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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Josh Jabara

2010-05-01 14:25:00

: If I bend the carpet and see the backing, does this mean the carpet is low quality?

Answer: No. All carpets, except woven carpets, are made with spaces between the tufts (ends). Remember, except for stairs, carpet is flat on the floor. You can feel the thickness or density of different carpets by sticking your fingers in the pile, but do it on a flat surface. As a general rule, thicker, tighter, denser carpets perform better.

Question: I’ve heard that you can save money by buying an unbranded yarn as opposed to a branded yarn. Is it true that you get the same thing, but you don’t pay extra for the brand name?

Answer: As a rule, similar products with unbranded yarns can be less expensive, but that doesn’t mean you get the same thing. Just like the difference between buying a branded carpet and an unbranded carpet, branded fiber brands are manufactured to strict standards set by the company. Using branded fibers

Answer: Nylon is the most durable fiber and is also the most expensive. It makes great cut pile and Berber carpets and is the fiber most generally used for commercial products. The plus side include durability, and versatility. On the down side, it’s more expensive and not as easy to clean as some other fibers. Polyester, after a rocky start 15-20 years ago, is now an excellent carpet fiber. It is most used for residential cut pile products. It is harder to dye than nylon, but that means it is easier to clean. It is also less expensive. On the down side, if it is loosely constructed, it has a tendency to pack and mat, but in the right (dense) construction, it is a superior carpet fiber. Polypropylene and Olefin are the same. They are used almost exclusively for Berbers and loop pile commercial products. They have almost no resilience, so they are almost never used for cut pile products. The exception is area rugs. It is fine for tight, dense loop piles like Berbers and cleans very easily.

Question: If I bend the carpet and see the backing, does this mean the carpet is low quality?

Answer: No. All carpets, except woven carpets, are made with spaces between the tufts (ends). Remember, except for stairs, carpet is flat on the floor. You can feel the thickness or density of different carpets by sticking your fingers in the pile, but do it on a flat surface. As a general rule, thicker, tighter, denser carpets perform better.

Question: I’ve heard that you can save money by buying an unbranded yarn as opposed to a branded yarn. Is it true that you get the same thing, but you don’t pay extra for the brand name?

Answer: As a rule, similar products with unbranded yarns can be less expensive, but that doesn’t mean you get the same thing. Just like the difference between buying a branded carpet and an unbranded carpet, branded fiber brands are manufactured to strict standards set by the company. Using branded fibers can also give you extended warranties backed by the fiber company and the carpet manufacturer.

Question: Can I save money by buying a less expensive carpet and putting the best cushion under it?

Answer: There is no doubt that a good cushion is critical to carpet performance, but remember that you walk directly on the carpet so you want carpet constructed to meet your needs and lifestyle. If you buy a cheaper carpet that doesn’t meet your needs, you’ll have a cushion that feels great, but you may not be satisfied with the look or wear of your carpet.

Josh Jabara is the sales manager of hard surface flooring at Jabara’s Carpet Outlet. After attending WSU, the family business became a large part of Josh’s adult life. His father Tom, mother Susan, and his uncle George assisted in that endeavor to a large degree. Perhaps one of Josh’s greatest strengths is his hands on approach. Josh can be reached by calling (316) 267-2512 or you may visit their website at www.jabaras.com.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Josh Jabara

2010-04-01 13:08:00

Question: I love your spring tips; could you focus on a specific room?

Answer: 1. Begin with a 15 minute living room clean up. This will clear out the clutter and give you room to do the actual spring clean up. Don’t worry about cleaning the floors in the 15 minute clean up. We will do this later. 2. Dust down the ceiling and corners of walls. Determine if the walls need washed in dirty spots. Spot wash, remembering air vents, doorknobs, doors, and switch plates. More Surface Cleaning Resources 3. Dust and clean all art and photographs along the wall. Be careful when cleaning framed art and photographs. Never spray cleanser or water onto the frame. The liquid can seep behind the glass and damage the pictures. Instead lightly wet a clean cloth to wipe the frame and glass. More Dusting Resources 4. Dust and clean the ceiling fan. There is nothing more embarrassing than turning on a ceiling fan and having large chunks of dust fall down on your guest’s head. Use this spring cleaning time to dust down the fan and fan blades. You may need to use a gentle cleanser like Murphy’s Oil Soap. Take down any light fixtures and gently wash and dry them before replacing. 5. Take down draperies, curtains, and blinds to wash or have cleaned according to the manufacturer’s directions. Vacuum and clean windowsills and corners. Wash the insides and outsides of the windows. Take down and rinse off screens, before replacing. More Windows Resources 6. Dust and clean out the couches and chairs. Use a vacuum cleaner with attachment to clean out couch crevices. Check to make sure none of your missing items have found their way into the abyss of the couch. Clean slipcovers, accent pillows, etc. Use an upholstery attachment on a rug shampoo machine to clean soiled couches and chair surfaces if needed. If a light cleaning is needed use upholstery spot cleaner. Test in a hidden area first. 7. Dust down and clean all accent lamps and knickknacks. Use a vacuum attachment or duster to clean the lamp shades, lamps, and any extra decorative items. 8. Remove books from bookshelves. down the books and the shelves. 9. Dust down accent tables and the entertainment center. Unplug and dust down all the electronics. Check cords for fraying and wear. Dust down the television screen. More Electronics Cleaning Resources. 10. Clean the carpets and rugs. If your carpets and rugs are heavily soiled it may be time to call a professional. You can also rent cleaning machines to use. Be sure to ask for one with an upholstery attachment. If your carpets are only lightly soiled vacuuming and spot treating may be all that is necessary. More Carpet Cleaning Resources. 11. Take the time to clean the doormats inside and outside your doorways. Wipe them down. Dust them off. Do whatever needs to happen so that shoes don’t transfer the dirt of your mat to your home. Tips: 1. Listen to music, an audio book, or a foreign language tape. The time will pass a lot more quickly if you have an enjoyable atmosphere. This is a great time to commandeer the stereo for what you want to listen to. If anyone objects, offer to let them have a turn with the stereo and the spring cleaning. 2. Partner up with a friend or relative. After you get done spring cleaning your living room, help her do hers. Misery flees when company is around. 3. Gather all of your supplies together first thing. Trying to sort through the pantry cabinet for your dust cloths might make you frustrated enough to de-clutter the cabinet. It’s easy to forget what your initial goal was. What You Need: • Dust mop (preferably with a long handle) • Step-ladder • Cleaning cloths • Small bucket with handle • Sponges • Vacuum with attachment • Gentle cleanser • Rug shampoo machine with upholstery attachment (optional) • Spot remover for upholstery or carpets (optional)

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Jason Jabara

2010-03-01 08:47:00

Question: Spring cleaning; what can I do to improve the quality of air in my home?

Answer: There are two methods for airing out your house, whether you’re dealing with furry creatures or cockroaches. Passive method: Choose an afternoon when you are sure the temperature is above freezing, turn off the heat, open the windows, and allow your home to air out for one and one-half hours. The disadvantage of this method is that your home is colder longer than if you use the active method, below. Active method: Choose an afternoon when you are sure the temperature is above freezing. If there is a fire in a wood burning stove or fireplace it should be extinguished and the flue closed before starting this procedure. It is also best not to be cooking while airing out the house. (If you heat your home with a furnace, stove, or fireplace that is not sealed, and the fire’s air source is the air from your home, these instructions do not apply. Use the passive method.) The active method will efficiently air out your home without too much cooling. It will also help you deal with another big allergen, dust mites Please follow these steps: 1. Install a fan in a window or attic to exhaust the air. 2. If you personally vacuum clean your home, don’t forget to use a mask. After cleaning, open a window where the fan is not located. Then open the window where the fan is located and turn the fan on. 3. Go to another room and open a window and then return to the room where you first opened a window and close it. Continue to do this in a consecutive fashion until you have done each room. 4. Leave the last window open, and go back and turn the fan off and close the window. Return to the last room and close the window. Advantage: Less home energy loss and house warms to a comfortable temperature faster than when you use the passive method.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Josh Jabara

2010-02-01 08:42:00

Question: Your article last month about general clean up was so helpful; any specific tips on the upcoming “Spring Cleaning” that we all look forward too?

Answer: Sure here are some things I’ve found and some that I’ve used that may be helpful. Great Cleaning tips •When you dust, start at the top and work down. •Take all your cleaning tools; avoid unnecessary trips back and forth. •Clean as you go! It takes a lot less time to remove new dirt than old. •Leaving baking soda on carpeting over night will absorb musty odors •Make a checklist of chores to get organized first. •Wash walls from the bottom up, to avoid streaking. •Use old socks as mitts for cleaning difficult wood work. •Wash small knickknacks instead of dusting. •To remove heel marks, take pencil eraser and rub them off. •Remember do not mix cleaning products; ammonia and bleach are toxic, and common cleaners such as Windex and Comet meet the don’t do rule. •Allowing cleaners to set for several minutes will ease the cleaning job. Interior Walls •Wall cleaner, mix 1/2 c. ammonia, 1/4 c. white vinegar, and 1/4 c. baking soda to 1 gal. warm water. •For cleaning textured walls use nylon socks instead of a sponge or cloth to avoid leaving material chunks behind. •To dust wall paper, tie a dust cloth over your broom and work from the top down. •To remove pencil marks & other non-greasy spots from non-washable papers, use an art-gum eraser. •To remove greasy spots or crayon, apply a paste of cleaning fluid and fuller’s earth and cornstarch. Let the wall dry and brush off residue. Repeat the treatment until the spot is gone. Exterior Walls •Use a water hose to spray the outside of your house. This will remove siding cobwebs and dirt. •If you have textured siding you may want to attach a car-washing brush to the hose to remove dirt. Windows •Make your own spray cleaner. Fill a spray bottle with 3 tablespoons ammonia, 1 tablespoon vinegar & the remainder with water. •Dust blinds by wrapping a cloth around a ruler. Spray cloth with a dusting spray and run the flat end across each blind. •Shine windows using old newspaper. •Clean windows on an average temperature, preferably overcast day to avoid streaks. •Dry windows outside in one direction then inside in the other direction. If you see a streak, you will know which side is the offender. •To clean window sills, pour diluted rubbing alcohol on a cloth and rub the entire surface. Then dust off the sill with a clean cloth. Bathroom •Rubbing alcohol can remove the dull haze from mirrors. •Use rubbing alcohol to remove spots from bathroom fixtures. •Glass shower doors will sparkle if cleaned with white vinegar. •To clean the shower, use a solution of 1/2 cup vinegar, 1 cup ammonia, and 1/4 cup baking soda added to one gallon of warm water. •Lemon furniture oil will remove water spots on metal frames. •Rusty tile marks can be removed with kerosene. •Running the shower on hot for five minutes will steam the dirt loose. •If your grout needs cleaning wash with 2 tablespoons chlorine bleach in one quart of water. Dry thoroughly, and then apply several coats of lemon oil. Let dry one hour between coats. •Dull walls will shine when washed with vinegar and water and polished with a dry cloth. •Lighter fluid will remove most stains from porcelain sinks and bathtubs. Kitchen •Pour club soda on counter and clean with a soft cloth, rinse with water then wipe dry. •Baking soda or club soda will clean and shine stainless steel sinks easily. •Remove stubborn water spots from a stainless sink with a cloth dampened with rubbing alcohol. •Spots on stainless steel also can be removed with vinegar. •Rub stainless steel sinks with lighter fluid if rusty . •For a sparkling white porcelain sink, place paper towels across the bottom of your sink and saturate with household bleach. Let sit for 8 hours & rinse. Never use bleach in colored sinks. Refrigerator •An open box of baking soda will absorb odors for a month or so. •A few drops vanilla extract on a piece of cotton placed in the refrigerator will eliminate odors. •Wipe refrigerator with vinegar to prevent mildew. •Use your vacuum on the front of the coils and motor to remove dust and dirt Appliances •Stop yellowing of white appliances. Mix 1/2 cup bleach, 1/4 cup baking soda and 4 cups of warm water. Apply with a sponge and let set for 10 minutes. Rinse and dry thoroughly. •Wax large appliances with car wax to make them shine and to remove small scratches. Wood Floors •Floor cleaner is a solution of 1/2 cup of white vinegar in 1 gallon of warm water. Damp mop with a mop squeezed nearly dry. It is safer to mist the mop with the cleaner than to apply to floor. Do a section at a time and throw an old towel on the floor and scoot back and forth with foot to dry and prevent streaks. Standing liquid from mopping, spills, and pet accidents can damage floors. •The greatest damage done to wood floors is from grit. Mats at doors are necessary to collect grit and it’s important to keep these clean. Frequent dust mopping in high traffic areas to collect grit is the best prevention. This should be done based on the amount of traffic, which may require dust mopping several times a day in an active household. The brush attachment of a vacuum can be used (no beater bars). Felt and furniture protectors should be installed on furniture. Never scoot furniture on wood. •Put a piece of waxed paper under your dust mop. Dirt will stick to the mop and the wax will shine your floors. •Use a paper bag over spilled candle wax then lightly iron •Removing Stains o Water Stains •Rub the spot with No. 2 steel wood and re-wax. For more serious water stains, lightly sand with fine sandpaper, clean the spot with No. 1 or 00 steel wool and mineral spirits or floor cleaner then refinish and wax. o Cigarette Burns •If not severe, the burn can be removed by rubbing with steel wool moistened with soap and water. o Heel and Caster Marks •Rub vigorously with fine steel wool and floor cleaner. Wipe dry and polish. o Ink Stains and Other Dark Spots •Use No. 2 steel wool and floor cleaner to clean the spot and surrounding area. Thoroughly wash the affected area. If the spot remains, sand with fine sandpaper, re-wax and polish. Stubborn stains may require that you replace the affected area. o Chewing Gum and Wax Deposits •Ice until the deposit is brittle and crumbles off. Pour floor cleaner around the stain so the fluid soaks under and loosens it. o Alcohol Spots •Rub the spot with liquid or paste wax Vinyl Floors •A general rule here is always sweep then damp mop using a gallon of water and a dash of dish washing detergent. •No-wax floors eventually need waxing; this will help to prevent further deterioration. Cleaning Carpets •To clean dry spots, loosen soil and vacuum away prior to moistening it. •When taking out stains, always use a white cloth. •Wax dropped on carpet or upholstery? Set a clean, absorbent cloth over the wax stain and hold a hot iron on it. Then remove the cloth. •Coat mildly greasy stains with aerosol shaving cream, use a hair dryer to speed dry. Then vacuum. •Sprinkle a greasy stain with baking soda, cornstarch or talcum powder. Leave on at least 8 hours, and then vacuum. Did you know that Bounce, the stuff you use in the dryer has many cleaning uses? •Eliminates static electricity from your television screen. Since Bounce is designed to help eliminate static cling, wipe your television screen with a used sheet of Bounce to keep dust from resettling. •Dissolves soap scum from shower doors. Clean with a used sheet of Bounce. •To freshen the air in your home you can place a sheet of Bounce in a drawer or hang one in the closet. •Prevents thread from tangling. Run a threaded needle through a sheet of Bounce to eliminate the static cling on the thread before sewing. •Eliminates static cling from panty hose. Rub a damp, used sheet of Bounce over the hose. •To prevent musty suitcases; place an individual sheet of Bounce inside empty luggage before storing. •To freshen the air in your car; place a sheet of Bounce under the front seat. •Cleans baked-on food from a cooking pan. Put a sheet in the pan, fill with water, let sit overnight, and sponge clean. The anti-static agents apparently weaken the bond between the food and the pan while the fabric softening agents soften the baked-on food. •Eliminates odors in wastebaskets. Place a sheet of Bounce at the bottom of the wastebasket. •Collects cat hair. Rubbing the area with a sheet of Bounce will magnetically attract all the loose hairs. •Eliminates static electricity from venetian blinds. Wipe the blinds with a sheet of Bounce to prevent dust from resetting. •Deodorizes shoes or sneakers. Place a sheet of Bounce in your shoes or sneakers overnight so they’ll smell great in the morning. Some information obtained from www.debra4homes.com

