrees between the major manufacturers and CPSC in April of 1998, the manufacturers have entered into “voluntary action plans” that mimic the previously mandatory consent decrees. However, despite the move from 3-wheel to 4-wheel models and the action plans, some deaths and injuries still occur. Statistics released by CPSC show that in 2005, there were an estimated 136,700 injuries associated with ATVs treated in US hospital emergency rooms. Critics point out that blanket policies concerning age are not sufficient and often use as example that early teen male children are physically larger and stronger than many adult women riders. Some localities have either banned minors (typically those under 12 years of age) from using ATVs or are considering such legislation. Advocates of ATVs argue that starting younger improves safety. They recommend that children can develop the necessary expertise by starting as young as 6 years of age instead of waiting until age 18. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission approved the sale of sub-50cc ATVs for use by youngsters as young as age 6. • Land Usage Some ATV riders knowingly cross privately owned property in rural areas and travel over public/private properties where their use is explicitly limited. Subsequently, environmentalists criticize ATV riding as a sport for excessive use in areas environmental movement-friendly biologists consider to be sensitive, especially wetlands and sand dunes. While the deep treads on some ATV tires are effective for navigating rocky, muddy, and root covered terrain, these treads also dig channels that may drain boggy areas, increase sedimentation in streams at crossings and damage groomed snowmobile trails. ATV advocacy groups have been organized to purchase property and/or obtain permission of landowners. Many states pay the clubs to build and maintain trails suitable for ATV riding and educate ATV riders about responsible riding. Many states have also formed separate governing bodies that license ATVs separately than other ORVs. The monies from gas taxes and registrations are used to create more trails to ride and perform grooming and maintenance. Nationally, the US Forest Service considers managed ATV use to be a legitimate activity in national forests, yet it also lists their unregulated use as one of the four greatest threats to long term forest management. The US Forest Service recently released a national travel management plan designed to minimize the negative environmental impacts of ATVs while providing a safe, sustainable and enjoyable opportunity for ATV users. Remember always be responsible whenever and wherever you ride.

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Motorcycles

Kevin Helt

2008-02-01 10:12:00

How much of a role should fuel mileage play into keeping your present bike versus trading it in for a new or different one?

he fuel mileage of the average motorcycle is a lot better than that of the average car or truck, so it might seem that fuel mileage would not be a big issue. But with gas topping three bucks a gallon during part of the past year and threatening to do so again with every future meteorological or political crisis, two-wheel fuel mileage could become an issue. We motorcyclists like to believe that we are already ahead of the environmental and gasoline price curve since we are riding fuel-efficient vehicles every day. However, modern motorcycles are nowhere near as fuel efficient as they should be. Big Twins struggle to reach 40 MPG between city and highway riding. That might be great fuel mileage if you’re driving a full size truck, but for a two wheeled vehicle, you should do alot better. It is almost impossible to see 60 MPG unless you downsize to small and underpowered bikes 250 cc territory or less, and it’s highly unlikely that your average touring big bike rider is going to trade in their ride for a 250 any time soon. But there are some things you can do to squeeze the most out of each gallon of pricy and environmentally-damaging gasoline. Follow these tips and watch your MPG soar! Oh, and most of them apply when you’re driving your car too! Keep the RPM in the power-band. On a manual-transmission motorcycle, the most important thing is not necessarily the speed you are traveling but what the tachometer reads. There is not a huge difference in load on a motorcycle at say, 4,000 RPM in second or in third gear, therefore fuel economy will be similar in both gears, even though you are going significantly faster in third. Experiment to find out where the power-band is on your bike, in most cases under the power-band will feel sluggish and over the power-band the engine is screaming and reaching redline. Different bikes have different power-bands. Huge V-twin cruisers get into the power-band at about 1,800 RPM and out at around 3,000. Some sport-bikes don’t even get close to the power-band until 7,000 RPM and keep it up until 10,000 or more! Bottom line is, don’t lug or over-rev it. Your MPG figures will thank you. Don’t drag race/start. You’re not hunkered over a nitro methane fueled dragster at your local race way, you’re commuting through traffic. Nobody is impressed and thinks you’re hot if you do burnouts at every stoplight. Try to imagine a half-empty glass of water on your gas tank. Try to take off from a stop without spilling it. Don’t blip the throttle. When you’re idling at a stoplight in your car, you don’t push up and down on your accelerator pedal, so why can’t you let 3 seconds go by in neutral without twisting your bike’s throttle. Again, you do not impress anyone with the fact you have an engine. Ride what fits. If your relatively big rider and would love the 100+ MPG of a 50cc moped, you have to realize that it’s highly unlikely. Not only would you squish a moped by just sitting on it, but the little 50cc engine is not going to have the grunt to get away from a stoplight with your tonnage on it. However, we could all analyze our requirements and take a serious look at the possibility of trading in for a “relatively” smaller displacement bike. Big twin riders would find that there are a significant number of truly righteous rides in the 800-900cc category that provide very similar around-town and legal highway speed performance while delivering about 50% better MPG. More next month regarding motorcycle maintenance and how this can help with performance and economy.

