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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Richard Smith

2013-06-25 09:31:11

Q-My headlights are so foggy that even my porch light emits more light than they do. Is there an easy remedy for this?

A-There is no getting around it—over time headlights fade. Of course, oxidation has a lot to do with that, turning the once clear lens a dim yellow color. Additionally, the very act of driving causes some damage, with bugs, winds and debris constantly hitting the lens and scratching them. This results in swirl marks and hazing. Eventually, it can become so scratched that very little light can get through, making driving dangerous. One solution is replacement. Another is reviving. Reviving the lens involves using special products to clean the plastic, and then polish out the scratches that impede the light. There are many commercial and consumer brands on the market today made for this purpose. Not all of them, however, deliver equal or professional results. Despite their claims, some can damage the plastic even further, or leave it brittle and susceptible to more damage that would require an expensive replacement. If you do the job yourself, I suggest that you ask questions about the products and choose one with proven results. Then, be sure to follow the directions correctly. It is usually a multi-step process with time necessary between different applications. While it is a job you can do yourself, it’s one that body shops do frequently, quickly, and affordably. Ultimately, having the experts handle the job can save you a lot of time and possibly money down the line.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Jarod Stice

2013-06-25 09:28:39

Q-A commonly asked question I get is, “What causes a salvage title? Doesn’t that mean a car is junk?”

A-No, in fact it doesn’t. In many states, cars that are Junk, or damaged beyond reasonable repair, are given a Junk title. They can never be put back on the road, no matter the repairs made. A salvage title, is a brand given by an insurance company, at their discretion, after a vehicle has had a “Total Loss.” This is the price point at which it is in the better interest for the insurance company to replace the vehicle rather than to have it repaired. The payment on the claim, whether it be with a monetary check, or an actual replacement vehicle, is processed, the vehicle is then claimed as property of the insurance company, and sold at a salvage auction. The point of “Total Loss” is calculated by an array of variables, some far above my head, and others very basic. They include price of parts, price of labor, availability of parts, cost of a rental car during repairs, towing and storage bills, value of car-combining mileage, previous damage, and any added values. You can see how quickly things can add up against a car getting repaired. I would venture to say, you or someone you know may have had a little fender bender in the last few years. Maybe this was a deer hit straight to the grille of your truck. How many people do you know that were surprised to hear their vehicle was totaled out after a collision, even though it may have appeared to be minor damage? What if that old truck just had a new motor or transmission put into it? Or, maybe had the front end rebuilt and a coolant flush? None of those things count as added value to a vehicle because they are typically considered maintenance, and don’t help in keeping your truck from being salvaged. “Does a vehicle with a salvage title lose value?” Yes it does. Immediately after a car is given a salvage title, it does lose value on a dealer’s lot, and in all aspects of its life except its ability to provide transportation for you. If a 2005 Chevrolet 1500 Silverado worth $12,000 is wrecked, say we hit a deer, and the repairs are estimated at $4,000. If this vehicle is fixed by the insurance company and not given a salvage title, it loses no value. If it is however not immediately repaired, but given a salvage title, paid out as a total loss, sold at auction, repaired for only $2,000 cost and placed back on the market, it is now arguably worth less than the same truck repaired 3 months before, perhaps by the same shop that would have done the repairs the first time. “Is there value in buying a salvage vehicle” Most certainly! I love salvage titles, where else can you save sometime 20-30% off the sticker price of a vehicle and not get a total lemon? If I am paying that much less for a car, just to acknowledge that it was damaged and repaired, I’ll happily take those savings up front. In the scenario above with our 2005 Chevrolet, if the repairs were made without giving the truck the salvage title, you would get the same truck with the same repairs and history, but maybe not be made aware that something had happened to the truck you are purchasing. Please be aware, you will never get full retail out of your car after a salvage title, so you must buy it with that in mind. They are not always good cars to trade every 6 months, but they are great drivers to get you to and from, haul the kiddos around, even put the grandkids in for high school and try to make it last with them behind the wheel. In closing, a salvage title is simply a “brand” or title that all insurance companies are required by law to place on a vehicle that has been claimed as a “total loss.” I have seen many houses that have had storm damage, say needed a roof, new siding, and 3 windows. This damage may have far exceeded the actual value of the home itself. Often we repair these homes, place them on the market and try to capitalize off of the damage and the repairs. We don’t simply claim these homes as salvage for asthetic damage, so why would we do the same for a car that can be repaired properly and put back to safe road conditions? There are other things to know if you or someone you know ever has an insurance claim, and how to properly handle values of salvage titles, being able to owner retain your own vehicle if you don’t want to lose it, and also how to establish the value of your vehicle properly. We will cover all of these in future articles.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Richard Smith

2013-05-29 13:12:26

Q: Summer is getting near, and I have the bug. I am aching to take on a project car. It is something I have always wanted to do, but never attempted mostly due to time. I'm the kind of guy that likes bigger projects but need to kind of reel myself in. I don't want be working on it until 2025. Do any of you car guys have any suggestions on finding the right car and sourcing parts?

A: Nothing like the summer months to kick restoration and cruising season into high gear. Finding the right car for the project is your first task, and maybe the most important. As you mentioned, when you look for a car, you will want to keep in mind the amount of restoration needed so you can complete it in a reasonable amount of time. Factor in your own expertise. You might be exceptional at the mechanics but not body work, for example, so look for something more in your wheelhouse to save time. Also, you might want to choose something with parts that are not near impossible to find. Now, there are many ways to find that perfect project car, and parts, and it may take looking into all of the sources before you find exactly what you want. Here is what I would try: 1. Put out the word with friends and coworkers. They may already have what you need. 2. Check Craigslist, Auto Trader and other listings. 3. Attend a classic car show or car club and connect to others with the same interest 4. Talk to your local mechanics and auto body specialists. They are a great resource for information on where you can find cars and the necessary parts to finish the projects. If in question, your local auto body shop can help you decide. Take pictures to them and they should be able to sit down with you and go over the do's and dont's. They will want to give thorough advice however, so make sure that they have time to do this and you have not shown up at a busy time of their day so you get the best information. Your local shop can even help by purchasing your parts and repair. There is nothing like finding a diamond in the rough at a great price and restoring the gem to its original beauty. Good luck, and stop by if we can be of any help.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Nate Evans

2013-05-29 11:54:31

Q-Do you really think we will see the Google driverless car as a common part of the American car culture?

A-To be honest, not really. The driverless car, which is a project developed by Google, uses a system of sensors and controls that allows the driver to put the car on "auto pilot" and let it do all the work. The team at Google have at least 10 test vehicles which have gone through real world testing. Early in 2011, there were reports of the Google's first self-driving car fender bender where two test vehicles, both Prius, had a minor collision. This leads me to my ultimate conclusion... The cars are being tested in California where there is no law prohibiting them from being on the roads. Other states have banned them already because Google has not answered the biggest question-- who is responsible for an accident? Of course Google can't want their own software to be legally blamed for any accidents, especially since traffic collisions cost more than $160 billion a year in this country. On the other hand, if the driver retains all of the responsibility, then simply turning on the system would be seen by the courts as a near guarantee that they were not paying attention. While it really is cool technology, the concerns are enough for most drivers to give it a pass. At least for now.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Jarod Stice

2013-05-29 11:18:41

Q-Is there any way to get exactly the car I want, for the price I want, when I can’t find it on any dealer’s lot locally?

A-YES! Let’s start here. Nearly all dealerships buy from the same locations, large used car auctions. The auctions have become very good at being accurate in descriptions and reports on vehicle conditions, even measuring tread depth per tire! Now I’m not saying that being a dealer is easy and anyone can do it, but I am getting to another point. Imagine this scenario: Two dealers standing at the same auction, bidding on the same car, selling to the same client (that’s you in this story), and are only limited by the amount of money they need to make on that car. That’s obviously controlled by overhead such as advertising, number of employees, benefits, transportation cost, and cost of the dealership’s location and bills. Is everyone following me at this point? I’m letting you know that the big dealership that’s been in business for years has to make more money per car to cover cost. That’s great for them because you’re paying for it. Have you ever heard of a vehicle locating service? People often see such lots and think they only have the ability to get older used cars, while they may be looking for a nearly new model. On the contrary, since all dealers buy at the same locations, there is access to any car that the large overpriced dealerships are looking at. And when a dealer has low overhead and their own transport trucks, this can save you big bucks. When sitting down with a client, they already know exactly what they want. Make and model, a range on years, say 2010-2012, maximum on mileage, say under 50,000 miles, and what price they are looking at. Again, look at other dealers’ lots, take a test drive and decide on what you like, then call a locating service when you’re serious. Next, look at the things that are arbitrary on your next vehicle. For example, it must be leather and loaded, but can be two wheel drive, gas or diesel, and what are acceptable colors, and also ones you want to stay away from (ie: I really like silver and black but definitely not white, red or turquois.). Then look at savings. How much can you save, and what will you be getting for your money. A young lady recently wanted a maroon, 2010-2012 Jeep Liberty with leather and four wheel drive. “Said” dealer was able to locate the car she wanted, purchase it and get it home, detailed and ready for her in 3 days. She had been looking for 3 weeks at other dealers and haggling on price. This particular dealer was able to save her between three and four thousand dollars. Simply by listening to the customer, and getting exactly what they want, both win.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Eddie Walsh

2013-03-25 14:32:45

Q-I heard that Mercedes is coming out with a 6wd SUV. Is it a concept? Do you think we might see more 6wd SUVs on the market?

A-In October, Mercedes will roll out about 30 6wd SUVs. The new Mercedes G63 AMG 6x6 features a bare metal cabin and power from a 185-hp diesel. The engineers over at Mercedes swapped the drive train from the G63, featuring a 5.5-litte, twin turbo V-8 good for 536 hp, mated to a seven-speed transmission. This is good enough to hustle the 8,300-lb beast to 60mph in six seconds. Of course the vehicle will still come with Mercedes brand of luxury, from quilted white leather seats to a bamboo-lined cargo area. It also comes with a hefty price tag of $457,000. The 6wd is not a concept and has actually been in military and commercial use for decades. In fact Mercedes made a few for use before WWII and has supplied a 6x6 version of the Gelandewagon to Austrian forces for a few years. Will we be seeing more of these? Probably. Will they be the next big thing on the road? I doubt it. It will cost quite a bit to run these, or ones like them. While super cool I think affordability and practicality will win out for a while.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Eddie Walsh

2013-02-01 08:42:14

Q-We are in the market for a new vehicle and top of my list in importance is safety. Are there any new or updated safety features car buyers should look for in 2013?

A-Actually, there are quite a few features you will want to consider that not only make your drive more comfortable, but much safer. Let's consider a few. If you drive for long distances, you will want to look for zero gravity seats which are designed to reduce stress on the back. The seats reduce the spinal and muscle loads and encourage blood flow. The next safety upgrade worth your attention is Backup Collision Intervention. This system uses radars fitted to the left and right rear of the car and can detect approaching vehicles, people, or objects in the vehicle's path that would prevent safe back-up. Another superb safety improvement is the front center-mounted airbag you'll see on some Buicks, GMC, and Chevrolet model vehicles. This feature provides extra protection for the front passenger as well as the driver in a side-impact crash or rollover. Next, and one of my favorite features, is the new hands-free text-messaging technologies such as the one in the 2013 Nissan Altima sedan. This feature reads text messages aloud and lets the driver respond through voice command or one button preset message such as "late" or "on my way". Each of these new safety features will not only make driving more comfortable, but may also help reduce accidents. Clearly, today’s vehicles are far more advanced than cars made just 10 years ago, which means that many consumers will find these changes intriguing and welcome.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Nate Evans

2012-11-07 11:28:36

Q- There are tons of accessories and options out there right now and it is easy to get caught up and want them all. What accessories do you think are most helpful to look for in a family vehicle?

A- You are right, the number of options for vehicles seems to increase every year, and many of them are particularly helpful if you have a family. Here is a run down of a few, whether they are “Safety” accessories, or simply luxury options. Safety accessories or options that parents are finding very useful are reverse cameras and alarm systems that sound if the car has a potential of hitting something. These are great in parking lots and driveways, especially if you have hard to see toddlers. Automatic running boards can be both a safety option and luxury. These running boards deploy when you need them, then tuck away under the vehicle while it is in operation. They are, of course, very useful in getting little ones in and out of the vehicle, as well as providing a stable “step” for drivers and passengers entering and exiting the vehicle. For those that still frown on the mini-van, the mini-van is quickly being looked at as more than just a “parent” vehicle. With all the new technology and different options, I’ve had some that hated the thought of test driving a mini-van say they’d prefer it to the SUV they bought, if they’d only have given the mini-van a chance. Automatic sliding doors have been a great option for parents toting kids. With the press of a button the sliding doors will open and shut, making loading and unloading children a breeze. Another option that makes the "must have" list is the DVD player. Particularly if you are a family that does a lot of commute time or traveling. DVD players can be a real sanity saver, just ask those parents that have the DVD player as a luxury option. Children (and adults for that matter) love being able to watch their favorite movie while commuting. For parents juggling work and family, or ones that just love to stay connected, the easy to read Uconnect feature option on Chrysler vehicles is a favorite navigation and technology hub.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Eddie Walsh

2012-06-21 08:13:23

Q: I heard rumors that the Avalanche might be discontinued, and then have not heard anything else. Is it confirmed? I am a fan of them and would hate to see them go.

A: Unfortunately, the rumors are true as confirmed by General Motors recently. GM will end the 12-year run of the Avalanche concluding with the 2013 model. The Chevy Avalanche is a crew cab offered in 2WD crew cab 130” LS, 2WD Crew Cab 130” LTZ and the 4WD Crew Cab 130” LT and 4WD Crew Cab 130” LTZ. It has a 7,800-pound towing capacity. The vehicle hit the market in 2001 and reached the height of popularity in 2003 with 93,482 units. Over the last several years, sales of the Avalanche have slipped considerably with a record low of 16,432 in 2009. Sales rebounded slightly in 2010, but apparently not enough to save the once popular vehicle. Most probably, it is a victim of the economy as sales lagged with the rise in gas prices and the shaky fiscal climate. Many buyers are buying smaller, lighter weight utility vehicles. You are not alone in your zeal for the model, though. Over 33% of Avalanche sales are a repeat buyer, which suggests that once you have experienced it you become a devotee. With the announcement, GM explained that it just did not make sense to continue production of the model. They acknowledged that they had been trying to be all things to all people and corporate strategy going forward would be to focus on core vehicles and getting every detail right. I am with you.. It is a loss in the automotive lineup.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Nate Evans

2012-04-20 11:31:55

Q: A few years ago my credit was in bad shape and I needed a van. I bought it thinking it would give me a chance to reestablish my credit. Now I am considering selling it but am upside down on the payment. I owe $18,000 but the van is only worth $8,000. I want to get rid of it but don’t know what to do. Should I just trade it in?

A: Unfortunately, you are not alone. There have always been cases of upside down car loans, but the numbers have increased significantly over the last five years. In fact, some estimates put the number at around 40% of newer car owners. Know that it happens frequently because it happens easily. Just combine a low down payment or no down payment with an auto loan with a longer term of five, six, even seven years. Then factor in the rapid depreciation that hits every new car in the first couple of years and presto, you’re upside down on your auto loan. Trading in your car is not a good idea as you’ll find yourself drowning in negative equity. What would happen is that the old car’s remaining debt would roll over into the new loan for the new car and you end up paying interest and payments on a car you no longer own. The added debt would also put you upside down on the next vehicle, putting you in a vicious cycle of debt. One option is to sell the van yourself if you can get the amount you owe. If not, my suggestion is that you hold on to the van until the van is paid off or the amount owed is roughly equal tot he current market value of the vehicle. If you need a different vehicle, I would consider buying a used car, where the initial rapid depreciation has already occurred and the starting amount owed is close to the car’s actual worth. Pay as much as possible upfront and opt for a shorter-term loan. This will prevent a debt cycle.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Eddie Walsh

2012-02-28 10:29:52

Q: I am considering buying a car with Onstar. Actually, I like the idea of Onstar. However, several people have reacted negatively and advised against using the technology. Can you explain a little of how it works and give me a few things to help weigh out the advantages or disadvantages?

A: Originally developed as a safety feature and a way to locate and communicate with accident victims, OnStar now includes hands-free email checking, directory-style services, weather or stock quotes and much more. Two of the most significant advantages include the emergency service and the GPS locator, which helps in the car’s recovery if the vehicle is stolen. The emergency services are connected to various detectors on the vehicle, so that an operator/advisor connected to the service is notified if the airbag deploys or other trouble detected. The Advanced Automatic Crash Notification System (AACN), a combination of modules and sensors, measures the severity of the accident based on gravitational force, records the data, and transmits it to the advisor. An advisor then attempts to contact the driver over the system, calls emergency services and relays the location of the vehicle via the built-in GPS signal if the driver is unresponsive or unable to communicate. The GPS feature can also track the car if it is ever stolen, making it much less appealing to thieves. Authorities can also use the technology to track or locate the vehicle, making recovery a possibility. However, the feature that makes it most appealing also makes it unappealing to detractors. The service has been criticized for being too invasive. Critics note that the technology used to monitor an accident can also record whether the occupants wore seatbelts and how fast the driver was going. Many speculate this could be used to find the driver at fault and might affect issues like insurance premiums, denial of warranty repairs, and lawsuits against auto manufacturers for wrongdoing. There will always be some that find this service too invasive, and others that find it helpful. Ultimately, it boils down to your comfort level with information gathering devices.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Nate Evans

2011-12-27 13:21:16

Q: I heard that there is some new technology that may soon be used to limit cell phone usage in vehicles. Do you have any information on that? I am wondering if it would limit all cell usage, which would be a problem, for example, for those in car pools and doing business on the road. It does not seem ideal to me, from what limited information I have heard.

