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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2013-06-25 09:37:05

Q-I want to make my backyard more inviting and comfortable for entertaining without spending a fortune. Do you have any quick ideas that could spruce it up?

A-Actually, backyards are one of the easiest places to spend little but see dramatic change. Without knowing what your backyard looks like currently, I will offer some general ideas that might work or at least provide a starting point for other ideas. First, do a cursory assessment of your yard. Think about what you want to achieve, and that will guide your efforts and your spending, whether you want more seating, a greener lawn, or more color. Many backyards have a patio or deck, and this is a great place to start. Most of the time, we fail to take advantage of the opportunity this provides for adding comfort and impact. Try lining your deck with shrubbery that provides a wonderful backdrop and acts almost as an interior wall would. Once in place, you can add even more visual interest by using potted plants and flowers benches, or other interesting seating arrangements. Another idea is to delineate spaces. Add or fix borders along flowerbeds, add fresh mulch, add walkways, or line existing walkways with greenery. Consider adding additional trees or shrubbery along the property line if you like more privacy. Since it sounds like you want to do lots of entertaining, consider adding things that will make that more fun, such as a fire pit or additional seating, or table areas. These do not have to be expensive or even traditional. In fact, upcycling is such a huge trend that you can let your mind go crazy and pull in anything that works for you. Try using logs and tree stumps for stools and side tables, or making a rustic table from old doors. While you do not have to spend a lot to see results, it is also easy to overspend very quickly. If you need help a specialist in the lawn and landscaping business will be happy to advise.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Dan Longan

2013-06-25 09:35:04

Q-I want to plant some flowerbeds around my yard. Can you tell me the proper steps before I jump into the project?

A-As easy as planting a garden might seem, it does take careful planning to achieve success. A lush, colorful, and healthy garden needs just the right circumstances to bring full enjoyment. Step 1 Choose your garden space or spaces. Evaluate the amount of water, sun, shade and cover that may affect flowers in the space. The conditions will guide the variety of choices for planting as, for example, some flowers cannot tolerate full sun while others cannot tolerate shade. You will want to plant flowers with similar tolerances. Step 2 Decide how much effort and maintenance you want to invest in your garden space. You might have a spot that has excellent light, but needs some attention to the soil. Remember that deep digging, tilling and other steps in preparing the soil take time, effort and investment. Step 3 Think about whether you would like one coordinated burst of color or continuous flowering. Investigate and chart the germination and bloom periods of the plants that interest you, and plant according to your desired outcome. Step 4 Choose whether you would like to work with seed, bulbs or started plants, or a combination of all of them. You may find far more varieties of seed for sale than plants, but seed does not always grow well and does require more lead time. Seeds might also require a bit of extra attention and effort such as needing to be started indoors. Also remember that germination times differ, so even the best planned space may fail to blossom and grow at the same rate, potentially leaving holes in your presentation. Step 5 Plan your flower garden ahead of time and consult best planting times and any special concerns. For example, bulbs may have limited shipping dates, seeds may need to be started early, and some varieties may require cold treatment, soaking or scoring before planting. Some plants do not flower until their second season. Step 6 If you are buying seedlings or plants, buy from a local greenhouse where the plants were grown under local conditions, not just shipped in. This will assure a better result. Find out what flowers are available in your area. Choose plants that are healthy, but not yet in bloom. This will give them time to establish themselves in your space and you will have an extended opportunity to enjoy the flowers. One of the biggest mistakes people make is buying plants that have the most flowers. The colors of course draw your attention. However, plants that are blooming when you buy them may be near the end of their period of flowering.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

John Harrison

2013-05-29 13:07:56

Q-What are my options in mulch, and why would one be used over another?

A-Using mulch is a good gardening habit. The benefits of using mulch certainly make it worth the effort. A really good “mulching” of your garden or landscaping usually offers these benefits: • Inhibits weed germination and growth. (Weeds are not only unsightly, but they also steal resources from desirable garden plants) • Moderates soil-temperature fluctuations (This is especially valuable during that turbulent-weather period in spring when you don't want your plants to be stressed.) • Holds in soil moisture, protecting your plants from drying out quickly • In cold-winter areas, protects plant roots from winter cold and helps prevent frost-heaving, in which plants are literally pushed out of the ground by the natural expansion and contraction of the soil as it cools off and heats up • Keeps the plants roots cooler in hot summer temperatures. • Depending on what you use, adds a bit of welcome nutrition as it breaks down There are good, better, and best types of mulch. Ask a professional as to what will fit your needs, desired look or overall appearance. Now is the time!

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Dan Longan

2013-05-29 12:01:10

Q-I do not have a lot of room for a vegetable garden and a friend suggested companion gardening as a way to maximize space and increase my yield. Do you have any thoughts on this? Can you give me a few common examples of what I can plant together?

A-Companion gardening is planting plants together for their mutual benefit. Some may deter pests, others may enhance the soil, and still others may improve the taste of the companion plant. All of the benefits together help increase your yield. Vegetable companion planting list Asparagus: basil, parsley, pot marigold, tomatoes Broccoli: beets, celery, cucumbers, dill, garlic, hyssop, lettuce, mint, nasturtium, onions, potatoes, rosemary, sage, spinach, swiss chard Bush Beans: beets, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, chinese cabbage, corn, cucumbers, eggplants, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, peas, potatoes, radishes, strawberries, swiss chard Cabbage: beets, celery, cucumbers, dill, garlic, hyssop, lettuce, mint, nasturtium, onions, potatoes, rosemary, sage, spinach, Swiss chard Carrots: beans, chives, lettuce, onions, peas, peppers, radishes, rosemary, sage, tomatoes Cauliflower: beets, celery, cucumbers, dill, garlic, hyssop, lettuce, mint, nasturtium, onions, potatoes, rosemary, sage, spinach, Swiss chard Celery: beans, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, chives, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, nasturtium, tomatoes Corn: beans, cucumbers, melons, parsley, peas, potatoes, pumpkin, squash, white geranium Cucumber: beans, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, corn, kale, kohlrabi, marigold, nasturtium, oregano, peas, radishes, tansy, tomatoes Lettuce:beets, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, chives, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, onions, radishes, strawberries Melons: corn, marigold, nasturtium, oregano, pumpkin, radishes, squash Peas: beans, carrots, chives, corn, cucumbers, mint, radishes, turnip Peppers: carrots, eggplants, onions, tomato Pole Beans : broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, Chinese cabbage, corn, cucumbers, eggplants, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, peas, potatoes, radishes, strawberries, swiss chard Pumpkins: corn, marigold, melons, nasturtium, oregano, squash Strawberry: beans, borage, lettuce, onions, spinach, thyme Summer Squash: borage, corn, marigold, melons, nasturtium, oregano, pumpkins Tomatoes: asparagus, basil, bee balm, borage, carrots, celery, chives, cucumbers, mint, onions, parsley, peppers, pot marigold Winter Squash: corn, melons, pumpkins, borage, marigold, nasturtium, oregano These are just a few examples of what you can plant to help improve your success. Depending on your goal, you can gear your planting more toward your goal. For example, if you want to avoid pesticides, try planting the plants that deter pests. Happy Gardening

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2013-05-29 11:32:22

Q-My backyard has grown more weeds than grass the last few years. At this point there are patches of grass surrounded by an aggressive crab grass and other various weeds. Can a lawn that is 60/40 weed be revived? Or should I just have it re-seeded or sodded?

A-While a lawn that is taken over by weeds can be revived, it would likely be a huge and time consuming undertaking. First, you need to know the factors contributing to the problem in the first place, then how to address each of those problems individually or you will have the same problems whether you reseed or sod. Many things contribute to patchy lawns and weed growth, so weeds are only part of the problem. You will want to understand those factors before you do anything to the lawn. The first concern would be your soil conditions. Compacted soil is one of the most common contributors to the problem you are having. Grass does not thrive in compacted soil, but weeds can thrive in almost any condition. It might be necessary to aerate the ground to loosen up the soil. It also might be that your ground could use some soil additive to make it more fertile and conducive to growing a lush lawn. Preventing weeds is far easier than getting rid of them, as you have seen. They have had you in a battle for some time and it can be very frustrating. At 60% weeds, it would probably be best to take the land down to soil and address the weed problem aggressively. The right combination of weed killer and pre-emergent can get you off to a great start when you are ready to either seed or sod. Before you invest your time or money, I would call a professional to get their opinion. It could be that you have the wrong grass for your area, shade, ground, drainage, and watering conditions—or any number of other problems. A professional can help you in the right direction and prevent costly mistakes.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2013-04-30 09:04:32

Q-I just bought my first home. The property was left empty a year and now the grass is brown and overrun by weeds. I want to start over. Do I plant on top of the current grass, rip it out first or what? What are your best tips for keeping it nice once I go through all of the effort? I know it is complicated, and could fill a book but any tips you could provide would be appreciated. Thanks!

A-First, you need to know the condition of your soil. Believe it or not, the soil type and condition can vary considerably in a region. You can contact the local Cooperative Extension Office who will know the soil in your area and have great information specific to your soil condition. A knowledgeable gardener or landscaper will know this information as well. Next, be sure you have an adequate watering system in good working order. No matter what you do, you will not be able to maintain a healthy lawn if you do not have a proper system. Turn it on and see where the water hits, overlaps, pools, or misses. All of these issues will eventually play in to the success of your lawn. Adjust the system if you can, or ask a professional for help. Whether or not you can plant over the top of existing grass depends on the type of grass. I would recommend having a professional look at it and advise you of what to do next. Whether you take it out or not, you will need to address the weeds. Different types of weeds need different solutions. Since the yard sat for a time, you may also want to consider addressing the weeds that are only now germinating and that will emerge later. Once you have the weeds under control you can then work on growing that great lawn. A lawn care professional can suggest the best type of grass for your soil, usage, and desired watering schedule. To keep it green and lush, have your lawn fertilized once in spring, summer and fall. Use a winterizer in winter.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

John Harrison

2013-04-29 15:28:40

Q-I have not been successful when it comes to planting trees. I’m going to give it one more shot this year; do you have any tips for tree planting?

A-Every year, I hear from people that they have not been successful when planting trees. Trees are living things and sometimes no matter what is done you are going to lose a few. Here are a couple of steps to try this spring. Bigger is not always better when it comes to planting trees. If you have good soil you will have better luck, as the tree will always grow better in good soil. If you have poor soil, meaning soil that is heavy clay or rocky, planting a smaller tree will be more beneficial. Poor soil can be amended, but generally, I would recommend planting a small tree in the size of a 5,7, or 15 gallon container. In good soil, you can plant larger field grown trees that are referred to as B&B (balled and burlapped). These trees can be large. In good soil, we can plant trees up to 20 feet. Bugs have been a real problem in the past couple of years, due to the hot dry summers. Borers are a type of bug that lay eggs on certain types of trees and the larva feed on the cambium layer of the tree, which is under the bark. If left untreated, they can severely weaken or even kill the tree. Generally, you cannot see any damage until it’s too late, as the bugs live under the bark. Companies make a spray you use to keep them off trees. It has to be sprayed once a month and after each time it rains during the growing season. There is a new pesticide out that you sprinkle on the ground and you only have to apply it once a year. One way to tell if your tree had borers is that the bark will start to flake off close to the ground and you will see grooves where the larva feed. Borers tend to not attack established trees unless they are weak due to stress. Stress can be caused by recently being planted or abnormally hot and dry weather like we have had the past couple summers. If you are not sure how to water a tree properly you can buy a product called a water gator. It is a bag that sets on top of the root ball of the tree. You fill it with water and it slowly waters the tree. This is the best way to water a tree as the water gets to the roots and does not just run off onto the ground.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

John Harrison

2013-03-25 16:09:23

Q-I’m always eager to start my garden every year. When is it “safe” to start and what plants will last if the weather isn’t ideal?

A-Spring is here!!!! Well I hope it is. I'm writing this in early March and today was beautiful, but it did just snow 2 weeks ago and we live in Kansas. Here is a list of things you can plant in early April and you should not have to worry about the weather. The disclaimer is, we live in Kansas and it can get very cold still but is unlikely too. Early season vegetables like potatoes, onions, lettuce, broccoli are a few. You can also plant most berries including strawberries, blackberries, and blueberries. Tree's and shrubs do very well planted in April. You can also plant perennials. Annual flowers are a bit more tricky. Our average last frost date is April 15th. What that means on an average year is that we will have our last frost on April 15th, that does not mean it cannot frost after that date. Some years the last frost might be in late March. This is not common but is possible. My recommendation would be to wait until close to the middle of April and look at a 7 day forecast and if it is not going to get cold you will probably be fine. You will have to pay attention to the weather as it is hard to predict and you may still have to protect your plants if it is going to get even close to a frost. Here is a list of annuals that can tolerate it on the cool side and are a little more forgiving than some in the cold. Petunias, violas and pansies, dianthus, snapdragons, and dusty miller. Annuals to plant when it is warm and there are no threats of cold temperatures include sweet potato vine, vinca, marigolds, moss rose, impatiens, and begonias. If unsure ask at you local independent garden center and they will best be able to help you with what is safe to plant and what is not.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2013-03-25 15:46:39

Q-Can you tell me how to debug my property and make it safe for spring and summer play and parties?

A-Debugging your yard depends on a few things, such as the types of bugs, plants, and the past and current weather conditions, among many others. Debugging properly will also require knowing which pesticides or herbicides to use for each problem, and when. Unfortunately, debugging is not as simple as we wish or think it to be. No one solution or application will take care of every bug, and if not done properly, many applications will fail completely. First, you need to know that pesticides and herbicides are a tool in your tool box, but not the only one. You can begin now by making your property less attractive to bugs. Do this by: • Mow the lawn frequently. • Clear tall grasses. • Remove brush. • Stack wood neatly in a dry area. • Remove leaf litter. • Place toys and playground equipment in a sanded area. • Do not over-water your yard. • Never leave standing water. • For lawns bordered by fields, create a 3ft wide border of gravel, sand, or woodchips. Next, know the types of bugs you are wanting remove. Not every pesticide or herbicide will kill off every bug. Also, you will want to know when is the best time to apply the chemicals for that particular pest. If you apply too soon or too late it can render the application useless. Early spring is a great time to address most bug problems. Talk to your lawn care professional about your concerns and ask about proper applications for your particular problems.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2013-03-01 14:47:59

Q-What tips can you give me on getting my yard in shape for spring?

A-Just about this time every year, many people get the itch to get outside and begin again on their lawns and landscaping. Spring is a great time to begin all of those projects to make your yards look more appealing for upcoming warm weather celebrations. First, look at the current state of your lawn and determine the current needs. The goal is to bring your lawn back to good health and whatever you do now will have a lasting impact on how well it fares through the warmer months ahead. You will want to consider picking up debris, dethatching, seeding, and applying a slow-release fertilizer. Next, if your deciduous trees or shrubs are still dormant, you will want to trim back any branches that are crossing over or ones that might pose a threat of safety or ones that overhang areas where they could cause damage. Prune out any dead, broken or diseased branches or limbs from trees, shrubs, and roses. If you have not already, cut back any perennials in the garden before they start to grow. Cut leaves and stalks down to nearly ground level. Remember to clean out the flowerbeds from dead leaves or other debris that could harbor pests. It is also a good time to consider removing and replacing mulch. If adding new mulch, remember the depth should not exceed 3 inches. This is also a great time to attend to your borders. Use a spade to truck back the soil away from the lawn, redefining the space. Consider adding edging while the area is freshly dug. Nothing makes a yard stand out more than crisp borders. If you are using chemical control, you will want to be sure that you apply it correctly and at the right time. Much depends on the brand and type that you use and the particulars of each will affect such things as when you apply compost or fertilizer. It is easy to make mistakes here so make sure you know the product. If you are not sure, talk to a landscape professional. Have a great spring and enjoy your beautiful yard.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

John Harrison

2013-03-01 14:07:55

Q-Is it safe to move a plant or tree that has already been established? When is the best time?

A-I get asked a lot about when is the best time to move a plant that is already established in the landscape. The best time to move an existing plant would be right before the plant comes out of dormancy. March is a great time. Most plants go into dormancy through the winter months and once the ground warms up to a certain temperature they start to "wake up." Not all plants will wake up at the same time but for most they start growing in April so that makes March the perfect time. If you want to move a tree my advice would be not to try and move anything over 6-8' tall. It is just too hard to keep enough of the root-ball intact and this would lead to a high mortality rate. With shrubs I would remove up to a third of the top growth and try to keep as much of root-ball intact as you can. Perennials are a lot easier to move. Simply dig up the root-ball and move to the desired new spot. You can also divide the perennials now if you need to. To divide a perennial simply cut the root-ball in half or thirds making sure to have at least 2 or 3 eyes on each division. An eye is the part of the plant that actually puts up the foliage that you see above the ground. Not all perennials divide well. Daylilies, hosta, sedums, liriope, yarrow, and shasta daisy are some that are easy to divide. I also get asked when is the best time to plant a tree. The truth is September-October. That does not mean you cannot do it in the spring. Most of the trees sold in the spring just require more care that first summer. If you are thinking about planting this spring there is no reason to wait until May or June. March and April are even better as the plant has more time to get rooted into the soil before those hot summer days hit. The most stressful time for most plants, is the first summer. The more time you give that plant in the ground before the first summer the better the plant will perform for you.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

John Harrison

2013-02-01 09:20:09

Q-I'm getting spring fever; what should I do about it?

A-Hey we all get spring fever and for me it's the best time of the year. The first thing I would tell you to do about spring fever is get outside on those nice days and enjoy it. You can do a little spring clean up like removing leaves and pulling weeds. Pulling weeds? You’re kidding me,it’s February. Well just go look and you might be surprised. The weeds can really take over fast if you do not nip them in the bud. If the weather isn't too cold you can also do a little trimming. You can trim your evergreens except Azeala's. The rule of thumb on trimming is if it blooms in summer or fall you trim it in the spring. After you trim you can put down a fresh layer of mulch. Ideally for shrubs you would have 3 to 4". In perennial and annual beds an inch is better so that the crown of the plant can breathe. Smaller plants can rot if to much mulch is applied to the top of them. Now that you made it outside and received a couple mail-order catalogs in the mail you can look through them. Warning about mail order catalogs: they are fun to look at, but I would recommend that you did not purchase any live plants or bare-root plants from them. You will be able to find a better quality plant for the same price or less from an actual garden center. Most of what they mail will be small and not suitable for planting. A local garden center can also tell you if the plant that you’re looking at will actually grow in our area. There are plants out of catalogs that will not grow in our climate. Let’s hope we have a nice long spring this year and make summer wait.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Jeanie Erwin

2013-02-01 08:34:13

Q-I’m always interested in learning about new local businesses and the ever changing landscape of the local market. Anything new out there?

A-If you have ever considered freeing up your weekends for fun & family rather than yard work, or you’ve tried and failed at yard maintenance, you will want to check out Cedar Creek Landscape Management, Inc. Cedar Creek Landscape Management, Inc. is owned by Justin Cawyer, who is a frequent contributor to the Q&A Times and has personally been in the lawn care business for 25 years. Cawyer, formerly part owner of American Lawn & Landscape, recently set out on his own to form Cedar Creek. “My family and I started when I was young and every year I have been adding to my knowledge and services. We have a certain way we like for our own lawn to look and carry that mindset throughout our business. I personally wouldn’t want to pay someone to do a sub-par job and I don't think our customers should have to either,” Says Cawyer. Far from a typical landscaping service, Cedar Creek offers the complete package so you only have one call to make. They specialize in providing top-notch commercial quality services to both homes and businesses. “We have trained employees on landscape design, install and maintenance, mowing, weed control, fertilizer application, tree spraying, snow removal and unlike anyone else; we offer Christmas light design and installation. We do our best to tailor our services to fit each customer’s needs.” The company holds a firm belief that if you are paying for professional services, your property should look professionally maintained, and makes sure that going the extra mile is their signature. It’s important to pay close attention to details. Anyone can get on a mower and mow, their work stands out, even taking the extra time to stripe lawns like a baseball field and trim every scheduled service. “When we leave, we want your lawn to look better than your neighbors'. I believe that is the service our customers deserve and will come to expect.” "Character matters," says Cawyer "and we want to make a good name for ourselves and our children. It’s very important to take pride in the work we do. We are not just out there to get one job done quickly, to simply move on to another one. It is up to individuals to make communities a better place and we are striving to do our part to make SEK a beautiful and great place to live." Cedar Creek Landscape Management, Inc. has the knowledge and experience; and they will take the time to make your home or business look the best it can in 2013. For more information on Cedar Creek Landscape Management, Inc. please call 620-249-5700.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2013-01-02 14:43:34

Q-I have some friends that invest a lot of time on their lawn and come spring, it looks fabulous. They credit the work they put into the yard to prepare and protect it for winter. What kind of efforts would you suggest?

A-As we briefly touched on last month, if you do only one thing to prepare your yard for winter, rake the leaves. Leaves can smother the grass, turning it to a dirt patch over the winter months. If the winter is unusually warm or overly wet, the leaves can rot and breed bacteria that can damage the lawn and other plants in the area. We have many deciduous trees here in Southeast Kansas. When the weather changes (as it already has), deciduous trees go through a unique process that can be very beautiful and also very frustrating to say the least. Unlike coniferous trees (which keep their needles or leaves throughout the cold winter months) deciduous trees actually shed their leaves and enter a dormant state. In other words, the tree stops producing chlorophyll which gives leaves their green coloring. In most cases the leaves then turn brilliant shades of red, orange or yellow. Eventually they fall from the tree, leaving the branches bare and your yard blanketed in dead, crunchy leaves. Because the leaves of a tree are its only source of energy and nutrients, most trees produce hundreds, and in many cases thousands of leaves. Raking all these leaves can take many days of hard labor. Homes with large trees surrounding it may be covered in a blanket of tens of thousands of dead leaves. These leaves all must be removed from lawns before the winter weather sets in. If you are using a traditional rake, you will be knee deep in leaves for hours. Raking leaves into piles is further complicated by the gusts of wind that are associated with our Southeast Kansas weather. Gusts of wind often demolish your recently raked pile and hours of work. Your lawn can become saturated with moisture in the winter months, considering these leaves aren’t removed. This excess moisture can cause rot or fungus growth in your lawn which can completely destroy your crop of grass. Hiring a professional to remove the leaves on your lawn will require no time or effort on your part, and it can help you to maintain a healthy lawn throughout the winter and into the spring. When in doubt, talk to a professional.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2012-11-19 11:27:57

Q- I have some friends that invest a lot of time on their lawn and come spring, it looks fabulous. They credit the work they put into the yard to prepare and protect it for winter. What kind of efforts would you suggest?

A- It is easy to think of winter as an inactive time for our yards but actually, it can be very productive. What you do now can make a huge difference in the beauty of your yard in the spring. First, think of your yard as a population of plants, trees, and grasses of differing needs. When we address all of those needs, the landscape becomes a ready canvas for new growth. If you do only one thing to prepare for winter, rake the leaves. Leaves can smother the grass, turning it to a dirt patch over the winter months. If the winter is unusually warm or overly wet, the leaves can rot and breed bacteria that can damage the lawn and other plants in the area. Next, aerate and fertilize the lawn. The lawn by this time is ready for some nutrients and aerating the lawn will assure it stays well fed. Choose a winterizer type fertilizer for best results. In the flowerbeds, you will also want to remove dead growth where pest eggs and disease spores linger. Rake up old mulch and replace it with new material. If you have young trees, protect the tender bark from any gnawing critters by wrapping the stems or trunks with tree-guard products. Young plants are especially tempting to herbivores in winter and our yards can look like a delicatessen of delight! If you have any evergreens that are exposed or windward facing, consider setting up burlap screens or shelters around them. This is especially helpful for broad-leaved types. Finally, have a professional come in and evaluate any trees on the property, particularly ones near the home. Weak branches can become heavy with snow and cause real damage that you can prevent with removal. All of this may sound like a lot of work, and it is, but it is definitely worth the effort. If you have any questions, be sure to consult a professional who can help you get things on track. Enjoy your yard, and the holiday season!

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

John Harrison

2012-11-09 08:52:04

Q- I recently developed a love of gardening. As my fall garden is beginning to die out, I am wondering what I can do in the winter to keep busy and to keep my yard looking nice. Any ideas?

A- Just because winter is here does not mean you have to pack up the gardening tools or ideas. Actually, there is plenty to do in gardening all year, and what you do in the winter months can be the most important and exciting part of the process. First, the winter months are perfect for getting the yard in order. Consider using the time to clean up leaves and take care of any other issues such as invasive weeds. You could add borders or groundcover in appropriate places while you are not busy just tending to plants. Next, consider using the time to develop and start implementing a garden design plan. The winter months can be a great time to add elements of interest such as stepping stones or decorative features such as fountains. having them in place before spring will make it easy for any other elements to grow around them. When your garden is in full swing and yard in full bloom, it is difficult to see it in your mind as it looks in winter. This makes it hard to create a concept that looks great all year. Take pictures now and plan your garden design for next spring by looking at what you feel is missing and where. Rather than thinking flowers, think structure and texture. Find out how different trees and shrubs look in the colder months and then picture them in those places that seem lacking. When it warms up, talk to a professional about when would be good time to plant those new elements. Another option to consider is green house gardening. You could test out your skills, and incubate your own plants for spring planting. Indoor gardening is another worthwhile task. While it may have its limitations, it does feed your gardening creativity.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2012-11-07 11:10:57

Q- Having just bought a home, I am psyched about doing some home improvements and landscaping. Do you have any landscape suggestions to add long-term value to my property?

