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Home Improvement

Roland Dalrymple

2013-06-25 09:04:54

Q-We really want to redo our flooring, but the cost of materials, installation, and the potential cost involved in fixing any subflooring rather makes me want to shy away from the project. Affordability is a big issue, but I do not want it to look "cheap" either. What would be the simplest and most affordable option?

A-Yes, I understand your concerns. New flooring can be a big project, and many people are wary of lifting a floor to find damage that will require extra time and money to repair. Other concerns might be having to be tied down to a certain color or design once it is chosen. Fortunately, technology has provided us with some amazing new options. One of the options that fits your criteria is an exciting new product called fiber flooring. Fiber flooring is fiberglass backed vinyl which offers all of the advantages of vinyl, with some added benefits that answer common objections to redoing floors. Like traditional vinyl flooring options, fiber flooring is very affordable, but much more durable, making it a good option for homes with children or for those who want to be able to change flooring more frequently. It also comes in a huge array of choices. Patterns include everything from child friendly designs for bedroom or playrooms (even some with cool glow in the dark designs) to modern and sophisticated styles in rich metallic hues. Really, the options are so wide that you could find something to fit any décor. Another plus is that fiber flooring is easy to install and has a glueless application. Installation is easy because it has the flexibility of carpet and is able to be fitted easily and securely. If you grow tired of it, simply pull it up. This makes it a good option for renters too. Overall, for durability, price, beauty, and choices, Fiber floors are worth your consideration.

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Home Improvement

Roland Dalrymple

2013-05-29 11:43:42

Q-I want to have my kitchen redone soon and want a very custom look. I was considering wood flooring because I like the look, but I am not crazy about the upkeep, especially with kids. Do you have any ideas?

A-There are many, many options in kitchen flooring, and I am sure you will find one that will complete your custom look. The first thing that comes to mind is the wood-look ceramic tile. Wood is always a popular choice and favored for its clean, organic beauty. The downside of wood flooring in the kitchen is of course, the water. One busted pipe, leaky refrigerator, or overflowing dishwasher can ruin or warp the loveliness right out of them. Wood-look ceramic tiles are a beautiful and hassle free solution. The tiles come in a wide variety of colors and look masterfully like the real deal. You can achieve the same look and configurations as you can with regular wood plank flooring such as the chevron pattern which adds that custom look you mentioned. Depending on the style of your home and kitchen, terra-cotta tile is another great option. The beautiful natural variations in the tile provide an effortless custom look. Since it is a natural material, it has an inherent warmth about it that many people love. Another earthy choice in tile is flagstone tile. Not only does it highlight a custom kitchen, it is also highly durable and easily cleaned with a gentle soap and water. If your style leans more toward the elegant, consider marble. Marble has natural variations and provides the beauty of custom individuality even without a complex tile design layout. Talk to a flooring expert to find out what patterns and configurations are suitable for each particular tile. This may help you narrow down your options. If you have questions, feel free to contact us.

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Home Improvement

Bob Crager

2013-05-29 10:49:55

Q-What kind of commercial glass doors should I consider using for my new business building?

A-Let’s talk for a little bit about the things that are going to be important to you and your business going forward. Things such as the physical aesthetic appearance…which is the look of the business that the customer gets as a first impression of who and what you and your business are trying to project to them. Is security an issue for you? It certainly is for most businesses. Do you need light or heavy security, during what hours of the day? Are you a 24-7 business, or do you have “open” hours, and then remain closed during the rest of the day or night? Do you have “walk-in” trade, or are you an office/warehouse facility? All of these questions, and some others, should enter into your plan for the entrance of your new facility! Even if you have little or no “foot traffic” trade, you probably have ‘drive-by’ trade. Even people driving past your facility will develop some idea about who you are from what they see at your entrance to the business. Will you have an outside “lobby” arrangement, or will the customer walk directly into the interior of your retail or office rooms? If a lobby is in the plans, you’ll want to use some very high grade commercial glass & metal doors that are well designed and built to hold up in the face of all of the changing weather conditions and higher than normal winds experienced here in Kansas. Intense heat, and brutal cold will eventually take a toll of some kind on the most well built exterior doors and windows. If your new building is located in Kansas with considerations for the extremes of Kansas weather, the lobby will be, more than likely, heated and cooled to some degree, which will help to stabilize the temperatures of the metals and the glass, extending the useful life and durability of these fixtures. When your customers drive or walk up to the front of your building, is their first impression of your company important to you? There are many different designs, different combinations of materials that will assist in that first impression…tinted glass, Low-E coated glass, many different colors and shades of tint can give your customer a great feel for walking inside your front doors. Sometimes an “airlock” arrangement which controls the inflow and outflow of air is incorporated into the design. The direction the front doors face should be considered when deciding the answers to a lot of the pertinent questions about commercial doors for your new business building. There are commercial glass doors, commercial steel doors, impact commercial doors, roll-up commercial doors…an amazing list of choices for your consideration, all based upon your specific needs! The choice for your own business should be important to you if, for no other reason, you’ll be looking at your choices for quite a long period of time, and you don’t want to feel bad every time you see it because you tried to cut a corner when you installed whatever you installed. In Commercial windows and doors, it’s pretty important not to try to save money by cutting corners in these areas, unless there are no other choices for you. Some recommendations that might help you with your decisions are: Choose the strongest, most secure commercial doors for the exterior doors. The material make-up of a commercial door will impact the level of security it can provide, as well as the maintenance and upkeep it will require. Commercial steel doors offer the most security, but many business owners find wood doors and commercial glass doors more aesthetically pleasing, depending on the particular individual application. From security and ease of access to aesthetics and first impressions, interior and exterior commercial doors play an important role in the success of most business operations. Remember, commercial doors not only provide the public’s first impression of your business, but they also serve such purposes as managing traffic flow, securing work environments, and climate control. Automatic sliding commercial doors provide ease of access for the needs of some businesses. Consider the benefits of automatic sliding commercial doors in environments where customers have to push shopping carts, or carry items inside and out. Automatic doors also cater well to handicapped patrons. Revolving or automatic sliding doors can help keep your lobby climate controlled and can also help with the control of foot traffic by limiting the number of people entering the building at once. Commonly used in the restaurant industry, impact commercial doors can swing both ways to allow traffic to flow in and out easily. These swinging doors also make a good choice as commercial entry doors for loading docks. There are about as many different choices for commercial glass doors as there are designs of new buildings. If you have a chance to do it from scratch, do it right the first time. If you’re retrofitting the entrance area of an existing building, you can pick and choose from a wide array of materials, glass and metal, wood, and many more. A short sit-down meeting with your local glass dealer who specializes in commercial doors and windows might just be a good first step, and could take the brain damage out of the process for you. Some information was researched from the worldwide web…More next month…

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Home Improvement

Roland Dalrymple

2013-04-30 08:57:05

Q-I am going to have my 1960's bathroom remodeled. Although I am not sure of what design direction I am headed, I know that I want to consider every option in tile, not just common ones. Do you have thoughts on bathroom tile?

A-The market offers an astounding number of options in tiles and floor coverings for bathrooms. Naturally, porcelain, ceramic, and vinyl come to mind first as they are most practical in the high moisture environment. However, there are plenty of additional options that will work well with extra care. Vinyl tiles are probably one of the most common choices. They are affordable, can take the conditions, come in a wide variety, and are easily replaced. Another advantage of vinyl tile is that it is softer and provides an element of added safety. While common, you can satisfy your creative spark by choosing tiles that have an interesting pattern or color. Ceramic and porcelain tiles also come to mind as a great option for the bathroom. These tiles are popular for their beauty and easy maintenance. They are a bit more expensive than vinyl but you can find them in just about any color, style or pattern imaginable. If you love natural materials, you can even find lookalike tiles in mock stone and wood. Linoleum is another very popular option. Today, one of the most popular options is the wood plank look that clicks in place. It is beautiful and durable, but it does come at a price at around $4 a square foot. Depending on where you want the tiles, glass might be another good choice. When textured, they resist slipping and of course, they are easy to clean. They come in various colors and you can achieve some amazing effects. You can even find art glass tiles to work in to your design! One option you may have discounted is cork. While standing water can create some problems, cork is actually pretty durable. With the right care, it can work in a bathroom. Wood, while typically not used in bathrooms, is also a possibility. This option works best in a lower traffic bathroom that will not see as much moisture. Lastly, stone is another great option, especially if you love the spa appeal. Send pictures of your project. We'd love to see.

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Home Improvement

Bob Crager

2013-04-29 13:25:40

Q-We’re getting ready to head out for the open roads on several mini vacations in our motor home as we always do in the summer months. In getting ready, we noticed that over the winter in storage we’ve developed a crack all the way across our windshield, and problems with some side windows leaking and rolling up and down. What should we do about that, and what is the estimated time frame for repairs?

A-This kind of a question surfaces year round, not just in the springtime. Look at your exact situation to determine the time frame for completing the particular repairs or replacements. There are a substantial number of “snow birds” in the Wichita area, folks who head south during the winter months into warmer climates and actually live down there in their motor homes for the duration of the “colder weather”. The good news is that the motor home windshield needed for your cracked one is nearly always still available, whether it’s a new one, near new motor home, or one that’s been over the roads with you for several years. It’s important, as you are probably aware, that you not drive that unit with an obstruction or visual problem for the driver or take a chance of being unintentionally in violation of the law with the police or state patrol in whichever state you’re moving through. The laws are usually different, one from the other, pertaining to this. As time goes by, there are different ways that windows in motor homes and travel trailers can get cracked and broken, and need repairs. Leakage, both water and wind, occur in both older, as well as newer units. Wind noise can drive you right off the road, and temporary insanity can result. Seriously, water leaks need your immediate attention as soon as you can discover that they’re there. Unattended, those will begin to rapidly deteriorate the materials inside those wall sections of the motor home. That’s not a pretty discovery later on. A good habit to get into is that when it rains, just do an inspection of your windows all the way around, inside and out, and you’ll probably catch those pesky leak problems early before they turn into something more, like electrical wiring problems inside the walls. Most of the windows in motor homes and travel trailers are specialty windows designed for that particular line of vehicles. If you have one of the motor homes that has some of the more involved antique glass patterns, you really want to try to get those replaced or repaired by professional techs who do that kind of installation as a regular part of their business, as soon as possible. Many glass installers don’t have those antique glass patterns, so go ahead and do a little research before you actually need to repair or replace those windows. Otherwise, less than desirable results could be in the offing. Windshields for nearly all motor homes are normally available through a good glass shop, even if the original manufacturer of the motor home has gone out of business. Whether it’s the driver or passenger side that’s cracked, or both, the replacement of either or both is relatively common. Most of these windshields have some manner of tinting in the glass, so matching the original color is pretty important. The glass installation should, in all cases, be done by trained certified installation techs, using the correct sealants and trim materials, and make sure the shop doing your glass work is insurance approved. Custom van windows, side mirrors, windshields, and all manner of glass for heavy equipment and tractors are all repairable or replaceable. Sometimes the electric motors or the regulators go out on the windows, and those normally have to be replaced with new units. Occasionally the raising and lowering mechanism for the windows in all kinds of vehicles will break or loosen up inside the doors, requiring the disassembly of the door panels to accomplish the repair. Other than the periodic inspections of your unit’s windows when it rains, you’ll be in good hands with the right glass shop handling your repairs or replacements. The well equipped glass shop will have a facility that will allow your large motor home to be driven inside out of the weather for your repairs to be accomplished. There’s never a wrong day to get started with a shop that will work with your insurance company. The right glass shop will assure your complete approval of all work that they perform for you. Also, service technicians who specialize in all of the specialty glass work that might be required is important to the final outcome. More great information next month…

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Home Improvement

Roland Dalrymple

2013-03-25 15:48:59

Q-We are completely rehabbing an old farmhouse. One of the biggest issues is the wood flooring. Right now, we are wondering what type of finish we should consider. Do you have any recommendations? Thanks in advance for your advice.

A-When choosing a flooring finish, consider your lifestyle and maintenance preferences. Not all flooring finishes are the same, or have the same requirements. All wood floor and finishes will need routine sweeping or dust mopping, but which one you choose will have an impact on the long-term care and look of the flooring. First, you can choose from surface finishes. These are durable, water resistant, and require minimal care. Surface finishes are made from blends of synthetic resins and usually referred to as urethanes or polyurethanes. The types of surface finishes available include: * Water based finishes, which appear clear and resist yellowing over time. * Oil-based finishes, which appear amber in color, are durable, have a mild odor, and have an eight-hour drying time. * Acid-cured finishes, appear clear to slightly amber, dries in three hours, and are extremely durable. * Moisture-cured finishes, which have a strong odor at applications, dry in 3 hours in humid conditions, and are durable and more moisture resistant than most finishes. Wax finishes are another option. These soak into the pores of the wood and harden to form a protective covering. Wax finishes are durable but do show spots from water and other contaminates. Finally, here are acrylic impregnated finishes, which are injected into the wood to create a super-hard floor. This application is rarely used in residences and most appropriate for high-traffic commercial settings, such as malls. For most homes, surface finishes are the prefect choice for low maintenance, high durability, and beautiful results.

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Home Improvement

Bob Crager

2013-03-25 14:22:12

Q-With tornado season rearing its head again, and most homes not being “tornado proof”, how can I protect myself from flying glass in my home or office during a tornado?