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Motorcycles

Kevin Helt

2008-01-01 14:23:00

What are some tips to help me stay warm while riding this winter?

There are enough sunny days throughout the winter months it’s worth getting out for a ride to make up for all those dreary days when you won’t care to ride. And even though a day in January may be sunny, it can be downright cold, so knowing what to wear and how to beat the chill will make your ride much more enjoyable. Times have changed from even 10 years ago. We know a lot more now about how to keep warm than ever before, technology is well ahead of a decade ago and learning the art of staying warm can provide some great riding times ahead. So we’ve come up with our top 10 ways to stay warm. If you have one or two be sure to email them over to us. 1. Get The Wind Out – You’ve heard the term ‘wind stopper,’ but just what does it mean? If the wind gets into your gear it will rob you of your precious body heat. Don’t let it happen. If you’re riding gear is allowing this to occur, replace it with better gear that won’t. We’ve seen a lot of leather and textile sport gear that has elastic points at the inner knee and on the arms. Great for spring and summer, lousy for cold days. 2. Put On Your Rain Gear – One surefire way to keep the wind out is to own a good set of raingear. Rain gear works as a wind stopper and does wonders for maintaining your core temperature. 3. Dump Your Cotton – Heard this one before? It’s my latest mantra and I’d tell you to do the same thing if it were summer too. Cotton gear can get down right uncomfortably cold if it gets wet or retains the slightest amount of your body’s moisture. Leave it at home. Cotton and motorcycle riding don’t mix well together. Dump your cotton socks, tee shirt, underwear, jeans and sweaters. The sooner the better. 4. Get Some Synthetic Base Layers – Ahhh, so now that we’ve dumped the cotton the question is what to wear. The answer is to get some base layer clothing made of synthetics. Most base layer clothing you can buy at an outdoor store is made for outdoor athletic activities such as skiing, playing football or hiking. Brands like Under Armor were not designed for ‘leisure activities’ like sitting still on a motorcycle for long durations of time. Some line use a different blend altogether of synthetic fabrics and does not have a brushed interior so you won’t melt when you go indoors. Find out more and consider a pair for yourself. 5. Get Some Real Winter Gloves – Spending $25 or $50 on a pair of supposed winter motorcycle gloves will not make you very happy in the end. You need a glove that can insulate with wind crossing over it at 60 mph. There are very few on the market that can do this for long. Most winter glove will only retain body warmth up to about an hour. If you need to retain heat longer consider using heated glove inserts or investing in a set of electrically heated gloves. Many companies make a good line of heated inserts. 6. Glove Liners – Already have an expensive pair of winter gloves you don’t want to give up, but you’d like to shoot for a little more warmth? The issue with winter gloves is that unless they wick well, your hands will sweat in them and then get cold from being wet. Look for a pair of glove liners that will wick the moisture away from your skin. 7. Socks – Thermolite is a great fabric when used in socks, too. Many folks make a great winter Thermolite sock that blends the synthetic fabric with Merino wool to provide warm and dry coverage for your feet. 8. Keep Your Core Warm – The trick to keeping your body warm for a long period of time is to keep the core warm. You can do this by wearing a warm synthetic liner, dawning a fleece vest or purchasing a heated vest or jacket. There are two types of heated vests on the market. The first is for the once-in-a-while rider who rides only several times a year on cold days. It’s called an air activated heating vest and utilizes carbon charcoal air-activated packets, also known as heat packs that create warmth for 16 to 20 hours. The packets are inserted into internal pockets in the vest and can be suspended when not in use by placing them into an air tight bag until they are needed again. The second choice is more for the rider who likes to ride on a regular basis throughout the cold months. For that we recommend an electric vest or jacket... 9. Let’s Eat – Okay, so while we’re on the subject of keeping your core warm, what’s the most natural way to do it? By eating of course. Filling your tummy full of food turns on the digestive apparatus generating heat while it’s processing the food. If you’re cold on your ride it may be time to park and get a bite to eat. 10. More heat packs please – We’ve already talked about using heat packs in your gloves and inserting them into the specially designed vest. Go one step further and get some for your feet to place at the toe points in your boots. Here we’ve discussed ways to stay warm based on what you wear and what you eat. There are several other tricks too like heated grips and heated seats. But whatever tricks you use to stay warm on cold days it’s good to know you have the motivation to enjoy the ride and not dread a forty degree morning cruise.