A- You may be very interested in knowing that one of the best investments you can make in landscaping is planting trees. Not only are trees very aesthetically pleasing, come in a wide range of options, and are affordable, they can help save you money. A well-designed landscape that includes trees will add value and help you reduce expenses. In summer, trees create shade and block the sun's rays from heating up the home. Along with shade, evapotranspiration (the process by which trees and plants release water vapor) can reduce surrounding air temperatures by 9 degrees F. Well-positioned trees can help reduce air conditioning cost by as much as 50%. In fall and winter, trees are an effective windbreak. Not only does it reduce the wear and tear on the home, windbreaks help you reduce fuel consumption by 25%. An interesting study by the National Renewable Laboratory notes that an 8 ft. deciduous tree costs about the same as an awning for one window, yet has far greater advantages to the home and bank account. They state that planting three trees can save you $250 in energy costs annually, reduce the consumption of water, use of pesticides, and fuel needed for maintenance. With all of those trees, you might be wondering about leaf removal. When you think about it, leaf removal is a worthwhile chore when you consider the advantages provided by the trees. Also, once collected, you can always consider using the leaves in mulch or compost.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

John Harrison

2012-10-02 15:08:05

Q- Is it ok to plant a tree in the fall?

A- Fall is the time to plant trees. There are many good shade trees to choose from. Maples and Oaks make up the majority of shade trees in our area but several other species work well also. Why is fall a good time? When you plant in the fall there is still time for the tree to root out and when spring arrives, whether it’s March or April, the tree is already planted and has a jump on the summer. That does not mean you cannot plant a tree in spring, you just have to take more care of it for it to survive the first summer. I like Maple trees because you typically get great fall color and they are faster growing. Fall color tends to be red on most varieties, but some will be orange and yellow. Sometimes if the weather is right you might get a tree to turn all three colors. Oaks are another great shade tree. A little slower growing than the maples but they tend to be a stronger tree in most instances. You do not get the color of the maples but my favorite is Northern Red Oak as it has reliable red fall color and faster growing than most Oaks. Other shade trees that work well in our area are bald cypress, sycamore, willow, and river birch. Ornamental trees for our area would be dogwood, redbud, flowering pear, flowering peach, and crab apples. With the great temperature we have been having and some rain, get out there and plant that tree you have been wanting.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2012-10-02 14:58:51

Q- Over the years, my lawn has thinned out and just does not look as lush and attractive. I fertilize it regularly and it is otherwise well maintained. Any suggestions?

A- Late summer is the time to decide what, if any, seeding work your lawn will need this year. Careful advance planning and follow-up can make the difference between seeding success and failure. Thin Lawns Can you see the soil or thatch layer when you look down at the grass? Thinness allows weeds to get started in the lawn and also causes the lawn to dry out much faster. A thin lawn should be seeded. Heavy Thatch The thatch layer can become so heavy that the primary root system is growing more in the thatch than in the soil below. Shallow, thatch-rooted lawns are much more susceptible to drought damage. Better turf variety Do you want to develop a more disease, insect or drought tolerant lawn? There are grass varieties that bugs, disease and hot weather don’t bother as much as others. These are a few of the conditions that call for seeding work. Others include repairing lawn drainage problems, and fixing worn rutted areas. Why fall is best Most don’t understand why late summer and fall are ideal to plant grass seed. Consider the following and you’ll see the sense it makes. - Seed planted late in the season has two good growing periods (fall and spring) to “harden off” before going through the drought and heat stress often associated with summer weather. - In the fall, most fast-growing weeds like crabgrass will not be sprouting and choking out the slower growing permanent grass being planted - Soil temperatures are higher in late summer which means faster germination and establishment of most grasses. - Late summer seeding need not disrupt the proper timing of weed control as spring seeding almost always does (new grass should not be treated for broadleaf weeds until after the 4th or 5th mowing).

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

John Harrison

2012-08-02 11:31:01

Q- I used to enjoy gardening until arthritis started to cause me problems. A neighbor said that there are special gardening tools that are easier on the hands. Do you know anything about these?

A- I am happy to say that it is true. Yes, there are many specialized tools on the market that will get you back in the garden. For those with physical issues and any avid gardener challenged by the physical demands of gardening can choose from a wide variety of therapeutic tools designed to ease the aches and pains that come with gardening. Tool manufacturers have responded to a common need with the development of ergonomically designed garden tools with easy to manage functions. Some of these include: • Onehanded-snips designed for persons with bending difficulties or impaired mobility. The tool neatly holds stems after cutting so flowers don't drop to the ground. • Oscillating hoes, which relieve pressure on the back, are helpful to persons with diminished strength and endurance. They work through a push and pull movement from a standing, not crouching, position. • Ratcheting pruners and loppers. It takes little pressure to cut through branches with these tools that magnify and conserve the force applied. • Long-handled pruners for persons who experience bending difficulty or mobility impairment. These longer-than-average tools promote good balance for a safe pruning experience. • Trigger-grip trowels, forks, and cultivator forks designed to aid persons with limited grasping ability or diminished strength and endurance. Many of these tools are readily available locally and by mail order. Some of the sources include Birdsall, Smith and Hawken, and Youcan Toocan. Search therapeutic tools or ask your nearest hardware store specialist for their help in locating these tools. Thank you for such a valuable question and see you in the garden!

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2012-08-02 10:27:07

Q- I am wondering if the advantages of having an irrigation system off-set the cost of installation. I am just curious before I invest in one. Thanks for your input.

A- Actually, the cost of having an irrigation system installed is not substantial and the benefits are well worth the effort. First, if you do not use an irrigation system I assume your second option to be watering by hand, so that is how we will compare the advantages. When you water by hand, more than 50 percent of the water is lost in evaporation and run-off. This is can get costly and is not good for the environment. With an irrigation system and timer, you can schedule watering during times of low evaporation and assure that the highest amount of water is getting to your garden and reduce your water costs. Another advantage is better growth from your lawn and garden. The ideal condition for growth is smaller amounts of water over a longer period of time. With irrigation, you will enjoy an evenly watered and lush landscape. Weed reduction is another offset advantage. With only the areas you want getting watered, other areas are not, which helps prevent weed growth in those areas. Also, a lush lawn helps choke out weed growth. Finally, it saves you a considerable amount of time in moving a sprinkler attached to a hose. It also frees up that commitment so you can do other things, like go on vacation, and still enjoy the advantages of a beautiful lawn.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2012-08-01 14:57:11

Q- What are my options in mulch, and why would one be used over another?

A- As we discussed last month, there are two types of mulch, organic and inorganic. Last month, we covered the options in organic mulches, such as bark, hay, and cocoa hulls and some of the value they add to your gardening. This month we will cover your options in inorganic mulches. Inorganic mulches are ones that do not break down and do not add any nutrient value to the soil. They do however, add vale to your gardening. Here are some of the options in inorganic mulches: • Crushed gravel and granite • River rock or small stones • Lava rock • Sand • Crushed brick • Crushed graded recycled glass • Landscape fabric • Plastic mulch • Shredded rubber • Aluminized mulch Even though inorganic mulches do not break down and add to the nutrients of the soil, they do have many benefits. Here are a few: • Helps plants retain water in the root zone • Helps conserve water by slowing evaporation • Maintains more even soul temperature • Protects and increases the root zone by providing temperature moderation • Prevents or inhibits the growth of weeds • Prevents or inhibits erosion • Prevents the soil from forming a hard crust • Prevents compaction • Reduces the need for pesticide and herbicide • Beautifies Inorganic mulches are long lasting but still need to be replenished every few years as they tend to work down into the soil.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

John Harrison

2012-06-21 09:38:11

Q: We just moved here and bought a home with a completely un-landscaped yard. Can you give me a few choices in trees or shrubs that work well in this area, as well as a bit about each one?

A: Many different varieties of tress grow well in this area, but I will concentrate on two of the most popular trees and one of the most popular and durable shrubs. Japanese Maples One of the trees you will see used very frequently in landscape design here is the Japanese Maple. Residents favor it for its variety, versatility, and all season beauty. You can find them in dwarf, upright, weeping, spreading, mounding, and vase. The colors are just as wide in pinks and orange and yellows, and change seasonally. This versatility makes it easy to use them in the architecture of your landscape. Each one will have specific light, soil, and water requirements so be sure to check with your landscape or nursery expert to find out the best options for your conditions. Dwarf Spruce If you love the spruce tree but are low on space, consider the Dwarf Spruce. It is like the standard size spruce, but only reaches a height of 6-12 feet tall, and that over a long period of time. Residents in the area love the Dwarf Spruce because they are able to plant them virtually anywhere, such as near buildings or in pots. The Dwarf Spruce needs minimal care but thrive in full sunlight to partial shade. Box Woods Boxwood shrubs are a great, low maintenance choice for our area. They come in many varieties, and can be grown as hedges, individually, as a topiary, and bonsai. The best time to plant Boxwood is in the spring, and pruning is best in winter. Really, you have many choices, and before you start, it would be beneficial to make a trip to the nursery, talk to an expert and take pictures of your top choices. Then you can talk to a landscape designer who can help you execute the perfect yard.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2012-06-01 11:27:22

Q: What are my options in mulch, and why would one be used over another?

A: There are an enormous amount of choices in mulch, each having its own advantage in certain applications. Let’s break it down. First, there are two basic kinds of mulch, organic- such as straw and bark, and inorganic such as rock or plastic sheeting. There are times when both organic and inorganic are used in the same application, as in putting down paper or plastic and then bark on top. What you use depends on your situation and to a large degree on your personal preference. Let’s cover some of the basics on organic mulches first. Most people prefer organic mulches because of the affordability and the attractiveness. Another advantage is that over time, organic mulches decompose and add nutrients to the soil. Some of the disadvantages include (in some cases) attracting bugs, harboring pests, and upsetting the pH balance of your soil as it decomposes. The most popular choices in mulch include shredded hardwood or pine bark. As a rule, the shredded bark is generally more expensive than bark. Getting an even or thin spread is much easier with the shredded hardwood than with chunks of bark. Although a bit costly, cedar bark is a prime choice as it smells wonderful and repels pests such as termites. For this reason, cedar is a good choice for application near structures. Other choices include: • Shredded leaf • Grass clippings • Straw • Hay • Compost mulch • Cocoa Hulls These choices are less preferable as most of them may actually carry weed seeds. Cocoa hulls, while beautiful and exotic, may be poisonous to dogs and cats if ingested. Before you choose an organic mulch, be sure you find out the advantages or disadvantages to the soil. As the mulch breaks down, it will change the chemical make up of the soil that may affect the growth of certain plants and flowers.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

John Harrison

2012-06-01 11:13:40

Q: We are in the middle of redoing our yard and I want to add some seasonal color .What are the best plants and flowers for the season?

A: You have many choices, but there are a few choices that will give you color longer as they last longer in the season. Here is a short list of some of the most popular: • Tropical Hibiscus are great and can take the heat. They also come in a wide range of vibrant colors. • Purslane are a blooming succulent. They do well in hanging baskets and are very drought tolerant. • Sweet Potato vine is just what it sounds like. It comes in several colors with Chartreuse being the most popular. It grows like a weed and needs very little care. If you want something that will live for several years or more, perennials are a great choice. A few Perennials that bloom in summer are Daylily, Daisies, Russian Sage, Gaillardia, and Helens Flower. You also have some wonderful choices in shrubs that flower in summer. These include: • Roses are surprisingly hearty and heat tolerant. They come in a vast array of varieties and colors. • Crape Mrytle, which comes in a huge selection of varieties from trees to dwarf sizes, are also an excellent choice for durability. • Rose of Sharon, a deciduous flowering shrub, makes a great summer time hedge, • Hydrangea, which comes in 23 species, has several varieties that are perfect for adding color and withstanding the warm temperatures.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2012-04-20 11:03:19

Q: So I’ve tried everything on my lawn, including working it up and re-planting seed. Nothing seems to work, it is patchy, the only thing that grows well are weeds and in some spots, grass won’t grow at all. What gives?

A: Any number of factors, or all of them could be causing this problem. While we often take a plush, green lawn and how it got (and stays) that way for granted, horticulture is actually a complex science. When one thing is out of balance, it causes a chain of events, all of which can affect your lawn. The first and most important step in solving the problem is identifying the cause or causes. Thin and patchy grass could be a sign of these things: 1. Ground is too compacted 2. Over fertilized 3. Under fertilized 4. Uneven application of weed killer 5. Disease/pests 6. Improper watering 7. Excessive foot traffic 8. Improper mowing A pest problem is least likely in patchy lawn problems. In most cases, there are a number of contributing factors. It could also be that the ground is uneven so some areas would receive more water, fertilizer and weed killer, while other areas little. This would cause some areas to thrive or burn. Most people will try fertilizing and over seeding the patchy areas. That’s not necessarily the answer. In most cases, the grass will sprout but will die off before it is mature. This is because the initial cause was never solved. In some lawn situations, the best resort is to get professional advice. Since the problem is persistent the causes are probably many and with the amount of time, money and sweat you’ve already put in, it will cost much less in the long run to have it done right. Professional weeding and fertilizing applications throughout the summer will help get your base, and we may have to re-planted correctly in the fall. Don’t get discouraged, with the right help you can get your lawn on track and beautiful in no time.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

John Harrison

2012-04-20 09:19:27

Q: I am hearing from a lot of people who had plants that died last summer or even over the winter. In a lot of these cases they were established plants.

A: Last summer was the second hottest summer we’ve had here locally on record I believe. Even worse, we had an unbelievable number of days well over 100 degrees. The number of days over 100 degrees really puts a lot of plants in stress. When a plant goes into stress you may be able to see the damage, for example a lot of yews and arborvitae turned brown on the tops or west side of the plants. This damage was easy to spot and happened while it was still very hot. In some cases you couldn’t tell until recently some trees have not re-leafed out this spring. We really didn’t have a winter and it wasn’t the winter but actually the summer that killed the tree. The stress from the heat weakens the trees and then bugs, viruses, and fungus can more easily attack the tree. You cannot always see the damage when it happens, but when we have extreme weather plants suffer just like people. My advice to gardeners is this, all plants have a weakness; it might not like a dry spot or maybe it needs a sunny spot. There is no prefect plant and when you have weather that is very extreme like too dry, or too wet, really cold, or too hot you are going to loose some plants. Find a tree or shrub you like. Then find out if they do well in our area. After planting it, provide it with some TLC and hope for average or less extreme weather.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2012-03-27 10:26:28

Q: I have always dreamed of having dramatic landscaping, as you would see in Europe. This year I want to begin making that happen. I just bought a new home and the yard is a completely fresh pallet, ready for something beautiful. Could you provide your best tips? What should I consider? Thanks in advance for your help.

A: Landscaping design is much more than just a beautiful lawn and a few trees and shrubs. True landscaping design sets itself apart not by the drama of the ornaments of the design, but the way it pays homage to the architecture of the home, highlights the most subtle features, and how it leads and draws people from the curb to the front door. As you think about your design, here are a few of the things that will help you add professional flair: 1. Plan your parking and transit areas first so that they both become part of your picture, rather than just a spot carved into an otherwise beautiful design. 2. Think of your design as transitioning from public to private space. 3. The style of the entry space should reflect the home architecture, whether it is contemporary or traditional. 4. Remember to consider flow space and design it so that it will create the most enjoyment, whether you want quiet alcoves hiding hidden enjoyments like garden sculptures, or you want a dramatic fountain as the centerpiece. 5. Create dimension and add layers of interest. No element should have to carry the load of interest alone. Let your eyes scan the design from top to bottom and make sure that there is something there that adds interest, texture, and color. 6. Professional landscapers think function as well as beauty, and you should too. Lighting should highlight pathways, but can also add evening drama to the nightscape. Benches add solidity, texture, and visual appeal as well as places to sit and enjoy the space. 7. Consider how your design will look as you pass through the seasons and what you will need to do to maintain the beauty. Designing the perfect landscape takes time, and knowledge. Be sure to read up on the subject and get advice from landscape professions as it can save you time and money. Congratulations on your home, and may your yard bring you much joy!

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

John Harrison

2012-03-23 10:57:04

Q: It seems that no matter what I plant in my yard I really do not see the results I was expecting. I am not sure if I am choosing the right plants or not but generally go with whatever is out at big box retailers. Can you help me out?

A: Sure! First, you need to know that your problem is quite common, and actually begins with a common mistake most people make—believing that it is time to plant everything that is displayed at big box retailers because they are already “for sale” there. This is not necessarily the case (particularly in flowers). You need to remember that big box retailer buy from suppliers. Those suppliers must meet the demands on time and all plant material must fit certain containers and shelves for transport, storage and display. They also must be ready for display ahead of need. All of this means that some of what you see for sale may be ahead of the season. Rather than use what is for sale as you guide in what to plant, do a little research before you buy and you will likely get much better results. Right now, it is the best time to plant trees and shrubs. Here are some that do exceptionally well in our area: Trees Redbud (15’ x 15’ yellow leaf, red leaf varieties, some bloom white, purple, etc) , Crabapple (Lots of different colors - white, pink, red, generally 15’ x 15’) Shade trees Red Maple (40’ – 60’ several different varieties) The Red Maple is generally the most popular shade tree. Pin Oak (Native oak) Northern Red Oak (grows a bit faster than the Pin Oak, better fall color). Shrubs All shrub types are generally good and will last in Kansas weather. Here are a couple of new ones that do well: -Dwarf Quince (Double Take): (stays shorter and has big double flowers and are drought tolerant!) New --Bloomerang Lilac - Drought tolerant (smell good flower, grows to about 4 ft x 4 ft.). - Drift Roses (very short, 18 inches tall) – generally found in the front of landscape beds. - Reblooming Azaela – Encore and Bloomathon: Generally found in the back of the landscape bed for design, color, etc. Happy landscaping!

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

John Harrison

2012-02-28 12:38:36

Q: I want to get my yard in order and prepared for the season. When is the best time to trim and how far back? Also, what should I do now to prepare for a spring garden?

A: You asked a timely question because now is the time to trim some shrubs and trees and get your vegetable garden ready. The rule of thumb on trimming is: if it blooms in late summer or fall you can trim it now and it will not affect the blooms. You trim spring blooming shrubs and trees right after they get done blooming or you will not get blooms. Evergreen shrubs and trees except for pines (trim in July) you can trim now and again in summer if needed. How far can you trim back? Well, it depends on the plant. Most evergreens you do not want to trim down past the evergreen part. Most deciduous shrubs and trees do not need trimmed more than a 1/3 of the plant. Preparing your garden To get your garden ready for spring planting, you will want to start by tilling and getting the soil ready. One easy way to get the ground prepared is to put down two inches of compost (chewed up leaves work well) then another two inches of peat moss, and then two inches of topsoil. Mix really well and you have a very good start for your vegetable garden. Vegetables you can plant in March include lettuce, radishes, broccoli, cauliflower, onions, and potatoes.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2012-02-28 09:43:07

Q: I’ve heard there are chemicals that are crucial to the development of your lawn during the spring. What chemicals are they and is it really “crucial” for a nice lawn?

A: As spring approaches, lawn and lawn care season is in full tilt. If good weed control is desired, pre-emergent chemicals are, in fact, critical in the spring. They stop germination of crabgrass and other weeds. Crabgrass can quickly and easily take over a lawn, making attacking the problem at the germination stage very, very important. The timing of when this is done is also crucial. Get the chemicals down early enough to stop the germination but not so early that it is ineffective. Crabgrass seed, for example, germinates when spring soil temperatures reach upwards from 50 degrees F. Weed scientists use 52 degrees F. at one-half inch deep as the trigger point for their application of pre-emergence herbicide. Most of the time, mid March is the ideal time to use the pre-emergent weed control chemicals although the best timing can vary by the type of chemical used. Some choices include pendimethalin which is of the old chemical technology and should be applied by March 15th and doesn’t control as many weeds. Prodiamine which is based from newer technology is good but needs to be down before April 1st and will keep most grassy weeds and some broadleaf weeds from germinating. One of the newest technologically advanced chemicals is Dithiopyr which can be applied all the way to May 1st but will only kill the germination of grassy weeds like crabgrass. You have a larger window to get it applied and it will also kill crabgrass all the way up to the 2nd leaf stage. This means it has some early post emergent control. Keep in mind the more rain we have in the spring the shorter of time these chemicals will last. If you are concerned about getting the timing right or which chemical is best for your lawn, it is good to talk to a lawn specialist who can guide you in what is best. It’s that time of year again; make sure you time it just right, giving you that perfect head start for a plush, dark green and full yard this year! More next month.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2011-11-21 12:13:03

Q: I’ve heard that winter tree care changes, depending on the how mild or harsh the weather. What should I consider in winter tree care?

A: No matter how mild or harsh the weather, winter can take a toll on your trees. Storms, ice, and temperature fluctuations are all a consideration. While you have little control over the weather, of course, you can protect your trees from both being damaged and causing it. The most important thing to do is to evaluate each tree for damage. Look for dead branches or limbs and areas of fungus. Check to see if the tree is well grounded. If any of these problems exist, you should address the problem immediately. Damaged limbs should be removed as soon as they come to your attention. Harsh winds, rain, snow, frost, or just sudden temperature changes can cause the limbs to break. This can be a potential hazard to both people and property. If the tree seems unstable, consider tie downs to keep it in place. It is also a good idea to have your trees evaluated by a professional. A tree may look healthy to all but those most familiar with them and taking the time to have a professional out may save you a lot of money in tress that do not survive or the damage they may end up causing. In most cases, it is a good idea to have your trees trimmed back after they have entered dormancy so that they are better equipped to withstand the weight of snow. You’ll also want to give trees a good long drink. Trees can experience a “winter drought” when they loose more water than they can absorb from the ground. To prevent this, give them a long slow drink then help the ground retain the water and moderate the temperature by adding a ring of mulch around the tree, being careful not to go all the way up to the trunk.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2011-09-29 14:17:35

Q: We have a yard that is pretty much a clean slate. We have grass but that is all that is out there. It is time that we invest in making the yard beautiful but the question is- do we do it on our own or just hire a professional? I have to confess, our experience is minimal and we’d be relying on the nursery to help in our selections.

A: Many homeowners are faced with the same question and the answer will be based on a few important factors that will help decide what is best for you. First, how much time do you have and is it enough to devote to an installation project and ongoing maintenance? Often times we fail to realize the scope of the work involved and the project ends up taking longer than we expected. If you have plenty of weekend time, or do not mind having an extended project on your schedule, then DIY is for you. On the other hand, if you need it done quickly or if yard work is a weekly chore that you find you must force yourself to do, then hiring a professional is your best bet. Next, consider the purpose of your landscape. Is it something that is purely for your own enjoyment or is a purposeful effort to add value and curb appeal to your home? Here are a few options: • Tackle the project on your own • Have a landscape architect design a plan which you follow • Have a landscape architect design and implement the plan The last and perhaps the most significant consideration is how do you want to allocate your budget. A common mistake that the average homeowner often makes in landscaping is over buying and impulse buying rather than planning. Just because a plant looks pretty and is in full bloom does not mean that it is the best for your yard. Without a good design in hand when you purchase landscaping materials, you can easily spend on unsuitable materials or buy too much. The key to developing a successful landscape is to know your needs, evaluate your resources and call in help when you need it.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2011-07-01 08:19:00

Question: We just installed new turf. How established should it be before I begin to mow? Also, thereafter, does the frequency of mowing impact the lawn, other than just looking raggedy if it gets too long?

Answer: In answering your first question, it really depends on if you laid sod down, or if you seeded the lawn. With sod, it is already conditioned to mowing and you should not have any trouble mowing it as soon as it starts to look healthy. If you seeded your lawn, you need to remember that the shoots (new growth from seed germination that grows upward) are much more delicate and you should wait until the area is fully established. Once your lawn is established, developing a regular mowing schedule is very beneficial to its appearance. In fact, how often you mow and how high you keep your lawn is key to the development of a top quality lawn. As a general rule, it best to keep ornamental lawns should be 0.75cm in early spring, fall and winter and 0.3-0.5cm mid-spring and summer. Utility lawns should be higher and kept between 2-2.5cm in spring and summer and 3-4cm the rest of the year. Here are some things to consider: •The roots will not receive adequate food if you mow too short •If you bag your grass, mow when the grass is dry, as it weighs more in the bag which weighs down the mower and can cause damage to the lawn. Occasionally, bagging grass has its benefits but the grass clippings also contain great nutrients for the growth of your lawn (this is a whole other topic for a different day)! •Waiting too long to mow allows weeds to establish •Mowing regularly helps stimulate shoot development The frequency with which you mow will depend on the type of grass, weather conditions and watering patterns. If you follow these simple rules of thumb, you should be on the right track for a fabulous lawn that is easy to maintain.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2011-06-01 11:08:00

Question: We are completely redoing our landscaping and want it to be right for our needs. One of the biggest concerns is that everything will have to be both attractive and hearty. This is particularly true for the lawn. We have four rowdy boys that use it for football, soccer and other activities. What types of grass hold up best to brothers of destruction?