A-If you’ve been watching the news lately, you’ve seen, as I have, that there are tornados developing in places where a tornado was a rare, if ever, occurrence in the past. Tornado Alley has begun to “spread out”. Having a shelter, or a safe room, built into your house can help you protect yourself and your family from injury or death caused by the dangerous forces of extreme winds. It can also relieve some of the anxiety created by the threat of an oncoming tornado season. Your question seems to be, should you consider building a shelter in your house to protect yourself and your family during a tornado or hurricane? The answer depends on your answers to several other important questions. Such as, do you live in what is considered a high risk area of the country for these storms, keeping the aforementioned topic in mind? How soon can you get to a safe shelter when you hear the sirens sound? And what level of safety do you want to provide for yourself and your family? Now is the best time to address those questions…not right after the sirens have sounded…agree? During any windstorm, such as a tornado, hurricane, cyclone, or even straight-line winds of high velocity, everyone is at risk from flying everything! Glass included! If that storm is powerful enough to blow houses away, it’s a pretty good bet that your windows, no matter how good they are, are going to break and blow out too. Flying glass and all the other debris in a windstorm can be, and many times is, very deadly. Standing on a street downtown in a high windstorm is not a good idea at all. Those high winds can break the windows out of high rise office buildings and shower the sidewalks below with a deadly rain of glass shards. Get inside immediately in that situation, before the glass starts falling. Generally, if you’re paying attention to the weather at all, you’ll have some idea that there’s “tornado trouble” brewing for some time before it actually is upon us. Take that warning seriously every time! You’ve all heard that if you don’t have a basement in your home, you should go to the middle of your home and get into a closet or a bathtub. I understand the logic of saying that…and getting more walls between you and the outdoors, but I still believe that you’re at very high risk of death or serious injury if you follow that instruction. I would only do that as a very last resort! High winds, whether twisting or moving across in a straight line can totally destroy, in many circumstances, most residential structures, and they’re especially deadly to inhabitants of mobile homes. That evidence is pretty clear, at least to me. Absent a basement, there are in-ground storm shelters available that can be installed in the floor of your garage, allowing you to get into them without going outside the house. Absent a garage, those same shelters can be installed right outside your back door allowing only a few steps from your door to the door on the shelter. That’s better, in my opinion, than staying inside the house in a bathtub or closet, hoping for the best. Very iffy. During a storm, if the winds get high enough to break or blow out your windows, the hope is that with today’s radar and weather technology, you’ve had sufficient warning to move yourself and your family to a safe shelter to wait it out. Most tornadoes move laterally across the terrain at around 20+ miles per hour and some of these monster storms even achieve a lateral speed of over 40 mph. Outrunning an erratic, fast moving tornado in a vehicle is risky at best. Many have tried, and many have failed to get away. One of the problems with that strategy is that nothing will prevent other funnels from dropping down right on top of you as you’re trying to drive away from the storms. Right now, while the weather is not threatening, it’s a good time to prepare in advance for what you and your family are going to do if that tornado siren sounds. If you’re at home or in your office or workplace when it happens, what’s the first thing you’re going to do? How much time do you have before it actually hits your home, office, or workplace? Where are the children and pets? Where is your spouse? In the absence of having thought out the answers to these and other questions, and then preparing a plan with each member of your family, you could end up with a terrible result from a windstorm. Flying glass and other debris can become a reality for you in just seconds. This is especially true if your home is located anywhere near “tornado alley”. As we alluded to earlier, tornados have been popping up in places not normally known for this particular type of windstorm. Ideally, if you have a basement, start now and prepare a room down there where there are no windows, and try to have this space where there are 2 or more concrete basement walls right around you, as in a corner. If this space is a small space with walls surrounding you, and is equipped with a steel door with multiple deadbolt locks to hold it closed, your chances of avoiding death or injury are much improved. Go ahead and put an axe and/or battery powered saw, some fresh water in plastic jugs, some non perishable foods, a cell phone, a battery powered radio or television, a simple school bell you can use to get attention, and anything else you can think of to allow you to be in a survival mode for the next several minutes or even hours until someone can get to you for rescue operations. If you decide to “put this preparatory planning stuff off”, rather than getting it done now, how will you feel at that moment, when the skies turn black as midnight, and that storm siren begins to wail? Now that’s a change in pressure, and I don’t mean of the barometric kind! There are some new, wind resistant type materials that are being sold for windows and doors in homes and businesses that can resist many of the day to day things that happen, and even some strong wind events, but if the wind is strong enough to cause debris such as cars and trucks, concrete or wood landscaping materials to go flying around you, it’s a good bet you’re going to need to think first of just living through it. Getting those windows replaced after the storm has passed you by will be a thought for another day…The good news is that the vast majority of homes have never seen a tornado or a hurricane, and hopefully, yours never will either…Your great full service local glass dealer can take care of any type of glass needs you may have at your house. And we’ll have more interesting stuff for you next month…

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Home Improvement

Bob Crager

2013-03-01 10:39:03

Q-Now that the 20th of March (the first day of Spring) is approaching, I remember that you wrote about some “get outside now before it gets hot” springtime home window and other repair recommendations sometime back…but I lost the paper. Can you repeat some of that for me and others who need to do some of that stuff now that springtime is finally going to officially be here this month?

A-Here in Kansas, I’ll say that this time of year is just about my favorite time, cause now I can get out there, with the sunshine and spring breezes blowing the frost on out of my way, and I can start touring around outside my home and other buildings to see what the harsh, or semi harsh, presence of winter this year has done to me. I really enjoy that first chance to get out and do something, after being “holed up” for several months. We didn’t have much snow or other moisture this year, but anything that stays out in the weather where there are cold spells followed by warmer periods, you’ll find that the surprises you’ll observe are usually in one of several forms. The first thing I like to do is start out by making a list of projects I need to take care of that have been necessitated by whatever the weather conditions have been throughout the most recent winter…even when there hasn’t been all that much cold weather or freezing rain and snow. Besides, I just feel more important when my wife sees me walking around outside with a clipboard! You might want to do something similar. We like to help our readers with tips that will benefit them during special times of the year. Times like the end of winter!! Here’s a reasonably good outline you can use for your springtime checklist: 1) Windows first! Warm weather is coming, and so are the bugs. Take a look at each window screen for damage, and repair or re-screen those as necessary. Shop vacuums work really well for cleaning out window tracks to keep those windows moving freely. While you’re at it, go ahead and clean the exterior glass and frames. You might need a razor blade scraper and some vinegar water mixture for that to get the best results. You can make an inexpensive home made mixture for cleaning glass as follows: Using just vinegar and water, you’ll add a half-cup of vinegar to one gallon of water. Or, for smaller jobs, add two tablespoons of vinegar to one quart of water. This makes a very good mixture for this purpose. For an Ammonia based cleaner, add a half cup of sudsy ammonia to a gallon of water, or for smaller jobs, add two tablespoons of sudsy ammonia to a quart of water. On tougher window stains, you can mix a half cup of sudsy ammonia, two cups of rubbing alcohol, and a teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent to a gallon of water. Mix that well, apply it to your glass with a spray bottle, and wipe it till it’s clean. This solution is good for use in the colder parts of the year, because it is less likely to freeze. Another good glass cleaning formula is to combine ammonia, vinegar, and cornstarch to make a good window cleaning solution. Do this by adding a half-cup of ammonia, a half-cup of white vinegar and two tablespoons of cornstarch to a gallon of water. During this cleaning process it is also a good time to check out the frames and sills on your windows for dry rot or wet rot. If you find either or both of these going on, you’ll want to correct it as soon as possible. That problem only gets worse with time. Repairs are normally cheaper than a replacement of all those windows. A great glass shop can advise you on the most affordable way to stop the damage and end the drain on your money, comfort, and the high cost of the energy lost through weak windows and frames. Single pane windows are one of your biggest sources of lost energy, costing you money each and every day! Get more glass now! And before painting your window frames, make certain you’ve done any and all caulking that needs to be done before painting. 2) Decks! Your wood decks take a beating during our cold, below freezing Kansas winters. Yes, even that treated lumber is susceptible to this kind of deterioration due to the weather conditions. Take the time to make a slow and thorough examination of your deck boards, railings, posts, stairs, and other structural members, and look for loose fasteners, cracks, dry rot, or other damage. Remove loose nails and replace them with weather-resistant deck screws that are made for that purpose. And I would also recommend that the screws you use be larger by a couple of sizes than just normal “deck screws”. Not longer necessarily, but thicker. They sell deck screws that are coated with a material that protects the screws for a lot longer from water and rust than zinc or hot dipped galvanized! But, just fyi, hammering loose nails back in won’t do you any good. They’ll just pop right back out again. Now is also the time to completely clean the deck. Rent a power washer if necessary, and then re-apply deck coatings. Those hours you’ll spend on your clean, well repaired, shady deck will be a great reward for the work you’ll do now in all these areas. If you have brick, concrete or stone patios or walkways, it’s good to go ahead and get them cleaned up from the winter debris. You can use a hose or that pressure washer you rented to accomplish this. Broken out grout or caulk should be redone right now to prevent more damage of the same kind. After re-caulking, seal with a good sealant product especially formulated for this use. Later you’ll look back and believe that was money and time well spent. 3) Fireplaces & Wood Stoves! You’ve enjoyed your wood stove or wood burning fireplace all winter, and now is a good time to empty the built up ashes. Use an airtight metal container that is approved for this use, until you know the ashes are completely cooled. Even if it's been a while since your last fire, the ashes can be a fire danger for a surprisingly long period of time. Now is also the time to check the condition of the fireplace, and make any necessary repairs. Clean doors and screens, clean fireplace tools, and check and repair the door seals and hardware. 4) Miscellaneous checks! Spring is a great time to check all of your exhaust fans, cooling fans and air conditioners. Check dampers for smooth operation. Remove interior fan covers, and wash in mild soapy water. Clean dust and debris from inside the fan unit using a shop vacuum – do not operate the fan with the cover removed. Check the roof or wall caps where the fan ducts terminate to make sure they are undamaged and well-sealed. Check the dryer vent hose and cap for damage or loose connections, and clean out lint buildup. Check outdoor central air conditioning units for damage or debris buildup. Clean and check window or wall air conditioners, especially the filters. If you utilize a portable or central humidifier during the winter to improve indoor moisture levels, now is a good time to clean it out. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for cleaning, disinfecting and de-scaling. Clean or replace filters as necessary. Now is also the time to replace furnace filters that have become choked with all those dust particles you see floating through the air when a “sun shaft” comes through the windows. This is especially important if you have central air conditioning or if you utilize your heating system's fan to circulate air during the summer. As soon as you're comfortable that the danger of winter freezing is over, and if you have no basement, you should remove foundation vent blocks or open vent covers to allow air circulation in the crawl spaces. While removing vent covers, check the grade level around the foundation vents – winter weather can move soil and create buildups or grade problems that will allow ground water to drain through the vents into the crawlspace, so re-grade your dirt as necessary. Remove outdoor faucet covers. Turn on the water supply to outdoor faucets if it's been shut off. Last but far from least, now is the time for your semi-annual checking of all smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. If you have an older furnace, that carbon monoxide detector can absolutely save your lives! Replace the batteries, writing the date you changed them out on the batteries themselves with a sharpie, because if you’re like me, you can’t remember when you changed them out last, and you want to make sure they are ready if you have a problem…test the unit’s operation…your life really could depend on it. Hopefully this list of projects will help you get organized with your outside work, and if it gets to the point that it’s interfering with your golf time, just call in an expert to assist you with the work. Remember, a great full service glass shop can help you with lots more than just your residential window glass! Automotive glass, motor home windows, Commercial glass windows and doors for businesses, mirrors, shower doors, French doors, table top glass, whether in town or out in the country! Some of the info was researched on the worldwide web…more next month…

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Home Improvement

Mike Gatschet

2013-02-01 10:04:35

Q-I’m getting older, what steps can I take now to ensure my home is safe for me to live in well into my golden years?

A-Now is the time to be making those home modifications to ensure you are comfortable living in your home. Is your home accessible to maneuver or even enter into safely and easily following an injury or any medical incident? According to AARP, 85% of Americans age 50+ want to remain in their current homes and communities for life. These are the places they have raised children and played with grandchildren, a home is where folks feel safe, secure and comfortable to maintain an independent lifestyle. However, studies also show that only 10% of those people surveyed feel they can remain in their home based on their current design. Some contractors have included services beyond what a traditional contractor has to offer. They provide a solution for those who have a need and desire to remain in their own home for a lifetime. You should find a contractor in the area who specializes in using Universal Design to modify your home for maximum accessibility due to changes from aging or disability. The staff may include Certified Aging in Place Specialists along with Certified Graduate Remodelers. Together, they will come up with the appropriate solutions to your home accessibility needs. People are living longer, more active lifestyles. It’s hard to imagine losing our independence simply because of the aging process. It is even more difficult to consider giving up our freedom because the home environment can no longer meet one’s needs. With the average minimum cost of a nursing home stay between $3500-5000 per month and assisted living in excess, it is wise to consider a home remodel, which can last a lifetime. Planning for the future is imperative. A custom home remodel can help you gain peace of mind that your house can be a home for life.

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Home Improvement

Roland Dalrymple

2013-01-02 16:02:20

Q-I just bought a small home and plan on updating everything, top to bottom. One of the things I would like to do is make it look larger in any way possible. Can you tell me if there are any flooring options that might give the home a larger feel and appearance?

A-What a wonderful opportunity for you! While you update your home, here are a few things you should consider. First, as a rule, you need to know that larger tiles and planks make a room look larger. While you are out in public spaces, take time to notice what they use in small commercial spaces. You will see for example, how large tiles can help make even a tiny powder room feel spacious. Next, you will want to avoid busy flooring patterns. The more a pattern breaks-up the visual flow, the smaller the room feels. Another option might be having the flooring installed diagonally. This is especially true in wood flooring options. Installing planks on the diagonal makes the room feel as if it continues on beyond the borders. Finally, consider the color choices in the flooring, and how they play with your paint color. Most often, a lighter color flooring makes the room appear larger. Before you commit to any flooring, I would look at some interior design magazines and pay careful attention to the flooring. Also, take time to discuss your options with a flooring expert. Flooring professionals have an extensive knowledge of techniques and products and will have many suggestions in making your home feel as spacious as possible. Quality Floor would like to wish everyone a Happy and Prosperous New Year!