A: To increase safety on the road, wireless researchers are looking for technologies that can passively influence the behavior of drivers who put themselves and others at risk through distracting cell phone use. Their research demonstrated a technique that detects drivers using phones and not hands free devices, distinguishing them from passengers, and shutting down the offending device with an accuracy of 95%. The system uses an algorithm-based system that measures the acoustic signals emitted from the stereo and the phone and blue tooth receiver. If the signal is coming from the driver’s seat, the system disables the phone. Since any passenger phones would ping outside of the driver’s area, they would be unaffected. The technology is aimed at making the roads safer. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration identified cell phone distraction as a major cause of injury and death in 2009 resulting in 995 deaths and 24,000 injuries. There are still some kinks to be worked out though, such as the lack of bluetooth in all vehicles, having software installed in all cell phones and the biggest hurdle of all, tech savvy individuals that would find ways to disable it faster than it could be employed. While it may or may not ever be employed, it is a good reminder to keep the eyes on the road and not that cell phone.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Eddie Walsh

2011-07-01 08:19:00

Question: I have heard that new technologies have been implemented to increase SUV safety, please explain…

Answer: Yes, the widespread availability of electronic stability control (ESC), which helps prevent rollovers, has increased the safety of SUVs considerably. In fact, new findings just released June 10, 2011 by the Insurance Institute for Highways Safety (IIHS) state that SUV drivers are the least likely to die in a car crash over passenger vehicles. This is a stunning turn around from previous findings over the last decade. With the propensity to roll over reduced, SUVs are on balance safer than cars because their bigger size and weight provide greater protection in a crash, according to the IIHS. The IIHS study examined accident data from between 2006 and 2009 for 2005 to 2008 model year vehicles, and tallied driver fatalities. The implementation of electronic stability control greatly reduced rollovers of the newer vehicles. Records show, from the 1999 to 2002 model years, SUVs recorded an average of 82 driver deaths per million registered vehicle years. For model-years 2005 to 2008, that rate had dramatically plummeted to just 28 per million. Largely due to findings such as this, starting with the 2012 model year, all passenger vehicles sold in the U.S. are required to have stability control. With improved stability control and combined with the size and weight, newer SUVs are actually one of the safest vehicles for your family.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Eddie Walsh

2011-04-01 10:42:00

Question: Can you tell us a little about electric cars?

Answer: Although many people tend to think of electric vehicles, also known as EVs, as a recent innovation, they actually have been around quite a while. In fact, the first electric vehicles were invented in the early 1800s. However, it was not until very recently that technology has advanced to the point of making the electric car a real possibility for every day use on a large scale. Since the battery in an electric car runs everything, it needs to be strong and long lasting, something that has been very difficult to achieve until recently. This limitation has made it difficult for electric powered vehicles to compete against gas powered cars that have had a significantly wider range that can be can reached on a tank of gas versus a single charge for an electric vehicle. As the technology used to create batteries improves, more and more major car makers are manufacturing electric car options that are beginning to rival their gas powered counterparts for most drivers. Electric vehicles get about 100 miles to a single charge, which for most every day drivers is quite sufficient. It takes about 6 to 8 hours of charging. While the charging and range may be a drawback, it certainly has the edge on cost efficiency to run. While gas cost 12 cents per mile and is increasing, it cost about 2 cents a mile to run an electric car. Electric cars also have few costs associated for maintenance. One of the recent advancements making the EV a real option is regenerative braking technology which uses kinetic energy from braking to recharge the battery while in use. This technology is extending the charge life by as much as 50%. One of the concerns for most consumers is the lack of recharging stations available at present, making long trips a little problematic. In response to the demand and the many EVs soon to be available, manufacturers are starting to put recharging stations infrastructures in place. One major manufacturer has recently cut a deal with a hotel chain to let patrons and drivers of their EV charge their cars overnight. Are there disadvantages to EVs? Certainly. As with most things, gas powered vehicles have their drawbacks as well. In most cases, the drawbacks are easily overcome and only require slight accommodations, which could be good for car buyers in the near future. In closing, all I can say is be prepared and welcome this new technology. At $4.00 plus per gallon of gas, we will all have some type of electronic car or hybrid in the near future…

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Nate Evans

2011-03-01 11:31:00

Question: I own a small company and we are in a place of growth. We need company vehicles, but buying new is not in the company budget yet. I am on the fence about spending the money, especially because we have grown the company by only spending within our means, but I can see the advantages. Any suggestions?

Answer: Actually, your question is now a common one for companies of every size. For every business, the questions become “How much will it cost, and what will it add?” While new vehicles may be a little out of reach, Certified-Pre-Owned (CPO) Fleet vehicles are an excellent option even on an unlimited budget. CPO fleet vehicles are vehicles that have passed an extensive evaluation and come with extended manufacturers’ warranties. These vehicles can give your company the streamlined, branded look of a large company without the same investment. Of course we all love the allure of a new car, but we also pay dearly for it. It is said that new vehicles lose an average of 20% of their value the instant they are driven away from the dealership. When combined with the average yearly depreciation of 7% to 12%, your first year’s loss is anywhere from 25% to 35%. This is equal to a first year $6,000 to $8,000 loss on a $22,500 new vehicle, or a $10,000 to $15,000 loss on a $40,000 one for a vehicle only driven the average 13,500 miles. If you drive more than that, your depreciation will be greater, up to 35% to 50% for the first year. Once you factor in financing, you will add another $1000 to $3000. From the investment point of view, this is a substantial loss. Large corporations and government entities buy fleet vehicles to support company operations. Some of these companies purchase new vehicles regularly and liquidate the old ones, selling them to dealers. This presents the opportunity for smaller companies to purchase these vehicles and have the advantages of the big company look without the loss in depreciation.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Nate Evans

2011-02-01 14:24:00

Question: Vehicles using FlexFuel technologies have been on the market for quite awhile now (particularly the GM Models), yet I have not really heard much about the bottom line stats. Can you give me some data on cost comparison and MPGs?

Answer: FlexFuel vehicles (FFVs) are designed to run on gasoline, or a gasoline and ethanol blend (E85), which is stored in one tank, as opposed to two separate tanks as in bi-fuel vehicles. The fuel systems are nearly identical to gasoline only models, with only slight modifications. E85 Ethanol is a high-octane, domestically produced renewable fuel. It is primarily made from corn although additional sources are being explored. The advantage to using E85 is that it reduces the dependence on petroleum and reduces greenhouse gases. FFVs experience no loss in performance when operating on E85 because E85 ethanol has a higher octane rating than gasoline, which allows for more horsepower and torque. However, since ethanol contains less energy per volume than gasoline, FFVs typically get about 25-30% fewer miles per gallon when fueled with E85. As far as the cost of the fuel in comparison to gasoline, that is a little more difficult. Like any fuel, it can vary according to area and is subject to the rise and fall of the market. However, the price is much less subject to the dramatic rise in price as you regularly see in petroleum. There are several stations in the area offering E85 and the prices are very comparable.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Nate Evans

2010-12-01 14:26:00

Question: For my next car, I am considering an All Wheel Drive (AWD) vehicle. I am curious about the following questions, including the fuel economy of AWD. Does an AWD vehicle actually perform better than a FWD on snow and ice? Is it any safer? Is it justified, given that approximately 9 months out of the year, it is unnecessary? Are there other options?

Answer: There are many reasons to consider buying an AWD vehicle, and a few of these points may help you in your decision. First, there are many affordable, fuel economy AWD vehicles on the market today. Many are very comparable in price to other vehicles with similar options. Even if you are looking at a more expensive model, it may make better sense to buy AWD, particularly if it is your only or primary vehicle. Additionally, AWD vehicles are not just for snow & ice. They are also useful when roads are less than ideal, such as in rain, puddles, leaves, sand, and gravel. AWD vehicles give you an edge in traction and therefore, an edge in safety. So does that mean an AWD vehicle is the only answer? Not necessarily. Your tires have a lot to do with the performance of your vehicle during winter conditions. If you are happy with your current vehicle, try swapping out your tires for a quality set of snow tires. You will notice a huge difference. However, overall AWD vehicles will be much easier to drive in winter conditions. I hope this helps in answering your question.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Nate Evans

2010-11-01 13:31:00

Question: We used to hear so much debate about the safety of SUV’s and the fervor has seemed to have died down. Are today’s SUVs deemed safer?

Answer: There were many factors playing a role in the early assessments of SUVs and a generally negative image emerged. Two of the issues, rollovers and the danger to other vehicles were widely publicized. Safety should be a first concern, no matter what type of vehicle we are considering, and today’s SUVs have addressed those issues with sophisticated technologies. It is impossible to run through every make and model, but I would like to give you a couple of examples. Many companies have incorporated systems that have greatly reduced the potential for rollover. For example, the 2010 Chevrolet Equinox and GMC Terrain received the highest possible rollover protection rating of “Good” in the first Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS) rollover tests of midsize SUVs and crossovers, one of four tests leading to both vehicles receiving the institute’s Top Safety Pick award. Ford has added an array of safety features like forward collision warning with brake mitigation, advanced cruise control, and inflatable rear seatbelts to the 2011 Explorer. These rear inflatable seat belts fill-up with cold compressed air in 40 milliseconds, enough time to inflate within two feet of a collision or rollover. Additionally, car companies have redesigned the bumper system on their SUVs to prevent other cars from sliding under them in the event of a front collision. This is just a small example of how manufacturers have taken steps to improve the safety of SUVs they are building. Overall, SUVs have come a long way from where they were and, with the help of technology, compare favorably with many models of cars.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Nate Evans

2010-10-01 11:45:00

Question: I have heard all kinds of things in regards to the best time to buy a car, truck or van. What is the real truth?

Answer: Although there are lots of theories as to when to buy a car, truck or van, only a few have any real impact for the buyer. First, Let’s dispel a few of the myths. Weekends are Better: Many believe that buying on a weekend is a best bet because dealerships go into “high gear” trying to meet quotas. While there may be some truth to that, weekends are also the time when most dealerships see the highest number of buyers, which reduces any urgency. Rainy Days: Another big myth is that rainy days are prime for car buying. The assumption is that the dealerships are hungry for a sale when weather is keeping buyers at home. Again, while this may have some truth, you also look like a desperate buyer if you are braving the torrent and the seller may not be willing to negotiate as much as you like. Holidays: Since the holidays are generally slow in sales, many people assume that dealers are more anxious to sell off inventory. However, most dealerships cut inventory, to prepare for the holiday season. Just Before Closing: The idea is that if you go in just before closing, dealerships will want to seal the deal and go home. This theory may have you out late shopping with very little, if any, pay off. Be ready for a late night, because there is always someone willing to negotiate into the late night hours. So, is any time better than another to buy a car? Yes. But it isn’t always as simple as going in on a weekend. Predictive TMV: Know the vehicle’s current true market value before you buy. There are websites that feature car-buying experts who have come up with a strategic way to determine the best time to buy a car. It’s called “Predictive” True Market Value (TMV) pricing and it forecasts the likelihood of a price change — whether prices are going up or down — of the current models available. Since many variables, such as incentives and prior transaction prices, can lead to a lower TMV price. End of the Month: Also, be sure to check out Deals of the Month. Some dealerships offer deals on cars they want to clear off the lot. Additionally, auto dealerships chart their sales on a monthly basis, and the end of the month may offer a better deal if a salesperson is trying to meet a monthly quota. September: New model years begin appearing in the fall making September an ideal month to get a deal on last year’s model. All in all, find a salesperson that is open and honest with you, there really is no big secret as to when to buy a car. If it fits your budget and its the vehicle you’re looking for, it should be in your best interest to buy it and the dealerships best interest to sell it to you. More next month...

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Nate Evans

2010-09-01 10:29:00

Question: I'm currently in the market of buying a new or used vehicle, what is the best way to get rid of my old car?

Answer: Sometimes the toughest part of purchasing a new or used vehicle is figuring out what to do with the one you currently have. Trading in is about convenience — there are no advertisements to place for someone to purchase your car, no test drives to arrange with potential buyers and no legalities to fight if your recently-sold car unexpectedly breaks down. In fact, because even dealers of pre-owned cars generally want your trade-in, it should be in their best interest to make procedure as easy as possible. Trading in a car is usually a same-day transaction with minimal fuss and bother. The dealer assesses the condition of your car, its age and other factors, and determines its trade-in value. You can bargain over the trade-in value if you like, or simply accept the dealer's value. In the end, the amount the dealer gives you for your trade-in is deducted from the amount you pay for your new vehicle. Trade-in value is generally lower than the amount you could sell the car for yourself in a private-party sale, but the market has changed significantly in recent years and you may be surprised in the final offer made by the dealer. By trading in you avoid significant concern. You save time, effort and potential post-sale headaches. By selling the car yourself you are basically making yourself available to the buyer. When you trade your car in to a dealer, you essentially absolve yourself of liability. For those people without the time or inclination to sell a car on their own, trading in makes sense. Once a car is in the dealer's hands, it's the dealer's responsibility to prepare it and handle the resale. Selling the Car Yourself: Selling the car on your own may be your only option if you are buying your next vehicle through a private-party sale, and is generally good assurance that you'll obtain top dollar. Be aware of the work involved. Prepping your vehicle for sale will take time, and depending on its condition may also cost you some money. Honestly assess the car's condition, and then decide how much you want to spend on minor repairs, always remembering the liability involved with a private-party sale. Be sure to fix things well enough to avoid running into possible legal troubles farther down the road. Once the vehicle has been cleaned and repaired, you'll need to determine what it's worth. The next step is to advertise and field phone calls. If the car doesn't sell right away, make sure you can afford to run ads for an extended period of time if necessary. Remember to set aside time to answer phone calls and meet interested parties for test drives. Prepare yourself for possible scheduling hassles like multiple buyers wanting to see the car at the same time, and for negotiating in general. How low a price will you really accept? How will you handle competing offers and other dilemmas? When you finally find a buyer and have the money in hand, the last step is to transfer the title and registration, and cancel your insurance on the vehicle.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Fred Gorges

2007-04-01 08:09:00

Is there a better time of the year to purchase a new car? I was told to wait until the fall, is this just a myth?

The time of year can make a difference when shopping for your next vehicle; however, many times it is out of the dealer's hands. Usually manufacturers will target the introduction of a new model year in the fall which will, many times, prompt them to offer incentives on vehicles from the previous model year. However if they fall behind in production or their sales projections are off, they will release new vehicles accordingly. If there is a delay in the release of new products, the manufacturers will also make adjustments with incentives or special offers. In short, dealers and manufacturers are typically motivated to finish the year end strong; however, any dealer doing a good job will have that attitude on a daily basis. I think a "good deal" is a deal that is good for both the dealer and the customer. When we sell vehicles, we are building relationships, so you never know when you might get the deal you are looking for!

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Fred Gorges

2007-01-01 10:14:00

Why are SUVs deemed unsafe?

ANSWER: Some people have the wrong idea of SUVs because of their history. When SUVs were first introduced into the market, many of them had issues with rolling over. With the advances in technology, manufacturers have been able to make SUVs much more safe than they used to be. Volvo introduced a rollover protection system in their SUV, which uses a gyroscopic sensor to monitor the angle of the vehicle, and in the event of a potential rollover, the system will brake the appropriate wheels to prevent the vehicle from continuing to roll. A more important concern with SUVs is the danger they pose to other vehicles that are smaller. Many car companies have started building safety systems in their SUVs, behind the front bumpers, to prevent other cars from sliding under them in the event of a front collision. This is just another example of how manufacturers have taken steps to improve the safety of SUVs they are building. Overall, SUVs have come a long way from where they were and, with the help of technology, are now much more safe to drive.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Fred Gorges

2006-12-01 15:48:00

Many people ask about the 100,000 mile warranties offered by many of the new car manufacturers. Are they really as good as they seem, or is there a catch?

ANSWER: The “100,000 mile warranties” are great for advertising, and do offer extended coverage for parts of the vehicle, however there is some fine print. Most of these warranties have two parts. The comprehensive 3 year/36,000 mile part of the warranty, which is what we are all so familiar with, and then the power train part of the warranty up to 100,000 miles. The power train (100,000 mile) warranty covers only internally lubricated parts of the engine and transmission, which means it will not cover anything electrical, cosmetic, driver operated, etc. The other piece of crucial information is that these warranties do not transfer to a new owner. The 3 year/36,000 mile part of the warranty will transfer to a new owner, but if you buy the car new, and then sell it to a friend, the 100,000 mile power train warranty drops off. Bottom line………the 100,000 mile warranty has value, but make sure you always read the fine print, because there are some ins and outs to be aware of when purchasing a vehicle with such a warranty.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Fred Gorges

2006-10-01 15:05:00

: What features should one look for when purchasing a new car, and do these features really work? ANSWER: Many safety features are standard equipment to most vehicles now, however there are some manufactures that still offer specific safety features as optional equipment. Volvo’s Dynamic Stability Traction Control (DSTC) system is standard equipment within the Volvo line. DSTC is a system which monitors tra

ANSWER: Are new cars safer than pre-owned cars? Not necessarily. Mechanically pre-owned cars are just as safe as new cars, as long as they have been given thorough inspections. When I purchase, or trade for pre-owned vehicles, they go through a very thorough multi-point inspection. If anything is found in the inspection, the appropriate repairs are made before the vehicle is placed on the lot for sale. New cars are, however, safer than they used to be with the advances technology has made over the past years. Technology has given manufacturers the ability to incorporate new systems, such as inflatable curtains, airbags, dynamic stability control, etc. which make the cars safer than their predecessors. QUESTION: What features should one look for when purchasing a new car, and do these features really work? ANSWER: Many safety features are standard equipment to most vehicles now, however there are some manufactures that still offer specific safety features as optional equipment. Volvo’s Dynamic Stability Traction Control (DSTC) system is standard equipment within the Volvo line. DSTC is a system which monitors traction to the wheels, much like a standard traction control system, but takes it a step further by also monitoring steering. Most manufacturers have versions of DSTC and the majority of them offer the system as an option. Do systems like these work? Absolutely. The technology and engineering behind new vehicles today is really amazing. There are a wide variety of safety features and equipment in vehicles today. My advice to anyone thinking about purchasing a new car, would be to look for value and quality…………of course if you look at a car and love the way it drives and you just fall in love with it, a little impulse never hurts!

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Fred Gorges

2006-09-01 15:33:00

QUESTION:What options do I have when it comes to financing or purchasing a new car?

***image1:left***

ANSWER: There are more options now than there have ever been when it comes to buying a new car.  Lenders offer a wide variety of different automotive lending products.  Whether you have perfect credit or are credit challenged, there are options out there for everyone.
QUESTION:How can I protect my investment?
ANSWER:Everything from extended warranties to interior and exterior protection packages, such as Dent Zone and Touch of Class can help protect the investment of purchasing a new car.  There are many great products out there to help you protect your investment in a new or used vehicle. 
QUESTION:Are extended warranties worth spending the extra money, or should I just stick with the general warranty that comes with buying a new car?
ANSWER:When it comes to purchasing a new car, extended warranties are ideal for those who plan to keep the vehicle for a long term.  Extended warranties are a relatively inexpensive way to protect your car and your pocket book.  After all, cars are machines, and machines will eventually break from time to time.
QUESTION:Do rebates and incentives really make buying a new car a better deal, or is it just the car dealer’s way to get you to buy a new car from them?
ANSWER:Consumers can get great deals through rebates and incentives.  It is real money.  The downside to rebates and incentives is what they do to the trade values.  The trade-in value of a vehicle is greatly decreased on a one to two year old car, if that manufacturer is offering huge rebate or incentive, like zero percent financing, on a new car of the same make and model. 
Rebates and incentives are not just a way for dealers to make deals on cars; they are a way for manufacturers to liquidate inventory.

 

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Fred Gorges

2006-08-01 11:46:00

QUESTION: How long do manufacturers keep a body style before they revise it?  It seems like every couple of years they come out with something new.  What does that do for trade-in value if I have the previous body style?