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Josh Jabara

2009-12-01 10:17:00

: What is a hand-tufted area rug? Answer: Hand-tufted area rugs are usually created by punching yarn in a cloth that is attached to a frame, and then gluing the back with latex after hooking the yarn. The surface loop pile is then sheared to produce a flat surface. This process creates an area rug that is very plush, generally less expensive and easier to make than hand-knotted area rugs. Question: How long will my area rug last? Answer: Area rug durability is generally determined by the material, construction, and amount of traffic in a space. By carefully considering where the area rug will be placed and how it will be used, you can anticipate its longevity. You may want to view an expected longevity chart, available at most outlets. Question: Do some countries produce better area rugs than others? Answer: Every type of area rug from different countries has the potential for excellent quality...as well as problems. Question: What area rug size do I need for my room? Answer: There are no precise guidelines for selecting an area rug for a room, other than a dining area. A good method to determine the right size is to spread bed linens as a substitute to approximate the size, take measurements, and choose the closest size available. In a dining area, measure the table and provide at least four additional feet to the length and width. In this manner, the chair legs remain on the area rug when pulled away from the table. Question: Will my area rug fade? Synthetic dyes last longer than natural dyes. In areas with high sun exposure, some fading may occur, so consider the space in which you will place the area rug. Most area rugs will provide years of vibrant color that do not fade under normal light conditions. Question: Is a rug pad necessary? Answer: We strongly encourage the use of an area rug underlay to protect your area rug from abrasion, impact and cleaning. A quality rug pad (underlay) can add years to the life of your area rug while providing additional safety and acoustic benefits. Question: My area rug just arrived, and it appears to be creased. Do I have a problem? Not normally, during shipping many area rugs develop creases or the pile gets compressed, which usually disappears within two weeks. Question: What is a Hooked Rug? A Rug-making process by which craftsmen insert yarn – which can be any fiber - into a backing with a hand held needle tufting tool. The machine is often called a ‘gun’. The rug’s pattern is stenciled on primary backing material. After the tufting is complete, a latex backing is attached to protect and anchor the stitches. The pile of a hand hooked rug is made up of loops. Rugs may also combine cut and loop techniques. Question: What is a Hand Knotted Rug? A Hand Knotted rug is made by weavers who knot pile yarns around the warp fibers that run the length of the rug. Generally, the more knots per square inch, the more valuable the rug. Question: What is a Tibetan Hand Knot? A Tibetan Knot is a distinctive rug-weaving technique now used in other regions as well as in Tibet. A temporary rod, which establishes the length of pile, is put in front of the ‘warp’. A continuous yarn is looped around two ‘warp

Answer: These are very good questions. I will try and answer as many as I can. Synthetic area rugs generally resist staining and soiling better than wool area rugs, although wool provides excellent stain resistance if caught quickly. Wool fibers are available in hand and machine-made area rugs, but synthetic area rugs are usually more affordable. Wool tends to wear longer than synthetic fibers, because the natural tendency of wool fiber is to stretch rather than break. The protein core of a wool fiber absorbs dye well, which creates a softer appearance compared to synthetic fibers. Question: What is a hand-tufted area rug? Answer: Hand-tufted area rugs are usually created by punching yarn in a cloth that is attached to a frame, and then gluing the back with latex after hooking the yarn. The surface loop pile is then sheared to produce a flat surface. This process creates an area rug that is very plush, generally less expensive and easier to make than hand-knotted area rugs. Question: How long will my area rug last? Answer: Area rug durability is generally determined by the material, construction, and amount of traffic in a space. By carefully considering where the area rug will be placed and how it will be used, you can anticipate its longevity. You may want to view an expected longevity chart, available at most outlets. Question: Do some countries produce better area rugs than others? Answer: Every type of area rug from different countries has the potential for excellent quality...as well as problems. Question: What area rug size do I need for my room? Answer: There are no precise guidelines for selecting an area rug for a room, other than a dining area. A good method to determine the right size is to spread bed linens as a substitute to approximate the size, take measurements, and choose the closest size available. In a dining area, measure the table and provide at least four additional feet to the length and width. In this manner, the chair legs remain on the area rug when pulled away from the table. Question: Will my area rug fade? Synthetic dyes last longer than natural dyes. In areas with high sun exposure, some fading may occur, so consider the space in which you will place the area rug. Most area rugs will provide years of vibrant color that do not fade under normal light conditions. Question: Is a rug pad necessary? Answer: We strongly encourage the use of an area rug underlay to protect your area rug from abrasion, impact and cleaning. A quality rug pad (underlay) can add years to the life of your area rug while providing additional safety and acoustic benefits. Question: My area rug just arrived, and it appears to be creased. Do I have a problem? Not normally, during shipping many area rugs develop creases or the pile gets compressed, which usually disappears within two weeks. Question: What is a Hooked Rug? A Rug-making process by which craftsmen insert yarn – which can be any fiber - into a backing with a hand held needle tufting tool. The machine is often called a ‘gun’. The rug’s pattern is stenciled on primary backing material. After the tufting is complete, a latex backing is attached to protect and anchor the stitches. The pile of a hand hooked rug is made up of loops. Rugs may also combine cut and loop techniques. Question: What is a Hand Knotted Rug? A Hand Knotted rug is made by weavers who knot pile yarns around the warp fibers that run the length of the rug. Generally, the more knots per square inch, the more valuable the rug. Question: What is a Tibetan Hand Knot? A Tibetan Knot is a distinctive rug-weaving technique now used in other regions as well as in Tibet. A temporary rod, which establishes the length of pile, is put in front of the ‘warp’. A continuous yarn is looped around two ‘warps’ and then once around the rod. When a row of loops is finished, then the loops are cut to create the pile. This method produces a slightly ridged surface. Question: What is a Machine Made Rug, and how does it differ from a Needlepoint Rug? A machine made rug is constructed on an electrically powered machine, and with today’s technology they are usually computer controlled. A needlepoint rug consists of a technique made with wool yarns worked up on a canvas using the same method as a needlepoint pillow.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Jason Jabara

2009-11-01 15:55:00

Question: I understand there are certain times of the year that it is best to buy certain products. Does this also apply to new carpet?

Answer: I have received several questions like this recently. My answer...if you know what to do, the answer is YES! You can save as much as 25% or more by knowing when to buy and how to negotiate your best deal. To do that, you need some unbiased carpet information. Let’s see if I can provide some of the same. Carpet retailers have busy seasons and slow seasons. If you try to negotiate a better deal during their busy season, then you don’t stand much of a chance to beat them down on the price. However, if you negotiate wisely during their slow season then you stand a very good chance of getting a very sweet carpet deal for yourself. Worst times to buy new carpet. Now, when are the slow seasons you ask? Let me start by telling you when the busy seasons are so you can get a better understanding of the big picture. The real question is, when do people buy carpet most? You don’t want to buy carpet when everyone else is buying. It’s almost impossible to negotiate a great deal on carpet when there are other customers waiting in line behind you holding their checkbooks. Here are the big three common”busy” seasons to steer clear of: 1. Between February 20th and April 30th when people are expecting a tax refund 2. From the 4th of July through August 31st. During the hot summer months when people are remodeling an existing home or moving into a new home before the new school year starts. 3. Mid-October thru mid December. When people are getting ready for the holidays, and when out of town relatives and guests are coming. The best times to buy new carpet. Alright, now you know when NOT to buy carpet if you want to negotiate your best deal. Now let’s look at the three windows of “money-saving” opportunity so you know exactly when IS the best time to buy new carpet. Once December 15th rolls around, the Christmas trees are going up and holiday shopping is at an all time high. This means that buying after December 15th is a great time to buy new carpet. This window of opportunity lasts through January 31st. By Feb 15th it’s all done, as the tax refunds are starting to come in. People who file their tax returns early know how much their refund will be and that’s when carpet shopping goes into full swing. You’ll be able to get the best deals at the beginning of January when this slow season is in full swing. The next slow season is from May 1st to June 30th. The tax refund is spent, Memorial Day weekend is busy, the kids are getting out of school, vacation planning is underway and their is plenty of springtime gardening to do. Buying new carpet is not at the top of the priority list for most people during this time. This makes it a great time for you to negotiate a great carpet deal. I suggest shopping from May 20th through June 10th for the best negotiating power. The next slow season comes right after the kids go back to school and lasts the whole month of September. Everyone is getting settled into a new school year regimen, enjoying the last few weeks of hot summer weather, and getting ready for the autumn leaves to fall. No one wants to think about getting ready for the holidays just yet. September is a great time to negotiate a great deal on new carpet for your home. This window of opportunity is not very long; I suggest shopping early in September because once people start thinking about the holidays it is all done until after Christmas. Negotiating a great price on carpet. Knowing the best times to buy new carpet is important, but knowing how to negotiate a great deal is more important. You can’t just walk into any carpet retailer and ask for 25% off because you know it is their slow season. Some carpet retailers will negotiate with you and some won’t. You need to know which carpet retailers are willing to negotiate. So you have to do your homework. You also need to know what carpet to select to meet your needs and goals, what pad is best for you. It doesn’t matter how great a deal you get if you buy the wrong carpet and pad. Proper installation is another issue all together. You must be sure to have your carpet installed correctly. Not every carpet installer does a good job, so you’ll have to take steps to be sure your installers are qualified, even if they are approved by the carpet retailer. Negotiating doesn’t start as you begin to shop for carpet, it starts after you have found exactly what you want, at the price you want, and have a total amount right in front of you. After you’ve done everything else right, just seconds before you sign on the bottom line, is when you hesitate and say “I’m not sure about this price… it seems pretty high to me. I need to think about this a little more just to make sure I’m making the right decision.” That is the beginning of negotiating a good deal on new carpet. Getting to that point requires that you do some homework.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Josh Jabara

2009-10-01 15:50:00

Question: After being outside all summer it’s now time to enjoy the comforts of our home. Do you have any tips on carpet cleaning?