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Home Improvement

Shellie Blevens

2013-01-02 14:46:16

Q-I need a home office space, but nearly every inch of our small home is taken up with kids and other uses. I am considering making my space in one of two spaces, on opposite walls. One space is under the stairs, which at its widest would fit a desk, but not have room for all of my equipment and books. The other is a small alcove, which would fit my desk and supplies but is much more visible from the front door and would make it look cluttered. Do you have any ideas for making this workable?

A-Since the spaces are across from one another, I would use both! You could use graduated sized shelving on wheels that you can pull out to expose your books and supplies and roll in to hide them under the shelf. The sides of the shelving would hide all the clutter and could provide visual interest. On the opposite wall, I would slip my desk in the small alcove, keeping out only what I absolutely need to use daily. To keep the space feeling like home and purposeful, I would use an upholstered chair at my desk, an eye catching lamp on the desk, and hang a statement piece on the wall above the desk. You can even use a beautiful ottoman for extra storage for your office essentials! If space permits, a pretty folding room divider could be placed outside this area to block the view of the desk from the front door. If you need more storage for small essentials, consider adding high corner shelving on both sides of the alcove, alternating something decorative with something functional every few shelves or so. Decorative baskets or containers work great for hiding small items on open shelving. With a little effort, you can have a beautiful fully functioning office that you can tuck away as needed.

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Home Improvement

Cris Keeter

2012-04-19 10:50:39

Q: I desperately need to replace the siding on my house. Can you please explain the advantages/disadvantages of using a cement fiber board over vinyl or wood siding?

A: Cement fiber board siding was developed by James Hardie Industries over a century ago. They discovered the process of its construction while researching building materials that could endure the wear and tear associated with severe climates, and Kansas qualifies for such conditions. Cement fiber board siding is very strong, and is resistant to fires, insects and decay. Cement fiber siding is extremely moldable, meaning that it can appear in an assortment of styles. Fiber cement board is available in several patterns including a simulated wood grain pattern. Other styles such as smooth or stucco appearances can also be found. Unlike vinyl siding, cement fiber board siding will need to be painted. But, unlike wood siding, fiber cement board absorbs paint in an enduring way. Cement fiber siding that is coated with a good, protective paint will likely never peel or chip. While the appearance can be every bit as lovely as wood siding alternatives, you save yourself the worry of serious problems such as water damage. The exterior walls of most homes can be covered with cement fiber, and in a lot of cases the soffit can be trimmed with the same cement fiber board as well. Weight is a minor concern with fiber cement products: they weigh about 1½ times what comparably sized composite wood products do. Other concerns relate to cutting fiber cement: cutting produces a fine dust with microscopic silica fibers, so personal protective equipment (respirator and goggles) are necessary. In addition, special tools are needed for cutting. A quick overview: Pros: • Considerably more fire-resistant than vinyl or wood siding • Imprinted designs imitate wood-grain remarkably well, even from close-up • Tougher, stronger than vinyl siding • Can be cost-effective when compared to a full-scale refurbishment of wood clapboard • Can be painted, thus giving homeowner more design choices Cons: • Cost. Fiber-cement is a little more expensive then vinyl siding • Slower installation time than vinyl (though faster than refurbishing wood siding) • Typically not a do-it-yourself job Most types of siding (and especially fiber-cement) should be installed by professionals.

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Home Improvement

Cris Keeter

2012-03-22 15:29:22

Q: What can I do to ensure the exterior of my home is ready to withstand the harsh Kansas spring weather?

A: Spring is here and now is the time to ensure the exterior structures of your home are in good condition with a detailed exterior home inspection. Several key areas to inspect on the exterior are the siding, brick or stone, windows and guttering. A thorough inspection may identify problem areas of your home. A little preventative maintenance may help protect your home from further damage and costly repairs. The guttering on your home is a very important part of protecting your investment. On average, there are thousands of gallons of rain water that are carried off of the roof of your home in Kansas every year. The guttering system channels this water from your roof and into the downspouts and away from your siding and homes foundation. If this is clogged, it can back up and cause damage to your fascia, soffits, wall framing and cause damage to your foundation and possible basement leaks. You may want to hire a professional to inspect the guttering for debris and possible cleaning. This will ensure the gutter system is draining properly. Inspect the inside and outside corners for cracks in the sealer and apply new if necessary. Make sure the downspouts are connected properly and drain into a splash block, downspout extension and solid surface if possible. The water needs to be carried away from the foundation if possible. Inspect the siding for cracks in the caulking and caulk as necessary. Look for deteriorated areas in the siding. This typically happens in areas around windows, doors, roof and siding intersections and areas that are low to the ground. Repair with a suitable wood filer if possible or replace the damaged panels if possible. Prime and repaint the repaired areas with a good quality color matched paint. Inspect the exterior paint for cracking, peeling or flaking. If these problems exist, you can try to scrape the affected areas, and touch up with primer and paint. If this is widespread around the home, you may have to consider a whole house paint project. Brick or stone is a very durable and maintenance free product for the exterior. Inspect the mortar for cracks and missing mortar. You can apply new mortar to the areas where the mortar is missing and mortar caulk to the cracks. Aluminum and vinyl siding needs to be inspected for cracked and missing caulking. You can apply new caulking as necessary. Clean the siding with an approved house wash using a pump sprayer to apply the house wash and following up with a pressure hose. If surface mold is on the siding, typically in shaded areas, add a little bleach to the house wash in the pump sprayer. Windows will require an interior and exterior inspection. Make sure the windows are operating correctly, and that all the proper weather stripping is in place. Look for deteriorated wood with the windows open, this will reveal areas on the windows that you cannot see from the exterior and an area that are susceptible to wood decay. Inspect the exterior of the windows for missing or cracked caulking, glazing putty that is missing or cracked. If they are wood, inspect the paint for cracks, flaking or peeling. Look for wood decay and soft spots. Apply new caulking to cracked or missing areas, including glazing putty that is cracked or missing. Some wood decay can be repaired with new wood, if the damage is extensive, a new window may be required. Apply primer and color matched paint to repaired areas. Look for broken or cracked glass. If this is all that is wrong with the window, a glazing company can replace the damaged glass without replacing the window.

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Home Improvement

Wess Galyon

2012-03-22 08:54:55

Q: What can you tell me about new home maintenance?

A: You’ve finally done it - you’ve just moved into your brand new home. The smell of fresh paint still permeates the air. You’re likely consumed with unpacking, setting up furnishings, rearranging, decorating - energized by the blank pallet you have to work with. But once you’ve signed the thick pile of closing documents, the moving trucks have left and everything is neatly in its place, what do you do next? It’s time to get a handle on the routine maintenance you’ll need to perform in order to ensure that you and your family live comfortably in your new home for years to come. Here’s some advice to get you started and help save money while you’re at it: •Maintaining a clean home ensures it lasts longer and works better. Dust and dirt, if allowed to accumulate, can harm the finishes on blinds, cabinets, countertops, floors, sinks, tubs, toilets, walls, tiles and other items. If dirt does accumulate, make sure to clean it with a substance that does not scratch or damage the finishes. •On the outside of your home, make sure that gutters and downspouts do not get clogged with leaves or other objects. The exterior of your house is built to withstand exposure to the elements, but a periodic cleaning will improve the appearance and, in many instances, prolong the life of siding and other exterior products. •When you bought your home, you probably received a warranty from the builder on workmanship and materials. This warranty applies to problems related to the construction of the home, but it does not apply to problems that arise because of failure to perform routine maintenance. For example, if your roof begins to leak after six months because of faulty workmanship, your warranty would cover that. If you develop a problem because water backed up in clogged gutters that you should have cleaned, the builder is not responsible for repairs. Also, some items, such as appliances, may be covered by manufacturers? warranties and are not the responsibility of the builder. •You should fully familiarize yourself with the terms of your warranty soon after you move into your home. With all the excitement surrounding a move into a new home, most people have little desire to curl up in front of the fireplace and read a legal document. Nonetheless, you should not wait to read your warranty until a problem arises. Set aside an hour to learn what your rights and responsibilities are from the outset. Additional Tips for Properly Maintaining Specific Systems in Your New Home Heating and Cooling Systems: •Late summer or early fall are the ideal time to do an annual inspection and cleaning of these systems. •Make sure you change the filters every three months. •Keeping your pilot light burning during the summer will help keep the furnace dry and prevent corrosion. •Registers help regulate the flow of air and maintain the desired temperature in your home. Keeping registers closed in rooms you don’t use will save on cooling/heating costs. •Using heat generating appliances in the evening and reducing the number of lights on will help keep the temperature down and save on costs during the summer. Plumbing: •Every member of your family should know where the intake valves are located. Label each one. •If any of your appliances develops a leak, inspect the drain trap. A partially clogged drain can cause overflow. Use a plunger or a plumber’s snake to unclog the drain. If you need to, use boiling water to help unclog a partially opened drain. Call a plumber if these techniques don’t work. •A worn washer, a loose part in a faucet or steam in a hot water pipe generally causes a noisy pipe. Do not hesitate to repair the noise because vibrations can follow the noise and lead to leaks. Driveways: •If you have an asphalt driveway, remove oil, gasoline and similar substances immediately with soapy water. •To avoid holes in your asphalt driveway, refrain from resting patio furniture or bicycle stands on it. •Do not burn anything on your driveway. •When winter weather produces ice and snow, remove it promptly and avoid gouging your pavement while chipping away at ice. •Use kitty litter or sand for traction on tough patches of ice. Thawing and freezing agents using salt and chemicals can damage concrete, brick, mortar and asphalt. Salt will kill grass, shrubs and trees as well - and wreaks havoc on leather-soled shoes. Gutters and Downspouts •Clear away leaves, tree limbs and other debris from gutters and downspouts. •Downspouts should be turned away from your home’s foundation. Every four to six years, paint gutters that are not made of aluminum or vinyl to help prevent rust.

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Home Improvement

Wess Galyon

2012-01-25 14:59:21

Q: What can one expect to see at the 2012 WABA Home Show?

A: The Wichita Area Builders Association (WABA) kicks off its annual Home Show event on Thursday, February 9, 2012 at Century II Convention Center. Home Show 2012 is the 58th show for WABA, and will feature over 275 different booths representing a wide variety of interior and exterior home products and services for virtually every aspect of a home, from floors to ceilings; Interiors and exteriors including: outdoor living, decorating and improving, constructing and remodeling and more. The show maintains its popularity because consumers know that they can see just about every home related product in one location, and while attending the Show can compare products and conduct research right there without feeling pressured. As we always say, “It’s the largest window shopping spree around.” The Wichita Area Builders Association is a Trade Association whose membership consists of builders and persons in allied trades, industries and professions. The primary objective of the association is to work toward providing quality, affordable housing and homeownership for the greatest number of people possible. The association strives to promote a better understanding between the industry and the general public in regard to housing issues and acts as a liaison between the building industry and all levels of government whose actions impact efforts to maintain housing affordability; promoting adherence to an industry adopted Code of Ethics and high professional standards and business priorities among its members to the mutual benefit of both the consumer and the housing industry as a whole. Home ownership strengthens the social fabric of the nation. By encouraging civic participation and involvement in schools and communities and inspiring the upkeep and improvement of the home, homeownership fosters good citizenship. Safe, decent and comfortable housing in general and homeownership in particular, are also a positive influence in children’s lives. Children of homeowners stay in school longer and are more likely to become productive citizens, according to a study by the University of Chicago. The benefits to children are even more pronounced among low-income households, the study found. The Home Show opens February 9th 2012 and runs through February 12th 2012 at Century II Convention Center. Check the ad in this publication for hours and admission costs. Remember, there is free parking and shuttle bus service from Lawrence Dumont Stadium. Whether you’re considering building, remodeling or redecorating, Home Show 2012 is the place to be!

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Home Improvement

Wess Galyon

2011-12-27 09:19:24

Q: What’s new at the 2012 Home Show?

A: Welcome to Home Show 2012….. The Wichita Area Builders Association is excited to bring to the people of the Greater Wichita and surrounding area Home Show 2012. This year’s “sold out” Show will feature over 275 of the finest exhibitors in the area and throughout the country; all poised to put their best foot forward for all that attend. From truly humble beginnings in 1954, the members of the Wichita Area Builders Association and other quality exhibitors have worked tirelessly together to grow the show, while improving the quality of it. Such efforts provide obvious benefits to exhibitors who display their products and services at the show, but the persons that attend realize the real benefits and that is difficult to put a dollar value on. The Builders Association promotes their Show as the largest composite showroom that anyone can visit at any one time during the year. Attendees can spend as little, or as much, time as they wish examining products or services on display, ask questions of representatives that are displaying their products, collect technical and informative information and discuss pricing and financing options based on their interest in a particular product or service. At the Home Show, the consumer is in charge and exhibitors are there to help you. In preparation for planning to attend the 58th Home Show, it will be helpful to you, to be aware of some of the highlights of this years Show: •Exhibits will be located through all three halls of the Century II Convention Center - Expo Hall, Convention Hall and Exhibition Hall. •Many informative seminars will be conducted in Seminar Room #101 - which is located off the Garden Lounge area. •Tickets to attend will be sold at the Expo Hall and Convention Hall entrances. •Child care will be made available starting Friday evening and running through Sunday evening. •The majority of building product and service exhibits are located in the Expo and Convention Halls. •The retail sales section of the Show featuring an array of products typically used in the home will be in Exhibition Hall. •Concession areas are located in convenient locations for everyone in attendance. •A Garden Lounge is located between Expo and Convention Halls so attendees can rest and relax if they so desire. •Numerous public information booths are located in the Exhibition Hall and staffed with City and County employees available to answer any questions attendees have about availability of public services individuals may have need of. •Security is provided at the Show at all times to keep the environment safe for both exhibitors and attendees alike. •Show staff from the Wichita Area Builders Association is available at all hours during the Show to answer questions and assist both exhibitors and the public with their needs. •Free parking is provided at Lawrence-Dumont Stadium and shuttle busses run continuously dropping attendees off at all ticket locations and returning them to the Stadium when they are ready to leave. •Many exhibitors offer Home Show specials or discounts during the Show, which is an added benefit to attendees. •The Show is informative, but is also a fun and relaxing place to be. While there may be other opportunities and ways to spend ones time, there is not a better place to be during Home Show 2012 than the Century II Convention Center February 9 - 12. See you at Home Show 2012…Wichita’s annual premier Show providing quality information to the people of greater Wichita and surrounding areas for 58-years.