***image1:left***

ANSWER: The period of time a manufacturer keeps a body style, all depends on the manufacturer and how well that style is selling.  Usually Volvo will keep the same body style for at least four years, and just slightly revise it from year to year, to keep the consumer’s interest level high (i.e. exterior moldings, headlights, interior amenities, etc.).  Generally, when they do make the decision to completely change the platform of a vehicle, they will introduce the new platform for one specific model, and base the rest of the model lineup on that new platform over a period of time. 
The trade-in value of a vehicle is never improved when a manufacturer revises or discontinues a specific model.  The car market fluctuates quite a bit, and there is always a dip in value of a vehicle when its successor is introduced into the market place.
   QUESTION:  How do you know what the value of a vehicle is going to be from the time you purchase it until the time you plan to sell or trade it in?  Which is better as a consumer, sell it yourself or trade it to the dealer?
ANSWER:There is no way to determine what the value of a car will be from the time you purchase the vehicle to the time you sell or trade it.  Generally, if you purchase a new vehicle, it will retain between 45 and 65 percent of its value within the first three years depending highly on make and model.  The depreciation tends to slow down after the first three years.
QUESTION:  I enjoy driving a new (or gently pre-owned) vehicle, I recently traded mine in and they used the term “upside down” and then they said they would have to “roll over” some negative equity.  What does it mean to be “upside down” in a vehicle?  What can you do as a consumer to avoid this?
ANSWER:  The term “upside down,” simply means you owe more on the vehicle than it is worth.  There are several ways to avoid being “upside down” in your vehicle.  First, put as much money down as possible.  This is a good way to create instant equity in a vehicle.  Second, finance the vehicle for the shortest term possible.  This will minimize the amount of interest you pay on the vehicle, and increase the amount of principal you pay per month.  My favorite way to avoid negative equity is to LEASE!  When you lease a vehicle to term, you won’t have any negative equity.  The manufacturer is responsible for the value of the vehicle after you turn it back in to them.  Furthermore, most manufacturers will offer incentives to stay with their product, so in addition to avoiding negative equity, they will pay you to lease another vehicle! 

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Fred Gorges

2006-07-01 09:12:00

Question: It seems like things you were supposed to when you bought a new car years ago are different than what you should do today. Is that true? What are some suggestions and tips for purchasing a new car today?

ANSWER: Surprisingly or not, they’re not that much different. Test drive all kinds of different vehicles.  I think the best way to truly get a feel for what you will be happy and comfortable with, is to experience the vehicle first hand.  I always encourage customers to drive a vehicle out to dinner or even overnight.  This gives the customer the opportunity to really find out if it is the right vehicle for them.Establish a relationship with your sales representative.  Customers will always have a more pleasant buying experience if they are open and forward with their sales person about what they are trying to accomplish.   Most sales representatives are trained to treat our customers as guests.  I always use the analogy of staying in a nice hotel or eating at a fancy restaurant.  The level of service is what makes all the difference.  Our goal is to help fulfill the needs of our customers, and develop life long relationships.Question: Is it in my better interest to lease a new car or buy a new car, what are the benefits of leasing over purchasing a car?ANSWER: In my opinion, leasing is always the best way to go.  When you lease a vehicle, you are only paying for the depreciation of that vehicle.  When you purchase a vehicle, you are paying for 100 percent of the vehicle and are responsible for the depreciation when you decide to sell or trade it.  Leasing leaves all options open for the customer.  The customer knows what percentage of the vehicle they are paying for, how much they will be able to purchase the car for at the end of the lease, and can either re-lease the same vehicle at the end of the lease, or turn it back in and lease something different.  When you purchase a vehicle, you are exposed to a great deal of financial liability.  After purchasing a vehicle it ties up a lump sum of money that a lease does not.  With a lease you can keep your money working for you in other investment opportunities.  Purchasing also exposes you to the ever-fluctuating automotive market.  A lease discloses a residual value (value at lease end) before you even sign an agreement.  The list goes on and on…like my Dad taught me, you lease things that depreciate and purchase things that appreciate.  Cars will always depreciate, so leasing is my recommendation.  Question: It used to be that you could buy a new car or truck for around $15,000…now they’re in the upper 20s and 30s.  Where will it stop?  Won’t people eventually get into a situation where they will owe as much on financing and re-financing their vehicles as they do on their home?ANSWER: Actually consumers can still buy new cars and trucks within the $15,000 to $20,000 price range, but they will be limited on the amenities they can get within that price range.  I think people buy cars and trucks for different reasons than they used to.  Cars and trucks have increased in price over the years, but so has the demand for luxury.  People used to buy trucks to haul and tow things, and they needed an all-terrain or economy vehicle.  Those cars and trucks were base models with few amenities.  Today, there are more trucks and SUV’s in town than on the farm.  Parents are hauling kids around instead of farmers hauling bales of hay.  Families want more luxury when looking for a new car or truck, and those luxurious amenities drive the price up as much as changes in the economy or product.  In short, I believe the rising cost of vehicles is due to a combination of things.  You can still buy vehicles for very competitive prices although they might not have TVs, DVD players or satellite radios that so many of us have become accustomed to seeing in new cars and trucks.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Wes Grimes

2005-02-01 09:22:00

: How does one properly and safely change a car tire?

ANSWER: Changing a tire doesn't have to be all bad. With knowledge comes power: The first step is to find your car's spare tire, jack and tire iron. The spare tire is almost always located underneath the floor mat in the trunk. If you own an SUV, minivan or pickup, the spare tire is often mounted on the back of the tailgate or underneath the vehicle itself. Once you have found the spare tire, remove it from the car. Occasionally checking the pressure in the spare tire will ensure that it will be ready to use when you need it. The next step will involve removing the flat tire. Make sure that the car is in gear (or in "park" if the car is an automatic) and the emergency brake is set. The car should be parked on a flat piece of pavement. Do not attempt to change a flat if the car is on a slope or if it is sitting on dirt. It's also a good idea to block the tire opposite of the flat tire. Therefore, if the left front tire is flat, it would be a good idea to place a brick or other large, heavy object behind the right rear tire. Blocking the tire makes the car less likely to move when you are raising it. Use the tire iron (the L-shaped bar that fits over the wheel lugs) to loosen each wheel lug. The wheel lugs are almost certainly very tight. You'll have to use some force. You loosen them by turning them counterclockwise. Remember "Righty tighty, Lefty loosy."  You don't want to remove the lug nuts yet. You just want them loose. Once you have accomplished this, move the jack underneath the car. If you don't know where the proper jacking points are, look them up in the owner's manual. Maneuver the jack underneath the jack point and start to raise the jack. Most car jacks these days are a screw-type scissor jack, which means you simply turn the knob at the end of the jack using the provided metal hand crank. Raise the jack until it contacts the car's frame and continue expanding the jack to raise the car until the flat tire is completely raised off the ground. Once this is done, remove the lug nuts completely. Depending on how tight the lugs are you might be able to remove them by hand. Set the lug nuts aside in a secure location where they can't roll away.Position the spare tire over the wheel studs. This is the most physically challenging part of the whole process. You'll have to hold up the tire and try to line up the holes in the wheel with the protruding wheel studs located on the brake hub. One trick that might help is to balance the tire on your foot while you move it into position. After you have the spare tire hanging on the wheel studs, screw each of the lug nuts back on. You'll want to start them by hand. Make sure you do not cross-thread them. The lugs should screw on easily. Once each of them is snug and you can't tighten them any further by hand, use the tire iron to finish the job. You just want them secured for now. Make sure that the wheel is fitting flush against the brake hub. Once the spare tire is on, carefully lower the jack. Pull the jack away from the vehicle. The final step is to tighten down the lug nuts completely. The reason you tighten the lugs now is that the tire is on the ground and it won't rotate around like it would if it was still hanging in the air.  Put the flat tire in the space where the spare tire was and put the jack and tire iron back in the car. Most compact spare tires are smaller than regular tires (they look dinky and people commonly refer to them as "rubber doughnuts"), so it is possible that the flat tire won't fit in the spare tire well. Also, compact spares have a limited top speed. The tire's top speed will be written on its sidewall. If your vehicle has a full-size spare, you won't encounter these problems. With the spare installed, you should be able to reach the nearest service station or repair shop to have your flat tire fixed or replaced.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Brad Train

2005-01-01 08:51:00

: Should I buy my car at the end of my lease?

ANSWER: Many people ask me if they should buy their car at the end of their lease. Usually the end of lease purchase price, also known as the "residual value", is an early estimate for the actual market value of the car, based upon time of return. The answer to your question however, is sometimes it can be a good deal for the customer and other times, depending upon market conditions and the supply and demand of various things, it may not be. Currently there are a record number of 36-60 month leases that started in 2000 that are ending. Shoppers realize the buyout price is sometimes much more than the market value, and are giving their cars back to leasing companies instead of buying them. Combine this with the low APR financing on new cars, and heavy factory incentives, not too many are buying their leased car when they can buy new. This has made for a backlog (over supply) of used cars, thus values have depreciated much more than expected in 2001-2003. So, again, at times the answer might be yes, but in the present situation, it may be in the best interest of the customer to let the leased car go back and buy new, or look for other used car buys. Remember, every situation is different and if you need help with your decision, talk with the dealer that you're working with.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Wes Grimes

2005-01-01 08:51:00

: What effect are baby boomers having on the overall economy and in particular the automotive industry?

ANSWER: The baby boomer generation grew up loving their muscle cars. In fact, many of them never stopped lusting after power under the hood and then attempted to raise their children with the same passion for performance. Well, the muscle car is back in a brand new suit. The reintroduction of the muscle car brings with it a new wave of accessorization, personalization and modification. Muscle cars and the aftermarket are a natural fit. Muscle car owners give their love and attention to the vehicles they own and the aftermarket industry benefits. Their affordability makes them accessible to more enthusiasts and allows budget left over for aftermarket parts and accessories. The new 2005 Ford Mustang is one example of the synergy between muscle cars and the aftermarket, recently winning awards for most accessory-friendly vehicle. Other contemporary muscle car examples include the Chrysler 300C, Dodge Magnum and Corvette C6. The 2005 Mustang has hundreds of compatible exhibiting aftermarket parts and accessories just waiting to be bought by Mustang enthusiasts. Research shows that 30 percent of all Mustang owners will modify their cars with wheels, accessories or performance items.The off-road, mobile electronic, and performance tires and wheels products are also responsible for the growing aftermarket industry. Baby boomers want to be defined by their attitude, activities and life accomplishments. Instead of age defining them, baby boomers are redefining age. This is the first generation in American history that's fighting the battle of growing old. Boomers have always seen themselves as younger than their chronological age and always younger and hipper than their more conventional parents. As parents, boomers helped to create the minivan and SUV markets. Now they are starting to empty nest. Their kids are off at college and they are beginning to make decisions based on their needs. Everybody knows baby boomers don't want station wagons, because the wagon reminds them of their totally unhip parents. But, studies have found that younger consumers are neutral on wagons, partially because they have never seen any.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Tim Woeppel

2004-12-01 10:32:00

: In financing an auto, should I finance at my own bank or should I accept the dealership's financing?

ANSWER: It's always a good idea to know what interest rate your local bank is charging. However, most dealerships can beat the interest rate you may get at your own bank. There are two reasons for this. First, the volume of business that an auto dealership does with any given bank will almost allow the dealership to get better rates than any customer walking into the bank. The banks do not want to lose $200,000 or $300,000, or even $500,000 in loan business per month. The second reason for this is more subjective. Most Finance & Insurance professionals have developed relationships with the banks they do business with. This relationship allows the loan officers at the banks to be more flexible in their terms. Since many car buyers are "upside-down" on their trade-ins, they will have to carry the excess loan balance to their new loan. As a customer walking into the bank, the loan officer will tell you "I can only finance the retail value of the vehicle" (or wholesale value, trade-in value, etc.). The relationship the F&I professionals have with the bank will allow the loan to proceed while financing as much as 25% over the value of the new vehicle purchase. Bottom line-do your homework, and give the dealership an opportunity, you may be pleasantly surprised.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Wes Grimes

2004-12-01 09:19:00

:   What effect are baby boomers having on the overall economy and in particular the automotive industry?

ANSWER:  It doesn't take long on the Internet to find lots of information on baby boomers, and what their spending habits are doing to the American economy.   Stated very simply, the sociologists and the media define baby boomers as those born between (and including) 1946 and 1964. (There is no law or constitutional amendment so stating; and other boundaries have been suggested. But this is the time frame most commonly used.) That would make boomers between 40 and 58 years old in 2004. There are about 76 million boomers in the U.S.; currently representing about 29% of the U.S. population.  In answer to your question, "What effect are the baby boomers having on the economy"?… the fact is the boomers ARE the economy, representing the vast majority of the work force. The huge growth in the economy in the 90s was due in no small part to the 76 million boomers working up to their peak earning and spending years. What are they spending money on? Just about anything that is being sold. What kind of cars are they buying? What kind are Detroit and Japan selling? Boomers are the upper end of the automobile market, which explains the explosion in the popularity of SUVs. Because the first of the boomers will hit retirement age in five years, auto makers are working on big technology changes to make driving easier, safer, and more appealing to the aging boomers.The big push to keep this wealthy and powerful demographic group comfy behind the wheel could dramatically improve safety and forever alter the way that people interact with their cars. For example, steering controls could gently nudge a driver around a sharp curve. Climate systems will ask in a pleasant voice whether you want to turn on the air conditioner. All of this will be powered by a new array of digital systems, computer chips, and software designed to make driving easier, safer, and more foolproof. The carmakers are on the verge of making huge changes in the accessories offered to consumers when they purchase an auto. No longer will we simply settle for basic vehicles with a standard radio. We'll pick our vehicle type and style, and then choose our accessories from a showroom of DVD players, video screens, GPS navigation systems, and dizzying arrays of climate-control options, particularly in luxury models, to make cars more enticing and more complex. In fact, those over 50 buy half of all luxury cars and 41 percent of all new cars. Designing cars and trucks for aging consumers is critical because 45 percent of vehicle buyers age 50 and over have median household incomes exceeding $75,000 a year -- more than any other age group. This group is growing rapidly, too, and will consist of about 116 million buyers by 2020 -- the fastest growing demographic segment -- according to the U.S. Census. In the past, the industry tended to focus on youth because it's sexy, but new studies prove that the discretionary income is with the mature folks… the boomers.  Next month we will talk more about baby boomers' likes and dislikes in the auto aftermarket

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Brad Train

2004-10-01 15:07:00

: Do I really need winter tires? What if I just drive slowly and carefully?

ANSWER: Why not take some of the tension out of your winter driving by providing yourself with a greater margin of control and possibly avoiding an accident either caused by yourself or someone else. If you're driving too slowly, and you aren't able to keep up with the flow of traffic, you pose a risk to yourself as well as other vehicles around you.Most drivers' primary concern with winter driving is getting "stuck" in the snow (or in the ditch). Who wants to gamble...especially when their collision deductible and future insurance premiums are on the table? Only winter tires are designed to excel in colder temperature; slush, and snow and ice that Kansas, as well as many other parts of the country experience for three or more months a year. It's also important to note that the recent advancements in electronic driver aids, such as ABS and traction control don't provide more traction. They only help prevent drivers from over braking or overpowering the available traction of their tires. The only thing the driver can do to increase traction...to actually get more grip and control... is install winter tires.Front-wheel drive vehicles offer an advantage to winter driving, but its advantage can be multiplied by using winter tires designed for winter road conditions. Part of a front-wheel-drive car's acceleration advantage is because it has 60 percent of its weight over the drive wheels. While this helps you get started, it does not help you stop. The same applies for vehicles with all-wheel drive. And, while traction control will help keep you from overpowering your tires, it doesn't actually improve your tire's traction; it simply limits your car's acceleration to the traction level of your tires. The only way to maximize your vehicle's winter performance is to provide your traction control with more grip to work with by using tires specifically designed for your driving conditions.I'm often asked about the effectiveness of all-season tires in winter driving. All-season tires are a compromise intended to provide acceptable traits under a wide variety of conditions. However, that compromised goal prevents them from being a master of any one of them. The all-season tires tread is designed and engineered to provide extended mileages and durability under the summer's sun, but are less effective in winter's freezing temperatures, through snow, and on ice. Winter tires deliver much better snow and ice performance than all-season tires because their tread design is engineered to master those conditions, while summer tires are engineered to deliver better handling in the rain and on dry roads.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Brad Train

2004-09-01 12:34:00

: What is the Auto Lemon Law?

ANSWER:  The "Lemon Law" is a state law in which a manufacturer has breached its written warranty. Unfortunately, lemons do happen; you spend your hard earned dollars on a vehicle, and then find out its just one problem after another. You're in and out of the dealership and the repair shop with a vehicle that's not performing to your expectations. The American Heritage Dictionary defines a lemon as: "One that is or proves to be unsatisfactory…" However, to further define such a broad term, the Lemon Law outlines certain situations which entitle consumers to their money back or a new vehicle. Any defect or nonconformity, or combination of defects, which are not repaired within a reasonable number of attempts or a reasonable amount of time, may entitle you to Lemon Law relief. Your vehicle does not have to be breaking down to be considered a lemon, and almost any motor vehicle is covered by the Lemon Law; cars, trucks, motorcycles, ATVs, vans, RVs, and many other types of motor vehicles.Often, there is a misconception that you must present your "lemon" case within the first year of ownership because the Lemon Law has what are called "presumptions", which go into effect during the first year of ownership. The Lemon law states that, under certain circumstances, if a defect is not cured within a reasonable number of repair attempts, your vehicle is a "lemon." The question remains, "What is a reasonable number of repair attempts?" The law lists four examples of when it may be "presumed" that a reasonable number of attempts were made. The most common is that a defect has been subject to three unsuccessful repair attempts within the first year or eighteen thousand miles, whichever comes first. This is where the misconception comes from. If the dealer refuses to repair your vehicle, the manufacturer has given a warranty, which in most cases, requires the dealer to do repair work. If the dealer and/or the manufacturer then refuse to do the repair work, you may have a claim under the Lemon Law.The most important documentation that you should maintain, are the repair orders that you are given after your vehicle has been in for repair. Each time you take your vehicle in for repair you should make sure that all the information contained on these documents is correct. Make sure that all the complaints are written up exactly as you have stated them; that all of your complaints on that visit are included; that the "dates in"-"dates out" are correct; and that the mileage is correct. Also, keep a calendar of all appointments which shows when you took the vehicle in to the dealer; this can be helpful in lieu of or in addition to the repair orders. The Lemon Law covers a wide range of defects including but not limited to:• Engine• Transmission• Brakes• Steering• Water leaks• Paint Defects• Vibrations• Rattles• Electrical Problems• Pulling problems• Bad Smells• Many other defectsThe ultimate relief in a Lemon Law Case is your money back or a new car. This is known as a "buy back" or a "repurchase." When that occurs, the defective vehicle is returned to the manufacturer. This is usually done by returning it locally to one of their authorized dealers. Remember, the best protection you can have against becoming involved in a Lemon Law Case, is to buy from a reputable dealer who is willing to listen to your concerns from the start and help you in any way they can. If you're still not satisfied with the dealer's communication and service efforts, and if you think you have a lemon car, your state's lemon laws and other consumer protection laws can help you.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Brad Train

2004-09-01 10:57:00

: Any tips for purchasing a "school car" for my teen? Are insurance rates going to be a big problem?