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Motorcycles

Kevin Helt

2007-12-01 10:04:00

What are some things I can do to protect myself, and become a safer rider?

Last month we talked about motorcycles being safe, and determined that they are indeed safe. Most accidents are caused by inexperienced or unlicensed riders. Let’s go a step further and discuss how you can be even safer when you ride. No matter what type of motorcycle you ride, almost everyone falls off sooner or later and protective gear can help prevent or reduce injuries. Protective gear is most effective in simple falls and slides on the road. However there is a limit to what protective clothing can do. If you get hit by a car, or collide with a solid object, nothing you wear will protect you from the impact, but it may still help minimize some injuries and ensure a more speedy recovery by keeping wounds clean. A study of motorcycle crashes, found that riders wearing protective clothing spent less time recovering, and healed from any injuries much faster, than those who were not protected. The protected riders were also 40% less likely to have suffered a permanent physical defect. The study also concluded that protective clothing was significantly effective in preventing or reducing at least 43% of injuries to the skin and soft tissue and 63% of deep and extensive injuries. The impact in most crashes actually occurs at relatively low speeds (75% at less than 45 mph). These are the crashes where protective clothing is of most value, when you are sliding and tumbling along the road surface but not if you hit a solid object. There is a limit to what protective clothing can do. When it comes to serious injuries to the limbs and torso, there is little difference between riders with and without. However, the right protective clothing can almost certainly: • Prevent most of the cuts, gravel rash and friction burns as you slide along a road. • Protect you from exhaust pipes burns if the bike ends up on top of you. • Reduce the risk of infection and complications caused by road dirt in open wounds. • Save you from having the muscles and skin of your hands and legs stripped from your body. The medical term is “de-gloving” - think about it. • Prevent or reduce the severity of some fractures and joint damage. Protective clothing Jackets and pants Most riders wear a motorcycle jacket, but few wear motorcycle pants. This is despite the fact there is actually far more risk of injury to the legs than to the upper body or arms. Boots Over 80% of motorcyclists who are injured in a crash have some injuries to their legs, including their feet, and ankles. Your feet are the part of your body that is most likely to make contact with the road first that could result in injuries even at a slow speed or minor crash. Boots are very important. Gloves Motorcycle gloves need to keep your hands warm but not sweaty. They need to be sufficiently robust to provide protection from injuries without restricting your ability to operate the controls. They need to be designed and fitted to stay on your hands in a crash. Helmets There are standards for motorcycle helmets. If the helmet complies with DOT Standard and is in good condition, then it will provide as much protection as you can expect in a crash provided it fits and is fastened correctly. This means that you don’t have to buy the most expensive helmet in the shop. The essential factor is fit. Cost is not an indicator of better crash protection but may relate more to comfort, features, appearance and the quality of the finish. Fit is critical Choose a helmet that fits well. Many of the good motorcycle shops will have staff who will assist with the correct selection of size. • It should not move around on the head, nor place pressure on the forehead. Keep it on for 5 or 10 minutes before you buy, to be sure it is comfortable. • When the straps are securely fastened, ask someone to try to pull it off your head by grasping it at the nape and pulling up and forward. The nose contact is the limit for most helmets, the less movement the better. If it comes off, it is dangerous - chose another style. Check your peripheral vision to make sure you are happy with the width of the eye-port. If you wear glasses, do they cause pressure points? Remember that good protective gear can prevent or reduce some types of injury in a crash. And well designed motorcycle gear will make you safer and more alert by reducing discomfort, fatigue, and possible dehydration. Also bright colors and contrast may make you more visible and draw the attention of other motorists.