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Home Improvement

Charlie Traffas

2011-05-01 15:19:00

Answer: That’s a great question and a great strategy. There’s more than one way for home values to go up and you’re on the right track. So often it takes so little to make a big difference in home value. Over the next several issues, I will give you a few tips. Some of these…for every dollar you spend…you can increase your home value by as much as $3 to $10 or more. Spend $1,000 and get your home value to go up by $3,000 to $10,000 or more. This will outperform most any market condition you can find. This month…your family living room… Here are some easy and most affordable tips to improve the value of your home by updating your family living room: Adding color: Adding color to a neutral room is the perfect way to give it an instant lift. Pick your color. Look around your living room, if it already has a hint of color (i.e. curtains, carpet, furniture, paintings, etc.), start to repeat it around the room. A soft shade such as Apple Mist is ideal to create a fresh relaxed scheme. Layer cushions: A sofa packed with cushions will give your family room a really cozy feel. Layer different designs, mixing checks with floral and co-ordinate the scheme by repeating some of the same fabrics used in the curtains. Don’t forget the accessories: Add in accessories in your chosen color around the room, such as ceramics, glassware, vases, lamps, etc. Create a scheme with contrast: Give a neutral living room a warm update by adding subtle hints of orange, earthy red and biscuit. Opt for two-tone cushions: Fabrics and cushions in contrasting earthy tones are essential for many schemes. Fill the sofa with a mixture of cushions and striped fabrics. They will work well with the curtains and blinds. Create a zoned area: A natural rug with plenty of texture will look great on a neutral carpet and help define the seating area. Add in the details: Plenty of bowls, vases, lamps and picture frames in punchy earthy tones will finish off the scheme and create its warm look. Use decorative detail: Create a fresh living room scheme to take your family living room from functional to beautiful with pattern, texture and statement pieces Add in shimmer: Give a glamorous touch with plenty of accessories with textured finishes and sparkling detail. Opt for statement pieces: A statement picture, lamp or rug can transform your room and create an instant focal point. Keep the background simple: Let your accessories steal the show with a neutral backdrop, wallpaper or paints in subtle shades will really allow a statement lamp or piece of wall art to stand out. Walls and ceilings: While all of the accessories and ideas above will go a long way, few things can make more of a difference than what a new coat of paint to the walls and ceiling will do, or a process many are turning to…textured surfaces. This will be the subject of next month’s article.

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Home Improvement

Charlie Traffas

2011-04-01 13:55:00

Answer: That’s a great question and a great strategy. There’s more than one way for home values to go up and you’re on the right track. So often it takes so little to make a big difference in home value. Over the next several issues, I will give you a few tips. Some of these…for every dollar you spend…you can increase your home value by as much as $3 to $10 or more. Spend $1,000 and get your home value to go up by $3,000 to $10,000 or more. This will outperform most any market condition you can find. This month…your entry way… Are you tired of that carpet wearing out or the linoleum getting scratched up? Take it out and install tile. Again, there are many types of tile, so shop around. You will need something to adhere it to the top floor, and if it is really thick you will need to replace the top floor with a thinner material. I am sure you do not want to go around tripping onto the foyer floor. An entry closet for coats and other items is nice, but unless you want it to stick out and match the other doors and trim paint it to match the walls. A decorative sheet of material in place of the door would even brighten up the entryway. If you want to really spruce up the closet, you can install a door light switch and remove the switch on the wall. Another idea is to line the closet with cedar planks to absorb the odor of rained on coats and musty shoes. Hooks on the inside of the door is an option, but I do not recommend hooks anywhere in the house outside of the bathroom if you are remodeling to sell the house. The trim around the doorways to the rest of the house could be replaced, repainted or stained. I would not recommend staining wood that has all ready been painted, as it would not be cost effective to remove it just so you can stain it. What you spend on that material could have been spent on new trim. Do you have trim work where the ceiling meets the walls? This is also a good selling point when remodeling. You do not need the fanciest alcove trim, but something to put there will suffice. If the rest of the trim in the house is stained, then stain this trim. Otherwise, paint it as a neutral color, but different from your walls or ceiling. This will add more color and brighten up the entry as well. An entry table and mirror may be all you need to finish off the foyer. These are easy to find at a hobby store or elsewhere. Be different; use a bamboo style table, with a few knickknacks on it. Get an octagon shaped mirror. Do something to bring a presence to your foyer. Maybe a fake plant or real one, if you can remember to water it, will be better for you. The common ones are ficus and ferns. Pay a visit to your local nursery garden to see what they have. Maybe you will find the right plant for you. Family or special photos will also make a difference in your entry. The goal is not for it to look cluttered, but kept. A few pictures here and there in small frames will do it well. Maybe you need to knock out a wall to provide an entry to your living room instead of going from room to room to get to it. A crossbeam will need to be in place at the ceiling held up by studs at the end. Finish it out with drywall, paint and trim. You could widen your entry by making the rooms next to it smaller. Try not to make the other rooms too small. Before you start, make sure you are not trying to move a bearing wall. This means it would be a main wall that holds up your roof. You may need to obtain a set of house plans from your city for your home. Support the ceiling when installing the new walls. Do not forget about the top and bottom plates, which need to be secured in place. Another idea is to raise the ceiling maybe a foot or two. This requires going up in the attic, and securing vertical beams where the ceiling will rise up between. From there, measure up where you want the ceiling to be, and nail in the crossbeams. Nail up the drywall, tape it off and mud it out. Let it dry, then paint it. A high ceiling gives a home a grandiose effect when one walks into it. This may be something you want to do first. These are all suggestions on how you can remodel your entryway. Take it to heart, and do some house shopping. Drive by other people’s homes to see what you like about their front door, and what you don’t like. This is a great way to get ideas. Look in home related magazines as to what others are doing. Maybe that wonderful idea will hit you when you see it. Take the challenge to see what you can do to spruce up your entryway. Next month, we will talk about one of the most focal rooms in your home…your family living room.

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Home Improvement

Charlie Traffas

2011-03-01 11:31:00

Answer: That’s a great question and a great strategy. There’s more than one way for home values to go up and you’re on the right track. So often it takes so little to make a big difference in home value. Over the next several issues, I will give you a few tips. Some of these…for every dollar you spend…you can increase your home value by as much as $3 to $10 or more. Spend $1,000 and get your home value to go up by $3,000 to $10,000 or more. This will outperform most any market condition you can find. This month…a few hold over items from last month’s article on your front door… The average American knows that a great looking home on the outside is one that is well kept. What they don’t know is how to present their home when one enters it. You would be surprised at how more open your home would present itself when visitors drop by for a visit. Would you like to know how to spruce up the look on your foyer? Then let us take stock of what you may have. How does your door look? Is the paint peeling or dull? Is it stained and looking like that gray twig out in the yard? The door may be the first item to go or be refinished. A painted door basically just needs repainting. Therefore, a good sanding would need to be done first before painting so the new paint will go on well. How does the color of it look? Are you tired of the color? If your house is a traditional color such as white, light blue or pale yellow then a red or red-orange door would brighten it up and attract much attention. This also helps in selling the home. Try using a color opposite of the color of your house on a color wheel. If your house is white, paint the door black or gray. Have a blue house? Try an orange or mauve colored door. These are just suggestions, and you just may stun yourself with a color you finally choose. Do you have a dilapidated screen door? Replace it immediately. There are a vast variety of them out there to choose from. Not all, but most homes have the handle on the left side of the door. Make note of that when you get one otherwise you will be returning it. I like the simple glass door with the metal frame. You can paint them any color with paint made just for metal if you don’t like the color. Some people like to add a window off to the side of their door. I like them, but it can be a security issue for your home. Your foyer may be wide enough to have one on both sides of your front door. This would be a fun way to spend a Saturday. For less than $200 you might be able to do it yourself. Plan it out well, and save you the labor cost of someone else doing it for you. There are French pane styles, stained glass, and many others. You may like the etched glass style. A single drape on the inside will add to the beauty. Next month, we will move just a bit further inside of your home and talk about the entry way.

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Home Improvement

Marvin Niedens

2011-01-01 10:18:00

Answer: That’s a great question and a great strategy. There’s more than one way for home values to go up and you’re on the right track. So often it takes so little to make a big difference in home value. Over the next several issues, I will give you a few tips. Some of these…for every dollar you spend…you can increase your home value by as much as $3 to $10 or more. Spend $1,000 and get your home value to go up by $3,000 to $10,000 or more. This will outperform most any market condition you can find. This month…the front porch… Do you worry about someone stepping on your front porch and falling and seriously injuring themselves? Are you looking to sell your home and realtors are telling you the home lacks curb appeal and getting a sale done might take a while? The reality is the front entrance is critically important in the safety, function, and appearance of your home. Here are 7 tips from Mike Foti, an advisor at www.ezinearticles.com, and other information, to give this area of your home a makeover which will make it shine: Tip 1 - Begin with the end in mind. Have a plan. This is not a project you want to wing it. Since you’re altering the architectural look of your home, most cities and towns will require a building permit (and in some cases you might need to get approval from a local architectural review board). First develop a plan, (a bird’s eye view) and an elevation drawing of what you’re looking to do. Tip 2 - “If it doesn’t fit you must acquit.” Make sure the design fits the home. The design of the porch, roof, and other components needs to compliment the rest of the home. If you have a small home you’ll want a small porch. For a larger home, you can have a larger structure (or even a wrap around design). See if there are architectural elements to “connect” your design to the home (for example if you have fluted millwork around the door you may want to use fluted columns). Tip 3 - Choose low maintenance products. Here’s your chance. Don’t allow your home to be a future money pit (and time eater). Find low maintenance products and use them. Consider using fiberglass columns vs. wood columns. Evaluate a vinyl or composite soffit vs. wood bead board. Research metal shingles vs. asphalt. Tip 4 - Create a safe universal design - “visitable,” accessible and secure. Now is the time to consider the future. If you plan to hire a builder or contractor ask them if the design can be wheelchair accessible. Is it possible to have the distance between the stoop and the door threshold 1/4” or less. Can the sides of the door openings be made more secure with a glass block sidelight? Tip 5 - Don’t create a “porch Mahal.” Keep your budget and surrounding property values in mind. It’s not a good idea to design and build a palatial Taj Mahal front porch in a modest neighborhood. Estimate your costs, prices and budget. Keep the market value of the project in mind. Tip 6 - Add some decorative touches. After the construction work is completed, go to a home goods store and look for decorative items for the front entrance. Consider a bench, flower pots, rocking chairs etc. If you’re unsure what would look best get feedback from an interior designer. Tip 7 - Still unsure what to do? Hire a professional design/build contractor. Sometimes the smartest thing to do is hire a professional from the start. Choose reputable contractors. Check out their grades with the Better Business Bureau and Angie’s List. Now that you’re equipped with these 7 tips, you’re ready to get going on a front porch design that will add curb appeal and safety to your home. Next month, we will talk about the Front Door.

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Home Improvement

Wess Galyon

2011-01-01 10:18:00

Answer: The Wichita Area Builders Association (WABA) kicks off its annual Home Show event on Thursday, February 10, 2011, at Century II Convention Center. Home Show 2011 is the 57th show for WABA, and will feature over 275 different booths representing a wide variety of interior and exterior home products and services for virtually every aspect of a home, from floors to ceilings, interiors and exteriors including outdoor living, decorating and improving, constructing and remodeling and more. The show maintains its popularity because consumers know that they can see just about every home related product in one location, and while attending the Show can compare products and conduct research right there without feeling pressured. As we always say, “It’s the largest window shopping spree around.” The Wichita Area Builders Association is a Trade Association whose membership consists of builders and persons in allied trades, industries and professions. The primary objective of the association is to work toward providing quality, affordable housing and homeownership for the greatest number of people possible. The association strives to promote a better understanding between the industry and the general public in regard to housing issues and acts as a liaison between the building industry and all levels of government whose actions impact efforts to maintain housing affordability; promoting adherence to an industry adopted Code of Ethics and high professional standards and business priorities among its members to the mutual benefit of both the consumer and the housing industry as a whole. Home ownership strengthens the social fabric of the nation. By encouraging civic participation and involvement in schools and communities and inspiring the upkeep and improvement of the home, homeownership fosters good citizenship. Safe, decent and comfortable housing in general and homeownership in particular, are also a positive influence in children’s lives. Children of homeowners stay in school longer and are more likely to become productive citizens, according to a study by the University of Chicago. The benefits to children are even more pronounced among low-income households, the study found. The Home Show opens February 10 2011 and runs through February 13 2010 at Century II Convention Center. Check the ad in this publication for hours and admission costs. Remember, there is free parking and shuttle bus service from Lawrence Dumont Stadium. Whether you’re considering building, remodeling or redecorating, Home Show 2011 is the place to be!

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Home Improvement

Marvin Niedens

2011-01-01 10:18:00

Question: The market is tougher than we can ever remember. Our home value has stayed the same or gone down over the last three years. What can one do to increase the value of his or her home, without waiting for the market to rebound?