ANSWER: Welcome to the stresses of the teen years. Not only do parents worry about putting a teen behind the wheel of a car (any car) they have to weigh a number of options about teen auto insurance. Driving the family's older car, could save hundreds of dollars a year in insurance premiums, but having the teen drive a newer, more up-to-date car could save the stress of sleepless nights. Gender plays a significant role in the cost of insurance. A family's rate could double when a teenage girl is added to the policy, but could triple with the addition of a teen boy. Since teenagers have little experience behind the wheel, insurers view them as high-risk drivers. Insurers base their auto rates on how likely a driver will get into a crash, and statistics show that young, inexperienced drivers account for a disproportionate share of crashes. When shopping for a vehicle for your teen, avoid the sporty, high-performance vehicles that get teenagers in trouble and insurers frown upon. Some consumer groups also advise against letting teens drive sport-utility vehicles. SUVs, while popular, have a higher center of gravity and are more prone to rollovers than are lower-to-the-ground automobiles. A teen owning an old clunker and getting their own insurance policy for that car can be more cost effective than if they were driving a brand-new car. Older, less expensive cars tend to be viewed as lower risk for insurers because they don't usually cost as much to repair and have been depreciated to a great degree. In addition, policyholders can (and often do) save money on these old cars by not carrying as much collision and comprehensive coverage as they would on a new car. But, while a 1990 full-sized sedan might have a good amount of sheet metal to crumple in a crash, it won't have current safety features such as frontal and side airbags. It won't have the latest in crash avoidance features such as anti-lock brakes (ABS) or electronic stability control. Make sure your teen has completed a driver's education course, and check beforehand with insurers about the kinds of courses that qualify for an insurer's driver education discount. Also find out if a defensive driving course can help reduce premiums. And note that if a teen takes driver-training classes on more modern vehicles, he may need to learn new skills before settling behind the wheel of an older model car. For example, teens often learn to drive in vehicles that are equipped with ABS. The panic-braking procedures in a new car with ABS are different than what a driver should do during a panic stop in a car without ABS. Make sure your teenager has learned the most effective use of the brakes on the car being driven. Spend time traveling with your teenager and model good driving skills. Convince your teen of the need to behave responsibly behind the wheel, and discuss the consequences of irresponsible behavior. You may want to impose a curfew to reduce your teen's exposure to dangerous, late-at-night travel hours. You also might want to limit the kinds and numbers of friends who ride with your child, because a recent study indicated the greater the number of teens riding together, the more likely it is that a crash will occur.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Brad Train

2004-08-01 08:22:00

: Why would anyone PAY to listen to the radio?

ANSWER:  I know. I've heard it many times concerning Satellite Radio, " Pay to listen to radio? That's crazy! Why should I pay for something that's free?" A good question, to which I can supply a good answer: Cable TV. When cable first hit the market, people squawked, "Cable Television? You want me to pay to watch TV? TV is free!" Look how far we've come…do you know anybody that does not have Cable now? Those people are few and far between.Let's talk about Satellite Radio. Imagine traveling in your vehicle coast to coast, and never having to search for a radio station! Once you listen to satellite radio, you may never again want to listen to standard AM/FM radio and its commercial advertisements. Satellite Radio delivers continuous, digital quality music plus a stream of popular talk radio shows, news, and sports events from around the country. A process, called "digital multiplexing" produces a rich, clear sound that gives you the effect of being 'in studio'. And, the radio display shows the artist and title, so you always know who and what is playing on your stereo.Satellite Radio will spoil you! You can listen to a wide range of music from rock to rap and everything in between. If you enjoy talk radio, Satellite Radio delivers up to 40 streams of exclusive, original content talk shows from around the country, as well as news from sources like CNN and BBC, and live sporting events from the NBA and NHL. There are three components that you must have to successfully have Satellite Radio; an antenna to get the signal, a tuner to recognize the signal and send it to your deck, and a deck to send out the sound. Your deck must be compatible with Satellite Radio and sometimes a specific brand. If it's not compatible, you will have to get a display unit, or a deck that is Satellite Radio ready. These can be purchased at most consumer electronics stores or can be an added feature to many new cars.As it stands right now, there are two Satellite Radio providers, XM Satellite Radio and Sirius Satellite Radio. Both companies are traded on the NASDAQ stock exchange (XMSR and SIRI are their ticker symbols respectively). Both companies transmit their own nationwide, digital quality radio channels. XM claims that it is a better value because it is about $10 per month while Sirius charges about $13 a month. Sirius claims that it is the better value because all 60 of its music channels are 100 percent commercial free, 35 of XM's 70 music channels are commercial free. Both companies are very proud of their programming and have made pledges to their customers to keep improving the content to meet their demands. Don't get hung up on the idea of paying for radio, I think you will find Satellite Radio will soon become as indispensable as Cable TV.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Wes Grimes

2004-07-01 10:52:00

:     What exactly are ‘ball joints’.  Is there anything special about one over another or are they all pretty much the same?

ANSWER:  Ball joints are a part of your vehicle's suspension that connects the steering knuckles to the control arms. A ball joint is essentially a flexible ball and socket that allows the suspension to move and at the same time the wheels to steer. Cars and trucks without strut suspensions typically have four of them (one upper and one lower on each side). Cars and minivans with strut suspensions have only two (one lower ball joint on each side). Some front-wheel drive cars also have ball joints on the rear suspension. Ball joint locations in the front end - like any other suspension component, ball joints eventually wear and become loose. Excessive play in the joint can affect wheel alignment and tire wear. Loose joints can also cause suspension noise (typically a "clunking" sound when hitting a bump). WARNING: If a ball joint fails, the suspension can collapse causing loss of control. So don't put off having a bad set of joints replaced. JOINT INSPECTION - Joints should be inspected before they're greased (since grease takes up some of the slack in the joint). Ball joints are pretty easy to check, but each type requires a different inspection procedure. Use the wrong procedure and you'll get misleading results. The procedure that needs to be used depends on the location and loading of the joint: LOWER LOAD CARRYING ball joints are found on front- and rear-wheel drive vehicles where the coil spring or torsion bar is on the lower control arm. You'll also find them on the rear suspension of 1985 & up FWD Buick, Cadillac, Pontiac & Oldsmobile's, too. Joints with built-in wear indicators (most GM and Ford RWD cars, rear joints on the FWD GM cars, and GM RWD vans, S10 & S15 Blazer) must be checked with the full weight of the vehicle on the tires on the shop floor or on a drive-on style ramp -- not with the wheels up or the suspension supported by jack stands. No measurements are required if a joint has a wear indicator because internal play is indicated by the position of the grease fitting boss. The boss protrudes about .050 inches on a new joint. As the joint wears, the boss recedes into the housing. The joint is considered "good" as long as you can see or feel the edge of the boss protruding from the housing. But if the top of the boss is flush or below the housing, it's time to replace the joint. On lower load carrying ball joints without a wear indicator, the joint is checked in the unloaded condition with the wheel raised off the ground and the lower control arm supported by a jack stand. A dial indicator is then used to measure play in one of two directions: sideways (horizontal or radial play) or vertically (axial or up-and-down play). The direction to measure depends on the application (refer to a manual for the exact specs). Sideways play is measured with the indicator positioned against the inside of the wheel rim near the joint. The wheel should be pushed in and out by hand to check sideways play, and lifted with no more than 25 lbs. of force to check vertical play. Many joints allow up to .250 in. of sideways (radial) play, but some allow no play or only .015 in. of play. Always refer to the vehicle manufacturer's specs. Vertical play is measured with the dial indicator positioned against the knuckle stud nut (Ford & GM) or the joint housing (Chrysler). A joint that has more than .050 in. of vertical play doesn't necessarily require replacement because the specs range from zero play to as much as .125 inch of play. The most common mistake that's made here is to use too much pressure on a pry bar or to insert a pry bar between the control arm and knuckle rather than under the wheel. Pry hard enough and any joint may appear to be bad. LOWER FOLLOWER NONLOADED ball joints are found on two kinds of applications: RWD cars where the spring is over the upper control arm, and vehicles with MacPherson strut suspensions. On both applications the lower joint is checked with the wheel raised off the ground hanging free (no stand under the lower control arm). Rock the wheel in and out by hand. A good joint should show no movement. One exception here is 1978-80 Omni & Horizon, which allows up to .050 inch of sideways play. Another exception is Chrysler FWD minivans and FWD cars ('81 & up). On these applications, the lower joint has a wear indicator grease fitting. Joint play is checked with the wheels on the ground rather than raised. If the grease fitting can be twisted with your fingers, the joint needs to be replaced. UPPER LOAD CARRYING ball joints are found on vehicles where the spring or torsion bar is on the upper control arm. Like the lower follower nonloaded ball joints, the upper joints are checked in the unloaded condition with the wheels off the ground -- but with a wedge or block between the frame and upper control arm to support the upper arm. On most applications, any movement calls for replacement. But on some Fords, up to .250 in. of radial play is allowed. UPPER FOLLOWER NONLOADED ball joints are also checked with the wheels off the ground but with the lower control arm supported. Any movement usually calls for replacement. JOINT REPLACEMENT Any joint that exceeds the vehicle manufacturer's maximum allowable wear needs to be replaced. The greater the amount of wear, the greater the urgency to replace it. Ball joints are often replaced in complete sets, or at least in matched pairs on both sides (both lowers or both uppers). This is because the joints on both sides of a vehicle usually have the same amount of wear. If one is bad, the other usually is too. Load carrying ball joints usually wear out before ones that don't carry a load, so it may only be necessary to replace the loaded joints instead of the complete set. Replacing a set of ball joints requires separating the control arms from the steering knuckles, a job which can be difficult depending on the design and age of the vehicle. At the very least, it usually requires a special "ball joint fork" tool to loosen the ball joint stud from the knuckle. If this sounds like more of a a job than you want to tackle, let a professional do it the work.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Brad Train

2004-07-01 09:50:00

: I'm worried about the plastic and rubber cars we drive now. How can they be safe compared to the heavy metal cars of the past?

ANSWER:  Vehicle technology has grown by leaps and bounds in the past decade, especially safety features. Who would have imagined that your vehicle would have an airbag much less, one that knows exactly how hard to deploy for the amount of impact or the weight of the person in the seat it is protecting! Cars now offer Head Curtain air bags, which drop like inflated curtains on both sides of the passenger compartment to protect against head injuries in a side collision and Reduced Force airbags, designed to work with safety belts and child restraints to protect passengers during moderate to severe frontal collisions.The outside of the car is always the most important when involved in an accident. The stronger the frame and skins of the car, the less severe the damage will be to the passengers riding in it. The "heavy metal" cars of the past were tough, but newer technology has provided us with materials that are just as tough and makes the body of the vehicle lighter by thrusting the weight to the frame for more solidity, therefore allowing additional occupant protection. The lighter weight body also increases energy efficiency.  Polymer materials, used in making some of the newer cars, is more dent resistant than steel. These polymers create a durable exterior shell. Polymer body side panels and fenders are dent and corrosion-resistant. Door panels are made from a springier version of polymer that enables them to bend and bounce back to absorb the energy from a variety of small impacts without damage, including a runaway shopping cart. Polymer bumpers wrap around the front and rear of the vehicle for additional protection and resist impact from crashes. And lastly, not only will these polymers help maintain the safety of the driver and passengers, they will keep your car looking newer longer.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Brad Train

2004-06-01 10:55:00

:  With all the safety options one can purchase on a new car, how do I know which ones are really worth the extra money?

ANSWER:  It's hard to put a price on keeping your family safe. As a parent, I feel that any safety option that actually makes you safer is worth the extra money. Lets look at some of the safety options available on new vehicles.• Antilock Brakes (apx. $300-$500) help shorten stopping distances and keep the vehicle under control by allowing the driver to steer while braking. This is a relatively inexpensive feature and a great safety option. All of us who were taught to "pump the brakes" when starting to slide on wet pavement, will have to relearn the rules with antilock brakes. No need to pump!• Park-Assist (apx. $300) sounds an alarm when its radar and sonar systems detect large objects to the rear and sometimes in front and to the sides of your vehicle. If you purchase an SUV or other high-riding vehicle, it can alert you to low barriers or objects. However, do not count on this feature to detect small children behind the vehicle.• Side-Impact Air Bags (apx. $300) inflate from the doors or from the sides of the seats in the front and in some models the back to protect riders from a side impact. A great safety option for adults and older children, but the side-impact air bags could injure younger children.• Side-Curtain Air Bags (apx. $500) inflate from the doors to protect the head in the event of a side impact collision or rollover. Again, if you purchase an SUV or high-riding vehicle that is more prone to rollovers, this is a good safety option for adults or older children. • Stability/Traction Control (apx. $400-$1,000) detects, with sensors, when the vehicle is on the verge of a skid or spinout. Once detected, the sensor passes the data to computers that manipulate the brakes and throttle to regain control. It is practically unnoticeable to the driver. If you're buying a high-riding vehicle such as an SUV or minivan, where the chance of a rollover increases, this feature helps prevent the vehicle from leaving the road. It also adds a safety margin to sedans.• 4-Wheel Drive or All Wheel Drive (apx. $1,500-$2,000) Four-wheel drive systems take power away from any wheel that is slipping on pavement. All-wheel drive, which is common on cross-over vehicles such as luxury SUV's or Sport Wagons, varies the distribution of power to all four wheels based on computer calculations of where the power is most needed. Four-wheel and all-wheel drive will help you maneuver in the snow or mud, but really doesn't count as a safety option.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Brad Train

2004-05-01 11:35:00

Question:    I am in the market for a used vehicle. Can you give me some helpful tips to prevent me from buying a previously damaged vehicle?

ANSWER:  When buying a used vehicle the main focus should not only be on the best possible price but also the most mechanically sound vehicle for your money. Whether it is a new or used vehicle you will eventually have some type of repairs even if it is a well-maintained vehicle these expenses should be minimal. A vehicle is the second largest investment (next to a home) one makes and you expect to get the most from it. When purchasing a used vehicle don't be afraid to get down and dirty to find signs of previous damage repair.Do a walk around, and focus on the little things. Does the paint match exactly from one piece to the next? A car that has been repainted (not just a touch up) will have a slightly different color on one area than another. Example: If the front passenger-side quarter panel has been repainted or replaced, then over time you will see the slight color difference between it and the passenger door.If you have a feeling that something has been replaced or repaired Dig Deeper! For instance the front quarter panel, look underneath at the wheel well. Does it look new or newer than the opposite side? What about the tires, is one worn differently than the other? Is one new? This applies to all areas of the vehicle; both sides should match (for the most part). If something throws a red flag, keep looking! Another way to check for "new paint" is to look under the hood. If a front fender has been repainted you will be able to feel a line along the inner edge where the hood meets the fender. This is caused from the tape that is used to cover areas not needing to be painted. It is usually unavoidable. If you feel it has had new paint, do some more digging! Check for texture changes in the body. It should be smooth and consistent. Bodywork can change the ‘flow’ of the paint and cause the texture to look and feel different  because of the technique used to repair body damage.  If you suspect previous repairs, have your dealer or personal mechanic put it on a lift so you can get a good look at the underbody. Is the frame bent? Has it been repaired because it was bent? This may be a future problem if not repaired correctly. Consumers are protected under state law from buying a vehicle (at a dealership) that has been totaled or has a "Salvaged" or "Off Road" title. The same protections do not apply to individuals selling to individuals- Buyer Beware!The Internet is a wonderful tool when shopping for a used vehicle. Always request a Carfax report on the vehicle or check it yourself @ http://www.carfax.com/. There are different levels of this report: 1) Is free and gives you the bare basics 2) Requires a payment but gives you a little more detail about the history; tampering with the odometer, has it been rolled back (illegal) or has it rolled over (21,000 is actually 121,000)?3) Again, this one has a charge but it will provide a full history on the vehicle including whether or not it has been stolen or involved in a major accident.These are just a few tips of advice for your big purchase. Don't let this information intimidate you as a car buyer, allow it to make you an informed and educated buyer!

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Brad Train

2004-03-01 16:16:00

: I keep hearing about available OnStar systems in cars. What is OnStar?

ANSWER:  OnStar is available in GM made automobiles and works through GPS (Global Positioning System). The service uses existing emergency service providers, cellular telephone and satellite technologies. The Global Positioning System (GPS) is a satellite-based radio navigation system initially developed and operated by the U.S. Department of Defense (DOD). GPS permits land, sea, and airborne users to determine their three-dimensional position, velocity, and time 24-hours-a-day, in all weather, anywhere in the world with a precision and accuracy far better than other radio navigation systems available today or in the foreseeable future. OnStar and GPS operate through the electrical system in the vehicle and are powered by the vehicle's battery. In emergency situations, and at the push of a button, the automobile user is connected to the main OnStar Center where trained, knowledgeable, live advisors are ready to assist. Some OnStar vehicles offer the ability to send and receive calls, just as one would use a wireless phone minus inconvenient dialing. Air Bag Deployment Notification In the event that a user's front air bags deploy, the vehicle sends a signal to the OnStar Center. An advisor attempts to contact the user, inquiring whether or not assistance is needed. If the user does not answer, emergency help will be notified and the location will be provided.Emergency Services In an emergency situation, the user simply presses the red emergency button. The location information is transmitted to the OnStar Center where the call takes priority status on an advisor's screen. Within seconds, the advisor can contact the nearest emergency service provider with a location and request for help. Stolen Vehicle Tracking When a user determines that a vehicle has been stolen, an advisor will help the police determine its whereabouts immediately. Remote Door Unlock After supplying an advisor with a PIN, a signal is sent to unlock the user's door, and it can be delayed up to 15 minutes to allow enough time to return to the vehicle. If the user forgot to lock the vehicle doors upon leaving it, an advisor can send a signal to lock them.  Driving Directions Advisors with current digital maps can ensure that the user is headed in the right direction using a global positioning system to locate the vehicle and give clear directions or guidance. Other OnStar features include:· Roadside Assistance· Remote Horn and Lights· Accident Assist· Ride Assist· Information and Convenience· Online Concierge

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Wes Grimes

2004-03-01 14:01:00

Wes Grimes Question:  What causes brake dust to accumulate on my wheels? Do I need new brakes or is this normal?