Answer: It sounds like you need something just short of Astroturf as far as durability! Fortunately, there are many types of grasses that hold up well under challenging conditions. The first thing you need to know is that grass types are divided into two groups, Cool-Season, which prefer winters that are mild and wet to frigid and snowy, or Warm-Season, which prefers winters that are mild and hot or dry summers. For Cool-Season grasses, here are the most hearty and durable choices: •Kentucky Bluegrass- This grass is the most common cool season grass. Although it does not like extremely shady areas, it takes the heat and cold well and is perfect for high traffic lawns. •Perennial Ryegrass- This type of grass can take a beating, and takes the cold and heat as long as it is not too extreme. It is great for over seeding and using in combination with other grasses. •Tall Fescue- Tall Fescue is another great choice. This grass is not fussy about soil types and will grow well in full sun or shade. It holds up under tough conditions and temperature variations. Warm-Season Grasses: •Bermuda grass- Bermuda is going to hold up the best under high traffic. As a matter of fact a lot of football fields and other athletic fields have Bermuda on them for durability. •Buffalograss- This grass is known for its warm season heartiness, but has excellent winter hardiness as well. It grows well in most soil types with the exception of sand based soils. •Zoysiagrass- Zoysiagrasses are among the most wear tolerant turf grasses. It takes the heat and cold well and it can take a lot of traffic. However, it does like well-drained soil. The most popular and well growing grasses in Kansas consist of cool-season grasses with Tall Fescue ranking highest. Once you start investigating, you will find that there are so many types of grasses that it can be overwhelming. A lawn care professional can help you sort out the differences, determine your soil type and choose the one that will hold up best under your particular conditions.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2011-05-01 10:46:00

Question: We are planning on selling our home soon and are trying to decide how to spend our budget getting it ready to sell. What are the advantages to investing in updating landscaping and can it add real value to the home?

Answer: Think of landscaping as part of the packaging of your home. It has the potential to either capture a buyer’s interest or turn them away before they even see the rest of the home by highlighting and framing the home’s architecture and creating a peaceful and inviting entry. Whether you are selling a home, or just want to improve your curb appeal, landscaping should be a consideration. In fact, it surprises many people just how much of an impact landscaping can have on the value of your home. Consider these statistics: •Professional landscaping can increase the value of a home by 14% •A landscaped patio can increase the value of the home by 12.4% •A landscaped curb can increase the value of a home by 4% •The time it takes to sell a home can be decreased by 6 weeks with attractive landscaping Many people, like you, wonder how much should be invested on landscaping. A good rule of thumb is 5% of the home’s value should be invested in lawn design and architecture which can raise your home’s value by as much as 15%. A professionally designed, prepared, installed and maintained landscape using quality plant material is not only a great investment, it is also has an intrinsic value of improving quality of life.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2011-03-01 14:39:00

Question: I am looking to finally make my yard and landscape look great this year. Do you have any ideas on creating a great look?

Answer: There are lots of ways to add interest to your landscape without having to invest too much effort. Just remember that what you do will reflect on the overall appearance of your home and your personality. So putting together a creative plan, without pasting together those “quick fixes” will pay off and create a beautiful home, envious of your entire neighborhood! One of the best places to start is to make the most of your lawn. Green it up using a good weed and feed can make a world of difference. You can have the best landscape in the world, but if your lawn is not a thick, healthy green, you’re missing out on the most important part. Be sure to follow the instructions on the package or ask a professional, as using too much of some products can burn your lawn and do the opposite of what you envision. Using garden edging is another way to create some drama and make your yard design “pop.” There are many different types of edging, and ways to use them. Choose something that will not only highlight the yard, but compliment the home structure. Depending on the style you want to achieve you might want to choose certain materials and techniques over others. For example, cement can give a more modern look and brick can be used to create a more traditional look. Stone and brick are the easiest materials for homeowners to work with on their own. Home improvement stores will have many books on the techniques you can use to achieve certain patterns and styles. It is also possible to give your landscape an updated look without having to make drastic changes simply by adding some plants or trees native to the area. Native plants usually require less care and are more likely to survive the climate. Talk to a landscape design expert or nursery about which plants are native and choose ones that will add shape and color to your overall design. Choosing plants and grasses known to do well in an area also allows for better control of unwanted pest plants and weeds, which also makes your landscape design more beautiful. Be sure to plant everything correctly, not planting a tree to the correct depth or distance from the home will kill the tree and your investment.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Justin Cawyer

2011-03-01 10:15:00

Question: While the snow has been a hassle, I know the time is just around the corner and Spring is near. What is the best way I can get and keep my lawn up to par this spring?

Answer: With the recent weather, it is hard to believe spring is so near, and yet it is, making this the best time to think about your lawn care. Getting and maintaining a healthy green lawn is the holy grail of homeowners everywhere and weeds are the common curse. Early spring is the time to think seriously about weed control, when weeds are small and have not gained a stubborn foothold. For example, once the temperature has reached 55 degrees for several consecutive days, the germination of crabgrass has already begun. Anyone who has had a problem with crabgrass knows how difficult it is to combat once it takes hold of a lawn. There are numerous products on the market to help kill weeds but it is important to know how to use them properly or you risk damaging your entire lawn. Pre-emergent herbicides kill weeds before they have a chance to germinate, but also prevent grass seed from germinating for some time. Other herbicides are also effective if weeds have already sprouted. The length of the grass and watering periods also play a role in eradicating weeds. Fertilizing your lawn is another largely important spring time consideration. Fertilizer is one of the most important lawn maintenance practices that not only affects the general health of the lawn, but also another factor in weed control. The healthier the lawn is, the better the turf grass stands to compete and tolerate pests like weeds, disease and insects. A high quality, dense turf will overcome weeds and decrease or even eliminate the need for herbicides.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Nazir Jesri

2009-10-01 15:50:00

Question: What are the benefits of online auctions?

Answer: An online auction is a dynamic pricing environment. There are advantages for purchasers and suppliers: The process is open and builds mutual trust. As it is a transparent process, under/over pricing is less likely. Buyers and sellers have access to global markets, irrespective of their location. Participants have to specify their requirements very precisely. Forward auctions offer effective mechanisms for offloading excess stock or capacity. Bidders in these auctions can source non-critical goods cheaply. Reverse auctions generally result in quicker and cheaper procurement. Well-managed auctions significantly reduce the time between the issuing and awarding of contracts. Forward auctions 1. For the auction holders Many types of business supply goods through online auctions. Retailers, distributors, manufacturers and liquidators all benefit in different ways. Forward auctions can help them to: acquire new customers and extend geographic reach; test new products and establish price points; dispose of excess inventory quickly ; price according to demand and stock levels; and reduce sales costs by minimizing marketing spend. 2. For bidders: Buying through forward auctions reduces procurement costs. Businesses can use them to: source non-critical supplies, like stationery and office furniture; acquire specialist, second-hand equipment inexpensively; and reduce the time spent on procurement by setting up automated searches and bid alerts. Reverse auctions Reverse auctions are increasing in importance. 1. For the auction holder The mechanism favours buying power - the bigger the business, the better the saving. The auction mechanism replaces time-intensive negotiations with suppliers. Procurement departments save time sourcing and negotiating with suppliers. Materials can be sourced from a larger pool of suppliers. Cost reductions can be significant: 10%+ cost savings are frequently reported. 2. For suppliers Reverse auctions aren’t just a popular cost-cutting option for large businesses. They are popular with major customers who have large budgets. Competing on price isn’t the only way to win business - factors like service, quality and reliability can count in your favour. You gain access to customers who are ready to buy quickly, without having to launch a sales campaign. Bidding aggressively can be a quick way to offload stock or build market share. Even unsuccessful bidders gain valuable market information. This information based on Crown Copyright 2003

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Nazir Jesri

2009-10-01 09:07:00

Question: We’ve spent a lot of time and money with plants/flowers and other vegetation, but it just doesn’t seem complete. Do you have any suggestions?

Answer: You say that your landscaping is complete? Then show me your stones! That’s right, landscaping stones. The artful application of landscaping stone could enhance the natural elements that you’ve already employed -- namely, your plants, or softscape. And the aesthetic and functional use of stone can even raise the value of your property. You tend to your trees and lawn, and you lavish your vegetable plants with attention. Why, your posies even get to rest their pretty little heads on something we dub “flower beds.” With all this attention to the animate denizens of the landscape, don’t forget their inanimate counterparts, which include soil and stone. For the latter are the canvas and frame, respectively, for the art of landscaping. Without proper soil, of course, plants will not grow well; no amount of artistry will make up for a flawed canvas. And without the skillful arrangement of stone and other hardscape components, the most artistic of landscapes would lack a frame to set it off tastefully. For many, a boulder at a driveway entrance, with their name/address painted on it or chiseled into it, will suffice. But the possibilities are limited only by the time you wish to spend on your hardscape -- or by the money you are willing to pay professionals to do it for you. For some hardscape projects, you will need to combine your landscaping stone with mortar -- or perhaps use concrete, brick, or tile, instead of stone. These and other variations must be considered when taking on one of the most popular hardscape projects -- building a patio. Whether composed of concrete, stone, or some other hardscape material, patios are a wonderful way to tie the indoors the outdoors, thereby uniting house and landscape effectively and creating outdoor living spaces. In regions plagued by drought, or for homeowners who want a low-maintenance landscape, an interesting alternative to lawns is the extended patio, which is simply an enlarged patio that takes up space where lawn grass would otherwise be planted. The use of stone includes, but is not limited to: • Stone fountains • Patio floors/walls • Paths, including garden stepping stone walkways • Walls for a cold frame • Columns to support car ports • Pergola columns • Foundations for gazebos and other outbuildings (obtain a building permit) • Stone outbuildings in lieu of wooden outdoor storage sheds • Foundations for porches and decks • Accent pieces for water gardens and, of course, rock gardens • Stone walls...

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Nazir Jesri

2009-09-01 14:47:00

Question: There are so many different types of stone used for landscaping. Can you help to determine which ones might be best for the weather here in the Midwest?

Answer: Landscaping a residence is like grooming your home. It makes your home aesthetically pleasing and a personal place for you and your family to relax. It is much more than adding lots of flowers and shrubs. Steps, terracing, patio decking, fences, brickwork, lighting and sleepers are some of the value added landscape features. Natural stone remains the most desired choice of materials for landscaping architects worldwide. Such stones used for landscaping are called landscaping stones. With the extensive array of landscaping stones, more fulfilling ways are coming in to enhance your home’s beauty. Stones like granite, limestone, marble; slate and sandstone are most widely used stones for landscaping, and most will work fine for the climate here in Kansas with the exception of some soft limestone. Types of Stones Used for Landscaping Sandstone Landscaping: The most common colors of sandstone used for landscaping are buff, brown, blue and pink. They are usually used for making walls and patios Slate Landscaping: The common colors used for landscaping are earth tone, blue, brown and red. These stones are very strong and resistant to water. Marble Landscaping: These are fine grained. The common shades are pink, white, black, yellow and brown. These stones are strong and have high water absorption. They are used mostly as slabs for walls and for paving. Limestone Landscaping: These stones have very high water absorption. They are used for walls and the common shades are grey, cream, white and buff. Granite Landscaping: These are fine to medium-course grained and are very strong. They are used for walls and stepping stones. The common shades are black, brown pink and red.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Nazir Jesri

2009-09-01 14:47:00

Question: I’m still a little weary of online auctions, can you please give me some basic information to get started?

Answer: Internet auction sites give buyers a “virtual” flea market with new and used merchandise from around the world; they give sellers a global storefront from which to market their goods. Whether you’re a buyer or a seller, understanding how Internet auctions work can help you avoid most problems. How Internet Auctions Work Rules of the Marketplace Role of the Auction Site. Most Internet auction sites specialize in person-to-person activity where individual sellers or small businesses sell their items directly to consumers. In these auctions, the seller not the site has the merchandise, and often, the site will not take responsibility for any problems that may arise between buyers and sellers. Before using an Internet auction site for the first time, buyers and sellers should read the Terms of Use, and review any information the site offers. Registration. Most Internet auction sites require buyers and sellers to register and obtain a “user account name” (or “screen name”) and password before they can make bids or place items for bid. Keep your password to yourself. If you share it, another person could access your account and buy or sell items without your knowledge. That could damage your online reputation and eventually, your bank account. Fees. Some sites require sellers to agree to pay a fee every time they conduct an auction, whether the item is sold or not. Other sites charge a fee only when an item is sold. The Auction. Many sellers set a time limit on bidding and, in some cases, a “reserve price” the lowest price they will accept for an item. When the bidding closes at the scheduled time, the item is sold to the highest bidder. If no one bids at or above the reserve price, the auction closes without the item being sold. Some auction sites allow sellers to set a price at which a buyer can purchase the item without competing with other bidders. A buyer can choose to purchase the item for the price the seller has set, without bidding. After the Auction: Arranging to Pay and Deliver Merchandise. At the end of a successful auction, the buyer and seller communicate usually by e-mail to arrange for payment and delivery.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Nazir Jesri

2009-08-01 13:52:00

Question: I know online auctions are becoming more and more popular; I’m still a little leery. Do you have any tips?

Answer: Online auctions are a great way to purchase items these days. Sites such as eBay, UBid, and many others can help you find that perfect product you are looking for. Just remember not everything you buy is top quality, nor is everyone who sells ethical. Before actually bidding on an item, there are few things you should know. Know what you are bidding on, and what its value really is. If it is an item seen in retail stores, make sure the price is reasonable, especially if you are going to be paying shipping. Make note of whether the item in question is a new, reconditioned or used product. This will help you come up with your maximum price. Check other online auction sites before placing a bid. Sometimes professional auctioneers will list the same item on multiple sites, and if those sites are not as popular as eBay you may get a lower price for the same exact item. Often there are fewer bidders as well at these sites, which will give you a greater probability of getting your item at a lower price. Check if the item comes with a warranty or as is. If as is, you will need to go through the manufacturer even if it is a brand new product. Inspect the item in person if possible. You can save on shipping if you are buying from a local auction company where you pick up your items. Understand the payment options. Some merchants only accept certain types of payments, such as PayPal. Others accept credit cards, checks, money orders, etc. You need to make sure that you are able to pay with the proper method of payment. If you win a bid and cannot pay, this can result in your auction account being cancelled. Read the product description thoroughly. If there isn’t quite enough information for you, contact the seller. They should be happy to give you more information if you request it. You are spending money, so get all the info Know what your maximum price is for the item, and stick to it. Do not get into a bidding war, as you will end up paying much more than you should. Also take into account what the shipping cost is when calculating your maximum bid. Most sellers have the shipping cost in the product description, or will provide a UPS or USPS calculator for you to calculate shipping. Take note of when the auction starts and ends. Also note the shipping time (which most sellers note for you). This way you can decide if the time it will take for you to actually receive the item is acceptable for you to place a bid. Don’t be afraid to bid early. Putting in a bid will show others that you are interested in an item, enough to ‘stake your claim’, but don’t bid your maximum right away. This may make bidders who have a lower maximum bid move on to another listing of this item which has no bids. Keep checking on your bid. Many auction sites have an option to do automatic bidding (proxy bidding) for you up to your maximum, however there are advantages to doing it manually. You can watch a bid right near where it ends and put in your bids to grab the item. Some bidders may not be paying attention to when the auction ends, or may have reached their maximum already. You can also invest in auction software called ‘sniping’ software. This automates the bidding for you in the last 5 minutes of an auction to get in the very last bid. Of course, others who use this type of software can make bidding frustrating for you!

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Nazir Jesri

2009-08-01 13:52:00

Question: When it comes to landscaping I see more people using stone or rock, can you tell me what some of the advantages are?

Answer: Natural stone is becoming a popular choice for landscaping in yards across the country. There are several benefits of adding stone paving to the scheme and theme of a particular design. By adding natural stone, any homeowner can turn an ordinary backyard into a beautiful oasis, an escape from the average, and increase the value of their home by creating additional outdoor living space. Natural stone is so beautiful. There are hundreds of choices when it comes to what kind of stone you can choose to add to your backyard landscape, with design elements that include shape, layout and construction. A natural stone walkway leading through the grass to a flagstone patio can turn an unused and overlooked corner of the backyard into a peaceful sanctuary for reading, gathering and conversation. Most natural stone is more durable then wood decks, that need to be re-stained, and rebuilt, patio stone is durable and built to last a lifetime. In addition a stone patio can create virtually unlimited choices in shape, design and layout that may not be possible with other types of decking. Flagstone patios bring families together. Many people spend way to much time in front of their televisions every night and ignore the people on the couch next to them. Picture this; an outdoor gathering space with a comfortable table resting on stone and tiki torches on every corner this becomes a great place for family fun and games. Turn off the television and get to know your family out on the patio. Stone recaptures lost space through versatility. No family uses one hundred percent of their yard space. Through proper design and construction, a stone patio can recapture places that get little use and turn them into different types of activity spots for the family. A patio for the family to gather, a shady spot under the tree for reading, a platform next to a sandbox for the kids to play, or just a simple walkway through a small garden, natural stones are versatile and practical. As more and more people look for additional living space in their homes, they are turning to the outdoors and building both covered and uncovered areas to add to the usable square footage. When it is time to sell the home, potential home buyers can look at the outdoor space as additional room, and while you can’t add patio size to the total square footage of the home, home buyers won’t overlook the huge stone paving deck that creates a space the size of the living room under the sun. A carefully constructed area using selected natural stone can increase the perceived value of the home and add to the selling price. So adding a flagstone patio to the backyard is not only an investment in time spent together as a family, it’s also an investment in the total value of the home. Natural stone is beautiful, durable, versatile and practical with dozens of applications all of which can increase a home’s value.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Steve Appel

2009-04-01 14:39:00

Question: You’ve talked about lawn and garden tractors, but I need something that will do more, maybe a small utility tractor. Can you please advise?

Answer: With the exception of tractor-pulls and wagon-hauling, tractors are not much use by themselves. If you want to mow, you need a mower. To clip pastures and meadows, you need a brush hog (rotary cutter) mower. To haul manure and stones, you need a loader. To pull fence posts, lift logs, or hold a hog over a scalding drum, you need a lift or crane. Can you see where I’m going with this, the list is endless: spreaders, blades, plows, discs, cultivators, rotary tillers, posthole diggers, sprayers, etc. If you have specialized needs, there are tractor-driven or tractor-pulled accessories to solve the problem. Fortunately, you don’t always need the perfect implement to get a job done. A brush hog is ideal for clipping pastures; it also does a decent job of mulching orchard clippings. A post hole auger is designed to dig holes; it can also be adapted as a boom crane. A loader is perfect for handling manure; it can also plow the snow off your driveway, re-grade the gravel, and haul brush, stones, or firewood. If you had a lot of driveways to plow, you might want a blade instead; if you had lots of gravel or dirt to grade you might want a box scraper; but the loader will do it. The trick is to select versatile implements, with the emphasis on the jobs that are most important on your place. Once you know which implements you will need, you can pick a tractor to pull them. Whether you go for one versatile tractor, or a collection of specialized tractors, the machine has to be sized for the job. Here it is important to distinguish between different kinds of work. Ground-engaging work, pulling implements that dig or cut into the earth, like a plow or a disc, makes the biggest demands on a tractor. To pull a plow you need horsepower, ground clearance, and traction. Some garden tractors include ground-engaging tools, like miniature moldboard plows, among their available implements, but a plow pulled by a garden tractor, no matter what the horsepower, does more scratching than turning of the earth. Implements all have to be hitched onto the tractor, which for most tractors larger than a lawn tractor means a three-point hitch. The standardized three-point hitches, in sizes from category “0” for garden tractors to category “3” for agricultural behemoths, evolved to remedy the mutual incompatibility of implements and tractors from different manufacturers. Implements which fit a three-point hitch are fastened by lynch pins to three arms, two hydraulically (or in some very small tractors, mechanically) controlled lower arms, and a free-pivoting upper arm, or top link. One of the lower arms can be adjusted to level the implements from side to side, and the length of the top link can be adjusted to level the implements from front to rear. Depending upon the vertical distance between the attachment points of the lower arms and the top link, the implement will either be lifted almost vertically by the rockshaft control, or will be tilted back, toward the tractor, as it is lifted. It takes about five minutes to hook an implement to a tractor with a three-point hitch. Choosing a tractor is like choosing a computer. With a computer, you decide what you want it for, select the software you will need, then choose a machine that will run that software. With a tractor, it makes sense to start with a list of what jobs have to get done, how often they need to be done, and how much tractor time they will take. Some jobs may be important enough to demand a dedicated implement. Others may be so occasional that you can rent equipment to do the job, or adapt implements that are less than ideal. Once you have a list of the implements that you need, figure out how big a tractor you need to use those implements on your place. The trick in compiling a list is to put down the jobs that need to get done on your place, rather than the jobs that you fantasize by the fireside on winter nights. If you are sure that in a year or two you are going to plant six acres of corn on what is now a second-growth meadow, you may want a tractor big enough to pull a two-bottom plow. But if you buy a tractor too big or too unwieldy to pull a mower over the acre of lawn that has to be mowed every week, you may find that the tractor doesn’t get much use, and that you need a riding mower in addition to the behemoth. It is just as much a mistake to expect too much of a small tractor. You can buy plows and disc harrows and front loaders and even backhoes for garden tractors, but a garden tractor is primarily a lawn mowing machine. It will do a dandy job of mowing, pulling small carts, and plowing the snow off a driveway; once the land has been broken by a larger machine, a garden tractor with a rotary tiller will do a fine job of cultivating a large garden plot. But it cannot substitute for a general purpose or utility tractor for hauling, clipping overgrown brush, or heavy tillage. A final consideration may influence your choice of a tractor. One of the pleasures of country living is the easy swap of tools and “custom” work. If one of your neighbors has a posthole auger that would be just right for fencing your meadow, that’s not a bad reason to buy a tractor with a hitch and PTO that will fit the auger, especially if you also buy that lime spreader that is just what both of you need to renovate your pastures.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Steve Appel

2009-03-01 14:14:00

Question: I have a fairly large area to mow this year, and I’m thinking of a riding lawn mower, any tips you could provide before I start this endeavor?

Answer: For homeowners with lawns who are overwhelmed doing regular lawn mowing with a push mower (or if you’re just tired of pushing), it’s time to consider a lawn or garden tractor. These lawn machines can make quick work of your regular lawn mowing. Some lawn tractor models even offer uses that go beyond simple grass cutting. Lawn mowing tractors come in different horsepower and sizes of cut. Here are a few simple criteria for determining what size tractor you need. Size of lawn can help determine which size lawn tractor you may need Make sure you get the right tractor for your lawn size. •1/2 to 1 acre — For a lawn this size, you’ll want a riding lawn mower with a cutting width of up to 42” . •1 to 2 acres — For yards in this size range, a riding lawn mower with a 42” or 48” deck •3 Acres or more — If your estate is in this extra large lawn grouping, you are indeed fortunate. For this size lawn you’ll want a lawn or garden tractor with a 48”-54” or 62” deck. Besides lawn size, how else do you determine how much lawn tractor you really need? Riding lawn mowers are a lot like cars — there are basic, no-frills models and feature-laden, power-packed high end models — and everything in between. The next thing you need to consider are attachments such as a bagger, front blade, or snow thrower. If you will need one or more of these now or in the future, you need to buy a lawn tractor that can accommodate them. What’s the difference between a riding lawn mower and a garden tractors? If you will be using the tractor just for cutting grass, a riding lawn mower is fine. They have several attachment options, but don’t expect it to do any heavy lifting or pulling. If you will be using the mower to pull ground engaging attachments, such as a plow, disc harrow or tiller, you will need a garden tractor. A garden tractor has a heavier frame and transmission, larger rear wheels, and is also appropriate for larger mowing jobs. A garden tractor has the highest horsepower (generally 20-27 hp). Gear Driven or Automatic Gear driven mowers are being replaced today with automatics (hydrostatic drive). Some automatics have a feature of a cruise control to provide you with a steady speed for mowing large open areas. Automatics are an excellent choice; for you control the speed by depressing the pedal and this gives you full control of how fast or slow you want to go depending on obstacles you have in your yard. Reverse is down the same way. With an automatic there is no clutching or shifting gears making it a lot more user friendly for any family member. Bagging or Mulching Many riders do an excellent job of bagging and mulching, any deck of 48” or larger with three blades will require a power bagging system in order to disperse the grass adequately into the bagging unit. A 38” or 42” cut with two blades has enough lift on the blades to carry it back into the bagging unit. In order to do a good job of mulching it’s best to install a mulch kit. The kit consists of a plug to cover your discharge chute, dividers to keep your material in longer so it can get a second cut, and mulch blades. Remember you only want to be cutting an inch off at a time for this is the ideal amount to keep from thatch build up. Single Cylinder or Twin Cylinder Two engine types are available: Twin cylinder engine — (usually 16 HP or larger) these have better balance, more power, then a single cylinder. A single cylinder is offered at a reduced price but offers plenty of power for most lawns. Getting the best deal when buying a new riding lawn mower. Getting the riding lawn mower you need at the best price is a fairly simple process if you follow a few simple rules: 1.Shopping in the off-season is always a good choice. However there are good incentives to buy all season long. Most lawn mowers are used in the spring and summer so they don’t sell all that well in the fall and winter but your choices may be limited. 2.Look for close-outs on “last year’s models”. Like cars, lawn mower styles and models change from year to year and stores must move old inventory to clear room for the new models that will be arriving soon. This means deep discounts. 3.Low payment plans or no interest for 90 days to 12 months. 4.Extended warranty and maintenance plans for it will save you several dollars by purchasing this at the point of sale instead of later on. Prairieland Partners will help you find the right match for you to meet your mowing or gardening needs. There are many other types of mowers that I didn’t mention that we have to offer you so it best to come in and drive them to help determine which would be of better match to meet your needs. Where to buy a new riding lawn mower. Buying outdoor power equipment isn’t as simple as it used to be. There are a lot more choices and a lot more people who will gladly sell you a tractor or riding mower. Unfortunately, not all of them are prepared to provide one extremely valuable commodity... knowledge. There’s great value in having a dedicated sales professional answering your lawn mowing questions, making sure you make the right choice and providing years of after the sale service. It’s something you just can’t take for granted. What to look for when shopping for a new riding lawn mower. Consider the four important qualities - cutting ability, traction, reliability and ease of use. These are the attributes, too, that will help you purchase a product based on its ability to perform and to last - not just on its price. Focusing on these things will help you remain objective in your purchasing process. The end result of a great lawn mower purchase should be a great looking lawn When buying a lawn mower or garden tractor, nothing is more important than its ability to meticulously mow your lawn. And the way your tractor’s mower is engineered will determine whether your lawn will show off a smooth manicure, or a lawn scarred by scalping. There is a science to designing mower decks. The depth and shape of the deck determines if there is sufficient vacuum and wind velocity necessary to lift, cut and evenly distribute clippings. How the deck is suspended determines how the mower rides over your lawn. A mower deck that rides over your lawn independent of the tractor frame follows the lawn’s contours into low areas and rises over high spots. The result? Uncut strips are nonexistent. There is no scalping. Just a smooth, green carpet that showcases your home. Prairieland Partners will help you find the right match for you to meet your mowing or gardening needs. There are many other types of mowers that I didn’t mention that we have to offer you so it best to come in and drive them to help determine which would be of better match to meet your needs.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Steve Appel

2009-02-01 14:22:00

Question: What are the tips for considering a new lawn mower?