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Motorcycles

Kevin Helt

2007-11-01 08:42:00

Are motorcycles really that unsafe?

Did you know that all 50 states require motorcycle riders to obtain a special license or endorsement to operate a motorcycle on public streets and highways? Yet an alarming statistic shows that over 20% of the national motorcycle population is not properly licensed. Data shows that motorcycle riders who are unlicensed or improperly licensed are over-represented in fatal crashes by more than 100% nationally and by as much as 400% in some states, and about 35% of motorcycle riders nationally who are involved in fatal crashes are not properly licensed, with some states reporting as many as 80% of their motorcycle fatalities as improperly licensed riders. Findings also indicate that the overall number of motorcycle crashes and fatalities would be greatly reduced if more motorcycle riders who are currently operating without a proper license would successfully complete a comprehensive training course and become properly licensed. The numbers are staggering but easily preventable through education and training. With all 50 states requiring motorcycle riders to be licensed and with most offering training courses, there is no excuse for operating a motorcycle illegally. The bottom line is that motorcycles are extremely fun to ride, and with proper training can be very safe as well. With fuel costs continually rising more and more people are looking for more efficient transportation, with motorcycles being one of the most efficient means. You can expect to see an increase of motorcycles on our roads and highways. If you don’t ride, please look for motorcycles, and be thoughtful and courteous of those who do. And if you do ride please remember these key points. • Get trained and licensed. • Wear protective gear - all the gear, all the time-including a helmet manufactured to the standards set by the Department of Transportation (DOT). • Ride unimpaired by alcohol or other drugs. • Ride within your own skill limits. • Be a lifelong learner by taking refresher courses.

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Motorcycles

Rod Taylor

2007-06-01 09:43:00

I am considering selling my motorcycle. Do you have any suggestions on how I would go about doing this?