ANSWER:  Brake dust comes from wear and tear on your brake pads, caused by normal everyday use. If your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes, you might want to make sure your rears are adjusted correctly for optimum brake power. If the rear drum brakes are out of adjustment, and not working correctly, that can cause more stress and wear on the front disc brakes causing them to work harder and wear out faster. In such, causing more brake dust on your front wheels. Organic and semi-metallic pads don't make as much dust as metallic pads, but usually don't last as long. Vehicles with 4-wheel disc brakes don't dust as much because the rear disc brakes are designed to stay in adjustment better, requiring less maintenance. Using your parking brake when you park your car (mostly 90's and newer) actually adjusts your rear brakes and helps keep them in adjustment. If you seem to go through three to four front brake jobs to one rear brake job, you are either getting really cheap front pads or your rear brakes are not working properly and should be serviced.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Brad Train

2004-02-01 16:25:00

: I'm busy! How do I keep the interior of my car from looking like I live in it?

Brad Train Question: I'm busy! How do I keep the interior of my car from looking like I live in it?Answer: To most of us, our car is our second home; our bedroom, kitchen and living room combined in one space. Keeping the interior of our car clean and fresh is the key to continued enjoyment. I can't help you with your busy schedule, but I can share some great tips to keep the interior of your car in the best possible state.Shampoo and condition! Apply a leather cleaner one section at a time and work the solution into a lather. If your leather is heavily soiled, use an upholstery (interior detailing) brush. Be sure to remove all soap from the surface with a damp towel. Rinse and wipe several times, then dry the leather with a fresh, dry towel. Water will not hurt your leather as most leather is actually made (tanned) in water. Condition your leather to prevent it from cracking by applying a leather conditioner to one section at a time using a soft foam wax applicator. Work the conditioner in thoroughly. Allow the conditioner to soak in for a few minutes, then buff off the excess with a dry terry cloth towel. After a few minutes of soaking, your leather has taken in all the moisture it can. The remaining moisture will evaporate into the interior of the car, leaving that milky cloud on the inside of your windows. Gunky carpets! Remove the floor mats, the front carpets, and the foam pads under the carpets, which can get wet and take on a musty odor. These foam mats are like odor-eaters in your shoes, they can get smelly. If they are deteriorating, rotting, or falling apart, order new ones. If you have mats over your carpets, hopefully your carpets are in good shape. Start by thoroughly vacuuming them. Use a household upright vacuum cleaner, not the nozzle type like at the car wash. Lay the carpeting on a flat clean surface and go over it for several minutes with the vacuum. Pick the carpets up and beat them against a chain link fence or a brick wall. Keep beating until you don't see copious amounts of dirt and dust flying out of them, and then vacuum again. Hang them on a clothesline to air out in the sunshine. If they smell, a little baking powder sprinkled generously on them will soak up most of the odors. Vacuum the powder off before replacing in car. Floor mats come in many varieties: carpet, rubber, or soft pile. All of these respond well to the beat-against-a-chain-link-fence method, and all except the rubber mats benefit from the same vacuuming treatment. You can wash and hose down rubber matsGrimy door panels! Use your home vacuum cleaner with the round soft bristle attachment to clean the surfaces of the door panels. Don't forget the interior side panels and the storage bins in the doors. This is an important step to pick up the big surface dust before using any cleaners on the interior surfaces. If you leave out this step, you'll actually wash the dirt into these surfaces. Cracking rubber! There are small rubber pieces in the interior, notably by the windows and the foot pedals. Use a Q-tip, or your fingers wrapped around a terry cloth towel and wipe these crevices several times with a tire shiner product. Spray the rubber around the door jams, wipe down, then do it again. This rubber has a tendency to rot or tear if not taken care of. Interior odor! Buy a box of baking soda and transfer contents into a container that will prevent powder from spilling. Place the container somewhere in the car where it will not be disturbed. Forget about it for several weeks and let the baking soda absorb any unwanted smell that is currently in your car. Then just throw away the container and replace it with a fresh box to eliminate any future odors. To keep your car smelling fresh, put a pouch of ground coffee beans under the seat. Pick your flavor!Polluted vents! Take window cleaner and Q-tips to clean out the air vents on the dash. A quick shot of silicone spray, wipe down with a lint free towel and they'll look better than new.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Brad Train

2003-12-01 08:41:00

: How often can I wash my car without damaging the finish?

ANSWER: Washing and waxing your car regularly can help retain it’s value over the years. According to the Kelley Blue Book, "A clean, well-maintained car can be worth up to 50% more than one in 'fair' condition." Condition of a vehicle refers to the interior as well as the body, or exterior. Although there may be damage to the exterior such as dents, dings, or hail damage, the general condition can be preserved with proper care.   Washing your vehicle on a regular basis protects it from the natural elements that harm the finish. Car owners often use damaging non-automotive products to wash their cars. Products designed for purposes other than car maintenance could contain harmful detergents, abrasives and additives. Avoid dish detergent, which contains harsh chemicals to cut through grease. They will strip the wax finish. Some detergents are hard to rinse and will leave streaks. For best results, use a formulated automotive wash. Here are a few tips:·Don't wash cars in direct sunlight, wash in the shade, early morning or late afternoon. ·Use warm water in your bucket.·Wash one section of the car at a time, rinsing repeatedly to prevent the soap from drying.·Never scrub and always use a soft terrycloth towel or washing mitt.·Spray the car often with water.·Dry with a soft terrycloth towel or scratch-free cloth. (Cloth baby diapers are great!)·Never neglect waxing.   Believe it or not, some motorists never wax their vehicles. Waxing at least twice a year is recommended for maximum protection. Not  waxing your car because you have a clear-coat finish is a myth. A clear-coat finish is about as thick as a piece of paper, which can easily become damaged from the effects of sunlight, UV radiation, acid rain, salt, dirt and air pollution.  So, to answer your question, wash it when it needs it! Just use the right products.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Brad Train

2003-11-01 14:34:00

:  Why can't I use the cruise control option immediately after the purchase of a new vehicle?

ANSWER: It is recommended that for the first 1,000 miles, new car owners should not drive for long periods of time at any single speed, either fast or slow.  This recommendation is made because it is advised to let the engine break in over its complete operating range so that everything wears in at the same rate therefore extending its life. There are a few things to consider during this break-in period that will insure the long life of your new vehicle:·Drive gently and avoid high speeds ·Avoid full throttle acceleration when starting and driving·Avoid racing the engine·Try to avoid hard stops during the first 200 miles·Do not tow a trailer during the first 500 miles·To further extend the life of your new vehicle (and to save fuel) after the break-in period:·Keep your tires inflated at the correct pressure. Under inflation causes tire wear and wastes fuel.·Do not carry unneeded weight in your vehicle. Excess weight puts heavier load on the engine, causing greater fuel consumption.·Avoid lengthy warm-up idling. Once the engine is running smoothly, begin driving-but gently. Remember, however, that on cold winter days this may take longer.·Accelerate slowly and smoothly. Avoid jackrabbit starts. Get into high gear as quickly as possible.·Avoid long engine idling. If you have a long wait and you are not in traffic, it is better to turn off the engine and start again later.·Avoid engine lugging or over-revving. Use a gear position suitable for the road on which you are traveling.·Avoid continuous speeding up and slowing down. Stop-and-go driving wastes fuel.·Avoid unnecessary stopping and braking. Maintain a steady pace. Try to time traffic signals so you only need to stop as little as possible or take advantage of through streets to avoid traffic lights. Keep a proper distance from other vehicles to avoid sudden braking. This will reduce wear on your brakes.·Avoid heavy traffic or traffic jams whenever possible.·Do not rest your foot on the brake pedal. This causes premature wear, overheating and poor fuel economy, not to mention the reaction of those vehicles following you!·Maintain a moderate speed on highways. The faster you drive, the greater the fuel consumption. By reducing your speed, you will cut down on fuel consumption.·Keep the front wheels in proper alignment. Avoid hitting the curb and slow down on rough roads. Improper alignment not only causes faster tire wear but also puts an extra load on the engine, which, in turn, wastes fuel. ·Keep the bottom of your vehicle free from mud, etc. This not only lessens the weight but also helps prevent corrosion.   Keep your vehicle tuned-up and in top shape. A dirty air cleaner, improper valve clearance, dirty plugs, dirty oil and grease, brakes not adjusted, etc. all lower engine performance and contribute to poor fuel economy. For longer life of all parts and lower operating costs, keep all maintenance work on schedule, and if you often drive under severe conditions, see that your vehicle receives more frequent maintenance.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Bobby Lubbers

2003-11-01 08:49:00

: I have been reading your articles about fuel cells and recently watched the 60 Minutes segment on the fuel cells.  Since fuel cells run on hydrogen, an obvious question I have yet to see addressed is... how safe is hydrogen?

ANSWER: Hydrogen has suffered image problems. Hydrogen is usually  associated with two things: 1) the Hindenburg disaster and, 2)  the hydrogen bomb.   In 1937 the Hindenburg was destroyed attempting to land in an electrical storm outside of Lakehurst, NJ.  Witness reported observing a blue glow on the top of the airship. The blue glow is indicative of extremely high electrical activity.  The current school of thought indicates that the electricity around the skin of the ship probably ignited the skin. The skin was composed of either cellulose nitrate or cellulose acetate.  Aluminum flakes were combined with these materials to reflect sunlight, to keep the airship cool.  The combination of cellulose nitrate and aluminum is commonly known today as the recipe for rocket fuel.  The hydrogen contained in the airship did burn.  However, hydrogen is lighter than air and the flames streaked upwards, not down into the passenger cabin.  Everyone who died in the disaster died from falling to their death or burning to death from flaming, dripping, diesel fuel.  All modern fuel cell systems and hydrogen storage techniques are engineered with safety as paramount concern.  The composite tanks used to store liquid and gaseous hydrogen undergo rigorous safety testing before they are certified for hydrogen storage.   The other reason hydrogen has received negative press in the past is its relationship to the hydrogen bomb.  For hydrogen atoms to fuse tighter, as in a hydrogen bomb, special circumstances have to occur. Hydrogen will only fuse under extremely high heat and pressures.  This could absolutely never happen in a fuel cell system or hydrogen storage device.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Bobby Lubbers

2003-10-01 11:56:00

: It seems as though there has been a lot of talk about fuel cells lately and the role they will play in the future.  Can you tell me about them?

ANSWER: Last month we discussed possible uses for fuel cells, this month we’ll finish our discussion on fuel cells and their efficiency.   Thermo-dynamic laws limit ICEs and all other combustion engines. Having no flame, fuel cells avoid the efficiency losses associated with the ignition, burning, heat transfer to the gases, and exhaust. Fuel cells convert the chemical energy in the fuel directly into electrical energy, which is fed into an electric motor to power the wheels of a FCV.   As gasoline enters an ICE, about 85 percent of the energy released by burning it in the engine is lost, mainly as waste heat. The remaining energy is converted to mechanical energy to rotate the engine's shafts and gears; some of this mechanical energy is lost through friction, as it passes through the transmission to the wheels. Even worse, when a car idles, the efficiency is zero. A practical way to think of your vehicle's efficiency is through your own pocketbook. Sport Utility Vehicles (SUVs) have been tested with efficiencies of around 10 percent. When you drive your SUV to the gas station and fill the tank with $20.00 of gasoline, or chemical fuel, only $2.00 actually goes towards moving your vehicle. The rest, $18.00 of your money, is wasted as heat or pollution.  Isn't that amazing?   Battery powered electric vehicles demonstrate the importance of looking at the entire "well-to-wheels" picture, since no energy conversion takes place on board. Toyota has shown its pure electric vehicle having a vehicle efficiency of 80%, twice that of FCVs. If you take into account the "well-to-tank" efficiency of 26% and the efficiencies associated with charging the battery; the overall (well-to-wheels) efficiency becomes 21% - better than today's vehicles, but not as efficient as a FCV.  Even today, with alternative fuel generation and distribution in its infancy, FCVs have higher "well-to-wheels" efficiencies than any other type of vehicle, including ICE and battery hybrids. Three independent analyses have reached similar, but not identical conclusions. Toyota's in-house testing has published 13% overall, "well-to-wheels," fuel cycle efficiency for its gasoline ICE vehicles. The Methanol Institute (MI) has released very similar overall numbers. MI's research shows gasoline ICE vehicles have a 15 percent overall, well-to-wheels efficiency. Compare that to Toyota's FCHV-4 running on compressed hydrogen overall efficiency of 30+ percent (58 percent for "well-to-tank" and 48 percent "tank-to-wheel" respectively), and MI's 31 percent overall efficiency for the average hydrocarbon fuel cell vehicle (85 percent for "well-to-tank" and 36 percent "tank-to-wheel" respectively.)      GM conducted a "well-to-wheels" study with Argonne National Laboratory, BP, Exxon, Mobil and Shell. The study found that hydrogen-powered fuel cell vehicles are the cleanest and most efficient combination of fuel and propulsion system for the long term, offering zero vehicle tailpipe emissions, greater efficiency and lower CO2, "well-to-wheels", than other vehicles. FCV prototypes also have promising long-term potential for weight, size and cost reductions to make them competitive with current ICE cars.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Bobby Lubbers

2003-09-01 14:53:00

: It seems as though there has been a lot of talk about fuel cells lately and the role they will play in the future.  Can you tell me about them?  

ANSWER: Last month we talked about the invention of fuel cells and how they work.  This month we will begin to talk about possible uses.  Fuel cell automobiles are an attractive advance from battery-powered cars. They offer the advantages of battery-powered vehicles but can also be refueled quickly and could go longer between refuelings. Fuel cells utilizing hydrogen as a fuel would be zero emission vehicles, and those using other fuels would produce near-zero emissions, be  more efficient than "grid"-powered battery vehicles and could produce fewer "system-wide" releases of greenhouse gases, taking into account all emissions associated with resource recovery, fuel processing and use.  Fuel cell vehicles (FCVs) are achieving efficiencies of 40-50% in current testing and these numbers are improving every day. Increased energy efficiency, which would reduce dependence on foreign oil and increase energy security, makes FCVs an  attractive replacement for internal combustion engines (ICEs), which are between 10-16% efficient.Many automotive manufacturers have released data showing that FCVs are much more efficient than comparable ICE vehicles. Toyota’s research shows its conventional gasoline vehicle with a vehicle efficiency of only 16%, while its FCVH-4, running on hydrogen, is projected to achieve 48% vehicle efficiency, three times more efficient. General Motors claims its fuel cell prototypes running on hydrogen have more than twice the efficiency of their conventional gasoline vehicles.  With vehicle emissions and fuel efficiency, it is important to look at the complete picture - from the time the fuel is first taken from the ground, produced, refined, manufactured, transported, and stored, until it actually powers a vehicle, as well as the overall safety risks of handling the fuel along the way. This approach is known as the complete fuel cycle or "well-to-wheels" analysis. A "well-to-wheels" analysis factors in the fuel production efficiency (well-to-tank) and the vehicle efficiency (tank-to-wheel).    Next month, we’ll continue our discussion on fuel cells.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Gary Louise Lee

2003-09-01 10:08:00

: We have heard and ejoyed your histories of Toyota and Jeep.  What about Honda?   

ANSWER: To continue our discussion on Honda from last months’ issue, in 1937, Soichiro Honda started his first company Tokai Seiki Heavy Industry (TSHI) to manufacture piston rings. With his first business, Honda experienced many failures in experimenting with the die casting techniques. He would spend day and night working in the company, so much so that his wife had to stop by the factory to cut his long straggling hair.  Honda had a simple belief.  A piston ring is made out of such small amount of material, and when done right, it could be sold at a good price.  At that time TSHI's piston rings were more valuable than the silver of the same weight. By perfecting the die casting methods, he began expanding to manufacture cast iron spokes (in place of the wooden spokes). The idea was so revolutionary that Honda was granted a patent on producing metal wheels.  The piston rings were of such high standards that Honda landed its biggest customer, Toyota Motor.  Toyota Motor was impressed with the quality of the product and made TSHI an offer of 450,000 yen (equivalent of almost l million US Dollars today) for complete 100% ownership of his company. Honda accepted the deal and decided to live the rest of his life in comfort, in a sort of a semi-retired lifestyle. But automobiles and racing were still in his blood.The First Honda   After the end of World War II, Soichiro Honda established Honda Technical Research Institute on October 1946. The Post WWII days were very harsh.  Japan faced many shortages of the basic needs, such as food, water, and medicine for its citizens. People in cities which were completely destroyed by war, had to travel great distances to the country side farms to buy the necessities of life, at a time when nearly all forms of public transportation were disrupted.  So Honda's first project with this new company was to recycle small engines that had been used by the Japanese Imperial Army. These tiny motors were bought cheaply, then attached to bicycles, and sold for a high profit.  The popularity of his motorbike increased so much all over war-torn Japan that bicycle dealers across the country came to his factory, with cash in hand, to buy it on the spot.  As a very resourceful man, Honda also sold them a special blend of turpentine oil and gasoline.   Next time we will discuss more about Honda… the businessman.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Gary Louise Lee

2003-08-01 11:28:00

: We have heard and enjoyed your histories of Toyota and Jeep.  What about Honda? 

ANSWER: Honda     started with a young man named Soichiro Honda.  He got his first job at a Tokyo auto repair shop in 1922 after only eight years of schooling.  As a 15-year-old boy from a small town, he was glad to see as many as 10 cars on a busy day.  He was hired as a Mechanic Assistant, but his job turned out to be a "baby-sitter" for the owner's young children.  Honda had dreams of being an expert auto mechanic, and he never got that chance.  Being frustrated, he packed his bags, quit his job, and left the big city.  When the shop needed help 6 months later, they called Honda back to assist with auto repair, finally giving him the opportunity he was looking for.  Then an earthquake flattened Tokyo, sending all the repair shop mechanics back home, except for Honda and a senior mechanic.  This proved to be an excellent opportunity to receive thorough one-on-one training.  To Honda's fortune, the owner of the auto repair shop loved auto racing, and encouraged Honda to use his free time at night to build race cars.  So he did, using an old 8.0 liter V8 fighter airplane engine to power his car.  The car had a maximum 100hp @ 1,400 rpm and wooden spoke wheels.   Honda would continue to experiment with various designs and concepts.  He would test these ideas every chance he had at the local racetrack.  These included tilting the engine for better weight distribution in oval tracks, supercharging, heat conducting metals to dissipate heat from the engine, and he was the first to add an auxiliary radiator to improve cooling.  The result was an engine that did not blow up in a race.  Remember this was still the 1920’s.  In Honda's first race in Japan in July 1936, he led with an incredible speed of 75mph only to tangle with another car near the final lap and crashed.  Honda was thrown from the car, his face crushed, left shoulder dislocated, and both wrists broken.  Although Honda did not win, he was given a trophy for setting the average speed record (75mph) in Japan.  A record unbroken until 10 years after World War II.   Next time we will talk about the first company Soichiro Honda built called Tokai Seiki Heavy Industry (TSHI).  It was a manufacturer of piston rings.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Gary Louise Lee

2003-07-01 16:09:00

: I thoroughly enjoyed your multi-part series on Toyota and its history. Much of the content continually referred to Jeep. Can you provide the same on it and its history?