Answer: We’ve talked about servicing your old unit, but if you feel it’s time, or your needs have changed you may want to consider a new lawnmower. Before making this decision please remember that there are many types made for different lawns. There are; 1) Small, self powered (no engine or motor) reel types 2) Small electric push mowers 3) Push type small engine mowers 4) Walk behind, self propelled mowers 5) Small rear engine riding mowers 6) Regular manual shift lawn tractors 7) Hydrostatic drive lawn tractors 8) Multi-purpose Garden tractors 9) Zero turn radius residential or commercial mowers A) How much grass will you mow? Will you also mow other properties? B) Do you want to walk or ride? C) How much area do you have to store it? D) Will you do the maintenance or will you have it serviced? E) Do you want to bag the clippings, throw them in the grass or mulch them? F) Do you have a brand or a dealer that you are loyal to? G) Is your terrain flat, or hilly, clear or full of trees, etc? H) What is your budget? I) Are you a “hay field” cutter, or do you like a manicured looking lawn? J) Will there be users who have physical limitations? K) Do you already have a relationship with a local outdoor power equipment dealer that you trust? L) Are there any features that you really want, like key starting, three way bag/mulch/throw, self propelled, blade/brake clutch, rust free deck, cup holders, gauges, easy height adjusting, etc. Hopefully this has given you something to think about. The right mower could last you years, and cost a good deal of money....it is good to give your purchase some forethought, ask many questions about any aspect of lawn mowers or any other outdoor power equipment you feel necessary. If you have a lawn that’s ¼ acre or more then you should consider a riding lawn mower or garden tractor. We’ll be back next month to expand on both of these units.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Steve Appel

2009-02-01 11:16:00

Question: What can I do to ensure I have no problems with my lawn mower this season?

Answer: There are no guarantees that you will have a maintenance free season, but I can tell you that the most important thing you can do is before you even start your mower, do preventive maintenance. Remember when lawn work was looked on as strictly the guy’s job. In fact, it often took the strength of Superman to pull the starter cord a minimum of 10-12 times just to get the darn thing started. Those days are no more, as the lawn mower has evolved into a tool that any gender can operate with ease. You may think, however, that maintaining your mower is still a job best left for the man of the house. This, too, is simply not the case. It’s very easy to take care of your mower; and, with some new innovations, yard work can actually be a fun chore. Let me share with you some tips that will help keep your yard picture-perfect and look at some of the great new mowers on the market to make life outside a lot easier. Maintenance - At the start of the season, usually spring, there are three main areas to focus on when it comes to your lawn mower’s maintenance. First and most important, make sure you have the oil changed. Even if you don’t think it needs it, do it! The oil should be changed at the beginning of every season. Stay tuned for more next month....

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Charlie Traffas

2008-10-01 15:56:00

Question: How important is it to drain my sprinkler system?

Answer: It’s very important to avoid any potential problems. If water is left in the pipes, it could freeze and burst, causing leaks, that could be very costly next spring. There are three basic ways to winterize your sprinkler system Manual Drain Method Use when manual valves are located at the end and low points of the irrigation piping. To drain these systems, simply shut off the irrigation water supply (shut off will be located in the basement and will be either a gate/globe valve, ball valve or stop and waste valve - see drawings below) and open all the manual drain valves. Once the water has drained out of the mainline, open the drain valve or the drain cap on the stop and waste valve (whichever is used in your area) and drain all the remaining water that is between the irrigation water shut off valve and the backflow device. Open the test cocks on the backflow device. If your sprinklers have check valves you’ll need to pull up on the sprinklers to allow the water to drain out the bottom of the sprinkler body. Depending on the location of the drain valves, there could be some water left in the backflow, the piping and the sprinklers. When all the water has drained out, close all the manual drain valves. Automatic Drain Method Use when automatic drain valves are located at the end and low points of the irrigation piping. These will automatically open and drain water if the pressure in the piping is less than 10 PSI. To activate these, you shut off the irrigation water supply and activate a station to relieve the system pressure. Once the water has drained out of the mainline, open the drain valve or the drain cap on the stop and waste valve (whichever is used in your area) and drain the remaining water that is between the irrigation water shut off valve and the backflow device. Open the test cocks on the backflow device. If your sprinklers have check valves you’ll need to pull up on the sprinklers to allow the water to drain out the bottom of the sprinkler body. Depending on the location of the drain valves, there could be some water left in the backflow, the piping and in the sprinklers. In some areas you might have a combination of the manual drain system on the mainline (the pipe between the irrigation water shut off valve and the valves) and auto drain system on the lateral lines (the pipe between the valves and the sprinklers). Blow Out Method This method is required when there are no drains installed on the Irrigation system (the most common type in the Wichita area). WARNING! WEAR APPROVED SAFETY EYE PROTECTION! Extreme care must always be taken when blowing out the system with compressed air. Compressed air can cause serious injury, including serious eye injury, from flying debris. Always wear approved safety eye protection and do not stand over any irrigation components (pipes, sprinklers and valves) during air blow out. SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY MAY RESULT IF YOU DO NOT PROCEED AS RECOMMENDED! Let me stress that its highly recommended that a qualified licensed contractor perform this type of “Winterization” method. An air compressor is required, and is attached to the mainline via a quick coupler, hose bib or other type connection, which is located after the backflow device. To start, shut off the irrigation water supply and, with the compressor valve in the closed position, attach the air compressor hose to the fitting. Activate the station on the controller that is the zone or sprinklers highest in elevation and the furthest from the compressor. Close the backflow isolation valves. Then slowly open the valve on the compressor; this should gradually introduce air into the irrigation system. The blow out pressure should remain below the maximum operating pressure specification of the lowest pressure rated component on that zone and should NEVER exceed 80 PSI. Each station/zone should be activated starting from the furthest station/zone from the compressor slowly working your way to the closest station/zone to the compressor. Each station/zone should be activated until no water can be seen exiting the heads, this should take approximately two minutes or more per station/zone. Many smaller compressors do not produce a volume of air (cfm) sufficient to evacuate all water from the typical zone in one continuous push. In this case, it is better to use two or three short cycles per station/zone than to have one long cycle. Once the station/zone is dry, you should not continue to blow air through the pipe. Since this procedure is one that can cause the most problems here are some very important tips to follow. • Blowout your sprinkler system before the first freeze hits! If this is not possible, cover the backflow device with some old towels and a bucket to prevent freeze damage until blowout occurs. • Don’t use an air compressor rated higher than 80-90 pounds per square inch (psi) capacity needed to do the job. • Make sure the air compressor you are using does not deliver compressed air at a velocity greater than 10 cubic feet per minute (cfm). A velocity higher than 10 cfm runs the risk of damaging plastic pipes because of excessive friction. • Even if your sprinkler system has a drain, don’t assume that this will be enough to protect your pipes from freezing. These pipes still need to be blown out! • BE SURE YOU HOOK UP THE AIR COMPRESSOR TO THE BLOWOUT TEE (usually a ½” or ¾” fitting) AND NOT TO THE TEST COCK ON THE BACKFLOW ASSEMBLY! • And remember when in doubt…hire a professional!

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Charlie Traffas

2008-07-01 15:11:00

Question: My husband and I bought a home last year that has a sprinkler system hooked to our water line. We tried to keep our grass as green as our neighbors, but our water bill was outrageous! Is there anything we can do to reduce our bill without letting our yard turn brown?

Answer: Enjoying a lush, green lawn is the dream of many homeowners, but the cost of municipal water during the peak watering season can be a nightmare. This is because the municipalities bill for water usage on a tiered scale; the more water you use, the more it costs. For example, the City of Wichita has a three-tiered pricing structure based on winter water usage (not annual usage). The City averages your usage through the winter months to determine how much water you use per month when you’re not running the sprinklers. This amount is the average winter consumption, and is the basis for the first tier, or block 1. This block of water is billed out at the lowest rate, which is currently .88 cents per thousand gallons. As your usage exceeds this block by 110% to 310%, the rate is increased to $3.17 per thousand gallons. This is a rate increase of 360% for the extra water you use in the summer months-- in essence, lawn sprinkler water. Any usage above 310% of AWC is block 3, billed at $4.76, or a rate increase of about 540%! The bottom line: running lawn sprinklers on city water is a costly venture, and any steps to increase your system’s efficiency will pay dividends on your summer water bill. Here are some suggestions ranging from pricey to free: •Convert to well water. There is no better way to save on water than to pump it out of the ground your self. There are several well drilling companies serving Wichita and the surrounding area. Ground water availability, quality, and depth vary widely in our region, as does the price; check with a drilling professional. Changing the sprinkler over from city to well requires burying a few additional lines, and is usually less than a thousand dollars. If you plan to be in your home for a long time, this option becomes cost efficient. •Get a sprinkler overhaul. If your system is showing its age, it is costing you money. Your property may have changed significantly since the sprinkler was originally installed. Have a sprinkler professional change out leaky heads and move heads that have become blocked or buried due to plant growth. When you have your sprinkler started up for the season, make sure the technician walks the entire property—this is the time to find and repair any leaks! •Don’t water while Mother Nature is. Ever see a sprinkler watering during a rainstorm? There is an easy fix for this phenomenon called a rain sensor. It wires up to your control box and prevents the system coming on during or after sufficient rainfall. Rain sensors start at around $60 and are easily installed during a service call hour. (Derby recently implemented a code requiring rain sensors on all lawn sprinklers—even existing ones. Look for other municipalities to follow.) •Train your grass. You can actually make your lawn greener and heartier (and save money) just by resetting the timer on your sprinkler. Many lawn irrigation controllers have a default program that sets after a power interruption. This program is meant to be an emergency solution to keep the grass from dying, but you’d be surprised at how many clocks are set this way; running every zone for ten minutes every day. Letting the sprinklers run for short periods of time every day actually weakens the grass. The water never soaks in properly, prompting the roots to grow near the surface. This makes the grass more susceptible to the heat of the summer, and if you do have an interruption in the water schedule, the grass dies easily and quickly. Instead, start off watering only 3 days a week. In general, the larger rotor heads should run for 20 minutes, and the smaller fixed-pattern spray heads for 10 minutes. To avoid water run-off and maximize efficiency, split these run times into two separate start times that have several hours of soak-in time between them. This will allow the second watering to penetrate even deeper into the soil, allowing the grass roots to grow deeper. Also, watering earlier in the morning will help keep the wind from carrying your water into your neighbor’s yard. (Example: Days -- M W F , Start time 1 – 5:30am , Start time 2 – 7:30am , Zone run times – Rotors 10 min. Sprays – 5 min.)

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2007-04-01 09:11:00

I was thinking of putting in new grass in my lawn. Could you please tell me what different kinds of grasses there are?

As you already know, there are many types and kinds of grasses... too many to list at one time... but perhaps we can talk about a couple of them this month, and a few more in future months. One of the first things you need to know is the different climate of the U.S. as climate means a lot when it comes to grass. Bluegrass is a cool season, perennial ground cover; forming a beautiful, high quality, dense sod when grown in pure stands. Grass color ranges from bright green to deep bluish green. Bluegrass is often used in low to medium traffic areas and often incorporated with other grass species to produce a better multi-purpose lawn. Bluegrass is often sold as a blend of similar improved varieties for greater versatility. This blend can result in improved lawn appearance, earlier green, with better disease and insect resistance. Fescues are cool season grasses that are adapted to the transition zone and into Canada. The fescue species are easily seeded and include the sub species of tall bunching grasses named Tall Fescue and fine shorter fescues named Creeping Red, Hard, Chewing’s and Sheep Fescue. All of the fescues share the same variety characteristics with the three dominant ones being shade tolerant, staying green all year, and having very good drought resistance. Fine Fescues are more cold and shade tolerant than Tall. The majority of cool season grasses (besides Fescues) are not shade tolerant nor do many perform well in the lower areas of the transitions zone where the season is too hot for the cool grasses and in the area of the transition zone that is too cold in the winter for the warm season grasses. Fescues fill a large gap in the grass field created by the climate differences that are not fully defined by zone. Fine Fescues are readily used in mixtures with the Kentucky bluegrass varieties for summer northern lawns and with the warm season grasses in winter lawns. Both Fine and Tall Fescues can remain green all year long in the cooler climates. They usually will become dormant in the areas too hot during the summer or too cold in winter and will show a paler green color at these times. Fescues are also used in over seeding warm and cool grass lawns.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Carl Witte

2007-03-01 11:06:00

How can I stay away from the “Oh You’re Kidding Me Club?”

ANSWER: This is the group of people that wait till the last minute to get their mower serviced. A customer comes to the counter on Monday and says I need mower service and I would like to pick it up on Saturday and the person behind the counter politely says you can count on that in about 4 Saturdays and the customer says in shock you've got to be kidding me. ACT NOW!!!!!! Servicing the mower should consist of changing the oil, cleaning or changing the air filter, replaceing the spark plug, sharpening and balancing the blade, scraping the under side of the deck, and drain the old gas. Most all the local independently owned lawn mower shops in Wichita stay open all winter long. They do what is called winter service to lawn mowers so they are ready for the Ist mow in the spring. Most shops offer some type of promo to get customers to get their mowers in for service . Some promos are free pickup and delivery or for the customer that brings in their mowers they get a discount of some type. So act now! If you haven’t looked at your mower then do so now! Because spring is just around the corner! If you do not think the old lawn mower will go another year and you need to replace it get an early start. Go to your local independently owned lawn mower shop and get a knowledgeable sales person to help you decide which new lawn mower is the correct mower for you. There are several reasons to buy from the locally owned shops. One is knowledge; the sales person will be able to answer your questions about the different mowers you might be considering purchasing. Two is service; before and after the sale, they will set up, service, start and run your mower before it leaves the store; and if necessary they will deliver your new lawn mower to your house. Three is that when that lawn mower needs serviced or you need a pan, they will more than likely remember you and the lawn mower you purchased and will have the parts and service to take care of you. Another way to tell spring is just around the comer is the Wichita Garden Show is coming. The show is at Century 2 starting February 28th through March 4th That is a good place to start looking if that old mower is not going to make it another year. There is no other place you can go spend the day looking at lawn equipment of all types under one roof and also get to enjoy the beauty of the rest of the show. This year the parking is going to be a problem because of all the construction downtown so be sure to use the free parking at Lawrence Dumont stadium or Town West Shopping Center. A free shuttle will be provided to transport you to the front door of Century II at no extra charge. Please refer to the website at www.wichitagardenshow.com for additional parking information. So get off the couch and get that lawn mower situation taken care of so you don't have to say; Oh You’re Kidding Me!

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Carl Witte

2007-02-01 13:49:00

Are there any tips on how to maintain your mower to get the best use out of it?

ANSWER: In our effort to simplify chores and tasks, try something new this year. Do not wait until that first gorgeous spring weekend to pull out the mower that has been neglected all winter. Either service or have your mower serviced to save any frustration that may occur when your lawn is ready, but your mower is not. Winter is a good time to perform regular maintenance on your mower. It’s recommended to have a good service program that includes changing oil, spark plug, air filter, oil filter, blow out the top shrouds on the engine, scrape the deck, sharpen the blades, check all belts and bearings, grease the machine, inspect the drive system and adjust as needed, start and run the machine to ensure good performance in the coming year. Lawn mowers have been around for a long time. Maintaining and caring for them has been a common household item that is often neglected. A typical tune-up of a 2 or 4 cycle lawn mower is not that difficult if your mower was running good last year. If your mower was running okay at the end of last year, a simple tune-up should keep it running well this year. One can expect to spend anywhere from $30 to $50 and higher. If your mower was difficult to start or ran 'rough' take it to a professional outdoor equipment company. A good lawn mower can cost $300 or more, so take some time to protect your investment, and perform some simple preventive maintenance. The first thing to do is to change the oil. Before doing this, though, determine whether you have a 2 or 4 cycle engine. If you have to add oil to the gasoline that you use for your mower, then it is a 2-cycle engine. If you have this type of engine, you do not need to change the oil. If you do not add oil to the gasoline, then you have a 4-cycle engine and the oil does need changing at least once a year. Replacing the spark plug is a good idea; however you may need to purchase a special spark plug wrench if you do not have access to a deep-well socket. Spark plug wrenches are available at any hardware store and are inexpensive. If you can, drain the old gasoline out of the tank. If you cannot complete this task easily, then add a gasoline stabilizer that should be available at your local lawn mower store. It’s highly recommended that sharpening the blade is done by a professional mower service company. This is to insure that the blade remains balanced, and the specific angle is maintained, or the blade will dull quickly. Many mower repair services will sharpened your blade for $5 to $10. Spend the money and have your blade sharpen professionally. Lastly, make a general inspection of all the nuts, bolts, and screws on your mower. Tighten any that are loose. Position all the wheels at the same height. Set the mowing height at the level that is best for the grasses in your lawn. Check with your local outdoor equipment company as some offer early service specials. These could include but are not limited to free pick up and delivery, or a labor discount etc.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Peter Salmeron

2006-03-30 14:20:00

Question: This past winter, we lost part of our hedge that graces the front of our home. Can you provide some information on hedges, along with the types and things we need to know before putting one back?

ANSWER: Thank you for the question. First, here's some background information on hedges. A "hedge" is a wall composed of plants. Some hedges are purely decorative, while others serve primarily a practical function. Hedge plants used decoratively are often trimmed to precise sizes and shapes and include evergreen and deciduous shrubs. Such hedge plants may also serve the practical function of affording a property some security. Almost any row of densely growing hedge plants will enhance security to some degree. If you need a higher level of security, but still wish to stick to hedge plants rather than fences, select a variety that has thorns, or at least prickly leaves.But security is not the only practical function that hedges can serve. Hedge plants may also be used to create privacy screens or windbreaks, in which cases small trees are often employed (either exclusively or mixed with shrubs).The hedge plants in privacy screens or windbreaks are commonly allowed to grow naturally, rather than trimmed to a particular size and shape, unless the grower wishes to combine decorative and practical functions.Below I discuss examples of hedge plants. I'll begin with hedge shrubs. Note that not all hedge shrubs should be meticulously trimmed so as to form sculpted, even surfaces with straight lines. Only three of the shrubs discussed below are typically trimmed in this fashion (forming the "classic" hedge, if you will):• Boxwood• Privet• YewExamples of Evergreen Hedge Shrubs:Japanese holly looks more like a boxwood shrub than holly shrub, bearing small, oval leaves. Many cultivars of this broadleaf evergreen are available; for hedge plants, most people select those that reach 3'-4' in height, with a similar spread. Japanese holly is hardy to zone 6. But English holly (Ilex aquifolium), with its prickly leaves, makes a better hedge plant if you wish to combine security with aesthetic considerations. Some hollies grow tall enough to serve as privacy screens. Boxwoods are the classic hedge plants. These broadleaf evergreens were adored by aristocratic Europeans for centuries as defining elements in formal garden design. Other broadleaf evergreens suitable as hedge plants include the mountain laurels. A bonus with mountain laurels is that they bloom in late spring-early summer. Don't try to trim laurels as you would boxwoods. Among needle-bearing evergreens, yew bushes are perhaps the classic hedge plants. They are popular, partly because they tolerate shade. Some yews grow tall enough to serve as privacy screens. However, yews are slow growers.Examples of Deciduous Hedge Shrubs: Deciduous hedge shrubs look great while they're in bloom, but just so-so during the winter. Also, because they drop their leaves and stand naked for part of the year, deciduous shrubs make for less than ideal privacy screens. Three of the deciduous shrubs most commonly found in hedges are rose of sharon, forsythia bushes and lilac bushes. But you probably won't want to prune any of these as meticulously as you would, say, boxwood. Most people agree that forsythia, in particular, looks best when it is allowed to "have a bad hair day." To form a hedge with such a shrub, simply plant several of them in a line. Don't fuss with making them conform to precise, pre-determined dimensions.Examples of Other Hedge Shrubs:Like mountain laurels, azaleas and privets are broadleaf shrubs that put out flowers (the former much more impressively). However, not all varieties of azaleas and privets are evergreen; and those that are will not necessarily grow well in your zone. Check with your local county extension to see if you can grow evergreen azaleas or privets in your area. If not, you can treat azaleas and privets as you would the other hedge shrubs in the prior category.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Peter Salmeron

2005-10-01 14:59:00

: What should I be doing now to prepare my flower beds for next spring?

ANSWER: Summer may be the season to stop and smell the roses, but fall is the time to stop and listen to your garden. Your spent flower garden can tell you a lot at the end of the growing season. Assess the results of all your spring and summer work, and prepare the garden for next spring NOW!Maintaining your garden in the fall consists mainly of weeding, deadheading faded blooms, dividing overgrown plants, digging up non-hardy bulbs for winter storage, removing spent annuals, amending soil and adding needed mulch. • Track successes and failures of individual plants in their locations.• Identify which plants have outgrown their space and need to be divided.• Determine which bare areas could use soil amendment and new plants.• Look for any remaining weeds.• In mulched areas, determine whether more mulch is needed.• Check the overall health of plants; look for common diseases and damage.• Plan to remove summer annuals from window boxes and garden beds and replace them with cool weather flowers.• Look for any bulb plants that are not  hardy-dig and store for winter. Replanting window boxes in early fall allows you to extend color into the remainder of the growing season. Simply remove summer annuals, add more potting mix and plant cool weather bloomers like ornamental kale and pansies. Remove all annuals from the garden. You can save seeds from most annuals and plant them next year. Zinnias are an easy plant to collect seeds from and to grow from seed. Basic guidelines for common flowers: Roses• Fall is not the ideal time to prune roses. This could stimulate new growth that may not be able to survive the winter  in colder zones.• Do cut off any dead wood.• Replace ties with jute twine. Natural fibers make the best ties because they are more flexible. They will break down over time. At that point,  it will be time to retie the plants anyway.Yarrow• Remove faded blooms and dried stems and foliage. This sends energy back into the foliage and roots and encourages new growth.• Yarrow flowers can be used fresh or dried in flower arrangements.Phlox• Cut faded blossoms. • If powdery mildew is present, remove most of the stem that has the worst of the problem. Discard any affected debris-do not compost.Gladiolus• It's important to get these out of the ground before the first killing frost; it doesn't harm the plants to do this while their foliage is still green.• Dig out the bulbs and gently shake excess dirt from their roots.• Cut off the stalks.• Allow  to "cure" (dry) for a couple of days.• Shake any remaining soil from bulbs.• Put bulbs in a cardboard box with some peat moss and store in a cool, dry place for the winter. Siberian Iris• You can tell when Siberian iris is ready to divide. The clumps form a circle that's hollowed out in the middle, like a donut.  • To divide, dig out the entire clump and then cut it into sections. Replace one section into the original hole and save the remaining sections for other bare areas in the garden.Clematis• Cut the vine back to the ground. New shoots will form from the base next spring.Coral Bells• To divide overgrown plants, dig out the entire clump. Try to keep as much of the root ball intact with as much soil around the root as possible. Cut the clump into sections with a spade.Liatrus• Completely remove the top growth. Once the foliage has died, cut it back to the ground to reduce the risk of plant diseases that are harbored there during winter.More fall maintenance tips to help keep your garden healthy and happy:• Disinfect pruners before using them on other plants as you remove spent blooms and foliage throughout the garden.• Do not put any diseased plants into your compost pile.• Amend soil where there are bare spots or where you've removed annuals. Add compost and peat moss to replace nutrients lost during summer growth and to better prepare the soils for spring planting. Turn the amendments into the soil with a garden fork to distribute it.• Brush off any mulch that is sitting on branches of shrubs because it can cause leaves and needles to yellow. Dividing perennials reinvigorates plants and gives you new plants to add to other areas of your garden or to share with neighbors

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Peter Salmeron

2005-08-01 09:54:00

:  Is it true that fall is a good outdoor planting season?