Answer: That’s a great question and a great strategy. There’s more than one way for home values to go up and you’re on the right track. So often it takes so little to make a big difference in home value. Over the next several issues, I will give you a few tips. Some of these…for every dollar you spend…you can increase your home value by as much as $3 to $10 or more. Spend $1,000 and get your home value to go up by $3,000 to $10,000 or more. This will outperform most any market condition you can find. This month…the front door… Exterior doors are both decorative and protective. Don’t skimp when it comes to one of the most important features of your home. Once you’ve made your decision…on just the right front door…and those tips may include a trip to your home improvement center for some additional advice, here are some tips on installation. 1. Door measurements are extremely important. Measurements should be taken from the top of the stop down to the threshold. Take the width measurements in at least two, maybe three, places. Take these numbers to your home improvement center and allow someone help you find the proper door for the opening. 2. Always put the handle of a storm door on the same side as the door going into the house. 3. Once door hinges are in place, always dry fit the door first. Dry-fitting enables you to determine whether you need to mortise the door opening as you did the hinges (with a hammer and chisel), where to locate the door knob, lock and other hardware and where to locate the hydraulic door closure mechanism. 4. If you are installing a wood door and it sticks a little bit, it’s okay to use a power or hand planer to scrape just a bit of wood from the door at the area where it sticks. 5. When replacing an entry door, be sure to carefully remove the door trim with a utility knife, pry bar and hammer. The trim can be reused if the new door is the same size as the old one. A rough opening for a door should always be at least one inch wider and thicker than the door dimensions. 6. Measure for an entry door by measuring the width between the side jambs and the head jamb to the sill under the old threshold. Also measure the thickness of the door jamb. The rough opening should be at least one inch wider and taller than the outside frame dimensions of the door to be installed. 7. A solid-core entry door provides better insulation and security than a door that has a hollow core. Make sure the door is already in place when you paint. If you paint before securing it, you could scratch the surface and ruin the paint job. 8. Don’t try to save a lot of money on paint for the entry door. Remember, this is the outdoors, so always purchase a high-quality primer and paint. Latex is fine as long as it is of good quality. 9. Once the door is painted, install the door hardware — reversing this step will make the painting job far more difficult. When you’re all through, you will do as most do…stand back and admire it. You will wonder how anyone could not immediately fall in love with your home. Next month, we will talk about the entry way of your home.

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Home Improvement

Bill Atkinson

2010-12-01 15:07:00

Question: I need to replace my front door and know that there are many choices on the market. I am wondering which holds up best over time, wood, steel or fiberglass?

Answer: That depends on what you mean by holds up! Independent studies have shown that there are many steel, wood, and fiberglass doors that can compete quite evenly in the weather resistance category. However, in the resistance to scratches, dents and dings they part ways. In consumer surveys, most respondents assumed that steel doors would resist scratches and dents most effectively. It may be surprising to know that steel door show the effects of scratches and dents much more than wood or fiberglass. The same survey also noted that many people are not familiar with the advantages or features of fiberglass doors, such as energy efficiency, strength and durability. Over all, there are very competitive features for each type of entry door. After some research, when considering strength, durability and curb appeal, and most customers opt for high quality fiberglass doors that offer the look of real wood grain, strength of steel, but lower in maintenance.

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Home Improvement

Charlie Traffas

2010-12-01 11:33:00

Question: The market is tougher than we can ever remember. Our home value has stayed the same or gone down over the last three years. What can one do to increase the value of his or her home, without waiting for the market to rebound?

Answer: That’s a great question and a great strategy. There’s more than one way for home values to go up and you’re on the right track. So often it takes so little to make a big difference in home value. Over the next several issues, I will give you a few tips. Some of these…for every dollar you spend…you can increase your home value by as much as $3 to $10 or more. Spend $1,000 and get your home value to go up by $3,000 to $10,000 or more. This will outperform most any market condition you can find. This month…cut energy costs. The amount of money you spend each month on energy costs may seem like a fixed amount, but many local utility companies provide free energy audits of their customers’ homes. They can show you how to maximize the energy efficiency of your home. An energy-efficient home will save you money now, which can be applied to other updates, and is a more valuable and marketable asset in the long run. To be able to state you have an energy efficient home will in itself increase the value of your home. Maybe all it took was insulation, re-caulking the windows and putting new seals under the doors, along with an heating and air service call. You spend a little an increase the value of your home a lot. Next month, I will be back with some things you can do to the front of your home that will make a big difference in increasing home value.

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Home Improvement

Bill Atkinson

2010-11-01 13:31:00

Question: We’re considering building an outdoor shade structure for our yard. While doing some research, we’ve noticed that there are several different names for outdoor structures. Can you tell us the real differences besides the names?

Answer: Sure! I believe you are referring to arbors, gazebos, pavilions and pergolas. Let’s begin by how they are similar. All four are forms of shelter, physical and physiological. Each provides protection from the weather or climate, and add beauty to the larger landscape. All of these types of overhead structures perform similar and related essential design functions. They enclose passageways, provide shade or protection from rain, announce entry and set aside a space designated for certain functions. Now for how they differ. An arbor is a structure primarily intended to create shade through the use of vines and climbing flowers. With that in mind, the structure is constructed to support the vines by means of two or more columns supporting an open roof, which the vines then fill in to a great degree. It is frequently used as a statement of entry as over a gate or a gap in a fence or wall. Sometimes it is provided with a bench type seat, which expands its use to that of a destination. Gazebos commonly have solid roofs and sides that enclose it in a light manner with railings or lattice work, either. The sides may be either fully enclosed with the lattice or other decorative work, or up to railing or hip height, providing one open side for entrance. The sides never obscure view. Traditionally, the roof framing represents the octagon or hexagon shape. These seem to be derived from a romantic and medieval era of architecture, or translated from the more Victorian themes. Pavilions have solid roof structures with open sides, or may have guard rails on one or two sides. Pavilions can be many shapes but are frequently octagonal or hexagonal in shape. Generally, they are designed to be accessible from many directions. A pergola is a structure meant to create shade by means of four or more columns supporting an open roof, sometimes covered by vines, but not always. These structures are intended to create a shaded walkway and may be very long. Whether your project calls for a thin arbor, or the beefier presence of a pavilion, the decision is based upon your intended use and the mood desired for the space. All types of overhead structures can be designed and built to relate to the larger architecture of the site. During the design process keep in mind the simplicity or complexity appropriate for its function and setting.

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Home Improvement

Charlie Traffas

2010-11-01 13:31:00

Question: My new home has 12-ft. ceilings, which I love, but I can’t decide on a paint scheme to compliment the height. Can you help?

Answer: Any time you have high ceilings to work with, you want to accentuate them, which will make the room feel loftier. It’s easy to focus only on the space from the floor to about 6 feet up from the floor. This space is mostly occupied by furniture, art, and people. But it is a common question about what to do with the space above one’s head. First, think about color. For some, a warm and cozy red library or fireplace room makes an ideal spot for gathering family and friends. Others would trade the intensity of red for a lighter, soothing tone. Ambers, peaches or corals in eating areas spark appetites and encourage conversation and shades of yellow nurture creativity. For rooms where rest and relaxation is desired, choose pacifying colors such as blue, green and purple. These colors are calming. With a quick change of paint on your walls, you’ll feel the mood shift throughout the room. Warm colors make small rooms appear smaller and large rooms more cozy. Cool colors recede and make any size room appear larger. Because they also make a room feel colder, these colors make sense for a sunny room where the brightness needs to be held in check. Paint chips, or paint cards are available at most stores that sell paint. These are free to take home and try-out in the area that you are hoping to change. To get a clearer idea of the true paint color, cut away any white spaces on the paint card. Then, check your paint choice against the colors it will be used with in your home. The small size of color chips also makes it hard to envision that color on an 8x10-foot wall. What looks appropriate on the small card will appear more intense on the wall. To get a better idea of how your color will really look, hold the chip against the wall. If you’re tempted to go bold, consider stepping a shade or two lighter on the color card since dark colors will appear even darker when seen in large amounts. Selecting a slightly grayed-down version of the color is another way to soften its intensity. Drying makes a difference, too. Usually paint dries to a darker shade. Sheen changes color value as well. A flat, matte paint differs in value from the same color in a shiny, glossy finish. The shinier the color, the lighter it will look. Texture also alters color. Smooth surfaces reflect light, so a heavily textured wall will appear darker than a smooth wall painted the same color.

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Home Improvement

Bill Atkinson

2010-10-01 11:45:00

Question: My wife and I are thinking of remodeling one of our bathrooms to feel like a spa while remaining within our modest budget. Can you give me some ideas?

Answer: You are in luck! Not only is remodeling the bathroom to give it a spa-like feel popular, it lends itself to a minimalist budget! The idea of a spa bathroom is to create an atmosphere of tranquility, so simplicity is a key element of the design. Start With the Basic Elements: The foundation of any luxury spa is atmosphere, and that is a great place to start. Just what is it that gives a spa that tranquil feel? The choice of flooring, fixtures, lighting and decor all contribute to the overall effect. Let Your Choice in Materials Reflect Nature: In spa design and construction, it is essential to use natural materials. Depending on the look you are trying to achieve, consider the use of soapstone, marble, granite and even slate for countertops and to replace tile. Incorporating light colored natural wood in cabinetry and shelving helps balance out the stone. Consider Water and Light Elements: What better way to wash away the cares of the world than with a hydro-jet air massage? Today you have a multitude of choices from a simply elegant stand-alone tub, to the ultimate in high tech units. It has never been easier for even the smallest spaces to be spa inspired with open-base vanities, and combination units. While there are many high-end choices in tub and shower features, there are also affordable choices that will still add to a spa feel. For example, adding a rainfall shower head is a feature that adds tranquility without breaking the bank. Lighting is another great place to make budget conscious choices. Nothing can spoil your atmosphere more than poor lighting. Stay away from blaring florescent lighting that shatters the atmosphere. Making the most of natural light is a wise choice to consider. If you are fortunate enough to be able to take construction to the next level, consider bringing in natural light through skylights or spacious frosted windows. Keep Colors Neutral: The element with by far the greatest impact will be your color choice. Try colors that induce a calming effect, such as warm neutrals like cream, mocha, and chocolate. A neutral background is essential in creating an ideal atmosphere that will highlight and compliment other spa elements. Finishing Touches Complete the Effect: Remember to plan for the little things first as those that are first to crowd out the peace and tranquility. Buy natural containers such as wicker baskets, and frosted glass that will conceal frequently used items while still adding style and texture to your space. Whether you are planning a total bathroom redo or simply adding a few spa elements, the options are endless when creating your own contemplative sanctuary. With a little help, you can have an aesthetically beautiful, soothing and functional bathroom space.

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Home Improvement

Charlie Traffas

2010-10-01 11:45:00

Question: How in the world does one get rid of old wall paper, with the least amount of effort, when wanting to change décor?

Answer: I have yet to find a person who enjoys removing wall paper. It is never easy…never fun…and always expensive. There is a new process out however that is quickly becoming the “go to way” to get it done quickly, beautifully and most efficiently. This process puts a hand-troweled texture on your walls and is so “low profile,” you can put wall paper over it again, right after it is applied or even years later. It is quick, clean and economical as well as guaranteed never to come off. It can be painted or glazed in any color or combination of colors to match any new or existing furnishings, patterns, drapes or colors. It can be applied over most any wall surface, paint or paper. You can save even more by painting this texture yourself. It is especially popular in commercial and high traffic areas because it can be washed and easily patched if ever damaged. A similar process to “undo” old, stained “popcorn” ceilings is also available from the same company.

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Home Improvement

Charlie Traffas

2010-10-01 10:11:00

QUESTION: My wife and I purchased our dream home, but will have to repaint almost every room. Neither of us are experts-do you have any tips?

Answer: Interior painting can be fun. But to make sure the process goes smoothly, there are a few details that one must pay attention to. The most frequently asked question is, “How much paint do I need to buy?” To calculate the amount needed for ceilings, multiply the length of the ceiling by the width, then divide that number by 350 (the average square feet covered by one gallon). For walls in your room, add the length of each wall, then multiply by the height of the room. Once you have that number, subtract 20 sq. feet for each door, and 15 for each window. Divide this number by 350, and that will give you the amount of paint needed. Once you have your paint, it is important to make it last. Air is the number one enemy of paint. To keep your paint in its prime liquid state for the longest period of time, pour your paint into a bucket or tray. This forces you to keep replenishing the paint, keeping its liquid consistency. Close the lid tightly on any unused paint cans. When painting with rollers, make sure the roller is well made. Cheap rollers tend to scatter paint and leave pieces of fuzz on your wall. When using a brush, make sure the base and bristles are thick-this is a sure sign of a quality brush. Before you begin painting, especially ceilings, cover furniture and floors with cloth or tarp to protect from paint. Remove light bulbs and fixture covers. Primer should be used on all interior surfaces to help ensure the quality of the top coat. The primer should be dry by the time the room is finished. Two to three coats of paint are recommended. Any more can cause paint to eventually peel. Coats can be added as soon as the previous coat is dry to the touch. Make sure to keep the room well ventilated. As fun as painting can be, safety should always be your number one priority.

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Home Improvement

Charlie Traffas

2010-09-01 13:38:00

Question: I have been asked and heard others ask, “What is a ‘faux’ finish?” I have to admit. I don’t have the answer. What does “faux” mean?

Answer: You probably see “faux” things in your own home every day and are completely unaware that they are “faux.” The word “faux” is French for the word “fake”, or imitation. It is pronounced “Fo,” with a long “o.” Generally “faux” means, when discussing design and finishes, something that looks like it is a real object such as a flower made of plastic to look like a real flower. Sometimes you can hardly tell the difference between a “faux” something and a real something. For instance, Naugahyde is imitation leather, yet sometimes it looks like the real thing. Walls can be painted and stained to look like castle walls, windows on to garden or a mountain view. You are only limited by your own imagination. All of the new “faux” finishes and products related to them have opened a whole new world of wall and ceiling finishes. Many of these can be easily done by you, the home owner. Many are so simple and easy to do that you will surprise yourself at what you can do even with no experience and just a few minutes of instruction. A little texture, a little paint, a little glaze…and “wa-la”…your own personal finish. It saves money and it is great for the environment.