So you have decided to sell your motorcycle. People choose to sell their used motorcycle for numerous reasons. Some people sell their used motorcycle because they are buying a new one or another used one. Others may be selling their used motorcycle due to a lack of time to ride, moving, or various family reasons. You have several options when it comes to selling your used motorcycle. You could trade it in on another motorcycle, sell it to a motorcycle dealer, or use a dealer to sell your bike, on consignment, or simply sell it yourself. If you choose to trade it in or sell it to a motorcycle dealer, the most you will probably receive from the dealer is the wholesale value of the motorcycle. If you choose to sell your used motorcycle yourself then you will be able to ask for the full retail value of the motorcycle. Even if you have to negotiate the price down a little with a potential buyer you are still going to be ahead. Physical Appearance We are visual creatures. So the first thing you should do is clean your motorcycle like it has never been cleaned before. You may also consider having it professionally cleaned or detailed. It may also be a good idea to have minor blemishes repaired before selling your motorcycle. The cost of having a scratched fender touched up will probably be less than the amount you would have to deduct during the negotiating process. Your potential buyer will be far more enthused negotiating the purchase of your motorcycle if it has been well taken care of. Mechanical Make sure your motorcycle is tuned up and starts. It’s a bad deal to lose a sale because of a simple thing such as a battery not being charged. However, if your motorcycle has major mechanical problems it may not be worth having those repaired before selling. Major repairs usually cost more than the increase in price you’ll receive for your motorcycle. If your motorcycle has major mechanical problems then be sure to be honest about them when placing your ad. Responding to Inquiries Know your motorcycle. Be prepared to answer questions about your used motorcycle. Try to exchange as much information about your motorcycle over the phone and via e-mail. This will save both you and potential buyers from wasted appointments. When making appointments with potential buyers be sure to set a specific time to meet. Setting an appointment where the potential buyer will come by sometime on Saturday usually doesn’t work and be prepared for some no shows. We also would like to remind you of potential fraudulent buyers. Many people that sell a used motorcycle, car, boat, etc. via online classifieds or in newspaper classifieds will receive inquiries from fraudulent buyers. Be particularly wary if the buyer is located overseas. Test Drives This is one where you will have to use your own good judgment. Almost all motorcycle dealers do not allow test drives due liability reasons. So why should you take the same risk? If you do decide to allow a test drive then be sure to meet in a large public parking lot with a lot of people around. Allow them to test drive the bike only in the parking lot and only if they are willing to let you hold their driver’s license. You know the value of your motorcycle, so be sure to use your best judgment on this one. Selling your used motorcycle yourself will take a lot of effort. So another option to consider is selling it on consignment; there are a number of good quality motorcycle dealers that have consignment programs set up just for you.

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Motorcycles

Rod Taylor

2007-05-01 10:29:00

Question: I was with some fellow motorcyclists, and we were reminiscing about past experiences. Having been around motorcycles most of your adult life, do you have any early cycling memories you would like to share?

Most of my childhood I traveled around, and was unable to become very close to anyone until I landed here in Kansas. Then I met a gentleman with some of the same interests. Both of us thought we had come of age, as we were driving under the tender age of 14. You probably remember that time of life when your body has outgrown your brain. Most boys of that era earned well under minimum wage. But actually our pay wasn’t so bad. However buying any type of slick car at that age was out of the question. And, most guys ended up with some type of old granny-mobile which required intensive maintenance, and had no hope of attracting as much as a casual glance from the opposite sex. On the other hand, a great bike could be just the thing. Envisioning ourselves as ladie’s men extraordinaire, we opted for the macho effect that a motorcycle might instill. Situations like these also help young boys develop important life skills, such as decision-making. Acquiring a bike at a young age forced us to learn another valuable life skill: persuasion. Selling the idea to his dad was a monumental accomplishment. The old adage about the squeaking wheel getting the grease is actually true. He finally gave in under duress, and purchased a used Suzuki 80. Not exactly the new RM 250 he was hoping for, but it turned out his old man knew more about what he needed for a first bike than he did. Imagine that, a grown man knowing more than a kid. It was a new concept to us, and took some time getting used to. But it taught me another valuable lesson: go for the gold, but learn to be happy with any kind of alloy. He rode that little 80 everywhere. Remember the girl thing? Well that didn’t work as planned. So he started looking for new outlets to challenge his “awesome” cycling skills. One day this friend and I decided to go over to some gullies and do a little jumping. Evil Knievel was popular then, and he thought developing his stunt-riding skills would be a bonus with the ladies. He jumped a few gullies, increasing the amount of “air” he’d catch as his confidence grew. Then I suggested that he jump over there, gesturing to a spot. The spot I suggested was unsuitable for anything related to a motorcycling activity. It may have been fine for training bulldozer operators, but not for anything we were doing. Funny thing, he didn’t even bother to look at the jump before making the attempt (he never did), so I didn’t think he was really going to do it. He rode back down the trail a little, turned the bike around and took off. By the time he got close enough to the edge and saw what was before him, it was too late. At this time I’m quite sure he realized there is a lesson in here somewhere; one, look before you leap; and two, something about beyond the point of no return. But these lessons were coming extremely fast and way too late. It wasn’t the one point front wheel landing, or the brush, or hitting the culvert that hurt. It was his testicles between the rear tire and the fender that was causing all the discomfort. The spinning rear tire had gobbled him up and he was now wedged between the fender and tire all the way up to his groin. He couldn’t get out, and I was no help because I couldn’t get up off the ground from laughing so hard. I’m sure he had two things on his mind, and probably in this order; one was to get this bike off him; and two, put a big whooping on me, the “laughing boy”. I finally recovered enough to help extract him from the bike, and we both limped home with a broken bike and a broken ego. This was his first in a series of many lessons that would follow. But the lesson I’ll never forget: humility, pain, embarrassment, etc. You would have thought that he would leave the jumping to Evil but he didn’t. Three or four bikes, and several bruises later, he finally gave up cycling, and has yet to return. On a serious note, always wear protective gear, ride safe, be courteous and watch out for others. Motorcycling is a great sport which many have enjoyed for countless hours.