ANSWER: In the landscape industry, some definition of fall is needed. The digging season associated with fall has more to do with the leaves dropping and moisture content of the ground, than it does a specific date on the calendar. Rainy periods in the fall make digging and transport of plants from the fields difficult. And, dry periods in the fall make digging difficult because it becomes more difficult to keep soil undisturbed around root balls.Plants that have been dug from nurseries in the fall are generally dormant and less likely to stress from transplanting. The dormant season allows the plant's root structure to grow and become established before energy is expended in the spring and summer. Trees and shrubs planted in early fall will have time to become established. Regularly scheduled watering in the winter months is still necessary to help plants survive.For great fall color, try these favorites: Black-Eyed Susan and Snapdragon flowers. Now is a great time to purchase fall bulbs for planting in November. These bulbs will yield bright colors in the spring: Anemone, Daffodil, Dahlia, Gladiolus, Hyacinth, Narcissus, Ranunculus and Tulips. Consider planting grasses like Regal Mist and trees like the Chinese Pistache and Modesto Ash. Beautiful plants will only be complemented by a beautiful lawn. Lawns thrive in the fall growing season. It's the perfect time to address lawn problems and a great time to feed and prepare them for the coming winter. The care and maintenance your lawn receives during this time of year is essential to its success year round. Here's how to keep your lawn healthy in the fall:• Mow grass at a height of 2 - 3 inches. • Even though it is cooler in the fall, lawns still need regular watering to maintain plant health and better survive winter conditions. Continue watering until the ground begins to freeze. • Aerate grass in September or October. Compacted soils are all too common here. Aeration boosts water penetration, which reduces runoff on slopes and helps water and fertilizer nutrients get down to the roots. Aerate again in the spring.• Mid-to late October is the best time of year to fertilize your lawn. Fertilizer provides grass with nutrients for spring growth. Use zero phosphorous lawn fertilizer unless you are establishing a new lawn or you have a soil test that indicates additional phosphorus is needed. Water your lawn for 1 - 2 hours after fertilizer application. Fertilizer not only improves turf quality, root growth and color - it also builds cold resistance into your grass. • September is the best time of year to treat dandelions, plantain, clover and Creeping Char-lie. Limited weeds should be removed by hand or spot-treated with herbicide. • Sweep up and reuse lawn care products that fall on streets, sidewalk and driveways. Here's How to Recycle Your Leaves:• Compost. Recycles nutrients and helps keep leaves out of streets and storm sewers. • Mulch. Use leaves, whole or shredded by a mower, as winter or spring mulch. • Mow. If you have less than 2 inches of leaves covering your lawn, you can leave them in place and make several passes over them with a mower. By shredding them into a fine, thin layer, you will provide your grass with valuable nutrients and end up with a lawn that looks like it was just raked. If you're still watering seven days of the week, STOP! Your yard will still thrive when you reduce the number of days you water each week. Water in three short, four-minute cycles during the early-morning hours. For brown spots or problem areas, try hand-watering rather than increasing the timer on your sprinkler system.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Peter Salmeron

2005-05-01 09:03:00

: In adding value to my property through landscaping, is there a difference between professional and do-it-yourself landscaping?

ANSWER: As guests or customers approach your drive, each begins to form an impression about you through your landscape. A professionally designed, constructed and maintained landscape reflects your attention to detail and the pride you take in your property. Everyone will appreciate it!    Professional landscaping has been shown to add 20% or more to the value of your property. And while improving your investment, creative landscaping also enhances the quality of life for everyone who enjoys it. A landscape professional can design and build a landscape that will accent the natural strengths of your property, while providing an affordable, attractive and long-lasting way to ensure your privacy, enhance your security and increase the energy efficiency of your home or business. In working with a professional landscaper, they will suggest landscape elements to satisfy both your tastes and long-term goals. Whether you use them for design, installation or both, they will work closely with you to ensure that your vision becomes a practical yet beautiful reality. Design professionals combine practicality, aesthetics and dramatic impact to transform your property. Using years of expertise and insights, they design for the future so that your landscape will mature gracefully with minimum maintenance. The result is a property that becomes more attractive with each passing year. Even the greatest landscape design is only as good as materials used and the experience of the people building it. Choose the plantings for installations carefully, and employ trained and careful installation crews with a reputation for making every detail right.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2005-04-01 10:50:00

: What type of tree and shrub diseases should we be most concerned with this time of year?

ANSWER: There are many things that can happen to trees and shrubs.  They basically come down to insects and disease.  This issue we will talk about the most common  disease problems to look for.Scale - Scale insects have a shell-like, waxy covering on their bodies. Scale insects feed by sucking sap from trees and shrubs and are capable of killing entire plants or parts of the plant. Scale insect feeding can also reduce the plant's vigor, making it more susceptible to injury caused by drought, severe winters, and attacks by other insects and diseases. Plants are often covered by a sooty mold. The sooty mold gives the plant a blackish appearance. Most species of trees and shrubs are subject to scale insects.Fireblight - Certain varieties of apple, flowering crab, pear, pyracantha, cherry and quince are highly susceptible to fireblight. Hawthorns, cotoneaster and spirea are affected less seriously. Signs of the fireblight are blossoms and leaves that suddenly wilt, turn dark brown, shrivel and die, but remain attached. The bacteria overwinters in canker on the plants. They are spread by wind-blowing rain, insects and pruning tools.Powder Mildew - Common hosts are roses, crabapple and lilac. Powder mildew may produce a white powdery coating on the leaves, buds or stems of highly susceptible plants. New growth is stunted and curled on roses. The leaves may dry and drop. The flower buds are often deformed and may fail to open properly.Leaf Spot - Fungal leaf spot occurs on most kinds of ornamental plants. They usually appear first on the lower leaves. They may begin as dark brown, pinhead-sized spots, which sometimes have a yellow halo. Spots may cover an entire leaf. As the spots become more abundant, leaves may yellow, die and drop. Leaf spot is most common in the early spring and fall. Wet conditions usually are necessary for infection. Healthy plants become infected when the fungi spores are slashed onto the infected leaves on the ground, blown to them by wind, or carried by garden tools.Scab - Apples, crabapple and pyracanthat are susceptible to the scab fungus. Symptoms include spots on leaves and fruit and premature defoliation. Scab first appears as olive-green spots on the underside of new leaves. These spots become brown and velvety, then turn yellow and drop prematurely. Fruit may become infected at any time with circular, olive-green spots that later become brown or black. The fungi overwinters in infected leaves and produces spores in the spring.These are the most common diseases that occur in our region.  Again, please remember, these are not the only ones.  Identification of the disease and what to do can be very difficult unless you have been trained.  Like insects, the earlier a disease is diagnosed and treatment begins the better... before major damage occurs.  You have a big investment in your landscape, not to mention how long it would take for trees and shrubs to grow again.  Unless you are thoroughly trained in looking at it all, it is best to consult a certified chemical applicator to monitor it on a regular basis.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Peter Salmeron

2005-04-01 10:50:00

: Can you tell me the difference between annual and perennial grasses?

ANSWER: One of the common questions we hear is about the difference between annuals and perennials. Annuals sprout from seed, grow and die in one season. The life cycle of annuals starts from scratch each year. Perennials live from year to year. Trees are perennial plants and so is most of the turf in your lawn. Crabgrass and several other grasses are annuals. This means they have to sprout from seed each year. Lawns with serious annual grass problems will have large dead areas each winter. These infestations will usually increase in size each year, unless the problem is corrected. If the seeds can be stopped from germinating, you can get good control of these annual grasses. Each annual grass plant that grew anywhere in your neighborhood last year produced as many as 4000 seeds before it died. Those seeds may have found their way into your lawn on the soles of soles, by being blown by the wind, or by birds. Getting annual grasses out of your lawn is not a once-and-for-all kind of thing. It takes continued care. Chemical controls are designed to help in the process of controlling these unwanted weeds, but cultural practices also make a big difference. Here are a few things you can do to be sure of the very best control. Managing Crabgrass with Cultural Practices • Don't let soil dry out so much that cracks begin to appear. This breaks the pre-emergent barrier and allows crabgrass to sprout. • Keep grass mowed high. Scalping (or mowing too low) sets the lawn back several weeks and lets more sun and warmth reach the soil surface. When this happens, annual grasses sprout more easily. • Give extra water to the lawn along driveways, sidewalk and street pavement. The concrete or blacktop transmits heat to the soil. Super heated soil makes your good turf suffer and thin, and opens the door for annual grasses and weeds to sprout and grow. Tidbits for Your Garden... • Be sure to avoid newly seeded areas if a pre-emergent herbicide is applied for annual grass control. Because pre-emergent kills seeds as they sprout, they can also affect your good seed. As a general rule, avoid seeding areas with pre-emergents. • Try growing a few lilies for cut flowers. They grow easily and there are loads of colors and types from which to choose. • Most perennials can be divided in spring. You can multiply your favorites by having them dug and divided into several clumps and replanted. • Schedule spring bed care now. Leaves and debris should be removed and a clean edge put on all planting beds. Prevent summer weeds with a pre-emergent applied as a last step before fresh mulch is laid down. • Set up your annual tree and shrub care to include dormant oil and feeding this spring. • Rake out dead or brown patches to stimulate new lawn growth. • If you are spot seeding, be sure to clearly mark those areas so they can be avoided with pre-emergent crabgrass control applications. Keep an eye out for disease. Brown patches or discoloration may mean you have fungus activity.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2004-08-01 11:51:00

:  Why does one have to overseed his/her lawn?

ANSWER:  Home owners overseed an existing lawn for two main reasons: To thicken and improve the appearance of a thin or patchy lawn, or to give winter color to a dormant southern lawn, such as a bermudagrass lawn.Older lawns may need overseeding as a result of turf thinning from drought conditions, thatch, insect damage, or disease activity. Newer lawns may be thin as a result of seeding too lightly at first planting. Regardless of the reason, if your lawn is thin or patchy, overseeding can dramatically improve the appearance of the lawn without having to perform an entire lawn renovation. Follow these steps for a successful overseeding.Overseeding is best done in spring or fall, when cooler temperatures and moisture prevail. Determine if thatch is a problem in the lawn. Dig up an area of turf. If the thatch (layer of dead roots and stems just below the green blades) is more than 1/2 inch thick, you should consider renting de-thatching equipment before overseeding. It is important to remove this layer so that the new seedlings will have an adequate soil layer in which to grow. De-thatching will also help your remaining turf to thrive by allowing moisture and nutrients to reach the grass roots. Adding a layer of topsoil (top dressing) may be necessary before overseeding, especially if the presence of tree roots has resulted in an inadequate topsoil layer. Spread a thin layer of screened topsoil over the lawn, and rake it in. Never add more than 1/4 of an inch of topsoil, or you may smother the existing lawn.  Choose a grass seed type that is compatible with the conditions in your lawn. Once you have determined the right seed type, check the package for how much to buy for your lawn size. The package will give you recommendations for overseeding. Cut the lawn slightly lower than normal the day before you overseed. Keep the seedlings moist! The top one-inch of soil will need to remain moist (like a squeezed out sponge) for at least the next several weeks. You may mow the existing lawn, unless the ground is extremely wet or muddy. If the soil is muddy, the new seeds and seedlings may be torn from the ground. If the soil is too dry, the seeds may be picked up and blown around. Water the lawn before mowing if this is the case. Keep in mind that a thin lawn could be the result of poor soil. Consider having your soil tested, and follow a fertilization schedule that is right for your lawn. Finally, remember to mow high and often and water when your lawn shows signs of drought-related stress.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2004-07-01 10:05:00

Question:  I have a bunch of 'wild' Bermuda growing in my lawn.  How do I get rid of it?  When is the best time?

ANSWER: ‘Wild' Bermuda can be a real pain.  The best time to kill it is right now... during the hottest months of the summer (July and August).  If you kill it now, you will have a much better chance of getting the most benefits from overseeding this Fall. Bermuda grass is a fine textured "creeping grass" that grows and spreads rapidly during warm summer months. Due to its rapid and sometimes widespread growth during warm months, Bermuda can quickly take over cool-season grasses while dormant. Herbicides are usually not as effective as simply hand-picking these weeds before they grow out of control. To help prevent this, you can apply a pre-emergence just prior to its growing season (usually spring time) to prevent the seeds from germinating. However, the other extreme is to apply fluazifopbutyl or glyphosate to kill all of the grass, then reseed over it. This is only suggested if you plan on replanting or renovating your lawn afterwards. Bermuda grass was brought to America in the 1500's from Africa via the Spaniards.  Since that time has developed from the basic forage grass into one of the major grass species used on the most exclusive golf greens worldwide. This grass is a perennial sod former, dark green, drought resistant, low growing, fast repairing, full sun, has fair salt tolerance, can be mown closely, forms a dense turf,  goes into dormancy when temperatures drop below 60 degrees and greens up fast when temperatures rise. Once only grown from sod or sprigged it is now available as seed in both common and improved varieties.  Bermuda spreads by rhizomes and stolons and is a highly diversified grass.  Lawns planted in Bermuda can attain full lawn coverage in one year.  It is not uncommon for seeded Bermuda lawns to be established within 60-90 days.  This grass is one of the few warm season coverage that will grow a little further north in colder climates. It will turn brown at the first dip in temperature though.  Look for more cold tolerant varieties. In the more warmer tropical south, during average rainfall years, Bermuda will retain a beautiful green color all year round. This grass can be grown on low to high maintenance schedules depending upon the usage. The down side to Bermuda is the aggressive quality that also makes it so popular. Flower beds or other adjacent areas can be over-run if not kept in check by constant edging or applications of herbicides. This is one of the grasses that can "return from the dead" if not completely killed the first time due to its extensive root system and just digging it up without getting rid of the roots will not solve the problem.  Repeated applications of a glyphosphate are usually required to kill Bermuda.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Peter Salmeron

2004-06-01 11:37:00

Question:  Is there some sort of bush or hedge that I could plant in my yard to act as a "natural fence" for privacy?

ANSWER:  There are several bushes that can be used as a "natural fence".  For example you can choose:• Amur River Privet-  a large semi-evergreen used for screens and hedges. Attractive foliage highlighted by clusters of small white flowers in late spring.  It can grow to 10-12' x  4-5'• Winter Green Boxwood-  a hardy, dense evergreen shrub with small light green leaves. Good for a hedge foundation 4' x 4'.• Compact Burning Bush-  a rounded, deciduous, wide spreading shrub. Brilliant, long lasting and turns red in Fall 6' x 8'.• Forsythia-  Sunshine yellow bell-shaped blooms cover slender branches at the first sign of spring, followed by medium green foliage 6' x 6'.• Spartan Juniper- Very handsome, tall growing pyramidal evergreen with dense, rich green foliage 15-20' x 6-10'.There are many other selections. It is important you take into consideration location, how much sun or shade you receive in the area, soil moisture and type of soil. It is always a good idea to fertilize your shrubs to make them healthy and disease resistant. Many times the addition of soil amendments when planting increases the survival rate of the plant material.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2004-06-01 09:38:00

:  Why does my lawn have grubs but not my neighbor’s?ANSWER:  Remember the adult stage of the grub life cycle is a beetle, which can fly. Random chance is part of the answer. But adult beetles usually lay eggs in full-sun lawn areas with adequate soil moisture. The masked chafer (annual white grub) and Japanese beetle lay eggs in July. So if the weather has been dry but your lawn is watered and surrounded by dry lawns, it is a prime target for egg laying. QUESTION:  How can I predict if my lawn will have grub damage this year?ANSWER:  It is difficult, as insects can go in cycles and many factors influence the chances of grubs appearing in your lawn. Lots of adult beetles on the lawn in July is one indication. Masked chafers, the adult of the annual white grub, are tan beetles active shortly after sundown. Japanese beetles fly during the day and feed heavily on many ornamentals. Noting these adults and then having irrigated lawns surrounded by drier turf increases the chances of grub damage to your lawn. Watch lawns closely starting about mid-August and continuing into September for wilting and browning areas, and then check the root zone for grubs.QUESTION:  Can I prevent damage from grubs?ANSWER:  There are some options to consider. One option is allow

ANSWER:  White grubs feed on the roots of grasses, so lawns will show wilting and browning of irregular shaped areas. Certainly there could be many reasons for lawns browning, especially in late summer when most grub damage occurs. Always check the root zone of affected areas for the white, c-shaped grubs. Carefully pull back the sod in suspect areas, in particular the marginal areas where brown grass meets green grass, and look for the grubs. Usually a population of about 10 or more grubs per square foot will lead to browning of the lawn. Keep in mind other factors that can lead to poor rooting and are mistaken for grubs. For example, lawns in shade areas often have weak roots and are pulled-up easily. Grubs do not typically appear in shade lawns. Also, brown areas in many lawns were easily pulled up this spring and grubs were blamed. Once grass dies, regardless of the cause, roots will rot away and the grass is very easy to tear out.Another sign of grubs is damage from skunks and raccoons digging up lawns in search of grubs to eat. This usually happens at night. Moles may or may not be feeding on grubs.QUESTION:  Why does my lawn have grubs but not my neighbor’s?ANSWER:  Remember the adult stage of the grub life cycle is a beetle, which can fly. Random chance is part of the answer. But adult beetles usually lay eggs in full-sun lawn areas with adequate soil moisture. The masked chafer (annual white grub) and Japanese beetle lay eggs in July. So if the weather has been dry but your lawn is watered and surrounded by dry lawns, it is a prime target for egg laying. QUESTION:  How can I predict if my lawn will have grub damage this year?ANSWER:  It is difficult, as insects can go in cycles and many factors influence the chances of grubs appearing in your lawn. Lots of adult beetles on the lawn in July is one indication. Masked chafers, the adult of the annual white grub, are tan beetles active shortly after sundown. Japanese beetles fly during the day and feed heavily on many ornamentals. Noting these adults and then having irrigated lawns surrounded by drier turf increases the chances of grub damage to your lawn. Watch lawns closely starting about mid-August and continuing into September for wilting and browning areas, and then check the root zone for grubs.QUESTION:  Can I prevent damage from grubs?ANSWER:  There are some options to consider. One option is allowing the lawn to go into dormancy as conditions dry in July (assuming there is little rainfall), reducing the odds of grub damage. Another is to closely monitor the lawn as we advance into late summer and be ready to act if grubs start to appear. Insecticides such as diazinon or trichlorfon can be applied when grubs are first noticed to prevent large-scale damage. Insecticides that take about 3 weeks to kill grubs, such as imidacloprid or halofenozide can be applied prior to noting damage. Apply these in late July to lawns likely to show damage. All of these insecticides should be watered into the soil for best results. Lawns should also be watered prior to application. QUESTION:  What about usinhg organic controls for grub control?ANSWER:  Heterorhabditis bacteriophora nematodes have shown good results for white grub control. Nematodes are very small unsegmented worms. This particular species will search out white grubs and after entering the grub, release bacteria that kills the grub. This product should be applied late in the day to lawns with adequate soil moisture and then watered in immediately.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Peter Salmeron

2004-05-01 11:35:00

:  My homeowners' covenants will not allow Bermuda grass to be planted. What's the problem with Bermuda? Doesn't it do well in hot climates such as Kansas?

ANSWER:  Bermuda grass is considered a warm season grass. This means that it will not turn green until late April or early May and will go dormant in late October, compared to a cool season grass such as Fescue, which turns green early March and stays green through early December.Bermuda is very aggressive and grows by rhizomes or root extensions on the ground, invading landscaping beds and other areas. Fescue grass is "clumpy" and is not invasive.Bermuda can be more susceptible to disease and to cold weather, while Fescue is more resistant. It is not unusual to find dead patches of Bermuda grass early in the spring after snow and cold weather.Most of the Bermuda varieties are native to Kansas and in most residential lawns it is considered an undesirable grass, mainly because next to Fescue grass, it does not look as attractive. Particularly early in the season, Fescue grasses are green and growing while the Bermuda grass is yellow and " dead looking". Although, when it is very hot, Bermuda does better than Fescue, and it does not require as much water as many other grasses do.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2004-05-01 08:19:00

Question: What is the purpose of pruning trees?

ANSWER:  Proper pruning enhances the beauty of almost any landscape tree and shrub, while improper pruning can ruin or greatly reduce its landscape potential. In most cases, it is better not to prune than to do it incorrectly. In nature, plants go years with little or no pruning, but man can ruin what nature has created. By using improper pruning methods healthy plants are often weakened or deformed. In nature, every plant eventually is pruned in some manner. It may be a simple matter of low branches being shaded by higher ones resulting in the formation of a collar around the base of the branch restricting the flow of moisture and nutrients. Eventually the leaves wither and die and the branch then drops off in a high wind or storm. Often, tender new branches of small plants are broken off by wild animals in their quest for food. In the long run, a plant growing naturally assumes the shape that allows it to make the best use of light in a given location and climate. All one needs to do to appreciate a plant's ability to adapt itself to a location is to walk into a wilderness and see the beauty of natural growing plants. Pruning, like any other skill, requires knowing what you are doing to achieve success. The old idea that anyone with a chain saw or a pruning saw can be a landscape pruner is far from the truth. More trees are killed or ruined each year from improper pruning than by pests. Remember that pruning is the removal or reduction of certain plant parts that are not required, that are no longer effective, or that are of no use to the plant. It is done to supply additional energy for the development of flowers, fruits, and limbs that remain on the plant. Pruning, which has several definitions, essentially involves removing plant parts to improve the health, landscape effect, or value of the plant. Once the objectives are determined and a few basic principles understood, pruning primarily is a matter of common sense. The necessity for pruning can be reduced or eliminated by selecting the proper plant for the location. Plants that might grow too large for the site, are not entirely hardy, or become unsightly with age should be used wisely and kept to a minimum in the landscape plan. Advances in plant breeding and selection in the nursery industry provide a wide assortment of plants requiring little or no pruning. However, even the most suitable landscape plants often require some pruning.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Peter Salmeron

2004-04-01 13:46:00

Question:  What are the advantages/disadvantages of applying sod versus planting grass seed for a new lawn?

ANSWER:  The advantage to installing sod is that you do not have to fight weeds or over seeding once or twice a year. It provides immediate gratification because you can have a beautiful lawn in one or two days. Sod is also very useful to install in areas with steep slopes, but be careful, if you do not water regularly in the first two weeks you may lose your investment. Another advantage of sodding is that you can sod most times of the year, the only exception being when the ground freezes. The biggest disadvantage with sodding is the cost. It can be more than four times the cost of seeding. The biggest advantage of seeding is the cost, which can vary from 8 cents per sq. ft. to 12 cents per sq. ft. (depending on the difficulty of the terrain and the size of the terrain) compared to sodding which can be more than 36 cents per sq. ft. (again depending on the size and the difficulty of the terrain).Seeding has its disadvantages. If you complete the job, and there is a strong storm, you may lose most of the seed in a wash out. If it's very windy when you are seeding, you may again lose most of your seed. Regardless if you choose to sod or seed, you will have to treat weeds that germinate due to the frequent watering which is required. The germination period for fescue seed is 14 to 21 days, depending on soil conditions, humidity and temperature. The germination period for Rye seed is much less, again, depending on environmental conditions. Most of the new lawns in the Wichita Metro area are a mix of fescue seeds. If you're not ready to risk it yourself, hire a professional. They may be able to save you hundreds of dollars, with the proper equipment and know how.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2004-04-01 08:49:00

:  What type of tree and shrub diseases should we be most concerned with this time of year?  