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Home Improvement

Bill Atkinson

2010-09-01 10:14:00

Is now a good time to paint?

Answer: Interior painting is pretty much a go year round. However, if you are wanting to paint a basement that has a lot of dampness, then you may need to run a humidifier to thoroughly dry the walls and ceilings. Remember this, preparation is as important as painting, getting the room prepped to paint can take a lot of time, moving furniture, patching holes in walls, covering bad spots that may be the result of leaks. There are a lot of products to assist you in preparation, a sealer or primer for new surfaces is a must. Semi-gloss paint for walls and flat paint on ceilings. It is my experience that semi-gloss paint will wash or clean better than most flat paints, and paint "drips" and messy accidents happen oh so often. Exterior painting? That is a whole different story. Exterior painting really should be left up to the professionals for the most part. The best, ideal time is in the fall when the 100 plus degree weather has surpassed. Trim and facia work are important before painting. It is very important to check the wood to see that no rotting has started. If so, replace those boards and prime them thoroughly. Priming the boards before they are installed is a great way to assure that all sides are treated and will last longer than just treating/priming one side of the board. Scraping on surfaces that have not been painted in a long time can be daunting. Clean all areas with a pressure hose to get rid of dirt, grime and other obstacles like insects that have taken up space in and around your guttering. In summary, painting the interior of your home can be done most anytime, but be more cautious on exterior work and leave that for the fall. Spot painting can also be done most anytime year round during good weather. More next month...

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Home Improvement

Charlie Traffas

2010-05-01 14:25:00

I have been told that you should not paint popcorn ceilings. Can I just scrape the popcorn texture off my ceiling and paint it?

Answer: It sounds like it should work and it is somewhat of a solution in a small room such as a bath or closet; however, it isn’t that simple for larger rooms, such as a bedroom or living room. There are a number of reasons it is not recommended for larger rooms. The biggest reason is that the popcorn was used so the drywall underneath did not have to be finished and shimmed nearly so exact. Popcorn covered up a lot of "sins." All of these are exposed when the popcorn is removed. It can be very expensive to fix all of these "sins" and prepare the surface for even a "knock" finish, let alone a painted finish. A random texture is almost always preferred for the best looking and elegant finish, and the most economical.

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Home Improvement

Charlie Traffas

2010-03-01 08:47:00

Question: We are thinking of selling our home, even though we are aware that this is not the best time…however, things seem to be improving. The Realtors we have talked to tell us that to get top price the property must be in top shape and the more updated the better. We have also been told that home improvement loans up to $100,000 are not that difficult to obtain right now and are at very good rates, around 5%. Our question is, how does one know where to start and stop when updating to sell?

Answer: This is really a great question. It may take a couple of issues to cover the bases. Most people have always felt there are three main reasons to update one’s home. The first is when you are doing it for yourself…meaning you are going to continue to live there and you just want it updated for your own enjoyment. The second reason is that you are ready to move on and you would like someone else to buy it from you so they can live there. The third is that your neighbors would really like to see you update for whatever reason. While these are all valid reasons, perhaps the latter is the least important…but even it is used quite often. There are many degrees of updates from painting a wall to a total make over top to bottom inside and out. If you are wanting to get your home ready to sell, you probably want to spend the least amount of money you can to make it look as good as it can. The more you spend, the more of your home’s equity you affect. On the other hand you want it to dazzle when a perspective buyer walks through your door. You want them to "Oooh" and "Ahhh" and generally congratulate you on how clean and fresh it is. The key word here is fresh. To get fresh you must cover all surfaces walls, ceilings, floors, woodwork, and counter tops. You do not have to spend a fortune or a lot of time to do this. This tactic establishes two purposes. It makes everything look new and it smells great. You may ask. "Why cover all surfaces…my walls look great and don’t have a scratch on them?" The reason is that they carry an odor. Every home has a distinctive odor…even a new home…and flat surfaces…particularly walls and ceilings…are responsible for most of those odors. New homes have not been lived in and therefore do not harbor human odors. We’ll talk more about this, ways to do it, and other updates you can make…affordable…in the next issue.

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Home Improvement

Charlie Traffas

2010-02-01 08:42:00

Question: Of all the rooms in a home, we have heard that the condition of baths and kitchen is most important to most home buyers. Our walls and ceilings in all these rooms are in bad shape because of the moisture and layers of wall paper and paint that have built up. How do we fix these without re-sheet rocking or painting…affordably?

Answer: I have stated in past articles the importance of having a light, random texture over any wall or ceiling. If I were in your situation (and I have been many times), the best solution is having a texture applied by a professional, then you do the painting and even the glazing. It’s kind of a “professional do it yourself” situation. You will be absolutely shocked with your hidden talent! How complicated it seems, yet how easy it is. Not only will you save at least 50%, but you will also be so proud of your new found skills. The outcomes from doing this have always been pleasing. Unlike picking paint from little chips and hoping it is the color you wanted – you perfect your color and glaze so easily. You can cover any, and I mean any, mistake quickly and easily. You will find the glazing to be quick, simple and fun. With simple instructions you can be a pro.

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Home Improvement

Charlie Traffas

2009-12-01 09:50:00

Question: After several years of winds, rains and snow my ceilings have a number of water stains. Is there a simple way to fix them so they are not so obvious? What do you suppose caused my roof to all of a sudden, begin leaking in the first place?

Answer: Last question first…if you have a roof, chances are sooner or later you are going to have a leak. We live in Kansas. Those of us that have lived here a number of years know that seldom is there rain or snow without wind and it can and does blow from every direction. It may be two years or longer before it blows from the east when it storms, but sooner or later we will get wind and rain or snow from every direction at different intensity. That is why even the best roofing job sooner or later will leak. It may be ten years or more when the conditions are just right for it to leak again. When the roof leaks, you have a ceiling stain to remind you. Another real culprit for ceiling stains is fireplace chimneys and the flashing used to water proof them. No two are alike, so in reality, it is up to the craftsmen installing them, and it is extremely easy for even an experienced craftsman to make a mistake or overlook the obvious, causing a leak that can occur occasionally, or at every rain. Actually the ones that leak with every rain are much easier to trace and fix than the sneaky, occasional ones. All ceiling stains can be repaired…it’s just that when they are repaired they usually look like they have been repaired. Texture and color on ceilings is almost always impossible to match, so if the damaged area is larger than the size of a tennis ball, the only real way to fix it is to redo the whole ceiling. Trying to patch a size bigger than a tennis ball can take as much time, and cost just as much, as having a professional redo the whole ceiling. Generally the hardest ceilings to patch are the acoustic sprayed (pop corn) and knockdown. Hand troweled and random textures are by far the easiest to match textures. . The next thing that must match for a successful repair is the color of the ceiling. Even using the exact same paint put on the same way will no longer match if it has been more than about thirty days. The reason it will no longer match is due to things like shower steam, candle smoke, cooking grease, ultra-violet light and other pollutants in the air. No matter what they tell you in the lumber yard or paint store, many DIY home-owners have found the hard way that patching a ceiling is much more difficult than it appears. Ceilings are usually the most visible and the most delicate surfaces in your room. For the most part their repair should be left to a professional who can provide you with plenty of references.

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Home Improvement

Charlie Traffas

2009-11-01 15:55:00

Question: Why are most walls un-cleanable and un-washable?

Answer: Walls and ceilings, because of their structure, are not glass smooth. Even with the smoothest of sheetrock or plaster construction they have inherent flaws. The shinier the paint the more magnified these flaws become. That is why most surfaces in your home have a flat, paint finish. Flat finishes have talcum powder in them to make them rough and keep them from being shiny. This roughness makes the wall look smooth, but in turn, makes it uncleanable. Then, almost anything that touches it makes a mark. The mark may not be apparent until the light hits it from a different direction. You can actually mark flat wall paint by merely running your clean finger over it or even a clean dry rag. There is a cure. It has recently been discovered that a polymer, reinforced, low-profile, texture virtually hides all defects and creates a beautiful finish that can be easily painted with a washable and durable paint. This finish can then be easily patched if damaged, then faux finished to satisfy the most discriminating tastes. It will enhance any décor. The best thing is that it doesn’t cost an arm and a leg to do a room or even a whole house. Most of the time, you will not need to remove the wall paper, even in a bath room. This process has been tested in numerous commercial and residential applications here in Wichita, with all satisfied customers.

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Home Improvement

Charlie Traffas

2009-08-01 12:16:00

Question: What is meant by Tuscany Décor? Is it for modern homes?

Answer: I have my own way of explaining Tuscany Décor, but I thought I would use a portion of a recent article from Home Magazine to supplement my answer. It does it so much better than I could. In Italian, “Benvenuto ala Villa” translates to “Welcome to my home”. It expresses what makes a Tuscan home authentically Tuscan…a celebration of the joy and warmth found in welcoming guests to your home. Tuscan-style homes and furnishings are one of the most sought after interior design elements today. Infused with hearty materials such as hardwoods, terra cotta, stone and brick, Tuscany décor is a throwback in style that matches the look that people seek in their home decorating today…rustic, simple and solid comfort. Tuscany brings to mind rolling green hillsides, vineyards and farmhouses. That image alone may be responsible for the current decorating craze. It’s a style that might also be called the original European “Shabby Chic”; crumbling stone walls, moss-covered rock patios, and any element that is stained, old and well-used. Tuscan decorating is rustic, warm and inviting, with a few simple, sturdy details. A Tuscan room often looks as though it has been there forever, well-loved and used over many generations. We have Tuscany to thank for some of the most appealing words in our decorating vocabulary: loggia, portico, patios, villas and outdoor kitchens. These terms evoke thoughts of relaxing summer days spent outdoors amid warm splashes of sun and lush greenery. No wonder so many of us are in love with this style. True Tuscan rooms are low-ceilinged, dark and small. Modern homes can easily be modified to achieve a Tuscany feel. Instead of dark rooms with low ceilings, the effect can be produced with the use of a variety of color washing and faux wall techniques appropriate to Tuscan interiors. Look for mottled, uneven colors and old-world, time-worn finishes in warm golden tones springing from a range of earthy ochres, deep golds, sunny yellows, rich browns, and warm terra cottas, accented with deep blues, black, rusty reds, and olive greens. Tuscan themes include agricultural products such as olives, grapes and flowers. Flooring in a Tuscan room might be brick, clay tile or uneven stone. Architectural features include arched niches, rustic ceiling beams, and simple moldings to underscore a Tuscany theme. Chicken wire cupboard door fronts are another Tuscan element than can easily be incorporated into kitchen cupboards or an armoire. Use copper pots, tin accents, marble and stone in a Tuscan kitchen. Decorate with sturdy pine storage pieces, a big farmhouse table or island, and bunches of hanging herbs. The earth tones you can bring into your home, inspired by a Tuscan landscape, provides a tranquil yet grounding atmosphere.

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Home Improvement

Wess Galyon

2009-05-01 11:45:00

Question: Are there any income limits for claiming the tax credit?

Answer: The tax credit amount is reduced for buyers with a modified adjusted gross income (MAGI) of more then $75,000 for single taxpayers and $150,000 for married taxpayers filing a joint return. The Tax credit amount is reduced to zero for taxpayers with MAGI of more than $95,000 (single) or $170,000 (married) and is reduced proportionally for taxpayers with MAGIs between these amounts. What is “modified adjusted gross income”? •Answer: Modified gross income or MAGI is defined by the IRS. To find it, a taxpayer must first determine “adjusted gross income” or AGI. AGI is total income for a year minus certain deductions (known as “adjustments” or “above the line deductions”), but before itemized deductions from Schedule A or personal exemptions are subtracted. On Forms 1040 and 1040A, AGI is the last number on page 1 and first number on page 2 of the form. For Form 1040-EZ, AGI appears on line 4 (as of 2007). Note that AGI includes all forms of income including wages, salaries, interest income, dividends and capital gains. To determine modified adjusted gross income (MAGI), add AGI certain amounts such as foreign income, foreign-housing deductions, student-loan deductions, IRA-contribution deductions and deductions for higher-education costs. If my modified adjusted gross income (MAGI) is above the limit, do I qualify for any tax credit? •Possibly, it depends on your income. Partial credits of less than $8,000 are available for some taxpayers whose MAGI exceeds the phaseout limits. Can you give me an example of how the partial tax credit is determined? •Just as an example, assume that a married couple has a modified adjusted gross income of $160,000. The applicable phaseout to qualify for the tax credit is $150,000, and the couple is $10,000 over this amount. Dividing $10,000 by $20,000 yields 0.5. When you subtract 0.5 from 1.0, the result is 0.5. To determine the amount of the partial first time home buyer tax credit that is available to this couple, multiply $8,000 by 0.5. The result is $4,000. Here’s another example: assume that an individual home buyer has a modified adjusted gross income of $88,000. The buyer’s income exceeds $75,000 by $13,000. Dividing $13,000 by $20,000 yields 0.65. When you subtract 0.65 from 1.0, the result is 0.35. Multiplying $8,000 by 0.35 shows that the buyer is eligible for a partial tax credit of $2,800. Please remember that these examples are intended to provide a general idea of how the tax credit might be applied in different circumstances. You should always consult your tax advisor for information relating to your specific circumstances. How is this home buyer tax credit different from the tax credit that Congress enacted in July of 2008? •The most significant difference is that this tax credit does not have to be repaid. Because it had to be repaid, the previous “credit” was essentially an interest-free loan. This tax incentive is a true tax credit. However, home buyers must use the residence as a principal residence for at least three years or face recapture of the tax credit amount. Certain exceptions apply. How do I claim the tax credit? Do I need to complete a form or application? •Participating in the tax credit program is easy. You claim the tax credit on your federal income tax return. Specifically, home buyers should complete IRS Form 5405 to determine their tax credit amount, and then claim this amount on Line 69 of their 1040 income tax return. No other applications or forms required, and no pre-approval is necessary. However, you will want to be sure that you qualify for the credit under the income limits and first time home buyer tests. What types of homes will qualify for the tax credit? •Any home that will be used as a principal residence will qualify for the credit. This includes single family detached homes, attached homes like townhouses and condominiums, manufactured homes (also known as mobile homes) and houseboats. The definition of principal residence is identical to the one used to determine whether you may qualify for the $250,000 / $500,000 capital gain tax exclusion for principal residences. I read that the tax credit is “refundable.” What does that mean? •The fact that the credit is refundable means that the home buyer credit can be claimed even if the taxpayer has little or no federal income tax liability to offset. Typically this involves the government sending the taxpayer a check for a portion or even all of the amount of the refundable tax credit.