Answer: Traditionally, fall is the time when we start to think about winterizing our home, mainly getting storm windows out of storage and making sure our chimneys are clear of debris, BUT our carpets and upholstery have taken a beating this summer as well. Constant traffic and hard use take their toll in excessive wear and tear on your furnishings. Unexpected spills, spots appearing as if by magic, PLUS...all summer long those nasty creeping critters, like dust mites, have had time to live and breed in your carpet and couches. With all the in-and-out traffic, the outdoor pollutants we always talk about (pollens, bacteria, cigarette smoke, grease, tar and industrial waste) have been carried into your home and deposited in your carpet and on your furnishings. Somehow, kicking back and relaxing indoors doesn’t sound as appealing when you think about the quality of your indoor air environment now does it. This can help; include carpet and upholstery in your early fall winterizing steps by getting them cleaned and refreshed now! How to Select a Cleaning Professional It’s amazing how hard it can be to choose the right carpet cleaning professional. I had to learn just like you, but I get experience every day, here are some pointers learned from trial and error. TIP ONE: Choosing a company solely by price doesn’t work. The truth is, when we invest wisely, we get what we pay for. Call the cheapest company you can find, and I’ll wager you get a big sales pitch with a little bit of cleaning. It only makes sense that the cheapest company has to cut costs by using cheap cleaning agents, cheap cleaning equipment, and cheap personnel spending as little time as possible cleaning your carpet. Is that really going to remove all the contaminants, oils, dirt and sand from the carpet? If not, then the lowest price company really isn’t a bargain at all. TIP TWO: Which method is better? Many professionals claim to have an exclusive method. Only they can use this method, and it is the only method you should allow to be used in your home. Doesn’t this sound like a trap to lure you into paying for a gimmick? Consider this: If I had just invented the world’s best cleaning machine, I would sell it to more than one cleaner in each city, I would sell it to every carpet cleaner in the world. That way, I would make the most money, and do the most good. So whenever someone tells me they have an exclusive method, I become suspicious. If nobody else has the cleaning method, it might be that nobody else wants it. Every cleaning method has strengths and weaknesses. Most companies use a truck mounted steam cleaning, the method recommended by the world’s largest carpet manufacturers. In fact, 95% of all carpet cleaners use this preferred method for that very reason. TIP THREE: Cleaning the carpet yourself is a waste of money and time. Sure you can rent a machine or buy one, but how much of those contaminants do you think it’ll really get out? Can it pull sand from deep within the carpet and clean off both the oil and water soluble soils? Furthermore, when you consider the value of your time, you stand to lose more money than you could allegedly save, especially if you get hurt and miss work. TIP FOUR: How to get more cleaning for your dollar. This is really a four-step process. First, point out every spot you are concerned about. Tell the technician what the spot is. When we know what caused a spot, it is more likely we can remove it. Second, prepare your carpet to be cleaned. Remove the furnishings. Remove all breakables from the work area. Vacuum and clean the baseboards before we come. Remember, the better prepared you are, the fewer obstacles to distract us from doing the best job ever. Third, never be too shy to complain. So after we leave, if you discover anything more we can do, please, please, please call me! Finally, have an open parking space as close as possible to your front door.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Jason Jabara

2009-09-01 14:47:00

Question: With so many styles and varieties of carpet could you please help with determining what carpet would be best for our home?

Answer: Key factors to consider would be - Who will be using the room? Do you have kids? Or how about pets? Is there a big yard leading right into your new carpet? Or is it in a room away from entrances? Do you want a soft, comfortable floor you can sit on in front of a fireplace, or when the kids are playing video games? Do you hate footprints and tracking but love big family functions? If it’s your bedroom, how do you want it to feel the first thing in the morning when your bare feet touch that plush carpet? Be sure to tell your flooring sales professional so they can help you with the right options. Carpets made of nylon and polypropylene can go anywhere in the house as far as style is concerned. So whether you buy a polypropylene berber style or a more formal look in nylon, you can be confident it will perform. In fact, these are the most popular choices and the two best performing fibers with nylon taking the lead. Polyester does have great softness but is less likely to hold up in high traffic areas. You might want to consider polyester for your bedrooms because of its soft, plush feel and because of reduced traffic in these areas. For sheer luxury and cache, you can’t beat wool. While it is the priciest of carpet options, you’ll see a wide variety of gorgeous looks and fashions in wool to fit any décor. Plus wool’s natural qualities ensure that you’ll be satisfied with how it looks and wears for years to come. What you choose depends on what you need. When thinking fashion, consider the following: What are your colors? What’s your look – modern, traditional, contemporary? How big is the room? Does it get a lot of light? One thing is for sure; especially if it’s for your home, get the best quality carpet you can afford that’s appropriate for the application. It’s an investment in your home that’s worth making. Most carpet features performance rating guidelines that are based on a 5 point scale; the higher the score, the better. A lot depends on the application. While a plush velvet may be the right choice for your living room, you’re not likely to put it in the basement. At the same time, a solid nylon berber in the busy family room with a polypropylene or blended carpet might be ideal. The single most important factor though may be simply this – that you love the way it makes your home look and feel.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Josh Jabara

2009-08-01 13:52:00

Question: We just installed a new patio in our back yard, and I was wondering what options do I have with regards to the surface?

Answer: Thinking outside the box - in keeping with the strange yet unavoidable desire to move the outdoors inside and the indoors outside, many people choose to put a rug or carpet outside. The practical purposes of such a thing are many: • Protects your feet from the cold ground in winter months • Provides a similar protection from the hot ground in the summer • Guards bare feet from being stubbed • A solution for a damaged or unsightly outdoor surface • Creates a unifying sense of space for your exterior décor Having soundly decided that purchasing an outdoor carpet will be done in the near future, it’s time to think about what you’re buying. Most outdoor carpets are actually designed for indoor or outdoor use and serve a primary function of capturing dirt that would otherwise be tracked inside. If you are a staunch naturalist and prefer not to decorate with synthetic materials, by all means purchase an outdoor carpet made from jute. This is a tough fiber, second only to cotton in numbers of uses and production. Known also as “hessian,” it is the primary material in burlap, though outdoor carpets are typically thicker than the sacks you are familiar with. However, we must recommend you opt for some kind of polypropylene material that is resistant to mildew and decay.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Jason Jabara

2009-07-01 12:05:00

Question: How do you keep your carpets clean during the summer months?

Answer: Open the windows on a warm, sunny day, move the furniture and get ready for spring carpet cleaning. Clean the dirt and odors that have accumulated over the winter from your carpets. Make it a do-it-yourself project by renting or buying a steam cleaning machine. For best results, keep the carpet in good shape by regular vacuuming and by following some spring carpet cleaning tips. Rent or Buy a Steam Cleaning Machine If you are cleaning your own carpets, consider renting a steam cleaner from a local hardware store. Steam cleaning machines can be attached by a hose to the sink. They heat the water to a high temperature, loosen the dirt and odors from the carpet fibers and suck the debris into the machine. Many steam cleaners use a cleaning solution that provides extra cleaning power. The cleaning solution is purchased separately from the machine rental. Purchase your own steamer machine if you clean your carpets frequently. Upright steamer machines are available for home use from department stores like Sears. Research steamers by reading Consumer Reports and on-line reviews to be sure you are getting a reliable steamer machine. Regular Carpet Maintenance Tips Keep on top of regular carpet cleaning maintenance by vacuuming frequently. Depending on how much foot traffic your carpet gets and how many pets you have, this could mean vacuuming as much as once a day or as infrequently as once a week. Regular vacuuming removes dust, dirt and pet hair. Spot clean as soon as a spill or a pet accident happens. Spilled liquids and pet accidents can not only stain, but leave odors in the carpet. Blot the spill as much as possible. Clean the area with soap and water. If the stain is something that will create an odor, like cat urine, consider using an enzyme cleaner designed specifically for cat urine odor removal. Spring Carpet Cleaning Tips Carpets can be steam cleaned once or twice a year. Spring carpet cleaning will remove all the soil that has accumulated over the winter months. Always test the steamer in a hidden area of carpeting to make sure it won’t damage or discolor the carpet fibers. Vacuum the carpet thoroughly before steam cleaning. Remove as much surface dirt as possible. Instead of buying a cleaning solution to use in the steam cleaner, consider using white vinegar. Continue to follow the directions on the machine. Simply replace the cleaning solution with vinegar. Mix the vinegar with water in the same ratio that you would mix the cleaning solution. Vinegar is an inexpensive and effective natural cleaner and is good at odor control. The vinegar odor dissipates once the carpet dries. Spring carpet cleaning can be a do-it-yourself project, especially if carpets are maintained by regular vacuuming and spot removal. To spring clean carpets, rent or buy a quality steam cleaning machine. Follow some basic carpet cleaning tips and enjoy fresh, clean carpets through the spring and summer months.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Jason Jabara

2009-05-01 11:45:00

Question: Fashions change with the seasons, is this also true with carpet?

Answer: Interesting question, and if I could sum it up with one word the answer would be yes. Summertime colors appear to be “retro” looks with new names. The 70s colors such as brown and teal have begun to show up with new names such as chocolate and sea foam. Even greens have gone from lime to kiwi. These colors may not yet necessarily be showing up on the showroom floor in carpet, but they are readily available in drapery, furniture and fabrics as well as accessories. These colors look wonderful when paired with the sand, tans and off-whites as well as deeper browns and gray tones. By themselves, warmer browns, those with more red tones, can make the room feel warmer, and come Fall and Winter, the warm colors should be rather welcomed. Layering for flooring and interior décor is very in, just as with high fashion clothing. Consider a rug for every season! All of a sudden your choices in carpet broaden very fast. Patterned carpet is very strong, especially for the warm weather, with popular animal prints such as Bengal tiger and cheetah looks. These are patterns that will last for the next decade and look smashing with checks and plaids as well as smaller flowering prints. These animal prints were used in the late 19th centuries in many historic houses and also bring a playful accent to modern homes or a dramatic staircase. Berber looks in both cut and loop finishes in the lighter off-white tones are easy to care for with a good quality vacuum cleaner. (It’s important to note that if you are using a vacuum with a beater bar, raise the bar so it will not be applied to your looped carpet.) Also with Berber, beautiful patterns of various size high and low loopspare available. Many of these feature vibrant or toned-down colors. To keep Summer going all year round, use the warmer colors, corals, toast, wheat as well as mango, which are light enough, reminiscent of the Summer sun but appealing year round for providing atmospheric warmth. Designers tell us this: The deeper the color the more “heat” you project in a room. One thing that runs through so many decorators’ minds is selecting a dazzling design that’s also practical. A light, airy and sweet-looking carpet in Summer may look nice when it’s first installed, but how will it handle traffic as the seasons change from sand to mud to snow and ice? When looking at the new soft fibers, ask your flooring professional for performance information. Many fiber manufacturers and carpet mills have performed “walk tests” on their fibers that offer good scientific evidence as to their expected wear-ability over time. If I could I would like to make 5 suggestions before you began with your new carpet venture. •Make your plan and budget, then have the whole house measured. Write down your favorite colors and styles so you can quickly transition to the next phase. Include window treatments. Often an afterthought, window treatments need to be part of your plan from the start –– and don’t forget, check for energy efficiency. •Pay close attention to entryways and high-traffic areas. Avoid premature wear with walk-off mats and area rugs which can be as decorative as they are practical. •Don’t skimp on carpet cushion. Properly matched cushion works to maintain your carpet’s beauty, durability, wearability, comfort and ease of cleaning as it cushions impact every step of the way. •Green minded? Look for responsible products such as high-fashion carpet made from recycled fiber and products made from wood –– a renewable resource! •Plan up front for transition strips, trim pieces and decorative elements that give your makeover a designer’s custom touch.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Josh Jabara

2009-05-01 11:45:00

Question: With growing concerns about the environment and everything going green, what are some dos and don’ts for new carpet installation?