ANSWER:  There are many things that can happen to trees and shrubs.  Last issue we talked about insects.  This issue we will talk about the most common  disease problems to look for.Scale - Scale insects have a shell-like, waxy covering on their bodies. Scale insects feed by sucking sap from trees and shrubs and are capable of killing entire plants or parts of the plant. Scale insect feeding can also reduce the plant's vigor, making it more susceptible to injury caused by drought, severe winters, and attacks by other insects and diseases. Plants are often covered by a sooty mold. The sooty mold gives the plant a blackish appearance. Most species of trees and shrubs are subject to scale insects.Fireblight - Certain varieties of apple, flowering crab, pear, pyracantha, cherry and quince are highly susceptible to fireblight. Hawthorns, cotoneaster and spirea are affected less seriously. Signs of the fireblight are blossoms and leaves that suddenly wilt, turn dark brown, shrivel and die, but remain attached. The bacteria overwinters in canker on the plants. They are spread by wind-blowing rain, insects and pruning tools.Powder Mildew - Common hosts are roses, crabapple and lilac. Powder mildew may produce a white powdery coating on the leaves, buds or stems of highly susceptible plants. New growth is stunted and curled on roses. The leaves may dry and drop. The flower buds are often deformed and may fail to open properly.Leaf Spot - Fungal leaf spot occurs on most kinds of ornamental plants. They usually appear first on the lower leaves. They may begin as dark brown, pinhead-sized spots, which sometimes have a yellow halo. Spots may cover an entire leaf. As the spots become more abundant, leaves may yellow, die and drop. Leaf spot is most common in the early spring and fall. Wet conditions usually are necessary for infection. Healthy plants become infected when the fungi spores are slashed onto the infected leaves on the ground, blown to them by wind, or carried by garden tools.Scab - Apples, crabapple and pyracanthat are susceptible to the scab fungus. Symptoms include spots on leaves and fruit and premature defoliation. Scab first appears as olive-green spots on the underside of new leaves. These spots become brown and velvety, then turn yellow and drop prematurely. Fruit may become infected at any time with circular, olive-green spots that later become brown or black. The fungi overwinters in infected leaves and produces spores in the spring.These are the most common diseases that occur in our region.  Again, please remember, these are not the only ones.  Identification of the disease and what to do can be very difficult unless you have been trained.  Like insects, the earlier a disease is diagnosed and treatment begins the better... before major damage occurs.  You have a big investment in your landscape, not to mention how long it would take for trees and shrubs to grow again.  Unless you are thoroughly trained in looking at it all, it is best to consult a certified chemical applicator to monitor it on a regular basis.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2004-03-01 16:16:00

: Last year we had all kinds of problems with insects.  What can we do to get a ‘heads up’ on them for this year?Answer: Since your question did not state what types of trees and shrubs are in your landscape, I will provide some general information about the most common insect problems.  As most of us know, a landscape not only represents a lot of beauty, but also a sizeable investment.  As with most investments, it needs attention.  Every tree and shrub has the possibility of many different types of problems we look for and/or try to prevent.  There are many different kinds of insects and mites that feed on trees and shrubs. Generally, the greater the variety of plants in the landscape, the more insect and mite species you will encounter. The mere presence of an insect or mite on a tree or shrub does not necessarily mean you have to control that problems with insecticides or miticides.Predators such as wasps, ladybugs, and other biological forces play an important part in keeping many insects and mites under control during most years. These forces may break down during some seasons and require the use of chemical and other control measures. Some insects and mites thrive under Kansas climactic conditions so natural forces seem to exert little pressure on them.Some plants require constant attention while others are relatively free of insects and mites. Use non-chemical methods of control whenever possible. Practices, such as sanitation, pruning, use of tolerant species and varieties and the direct removal of pests by hand, are an important part of any control program.Sanitation is the removal and destruction of whole plants. For example, it is a common practice to remove dead and dying elm trees to control Dutch elm disease. This may include removing large branches that are, or may become heavily infested. It may sound wasteful to remove a healthy plant, but if a plant is a potential host or breeding site, you can avoid a heavy infestation to surrounding plants by removing these potential host plants.  Common insect problems to look for:Mites - Several species of mites attack trees and causes the plant to take on an off green color as a result of these sap-sucking pests. Severely infested plants lose their vigor, become unsightly, and may even be killed. If plant foliage begins to turn an off green color and you suspect mites, make a foliage check by holding a piece of white paper under a branch and striking it hard against the paper. The mites are only about 1/50 of an inch in diameter, so you can't see them on the foliage. If the foliage check reveals 10 mites or more, take action.Bagworms - Bagworms will attack and defoliate most evergreens and deciduous trees and shrubs. However, they are particularly destructive to arborvides, cedar, junipers and other ornamental evergreens. Bagworms live inside spindle-shaped bags that they construct while in the larva or caterpillar stage. They construct them out of silk and bits of foliage. They drag these bags wherever they go and use them for protection against their natural enemies. Bagworms overwinter in the egg stage inside the material bag attached to the tree or shrub. The eggs hatch in late May or early June, and small caterpillars begin feeding and constructing the bag in which they stay. You can handpick light infestations, particularly on shrubs and small trees, and burn the bags before the eggs hatch in June. You can also spray half grown to nearly full-grown bagworm caterpillars, but they are difficult to kill.Cankerworms - Cankerworms are known also as measuring worms, inch worms or hoppers. There are two species. Both attack early in the spring just as the leaves are beginning to appear, or they sometimes attack the buds before the leaves open.Beetles - The most damaging leaf beetle in Kansas is the elm leaf beetle. The elm leaf beetle is an introduced pest from Europe, which feeds only on elm. Although most elm species are subject to attack, the beetles usually prefer Siberian elm (commonly called Chinese elm) and hybrid elms. Elm leaf beetle feeding damage may result in partial or complete defoliation of the tree. Severely infested leaves will turn brown, and often drop prematurely. In some cases, the entire tree may be defoliated by mid-summer. The majority of the damage is caused by the larva as it feeds on the lower sides of leaves. Trees that lose many of their leaves as a result of elm leaf beetle damage commonly put out a new flush of growth, which remaining resident insects may consume. Feeding damage by elm leaf beetles seldom kills an elm tree. However, severe feeding will weaken a tree, making it more susceptible to attack by other insects and diseases.Aphids - Hardly a plant exists, cultivated or wild, that is not a host to one or more aphids species. Aphids, like scale insects and the true plant bugs, obtain their food by sucking the sap from plant tissue. Some species feed only on foliage, others on twigs, branches, flowers of fruit, and still others on roots. Many live on several distinct hosts, spending part of their seasonal development on one host and the remainder on another. Aphids are small (seldom over 1/8-in. long), soft-bodied, pear-shaped insects of many colors, such as green, black, gray or red. Most aphids prefer young shoots and leaves. Their attacks may cause serious damage to plants by robbing them of sap, poisoning plants with the salivary secretions injected during feeding, and serving as vectors of viruses that cause galls on leaves, stems and roots. These are the most common insects that are found in our region.  Identification of and what to do with insect infestation can be very difficult unless you have been trained to do so.  It is paramount to do so in the early stages, before major damage occurs.  Before taking the risk of losing the large investment you have in your landscape, I highly recommend consulting with a certified chemical ap

Brad Lechner QUESTION: Last year we had all kinds of problems with insects.  What can we do to get a ‘heads up’ on them for this year?Answer: Since your question did not state what types of trees and shrubs are in your landscape, I will provide some general information about the most common insect problems.  As most of us know, a landscape not only represents a lot of beauty, but also a sizeable investment.  As with most investments, it needs attention.  Every tree and shrub has the possibility of many different types of problems we look for and/or try to prevent.  There are many different kinds of insects and mites that feed on trees and shrubs. Generally, the greater the variety of plants in the landscape, the more insect and mite species you will encounter. The mere presence of an insect or mite on a tree or shrub does not necessarily mean you have to control that problems with insecticides or miticides.Predators such as wasps, ladybugs, and other biological forces play an important part in keeping many insects and mites under control during most years. These forces may break down during some seasons and require the use of chemical and other control measures. Some insects and mites thrive under Kansas climactic conditions so natural forces seem to exert little pressure on them.Some plants require constant attention while others are relatively free of insects and mites. Use non-chemical methods of control whenever possible. Practices, such as sanitation, pruning, use of tolerant species and varieties and the direct removal of pests by hand, are an important part of any control program.Sanitation is the removal and destruction of whole plants. For example, it is a common practice to remove dead and dying elm trees to control Dutch elm disease. This may include removing large branches that are, or may become heavily infested. It may sound wasteful to remove a healthy plant, but if a plant is a potential host or breeding site, you can avoid a heavy infestation to surrounding plants by removing these potential host plants.  Common insect problems to look for:Mites - Several species of mites attack trees and causes the plant to take on an off green color as a result of these sap-sucking pests. Severely infested plants lose their vigor, become unsightly, and may even be killed. If plant foliage begins to turn an off green color and you suspect mites, make a foliage check by holding a piece of white paper under a branch and striking it hard against the paper. The mites are only about 1/50 of an inch in diameter, so you can't see them on the foliage. If the foliage check reveals 10 mites or more, take action.Bagworms - Bagworms will attack and defoliate most evergreens and deciduous trees and shrubs. However, they are particularly destructive to arborvides, cedar, junipers and other ornamental evergreens. Bagworms live inside spindle-shaped bags that they construct while in the larva or caterpillar stage. They construct them out of silk and bits of foliage. They drag these bags wherever they go and use them for protection against their natural enemies. Bagworms overwinter in the egg stage inside the material bag attached to the tree or shrub. The eggs hatch in late May or early June, and small caterpillars begin feeding and constructing the bag in which they stay. You can handpick light infestations, particularly on shrubs and small trees, and burn the bags before the eggs hatch in June. You can also spray half grown to nearly full-grown bagworm caterpillars, but they are difficult to kill.Cankerworms - Cankerworms are known also as measuring worms, inch worms or hoppers. There are two species. Both attack early in the spring just as the leaves are beginning to appear, or they sometimes attack the buds before the leaves open.Beetles - The most damaging leaf beetle in Kansas is the elm leaf beetle. The elm leaf beetle is an introduced pest from Europe, which feeds only on elm. Although most elm species are subject to attack, the beetles usually prefer Siberian elm (commonly called Chinese elm) and hybrid elms. Elm leaf beetle feeding damage may result in partial or complete defoliation of the tree. Severely infested leaves will turn brown, and often drop prematurely. In some cases, the entire tree may be defoliated by mid-summer. The majority of the damage is caused by the larva as it feeds on the lower sides of leaves. Trees that lose many of their leaves as a result of elm leaf beetle damage commonly put out a new flush of growth, which remaining resident insects may consume. Feeding damage by elm leaf beetles seldom kills an elm tree. However, severe feeding will weaken a tree, making it more susceptible to attack by other insects and diseases.Aphids - Hardly a plant exists, cultivated or wild, that is not a host to one or more aphids species. Aphids, like scale insects and the true plant bugs, obtain their food by sucking the sap from plant tissue. Some species feed only on foliage, others on twigs, branches, flowers of fruit, and still others on roots. Many live on several distinct hosts, spending part of their seasonal development on one host and the remainder on another. Aphids are small (seldom over 1/8-in. long), soft-bodied, pear-shaped insects of many colors, such as green, black, gray or red. Most aphids prefer young shoots and leaves. Their attacks may cause serious damage to plants by robbing them of sap, poisoning plants with the salivary secretions injected during feeding, and serving as vectors of viruses that cause galls on leaves, stems and roots. These are the most common insects that are found in our region.  Identification of and what to do with insect infestation can be very difficult unless you have been trained to do so.  It is paramount to do so in the early stages, before major damage occurs.  Before taking the risk of losing the large investment you have in your landscape, I highly recommend consulting with a certified chemical applicator to monitor it on a regular schedule.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Peter Salmeron

2004-03-01 16:02:00

: I've attended the Wichita Garden Show for many years and always enjoy the elaborate, Center Garden displays. My question is, "What happens to all the plants, shrubs, flowers and trees after the Garden Show is over? Do these just die and go to waste?"

ANSWER: The Wichita Garden Show marks the beginning of the gardening and landscaping season. This year's show is March 3-7 at Century II. Center Garden contractors begin planning well in advance of the show date. Many of them begin their design planning in August or September of the previous year. Plant material is ordered and "forced" to bloom in greenhouses during December, January and February so that when the show arrives in March, everything is mature and looks perfect.To answer your question, Center Garden contractors try to sell plant materials during the last day of the show, and usually the prices are discounted. Some of the plant materials may be saved and sold in nurseries or replanted as part of another project. Most of the trees and shrubs can be saved for resale. Unfortunately, many of the flowers, if unsold, are given away, or sadly; they end up in the trash since the weather conditions in early March will not allow flowers to survive outdoors. If you want to save some money, talk to the exhibitors at the show about the plant materials used in their displays. Hopefully you can get a bargain!

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Zach Steven

2003-10-01 16:28:00

: How important is it to winterize my  sprinkler system?  I had it done last year and it didn't work.  Can I do it myself?

ANSWER: The winterizing process removes the water from the pipes to prevent them from bursting when the water freezes and then expands. It is your best protection. Unfortunately, water can get back in after the system has been shut down and winterized. If the main shut off valve is not turned off tight or is leaking internally, even just a little, over the course of the winter it can refill the pipes causing damage. It may be a good idea to have the valve replaced or the problem could reoccur each year. Freezing temperatures can also cause the ground to shift resulting in some underground damage. This is hard to protect against as it even causes concrete to crack.   Whether or not you can reliably winterize your system yourself depends on how many heads you have on any one zone. The more heads you have on a zone the larger the air compressor must be.  As is normally the case in these kinds of situations, it is most often best to let people 'who do it for a living' winterize your system.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2003-09-01 14:53:00

: Should you aerate and then slit seed as one process?   

ANSWER:  If you are trying to establish new seed, slit seeding, or verta-slice seeding, could be done right after aerating. The verta-slice seeding process may actually speed up the degradation of the cores left on the surface and permit a better seed to soil contact. However, for casual seeding, an aeration followed by overseeding and dragging can be sufficient.    QUESTION:  I have crabgrass and clover growing in my yard. I would like to know how to get rid of these pests. Should I gather my clippings and not use them in my compost?   ANSWER:  Crabgrass and clover both tend to invade lawns that have thinned for some reason and allowed the weeds to invade. Crabgrass, an annual grass, often occurs in lawns that are mowed too short, although there are other reasons the lawn may have thinned. Clover, a perennial broadleaf weed, often thrives in lawns that do not get enough fertilizer.  The first suggestion would be to follow sound lawn care practices to get the lawn growing thicker and more vigorously. Crabgrass will die off this fall. Preemergence herbicides could be used to help prevent a repeat invasion next season. Clover, since it is a perennial, will not die out on its own. For optimum control, herbicides are the best way to control these perennial weeds. September would be a good time to treat them. As far as returning clippings after mowing, there is no reason not to.    QUESTION:  I think I have some type of bent grass. It started in areas near the down spouts and has now spread across the lawn, primarily in circular patches. As the temperature cools and the moisture is replenished it seems to be taking over the lawn. Where does it come from, and how do I get rid of it ?   ANSWER:  It does sound like bent grass. Bent grass likes moisture and higher levels of fertility. At high heights of cut, it tends to be shallow-rooted and pulls up easily. Bent grass will spread via stolons. Reducing nitrogen applications and water may help reduce spread somewhat, although you still need to make sure the Kentucky bluegrass is getting enough fertilizer to stay competitive. There is no selective way to treat bent grass in a bluegrass lawn. The patches will either have to be torn out or sprayed. In either case, it will be necessary to reseed or re-sod. Now would be a good time to address the problem, then mid-September would be a good time to re-seed. Bent grass can get started in a lawn through a variety of ways. It may have been in the original seed mix as a contaminant, for example, and then gradually got established and became more visible in the lawn. Perhaps the seed or stolons got carried onto your lawn some way.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2003-08-01 11:28:00

: I have two large female dogs. The grass has died in all of their favorite "potty" spots. Is there some sort of chemical that I need to apply to revive this grass? Can I prevent it from continuing to happen?   

ANSWER: Dog urine and feces can be a frustrating lawn care problem. Small amounts may produce a green up or fertilizer effect while larger amounts result in lawn burn or dead patches. While most burn spots recover with time, dead areas can be large enough in some cases to require reseeding or sodding. Homeowners, who are also dog lovers, are presented with a dilemma, particularly when one family member prefers the dog and another prefers a well-manicured lawn.    The presence of urine or feces on the lawn is related to the nitrogen content and concentration of these waste products. Urine, when produced as a waste product in animals, removes excess nitrogen from the body via the kidneys. Nitrogen waste products are the result of protein breakdown through normal bodily processes. Carnivores, including cats and dogs, have a significant protein requirement, and urine volume/production varies due to animal size and metabolism. Urine is a more serious problem for lawns because it is applied all at once as a liquid fertilizer, whereas feces slowly release the waste products over time. Since stools are usually solid, owners have the option of frequent removal. With more time for the waste to dissolve into the lawn, stools that are frequently removed, damage lawns less than urine.   The primary concern from urine damage to lawns is minimizing the nitrogen concentration added to the lawn at any single time. Female dogs, being less likely to urine mark and more likely to squat, are the primary culprits of lawn damage since they will urinate anywhere on a lawn and usually all at once. This results in a single nitrogen dump confined to a small patch of grass. The resulting brown spot often have a green ring around the outside. The nitrogen overload at the center causes the burn, but as the urine dilutes toward the edges, it has a fertilizer effect. This characteristic brown spot / green ring pattern has been called "female dog spot disease" by some horticulturists. As might be expected, lawns most susceptible to nitrogen burns are ones where standard fertilizers are maximized in the lawn. Homeowners making the extra effort to have a green lawn may be quite discouraged by their neighbor's dog damage or their own pet's potty residue. Usually, only the grass blades die and the roots remain intact and will usually grow back in time. However, when the dogs use the same spots repeatedly, which they probably do if they're like mine, then eventually the grass roots will die as well.   Different types of grasses react differently. Kentucky 31 (fescue) and Lolium perrene (perennial ryegrass) are the most resistant to urine effects. In fact, the urine routinely produced a fertilizer effect on these grasses at diluted concentrations. Kentucky bluegrass and Bermuda grass react very sensitively to any urine concentration and severe burn results. Even on the most urine resistant grass, fescue, urine concentration was a bigger problem than urine volume. Concentrated urine with volumes as little as 30cc (one ounce) caused lawn burn even on fescue grasses.   You might check their diet and make sure that they're not getting too much protein (raw meats, etc.). An article I read several months ago also talked about adding tomato juice to the dog's diet or baking soda to it's water.  In addition, if you feed them only once a day, you might break up the feedings into two meals like breakfast and dinner to help dilute the protein. Don't overfeed the animals, particularly prepared people food. Increasing the dogs water intake will help. Also, watering the areas of frequent urination will help to wash-away and dissolve the protein residue.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2003-07-01 10:56:00

: What does the term “landscape theory” mean?  How does a landscape specialist go about designing a landscape?

ANSWER: (See part 1 in June ‘03 issue)  With the basic elements defined, it is time to put them to practical use. In planning a landscape design it is necessary to work with the "principles" that stem directly from the basic elements. How effectively you implement these principles will determine the impact of your landscaping upon the viewer -- be it yourself or a prospective buyer.    Since this introduction to landscape  design theory is meant as a practical guide, the goal is not to provide abstract definitions, but examples that can be implemented in landscaping work immediately.    Three landscape design principles apply to the overall "feel" of the landscape: namely, proportion, transition and unity. Proportion is the sense that the size of the individual components or groups of components in a landscape is consistent with the landscape as a whole. In other words, the idea behind proportion is very similar to that behind the basic element, scale. But the difference is that, while "scale" is a neutral term, "proportion" is based on the premise that something is either "in proportion" or "out of proportion." A landscape that is out of proportion is one that is marred by abrupt transitions or by the lack of transition. For instance, a five-foot high stone wall might elegantly set off a large home, but would make a small home look all the smaller. The landscaping of the latter suffers from a lack of transition: the height of the wall is too close to that of the house. Transition, simply put, refers to gradual change.    Conforming to a sense of proportion is, in turn, one characteristic of a landscape that exhibits unity. Unity, or "harmony" has been achieved when the viewer senses that all the individual elements of a landscape complement each other and have been chosen with one over-arching theme in mind. The placement of landscape components in a thoughtful manner regarding their form is one method for promoting a unified feel. For instance, small trees flanking a driveway or an entrance should have the same form. Repetition also promotes unity. Like all good things, however, unity can be pushed too far. Introduce some variety, or "contrast" into a landscape.  One way is through the use of plants that vary in texture. The element texture, is subtle enough that it can be employed to inject variety into a landscape without destroying unity.    The next group of three landscape design principles, like proportion, transition and unity, are interrelated: namely, rhythm, balance and focalization. They all pertain to controlling a viewer's eye movement. Rythym in general is the patterned repetition of a motif, and in a landscaping project, specifically, it will be one or more of the basic elements of landscaping that will comprise the motif. The essential element here is line, since nothing control's eye movement more readily than a straight line. The objective of utilizing such a motif is to direct eye movement, unconsciously, in a manner that is most conducive to appreciating the landscape in question. For instance, perhaps the situation of your land holds the potential for a magnificent vista, but your current landscaping does not take full advantage of it. Or perhaps you have a piece of statuary in your front yard that you want to show off. But if your front yard is full of other interesting items, it might be too "busy" for that item to receive sufficient focus. These and other problems of rhythm can be solved through an understanding of balance and focalization.    Balance refers to consistency of visual attraction and applies to all five of the basic elements: consistency with form, with texture, etc. Understanding balance is, in turn, important for an understanding of focalization. Focalization is the forcing of the viewer's perspective to a focal point. More intense focalization is created through the use of balanced, consistent arrangements of elements.    Let's return, then, to the two problems introjected above. The first is a problem of framing and can be solved by reducing clutter, opting instead for minimalist landscaping with bold, straight lines. The second, a problem of drawing attention to one component in a busy front yard, could be solved by the use either of color or of line. The statue could be surrounded with color that would direct the viewer's eye unconsciously to that area. Planting flowers that are red or yellow en masse would do the trick nicely. So would an appropriate use of line. For instance, a straight path of paving stones leading up to the statuary, or bedding plants arranged so as to form a straight edging that will focus the viewer's gaze in the intended direction.    It will be seen from the foregoing discussion that landscape design principles refer to nothing more ethereal than simply arranging the basic elements in combinations that bespeak a well-reasoned plan. While not pretending to be an exhaustive discussion, the above examples should nonetheless serve to settle fears that landscape design is the exclusive province of wizards with unfathomable powers. Landscape design is the province not of wizardry, but of planning, problem-solving and a "principled" approach.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Peter Salmeron

2003-06-01 16:04:00

: What are the best ways to market my business to the Hispanic community in Wichita?  Are there any cultural issues I should be aware of or sensitive to?

ANSWER: The best way to attract business from Hispanics is to advertise on Hispanic TV. Wichita has one station, channel 56.  There are also several radio stations, newspapers and magazines that are in spanish. Church newsletters are another alternative, particularly those with a large number of Hispanic members. Our Lady of Perpetual Help is a local congregation with over 1,200 Spanish families, or,  the main Cathedral at Central and Broadway in Wichita.  There are two recently formed Hispanic Chambers of Commerce, one is a branch of the main chamber and the other is dedicated to Hispanics; personal networking is important and both chambers provide the opportunity to meet Hispanic business people on a personal basis.   Surveys indicate that Hispanics are brand loyal and they tend to stick with what they are familiar with.  At the same time, if you show enough interest in their culture and advertise in Spanish you will most likely get their loyalty on your side.   Many Hispanics have difficulty with English, so if you get them to your store after all the advertising, I would recommend that you have a Spanish-speaking person to be able to communicate with them. Most Hispanics are not window shoppers.  If you see them in a store, it is because they are in the "buying mode."   Another good way to become well-known in the Hispanic community is by sponsoring  holiday events such as Cinco de Mayo, September 16th or Our Lady of Guadalupe anniversary.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2003-06-01 10:13:00

: What does the term "landscape design theory" mean? How does a landscape specialist go about designing a landscape.

ANSWER: The term "landscape design theory" sounds rather imposing, doesn't it? And, to be sure, one could spend years studying all the ideas in the field of landscape design. But what if you simply need to give your lawn and gardens a makeover? If you need to spruce up the landscape design of a house that you are about to sell, or if you simply want to enjoy an enhanced design for your home's lawn and gardens, you could profit from a straightforward, no-nonsense look at the ideas behind landscape design theory.    Whenever something is put together, you are engaged in designing, however humble the project. Sometimes designs are taken for granted, because what is being put together is so commonplace that we are no longer conscious of the designing process. For instance, you are employing design techniques when you compose a letter to send to somebody. Your basic design "elements" to accomplish such a task include vocabulary, spelling and grammar. Somewhat more complex elements, or design "principles" build directly on the basic elements. Letter-writing principles include conveying your ideas clearly and coming across as a courteous, intelligent individual. Your success with these principles will largely determine whether or not your letter achieves its ultimate objective.    And so it is with landscape design theory. First you must learn the basic design elements that underlie all landscape design theory. These fundamental elements will then serve as building blocks for learning and implementing the more advanced principles of landscape design theory. These tried and true principles are the cornerstones of the world's most beautiful gardens.    The basic elements of landscape design theory are:  Color, Form, Line, Scale, and Texture.  These five elements must be considered in designing both the hardscape and softscape of a landscape, the latter consisting mainly of gardens, lawns, shrubs and trees. While color is self-explanatory, and scale is simply the size of one component relative to adjacent components, the other elements require some more in-depth explanation.    The element of form is defined as the shape of a plant and the structure of its branching pattern. Trees come in many shapes (especially if pruned), including columnar and globular shapes. Likewise, tree forms range structurally from having the stiffly upright branches of a European poplar to the droopy quality of a weeping willow. The form of individual components of a plant also needs to be considered. For example, the leaves of one type of tree can possess a form different from that of another type of tree. Leaf form has a great impact on the overall appearance of the tree, including its texture.    But the element of form cannot be completely separated from the element of texture. Since texture is primarily a visual matter in landscape design theory, we often rely on the form of a plant to draw conclusions about its perceived texture. Texture is also a highly relative term: it refers to how the surface of an object is perceived, relative to the objects around it. Thus the foliage texture of one bedding plant, for example, might be more or less coarse than that of an adjacent plant.    The element of line refers to the fact that the viewer's eye movement or flow can be governed by the arrangement of plants and their borders. Eye movement is unconsciously influenced by the way plant groupings fit or flow together, both on the horizontal and vertical planes.    Enough about the basic elements. Let's move on to the principles of landscape design theory. Because the effective application of the latter can raise the value of your real estate significantly.    In the next issue, we will put these basic elements to practical use.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2003-05-01 11:49:00

: When is the best time to landscape?

ANSWER:  Overall, Spring is the best time to landscape. Getting the plants established before the hot weather sets in is important. Summer isn't a bad time, but it can be hot and it’s essential to keep things watered. Fall is also a good time. In the fall, you can landscape until it starts to get cold, and the ground starts to freeze. If the ground isn't frozen you can landscape, but sod or grass seed won't grow until it gets warmer. It's best to leave that step out if you plant close to winter.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Peter Salmeron

2003-04-01 12:22:00

:  We want to add some plants that will improve the looks of our back yard, but ones that will not require a tremendous amount of care.  Can you give us some ideas of different ones we should consider and when would be the best time to plant them?  We have a big back yard with several trees so it would be important to also know which ones would work in shade and which need to be in the sun.

ANSWER:  The numbers of plant material available for different needs and likes is very large.  Facts to consider to select plant material will include height and width, color of plant material and location, which may be sunny, or partial shade or shaded.  The best time to plant trees is usually late fall, when they go dormant; the best time to plant shrubs is usually early spring.  Try not to plant if the temperature is lower than 37 degrees or over 90 degrees.  When shopping for plant material read the label.  It will tell you the height, width and color during the change of the season.  It will also tell you if your selection will do well in the sun or the shade.A good selection for shade is hostas.  There are several different species (i.e.ivy, coloratus, ferns, Japanese maples, Eeuonymus, etc).  Some recommendations for sun would be forsythia, evergreens, burning bush, spirea and bahia.It is important that you consider how the plant material will grow, particularly trees when you plant them close to structures such as houses.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Peter Salmeron

2003-04-01 11:38:00

:  We were given 50 pounds of Riviera Bermuda grass seed from my wife's aunt in Phoenix. She said it had been in her garage for a couple of years. Is it still good? Is it recommended for lawns in Kansas? Would we be better off with something else?