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Home Improvement

Wess Galyon

2009-04-01 14:39:00

Question: What are some of the qualifications for first time home buyers?

Answer: In its efforts to stimulate the economy and revive the housing market, Congress has enacted legislation providing a tax credit of up to $8,000 for first-time home buyers. But time is of the essence for buyers who want to take advantage of this opportunity. Only homes purchased on or after January 1, 2009 and before December 1, 2009 are eligible. Who is Eligible? •The $8,000 tax credit is available for the first time home buyers only. •The law defines “first time home buyer” as a buyer who has not owned a principal residence during the three year period prior to the purchase. •All U.S. citizens who file taxes are eligible to participate in the program. Payback Provisions •The tax credit is a true credit. It does not have to be repaid. •The only replacement requirement is if the home owner sold the home within three years after the purchase. Income Limits •Home buyers who file as single or head of household taxpayers can claim the full $8,000 credit if their modified adjusted gross income (MAGI) is less than $75,000. •For married couples filing a joint return, the income limit doubles to $150,000. •Single or head of household taxpayers who earn between $75,000 and $95,000 are eligible to receive a partial first time home buyer tax credit. •Married couples who earn between $150,000 and $170,000 are eligible to receive a partial first time home buyer tax credit. •The credit is not available for single taxpayers whose MAGI is greater than $95,000 and married couples with a MAGI that exceeds $170,000. Effective Dates for the Tax Credit •First time home buyers would receive an $8,000 tax credit for the purchase of any home on or after January 1, 2009 and before December 1, 2009. To qualify, you must actually close on the sale of the home during this period. Tax Credit is Refundable •A refundable credit means that if you pay less than $8,000 in federal income taxes, then the government will write you a check for the difference. •For example, if you owe $5,000 in federal income taxes, you would pay nothing to the IRS and receive a $3,000 payment from the government. •If you are due to receive a $1,000 tax refund from the government, your refund would grow to $9,000 ($1,000 plus $8,000 from the home buyer tax credit). •Buyers can take the tax credit on their 2008 and 2009 income tax return. Types of Homes that Qualify for the Tax Credit. •All homes, whether single family, townhomes or condominium apartments will qualify, provided that the home will be used as a principal residence and the buyer has not owned a principal residence in the prior three years. This also includes newly-constructed homes. Who is eligible to claim the tax credit? •Answer: First time home buyers purchasing any kind of home – new or resale—are eligible for the tax credit. To qualify for the tax credit, a home purchase must occur on or after January 1, 2009 and before December 1, 2009. For the purposes of the tax credit, the purchase date is the date when closing occurs and the title to the property transfers to the home owner. What’s the definition of a first time home buyer? •Answer: The law defines “first time home buyer” as a buyer who has not owned a principal residence during the 3 year period prior to the purchase. For married taxpayers, the law tests the homeownership history of both the home buyer and his/her spouse. For example, if you have not owned a home in the past three years but your spouse has owned a principal residence, neither you nor your spouse qualifies for the first time home buyer tax credit. However, unmarried joint purchasers may allocate the credit amount to any buyer who qualifies as a first time buyer, such as may occur if a parent jointly purchases a home with a son or daughter. Ownership of a vacation home or rental property not used as a principal residence does not disqualify a buyer as a first time home buyer. How is the amount of the tax credit determined? •The tax credit is equal to 10% of the home’s purchase price up to a maximum of $8,000. Are there any income limits for claiming the tax credit? •The tax credit amount is reduced for buyers with a modified adjusted gross income (MAGI) of more than $75,000 for single taxpayers and $150,000 for married taxpayers filing a joint return. The tax credit amount is reduced to zero for taxpayers with MAGI of more than $95,000 (single) or $170,000 (married) and is reduced proportionally for taxpayers with MAGI’s between these amounts.

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Home Improvement

Keith Bomholt

2009-02-01 14:22:00

Questions: What does HEPA mean? How does a HEPA Air Filtration System work? What can it do for my home?

Answer: HEPA stands for High Efficiency Particulate Arrestance. During World War II in the United States HEPA filters were first developed to stop the release of radioactive particles from the exhausts at nuclear reactor facilities and then later used in industrial, medical and military clean rooms where small particles might interfere with research or technology development. To qualify as a True HEPA filter, a standard created by the US Atomic Energy Commission, a filter must be able to remove 99.97 percent of all particles that are 0.3 microns in diameter or larger from the air. This means the filter can remove nearly all types of airborne allergens (e.g., pollen, mold) and many troublesome particles (e.g., tobacco smoke). True HEPA filters generally allow less airflow and cost more than other types of filters. A micron is 300 times smaller than the thickness of one human hair. HEPA filters work by forcefully pushing air through filters made of microscopic glass fibers. The glass is very thin, almost to the consistency of paper. As the fan brings the air through the HEPA filter, pathogens and other allergens are trapped in the filter and the air is released. The result of these trapped contaminants is fresh, clean air in your home or office. HEPA Air Filtration Systems can be purchased as a whole house system or portable units, which can be rolled from room to room. HEPA filters can last up to five years or longer. Before a HEPA Air Filtration System is installed the quality of air is measured to show the amount of contaminants in the air and then measured again after the installation. Most people are astounded at the difference in the quality of air and how much quality of life improves. Contaminants are indoors as well as outdoors. Everyone has a physical tolerance level for airborne chemicals and particulates. The higher the level of contaminants in the air, the quicker a person reaches their tolerance level. At that tipping point of tolerance the contaminants can damage the respiratory system and general health. Significant reduction of contaminants in the home can help the body recover from constant exposure to contaminants outside the home. The body can start on a road to well being inside a home with a HEPA Air Filtration System.

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Home Improvement

Wess Galyon

2009-02-01 11:16:00

Question: How is the housing market coming?

Answer: As the unexceptionably hot housing market has slowed down, buyers are seeking answers to lots of questions about how to find the right home. While the old saying about the three most important attributes being “location, location and location” still has some truth to it, today’s consumers are more savvy and more discerning. Location is only part of the equation: It’s also about conveniences and amenities. And for conveniences and amenities, it’s hard to beat a new home. Today, new homes are safer, more efficient, and more packed with popular features than ever. Safety. Technological advances mean that today’s homes are safer, because new homes take advantage of breakthroughs in building science. Many homes now have advanced electrical systems, hard wired smoke detectors, and fire-resistant construction details. Windows in patio doors and near stairways have tempered glass, which makes them less likely to cause injury if they break. Efficiency. Home builders also have a larger array of products and materials to enable them to make a home more energy-efficient. Many home builders participate in programs like ENERGYSTAR®, which promotes energy-efficient appliances. Green building is the hottest new building trend. Builders are placing homes to take the best advantage of sunlight and shade, and using a number of innovative products that make the home not just more energy efficient, but more functional in a variety of ways. Lifestyle. New home floor plans reflect what today’s home buyer wants: larger kitchens for family gatherings, ample storage space, and more bathrooms. Consumers prefer greater ceiling heights, more—and bigger—closets, walk-in showers with multiple heads, three-car garages, and outdoor entertainment spaces with fireplaces and grills. In fact, that’s a big reason why people seek new homes. Consumers want value, but they also want choices. They want to pick their carpet colors, their cabinet styles, their light fixtures and other design elements that help make a house their home. There is no question that housing market conditions vary over time and the decision to buy a home is a personal one. However, history has shown that the best time to buy a home has always been “today”, and today is no exception.

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Home Improvement

Wess Galyon

2008-12-01 14:57:00

Question: Is it a good time to buy a home that is on the market?

Answer: For those whose homeownership aspirations have been dampened or temporarily derailed by the housing and economic downturn—the people wondering if this is a good time to buy—the answer is simple: Yes. It’s a good time to buy. Today’s market, coupled with a temporary tax credit for first-time home buyers and near-record low mortgage interest rates, provides an unprecedented window of opportunity for prospective home buyers. In fact, there may never be another buyer’s market as good as today’s. Opportunity of a Lifetime for First-Time Buyers Even Congress thinks it’s a good time to buy a home as it demonstrated with enactment of a $7,500 federal tax credit for first-time home buyers. Single taxpayers with incomes up to $75,000 and married couples with incomes up to $150,000 qualify for the full tax credit. Partial credits of less than $7,500 are available for individual taxpayers with incomes up to $95,000 and for married taxpayers with incomes up to $170,000. But like so many of the good things in life, time is of the essence. Only homes purchased on or after April 9, 2008 and before July 1, 2009 are eligible for the tax credit, which works like an interest-free loan and must be repaid over a 15-year period. Detailed information about how the tax credit works is available at FederalHousingTaxCredit.com. Ample Inventory An outstanding selection is another reason that it’s a good time to buy. Available inventory provides buyers with a great choice of homes and a number of builders have inventory that is “move-in ready.” Attractive Pricing If there’s a silver lining to the housing downturn, it’s that homes are more affordable. Prices have moderated significantly in many areas, especially the high-flying major markets where they increased the most during the boom that recently occurred in many parts of the country. In the greater Wichita area, prices have not declined, which means the benefit of investing in a new home today makes even more sense than ever. Low Interest Rates Like inventory and pricing, mortgage interest rates are at very favorable levels and mortgage money is available through area lenders, and qualified buyers should not have trouble getting financing. For several years, mortgage rates have been near record lows. But rates can, and do, change. No one is predicting that rates will suddenly surge upward, but they don’t have to increase much for monthly mortgage payments to rise from affordable to prohibitive. Greener and Better With high energy costs near the top of consumer concerns, it’s good to know that “new homes today are more energy and resource-efficient than ever before.” Through the use of new materials and construction techniques, today’s homes are built twice as energy efficient as new homes a generation ago, making them more affordable to own and operate. Benefits for Buyers Home ownership also provides important benefits to owners and to the nation. Tax Benefits: For Home Owners Only Unique tax benefits that apply only to housing also help lower the cost of home ownership. Both mortgage interest and property taxes are deductible. Moreover, profits of up to $500,000 on the sale of a principal residence (or $250,000 for a single owner) are excluded from tax on capital gains. The Power of Leveraging Leveraging is another advantage of home ownership. A buyer can purchase a home and receive the benefits of home ownership with a cash downpayment that is only a fraction—as little as 10 percent or less—of the total purchase price. However, the buyer’s return is based on the property’s total value. This is called leveraging, and it makes the rate of return on a home purchase much greater than on another investment with the same value where the buyer must put up the entire purchase price. If a buyer makes a downpayment of $15,000 on a $200,000 home and the home’s value increases to $205,000, then the home owner’s equity (the value of the home minus mortgage debt) has increased from $15,000 to $20,000. That’s about a 33 percent increase. Building Personal Wealth For most Americans, home ownership is a primary source of net worth and an important step in accumulating personal wealth and assuring financial security. Today, even though property values have declined in some markets, Americans have a total of $9 trillion in equity in their homes, and for most Americans, home equity represents the largest share of their net worth. There really is No Place like Home Despite the positive financial aspects of home ownership, a home cannot be valued in monetary terms alone because it is so much more than just an investment. Not only can home ownership be a stepping stone to greater financial security, it provides a permanent place to call home and great personal satisfaction. Academic research shows that home ownership results in a wide range of social benefits. Moreover, benefits aren’t limited to individual households. Home ownership strengthens both the nation’s people and its communities. It is truly a cornerstone of the American way of life. What About the ‘What Ifs’? Given the ongoing turmoil in the housing and financial markets, many people who want to buy homes are sitting on the fence, either waiting for the market to bottom out or fearing that it never will. So what is the chance that the market will continue to decline, prices will continue to drop and a home purchased today will be worth less a year from now? Of course, no one can know for sure what will happen a month, six months or a year from now. Housing is predictably cyclical, but the current housing slump has already lasted longer than previous downturns. Moreover, timing the market is a strategy that rarely works; by the time it’s clear that a market has turned around, it’s too late to take best advantage of the conditions at the bottom. It’s also important to remember that home prices have not declined equally in all areas. The Wichita Area market has preformed very well with property values holding and trending upward.

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Home Improvement

Howard McDaniel

2008-07-01 15:11:00

Question: As my parents get older what changes can I or do I need to make to insure my folks live in the safest environment possible?