Answer: This is a good question, and please rest assured that since 1988, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) has received only about 500 complaints associated with new carpet installation. CPSC evaluated many of these complaints. The most frequently-reported symptoms were watery eyes, runny nose, burning sensation in the eyes, nose and throat, headaches, rashes, and fatigue. CPSC is currently investigating the relationship between the carpets and the reported health problems. The complaints led CPSC to study what chemicals come from carpet and whether those chemicals could cause the health problems that consumers reported. CPSC collected carpet samples directly from the production line. Laboratory work was performed to determine the types and quantities of chemicals released from carpet cushions used under the carpet. The Commission does not currently have any evidence that specific chemical emissions coming from carpet are responsible for the health complaints associated with new carpet installation. At this time the cause of any health problems and the implication of findings for human health are not known. But as you can imagine studies to determine the significance of these reports are continuous and remain in progress. In the meantime, here are some practical steps that may help ease your mind before purchasing and installing new carpet 1.TALK TO THE CARPET RETAILER/INSTALLER. •Ask about the carpet industry’s voluntary “green label” program for new carpet. According to the carpet industry, the label tells consumers that this carpet type has been tested and passed emissions criteria. The label, however, is not a guarantee that the carpet will not cause health problems. A toll-free phone number is available on the label for updated information on the industry’s program. •Ask the retailer to unroll and air out the carpet in a well-ventilated area before installation. •Ask for low-emitting adhesives if adhesives are needed. •Make sure the installer follows industry installation guidelines (Residential Carpet Installation Standard, CRI-105). 2.VENTILATE AREA WITH FRESH AIR to help reduce chemicals coming from carpet installation. •Open doors and windows. Increasing the amount of fresh air in the home will reduce exposure to most chemicals released from carpet. During and after installation, use window fans and room air conditioners to exhaust fumes to the outdoors. If you have a ventilation system, be sure it is in proper working order. Operate it during installation, and keep it running for 48 to 72 hours after the new carpet is installed. 3.LEAVE THE HOUSE during and for several hours after carpet Installation. 4.CONTACT YOUR CARPET RETAILER if objectionable odors persist. 5.FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER’S INSTRUCTIONS for proper carpet maintenance.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Josh Jabara

2009-04-01 14:39:00

Question: We just spent a lot of money for new carpet; can you please give me some tips on keeping it looking new?

Answer: This is a very good question, your carpet is an investment and you need to keep it looking as good as the day it was installed. By following some simple carpet maintenance tips, you’ll reduce soiling and wear, and keep your new carpet looking good longer. Use Entry Mats Think of entry mats as a simple way to protect your investment. Place mats, inside and outside entrances to trap soil before it tracks into your home; if you use them, you will track much less dirt and sand onto your new carpet. This not only keeps your carpet looking cleaner, it also helps protect the fibers from abrasion and dulling. Keeping dirt away from your carpet is the best way to maintain its appearance and value. Alter Traffic Patterns Rearranging your furniture periodically changes the traffic patterns to distribute use more evenly. Heavy furniture crushes carpet pile. If you do rearrange your furniture especially heavy items, you probably will notice deep indentations in the carpet where the furniture legs were resting. To solve the problem, spray a small amount of water on the affected area and use a pile grooming brush available from your carpet retailer to lift the crushed pile. Avoid Contact with Color-destroying Products Some household chemicals, medications and cosmetics can permanently stain or remove color from your carpet. These household chemicals often are the culprits of “mystery stains” because they may not discolor the carpet for several days or weeks. Vacuum Regularly This is probably the most important; vacuuming cannot wear out your carpet, but soil can so vacuum regularly with a quality vacuum. Even with entry mats, eventually dirt and grit can become embedded in your carpet’s pile. When that happens, your carpet will become discolored and matted. Up to 80% of the soil in carpet is of the dry particulate type that can be removed with a vacuum cleaner. Daily vacuuming is recommended for high-traffic areas with seven passes of the vacuum cleaner over each section of carpet. For light-traffic areas, the recommendation is weekly vacuuming with three passes over each carpet section. The best vacuum for carpet is one with a beater bar or rotating brush and powerful suction. Be sure to adjust the vacuum for the height of your carpet. Deep brush agitation may damage loop-pile Berber carpet. Also check the vacuum bag regularly, and change it when it is half full for most effective cleaning. And remember to replace worn belts and brushes in the maintenance cycle recommended by your vacuum manufacturer. Even if you vacuum your carpet regularly, soil will accumulate that can only be removed by a more thorough professional cleaning. If you’ll follow these simple suggestions, you will protect your investment, and you’ll keep your new carpet looking new longer.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Jason Jabara

2009-03-01 14:08:00

Question: We are thinking of carpeting our child’s room, but I heard someone say that carpet is a source for poor indoor air quality, is this true?

Answer: With all of the flooring options available today, choosing one for your child’s bedroom or playroom may seem like a difficult task. However, given the health and safety benefits, choosing carpet for your child’s room is a great idea. Many people believe that carpet is a source of poor indoor air quality, although the reality is you will breathe easier knowing that your child is playing or sleeping in a room that helps their respiratory health. “Carpet improves indoor air quality by trapping dust and air-borne allergens until they are vacuumed away. In fact, a ten year study completed in Sweden further supports that there is no link between carpet in the home and the incidence of asthma or allergies. Not only does wall-to-wall carpet help your child breath easier, it also provides safety and comfort. Carpet helps prevents slips, will cushion a fall and is easy on children’s knees, hands and clothes and is safer and more comfortable than any flooring alternative. In addition, wall-to-wall carpet is ideal as a natural sound insulator as it absorbs and reduces noise offering more peace and quiet in your home. Along with all of carpets natural inherent benefits for your child, today’s manufacturing technology has enabled a multitude of choices in design, texture, and color with enhanced performance characteristics. When you select a carpet for a child’s bedroom or playroom, a couple of key features to look for are stain and soil resistance. Soil resistance helps repel dust and dirt, and stain resistance allows for easy clean up of most common household spills. So back to the original question, all evidence points to the fact that carpet is good for your child’s health, your home and it’s also a wonderful decorating tool. Now you can breathe easier with the knowledge that your carpet also makes your home healthier. Remember regardless of the room that carpet is being considered for; correct installation is essential if you are to get the best out of your carpet. Whether you are installing it yourself or calling in the professionals to do the work, the quality of the job is critical to the performance and life you can expect from your new floor coverings. Unless you are sure you know how to install carpet, you would be well advised to seek professional help in order to ensure the protection of this major investment. Even when using professionals, however, your carpet installation is something you should oversee. Before they arrive, you should familiarize yourself with the minimum industry-accepted carpet installation standards so that you can make sure the company installing your carpet follows them. Don’t feel you have to keep out of the way when the carpet installation is proceeding. While letting the professionals get on with their job you should also be on hand from the start, first to make sure the carpet is the texture and color you ordered, and then to keep a discreet watch on events, to avoid problems later. While watching the carpet installation, check that the carpet is being stretched properly, to minimize wrinkles. You should also make sure you are happy with the placement of the seams. While the seams will not be invisible, you can ask for them to be located in areas where they are not conspicuous.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Josh Jabara

2009-02-01 14:22:00

Question: What are some types of carpet cleaning?

Answer: When many people think of carpet cleaning, they think of steam cleaning, otherwise know as water extraction. Though this is the most common type of carpet cleaning, it is actually just one of five different methods. Each will be discussed below: Foam Cleaning: Along with steam cleaning, you can also foam clean carpets. Using a machine similar to a buffer, the shampoo is released onto a brush that works its way into the fibers of the carpet. After the application, you must wait an hour or two for it to dry. Then vacuum the entire area to remove the dirt. Shampoo Method: This is the oldest way to “clean” carpets. I put “clean” in parenthesis because that is debatable, as I will describe. Using a buffer, the solution is poured on to the brush of the buffer, which then is worked into the carpet. You must clean a small area at a time, going over it two or three times, just like buffing a floor. Edges and corners must be done by hand. This method can damage carpet, especially if there is a tear, so be careful. You finish the job, just as above, by vacuuming. The vacuuming may be the only way the carpet is actually cleaned. With this method, also known as the rotary method, you are actually spreading the dirt around. Dry Methods: Now the big debate starts! I have met many people in our industry who believe cleaning carpets using the dry method is the best thing since mom and apple pie. The dry system is actually a three- part procedure. First you sprinkle the solvent on the carpet. It’s a powder. The directions say you must allow the powder to stay on the carpet for about 15 minutes. Then, using a special buffer with two rotating heads, you go over the carpet. This rotates the cleaning powder into the carpet. Your final step is vacuum, vacuum, vacuum. As you vacuum, the powder and the dirt it has accumulated is removed. The great thing about the dry method is that there is no drying time whatsoever. For schools, offices, 24-hour facilities, it is best way to go... for a while. Steam Cleaning: Finally, we get to the most common carpet cleaning method. To really clean a carpet, deep clean a carpet, it will need to be steam cleaned at least once if not twice per year depending on the use it receives. “Steam” cleaning is really a misnomer for there really is no steam. Hot water with a cleaning solution is extracted via a wand. You go over the carpet a section at a time, overlapping your last pass. As the hot water is extracted, the wand is also vacuuming up the water and the dirt. Some wands have plastic hoses that are clear. When you look at the water being extracted, it often looks brown and dirty. You and your customer can see that the carpet is really being deep cleaned. It is a very good idea to vacuum the carpet first to pick up loose and surface level dirt. Since the carpet takes up to 8 hours to really dry, you cannot vacuum it afterward. However, as it dries, the carpet nap rises and the result is a very clean, fresh and “new- appearing” carpet. To determine which method is best for you depends on how much carpet cleaning you plan to do and how much you can invest. The shampooing is a good way to maintain a customer’s carpet. These are the easiest to learn and the least expensive. The dry method does a better job and definitely has its place in certain situations but there is an investment which must be made and the cleaning process takes time. Steam cleaning is definitely an investment.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Jason Jabara

2008-12-31 10:43:00

: Are wool rugs better than synthetic rugs? Answer: Synthetic area rugs generally resist staining and soiling better than wool area rugs, although wool provides excellent stain resistance if caught quickly. Wool fibers are available in hand and machine-made area rugs, but synthetic area rugs are usually more affordable. Wool tends to wear longer than synthetic fibers, because the natural tendency of wool fiber is to stretch rather than break. The protein core of a wool fiber absorbs dye well, which creates a softer appearance compared to synthetic fibers. Question: What is a hand-tufted area rug? Answer: Hand-tufted area rugs are usually created by punching yarn in a cloth that is attached to a frame, and then gluing the back with latex after hooking the yarn. The surface loop pile is then sheared to produce a flat surface. This process creates an area rug that is very plush, generally less expensive and easier to make than hand-knotted area rugs. Question: How long will my area rug last? Answer: Area rug durability is generally determined by the material, construction, and amount of traffic in a space. By carefully considering where the area rug will be placed and how it will be used, you can anticipate its longevity. You may want to view an expected longevity chart, available at most outlets. Question: Do some countries produce better area rugs than others? Answer: Every type of area rug from different countries has the potential for excellent quality...as well as problems. Question: What area rug size do I need for my room? Answer: There are no precise guidelines for selecting an area rug for a room, other than a dining area. A good method to determine the right size is to spread bed linens as a substitute to approximate the size, take measurements, and choose the closest size available. In a dining area, measure the table and provide at least four additional feet to the length and width. In this manner, the chair legs remain on the area rug when pulled away from the table. Question: Will my area rug fade? Answer: Synthetic dyes last longer than natural dyes. In areas with high sun exposure, some fading may occur, so consider the space in which you will place the area rug. Most area rugs will provide years of vibrant color that do not fade under normal light conditions. Question: Is a rug pad necessary? Answer: We strongly encourage the use of an area rug underlay to protect your area rug from abrasion, impact and cleaning. A quality rug pad (underlay) can add years to the life of your area rug while providing additional safety and acoustic benefits. Question: My area rug just arrived, and it appears to be creased. Do I have a problem? Answer: During shipping, many area rugs develop creases or the pile gets compressed, which usually disappears within two weeks. Question: What is a Hooked Rug? Answer: Rug-making process by which craftsmen insert yarn – which can be any fiber - into a backing with a hand held needle tufting tool. The machine is often called a ‘gun’. The rug’s pattern is stenciled on primary backing material. After the tufting is complete, a latex backing is attached to protect and anchor the stitches. The pile of a hand hooked rug is made up of loops. Rugs may also combine cut and loop techniques. Question: What is a Hand Knotted Rug? Answer: A Hand Knotted rug is made by weavers who knot pile yarns around the warp fibers that run the length of the rug. Generally, the more knots per square inch, the more valuable the rug. Question: What is a Tibetan Hand Knot? Answer: Tibetan Knot: A distinctive rug-weaving technique now used in other regions as well as in Tibet. A temporary rod, which establishes the length of pile, is put in front of the ‘warp’. A continuous yarn is looped around two ‘warps’ and then once around the rod. When a row of loops is finished, then the loops are cut to create the pile. This method produces a slightly ridged surface. Question: What is a Machine Made Rug? Answer: A machine made rug is constructed on an electrically powered machine, now usually computer controlled. Question: What is a Needlepoint Rug? Answer: A needlepoint rug making technique made with wool yarns worked on canvas using the same method as a needlepoint pillow. Question: What is a Flat Weave Rug and how are Dhurries and Kilims different? Answer: Flat Weave is weaving in which no knots are used. The ‘weft’ strands are simply passed through the ‘warp’ strands. Dhurries are flatwoven rugs that originate in India and are usually made of cotton or wool. Kilims are generally finer, tapestry-like flatweaves. Question: What is ‘warp’ and ‘weft’ in a rug? Answer: The ‘warp’ of a rug are the vertical strands of fiber, which stretch from the top to the bottom of the rug. Knots are tied to the ‘warp’ yarns to create face pile. The ‘weft’ of a rug are the horizontal strands of fiber that are woven through the ‘warps’. The ‘weft’ anchors and secures the knots.