ANSWER:  If you have stored grass seed, regardless of what type of grass it is, the longer it is stored the less viable the seed will become. This means that the germination of the seed will be reduced, the longer the storage period, the less viable seed. Of course it is important you store the seed in a dry place with little light and no humidity; most people will store seed in their garage which is not the best place because garages are subject to extreme conditions in Kansas, in summer it gets very hot and in winter gets very cold, reducing the viability of the seed even further. In my opinion if you have seed that is over a year old, it is better just to buy a new bag of seed. To seed a lawn it takes a lot of work, you need to kill existing grass, rototill, level, fertilize and then seed. If the seed is not viable, you just wasted a lot of effort, it is better to buy "fresh" seed. When you go to the store look at the tag that comes in the bag, the tag will tell you the date the seed was harvested, its viability, the percentage of weeds within the bag as well as other variety of seeds that may be present.My recommendation for seeding is to use a blend called "Kansas Premium Fescue Mix". The grass does not require a lot of water to have a nice green color and is very disease resistant, it is also a "cool season" grass which means that is will be green from March to the end of November depending on the weather.Bermuda is a "warm season grass" which means it greens in May and goes dormant in October, it is also sensitive to the cold weather and in many cases you will see dead grass patches due to freezing. You also need to "dethach" the bermuda grass every other year to prevent fungus growth.There has been a lot of research done in grasses and scientists come up with new improved varieties frequently. The type of grasses we used 10 years ago are not the best anymore. Of course there are also different applications and needs to consider so you may want to call an expert for their opinion on your particular needs.832-0061 or by email at petersalmeron@lycos.com

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Darlita Arnold

2003-03-01 14:09:00

:  What can I plant in my garden in March?

ANSWER:  Although it may seem harsh to plant new plants outside when temperatures are freezing, March is actually an optimum time to plant many perennials, trees, shrubs, evergreens, cool season vegetables, perennial herbs, and cold tolerant annuals.  Planting in early spring gives these plants the most time to get established in your garden before they are faced with the summer heat and dry weather.Hardy perennials such as Columbine 'Roman Bronze', and the new 'Origami' series, Creeping Phlox 'Emerald Blue' and 'Crimson Beauty', Hellebores, Scabiosa 'Blue Butterfly' and 'Pink Mist', Sedum 'Angelina' and 'Autumn Fire', Salvia 'Caradonna', and 'Marcus', Veronica 'Georgia Blue' and 'Royal Candles', and Yarrow 'Red Beauty' and 'Moonshine', will all liven up your flower beds!  While numerous perennials thrive when planted outside, it is important to make sure the plants you are purchasing in early spring have been acclimated to the outside temperatures.  If they have not been acclimated to cold temperatures (often referred to as being "hardened off"), even young perennials can die from a freeze.Trees, shrubs, and evergreens are also best planted when temperatures are cool.  Some tried and true trees for Kansas include Crabapple 'Prairie Fire' and Flame Amur Maple.  Some tough shrubs for Kansas are Burning Bush 'Fire Ball', Rose of Sharon 'Blue Satin', Lilac 'Tinkerbelle', and Viburnum 'Summer Snowflake'.While tomatoes and peppers cannot be planted until later in the spring, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, kale, leeks, lettuce, mustard, parsnips, radishes, salad greens, swiss chard, and turnips should be planted in March.  These cool season vegetables must get established and do most of their growing before warm temperatures arrive.  Potatoes, onions, asparagus, and rhubarb can all be planted in early spring as well.Some herbs are annuals and only live for one year, while others are perennials and will come back year after year.  Some great perennial herbs are Catnip, Chives, Garlic, Horseradish, Lavender, Mint, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, French Tarragon, and Thyme.  These herbs are great addition to salads, beverages, hot tea, desserts, entres, and vegetables.  Some herbs are better known for their aromatic or medicinal uses, as opposed to being added to culinary dishes.Although annuals only live for one season and are generally very susceptible to freezing temperatures, some annuals actually prefer cool weather.  Pansies, Violas, Dianthus, Osteospermums, Marguerite daisies, Nemesia, Nierembergia, and Snapdragons all bloom best in the cool spring weather.  Pansies and violas will withstand freezing temperatures.  However, the other annuals mentioned must be protected from freezing weather.  For this reason, many cool season annuals are great planted in containers (12" in diameter and larger).  Growing your annuals in containers allows you to just bring the container into an insulated garage if a freeze is forecasted!The benefits of planting your garden in March are enormous:~ Cold hardy plants have a longer time to get established in your garden before the weather turns hot, giving you a nicer, fuller garden with less effort.~ The early spring rains help the plants get rooted in.~ Insects are less prevalent in early spring, helping your plants get off to a healthy start without competition from garden pests.~ It lengthens the gardening season, giving you more time to enjoy your hobby and have fun playing in the dirt!~ It gives you a "cure" for spring fever- or perhaps it makes the desire to garden stronger, which is a great "problem" to have!~ You get first pick of all the new plants available in 2003.~ It gives you more time to visit your favorite garden centers.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Peter Salmeron

2003-02-01 15:30:00

:  We want to add some plants that will improve the looks of our back yard, but ones that will not require a tremendous amount of care.  Can you give us some ideas of different ones we should consider and when would be the best time to plant them?  We have a big back yard with several trees so it would be important to also know which ones would work in shade and which need to be in the sun.

ANSWER:  The numbers of plant material available for different needs and likes is very large.  Facts to consider to select plant material will include height and width, color of plant material and location, which may be sunny, or partial shade or shaded.  The best time to plant trees is usually late fall, when they go dormant; the best time to plant shrubs is usually early spring.  Try not to plant if the temperature is lower than 37 degrees or over 90 degrees.  When shopping for plant material read the label.  It will tell you the height, width and color during the change of the season.  It will also tell you if your selection will do well in the sun or the shade.A good selection for shade is hostas.  There are several different species (i.e.ivy, coloratus, ferns, Japanese maples, Eeuonymus, etc).  Some recommendations for sun would be forsythia, evergreens, burning bush, spirea and bahia.It is important that you consider how the plant material will grow, particularly trees when you plant them close to structures such as houses.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Peter Salmeron

2002-11-01 15:46:00

: Who makes up the U.S. Hispanic Population ? What does the term "La Raza" mean and what is its origin? What is proper... he is Mexican. he is Hispanic....he is Latino? What is the Office of Hispanic Affairs? Is it a State Agency? if so, do all states have one? What does it do?

Peter Salmeron QUESTIONS: Who makes up the U.S. Hispanic Population ? What does the term "La Raza" mean and what is its origin? What is proper... he is Mexican. he is Hispanic....he is Latino? What is the Office of Hispanic Affairs? Is it a State Agency? if so, do all states have one? What does it do?ANSWERS:  66 percent are Mexican, Cuban 4%, Puerto Rican 9%, Central and South American 14.5%, other hispanic origin 6.4 %. Projections show that Hispanics are the fastest growing minority. The Hispanic population will continue to increase at a fast rate in many areas exceeding the Afro American population.La Raza means "The Race" which is an ethnocentric term to describe mainly the Mexican population.La Raza is a political organization and it is the result of the political activism created in the 1960sIt took a militant line,organizing under working class issues in California, Colorado and Texas. La Raza held its first national convention in 1972, the main figures were Jose Angel Gutierrez, Corky Gonzales, Reyes Lopez Tijerina and Cesar Chavez.You can call a Mexican Hispanic or Latino, you can not call a South American Mexican, but you can call him Hispanic or Latino.  Mainly people from Puerto Rico, Cuba, Central and South America are called Hispanics. Mexicans are from Mexico.Latinos are people from French, Italian or Spanish genetic background born in Central or South America. Most of the south american and Mexican people have a Spanish and Indian ancestry and they are called Hispanics. Sometimes it is better to ask before you make assumptions, most people will be glad to explain; just remember that not all Latinos or Hispanics are Mexican.The office of Hispanic Affairs is a State agency created in 1974 by Governor Robert Docking to eliminate official neglect of Hispanics and provide opportunities for the advancement of Hispanics in Kansas. The office of Hispanic Affairs gathers and disseminates information on hispanics and hispanic issues and it serves as a liaison between the hispanic public and the government.It helps coordination between public and private organizations to serve hispanics, stimulates public awareness on behalf of Hispanics and provides training programs for community leadership. Many other states have a Hispanic Affairs office and so does the Federal Government.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2002-08-01 10:25:00

:  I now have brown patches all over the lawn from what I believe is fungus. I have been putting down diazanion fairly regularly for the bugs and such.  What can I use for the fungus?  Someone told me to use mouthwash.  Do you have any ideas?

Brad Lechner Question:  I now have brown patches all over the lawn from what I believe is fungus. I have been putting down diazanion fairly regularly for the bugs and such.  What can I use for the fungus?  Someone told me to use mouthwash.  Do you have any ideas?Answer:  NO MOUTHWASH!!!!!!!!!  You must spray a fungicide like Daconil Ultrex. It's pretty expensive but it is a great chemical. Unfortunately for you, the damage is done. It is likely that the grass will grow back eventually. What you probably have infecting your lawn is a fungus referred to as "brown patch". If the disease does not stop spreading, then you must spray for it. Don't worry too much about spraying fungicide and your health.Humans are not really related to fungi and the method of action from chemicals against the fungi won't hurt you (too badly). But still, keep the kids of from the turf for at least a day. Don't spray when rain is threatening. The chemical must be allowed at least 24 hours to enter the plants. The best idea is to have someone with a pesticide applicators license do this for you. I hope this helps you.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2002-07-01 12:22:00

Question:  Are there some tree and shrub diseases that are more prevalent than others?

Answer:  There are many things that can happen to trees and shrubs.  Last issue we talked about insects.  This issue we will talk about the most common  disease problems to look for.Scale - Scale insects have a shell-like, waxy covering on their bodies. Scale insects feed by sucking sap from trees and shrubs and are capable of killing entire plants or parts of the plant. Scale insect feeding can also reduce the plant's vigor, making it more susceptible to injury caused by drought, severe winters, and attacks by other insects and diseases. Plants are often covered by a sooty mold. The sooty mold gives the plant a blackish appearance. Most species of trees and shrubs are subject to scale insects.Fireblight - Certain varieties of apple, flowering crab, pear, pyracantha, cherry and quince are highly susceptible to fireblight. Hawthorns, cotoneaster and spirea are affected less seriously. Signs of the fireblight are blossoms and leaves that suddenly wilt, turn dark brown, shrivel and die, but remain attached. The bacteria overwinters in canker on the plants. They are spread by wind-blowing rain, insects and pruning tools.Powder Mildew - Common hosts are roses, crabapple and lilac. Powder mildew may produce a white powdery coating on the leaves, buds or stems of highly susceptible plants. New growth is stunted and curled on roses. The leaves may dry and drop. The flower buds are often deformed and may fail to open properly.Leaf Spot - Fungal leaf spot occurs on most kinds of ornamental plants. They usually appear first on the lower leaves. They may begin as dark brown, pinhead-sized spots, which sometimes have a yellow halo. Spots may cover an entire leaf. As the spots become more abundant, leaves may yellow, die and drop. Leaf spot is most common in the early spring and fall. Wet conditions usually are necessary for infection. Healthy plants become infected when the fungi spores are slashed onto the infected leaves on the ground, blown to them by wind, or carried by garden tools.Scab - Apples, crabapple and pyracanthat are susceptible to the scab fungus. Symptoms include spots on leaves and fruit and premature defoliation. Scab first appears as olive-green spots on the underside of new leaves. These spots become brown and velvety, then turn yellow and drop prematurely. Fruit may become infected at any time with circular, olive-green spots that later become brown or black. The fungi overwinters in infected leaves and produces spores in the spring.These are the most common diseases that occur in our region.  Again, please remember, these are not the only ones.  Identification of the disease and what to do can be very difficult unless you have been trained.  Like insects, the earlier a disease is diagnosed and treatment begins the better... before major damage occurs.  You have a big investment in your landscape, not to mention how long it would take for trees and shrubs to grow again.  Unless you are thoroughly trained in looking at it all, it is best to consult a certified chemical applicator to monitor it on a regular basis.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2002-06-01 15:05:00

Question:  Last year we had all kinds of problems with insects.  What can we do to get a ‘heads up’ on them for this year?

Answer:    Since your question did not state what types of trees and shrubs are in your landscape, I will provide some general information about the most common insect problems.  As most of us know, a landscape not only represents a lot of beauty, but also a sizeable investment.  As with most investments, it needs attention.  Every tree and shrub has the possibility of many different types of problems we look for and/or try to prevent.  There are many different kinds of insects and mites that feed on trees and shrubs. Generally, the greater the variety of plants in the landscape, the more insect and mite species you will encounter. The mere presence of an insect or mite on a tree or shrub does not necessarily mean you have to control that problems with insecticides or miticides.Predators such as wasps, ladybugs, and other biological forces play an important part in keeping many insects and mites under control during most years. These forces may break down during some seasons and require the use of chemical and other control measures. Some insects and mites thrive under Kansas climactic conditions so natural forces seem to exert little pressure on them.Some plants require constant attention while others are relatively free of insects and mites. Use non-chemical methods of control whenever possible. Practices, such as sanitation, pruning, use of tolerant species and varieties and the direct removal of pests by hand, are an important part of any control program.Sanitation is the removal and destruction of whole plants. For example, it is a common practice to remove dead and dying elm trees to control Dutch elm disease. This may include removing large branches that are, or may become heavily infested. It may sound wasteful to remove a healthy plant, but if a plant is a potential host or breeding site, you can avoid a heavy infestation to surrounding plants by removing these potential host plants.  Common insect problems to look for:Mites - Several species of mites attack trees and causes the plant to take on an off green color as a result of these sap-sucking pests. Severely infested plants lose their vigor, become unsightly, and may even be killed. If plant foliage begins to turn an off green color and you suspect mites, make a foliage check by holding a piece of white paper under a branch and striking it hard against the paper. The mites are only about 1/50 of an inch in diameter, so you can't see them on the foliage. If the foliage check reveals 10 mites or more, take action.Bagworms - Bagworms will attack and defoliate most evergreens and deciduous trees and shrubs. However, they are particularly destructive to arborvides, cedar, junipers and other ornamental evergreens. Bagworms live inside spindle-shaped bags that they construct while in the larva or caterpillar stage. They construct them out of silk and bits of foliage. They drag these bags wherever they go and use them for protection against their natural enemies. Bagworms overwinter in the egg stage inside the material bag attached to the tree or shrub. The eggs hatch in late May or early June, and small caterpillars begin feeding and constructing the bag in which they stay. You can handpick light infestations, particularly on shrubs and small trees, and burn the bags before the eggs hatch in June. You can also spray half grown to nearly full-grown bagworm caterpillars, but they are difficult to kill.Cankerworms - Cankerworms are known also as measuring worms, inch worms or hoppers. There are two species. Both attack early in the spring just as the leaves are beginning to appear, or they sometimes attack the buds before the leaves open.Beetles - The most damaging leaf beetle in Kansas is the elm leaf beetle. The elm leaf beetle is an introduced pest from Europe, which feeds only on elm. Although most elm species are subject to attack, the beetles usually prefer Siberian elm (commonly called Chinese elm) and hybrid elms. Elm leaf beetle feeding damage may result in partial or complete defoliation of the tree. Severely infested leaves will turn brown, and often drop prematurely. In some cases, the entire tree may be defoliated by mid-summer. The majority of the damage is caused by the larva as it feeds on the lower sides of leaves. Trees that lose many of their leaves as a result of elm leaf beetle damage commonly put out a new flush of growth, which remaining resident insects may consume. Feeding damage by elm leaf beetles seldom kills an elm tree. However, severe feeding will weaken a tree, making it more susceptible to attack by other insects and diseases.Aphids - Hardly a plant exists, cultivated or wild, that is not a host to one or more aphids species. Aphids, like scale insects and the true plant bugs, obtain their food by sucking the sap from plant tissue. Some species feed only on foliage, others on twigs, branches, flowers of fruit, and still others on roots. Many live on several distinct hosts, spending part of their seasonal development on one host and the remainder on another. Aphids are small (seldom over 1/8-in. long), soft-bodied, pear-shaped insects of many colors, such as green, black, gray or red. Most aphids prefer young shoots and leaves. Their attacks may cause serious damage to plants by robbing them of sap, poisoning plants with the salivary secretions injected during feeding, and serving as vectors of viruses that cause galls on leaves, stems and roots. These are the most common insects that are found in our region.  Identification of and what to do with insect infestation can be very difficult unless you have been trained to do so.  It is paramount to do so in the early stages, before major damage occurs.  Before taking the risk of losing the large investment you have in your landscape, I highly recommend consulting with a certified chemical applicator to monitor it on a regular schedule.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Peter Salmeron

2002-05-01 08:53:00

:  I am planning to replant my lawn. I want the yard to look good, but I would like to conserve water in the summer. Are there native grasses that like the Kansas climate and at the same time make the lawn look good? Is it proper to have two or three different types of grasses planted in a lawn?

Peter Salmeron Question:  I am planning to replant my lawn. I want the yard to look good, but I would like to conserve water in the summer. Are there native grasses that like the Kansas climate and at the same time make the lawn look good? Is it proper to have two or three different types of grasses planted in a lawn?Answer:  If you want a nice yard, the first thing you need to do is to be sure that your soil type has a balanced proportion of nitrogen, potassium and other organic compounds. To find out about your soil, take a sample and send it to your local County Extension office. In Sedgwick County the Extension Office is located at 7001 West 21st Street and their phone number is 316-722-7721. For a small fee they will forward your soil sample to the Kansas State University Research Center. You will get the results in a couple of weeks. Once you know what type of soil you have you can improve it.  For example, you may need to add gypsum, if the soil has too much clay; or, perhaps sand to improve drainage; peat moss to help increase organic compounds. When you are choosing the best grass for your lawn, you may want to use either Zoysia, or Bermuda grass, if you want to conserve water in the summer. These grasses are considered "warm" season grasses and do not require much water. These "warm" grasses are only green from May through late September. The "cool" grasses, such as Fescue or Blue Grass, require more water and turn green in March and will stay green until December. They are, in my opinion, more resistant to certain diseases such as those caused by fungus and are more resistant to certain insects. Another choice is "Buffalo Grass." It requires very little water and it does not need to be mowed very often, however, it takes a couple of years to get established and it does not get as thick as other grasses. Therefore, your chances of having to fight weeds is greater. It is important to remember that so far no scientist has developed "the perfect" grass. They have made substantial improvements recently with new varieties of Fescues that do not grow as fast, require less water and are more disease resistant.It is a good idea to have two or three types of the same variety of grass with different traits, when you are replanting your lawn. This will help to prevent diseases from overtaking your lawn. The word here is "blending!" When you purchase new grass seed, we recommend for example, that you purchase a blend of Fescue seed.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2002-04-01 16:17:00

Question:  What can we do about moles?  Here it is Spring and we’ve already got them.  What do we do?  Why do moles create tunnels and hills?  What do they eat?  If I have a hundred mole hills do I have a hundred moles?  I have heard that moles are quite territorial (i.e. moles defend their own territory and are loners), is this true? How do they choose to dig where they do?

Answer:  Believe it or not, moles are part of a healthy ecological system. They indicate that the soil is strong, and that beneficial insects and organisms are present. But if you’re like most home owners, you’d rather not have them burrowing under your yard or garden.There’s a lot of debate about the best methods to get rid of these clever, persistent pests. Ideas in vogue range from castor-oil/liquid detergent solutions and trapping to using the noise of a lawnmower to scare them away. One thing we know for sure is that the best way to get rid of moles is decidedly not to use pesticides, which can harm other wildlife, pets and children as well.There are several different varieties of moles in the Midwest. Moles, which eat worms, slugs and soil insects, play an important ecological role. They dig tunnels underground, which create channels for air and water to move through the soil. The problem is that the tunnels create weak spots and holes in a lawn. The moles also push mounds of soil to the surface.We think the best solution is to tolerate moles when possible, since they play such a beneficial role in the ecology. But if you must get rid of them, the most effective way we know is through trapping them. We don’t offer this service ourselves, but there some companies in the area that specialize in trapping moles. If you want to do trapping yourself, the best time is in the early spring when the first burrows are seen, or after the first fall rains. Trapping in the early spring can eliminate pregnant females, thus reducing the possibility of having to contend with a family of moles. Traps should be set in active burrows (you can tell by rolling or tramping down the ridges and then observing which ones are raised again). If a trap is not sprung in two days, move it to another location. Answer:  Moles create tunnels for two purposes, traveling and feeding. The mounds or "mole hills" are excess dirt that has been mined away by the mole to create these tunnels.Answer:  Contrary to common conception of moles eating tulip bulbs and freshly laid lawn seed, moles are almost entirely carnivorous. The diet of a mole is primarily comprised of worms. Moles have incredible appetites and can eat up to their body weight in worms every day (some reports questionably state that moles eat 2 - 3 times their body weight).Answer:  No, most mole problems consist of one or two moles doing a considerable amount of damage. A good indication of how many moles you may have is to clear all the hills away with a rake, and determine how many areas are active concurrently by observing where the new mole hills are being created. If you have mole activity in both the front and back yard in one night, there is a possibility you have more than one mole. If you have only one area active at a time, you may have only one mole. There is no concrete way of determining exactly how many moles there are until moles are trapped and there is no more activity. Answer:  We have heard this many times too, but don't believe moles are as territorial as most people believe. We have seen some mole problems where there are two or three moles active in very close proximity, and we have seen hugely spread-out problems that were the work of one very busy mole. We don't have a good answer for this other than "it depends…"Answer:  How much moles dig and where moles choose to reside is a function of a few variables: moisture, pH balance of the soil, warmth, and vegetation. The most likely place to find a mole is in a moderately moist, relatively temperate, heavily vegetated soil with fairly low acidity (such as gardens, golf courses, and well-kept lawns). These conditions are found during the late spring, summer, and early fall so mole activity is much more intense during these periods.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Peter Salmeron

2002-04-01 14:47:00

:  Why is that many lawn care people prefer to keep your grass so long throughout the year.  It seems like a couple of days after they mow it needs to be mowed again. 

Peter Salmeron Question:  Why is that many lawn care people prefer to keep your grass so long throughout the year.  It seems like a couple of days after they mow it needs to be mowed again.  Answer:  Keeping your lawn a bit long will produce stronger, healthier grass with fewer pest problems. Longer grass has more leaf surface to take in sunlight. This enables it to grow thicker and develop a deeper roof system, which in turn helps the grass survive drought, tolerate insect damage, and fend off diseases. Longer grass also shades the soil surface keeping it cooler, helping it retain moisture, and making it difficult for weeds to germinate and grow. A lawn's ideal length will vary with the type of grass, but many turf grass species are healthiness when kept between 2-1/2 and 3-1/2 inches. You or your lawn care people may have to readjust the mower as most are set too low. It's also important to mow with sharp blades prevent tearing and injuring the grass. And it's best to mow often, because grass adjusts better to frequent than infrequent mowing. The rule of thumb is to mow often enough that you never cut more than one-third of the height of the grass blades. Save some time and help your lawn and the environment by leaving short clippings on the grass where they recycle nitrogen rather than sending them in bags to the landfill.Question:  When Do I Weed & Feed?Answer:  Think about lawn care as a preventive health care program, like one you would use to keep up your own health. The idea is to prevent problems from occurring so you don't have to treat them. As they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. A healthy lawn can out-compete most weeds, and fend off most diseases before these problems ever get the upper hand.  Weed & Feeds are such a shotgun approach that we really discourage them.  Let your healthy fight off the weeds and spot spray with a broadside herbicide any weed that is super tough.  This is much safer for your yard, kids, and pets.Question:  When Do I Dethatch?Answer:  Maybe Never!  All grass forms a layer of dead plant material, known as thatch, between the grass blades and the soil. When thatch gets too thick ---- deeper than 1/2 inch ---- it prevents water and nutrients from penetrating to the soil and grass roots. But 1/2 inch is healthy and necessary to support the plant.  In a healthy lawn, microorganisms and earthworms help keep the thatch layer in balance by de composing it and releasing the nutrients into the soil.  A good, balanced slow release fertilizer program will give the thatch the nitrogen necessary for decomposition. Core aeration annually is also a great help.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2002-03-01 17:14:00

Question:  The lawn on the north side of our two-story house gets almost no direct sun light. It has been hard to get grass to grow in this area. We would like to replant this spring. What type of grass might grow and how should we care for it? Any other ideas on what to do would be appreciated.

Answer:  We are asked this question quite often, but there is no perfect answer because there are too many variables. If the densely- shaded areas are caused by your house and large shade trees, then lower-lift tree pruning, and/or removal of trees would be suggested to help allow some sun light to get to your lawn area. In past landscape projects we have seeded shaded lawn areas with Creeping Red Fescue. This particular type of fescue is labeled for shaded areas. We have had our best results with Creeping Red Fescue by overseeding every spring and fall after initial planting. Keep in mind that all grass requires some sun light. With very little sun light a dense thick turf should not be expected.By chance, if your two-story house is not allowing any sun light on the north side of your lawn area, then this question becomes a lot easier. Before spending a lot of time and money seeding & overseeding your densely shaded lawn area I would recommend: In small areas, landscaping with shade loving ground covers & perenials and for large densely shaded areas, patio, walkways, water features, shade loving plant material (shrubs, groundcover & perenials). Before attempting any shaded landscape areas I would highly recommend contacting a local landscaper to design your landscape plan. Their knowledge and experience in selecting the proper plant material for your area will save you a lot of money in the long run. Shaded landscape is one of the most challenging designs.As always, ask for references.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2002-02-01 15:35:00

: I'm trying to stop erosion on the banks of my pond. The banks have been recently reworked and are bare and steep. I have planted Bahia but it doesn't seem to be germinating very well. Can you recommend a seed that will germinate quickly and help hold the soil together. When is the best time to plant it?