ANSWER: To finish our answer to last months’ question, we will pick up where we left off...the history of the Jeep after World War II.     Willys-Overland was not one of the automotive giants in the prewar era, and had retooled most of their production facilities to jeeps. After the war, production of passenger cars continued, but the company couldn't ignore the potential civilian market for jeeps. They filed for a trademark registration of "Jeep" and began production. The most direct product transition was the CJ (Civilian Jeep) line. This product was little changed from those that had "won the war". The first CJ-2A was produced in 1945. The line has continued from the CJ2 through the CJ3, CJ5, CJ6, CJ7, and CJ8. (They did make a CJ4 but it was only a prototype that never went into production.) The CJ5 and CJ7 are the most common, with the CJ7 being a little longer than the CJ5. The CJ6 and CJ8 were longer wheelbase than the CJ7, but they weren't as popular, and consequently there were fewer of them manufactured. There was also a CJ10, but it wasn't sold in the US.    The postal Jeeps are designated as DJ for Dispatcher Jeep. They are 2WD and most are right hand controls.    The Wrangler (YJ & TJ) are direct descendants of the CJ line, so I guess you can say that the original Jeep line is still going. But since 1963 Jeeps have been manufactured by Kaiser, AMC, and Chrysler. So I'm getting sidetracked from the Willys story. The Willys    Back in those post-war years, Willys-Overland tried to broaden their market by returning to the car and truck business, in addition to the CJ's. Their products were nothing like the smooth, graceful pre-war products. Instead they capitalized on the tough, utilitarian image of the Jeep with three new vehicles: the Willys Jeep Wagon in 1946, the Willys Jeep Truck in 1947, and the Willys Jeepster in 1948.    These were called the 'Jeep' Utility Vehicles and all retained clear influences of the military Jeep, but the forms were intermediate between the normal rounded forms of the autos of the period and the boxy Jeep. The wagon was similar to the panel trucks or delivery wagons of the day, but with those unmistakable flat fenders (and later 4WD). The truck was similar in size and functionality of a GMC, Ford or Dodge truck of the day, but once again with the Jeep look and available in 4WD.    The Jeepster was a convertible about halfway between a military Jeep and a sports car. This two-wheel drive vehicle was only made from 1948 to 1950, but was resurrected by AMC in the '60's as the Jeepster Commando. Some people point out that the Jeepster was technically a phaeton, not a convertible. A phaeton was a type of two-door touring car without a solid top. To the common man, phaeton doesn't mean much.    The wagon and pickup truck were available in both 2WD and 4WD with a 4-cylinder or 6-cylinder engine. Kaiser bought Willys-Overland in 1953 and dropped "Overland" from the name. In 1956, Willys introduced snub-nosed forward control models. Production of Willys wagons and trucks continued under the name of the Willys Motor Company until 1963, when the name was changed to the Kaiser-Jeep Corporation. Production of the Willys wagons and trucks continued for two more years until 1965. Willys had production facilities in Brazil, Argentina, Israel, and India, and Japan. Some of these continued making vehicles that were essentially the same as the Utility vehicles for several more years. But eventually Kaiser sold these. Thus ended the production of those interesting vehicles we call Willys.    If the folks at Willys had known that driving in the dirt was a sport, they would have called them Sport Utility Vehicles, but they didn't, so they were dubbed simply Utility Vehicles. It is up to those of us who came later to make a sport of driving them. The Willys Utility Wagon is clearly the grand daddy of all modern SUV's. It was a 4WD wagon with enough space inside to load up and go most anywhere. What's in a Name    The original pronunciation of "Willys" was with a short "i" sound for the 'y"; so it was pronounced "Will-iss". But it seems to have been transmuted by the same flexibility of language that could produce "Jeep" out of "GP". I've heard that the workers in the Willys factories were the first people to mispronounce the name. Like most everyone I have ever talked with, they pronounced it with a long "e" sound for the "y". The official DMV title for my truck lists the make as a "Willy". (They only have space for five characters on the title.) From that, people guess that one vehicle must be a Willy, pronounced "Willie", which is as good a nickname for William as is Bill. So "Willys" would be pronounced "Will- eez" and obviously be more than one "Willy". Everyone seems to get more and more confused over time. Even my insurance agent asked me if there was an "e" before the "y". I guess I add to the confusion. I often say "Will-eez" as a nickname for those unique trucks and wagons produced from 1946 until 1965.    Kaiser bought Willys (1953), AMC bought Kaiser (1970), and Chrysler bought AMC (1987). Then Chrysler merged with Daimler in 1998. The Germans who lost the war to the Jeep now own it! Since the company is no more, who is to tell me I'm saying its name wrong - the Germans?

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Bobby Lubbers

2003-07-01 13:46:00

: Can you give me any information about Hybrids? 

ANSWER: Hybrid Vehicles are a new technology being utilized by manufacturers in an effort to improve fuel economy and emissions on automobiles. Current models now utilize combinations of gasoline and electricity to power the vehicle. There are models under development which hope to use alternative forms of fuel such as hydrogen, but patent laws and legal battles are slowing the introduction of this new technology.    My overall opinion of these vehicles is mixed. While I applaud automobile manufacturers for pursuing new and alternative fuel systems, I worry about the durability and reliability of vehicles utilizing electricity to power the engines. For a number of years now, electric automobiles have been tested and sold in states such as California with mixed results. Problems such as frequent breakdowns, lack of power, and short travel distances have plagued these vehicles. Now, with a combination of gasoline and electricity, we should see better results, but service concerns and parts availability should be addressed.    As I understand it, these hybrid vehicles pack enough voltage to knock you out of your socks if you are not careful when it comes to the engine. Make sure that if you buy one of these vehicles you are aware of all of the electrical components in the engine compartment so as to avoid any new hairstyles should you inadvertently work on the wrong pieces of the engine. But this brings up a new issue, where will you have the vehicle worked on? Obviously you will go back to the dealer and have this worked on, and this would be my recommendation regardless, but you should take this into consideration if you will be traveling extensively. Obviously, Joe Shadetree will not have the technology to work on these vehicles so you must ensure the availability of your respective manufacturers dealers in servicing your vehicle.    I do not believe that these vehicles or this technology are in any way a passing fad. Currently, GM and Chrysler are working on various hybrid models, and I understand Ford has some in the works also. I would suggest that you research this to the best of your ability and make an informed decision based on availability of both parts and service. New technology is always great to see and experience, but I think everyone would agree that sometimes it can be a bear being the guinea pig when it comes to new gadgets. I look forward to seeing how all of this new technology works out, it certainly is an interesting time to be buying new vehicles.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Bobby Lubbers

2003-06-01 16:04:00

: What does the term 'upside down' mean? Is it the same thing as 'negative equity'?  How can some dealers say they can get rid of this?  Isn't the only way to get rid of debt to pay it off?  

ANSWER:  This is an excellent question about one of the most misunderstood issues in the retail automotive industry, and the short of it is yes, the term "upside down" does refer to the negative equity an individual has owed on his or her vehicle.    Many "experts" in the automotive industry estimate that as much as 80% of the population is in a negative equity position on the vehicles they own! But before I go getting everyone worked up and ready to hunt down car dealers with pitchforks and torches, let me explain how even the wisest of car buyers can find themselves in this position. Like most machinery and equipment, automobiles are a depreciating asset. This means they have a limited life span with limited capabilities, and consumers are constantly being deluged with newer and better models with better options and yep, you guessed it, higher prices. I tell many of my customers that when I was coming up in the car business my father used to remark that when a pickup truck costs more than $20,000, we might as well lock the doors because nobody will pay that much, and today I see people buying trucks that cost nearly $50,000! Prices this high require mortgage payments, not auto loans!    This combination of higher prices and longer loan terms has had the largest impact on consumers with regard to equity or lack thereof in their vehicle. Years ago, people used to buy vehicles and either pay cash or take out two to three year loans to pay for them. There was even a time when some banks did not make auto loans! And those that did required substantial down payments. Today, you can get auto loans with no money down and terms up to 7 or 8 years. Now, this might be a great way of getting the payment you are looking for, but longer term loans consist of mostly interest payments for the first couple of years with very little principal reduction. Many people think they will keep a vehicle forever and thus avoid a negative equity situation, but the average individual keeps their vehicle for less than three years. It's easy to see where this combination of factors can soon lead to a frightening car ownership experience.    Don't be fooled by car dealers proclaiming that they will pay off your car loan no matter what you owe. I believe these statements and practices to be unethical. The truth of the matter is that you will be paying off your vehicle. If you go to purchase a new or used vehicle, the amount you owe on your trade-in is always added into the loan you take out for your new vehicle. So, while your trade-in is paid off, you have just rolled over what you owe on it to your next vehicle, and uh-oh, just increased the amount you owe on your new vehicle!! If you are financing the sales tax also and putting no money down, chances are you now owe more on the car than it is worth.    So, the moral to this story is to pay your debts. The only way to be debt free is to pay off that car you're driving or at least keep it until you have paid down to a point where what you owe is less than the value of the vehicle. Or better yet, don't buy vehicles without putting money down and try not to add the extras like sales tax or extended warranties to your loan, pay cash for these items. Also, try to purchase vehicles that have the best resale value. Like I have been saying from day one, an automobile purchase is a major investment. It never ceases to amaze me that people buy vehicles with little or no prior research or preparation. Always do your homework and do business with someone you know and trust. Over the long term you'll come out the winner and hang on to more of your hard earned money.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Gary Louise Lee

2003-06-01 10:13:00

:  I thoroughly enjoyed your multi-part series on Toyota and its history. Much of the content continually referred to Jeep. Can you provide the same on it and its history? 

ANSWER: I will give it a try. Here's what I can find: John North Willys bought the Overland Automotive Division of Standard Wheel Company in 1908 and in 1912 named it the Willys-Overland Motor Company. Willys-Overland made both automobiles and trucks. The company was reorganized in 1936 after a depression bankruptcy to Willys-Overland Motors, Inc. Some of the coolest street rods are built from pre-WW2 Willys cars. The Birth of the Jeep    As the war in Europe spread in the late '30s, the U.S. Military wanted a new lightweight, four-wheel-drive, reconnaissance vehicle. They solicited bids for command/reconnaissance car with an 80" wheelbase and weighing 1300 lbs. in June of 1940. Three companies responded: Bantam, Ford and Willys. The Bantam Car Company had the leading contender based on overall design, but Willys had the wonderful "Go Devil" flat-head four-cylinder engine. Ford had some good ideas too and there was a pooling of ideas that surely violated the spirit, if not the letter, of intellectual property, trade-mark, and other laws, but served the governments needs. The final winner after a few resubmittals was the GPW. "G" for government, "P" for pigmy (a Ford term) and "W" for Willys.    One story has it that the lowly, uninformed GI's thought "GP" was for general purpose, and pronounced it "jeep". Other people say that the word "jeep" was slang for any wonderfully multipurpose thing. The Popeye cartoon had a character, named "Eugene the Jeep" in 1936, who had all kinds of amazing powers. Anyway, the source of the name "Jeep" is now veiled by the passage of time... but on with the story.    The government selected a vehicle based mostly on the design by the Bantam Car Company. Bantam didn't have the mass production facilities needed to supply the government, and the military wanted multiple suppliers. Willys got a contract to build "jeeps" in late 1940. Ford was also awarded a contract a week later. Many parts were interchangeable between the Willys and Ford jeeps. Of the roughly half million jeeps produced for WW2, Willys-Overland made about 360,000 between 1941 and 1945. The jeeps proved to be rugged and dependable in the war, and by the time the soldiers came home, jeeps were well known and loved for their durability and unstoppability.    Next month, we’ll continue with the history of the jeep following World War II.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Bobby Lubbers

2003-05-01 14:10:00

:  I have a 1993 Chevy Lumina Z34 V8 with 67,000 miles. Last summer I was cruising at about 55 and my car suddenly stopped. It had broken the timing belt and the timing chain. I've taken it to (2) different repair shops 4 different times to try to get it timed right and they just can't seem to get it. It runs great in drive but when you put it in overdrive, it vibrates until you reach about 55 mph. I've had the spark plugs and wires changed but it still won't run right. They can't find the right book with the diagram for the spark plug wires. What else could be the problem?

ANSWER:  This is a very difficult question to answer, and I must tell you that my service manager and I have pondered this issue for a number of days now.  First of all, I must beg a question.  Are you certain that your Lumina has a V8 engine?  In 1993, the Lumina Z34 had a 3.1 liter V6 as standard equipment or had an optional high output 3.4 liter V6.  If there is a V8 engine in your car, we may have an incurable problem since this automobile does not have original manufacturer equipment on it.     The problem you are having sounds very close to similar problems we have seen on 3.4 V6 Lumina Z34's.  Remember my previous articles urging people to see their factory certified service departments?  Well, this is a classic example.  A 3.1 V6 engine has a timing chain on it, and a 3.4 V6 has a timing belt.  Any reference to replacing the timing belt and chain on your car is incorrect, as the car can only have one or the other.  Assuming that you have the 3.4 liter engine, I am not surprised that they are having a problem getting the timing set right.  The 3.4 V6 comes with with four (4) cam shafts where your average engine only has one or sometimes two.  If a mechanic working on this automobile is not properly equipped or trained, and does not correctly note where his belt needs to be in relation to the cam shafts, he may not get the cam shafts positioned correctly to allow for proper engine timing.     Your problem is not incurable, unfortunately it may be quite expensive.  The repair to this problem is going to involve removal of your intake manifold and valve cover gaskets to gain access to your cam shafts.  The tools required to align your timing involve cam shaft markers and holders that will probably not be found anywhere but a factory certified service department.  This engine is quite tricky, and if the mechanic you had working on it before was aligning the cams by sight (like many do) he would never be able to get this corrected.  It would not surprise me to see that the car is operating better in park than in drive, since the engine will operate at a higher and more consistent rpm than it will in drive.  I doubt very seriously that any plug wires have been crossed as this would be evident in most cases even at idle.     I can understand your frustration with this issue, your car sounds like a very well kept automobile, and the Lumina Z34 was a well built and beautiful machine.  I highly recommend that you call your Chevrolet service department and get this problem corrected before it causes irreparable damage to your engine.  If you should have any other questions or require assistance in this matter, please feel free to contact me.  Professional and ethical service shops should stand behind their work, and if they are unable to repair a problem completely will probably bear some of the cost in getting a problem corrected by another shop.  Good Luck!!

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Gary Louise Lee

2003-05-01 11:49:00

:  What is the history of the Toyota company and their Land Cruiser?  Is it true it was the vehicle that literally made the company?

ANSWER:  We will do our best to answer your questions over the next couple issues (3rd in series... see Mar. ‘03 & Apr. ‘03)       There is very little correlation, considering the BJ (Toyota-built prototype that proceeded the Land Cruiser in 1951) has been accused by some to be a copy of the Jeep. The specifications are different because a completely different philosophy was employed in the design of the BJ. The Willys had been designed to be as light as possible, using an engine with roots in automobiles. Because of the low torque characteristics of the engine, a two-speed transfer case with extra gear reduction was used to allow passage over rough terrain. The BJ, on the other hand, was created using components from 2 and 4 ton trucks. The torque from the 6-cylinder B-85 engine did not require the extra gear reduction. Instead a 4-speed transmission with a 5.53:1 first gear was employed to get a little more low-end grunt.     The vehicle was dubbed the "Toyota Jeep," possibly as a result of the wording of the U.S. Army's procurement order. Fortunately, the right to the "Jeep" name was owned by Willys who forced Toyota to choose another name. On June 24, 1954, the name "Land Cruiser" was chosen.In 1954, the first Land Cruisers were exported to Pakistan.     In 1955, 23 Land Cruisers were exported to Saudi Arabia. The vehicles proved to be wildly popular and exports grew steadily.     On Feb 21, 1956, the first two Land Cruisers were exported to Venezuela. These were quickly followed by exports to Burma, Malaysia, and Puerto Rico.     Toyota entered the African market by sending Crowns and Land Cruisers to Ethiopia. Because marketing proved difficult with the large number of languages spoken in Africa, Toyota was forced to adopt the sales technique of driving a sample vehicle all over Africa and dealing direct with potential purchasers.     The U.S.A. was somewhat different in that in 1957, it received two Crowns before any Land Cruisers. However, the Crowns were found to perform poorly at the higher speeds of American Interstates. Toyota was forced to halt passenger car importing in 1960, leaving only the Land Cruiser to bear the company's name in the United States.Toyota did not make the same mistake in Australia. The first vehicles sent there were Land Cruisers. They arrived in July 1959, and were marketed by Theiss Sales as commercial vehicles.     Toyota began to market the Model DA60 truck, its first powered by a diesel engine, in March 1957. However, brand loyalty was strong in Japan so Toyota was forced to establish links to Hino Motors, a diesel truck manufacturer.     Hino would later provide the B and H series diesel engines used in Land Cruisers.     In May, 1959, Toyota began Land Cruiser assembly in Brazil. This was the first case of knock-down kits being assembled outside Japan. Land Cruiser assembly started in 1963 in Venezuela, 1970 in Indonesia and Pakistan (although Pakistani production was terminated in 1986), and 1977 in Kenya, and 1982 in Bangladesh.     Toyota's first exports to Europe were to Denmark, in 1964. That was quickly followed by exports to Finland, the Netherlands, Belgium, Switzerland, Great Britain, France, Italy, Austria, Greece, and finally, Germany.     It was not until 1964 that Toyota came to Canada. The first vehicles imported were the Crown, Land Cruiser, and Publica. The Publica proved to be unsuitable for the Canadian climate and was quickly withdrawn; however, by 1971, largely on the strength of Land Cruiser sales, Toyota had become the number one import brand in Canada.     Throughout the history of Toyota, it was the Land Cruiser that led the way into new export markets and proved Toyota’s toughness.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Bobby Lubbers

2003-04-01 11:53:00

:  My brake pedal is low when I step on it, but it comes up when I pump the brakes. Do I need new brakes?

ANSWER:  A low brake pedal is definitely cause for concern.  If I were you I would get my car in to the service department as soon as possible.  There are a number of different components involved in the brake system of an automobile, and each is critical.  An improperly functioning brake system can lead to damage to your vehicle or worse, injury to yourself and others.  Whenever you experience any kind of problem or suspect a problem, I strongly encourage a visit to your dealership service department.  Maintenance and repair to your brake system is probably the wisest investment any automobile owner can make, so please have that checked as soon as possible.In answer to your question, a low brake pedal, (often called a soft pedal) can be indicative of a number of problems.  The most likely and inexpensive cause would be low brake fluid.  But make sure that you don't just go and add fluid to the reservoir since you may have some other problem that would be causing the fluid to leak.  A low fluid level condition could be indicative of a leaking master cylinder or leaking brake lines, even low brake pads or shoes and neither of these problems is anything to be trifled with.Depending on the type of vehicle you have and the brake system on your vehicle, your problem sounds similar to a rear brake adjustment problem and possible air in your brake lines.  Regardless, it is crucial that you get your car in to a service department and have this problem corrected. Nothing on your car is more important than the ability to stop and stop safely.  Any good brake service should consist of an entire brake system inspection.  Don't let yourself be taken in by services advertised per axle, as this is an incomplete brake service.  An adequate brake service will consist of inspecting and/or servicing the entire brake system on your vehicle.  Granted, you will not need to replace the brakes on the front and rear of your vehicle at the same time every time, but an adequate and professionally performed brake service should ensure the proper operation of your vehicle and the safety of you and your loved ones.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Gary Louise Lee

2003-03-01 13:26:00

:  What is the history of the Toyota company and their Land Cruiser?  Is it true it was the vehicle that literally made the company?