Answer: These are all good questions. I will try and answer as many as I can. Question: Are wool rugs better than synthetic rugs? Answer: Synthetic area rugs generally resist staining and soiling better than wool area rugs, although wool provides excellent stain resistance if caught quickly. Wool fibers are available in hand and machine-made area rugs, but synthetic area rugs are usually more affordable. Wool tends to wear longer than synthetic fibers, because the natural tendency of wool fiber is to stretch rather than break. The protein core of a wool fiber absorbs dye well, which creates a softer appearance compared to synthetic fibers. Question: What is a hand-tufted area rug? Answer: Hand-tufted area rugs are usually created by punching yarn in a cloth that is attached to a frame, and then gluing the back with latex after hooking the yarn. The surface loop pile is then sheared to produce a flat surface. This process creates an area rug that is very plush, generally less expensive and easier to make than hand-knotted area rugs. Question: How long will my area rug last? Answer: Area rug durability is generally determined by the material, construction, and amount of traffic in a space. By carefully considering where the area rug will be placed and how it will be used, you can anticipate its longevity. You may want to view an expected longevity chart, available at most outlets. Question: Do some countries produce better area rugs than others? Answer: Every type of area rug from different countries has the potential for excellent quality...as well as problems. Question: What area rug size do I need for my room? Answer: There are no precise guidelines for selecting an area rug for a room, other than a dining area. A good method to determine the right size is to spread bed linens as a substitute to approximate the size, take measurements, and choose the closest size available. In a dining area, measure the table and provide at least four additional feet to the length and width. In this manner, the chair legs remain on the area rug when pulled away from the table. Question: Will my area rug fade? Answer: Synthetic dyes last longer than natural dyes. In areas with high sun exposure, some fading may occur, so consider the space in which you will place the area rug. Most area rugs will provide years of vibrant color that do not fade under normal light conditions. Question: Is a rug pad necessary? Answer: We strongly encourage the use of an area rug underlay to protect your area rug from abrasion, impact and cleaning. A quality rug pad (underlay) can add years to the life of your area rug while providing additional safety and acoustic benefits. Question: My area rug just arrived, and it appears to be creased. Do I have a problem? Answer: During shipping, many area rugs develop creases or the pile gets compressed, which usually disappears within two weeks. Question: What is a Hooked Rug? Answer: Rug-making process by which craftsmen insert yarn – which can be any fiber - into a backing with a hand held needle tufting tool. The machine is often called a ‘gun’. The rug’s pattern is stenciled on primary backing material. After the tufting is complete, a latex backing is attached to protect and anchor the stitches. The pile of a hand hooked rug is made up of loops. Rugs may also combine cut and loop techniques. Question: What is a Hand Knotted Rug? Answer: A Hand Knotted rug is made by weavers who knot pile yarns around the warp fibers that run the length of the rug. Generally, the more knots per square inch, the more valuable the rug. Question: What is a Tibetan Hand Knot? Answer: Tibetan Knot: A distinctive rug-weaving technique now used in other regions as well as in Tibet. A temporary rod, which establishes the length of pile, is put in front of the ‘warp’. A continuous yarn is looped around two ‘warps’ and then once around the rod. When a row of loops is finished, then the loops are cut to create the pile. This method produces a slightly ridged surface. Question: What is a Machine Made Rug? Answer: A machine made rug is constructed on an electrically powered machine, now usually computer controlled. Question: What is a Needlepoint Rug? Answer: A needlepoint rug making technique made with wool yarns worked on canvas using the same method as a needlepoint pillow. Question: What is a Flat Weave Rug and how are Dhurries and Kilims different? Answer: Flat Weave is weaving in which no knots are used. The ‘weft’ strands are simply passed through the ‘warp’ strands. Dhurries are flatwoven rugs that originate in India and are usually made of cotton or wool. Kilims are generally finer, tapestry-like flatweaves. Question: What is ‘warp’ and ‘weft’ in a rug? Answer: The ‘warp’ of a rug are the vertical strands of fiber, which stretch from the top to the bottom of the rug. Knots are tied to the ‘warp’ yarns to create face pile. The ‘weft’ of a rug are the horizontal strands of fiber that are woven through the ‘warps’. The ‘weft’ anchors and secures the knots.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Josh Jabara

2008-12-01 14:57:00

Question: What are some good tips for interior decorating and carpet?

Answer: In any decorating scheme, color is usually the first and most important element. The mood, tone and function of a room are influenced by the dominant colors that it contains. And likewise, the colors used in a room set its general ambiance. Nothing shows a professional touch in a room like the creative use of color and today’s decorator is fortunate in having a virtual rainbow of color options in carpeting. Many decorators consider the floor the “fifth wall” in a room and its color is as important as those of the walls, window treatments, or furniture. A good choice in carpet color can make the rest of the decorating job easy and satisfying. Colors fall into three general areas – hot, cool and neutral. Hot colors, like red, orange, or the popular “neon” tones, create a livelier, exciting feeling and elicit a more active emotional response. Hot colors are popular for flooring in family rooms, kitchens and casual entertaining areas. Cool colors, like pale greens and blues, suggest a more restful, serene environment and are frequently used in more formal rooms and bedrooms. Neutral colors, such as off-whites, beiges, grays, work both ways because they compliment other colors in a room’s decorating scheme and are appropriate carpet choices for any room of the house. The color you choose for a room’s carpet may be dictated by the room itself. Small or narrow rooms and rooms with low ceilings will appear more spacious with a neutral carpet that subtly blends with the wall color. A large or disproportionate room will become cozier when carpeted in a strong color that contrasts with the wall. Darker carpets will make the walls seem taller; lighter carpets will capture more light. By making the right carpet color choice, you can enhance the positive features of your room and compensate for architectural shortcomings. The endless options of colors in carpeting are a blessing, but a blessing that should be carefully managed. First, always examine the carpet in a variety of lights. What looks like a pearly gray under fluorescent light at your carpet retailer may become a darker pewter color when installed in a long hall with a small amount of natural light. Examine the carpet sample in the room where it will be used in the daylight and at night. Also, place it in the center of the room, against a window wall and in a dark corner. By doing this, you should be able to get an accurate sense of how the carpet will look in the room under all lighting conditions. Also, avoid “matching” colors. More often, rooms are successfully decorated when they blend colors and tones rather than match them. Wheat colored carpeting, putty colored walls and eggshell ceilings will create a more pleasing flow of surface colors than everything done in beige. And be mindful of manufacturer’s names for carpet colors. One manufacturer’s “hunter green” may be another’s “autumn clover” and there are more “navy blues” than there are navies in the world! Use your eye, not the description and you won’t be disappointed in your selections. Keep in mind that you may be living with your color choice for years. The color that puts a spark in your eye today may cause you to grimace in a few months – be sure to think “long term” when choosing your carpet color.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Jason Jabara

2008-11-01 11:24:00

Question: With the holidays rapidly approaching, I plan on entertaining more this year, how can I protect my carpet in high traffic areas?

Answer: Nothing will ruin a beautiful home like dirty or dull carpets. When you take a close look at your floor, it’s easy to tell which areas in your home are frequented the most because these areas are dirtier and more worn than others. A term professional carpet cleaners refer to identify these areas is “traffic lanes.” Doorways, hallways, areas in front of couches and chairs, and even the center of rooms are all likely to soil quicker than other areas of your home because dirt from the outside gets ground into the carpet and its fibers from the bottoms of shoes. Traffic lanes are also more susceptible to stains from food and beverages. If you want to do a test to see how dirty the traffic lanes are in your home, move a couch or a favorite chair and compare the carpet from underneath the couch to the carpet that is just in front of the couch. The carpet normally under the couch is protected from dirt and spills so it will likely be close to its original condition. The traffic lane will not be as lustrous as the protected carpet, and it might have a few stains. You can add years to the life of your carpets, restore luster and protect high-traffic areas by following these simple tips: • Vacuum often especially over high-traffic areas; dirt is one of the most destructive elements your carpet will face. • Use a high quality vacuum, this is important to remove as much dirt as possible • Sweep outside walkways and your front and back porch regularly to help prevent tracking dirt inside your home. • Use entrance mats outside and inside. • Have your carpets professionally cleaned at least once a year. Ask a professional about carpet appearance programs that can show you how to not only take care of your carpets, but create a healthy home. If high-traffic has damaged your carpets, it’s not too late. Most professionals will give extra attention to these soiled areas, removing months of accumulated dirt and grime. Professional cleaning prevents carpets from wearing out prematurely. Keeping your carpets clean, especially those high-traffic areas, this not only improves the look of your home, but it also extends the life of your carpets. Depending on the size of your family and lifestyle, consider having your carpets professionally cleaned by the experts, I recommend every six months. The more often you have your carpets thoroughly cleaned, the longer they will last.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Josh Jabara

2008-10-01 15:56:00

Question: With the recent rains, our basement leaked and therefore our carpet got wet. What are our options?

Answer: When there is water damage and carpets. Water damage can be severe and sudden and recognizing that one moment everything at home is apparently fine and the next, you have an enormous water problem on your hands, when water damage occurs such as flooding or heavy storms. Water damage can bring on most of the problems. Water damage can vary from simple broken water pipes or water heaters to bigger and more devastating water damage from flooding and heavy storms. Flooding causes the most damage to carpet and to hard wood floors. Properly disposing of carpet, vinyl, and hard wood can sometimes be a hassle. Recognizing how much devastation water damage can reek upon residential homes within minutes. Household items that have been damaged by water and left untreated for a long time can pose serious health hazards, creating unsanitary health conditions. Mold and mildew result in serious contamination and sanitation concerns. In all of these situations, water extraction is a very important step in removing water to begin the process of drying and sanitizing your home. Focusing on drying your home and disinfecting it can help your carpet and keep water damage more under control. Once this is controlled then everything else can be controlled as well. Keeping the carpets and house dry is very important. If wall to wall carpeting has been wet it probably should be removed and disposed of. However in some cases it can be removed and clean it for reinstallation. If wet carpet is removed and cleaned with 24-48 hours it might have a chance. If you don’t leave the carpet to dry then it will be ruined. Area rugs can often be cleaned and salvaged. Area rugs should be taken extra care of, some can be difficult to dry others can’t be salvaged. When a carpet stays wet for a long time it is automatically ruined, making sure that you keep the carpet dry and disinfecting it can really make a difference. By disinfecting the carpet you can get rid of bacteria in most situations. When the mold and bacteria start to grow there are major health problems. Changing the padding and tack strips if there is any mold or water can make the padding more useful. Tack strips should be cleaned and dried. Carpets in basements should be cleaned and dried and make sure there are no mold or bacteria in the house. If the basement is just made out of concrete or hard floors dry this as soon as possible to prevent from CO2 poisoning or mold in the house. These types of floors are more vulnerable. Making sure that they are clean is the best way to know that you are safe. Carpets Exposed to High Pet Traffic, treating the carpets with pet shampoo or vacuuming it can diminish the allergens and mite problems. Pet dander can cause health problems for people who are allergic to animals or who have asthma. Make sure to check for hidden mold in and under wall to wall carpeting and in notorious and widespread areas which have been subject to wet conditions such as basement or floors on leaky slabs.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Jason Jabara

2008-09-01 15:06:00

Question: This year seems especially bad for fleas, are there any tips you could give on getting and keeping them out of my carpet?