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Motorcycles

Rod Taylor

2006-03-01 08:45:00

I’m considering  purchasing a bike.  Any tips on buying new or used?

If you are new to motorcycling, and don't have that ‘I have-to-have a brand new bike attitude’, then buying a used motorcycle is probably for you.  Personally, I’ve had several used motorcycles before I was able, to even consider the big bucks for my first new bike, and they worked out very well.  Yours could too if you follow a few simple tips: A used bike will allow someone not so experienced to enjoy learning to ride instead of worrying about that little scratch that’s sure to occur. Also with the lower cost, it can provide you the opportunity to "tinker" and learn more about how a motorcycle actually works.There are several places to start looking for used motorcycles; bike magazines, newspaper, friends, etc.  They all have motorcycles, and yes they are for sale. However if this is your first, you might want to consider an experienced quality dealer that could help you eliminate some costly errors.  Remember actually riding a motorcycle is a whole lot more enjoyable then pushing one.  Next, give some real serious thought as to your potential riding habits.  Would you be mostly interested in dirt, street, or a combination of both?  But more importantly consider your skill level.  Even though most of us have that “buy things, we don’t need, with money we don’t have, to impress people we don’t know” attitude, this is where you should take a more modest, humble approach.  Face it if you are a fairly inexperienced rider, buying 200-horse power, 200 mile per hour rocket might not be in your best interest.  You may impress someone, but probably only once.  If you do elect the more aggressive approach please remember to ride alone, and away from my neighborhood. Oh and also call America’s Funniest Home Video’s before you ride, it could help pay for your potential hospital visit.For obvious reasons, inspecting a potential new/used bike is the most important part of the process. Missing some signs of damage or abuse can lead to potentially expensive repair bills down the road or, worse yet, lead to a possible crash.One of the most important things to bring with you to inspect a bike is a friend (if you have any), and the best scenario would be a friend who’s an experienced bike mechanic. However, if your friend isn’t motorcycle savvy, he still may be able to point out things that you may miss during your rush to purchase.  They could also help to point out things that may appear irregular and help you stick to your strategy and price budget. If budget were a concern, the ultimate scenario would be to bring a friend that’s a motorcycle mechanic and a millionaire. Just remember a motorcycle is made of a lot of small components but closely examining the major ones could be the difference between having a fun summer of riding or a costly, frustrating one. 

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Motorcycles

Rod Taylor

2006-02-01 14:17:00

My motorcycle has been sitting in my garage for the past couple months. Is it necessary to give my motorcycle a “spring cleaning” before I ride it?