ANSWER:  We will do our best to answer your questions over the next couple issues.  Trucks played a pivotal role in the history of the Toyota Motor Company.  In most cases, the Land Cruiser was the vehicle that carried the Toyota banner into new markets.  However, a complete history of Toyota requires a look at the man whose company provided the capital and initial production facilities necessary for the founding of the Toyota Motor Company.Sakichi Toyoda was born in 1867 in Yamaguchi, Japan.  He had dedicated his life to the invention of an automatic textile loom.  In 1907, he formed Toyoda's Loom works, a company that by 1930 had grown into the Toyoda Automatic Loom Works (TALW).Although he shared the inventiveness of his father, Kiichiro Toyoda did not share the fascination with looms.  Instead Kiichiro dreamed of building automobiles.  In March 1930, he began to build a prototype engine in a corner of the Toyoda Automatic Loom Works factory.  By January 29, 1934, Kiichiro had made enough progress with his engine design that TALW established an Automobile Department.  The first engine, a 3.4l I6 dubbed the Type A was completed in September 1934.  The first complete automobile prototype, the Model A1 was completed in May 1935.Due to restrictions on the domestic automobile industry, Kiichiro decided that would be better to focus on the production of trucks.  As a result, the first prototype Toyota truck, the Model G1 was completed on August 25, 1935.In July 1936, it was decided that the cars produced by TALW would be marketed under the name "Toyota."  The name was chosen because it sounded better than Toyoda, the katakana characters used to represent it were more aesthetically pleasing and consisted of eight strokes, a lucky number, and because the character was similar to the one representing growth.  The Toyota Motor Co., Ltd. (TMC) was formed on August 28, 1937.The Koromo Plant was officially opened in November of 1938.  This plant would later become known as the Honsha Plant--the site of LandCruiser Production.  The first vehicle produced at the new factory was the Model BM truck.  A version of the 75hp engine used in this vehicle was to become the first engine in a Land Cruiser.Next time we will see how the ‘Toyota Jeep’ became the Land Cruiser.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Bobby Lubbers

2003-03-01 11:49:00

:  My car has two fuse panels, one under the instrument panel and one in the engine compartment. How come?

ANSWER:  A common misconception that many people have about their automobile is that they have one computer monitoring and controlling the various tasks performed by the mechanical and electrical systems on their car.  In reality, there are several computers, called modules, on new vehicles.  Each of these modules has separate but overlapping tasks that they perform to ensure the peak performance of your automobile.I’m sure that you have no doubt noticed that the wiring and electronic gizmos on today’s cars could rival that of a stealth fighter, hence the need for two and sometimes three fuse panels.  But don’t let this frighten you.  While the presence of multiple fuse panels seems intimidating, it is actually the result of wiring simplifications that allow the numerous modules to communicate with each other.  The end result is still the same as it always has been, remove the fuse and the affected parts will not work.  But trying to fit all of these fuses into one location would not be feasible and no doubt result in reduced interior space for the driver and passengers.Fuses work to ensure that an electrical problem does not eliminate the entire electrical system.  Many times, when an electrical component fails it can have a domino effect and take down a number of components with it.  Fuses are designed to “blow” in order to interrupt the circuit and ensure that a problem does not spread to other systems and components.  Given the number of modules, sensors, and relays in modern automobiles, a complete failure would be catastrophic.  When your service or check engine light is on, this not only alerts you of potential problems, but indicates that the computer is recording the problem for future diagnosis and repair.  Only certain computers and equipment can communicate with your vehicle to find out what is happening and ultimately repair your vehicle.This brings up an interesting point.  Given the complexities of today’s modern automobiles, you might want to have a second thought or two on who you should have service your automobile.  Many people have routine maintenance such as oil changes and tire rotations done at a local service station simply to lower their maintenance costs.  It’s always a good idea to have factory repair centers or dealership service departments maintain your vehicle for you.  Only at a dealership will you find the computers and diagnostic equipment needed to properly maintain and repair your vehicle. Dealership technicians are trained to scan all of the computer and electrical systems to ensure proper operation every time that vehicle comes in.  Many times problems can be detected before they occur, and where electrical problems are concerned, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Wes Grimes

2003-02-01 15:14:00

:  I feel a high speed shimmy in the steering wheel. What's causing it?

ANSWER:  A high speed shimmy is usually caused by a wheel that's out of balance or a bent wheel. The first thing to check for would be a bent wheel. Raise the front of the vehicle off the ground and rotate each wheel by hand. If you see any sideways or in and out movement of the wheel, it is bent and needs to be replaced. WARNING: Although some people claim they can straighten bent wheels, doing so is risky -- especially with aluminum alloy wheels. Replacement is the safest option (but also expensive). If you don't see any sideways movement in the wheel, it doesn't necessarily mean the wheel is straight. There may be just enough sideways runout to cause a shimmy, but not enough to see. To find this kind of problem, you'll need a dial indicator. More than about .050 inch of sideways runout can be enough to cause a problem. If the wheels seem to be straight, have the balance of both wheels checked (or rebalanced). If that fails to cure the shimmy, you may have some kind of tire problem due to defective belt alignment or tire construction. Other causes may include loose or improperly adjusted wheel bearings, insufficient caster alignment (check and readjust alignment as needed), or a worn steering damper (on trucks or other vehicles equipped with a steering stabilizer).

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Bobby Lubbers

2003-02-01 12:11:00

:  Why is there such a big difference in what I can get for my trade-in at different car dealerships?  How do they arrive at the right price for my trade-in, and why is it different than what I find in the 'book'?

ANSWER:  This is a very good question, and one that I hear on a regular basis. There are a number of valuation services on the market today such as NADA, Kelly Blue Book, and Edmunds, and each will give you a different value for a vehicle. More often than not, the reliability of these numbers will depend on whether you are buying or selling. Let's put aside the different valuation methods for a moment and talk about the sales process at automobile dealerships. This will provide valuable insight into your trade value.Let's say you are shopping for a new truck and would like to trade-in your current vehicle. Being a wise and prudent buyer you have decided to compare prices between two dealerships, we'll call them Hometown Motors and ABC Motors. At Hometown Motors you find the truck you want and the dealer prices you this new truck for $25,000 and lists a value for your trade of $10,000, leaving a difference of $15,000. At this point you are pleased with the value of your trade but would like to find a lower price on the truck you are buying. At ABC Motors you find the same truck and the dealer will sell it to you for $22,000 but you can only get $8,000 for your trade leaving a difference of $14,000. Here you found the truck at the price you wanted but why is the trade-in not worth the same amount? Who is giving you the better deal?To find out who has the better deal, look at the trade difference. In the example, Hometown Motors had a difference of $15,000 and ABC Cars had a difference of $14,000. This means you give them your car and the cash, so even though ABC Cars is giving you $2,000 less for your trade they are making you the better deal on the new truck by $1,000. Too often, people get caught up in the different values for their trade-in and forget what is really important in the purchase of a new vehicle… THE NET COST. Car dealers can show many different prices for your trade by simply raising or lowering the price of the vehicle you are buying. If you want to know what the best deal always is… look at what it's going to cost you in cash to do the deal… and not at what a particular dealer might or might not give for your trade.  How does the dealer arrive at the value for your trade-in? Why is it different from the values you have found in NADA or even Kelly Blue Book? The majority of new car dealers use what is known as the 'Black Book'. This publication is released weekly and is a composite average of what vehicles are bringing at the program sales and auctions. In other words a dealer looks in the 'Black Book' to see what he could buy a vehicle just like yours for at the auction or program sale.  He makes adjustments for condition, mileage, and appearance. While these figures are often different from what you have found in your research, it is important to remember that the values a dealer uses from the ‘Black Book’ reflect current market conditions and weekly fluctuations versus monthly or quarterly publications, which are most often 2 to 3 months behind the market. Monthly publications such as NADA and Kelly Blue Book have little value other than providing retail prices for vehicles. NADA is used primarily by lenders to provide financing for vehicles, and many retailers use Kelly Blue Book because it provides inflated retail figures and often times undervalued trade values.  You should know that both of these publications were chartered or printed by automobile dealer associations to help them sell cars.Finally, the face of the automotive industry is changing rapidly, and you probably won't find many cigar- chomping car salesmen in polyester suits, but there are still plenty of traps you can fall into if you are not careful. The best advice is to do your homework and not get caught up in the values you will see thrown at you.  Shop and compare… and remember… the secret to your best deal lies in the trade difference. Buy where you get the lowest difference.  That will always be your best deal.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Bobby Lubbers

2003-01-01 12:08:00

:  I wanted to get a tune-up on my car and I called around to get some prices. One place quoted me 4 hours of labor to do the job. Another told me they charge a flat rate fee. What is the difference? The place that I chose only charged me for two hours, not four.  

ANSWER:  You can easily see that when you call around for an estimate you can get some pretty dramatic price differences. Most larger shops and all dealers that I am aware of will charge an hourly price for each job that is listed in a shop hourly manual. For example your tune-up might have an estimated repair or replacement time of four hours in the shop manual. This time is calculated using the shop hourly rate {i.e., 4 x $60}. Pretty straight forward right? Not all the time. So what do you get for the four hours of labor? If you call a shop and ask for a tune-up price, many will automatically figure in the price a fuel filter, spark plugs, air filter, PCV filter, and distributor ignition rotor plus all applicable labor charges. So the tune-up price from a shop like this would probably be much higher than a shop that only replaces spark plugs on their tune-up package. You need to make sure you are comparing apples to apples when you are calling around for prices. Some shops purposely give low ball telephone estimates just to get you in the door. Example: You call to get a price for a new radiator installed. Does the estimate include new antifreeze, a new radiator cap, and taxes?  Many would automatically figure these items in to the estimate, not only because they want to do a nice turn key job, but also because they don't want to have to sell you parts later on that they already know you will need. For this reason, some phone estimates can be higher than others but your final bill might be lower. There are also different brands of shop manuals on the market, so one manufacturer's dealer would be using a different labor estimating guide than another and what other independent shops may be using. Not only would these guides possibly give different replacement times, but they could also classify a tune-up differently like in the example above. So the shop that you found only charged you for the time they actually spent working on the car? Is that a better deal? Maybe not, if all they did was replace spark plugs and call it a tune-up. Just for grins, call them back and ask them how much they charge for just spark plugs. What if this shop has a slower mechanic, or deliberately takes longer to do the work just to rack up more time on the clock? On a different note, as a dealer and owner I would want to know why you are requesting a tune-up in the first place. What I have found is that if the car runs poorly or differently than normal, the customer often automatically asks for a tune-up. Cars of today are very sophisticated and full of computers and sensors that can cause your car to act strangely. So a tune-up might not fix the problem, and a proper diagnosis from the mechanic could be beneficial.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Wes Grimes

2002-12-01 09:12:00

:   I just bought a new set of wheels. In order to balance my tires, they put those ugly lead weights on the outside. Isn't there a better way?

ANSWER:  If you have chrome wheels, and hate ugly balance weights showing, you may want the wheels static balanced. Nothing worse than having ugly lead weights on the outside of the rims. However, while having the balance weights on the outside may look ugly, it really is required to properly balance the wheel dynamically. Static balance only balances in the plane of the tire, which is certainly the largest imbalance effect, however a side-to-side imbalance will not be taken out this way and can still lead to a noticeable vibration. Obviously you have to make the decision for yourself - looks or balance. Note that by no means am I saying that you'll always need weights on the outside. In many cases an acceptable balance can be obtained with inside weights only. I just wanted to point out that if the balancer says you need them on the outside, you have to decide which is more important. Of course, you could always try to get the tire guy to dismount the tire and rotate it on the rim to try and better match the two. Another option is dynamic balancing with stick-on weights on the backside barrel of the rim. Weights are put either in the middle (static); or on the flat barrel part between the inside edge and the outside edge by the wheel lip.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Wes Grimes

2002-11-01 15:46:00

:  My brakes are squealing. Does that mean I need a brake job?

ANSWER:  Not necessarily. A certain amount of brake noise is considered "normal" these days because of the harder semi-metallic brake pads that are used in most front-wheel drive cars and minivans. This type of noise does not affect braking performance and does not indicate a brake problem. However, if the noise is objectionable, there are ways to eliminate it. Brake squeal is caused by vibration between the brake pads, rotors and calipers. Pad noise can be lessened or eliminated by installing "noise suppression shims" (thin self-adhesive strips) on the backs of the pads, or applying "noise suppression compound" on the backs of the pads to dampen vibrations. Additional steps that can be taken to eliminate noise are to resurface the rotors and replace the pads. Some brands of semi-metallic pads are inherently noisier than others because of the ingredients used in the manufacture of the friction material. Strange as it may sound (pardon the pun), cheaper pads are sometimes quieter than premium quality or original equipment pads. That's because the cheaper pads contain softer materials that do not wear as well. For that reason, they are not recommended. Premium quality pads should cause no noise problems when installed properly and will give you better brake performance and longer life. Conditions that can contribute to a disc brake noise problem include glazed or worn rotors, too rough a finish on resurfaced rotors, loose brake pads, missing pad insulators, shims, springs or anti-rattle clips, rusty or corroded caliper mounts, worn caliper mounts, and loose caliper mounting hardware. Drum noise may be due to loose or broken parts inside the drum. Most experts recommend new caliper and drum hardware when the brakes are relined, a thorough inspection of the calipers and rotors for any wear or other conditions that might have an adverse affect on noise or brake performance, and resurfacing the rotors (and drums) if the surfaces are not smooth, flat and parallel. If you hear metallic scraping noises, on the other hand, it usually means your brake linings are worn out and need to be replaced -- especially if your brake pedal feels low or if you've noticed any change in the way your vehicle brakes (it pulls to one side when braking, it requires more pedal effort, etc.). Some brake pads have built-in "wear sensors" that produce a scraping or squealing noise when the pads become worn. In any event, noisy brakes should always be inspected to determine whether or not there's a problem. And don't delay! If the pads have worn down to the point where metal-to-metal contact is occurring, your vehicle may not be able to stop safely, and you may score the rotors or drums to the point where they have to be replaced. 

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Ken Haskett

2002-11-01 15:46:00

:  What is the difference between a direct repair shop (one referred by the insurance company) and a non-referenced shop?

ANSWER:  A direct-repair shop is tied directly to the insurance company. There is generally no need for three estimates, as the insurance company will work with the shop's estimate. This generally means less hassle for the customer. At times, at a non-referenced shop, the customer becomes the go-between for the insurance company and the body shop. Insurance companies are more familiar with their direct-repair facilities and are more comfortable working with them. In order for a body shop to achieve direct repair status there are guidelines the insurance company requires the shop to maintain. These are standards for customer satisfaction, equipment, and quality repairs.While a direct-repair facility is on the whole more convenient for the customer, it must be mentioned that in a larger sense, the main customer is the insurance company. If you are going to a body shop ask yourself what they have to gain by taking care of you as a customer. In my opinion, a dealership body shop that is a direct-repair shop for your insurance is your best bet. While, like any direct-repair facility, they are interested in maintaining their relationship with the insurance companies they also have a great deal at stake in your satisfaction as a customer. At an independent body shop they only stand to lose you as a customer for collision repairs. The average person only uses a body shop approximately every seven years so they have much more to lose from the insurance company than you should there be a conflict. A dealership body shop, on the other hand, can lose you not only as a body shop customer, but they can lose your new and used car sales and service business as well. The dealership has a much higher stake in your satisfaction. Also, in the event of a conflict, at an independent facility your complaint can only go as high as the manager (usually the owner.) At a dealership, you can go from the manager, to the Parts and Service Director, to the General Manager, to the owner and even to the manufacturer. In the end, it is your decision who will repair your vehicle in the unhappy event of an accident. Always remember: it is your choice, and not the decision of your insurance company.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Wes Grimes

2002-10-01 12:36:00

:  How are tires made?

Wes Grimes Question:  How are tires made?Answer:  A tire is made up of several different components. The Bead Bundle - The bead is a loop of high-strength steel cable coated with rubber. It gives the tire the strength it needs to stay seated on the wheel rim and to handle the forces applied by tire mounting machines when the tires are installed on rims. The Body - The body is made up of several layers of different fabrics, called plies. The most common ply fabric is polyester cord. The cords in a radial tire run perpendicular to the tread. Some older tires used diagonal bias tires, tires in which the fabric ran at an angle to the tread. The plies are coated with rubber to help them bond with the other components and to seal in the air. A tire's strength is often described by the number of plies it has. Most car tires have two body plies. By comparison, large commercial jetliners often have tires with 30 or more plies. The Belts - In steel-belted radial tires, belts made from steel are used to reinforce the area under the tread. These belts provide puncture resistance and help the tire stay flat so that it makes the best contact with the road. Cap Plies - Some tires have cap plies, an extra layer or two of polyester fabric to help hold everything in place. These cap plies are not found on all tires; they are mostly used on tires with higher speed ratings to help all the components stay in place at high speeds. The Sidewall - The sidewall provides lateral stability for the tire, protects the body plies and helps keep the air from escaping. It may contain additional components to help increase the lateral stability. The Tread - The tread is made from a mixture of many different kinds of natural and synthetic rubbers. The tread and the sidewalls are extruded and cut to length. The tread is just smooth rubber at this point; it does not have the tread patterns that give the tire traction. Assembly - All of these components are assembled in the tire-building machine. This machine ensures that all of the components are in the correct location and then forms the tire into a shape and size fairly close to its finished dimensions. Tire assembly - At this point the tire has all of its pieces, but it's not held together very tightly, and it doesn't have any markings or tread patterns. This is called a green tire. The next step is to run the tire into a curing machine, which functions something like a waffle iron, molding in all of the markings and traction patterns. The heat also bonds all of the tire's components together. This is called vulcanizing. After a few finishing and inspection procedures, the tire is finished.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Wes Grimes

2002-09-01 09:13:00

:  My engine overheated. What caused this and what do I do about it?