Answer: If you have a dog or cat, chances are that you will have a flea problem at some point. Because the little critters multiply so rapidly, getting rid of them can be extremely difficult. Luckily, there are steps you can take to minimize your misery. Read on to find out how to free your carpets of fleas…for good. The goal of treatment is to get rid of the fleas by treating the home, pets, and outside areas with insecticide. Small children should not be in the home when insecticides are being used. Birds and fish must be protected during spraying. Home foggers and flea collars do not always work. If home treatments do not work, professional extermination may be needed. The single most effective way to battle fleas in your home is to vacuum frequently, including all of the carpet (that includes under the furniture), upholstered furniture and long curtains or drapes. In the early stages of infestation, you should vacuum almost constantly. (This means every day!) Once the problem is under control, once or twice a week should be enough. There are a few things you can do to maximize your vacuuming time. First of all, it helps to place a flea collar in the vacuum bag before you begin. Additionally, you should spend extra time working over areas in which your pet spends a lot of time. Finally, throw away the vacuum bag every time you vacuum. This may seem extreme, but fleas can easily escape from the bag. Seal it carefully and dispose of it somewhere outside of your house. You should also regularly clean all of your rugs and/or mats. Wash them in warm water, and dry them thoroughly. (Fleas thrive in moist areas.) If your rug requires professional cleaning, you may want to wait until the problem is under control before returning the rug to its place. There are also a number of products available that will help rid your carpet of fleas. Such products are widely available over the counter but you can visit your vet for something even more potent. Foggers or misters work by spraying a flea-killing product into the air. Sprays, on the other hand, offer a little more control, and can get those hard-to-reach places (under the couch for example). Whatever product you use should contain both pesticide and insect growth regulator. The first takes care of the fleas themselves, while the latter prevents eggs from hatching. If you aren’t interested in buying specialty products, Borax, an all-purpose cleaning powder, is an effective household remedy. To begin, sprinkle the powder on the carpet. Next, you should brush the powder into the carpet; use a mop or a broom to really work it into the fibers. Wait a day or so before you vacuum. Don’t worry—the powder will not harm your pet. Of course, treating the carpet is only one aspect of a complete flea control plan. You should also address the fleas in your yard and, most importantly, your pet. There are a number of products available for dealing with both; consult your vet or someone at your local pet supply store. Still can’t get your flea problem under control? You may have to turn to a professional exterminator, and are generally very effective, especially when combined with the techniques listed above. Have your exterminator visit regularly if it is within your budget; otherwise, a one-time visit followed by your vigilance should do the trick.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Josh Jabara

2008-08-01 09:35:00

Question: We just installed a new patio in our back yard, and I was wondering what options do I have with regards to the surface?

Answer: Thinking outside the box - In keeping with the strange yet unavoidable desire to move the outdoors inside and the indoors outside, many people choose to put a rug or carpet outside. The practical purposes of such a thing are many: • Protects your feet from the cold ground in winter months • Provides a similar protection from the hot ground in the summer • Guards bare feet from being stubbed • A solution for a damaged or unsightly outdoor surface • Creates a unifying sense of space for your exterior décor Having soundly decided that purchasing an outdoor carpet will be done in the near future, it’s time to think about what you’re buying. Most outdoor carpets are actually designed for indoor or outdoor use and serve a primary function of capturing dirt that would otherwise be tracked inside. If you are a staunch naturalist and prefer not to decorate with synthetic materials, by all means purchase an outdoor carpet made from jute. This is a tough fiber, second only to cotton in numbers of uses and production. Known also as “hessian,” it is the primary material in burlap, though outdoor carpets are typically thicker than the sacks you are familiar with. However, we must recommend you opt for some kind of polypropylene material that is resistant to mildew and decay. By and large, synthetic indoor outdoor carpets can be cleaned with a thorough brooming, a hosing, or a little scrubbing. Your natural option may satisfy your need for oneness with the outdoors, but plan on satisfying that oneness on a seasonal basis. Go synthetic and you’ll never have to buy another outdoor carpet. Rugged commercial outdoor carpet Generally crafted from needled polypropylene yarns, these models pass all fire safety requirements and can be relied on for years of use without noticeable wear. They are often ribbed for looks and to better adhere to the bottom of shoes. Most suppliers should provide you with custom cut sizes in addition to their standard cuts. Often they provide die-cut tiles for a mix of color or parquet patterns. On the aesthetic side Of course you can spend some more money and get the same function with a little pizzazz. These are recommended for a number of needs. If you have an outdoor hearth, swimming pool, or any place where you entertain, this would be a good choice. Not only does it provide a cooler surface in the summer and a warmer one in the winter, but it will prevent slips and keep the mud out of your home. Synthetic natural When you would prefer a consistent, cohesive look to your outdoor landscaping but grass or mulch won’t work, artificial grass will do the trick. These styles are great for docks, pool sides, your potting sheds, and garages. They even make great choices for personal putting greens.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Jason Jabara

2008-07-01 15:11:00

Question: Can someone please help me understand all the verbiage associated with Oriental Rugs?

Answer: Great question and I’ll try to sort out the different terms. Handmade: With referring to handmade this can mean many things. Price and quality depend on a number of factors I’ve listed below Hand tufted: A tufted rug is made using a mechanical tufting tool that secures and inserts the yarns in the backing, often canvas. Since the tufted yarns are not securely enclosed by a “knot,” the backs of these rugs are usually sprayed or painted with adhesives to secure the pile yarn. These rugs cannot be truly called “Oriental rugs.” Hand knotted: In a hand-knotted rug, each yarn is individually tied in a knot by the weaver. Each knot of yarn is tied securely around 2 or 3 strands of “warp yarn,” which is the vertical yarn set up initially on the loom as the basis for the rug that will be woven upon it. This is a completely hand-made process, no mechanical tools are used. A hand-knotted rug will be more expensive than a tufted rug. In addition, a hand-knotted rug made in the “crossed” style of weaving is more time consuming and durable (and expensive) than an uncrossed rug. Shearing: After the rug is woven, overall shearing of the pile is done by hand, to an even depth, or to variations of textural depth specified by the designer. Shapes within the overall design are usually incised, cut around carefully by hand to create dimension and clarity of design. Knot count: refers to “knots per square inch.” The more detailed and complex the design, and the finer/thinner the wool, the more knots are required for clarity of color and design. High-quality rugs usually range from 50 to 100 knots per inch. Imagine the work that goes into that kind of hand weaving! Knot density will affect the cost of the rug. Where was the rug made? You’ve heard of a Persian rug or a Chinese rug or a Tibetan rug--all of which fall into the Oriental rug category, which covers rugs from China to Viet Nam, Turkey to Tibet, Iran to India. The finest Tibetan rugs are hand knotted in Nepal and India, often by organizations that employ local families in the rug-making process, says Barbara Jacobs, an artist who designs her own line of rugs, What is it made of? Materials: Many Oriental rugs are made from wool and/or silk. As the basis and primary material, wool is the most resilient, comfortable and durable material to use in these rugs. To add variations of color, texture and design, silk is often used as a “highlight” accent. Another interesting and durable material that is used for textural and color variation is the fiber called “Allo,” or Himalayan Nettle plant. Oriental rugs often incorporate hand-dyeing and hand-carding as part of the weaving process. Should I order a rug sight unseen? Time: As with all custom furnishings, high-quality rugs take time to produce. If you don’t find what you want in stock, you can order a rug and expect delivery in about four months, Barbara Jacobs says. Customizing your rug will take longer and will usually carry a surcharge because with each change that is made a new “graph” or design pattern needs to be made by the manufacturers prior to starting the rug. Additional fees may also apply when you ask a designer to create custom variations and color specifications. Strikeoff: This term refers to a sample size rug, made in order to confirm colors for a custom order. Usually these samples are from one foot square to two feet square. There is typically a fee for creating the samples, since yarn has to be dyed and the piece has to be woven as if it is a miniature rug. The design on a strikeoff, however, is not of the entire rug but rather of a corner piece or other segment to show yarn types, colors, and weaving style. Pros and cons: Although there is a nominal additional cost, and many weeks added to the production process, you will have an actual piece of rug to see (and keep), that has your custom color selections incorporated in it. This can be particularly helpful if you will be shopping for other furnishings for the same room or adjacent areas.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Josh Jabara

2008-06-01 13:45:00

Question: We’re thinking of replacing the flooring in our bathroom, and would like to know the differences between vinyl tile, and linoleum. Could you please help?

Answer: This is a very good question because some think they are one and the same. Vinyl • Vinyl tile is one of the best values in flooring. It’s easy to install as some manufacturers offer glue-less while others offer a peel “n” stick. Either way vinyl tile is the easiest floor to install. It can be installed anywhere in the home, and in any room, including bathrooms. It can also be installed on all levels including below grade sub-flooring. However there are some things you may want to consider. Vinyl tile has a lower life expectancy; it will not last as long as hardwood, ceramic tile or linoleum. If you’re using peel “n” stick, seams will be present that can accumulate dirt and moisture. If water seeps into tile seams it can create maintenance, adhesive bonding and sub-floor issues. Another thing to consider is that resilient, vinyl tile is easier to gouge and tear than ceramic tile. In higher traffic areas, be sure to install thicker vinyl tile for better performance. Also Vinyl tile is less likely than natural flooring products to enhance the monetary value of your home. Linoleum • Linoleum is made from natural ingredients. The floor patterns and vivid, saturated colors create dramatic design statements worthy of Mother Nature. Linoleum life spans can last 40 years or more. The pattern and color extend through the thickness of product, so even if the flooring begins to wear down, the design and color remain. Linoleum also resists damage and is easy to clean. And when protected with a manufacturer’s bonded coating, linoleum resists dirt, scratches, scuffs, and cleans easily with sweeping and occasional mopping. This is an excellent choice for active households. Linoleum’s long life span makes it one of the most cost-effective flooring options. It’s one of the “Greenest” Floors and environmentally preferred linoleum is made of abundantly available, renewable natural materials. Some considerations with Linoleum are that it’s difficult to install, and professional installation is highly recommended. Some also may require special maintenance. Unprotected floors must be polished to prevent damage to the design and if the polish wears off, high pH cleaners such as ammonia can discolor the floor. With installation you can sometimes experience a “Drying Room Film” and Odor. New Linoleum has a yellow cast and a harmless odor; both of which dissipate when exposed to light and air.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Jason Jabara

2008-05-01 13:20:00

Question: There are so many different types of carpet cleaning methods; could someone please explain the differences?

Answer: There are primarily 4 different carpet cleaning methods currently being used. Each method has its own advantages, and disadvantages, I’ll try to break it down to make it as simple as possible. •Bonnet Cleaning: The advantage is that it is normally faster, less expensive; it tends to dry fast, and is excellent for high traffic area. The disadvantage for this type of cleaning is that it only cleans the surface. •Hot Water Extraction: This is a very good method, as it deep cleans and sanitizes your carpet. This method is also good to help control odors. This method does have some disadvantages, as it does take longer to dry. The equipment used can be more expensive, and that of course relates to higher cleaning cost to the customer. Not necessarily a problem for the consumer, but this method usually requires more training for the technicians. With this method wicking can sometimes be a problem. •Dry Foam Shampoo: It makes sense that using a dry method would reduce any wicking problems that can occur with wet applications. This method is very good with odor control, and in most cases is relatively less expensive. The disadvantage is that the carpet can re-soil quickly, and in some case excessive chemicals are used. With the chemicals involved it’s very important that vacuuming is done thorough upon completion. •Dry Extraction: The big advantage here is no drying time, and again this method tends not to produce any wicking problems. There is not too much training involved with this particular method. However there is usually a chemical odor present and the carpet can re-soil quickly. This method is also very labor intensive and in most cases it is the most expensive. Remember have professionals clean your carpets to keep them looking nice, and help with wear. This will also help with getting the maximum life out of your carpet.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Josh Jabara

2008-04-01 12:10:00

Question: There are so many different kinds of carpets today, what tips could you give me that would help determine the best carpet for my house?