For riders here in Kansas the cold-weather blues is almost over, and it’s time to pull that bike out of the garage. If your motorcycle, like most has spent a long winter's night out of service, remember the following are points to consider when you begin to get it ready for a fun summer of riding.  Some of the following are items that may require special attention after extended storage and things which should get attention now to avoid interrupting the riding season. Your owner's manual should have a checklist for a standard service.Valves: Most manuals will tell you to adjust them when the engine is cold. This is a perfect time to check the values, when will your engine be colder?  Make sure you give those cam lobes a squirt of oil too (I’m quite sure the old stuff is long gone).  When you are done torque the cylinder head too.Battery: If your battery was well charged through the winter, as with a Battery Tender or a regular trickle charge, then it's most likely ready to go. A specific-gravity tester is an inexpensive way to a check battery for good health.  If it was neglected all winter, do not hesitate to give it a regular service (fluid level and slow charge) before expecting trouble free service.  If it’s looking a bit sickly, replace it before it causes problems, making sure the terminals and vent tubes are connected and routed properly. Oil: If you changed the oil before you tucked it away, it’s probably ready to roll. Do keep in mind however; fresh oil can be contaminated by water, which will give it a milky appearance when it is first run. If there’s any question regarding contamination change it immediately and if you didn't change oil before storage, change it now.  Change the filter of course, and always use a torque wrench on that drain plug.  Remember some storage systems make your spring service easier than othersFuel: Leaving your fuel tank full is an excellent way to avoid rust.  If you left your tank full the fuel has probably gone bad (stratified) unless you used a fuel stabilizer. Before turning on your petcock and allowing old or contaminated fuel into your carburetor disconnect the fuel line and drain the tank. (Use the old gas for something other then in an internal combustion engine). This is also good time to clean your fuel filter and you may want to check your tank for rust.  If you didn't drain your carburetor float bowls, pull them off now and take a look. Remember the word stratified, if the inside of your carb has gas that looks something like varnish, or cottage cheese, you probably have clogged jets. Carborator cleaner may do the trick, but you might need new jets and a professional de-clogging (sounds like a program for addicted county and western dancers) as well.Engine: During those first few revolutions, a shot of oil in each spark plug hole followed by a couple of spins of the engine with the plugs removed will protect the cylinder walls and rings before initial start up.  This is an excellent time to check or even change the plugs.  Remember if you’ve been lazy and haven't serviced anything during the winter, the rest of the engine items (air filter, carb synch, drive-line fluids, etc.) should be attended to as well.Brakes: Most don’t think about servicing brakes, after all there’s not much to them.  Trust me there decently important, and need more attention then most give them.  Taking something for granted maybe OK, (marriage, friends, family, etc.) however brakes is not one of them. Install fresh fluid, your old stuff has spent all winter soaking up water and will have very poor consistency. You should definitely do it if you’ve neglected it during the last year or two. Check the pads or shoes too, if they appear thin, get new ones immediately.Suspension and steering: With the front wheel off the ground, sit in front of the bike and grasp the bottom of the forks. Move them back and forth to check for steering-head play. If you feel any movement or clicking from the steering head, tighten it per the owner’s manual.  When was the last time you change your fork oil?  This is also a perfect time to check for fork seals leaking.  If they are take care of it now.Finish protection: Now for the easy stuff.  Before riding your bike, give it a deep coat of wax, and also treat any leather apparel with leather conditioner. This is also a great time to pull things apart and thoroughly clean everything you can get your fingers on. Remove any corrosion, or rust and put on a nice thick layer of wax or any other appropriate product to protect and preserve it during the up coming riding season.  Tuning and working on your on bike yourself can be fun.  However without the proper knowledge and equipment in can be very frustrating.  Remember, safety first in all aspects of motorcycling.  If there’s any doubt have a qualified motorcycle service facility prepare your bike for a fun, safe, trouble free summer of riding. Have a great riding season!