Wes Grimes Question:  My engine overheated. What caused this and what do I do about it?Answer:  Overheating is caused by anything that leads to a loss of coolant, prevents the cooling system from getting rid of heat, or causes excess heat in the engine itself: -Coolant leaks (water pump, radiator, heater core, hoses, freeze plugs, head gasket, engine internal). -Weak radiator cap (does not hold rated pressure and allows coolant to boil over). Pressure test the cap to check it out. -Cooling system clogged (deposits built up in radiator or in engine due to maintenance neglect or use of hard water). Use a cleaner, then reverse flush the system to clean it out. A badly-clogged radiator may need to be rodded out or replaced. -Thermostat stuck shut. Replace the thermostat. -Inoperative electric cooling fan. Check fan motor, relay and temperature switch for correct operation. -Bad fan clutch. Replace if it is slipping, leaking, or loose. -Missing fan shroud (reduces cooling efficiency of fan). -Slipping fan belt. Tighten or replace the belt. -Too low or too high a concentration of antifreeze. It should be a 50/50 mix with clean water for best cooling. -Bad water pump (impeller eroded or loose). Replace pump. -Collapsed radiator hose. Check the lower hose. -Debris in the radiator. Remove bugs and dirt. -Late ignition timing. Reset to vehicle specs. -Restricted exhaust system. Check intake vacuum readings and inspect converter, muffler, and pipes. -Radiator and/or fan undersized for application. Increase cooling power by installing larger radiator and/or auxiliary cooling fan.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Ken Haskett

2002-08-01 10:34:00

:  How can I avoid getting ‘roped off’ when I take my car in for service or repair?

Question:  How can I avoid getting ‘roped off’ when I take my car in for service or repair?Answer:  The most important part of avoiding rip-offs on car repairs is deciding where to take your vehicle in the first place. Consider these questions:1. "How competent are the technicians that will be working on my car?" Don't be afraid to ask about the training of the technicians. These days, cars are more complicated than ever before. Many shops require their technicians to be ASE (National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence) certified, but that does not mean the techs are kept up to date on the latest repair techniques. Does your shop have access to the latest service bulletins from the factory? Are the techs required to take ongoing training? Is the mechanic working on my transmission (for instance) certified to work on transmissions? At the very least, any shop should have a shop foreman who is oversees repairs that is knowledgeable on all aspects of vehicle repairs. Dealerships are required by most manufacturers to maintain an overall shop competency. This means that a certain number of techs must be factory certified in certain areas of repair. This does not mean, however, that the tech working on your car will be certified; only that on the whole the techs have gone through factory training. Factory certification is certainly a level above ASE, but it is expensive and requires the tech to spend a great deal of time outside the shop in classrooms. Dealerships accept this expense at varying degrees. Don't be afraid to ask a shop about their training budget.2. "What kind of equipment does the shop have to diagnose and repair my vehicle properly?" Even the best techs cannot overcome the lack of proper equipment. Again, this is often a question of what a repair facility is willing to spend. Asking about equipment is a good indication of how committed any shop is to fixing your vehicle right the first time. Again, dealerships are required by the manufacturers to own certain equipment, but this is usually only a bare minimum of what is required of today's complex vehicles.3. "What kind of reputation does this facility have, and what motive do they have to ensure my satisfaction?" Ask how long a repair facility has been in business. How important is it for them to maintain a long-term relationship with you as a consumer. I personally tend to shy away from specialty shops, such as transmission-only facilities. There are many fine shops out there that specialize in one or two areas, but facilities that offer a wide range of services have much more at stake when it comes to your return business. Someone who hopes to do business with you in the future has more to lose than someone who will likely only be doing business with you this once.  4. "How well do I know these people?" The best time to choose a repair shop is before you need one. If at all possible, consider doing your regular maintenance at a place that is capable of satisfying your other automotive needs should they arise. Should any problems occur, you will already know someone to talk to first.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Wes Grimes

2002-08-01 10:09:00

: Why do front-wheel drive cars and minivans have CV joints instead of ordinary U-joints?

Wes Grimes Question: Why do front-wheel drive cars and minivans have CV joints instead of ordinary U-joints? Answer:  U-joints are not used with front-wheel drive (FWD) because they produce cyclic vibrations when operated at more than a few degrees off-center. A U-joint will cause a change in speed between the driving and driven shafts whenever the joint operates at an angle. As the operating angle of the joint increases, the speed (velocity) of the driven shaft starts to vary during each revolution. And the greater the operating angle, the greater the variation in speed of the driven shaft. The driven shaft still turns at the same number of revolutions per minute as the shaft that's driving it, but because of the geometry of the U-joint the speed of the driven shaft alternately increases (accelerates) and decreases (decelerates) four times every revolution -- which causes the vibrations we're talking about. This isn't a concern in a rear-wheel drive application because the U-joints on the ends of the driveshaft are positioned 180 degrees to one another to cancel out vibrations. What's more, both U-joints always operate at the same angle. But in a front-wheel drive application, the outer joint may have to operate at an angle of up to 45 degrees when the wheels are steered. This is too much of a difference between the inner and outer joints angles for U-joints to handle. So constant velocity (CV) joints are required. Unlike a U-joint, a CV joint always drives the output shaft at the same speed as the input shaft regardless of the operating angle of the joint. Therefore, it doesn't make any difference if the inner and outer joints operate at different angles. JOINT GEOMETRY In a U-joint, the four-point center cross attaches at two points on either yoke. When the joint is bent, two of the arms on the center cross travel in one elliptical path while the other two arms follow a different elliptical path. This is what causes the speed variations that result in vibration. It's hard to visualize, but that's what happens. CV joints handle joint angularity differently. The six balls inside a "Rzeppa" style CV joint are positioned so they always travel in a circular path exactly half way between the joint angle. A circular path keeps velocity constant while an elliptical path causes changes in velocity. So that's the inside scoop on why U-joints won't work in FWD applications.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Wes Grimes

2002-07-01 15:42:00

Question:  Why should I rotate my tires?

Answer:  If you never rotate your tires, the fronts will last about 10,000 to 20,000 miles and the rears will last 50,000 to 80,000 miles. The reason you rotate tires is to even out the wear.  Properly done, all the tires will be worn out at the same time. It's also a great excuse to inspect your brakes on a regular basis.The front tires will wear the outside edge because the tire leans over when you turn a corner. Slight outside edge wear that appears to be the same on both front tires is no reason to be alarmed. If you find one of the front tires has significantly more wear than the other, then there is cause for alarm. The rear tires just follow the fronts so their wear is minimal.It is very important to rotate your tires every 6,000 to 7,500 miles. Three things should occur during a tire rotation. First, all the tires should be properly inflated. Second, the tires should be rotated. Third, a physical inspection of the brakes should be made while the tires are off. It makes no sense to pay to have your brakes checked, then 3 months later pay to have your tires rotated.A lot has been written about the proper way to rotate tires. The biggest portion of the discussion is whether or not it is OK to change the direction of the rotation of the tire. If a tire is moved to the other side of the car, the direction of rotation has been changed. Years ago that was a no-no but now many tire makers recommend the crisscross way.Different tire manufacturers may suggest different ways and if you want to be entirely correct, check with the maker of your tires. You may rotate straight forward and straight back or you can crisscross the fronts and/or the backs before you rotate. If the tire is scalloped and causing a whine or hum at higher speeds, we will change the direction of rotation to help even out the wear.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Dawson Grimsley

2002-01-01 14:20:00

Question:  What is the best procedure for buying a new car? It seems like it’s such a challenge any more. Are there any ways to make it more enjoyable?

Answer:  The most important thing for you to do when buying a car is to know your budget going in.  How much can you afford?  How much do you really want to spend?  Then, find a car you like that fits your budget.And DO NOT - I repeat, DO NOT - let anyone hurry  you into making a snap decision.Make sure you compare apples to apples when car shopping.  If you have a vehicle to trade-in, make sure you know what you¹re being allowed on your trade.   Don¹t let the dealer mark the new car way up in order to show you more money for your trade.  The figure you need to be concerned with is the ‘trade difference’.  Always remember:  If you have a trade, the balance you owe on it  will be added to the trade difference.  When dealers say they’ll pay off your trade, no matter what you owe, they will!  They¹ll add it to your balance on the car you¹re buying.Be up front with the dealer.  Tell them what you¹re trying to accomplish.  And deal with a trustworthy dealer.  If you wonder about their business practices, call the Better Business Bureau, or the District Attorney¹s Consumer Fraud Division - and ask when kind of reputation the dealer has. Buying a car can be fun... and it should be fun.  But if you find yourself in a situation you¹re not comfortable with, you are always within your rights to leave and go somewhere else with your business.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Dawson Grimsley

2001-12-01 16:06:00

Question: We are in the market for a different car. The new ones seem so high when we look at some pre-owned ones, however the mileage scares us. It seems like cars are built today to run longer without problems than they used to be. Is there any kind of consumer information regarding what mileage things begin to happen?

Answer:  It¹s a fact that cars are made better today than they were in the past, and manufacturer¹s warranty claims have decreased, across the board. However, there is no information available regarding an 'average' mileage at which problems start to occur, because so much depends on the vehicle, and how it is maintained.In my opinion, there are 2 extremely important things you can do when buying a used vehicle. 1) Have it checked out thoroughly before making the purchase. 2) Purchase an extended warranty to protect yourself against surprises. The reliability of a used car will depend on the car itself, as well as the care and upkeep it was given by the previous owner(s). If at all possible, try to talk with the previous owner, and ask what kind of service the vehicle received while they owned it.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Dawson Grimsley

2001-10-01 09:51:00

Question: I own my own small business. I am the only employee. I need to change cars. What are the advantages of buying versus leasing?

Answer:  These days, when you consider the cost of new vehicles and how they hold their value if they¹re well cared for, buying instead of leasing makes a lot of sense. However, if you know going in that you¹re going to be putting more than 12,000-15,000 miles on the vehicle annually, your monthly lease payments could be very high. Worse yet, if you don¹t anticipate putting a lot of miles on the vehicle, but end up going considerably over your mileage allowance, you could be hit with some very high costs when it comes time to turn the vehicle back in.There are however advantages to leasing: For instance, if you know you won¹t be putting more than 12,000-15,000 miles on the vehicle each year, and the vehicle you want is expensive, leasing could definitely help keep your monthly payment down.When it comes to buying versus leasing, my advice is to check with your accountant, who should know your particular financial situation. And, take good care of your vehicle. Whether you buy or lease, how well you care for your vehicle will ultimately determine its true value.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Dawson Grimsley

2001-09-01 11:37:00

Question:  Recently we heard about used cars arriving at dealers' lots in the Wichita area from places that flooded in Texas.  I'm sure enough ruckus was raised that most car buyers checked before they bought.  However, this is one of the few times I can remember being alerted to something like this. I would have to believe that there are cars that were damaged somewhere by something that arrive at used car dealers all the time.  How can a car buyer know the history of the car?  What assurances does a buyer have of getting an acceptable vehicle?

Answer:  When buying a used car, always ask the dealer or individual selling the car where the car is from - and insist on getting a ‘car fax’ on the vehicle, which will give its complete title history from the time it was new to the present.  When buying a car from an individual, the buyer is responsible for obtaining the ‘car fax’, which can be requested via http://www.carfaxonline.com/. A fee will be charged for this service.Always be extremely careful when buying a vehicle from an individual.  Ask to see the title, and look it over carefully for any kind of disclosure, such as a ³branded title² (previous non-highway title).  This indicates that at sometime in the life of the vehicle, it has incurred major damage that has since been fixed.  A branded title depreciates the value of the average vehicle by 30% - and can depreciate its value by as much as 70%!   Quite often, these ³individuals² are really shady car dealers who sell through newspaper classified ads and try to rip off unsuspecting car buyers.  So - buy from someone you know, or from a reputable dealer who is required by law to back up what he sells. Last but not least, don¹t get in a rush to buy.  Don¹t let the seller force you into making a quick decision before you¹ve done your homework.  Don¹t buy any used vehicle until you¹ve had it checked out by an uninvolved third party, such as another dealership, or your family mechanic.  Finding out about mechanical problems, or previous hail, flood or collision damage can keep you from making a big mistake.  And despite what you may have heard in the news, a vehicle that¹s been in a recent flood might not show signs of rust damage yet, but a good mechanic will still be able to tell that the car has suffered water damage.At our dealership, every used vehicle we sell has been checked over from stem to stern, and undergone a 101 point safety inspection.  Even so, we always encourage our customers to take the vehicle elsewhere to have it inspected mechanically and cosmetically.  This is a safeguard for both us and the customer.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Dawson Grimsley

2001-07-01 12:31:00

Question:  I am a single female. I bought a used car from a dealer a couple of months ago. This dealer does not have a service department. When I need auto service in the future, what are some of the things I should check before selecting what service shop I use?

Answer:  Deciding where to take a vehicle for service and repair is a decision that must be made carefully.  We suggest you start by asking friends, or someone you trust, for referrals.  It's also a good idea to check with a dealership that sells and services the brand of vehicle that needs servicing - because each manufacturer has engineering that is unique to the vehicles they make.When you contact the service department, ask if their technicians are A.S.E.  certified (Institute for Automotive Service Excellence), how many factory Master Techs they have, and how long the company has been in business.  You should also be able to get a feel for the service department by the cleanliness of the facility and the employees.  And ask the service rep how long he or she has been working there.  A business that retains their employees is able to offer more experience in customer relations, and a better record of repairing vehicles right the first time.Vehicle manufacturers are starting to reward dealerships for excellence in customer satisfaction - through programs such as Daimler Chrysler's Five Star and Lincoln Premier.  Ask the service department whether or not they have received any recognition of this type from the manufacturer, or any public recognition for having good business practices.Most dealership service departments aren't any more expensive than independent shops.  And going to a manufacturer's service department has many benefits.  First, they are able to offer factory training for their technicians.  They also have the proper factory tools to do the job correctly, factory publications for their employees, and factory parts.Other things you might want to check are the local Better Business Bureau, and the company's web site.  And no matter where you decide to take your vehicle, make sure you get an estimate for service and repairs before any work is done.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Brad Train

1969-12-31 18:00:00

Question: What exactly is a Hybrid Car?

Answer: A hybrid car is a vehicle that uses a combination of at least two different fuel sources for its propulsion. Many combinations are possible, and generally when people are talking about hybrid cars, they are referring to cars with a combination of:• a gasoline internal combustion engine • an electric motor• a battery that powers the electric motor and stores energy for future use The cleanest and most efficient energy source is electricity. That's why, since the turn of the century, engineers and entrepreneurs have attempted to develop a practical electric automobile. The results to date have found that an electric car can do the job but it won't get you far. Getting the power on the road is not the problem, but as of yet no one has created a successful, lightweight, compact battery that is capable of covering average driving distances without recharging from a stationary source.If there's one great hope for the future it may be the fuel cell, which combines hydrogen and oxygen to create electricity. The only exhaust a fuel cell produces is water. Demands for clean air plus a need for reduced oil consumption have caused some automakers, particularly in Japan, to look for an interim solution. Thus was born the hybrid. In simplest terms, a hybrid combines a gasoline engine and an electric motor to provide adequate power with minimal fuel usage and low emissions. Hybrids do not need to be plugged into an electric outlet in order to be recharged. They charge themselves by using energy normally lost during coasting and braking, and can also be charged by the car's gasoline engine. The advantage is that the gasoline engine can then be quite small, since power is obtained from not one but two sources. When you consider that at highway speeds the average car requires only 20 horsepower to keep it running, a large gasoline engine makes little sense except for pulling heavy loads.Driving a hybrid is like any other car except for one thing. When the car is stopped for more than a few seconds, the gasoline engine is shut down automatically. This can be a little eerie at first, as you find yourself sitting in silence. But step on the accelerator and the electric motor gets the car underway until the gas engine cuts in. There is no starter in the conventional sense, since one isn't needed. And, due to their special use of technology, hybrid cars receive much higher gas mileage than the average U.S. vehicle. Hybrid cars hold the top spots for fuel economy in their respective categories: two-seaters, compact cars and mid-size cars.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Nate Evans

1969-12-31 18:00:00

Question: I am in the market for a car, and like most everyone, want to make the most environmentally friendly choice that I can, so Hybrids are high on my list. However, I am finding that there are several kinds of them and may or may not be as fuel efficient as their counterparts. What exactly qualifies as a hybrid? Can you give me a simple, quick breakdown to cut through the mire for me?

Answer: Basically, a hybrid electric vehicle combines an internal combustion engine and an electric motor powered by batteries, merging the best features of today’s combustion engine cars and electric vehicles. The combination cuts down on fuel use by improving performance. Additionally, the limitation in distance of electric vehicles is overcome by the support of the gasoline-fueled combustion engine. This hybridization generally provides the ability to drive 500 miles or more using less fuel and never having to plug in for recharging. There are four types of Hybrids: Mild, Full, Plug-in and Muscle. •Both Mild and Muscle Hybrids shut off engines at stop lights, uses regenerative breaking and operates above 60 volts, and sues an electric motor to assist a conventional engine. Muscle hybrid might additionally be able to drive using only electric and be able to be plugged in. •Both a Full and Plug-in Hybrids shut off engines at stop lights, uses regenerative breaking and operates above 60 volts, uses an electric motor to assist a conventional engine and is able to drive using only electric. Plug-ins, are able to be plugged in. Even with this technology, the only way to evaluate the impact it will have on the environment or if it will be a savings to you is by comparing fuel economy and emissions.

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Cars, Trucks, Vans & Automotive

Brad Train

1969-12-31 18:00:00

Question: Is there a method to help me figure out if my budget will allow me to purchase a new car?

Answer: It's easy to overspend on a new car, but there are ways to avoid 'busting' your budget. Have you established your budget? It's always a good idea to start the car-buying process with a budget planning session to help you determine how much car your money can buy, how much money you feel comfortable about spending. A new car purchase is typically the largest consumer purchase after a house. It's all too easy to buy a car you really can't afford. By overextending yourself for the sake of a new car you face more than just giving up vacations or nights out on the town. You could be putting your financial security at risk. New car owners may experience "buyer's remorse" after purchasing, because they've allowed their emotions to control their spending. All too often, emotions overrule logic and people get into trouble. If you can't afford it, don't buy the car! Just because you've qualified for a certain loan amount, it doesn't necessarily mean that you can afford to pay that amount. Qualifying for a loan simply means you have satisfied the bank's or other lender's concerns about your financial means to repay. Lending institutions use mathematical formulas to determine your repayment capabilities. Some lenders use an applicant's credit report as the basis for their figuring, while others use an applicant's debt-to-income ratio. The two methods can produce different results. Qualifications based on your credit report will present you with an idea of the amount you're willing to pay, while qualification based on debt-to-income ratio will tell you what you're able to pay. You can obtain a copy of your credit report from any or all of the three national credit-reporting agencies. If your installment debts consist entirely of amounts owed to large lenders such as major credit card companies, banks, or automobile finance companies, you may only need to obtain a report from a single agency. (It's a good idea to review your credit report every year or so even if you’re not in the buying mode.) Use these tools to help with your new car purchase: establish a budget, shop within that budget, and use your head not your heart to guide you. This purchase might not be the car of your dreams, but with proper planning, it won't become the car in your nightmares!