Answer: Key factors to consider would be - Who will be using the room? Do you have kids? Or how about pets? Is there a big yard leading right into your new carpet? Or is it in a room away from entrances? Do you want a soft, comfortable floor you can sit on in front of a fireplace, or when the kids are playing video games? Do you hate footprints and tracking but love big family functions? If it’s your bedroom, how do you want it to feel the first thing in the morning when your bare feet touch that plush carpet? Be sure to tell your flooring sales professional so they can help you with the right options. Carpets made of nylon and polypropylene can go anywhere in the house as far as style is concerned. So whether you buy a polypropylene berber style or a more formal look in nylon, you can be confident it will perform. In fact, these are the most popular choices and the two best performing fibers with nylon taking the lead. Polyester does have great softness but is less likely to hold up in high traffic areas. You might want to consider polyester for your bedrooms because of its soft, plush feel and because of reduced traffic in these areas. For sheer luxury and cache, you can’t beat wool. While it is the priciest of carpet options, you’ll see a wide variety of gorgeous looks and fashions in wool to fit any décor. Plus wool’s natural qualities ensure that you’ll be satisfied with how it looks and wears for years to come. What you choose depends on what you need. When thinking fashion, consider the following: What are your colors? What’s your look – modern, traditional, contemporary? How big is the room? Does it get a lot of light? One thing is for sure; especially if it’s for your home, get the best quality carpet you can afford that’s appropriate for the application. It’s an investment in your home that’s worth making. Most carpet features performance rating guidelines that are based on a 5-point scale; the higher the score, the better. A lot depends on the application. While a plush velvet may be the right choice for your living room, you’re not likely to put it in the basement. At the same time, a solid nylon berber in the busy family room with a polypropylene or blended carpet might be ideal. The single most important factor though may be simply this – that you love the way it makes your home look and feel.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Jason Jabara

2008-03-01 09:38:00

Question: Which method of carpet cleaning is best?

Answer: There are several ways to clean carpets, some being more effective than others. A dry foam method applies shampoo to your carpet, allows it to dry, and then, without rinsing, removes the dried shampoo via a vacuum. Can you imagine applying shampoo to your hair, allowing it to dry and then removing the shampoo from your head with a vacuum? This method leaves a dirty residue in your carpet, and is one of the reasons dry foam is not very effective. Another method is Absorbent pad or Bonnet cleaning. This method is similar to dry foam, except that a large cotton bonnet is set on your carpet. The rotating motion causes the bonnet to absorb dirt from your carpet. Absorbent pad or Bonnet cleaning is like trying to use a large cotton towel or mop to rub the dirt out of your carpet. As you can imagine this method is not very effective either. Hot water extraction is a way of saying that a hot water cleaning solution, under high pressure, is forced into your carpet and then extracted from your carpet. In a recent Technical Bulletin by the world’s largest carpet manufacturer, Shaw Industries recommends the hot water extraction method. There are two different types of hot water extraction: (1) Truck-mount which is done with a large machine mounted in a truck or van. (2) Portable extraction, which is done with a small, portable, or hand-held unit. Shaw Industries Technical Bulletin also states that cleaning should be done from a truck-mounted unit outside the facility with only the hose and wand brought inside. However where a truck-mounted unit cannot reach, a portable, self-contained system may be brought in to the facility. Shaw recommends the truck-mounted unit first. The truck-mounted unit cleans much better because it heats the water to a higher temperature, and shoots the cleaning solution into the carpet at higher pressures. This breaks up the dirt, bacteria, and pollens that are in the carpet. Truck-mounted extraction systems also use a high powered vacuum to draw the dirt and chemicals out of your carpet. Some people believe that hot water damages your carpet; however this is a myth. By washing and then rinsing your carpet with hot water it cleans your carpet completely in the same manner that a person who showers and then rinses off the dirt and soap will be much cleaner than a person who takes only a sponge bath.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Josh Jabara

2008-02-01 10:12:00

Question: What is the difference between an “engineered” wood floor and a “solid” wood floor?

Engineered Wood Floors Engineered wood flooring is actually produced of three or more layers made up of an inner core of hardwood and/or softwood plywood or HDF and a top layer of real hardwood that is glued on the surface of the core. The cores also incorporate a tongue and groove system, with the layers being formed in a cross-grain pattern and bonded together under heat and pressure. As a result, engineered wood flooring is less likely to be affected by changes in humidity. This type of flooring is slightly more resistant to higher moisture levels than solid wood flooring. That’s why it can be installed on any grade level whether the installation site is above, below or at ground level. This moisture-resistance feature also allows the engineered wood floor to be installed in basements. Engineered wood flooring is usually an easier do-it-yourself installation, and comes in a wide variety of styles, sizes, and species. Some brands have a thin wear layer that can only be re-coated and cannot be sanded and refinished after the use. The other brands or styles have a very thick wear layer and can be sanded and refinished up to 4 – 5 times if they wear out. Engineered floors can be nailed, stapled or glued down, or floated over a wide variety of sub-floors, including some types of existing flooring. This type of flooring is usually manufactured in two ways, a ‘sliced’ cut where the hardwood wear layer shows an original look of the wood and finer graining. The other is a ‘rotary’ cut, which shows a dramatic wilder graining. Solid Wood Floor Solid wood flooring is milled from a hardwood species, and is noted for adding overall structural strength to the building in which it is installed. Varieties that are commonly used are oak, cherry, birch, alder, maple, jatoba, and some other exotic hardwoods. Uniformity varies with solid wood, as some grades allow for some imperfections, species - multiple knots, etc. Solid wood is also prone to expansion, warping, cupping, in some degree when exposed to temperature changes. Solid wood generally expands and contracts more than engineered wood during climatic changes, and is usually unsuitable for application in any area with increased moisture or high temperatures. Although it’s noted for its additional strength, a solid wood floor is usually not recommended where the area is not environmentally controlled, or damp areas such as below grade installations and over radiant heat.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Aaron McPeak

2008-02-01 10:12:00

We bought new carpeting about a year ago. Some of the seams have always shown but now more so than ever. Additionally, there are wrinkles. We have called the carpet company where we bought it but they say we signed off on it when they finished and can’t do anything for us. Why are these showing up now a year later?

Assuming your seams were constructed to CRI (Carpet & Rug Institute) standards by a qualified installer, seam visibility is part of broadloom carpet appearance. Most rooms are wider then 12’ wide requiring a seam and visibility is going to be a fact of life. The largest factor in determining how visible a seam will be is to analyze the lighting in the room. Seams construction perpendicular to a light source will create a shadow that will be easily seen. When determining the material necessary, the estimator should have drawn a scale drawing and noted any significant windows, doors or other light sources. Every effort should have been made to reduce the number of seams by reducing fill pieces or considering a carpet that comes in 15 or 13’6 widths if this would have helped in removing seams. Many times by purchasing a couple more yards, a seam can be removed or moved if seam visibility is a big issue. The style of carpet being chosen also has a significant effect on seam visibility. Looped carpets or those with pattern matches are more difficult to hide then a textured or a frieze piece. An improperly made seam may also be the culprit if the edges are gapped or overlapped. A seam may be remade at least once, however, this is usually not going to solve the problem. Proper planning and discussions with your retailer and installer are always the best way to insure that you will have the best seam placement possible. Carpet wrinkles are a combination of the following factors: humidity and temperature at the time of the install, proper installation using a power stretcher, proper cushion and the quality of carpet. In Kansas, the humidity and temperature can vary greatly making the carpet hard to work with in cold weather and causing the carpet to loosen with the change in seasons. Ideally, carpet has time to acclimate before installation and heating is absolutely required to allow the installer to work with the carpet to get a proper installation. CRI (Carpet & Rug Institute) standards require that stretched carpet be power stretched. Power stretching is a tool with a head that has pins, a pump handle and poles that are braced against an opposing wall. While a knee kicker is a useful tool during the installation it is impossible to get a proper stretch without the use of a power stretcher. CRI standards state that an inappropriate use of cushion may result in wrinkling and buckling and that the cushion thickness should not exceed 7/16 inch. Most manufacturers suggest a firm dense cushion for the best performance. Higher quality carpet will normally have either a higher pic backing or “softbac” that are construction methods that help reduce the need for a re-stretch, however, these enhancements do add to the price of the carpet. Any reputable installer or retail store offers a re-stretch as part of the installation warranty to account for the known factors that cause this wrinkling. Re-stretching your carpet does require the rooms to be emptied and involves an installer using a power stretcher to remove the wrinkles and trim back the excess carpet.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Jason Jabara

2008-01-01 14:23:00

What are some home improvement projects that will increase the resale value of my home?

Answer: Here are a few ideas you might want to consider. Bathroom Remodel It costs about $10,500 to replace the tub, tile surround, floor, toilet, sink, vanity and fixtures. You’ll get back an average of $10,700 at resale, a recoup rate of 102%. If you can pipe a child’s name on a birthday cake, you can re-caulk a tub. Use a softener to get rid of the old caulk. Fill the tub with water after you’re done to stretch caulk while it dries. If your old tub is too large to fit out the door, re-glaze it for a like-new finish. Cost: $300 to $400. Landscaping The average homeowner spends about $3,502 for landscaping and another $1,465 on a designer, according to the American Nursery & Landscape Association. Not sure where to start? Local garden centers often offer free design services, or ask the neighbors what works for them. Sod costs about 30 to 35 cents a square foot, so a 5,000sq. ft. yard would cost about $1,500 to sod. Kitchen Remodel A minor kitchen remodel averages $14,913 and brings in $14,691 at resale, a recoup rate of 98.5%. Go for the minor remodel when your kitchen needs a cosmetic update and not a drastically different floor plan. A $15,000 kitchen update covers 30 feet of re-facing for cabinets and drawers, a new wall oven, cook-top, sink and fixtures, laminate countertops and resilient flooring. You may want to consider recessed lights 3’ to 5’ apart on center and 18” from cabinets to light the countertops. And remember running the lights between two joists is easier than running through the joists. Sun Rooms The average family room addition costs $54,464 and adds $45,458 at resale, a recoup rate of 83%. However the highest recoup rates occur in high- cost Western markets. A sunroom counts in the home’s square footage only when the room is heated and cooled for year round use. A sunroom normally will only add value in upscale neighborhoods. It won’t bring in higher bids in lower-end neighborhoods. Bed Room Updates Cost for new lighting will vary from $100 - $500. For a romantic design touch, swap the old light fixture for a small chandelier. The formula for sizing a chandelier: Room width + Room length in feet = Chandelier diameter in inches. If any dry wall repair is needed, less really is more. Using as little joint compound as possible makes it easier to even out the surface when sanding later. Scale your window treatments to your room size. Cost to rent wallpaper steamer: $20; new bedding and window treatments: $300. Hardwood floors are hotter than ever. Pull up worn carpeting and refinish old floors to let the wood shine. Sanding hardwoods is physically demanding and if you do it wrong, you ruin the floor. Hire a pro to do the sanding and then do your own staining and sealing to save money. Cost: $1 to $1.50 a foot. Fill carpet tack holes with putty. Living Room For about $25, you can freshen up the living room walls with a coat of paint in a light, neutral color. And don’t overlook the trim--brighten it up as well with high-gloss white paint and caulk any open seams between the molding and ceiling and baseboard and wall. On the average, quality hardwood flooring ranges from $3-$8 per square foot. For a 200 square foot area, expect to spend about $1,200 if you install it yourself. Tack on another $3 per square foot if you have it professionally installed. (recommended) Sanding hardwoods is physically demanding. If you make a mistake, the floor could be ruined. Hire a pro to sand and then do your own staining and sealing to save money. Cost is $1 to $1.50 a foot. Fill carpet tack holes with Color Putty. If you have carpet in the living room, either have it professionally cleaned ($100-$150) or replaced if it’s torn, stained or has an unrelenting odor (on average $10-$30 per square foot).

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Aaron McPeak

2008-01-01 11:17:00

From time to time you have provided tips on how to get rid of spills and stains on carpet. With all of the traffic we will be getting in our home this holiday season, I thought it might be a good idea to print it again. Can you?