Brad Lechner Question: I'm trying to stop erosion on the banks of my pond. The banks have been recently reworked and are bare and steep. I have planted Bahia but it doesn't seem to be germinating very well. Can you recommend a seed that will germinate quickly and help hold the soil together. When is the best time to plant it?Answer: Thank you for the wonderful question. We will need to decide the best grass seed for your erosion problems. Bermuda and zoisia (warm season grass) could be a good choice.  Bermuda and zoisia grasses spread to help hold soil together. Disadvantage, bermuda and zoisia grass are difficult to germinate by seed. Fescue (cool season grass) would be a better choice, as fescue is less difficult to germinate from seed. The quick germination of grass seed will be very critical. Perennial rye seed will germinate with in 3 - 5 days and would be a very helpful grass seed to use in your situation.      Bahia is a wonderful spreading grass for erosion problems, but Bahia grass grows in a different region of the United States. It is recommended in zones  9 to 10. The Kansas zone is 5 to 6. Bahia is mostly grown in southern areas like Florida etc.     Recommended solution: Cost will be a major factor in your erosion problem solution.  Sodding (fescue, bermuda, zoisia) is the best solution for your situation. With sodding you'll get a instant result. As compared to seed, erosion may occur before germination. To solve your erosion problem by seeding, I would recommend seeding your bank area with fescue (cool season grass) with a mixture of perennial rye. After seed is applied, I would recommend installing erosion jute ( a woven burlap ) to keep soil from erosion before seed germination. After your seed has germinated. The erosion jute will deteriorate in to the soil. Cool season grasses are recommended to be planted in spring (April15th - May 15th) or fall (September 1st - October 15th).

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Peter Salmeron

2002-02-01 15:35:00

:  What can one expect to see at the Wichita Garden Show this year?

Peter Salmeron Question:  What can one expect to see at the Wichita Garden Show this year?Answer:  People come from all over the USA to the Wichita Garden Show. Here’s three good reasons to see the Show this year.       I’ve been involved with the Wichita Garden Show for more than 10 years. Each year the beauty, the incredible elements of the gardens, such as giant waterfalls crashing 10-20 feet or a waterfall you can walk under, or 300 tons of boulders, new and unusual plants—it all just keeps getting better and more spectacular. There are 13 gardens and they are valued at 1/2 million dollars. Every year, show goers shake their heads and say over and over, "How do they do it?" Even if you have no real interest in learning anything about gardening, it’s worth the admission just to see what new and amazing features you will find in the gardens.      The second reason for attending is the Board of Directors chose a theme for 2002 that would proclaim a real celebration of Spring to help relieve the tensions of last year’s tragedies, current issues- such as economy, taxes- and other woes. The Show Theme is "Celebration of Color". The halls will be transformed by dazzling and brilliant colors of countless numbers of flowers that proclaim Spring’s promise of hope and renewal. Many people spend hours just sitting and enjoying the springtime wonderland in the midst of winter. It is a real celebration of spring!      The third reason targets those who are interested in improving their yard, adding a new deck, perhaps a pool or finding out what to plant. Experts say the trend is for people to spend more time at home. This is the year to turn your yard into that special place you have always wanted to have for your family. The Wichita Garden Show provides unique opportunities to help you accomplish the task: A) It’s a place where every question you have about any phase of gardening and yards can be answered by yard industry experts: commercial vendors, Extension Service Experts, Botanica, garden clubs – Everywhere you turn there will be people who have practical and technical knowledge and who are eager to help you answer your questions. B) The Show is a mecca of IDEAS – landscaping, chemicals, grass, decks, gazebo, yard accessories. Ideas! Ideas! Ideas and products by the thousands to help you create the yard you’ve dreamed of for your family; and, C) You can also find out how to do it yourself if you prefer or you will be able to find someone to hire who meets your budget and can implement your plans. Everything you need is right there – no need to run to 20 places across town or spend hours on the telephone.      For additional information about details: Visit the Wichita Garden Show web:www.360wichita.com or http://www.wichitagardenshow.com/

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2001-11-01 15:22:00

Question: I’ve heard lots both ways... just how damaging are dogs’ daily routines to a lawn?

Answer:  Dog urine and feces can often be a frustrating problem related to lawn care. Small amounts may produce a green up or fertilizer effects while large amounts often result in lawn burn dead patches. While most burn spots will recover with time and regrowth, dead areas can be large enough in some cases to require reseeding or sodding. For homeowners who are also dog lovers, this can present a dilemma, particularly when one family member prefers the dog and another prefers a well-manicured lawn. The primary concern in addressing urine damage to lawns is to minimizing the nitrogen concentration added to the lawn at any single time. Female dogs, being less likely to urine mark and more likely to squat, are the primary culprits of lawn damage since they will urinate anywhere on a lawn and usually all at once. This results in a single nitrogen dump confined through a small patch of grass. The brown spot that results will often have a green ring around the outside, the nitrogen overload at the center causes the burn, but as the urine is diluted towards the periphery, it has a fertilizer effect. this characteristic brown spot, green ring pattern has been called (female dog spot disease) by some horticulturists. As might be expected, lawns are most susceptible to nitrogen burns when standard fertilizers are maximized in the lawn. Homeowners making the extra effort to have a green lawn may be quite discouraged by their neighbor's dog damage or their own house pets markings. Dog urine damage to lawns is so common in fact that a series of urban myths have arisen over what causes the damage.   For instance, one says that a female dog’ s urine is more acidic and therefore more damaging than a male.  Another suggests that what homeowners can do to avoid the problem are things like adding tomato juice to the dog’s diet or baking soda to it's water.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2001-09-01 11:37:00

Question: I have a very large patch of grass in my yard that looks different from the rest. It's spreading and getting larger. My neighbor says it is a different type of grass than the rest. What can i do to solve this problem and have all the grass the same?

Answer: Thank you for the question. Different types of grass in a lawn area are becoming very common.The first step is to identify what type of grass you prefer to have in your yard; fescue, bermuda, zoysia, etc. The second step is to identify what type of grassy weeds you would prefer to eliminate out of your yard. In my professional experiences I have found that most homeowners in this region prefer to have a beautiful deep green fescue lawn. Although a fescue yard requires more time in maintenance than your basic green bermuda or zoysia lawn, its appearance is well worth all of the hard work.There are several things to consider before choosing the grass you install in your yard;1. Fescue will require more mowing than bermuda or zoisia per season.2. Fescue will require more lawn applications of nitrogen.3. Fescue will need a lot of water: I would recommend a automatic sprinkler system.4. Fescue lawns do not spread. Bermuda & zoysia lawns will spread to help maintain a dense lawn area. This helps to keep the weeds out.5. Fescue lawns will need to be over-seeded every fall to help maintain a thick lawn to prevent any broadleaf or grassy weeds from invading you lawn.6. Bermuda & zoysia lawns will need to be scalped and dethatched.7. Bermuda & zoysia lawns will only be green during the warm to hot months.8. Bermuda & zoysia lawns do not require a lot of nitrogen or water.The best way of deciding which lawn would be best for you is your schedule and the type of grass your neighbors have. Bermuda & zoysia are considered to be a low maintenance turf. Fescue is considered to be a high maintenance turf. As a professional lawn maintenance owner I would recommend a fescue lawn, not only for the beauty but for the convince for your neighbors (bermuda and zoysia will spread into their yards and cause them to battle problems that you may be experiencing yourself. I will have to agree with your neighbor about the different types of grass. More than likely the problem is bermuda grass or crabgrass. So lets take a little time to explain some basic ideas on how to prevent the grassy weeds from coming and taking over your yard. The key ingredient of fescue grass is knowing what your lawn needs and when it needs it. For example: (watering, fertilizing, aeration, over-seeding, weed control, insect control and most of all broadleaf weed control.WATERING:Water is a very important key to your success. A fescue lawn is a wonderful cool season lawn. They always look nice in the spring time with all our spring showers. A fescue lawn start having some problems when the season start changing into summer. The problems is the rising temperature. The hotter it gets the more water your going to need to maintain a healthy green lawn. A fescue lawn has a shallow root system. A bermuda lawn has a root approximately 3' deep and has a better chance of finding its own moister in your soil. The problem with a fescue lawn is the more abundant the water in the spring, the root system will be closer to the surface. Thus, making it even harder to keep enough water on your nice lawn. This is the reason why I would highly recommend a sprinkler system for a fescue lawn. In order to keep your fescue lawn healthy in the summer it is recommended to water six days a week. When your lawn gets stressed from lack of water or nitrogen a fescue yard will start to thin in high stressed areas. Fescue being a non spreading grass, will recover the thinning areas with many problems. The problems that can occur are: broadleaf weeds, grassy weeds & bermuda grass. All or one of these may fill in the stressed area and cause you as the home owner to notice different looking grass areas or what may seem to be grass in your yard. FERTILIZING:Fertilizing fescue lawns properly is on the top of your priority list. Fescue lawns will require a lot of nitrogen, for example: fescue needs fertilizer approximately ever 45 days. If we were to put all the nitrogen needed for the year in 1-2 applications we would completely destroy your yard. I would highly recommend hiring a professional lawn applicator. Any body can rent a spreader, buy some fertilizer and put on your yard to give it a lush green appearance. But, a professional lawn applicator has the knowledge to identify & correct diseases and insects problems. Also, helping your lawn by preventing lawn problems before they accrue. AERATION & OVER-SEEDING:The best way to keep all types of weeds out of your yard is to maintain a thick healthy lawn. This can be obtained by aerating and over-seeding every fall. Just remember keeping a thick dense turf is the secret to a weed free healthy lawn. WEED & INSECT CONTROL:Weeds weeds weeds, how nice it would be if they would stay out of our lawns.(ha,ha,ha !!) Ok, lets stop dreaming. If your to keep a healthy dense deep green lawn, weeds are not really a problem. But, the minute something goes wrong with your lawn their always there ready to take over. I recommend hiring a professional lawn applicator to prevent these weed problems before they occur.Waiting for them to come and say "hello!" is not the best way of maintaining your lawn.Hopefully, these basic tips will help you maintain a healthy deep green lawn.Watering maintenance, fertilizer programs, aeration & over-seeding will be explained in more detail in up coming Q & T articles. Don't forget... water... water... water!!!!!!!!

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2001-07-01 16:07:00

Question:  Last year I had problems with my lawn.  First during the late spring, it was crabgrass.  Then I lost over 50% of my lawn to grub worms.  Last Fall I re-seeded. What do I need to do this year to prevent these headaches? 

Answer:  Crabgrass (digitaria sanguinalis) is one of the most common warm-season, annual, grassy weeds. Crabgrass sprouts from seeds in the early spring growing rapidly and producing seeds all summer until the first killing frost in the fall.  The seeds lie dormant over the winter and sprout in the Spring.  Applying a pre-emergent herbicide (such as Dimension, Barricade or Pendamethiyn) to your lawn in early Spring prior to germination can prevent crabgrass.  If a pre-emergent was not applied before germination you will need to apply a grassy-weed post emergent (such as Acclaim or MSMA).  If crabgrass has germinated in your yard, I would recommend calling a professional turf applicator.White grub worms are the larval stage of several different beetles, including the Japanese beetle, the May or June beetle, the European chaffer, and the Asiatic garden beetle.  As the name indicates, white grubs are white to cream-colored.   'U' or 'C' shaped worms range from one to one and one-half inch in length and have a segmented body. They have three pairs of legs immediately behind their tan to brown heads.  They have smooth, shiny hind sections.Their life cycle starts when the various beetles known to most as June bugs burrow into the soil to lay their eggs in the late summer. After the eggs hatch, the grubs feed on the roots of the grass before moving deeper into the soil. As the soil warms in the spring and early summer the grubs pupate and then emerge from the soil as adult beetles. The adults stay above ground for only a few weeks then they return to the soil to lay their eggs.  The best way to control grubs is to prevent them.  The best way to prevent grub worm infestation is to apply a grub worm preventative (such as Merit or Mach II).  This application should be applied between May 15th and June 15th. If a preventative is not applied, you will spot damaged areas as irregularly shaped patches of dead grass that you can pull up like a loose piece of carpet.  These symptoms appear when the grub population has been very high in the Spring or Fall. In addition to the damage directly caused by grub worms, there is indirect damage.  Birds, skunks, raccoons and moles will also do damage to your turf while searching for grubs, one of their sources of food.If you did not apply preventative grub control, grubs will be eating the roots from under your turf and damage will not be visible until extreme temperatures or drought conditions occur.  By this time grubs have destroyed the root system of your turf and put it in an unrecoverable condition.  The only solution at this point is to over-seed your yard.     I would strongly recommend applying a preventive application for grub control. Grub population will not always be high enough to cause serious damage, but prevention is much less expensive in the long run than completely renovating your yard after the damage.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2001-07-01 12:31:00

Question:  The trees surrounding our house are beautiful and one of the biggest reasons we bought. How can we be sure we are taking care of them properly?  It seems there so many things to watch for, like watering, insects, pests, diseases and so on.  How do we know we're doing things right?

Answer:  Most homeowners don't realize what can happen to their landscape investment if they don't take care of it.  In taking care of your trees and landscape there our four very important areas of maintenance to insure a healthy and colorful garden or landscape. 1. Water management. 2. Proper fertilization program. 3. Identification & control of insects and disease. 4. Proper pruning maintenance. To answer your question about knowing what to do or what to look for, will be difficult to explain properly.  Every tree and shrub has many different types of problems we look for or try to prevent.  Since your question did not explain the types of trees and shrubs in your landscape, I'm going to answer your questions explaining what the possible diseases and insects are, and why they're so harmful to your landscape investment.  I will also explain what to look for as well as preventive measures.Many different kinds of insects and mites feed on trees and shrubs.  Generally, the greater the variety of plants in the landscape, the more insect and mite species you will encounter.  The mere presence of an insect or mite on a tree or shrub does not necessarily mean you have to control that problems with insecticides or miticides.Predators such as wasps, ladybugs, and other biological forces play an important part in keeping many insects and mites under control during most years.  These forces may break down during some seasons and require the use of chemical and other control measures.  Some insects and mites thrive under Kansas climatic conditions so natural forces seem to exert little pressure on them.Some plants require constant attention while others are relatively free of insects and mites.  Use non-chemical methods of control whenever possible.  Practices, such as sanitation, pruning, use of tolerant species and varieties and the direct removal of pests by hand, are an important part of any control program.Sanitation is the removal and destruction of whole plants.  For example, it is a common practice to remove dead and dying elm trees to control Dutch elm disease. This may include removing large branches that are, or may become heavily infested.  It may sound wasteful to remove a healthy plant, but if a plant is a potential host or breeding site, you can avoid a heavy infestation to surrounding plants by removing these potential host plants.  Pruning is the selective removal of twigs and branches because they are heavily infested with scale.  Dormant oil helps control some scale insects and mites and is probably less environmentally polluting than some of the pesticides that are applied during the growing season. WATERING SCHEDULE:Watering your trees and landscape properly will be crucial to your success in maintaining a healthy and beautiful landscape.  There's only one problem.  Due to so many different conditions in each landscape, there is no correct answer for properly watering your landscape (i.e. sandy soil, clay soil, full sun, partial shade, shade).  All these conditions must be considered during your planning for your water schedule.  The first step in preparing your water schedule would be to water your trees and landscape, then wait two days before checking the soil.  Is it too dry or too wet?If your soil was too dry, water more often.  If your soil was too wet, try watering every third day.  The sooner you start watering properly, the sooner your trees and landscape will show you your reward.  Don't forget, your water schedule will need to be figured for every changing season (spring, summer, fall, winter).  Most important of all, too much water is just as bad as no water at all.Common insect and disease problems to look for:Scale - Scale insects have a shell-like, waxy covering on their bodies.  Scale insects feed by sucking sap from trees and shrubs and are capable of killing entire plants or parts of the plant.  Scale insect feeding can also reduce the plant's vigor, making it more susceptible to injury caused by drought, severe winters, and attacks by other insects and diseases.  Plants are often covered by a sooty mold.  The sooty mold gives the plant a blackish appearance.  Most species of trees and shrubs are subject to scale insects.Fireblight - Certain varieties of apple, flowering crab, pear, pyracantha, cherry and quince are highly susceptible to fireblight.  Hawthorns, cotoneaster and spirea are affected less seriously.  Signs of the fireblight are blossoms and leaves that suddenly wilt, turn dark brown, shrivel and die, but remain attached.  The bacteria overwinters in canker on the plants.  They are spread by wind-blowing rain, insects and pruning tools.Powder Mildew - Common hosts are roses, crabapple and lilac.  Powder mildew may produce a white powdery coating on the leaves, buds or stems of highly susceptible plants.  New growth is stunted and curled on roses.  The leaves may dry and drop.  The flower buds are often deformed and may fail to open properly.Leaf Spot - Fungal leaf spot occurs on most kinds of ornamental plants.  They usually appear first on the lower leaves.  They may begin as dark brown, pinhead-sized spots, which sometimes have a yellow halo.  Spots may cover an entire leaf. As the spots become more abundant, leaves may yellow, die and drop.  Leaf spot is most common in the early spring and fall.  Wet conditions usually are necessary for infection.  Healthy plants become infected when the fungi spores are slashed onto the infected leaves on the ground, blown to them by wind, or carried by garden tools.Scab - Apples, crabapple and pyracantha are susceptible to the scab fungus. Symptoms include spots on leaves and fruit and premature defoliation.  Scab first appears as olive-green spots on the underside of new leaves.  These spots become brown and velvety, then turn yellow and drop prematurely.  Fruit may become infected at any time with circular, olive-green spots that later become brown or black.  The fungi overwinters in infected leaves and produces spores in the spring.Mites - Several species of mites attack trees and causes the plant to take on an off green color as a result of these sap-sucking pests.  Severely infested plants lose their vigor, become unsightly, and may even be killed.  If plant foliage begins to turn an off green color and you suspect mites, make a foliage check by holding a piece of white paper under a branch and striking it hard against the paper.  The mites are only about 1/50 of an inch in diameter, so you can't see them on the foliage.  If the foliage check reveals 10 mites or more, take action.Bagworms - Bagworms will attack and defoliate most evergreens and deciduous trees and shrubs.  However, they are particularly destructive to arborvides, cedar, junipers and other ornamental evergreens.  Bagworms live inside spindle-shaped bags that they construct while in the larva or caterpillar stage.  They construct them  out of silk and bits of foliage.  They drag these bags wherever they go and use them for protection against their natural enemies.  Bagworms overwinter in the egg stage inside the material bag attached to the tree or shrub.  The eggs hatch in late May or early June, and small caterpillars begin feeding and constructing the bag in which they stay.  You can handpick light infestations, particularly on shrubs and small trees, and burn the bags before the eggs hatch in June.  You can also spray half grown to nearly full-grown bagworm caterpillars, but they are difficult to kill.Cankerworms - Cankerworms are known also as measuring worms, inch worms or hoppers.  There are two species.  Both attack early in the spring just as the leaves are beginning to appear, or they sometimes attack the buds before the leaves open.Beetles - The most damaging leaf beetle in Kansas is the elm leaf beetle. The elm leaf beetle is an introduced pest from Europe, which feeds only on elm.  Although most elm species are subject to attack, the beetles usually prefer Siberian elm (commonly called Chinese elm) and hybrid elms.  Elm leaf beetle feeding damage may result in partial or complete defoliation of the tree.  Severely infested leaves will turn brown, and often drop prematurely.  In some cases, the entire tree may be defoliated by mid-summer.  The majority of the damage is caused by the larva as it feeds on the lower sides of leaves.  Trees that lose many of their leaves as a result of elm leaf beetle damage commonly put out a new flush of growth, which remaining resident insects may consume.  Feeding damage by elm leaf beetles seldom kills an elm tree.  However, severe feeding will weaken a tree, making it more susceptible to attack by other insects and diseases.Aphids - Hardly a plant exists, cultivated or wild, that is not a host to one or more aphids species.  Aphids, like scale insects and the true plant bugs, obtain their food by sucking the sap from plant tissue.  Some species feed only on foliage, others on twigs, branches, flowers of fruit, and still others on roots.  Many live on several distinct hosts, spending part of their seasonal development on one host and the remainder on another.  Aphids are small (seldom over 1/8-in. long), soft-bodied, pear-shaped insects of many colors, such as green, black, gray or red.  Most aphids prefer young shoots and leaves.  Their attacks may cause serious damage to plants by robbing them of sap, poisoning plants with the salivary secretions injected during feeding, and serving as vectors of viruses that cause galls on leaves, stems and roots. OTHER PROBLEMS THAT MAY OCCUR:Scorch - Scorch is when leaves or needles die from their margins to the center or from the tips to the base.  It occurs when transpiration water loss from leaves is faster than uptaken.  Scorch can result from drought, heat, drying wind, a poor root systems, root or trunk injuries, girdling roots, or toxic materials in soil such as gas, herbicides, high salt and excessive fertilizer.  It is impossible to tell what caused the scorch by looking only at leaf symptoms.Winterkill - Winterkill or winter injury is when trees die during the winter or spring and no other specific cause for death is found.  Exact causes for this are difficult to identify.  You can blame cold temperatures directly for the death of some winter tender trees, such as mimosa and some magnolias.  Sudden drops in temperature after warm weather are more damaging than steady declines.  Trees in active growth from warm wet autumns and late fertilizing are more easily damaged.  Low humidity accompanied by wind while roots are frozen and unable to take up moisture is especially damaging to broadleaf and coniferous evergreens. Death is often slow and does not become obvious until warm weather.  Arborvitae are especially susceptible.  This type of winter injury is often referred to as desiccation.  Freezing sometimes causes splits in the bark on trunks. Iron chlorosis - Iron deficiency results in stunted yellow leaves with veins remaining green.  Youngest leaves are most severely affected.  In terminal stages, the leaves develop brown spots and die.  Iron chlorosis is more severe in western Kansas because iron becomes less available as the soil pH increases.  Pin oaks, sweetgums, and soft maples are most severely affected but many other species also show symptoms.   Providing available iron through the soil and by trunk injections will help.  You can also plant more tolerant species in high pH soils.Herbicide damage - Many tree problems result from careless use of herbicides.  If the leaves are exposed to herbicides before they mature, they are cupped and distorted with thickened, prominent veins.  Mature leaves often yellow and drop off without obvious distortion.  Drift of volatile phenoxy herbicides is the most common problem.  But plant roots can absorb other materials, such as dicamba, and this can damage the plant.  Redbud, boxelder and hackberry are the most severely affected, but all broadleaf trees can be damaged.  Tree roots can pick up soil sterilants used in driveways, fence rows and ditches 40 to 50 feet away, causing injury or death. These are the most common insects and diseases that occur in our region, not to say these are the only problems. Identification of insects and diseases is very difficult, unless you are trained to identify problems in early stages, before major damage occurs.  Before taking a risk on losing a large investment on your landscape, I highly recommend consulting with a certified chemical applicator to monitor your landscape investment on a regular schedule.

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Lawn, Garden & Landscaping

Brad Lechner

2001-07-01 09:02:00

:  Spring is here, but my lawn is still brown.  Why?

Brad Lechner Question:  Spring is here, but my lawn is still brown.  Why?Answer:  After a slow spring, lawns are finally starting to come to life. While recent rain has been a welcome sight, you may still be finding brown spots in your lawn. These spots can be attributed to a wide range of factors and correct diagnosis of the problem is important in order to recommend a treatment. The first thing you will need to consider is the past history of the lawn. Was there a disease problem last year? Was the lawn dormant for a long period of time last summer? Have there been any activities on the lawn that could cause a problem? This article will discuss a few of the problems we are seeing this spring and what can be done to fix them. One thing it might be if you had lots of snow (which we did not in this area) is the effect of snow mold. Symptoms of this disease are usually seen after the snow melts in the spring. Patches of light, yellow or grayish-brown turf may be present in high traffic areas or in areas where deep snow was present most of the winter. Affected areas are often matted and may have a cottony growth present. As the grass dries, the leaves become brittle and encrust over the patch. Usually only the leaves are killed and the plant crowns are still alive. However, severe infections may kill areas of turf. By this time of year, the damage from snow mold has already been done and all we can do is repair the damage. Rake or brush matted areas before applying water and fertilizer to facilitate faster plant recovery. If the spots do not recover, reseeding will be necessary. To prevent the problem in the future, avoid lush, green growth going into winter. Do not fertilize after September and continue to mow the lawn in the fall so that snow does not fall on a tall turf. Avoid excess thatch and prevent compaction of snow by vehicles, humans and animals. Because the spring has been so cool, the warm season weeds such as crabgrass and nimblewill have not greened up as quickly and weedy patches in the lawn may still be brown. Treat these areas with an appropriately labeled herbicide. Be sure to follow instructions on the label for application rates and timing. If the brown spots are along the driveway, sidewalk or street, the problem might be salt damage. Usually, heavy watering will help dilute the salt concentrations to less toxic levels. Reseeding may be necessary if the grass does not recover. If you have pets, especially house pets, they may be contributing to your brown lawn. When you let them out, pay attention to where they go to relieve themselves. Often during winter months, house pets will use the same tree, corner or "spot" as a bathroom. In the spring, injured grass may be brown or straw-colored. These spots are usually bordered by a ring of lush, green grass in the spring. Heavy watering will help these areas recover. A final consideration is the possibility of winter injury or winter kill. Cultural practices and lawn history need to be considered. If the lawn was started from sod, it may not have established in some spots and these spots winter killed. Winter kill may also be a problem if an excessive thatch layer is present. Core aerification will be needed to reduce thatch effectively. Disease and insect problems the previous year may have weakened the turf and predisposed it to winter kill. Winter injury is also more evident when the lawn is not allowed to harden off before cold weather. If brown areas do not respond to water and fertilizer, reseeding may be necessary.