Answer: I would be happy to. Your course of action depends upon the type of stain and the type of carpet you purchased. Manufacturers have their own specific instructions, and it is best to follow those. However, a typical set of procedures will provide the following general guidelines. First of all, a few general tips: Remove stains as quickly as possible to ensure optimum success. Absorb wet spills by blotting-never rubbing or scrubbing-repeatedly with white paper or cloth towels. Work from the outer edge into the center of the stain to avoid spreading. Also rinse thoroughly with soap and water after applying any cleaner to your carpet. Avoid using any harsh chemicals that may permanently damage your carpet. For water-soluble stains, such as alcoholic beverages, milk, mustard, greasy food or latex paint: Absorb as much of the stain as possible with white towels. If any of the stain remains, spray a solution of clear, mild liquid detergent and water onto the stain (use one-quarter teaspoon of detergent to 32 ounces of water). For tougher stains, such as those caused by urine or coffee, use a solution of one part white vinegar and one part water before applying the detergent. For dried blood or wine, use a household solution of one tablespoon ammonia to one cup of water (except in the case of wool or wool-blend carpet) prior to the detergent. In all cases, rinse with clean water to remove the detergent residue. For oil-based stains, such as crayon, ink, oil-based paint or auto grease: Absorb as much as possible with white towels. Using protective gloves, apply an oil and grease spot remover for carpets to a paper towel and continue to blot. Do not pour or spray this product directly on the carpet, since it could cause damage. Repeat as necessary. Follow with the steps for water-soluble stains to completely remove the stain. For such stains as chewing gum and candle wax: Freeze the stain with ice or a commercially available product in an aerosol can. Shatter the ice with a blunt object and vacuum immediately. Follow this procedure with the oil and grease spot remover. Many difficult stains - such as asphalt, coffee, grease, ink and urine - may require professional cleaning.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Aaron McPeak

2007-12-01 10:04:00

We got new carpet not too long ago. In some places, it is wrinkling, and the seams are beginning to show more as well. What causes that?

Carpet wrinkles are a combination of the following factors: humidity and temperature at the time of the install, proper installation using a power stretcher, and proper cushion and the quality of carpet. In Kansas, the humidity and temperature can vary greatly making the carpet hard to work with in cold weather and causing the carpet to loosen with the change in seasons. Ideally, carpet has time to acclimate before installation and heating is absolutely required to allow the installer to work with the carpet to get a proper installation. CRI (Carpet & Rug Institute) standards require that stretched in carpet be power-stretched. A power stretcher is a tool with a head that has pins, a pump handle and poles that are braced against an opposing wall. While a knee kicker is a useful tool during the installation it is impossible to get a proper stretch without the use of a power stretcher. CRI standards also state that a low-density cushion may result in wrinkling and buckling and that the cushion thickness should not exceed 7/16 inch in most cases. Most manufacturers suggest a firm, dense cushion for the best performance. Higher quality carpet will normally have either a higher quality backing or soft backing that are construction methods that help reduce the need for a re-stretch, however, these enhancements do add to the price of the carpet. Any reputable installer or retail store offers a re-stretch as part of the installation warranty to account for the known factors that cause this wrinkling. Re-stretching your carpet does require the rooms to be emptied and involves an installer using a power stretcher to remove the wrinkles and trim back the excess carpet. Regarding the seams showing, assuming they are constructed to CRI (Carpet & Rug Institute) standards by a qualified installer, seam visibility is part of broadloom carpet appearance. Most rooms are wider then 12’ (the width of most carpets) and thus will require a seam. Short story is that seams are almost always visible but some factors make them more readily apparent. The largest factor in determining how visible a seam will be is to analyze the lighting in the room. Seams construction perpendicular to a light source will create a shadow that will be easily seen. When determining the material necessary the estimator should draw a scale drawing and note any significant windows, doors or other light sources. The goal is to run the seams when possible with prominent light sources in the room. Every effort should be made to reduce the number of seams by reducing fill pieces or considering a carpet that comes in 15’ or 13’ 6” widths if this will help remove seams. Many times by purchasing a couple more yards a seam can be removed or moved if seam visibility is a big issue. The style of carpet being chosen also has a significant effect on seam visibility. Looped carpets or those with pattern matches are more difficult to hide then a textured or a frieze piece. An improperly made seam may also be the culprit if the edges are gapped or overlapped. Proper planning and discussions with your retailer and installer are the best way to insure that you will have the best seam-construction and seam-placement possible.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Josh Jabara

2007-12-01 10:04:00

: How do I determine the proper size chandelier for my foyer? Answer: Simply add the dimensions together. For example, if your foyer is 12’ by 16’, add the 12 plus 16 to get 28. The proper size chandelier would be 28” in diameter. This works for any room. Make sure the bottom of the fixture does not hang more than 7’ from the floor. If windows are present, center the fixture in the window so it can be seen from outside. Question: How do I determine the proper size chandelier for a dining table? Answer: Choose a chandelier with a diameter half the width of the table. It should be hung with the bottom of the fixture 30” above the tabletop for an 8’ ceiling. Raise the fixture 3” for each additional foot of ceiling. Question: What is the proper height to install wall sconces? Answer: Wall sconces should be installed 60” from the floor. To illuminate an entire hallway, the wall sconces should be placed eight to ten feet apart. Question: What is a good way to get optimal lighting in my bathroom? Answer: Position wall sconces on both sides of the mirror at least 28” apart and 60” above the floor. To fully surround your face with light, install a fixture that is at least 24” wide over the mirror. Adding a ceiling fixture can help balance the room with light. Question: What size outdoor lantern do I need on my house? Answer: You should think of the location from which the fixtures will be seen. While providing safety and security, front lanterns mainly add to the décor of your house. Also, think about the position of the fixture in relation to the outlet box. Does the fixture need to project upwards or does it need to hang below the junction box? The normal mounting height for an outdoor fixture is 66” above the ground, slightly above eye level. Question: When should I use portable lamps in a room? Answer: Portable lighting sho

Answer: A chandelette is a miniature chandelier. They have a smaller diameter than most other chandeliers; yet have all the features and details of a full-sized chandelier. You place them in your bathroom, breakfast nook or stairway landing. Question: How do I determine the proper size chandelier for my foyer? Answer: Simply add the dimensions together. For example, if your foyer is 12’ by 16’, add the 12 plus 16 to get 28. The proper size chandelier would be 28” in diameter. This works for any room. Make sure the bottom of the fixture does not hang more than 7’ from the floor. If windows are present, center the fixture in the window so it can be seen from outside. Question: How do I determine the proper size chandelier for a dining table? Answer: Choose a chandelier with a diameter half the width of the table. It should be hung with the bottom of the fixture 30” above the tabletop for an 8’ ceiling. Raise the fixture 3” for each additional foot of ceiling. Question: What is the proper height to install wall sconces? Answer: Wall sconces should be installed 60” from the floor. To illuminate an entire hallway, the wall sconces should be placed eight to ten feet apart. Question: What is a good way to get optimal lighting in my bathroom? Answer: Position wall sconces on both sides of the mirror at least 28” apart and 60” above the floor. To fully surround your face with light, install a fixture that is at least 24” wide over the mirror. Adding a ceiling fixture can help balance the room with light. Question: What size outdoor lantern do I need on my house? Answer: You should think of the location from which the fixtures will be seen. While providing safety and security, front lanterns mainly add to the décor of your house. Also, think about the position of the fixture in relation to the outlet box. Does the fixture need to project upwards or does it need to hang below the junction box? The normal mounting height for an outdoor fixture is 66” above the ground, slightly above eye level. Question: When should I use portable lamps in a room? Answer: Portable lighting should be used where additional task lighting is needed. The bottom of a lampshade for either a floor lamp or table lamp should be approximately 42” from the floor.

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Carpet, Tile & Floor Covering

Josh Jabara

2007-11-01 10:18:00

I’m sure there are lots of tips when it comes to saving money when one buys carpet or flooring, but I am more interested now in how to protect what I have purchased. I recently purchased an entire houseful of different types of floor covering, from carpeting to ceramic tile. Do you have any information as to cleaning and taking care of all these types of flooring surfaces?

Answer: Thank you for the question. We get it quite frequently. Here is a listing of several bits of information that may be helpful.

Question: How can I maintain my carpet warranty?

Answer: There are three key things to do to maintain your carpet warranty: 1. Vacuum frequently 2. Clean spills promptly 3. Have periodic professional carpet cleanings

Question: Why is vacuuming important?

Answer: The most important thing you can do to keep your carpet looking great is to vacuum it thoroughly and frequently, particularly in high traffic areas. Vacuuming helps remove dirt particles which dull and mat the carpet’s appearance. Also, use walk-off mats at entrances to minimize dirt particles being tracked onto the carpet and to reduce soil accumulation.

Question: Why is cleaning my carpet necessary?

Answer: Regular carpet cleaning and maintenance are needed to keep your carpet looking great year after year. During everyday use, soil clings to carpet fibers and dulls carpet beauty and causes matting and packing. These particles accumulate and dull the carpet’s original color.

Question: How do I clean up common household food and beverage spills?

Answer: The following "Basic Cleaning Steps" (BCS) are effective for most stains caused by spills. Here’s what you will need: clean white cloths and ¼ teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent per 1 cup warm water. 1. Immediately scoop up as much of the spill as possible. Then blot, do not rub, area with clean white cloths to remove excess moisture. Use a wet/dry vacuum if spill is large. 2. Apply warm, not hot, water to stained area and blot with white cloths. Repeat until no stain is evident on towels. If stain remains on carpet, make a solution of ¼ teaspoon liquid dishwashing detergent to one cup water. Using clean, white cloth, apply the solution to the stained area, and let soak about five minutes. Rinse with clear warm water and blot to remove excess moisture. Repeat until all detergent is removed to avoid re-soiling. 3. Absorb any remaining moisture with layers of white paper towels weighted with non-staining glass or ceramic object. When carpet is dry, vacuum or brush the pile to restore texture. *Reappearing Stains: After drying, if the stain reappears, it may be because some of the stain remained deep in the pile or pad and wicked up to the surface. If so, repeat step 2.

Question: How often should my carpet be cleaned?

Answer: Your carpet should be vacuumed regularly but should not be done so that cleaning is excessive. We also recommend professional cleaning once every 18 months.

Question: Which professional cleaning method is recommended?

Answer: Most professionals use hot water extraction, which is more commonly known as steam cleaning. Other cleaning methods include absorbent pad or bonnet cleaning, rotary shampoo, and dry foam powder. Wet or dry methods, properly done, are acceptable for regular maintenance cleanings. However, hot water extraction is required for most warranty services.

Question: What do I do if regular care does not take care of a particular stain or problem?

Answer: Please contact either the manufacturer or the place where you purchased your carpeting for proper direction on how to treat a particular stain or problem.

Question: How do I care for my new laminate floor?

Answer: Vacuum using the wand attachment, use a dust mop or wipe with a damp cloth. For spills, just wipe up with a cloth or sponge. In very sandy areas or at the beach, sweep or vacuum regularly. Do not use soap based detergents or "mop and shine" products, as these may leave a dull film on your floor. Do not use abrasive cleaners, steel wool, or scouring powder, which can scratch your floor. Do not wax or polish your floor. When necessary, use a well squeezed damp mop with the manufacturer’s floor cleaner. Laminate floor, like other types of smooth floors, can become slippery when wet. Allow time for floor to dry after washing. Immediately wipe up wet areas from spills, foreign substances or wet feet.

Question: How do I care for my ceramic or tile floor?

Answer: Wipe tiles periodically with a cloth or sponge dampened with a non oil-based household cleaner. Vacuum tiles regularly to remove dirt and other gritty particles, then damp mop or sponge with an all-purpose non oil-based cleaner. Do not use ammonia, it will discolor grout. Do not use cleansers containing acid or bleach for routine maintenance. Do not use wax cleaners, oil-based detergents or sealants to maintain your tile. Do not use harsh cleaning aids like steel wool pads or any scouring pads containing metal. Do not use a cleaning agent that contains color (unglazed tile only). Do test scouring powders on a small area first. Do use a sealer on grout joints. Do have a damaged or broken tile removed and replaced by a qualified tile contractor.

Question: How do I care for the grout on my tile floors or walls?

Answer: Once the tile has been cleaned and dried (shortly after installation), grout joints should be treated with a silicone sealer. Grout, is porous and sealing it will simplify future maintenance. We recommend you apply a sealer at least twice a year for maximum stain protection.

Question: What is the best way to protect my hard surface area (s)?

Answer: In order to protect your hard surface area (tile, wood, laminate, vinyl), you might try the following things: Place high quality floor mats and area rugs near outside entrances to prevent dirt, sand and other unwanted substances from being tracked directly onto the flooring (make sure you use an area rug pad between the mat and floor); try to support heavy furniture and appliances with wide-bearing glides or casters; affix felt floor protectors on moveable furniture, including chairs, tables, and sofas, that sit directly on hard surface flooring.

Question: How do I care for my wood floor?

Answer: In order to protect your hardwood floor and ensure its longevity make sure you sweep, vacuum, or dust mop regularly to prevent sand or abrasive dust build up that can scratch the floor’s finish. Also, blot up spills immediately with a damp cloth. Try to periodically clean the floors using a leading brand of cleaner for pre-finished hardwood floors, but do not use ammonia or oil-based wax, polish, abrasive cleaners, or furniture cleaners.