Answer: For an elderly person, the home can be a dangerous place, with accidents waiting to happen. But smart ways of forestalling accidents need not wait. They can be quick, easy and inexpensive. Keep in mind that it may not be necessary to make all of the suggested changes. Remember their home is a personal and precious environment. As you go through this checklist, some of the changes you make may impact your surroundings positively, and some may affect you in ways that may be inconvenient or undesirable. It is possible, however, to strike a balance. Caregivers can make adaptations that modify and simplify without severely disrupting the home. A safe home can be a less stressful home for the person with Alzheimer’s, the caregiver, and family members. You don’t have to make these changes alone. You may want to enlist the help of a friend, professional, or community service such as the Alzheimer’s Association. In general, most people experience decreased mobility as they age. Even if a parent doesn’t use a walker or a wheelchair, he or she may move slower. Older adults also commonly have reduced strength and stamina. Vision, hearing and the sense of smell also often decrease as you get older. Keep these in mind as you consider home safety changes to your home. Keep in mind that it may not be necessary to make all of the suggested changes... It is important, however, to re-evaluate home safety periodically as behavior and abilities change. But, in general, here are some easy ways to make the home safer for older adults. Remove throw rugs. Unless they’re attached firmly to the floor, remove them from their home. Loose scatter rugs are easy to snag a toe on and are the cause of many falls. Lighting is important, a good, bright light is essential to helping the elderly see their way inside and outside their home, reducing the risk that they’ll fall. A bright lit kitchen and work area reduces the risk of burns and cuts. Use at least 60-watt bulbs in most rooms and at least 100-watt bulbs for reading. Also place night lights throughout key pathways in the home, for instance the route to the bathroom. If your parents will use stairs, make sure the staircase is free of clutter and brightly lit. Consider ways to make the steps easier to see. One idea - use brightly colored electrical tape to mark the edge of each step. Also, a sunlit window at the top or bottom of a staircase can cause glare, making it more difficult to see the steps. Draw the window shade and brighten the overhead lighting. Eliminate electrical cords, move lamps and other appliances closer to the walls so that electrical cords don’t extend into traffic areas. Cords may be difficult to see by older adults with low vision and could be a tripping hazard. If you must extend a cord across an area where your parents’ will walk, use tape to secure the cord to the floor and attract attention to it. Don’t cover the cord with a rug. Here’s a simple one but often over looked. Rearrange the furniture; move low furniture, such as coffee tables, out of high-traffic areas. This can help reduce falls, as items closer to the floor are harder to see especially for the elderly. Another consideration when you’re rearranging, move chairs closer together. This can make conversation easier if your parents have difficulty hearing. Lower the water temperature, most hot water heaters are set at 150°F - hot enough to scald within seconds. If you have access to your water heater, turn the temperature down to 120°F or the low setting. If you can’t adjust the water heater, consider faucets and valves that prevent scalding - for instance, when someone flushes the toilet while you’re in the shower. Bathrooms are probably the most common area in the house for falls. Use bath-mats Non-slip mats and strips applied to the floor of the bathtub or shower will reduce the risk of falls. A wet floor can be just as slippery as the tub, so use a bath mat or textured strip outside the shower, too. Considering Grab bars in the shower and around the toilet could make the bathroom even safer. Adjust the chair cushions, getting out of a soft-cushioned or low chair can prove challenging. Put a board under soft cushions. Raise the height of a chair by placing a pillow or folded blanket on top of the seat. Another big area of concern is the outside approaches to the house. Keep steps sturdy and textured to prevent falls in wet or icy weather. Mark the edges of steps with bright or reflective tape. This is very important; consider a ramp with handrails into the home rather than steps. Place a small bench or table by the entry door to hold parcels while unlocking the door. Make sure outside lighting is adequate. Light sensors that turn on lights automatically as you approach the house are available and may be useful. They also may be used in other parts of the home. Make sure to prune bushes and foliage well away from walkways and doorways. Also eliminate uneven surfaces or walkways, hoses, or other objects that may cause a person to trip. You may even want to consider a NO SOLICITING sign for the front gate or door. Remember these are just a few suggestions, your parent’s needs may vary, and a good quality contractor or hardware stores are other great resources for making their home safe

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Home Improvement

Howard McDaniel

2008-07-01 15:11:00

Question: I have a fairly large home improvement project, and was wondering if I should tackle it myself or hire it done. If I do it myself what are something’s I need to watch out for?

Answer: Ever heard the phrase “Measure Twice - Cut Only Once” or “Lefty-Loosey – Righty Tighty? Well there’s a lot more involved to avoid costly mistakes with every home improvement project. You may learn from your own mistakes, but it’s better to learn from the mistakes of others. Here are some thing’s to consider. Not understanding or not researching building codes and obtaining permits. Some people will shy away from obtaining permits because they worry about the expense or think they don’t need a permit. Some cities issue permits based on political reasons, and some may appear unnecessary, but get a permit anyway, because it’s against the law if you refuse to comply and it’s required. Here are more reasons: Inspectors will help to ensure the job is done correctly and to code. Many buyers don’t want to buy a home that has had work done without a permit. If your neighbor reports you to the city and an inspector discovers you have completed work without a permit, you might be required to tear it apart and start over. Failure to Prepare a Written Work Plan. Eager do it yourselfers often think it will take less time to complete a job than is necessary. Prepare a calendar, day-by-day, outlining each portion of your rehab and how many hours it will take to complete. This will keep you on a tight schedule and give you a realistic time frame from start to finish. For example, a tiling job cannot be completed in one day. First, the mastic is applied, tiles are cut and laid. The area needs to cure and dry at least 24 hours. After the tiles are set, you will grout. You still need to wait another day to walk on it. Under Budgeting The adage is to figure your cost and triple it. That’s really not necessary, but do itemize every scrap of material in your estimates, including small items such as the cost of nails, staples, fiberglass tape or joint compound. It all adds up. Then account for approximately 15% overage of materials for waste. Another good piece of advice is to add another 30% for price increases, especially if you’re not buying all your materials at once. Tackling Jobs for which you are Unqualified It makes sense, if you’re afraid of heights or unsteady in high places, don’t try to install a roof. Remember another phrase “Life is short and then you die”. Hire somebody else to do it. Before you tackle a job, think about the job from the start, and all the way through to its completion. You don’t want to reach the halfway mark and discover you can’t finish. Some projects require more than one person. It’s hard to hang drywall on a ceiling by yourself. Pay attention to the weight you lift; it can play havoc on your back or throw you off balance. Not Planning for the Unexpected You have no idea when you tear open a wall what you will find. For example, you could find termites or beetles. A pest infestation will require eradication and / or structural repair. You may discover wiring that needs to be replaced, pipes that need to be rerouted or moisture problems that have rotted away joists or sill plates. Pad your budget and allow yourself a bit of flexibility in your work schedule to accommodate these not-so-nice surprises. Waiving a Home Inspection Always, always, always get a home inspection when you buy. And hire a qualified and accredited individual to perform the inspection -- not your Uncle Joe or your buddy contractor, get a real inspector. Be there for the inspection and ask questions. Pay close attention to safety issues. Be an informed buyer. If the inspector calls for further inspection by another professional contractor, find out if the inspector is telling you there could be a serious issue or if the inspector isn’t licensed to address that issue. There is a difference. Using the Wrong Tools This is probably where it makes the most sense when it comes to hiring a professional to do your work. When it comes to tools, you can’t go wrong by buying professional tools that are made to perform specific functions but they are extremely expensive. While you can get by using a drywall gun to screw deck boards to a joist, you can’t use a hacksaw to make precise miter cuts with any accuracy or a 9-volt cordless drill to drive six-inch screws through a beam. Buying Cheap Materials Don’t skimp. You can buy ceramic tile for 50 cents a square foot, but it will probably crack. Buyers will notice if you install quarter-inch granite on counters or buy plastic baseboards. You want the quality of your work to shine throughout the house. If you shop carefully and negotiate prices, you can purchase brand-name merchandise for less. Then you can advertise those manufacturer names in your marketing materials, and buyers will never know how much you paid. Better yet, they won’t be calling you after escrow closes to complain that your new dishwasher just dumped water all over the floor. Under Estimating the Resale Value Do-it- yourselfers like to use a rule of thumb that says they can sell a house for two to three times more than the cost of its improvements, plus its acquisition price. That formula doesn’t work all the time. It’s far wiser to check the comparable sales for similar homes in the neighborhood to determine if your improvements are in line with other homes in that area. You don’t want to over-improve. Plan for the bottom of those comparable sales as a return on your investment. Anything you make above that figure is gravy.

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Home Improvement

Howard McDaniel

2008-06-01 13:45:00

Question: Which home improvements give you the best/worst return on investment? I was told that the bathroom and kitchen are the most valuable when it comes to improvements, is this true?

Answer: You may be surprised to learn which home improvement projects may make your home more difficult to sell, like adding a pool. Find out if your custom look will hurt your home value. In today’s housing market, some home improvements pay off more by increasing your home’s value, while others will do very little to improve it. For the most part updating your kitchen and bathrooms are always a good solid investment that can offer the best home improvement value. Remodeling Your Kitchen The average return-on-investment for improvements to the kitchen ranges from about 80 percent to 93 percent with average costs at $15,000 and up. Therefore the kitchen is the most important room in the house since it’s where much of the family interaction occurs. If you don’t know where to start, try adding new tile flooring, re-facing old cabinets, and/or updating appliances to new energy efficient models. Remodeling Your Bathroom Like the kitchen, bathroom renovations can yield a very high return, that can net somewhere between 85 to 90 percent, with costs starting around $10,000. Adding a complete new bathroom can return as much as 85 percent, especially if you only have one bathroom to start with. It’s much more difficult to sell a home with only one bathroom, so adding a second bath can make your home significantly easier to sell. Some other good improvements could include installing double sinks, tile floors and new bath fixtures and faucets. Other Good Home Improvements Making home improvements can be a big undertaking. Larger improvements could include adding a fireplace, building a deck or patio, or adding a new heating or cooling system. However, you don’t have to spend huge bucks to upgrade the look of your home. Smaller, less expensive improvements could include replacing old doors or installing a ceiling fan. Cosmetic improvements such as landscaping can also go a long way in the minds of prospective buyers. Home Improvements to Avoid There are some improvements that rarely pay off, such as adding a swimming pool. These improvements are fine if you and your family will enjoy them, but keep in mind that they rarely increase the value of your home. They may even make your home more difficult to sell. Also remember you should never over build, meaning you should avoid expensive improvements that go beyond what is typically found in your neighborhood. You don’t have to cut corners, but owning the most expensive home on your block can make it more difficult when it comes time to sell your home. One last thing to remember, avoid getting too fancy. Everyone’s tastes are different, so choosing colors and materials that appeal to a broader range of people will make it easier when you need to sell.

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Home Improvement

Joe Gassmann

2008-04-01 12:10:00

Question: With the spring rains rapidly approaching, what can I do to help with my leaking basement?

Answer: When growing up I can remember my parents always had issues with our basement leaking, which would happen almost every spring. After consulting with a plumber, we learned that there are two common reasons for leaking basements, and their solutions are amazingly simple. Most of the time, when your basement is leaking, it is caused by some form of drainage problem outside the home, and not with anything underneath or inside the basement itself. Older basements are often shoddily constructed and are have thin walls and multiple cracks. Poor drainage outside can easily penetrate floors and walls, causing water damage and annoying leaks. In most cases, this means your basement is leaking because the soil surrounding your foundation and the walls of your basement have become overly saturated. This often occurs after a long rainy season, particularly if it was preceded by a drought. You won’t notice the leaks as much when the climate is dry, but soil packed deep into the ground can take months to dry up. The first reason your basement is leaking might have to do with your gutter system. Because old and poorly installed gutters tend to promote pooling water, you’ll find a build-up of standing water around the foundation of your home. With nowhere else to go, the water will leak into your basement, eventually penetrating the walls and causing serious damage. To fix a leaking basement caused by gutters, you probably need to replace them. If possible, make sure that spouts send water at least four feet away from your foundation, and don’t use heavy steel gutters that can promote clogging. Before rainy seasons begin, clean out all your gutters and make sure no mud or leaves might clog the flow of water. This should stop much of the pooling action that is causing your basement to leak It is also a good idea to give the water a direction, which leads me to the second reason your basement might be leaking. If water doesn’t have a direction in which to flow, it will again settle against the foundation of your home and find its way into the lowest chamber: the basement. To solve this, you need to make sure that there is at least a small grade of slope from your home to the street, allowing for smooth water flow. To do this, you’ll need to use compact fill dirt to raise the ground level next to the foundation. You can cover it with top soil or mulch, but don’t use top soil for the entire project. Unfortunately, top soil is meant to retain water, which won’t fix a leaking basement. You can increase the chances of stopping leaks in your basement by decreasing the amount of water that comes near your house. To do this, you can install PVC drain pipes from your gutters to the ground next to your foundation, then joint it with another PVC pipe that flows underground to the street. You’ll have to check with your homeowners’ association and local building code to find out if you need a permit to do this. If your basement is still leaking after you’ve completed these tasks, you might want to call a plumber. The reason for the leaks might be in your interior plumbing rather than from an outside source.

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Home Improvement

Howard McDaniel

2008-04-01 12:10:00

Question: Outdoor projects, do they help with increasing the value of your home?

Answer: Only you can decide whether the project you undertake is worth the time, effort and expense. After all, it’s your home; you know best. You should be comfortable in it. It should offer a welcome respite from the everyday pressures of modern living. So, if you have the time, the cash and the desire to turn your vision of the ideal home into reality, go for it! But, as you might imagine, not all home-improvement projects will translate into added value for your home. It’s an important factor to keep in mind, especially if you know your family will outgrow the home or you know you won’t spend a great deal of time there. Considering an in-ground pool or spa? Great, they’re a lot of fun! Just don’t expect an equal return on your investment. Also on the upper end of home improvement are projects such as room additions and remodels, new roofs and windows. Measured by the standards of most home-improvement projects, these are major endeavors that require a significant investment of money, time and patience. If you want to protect the investment you’ve made in your home, you should carefully weigh the pros and cons of major upgrades relative to your neighborhood and community. Another consideration is the condition of the local real estate market. If it’s on the way up, as it has been chances increase that you’ll recoup most or all of your investment. Of course, in a declining real estate market, the opposite would likely be the case Outdoor Projects So, if you’re feeling a little ambitious, maybe you’d like to shield that wide-open patio from the sun and the elements. Maybe you would like a deck, Gazebo or both. Maybe you need a block wall, or a retaining wall for that out-of-control backyard slope. Whatever it is you need, if you’re attaching something to the house, getting too cozy with the neighbor’s lot line or seriously altering the contours of your property, it would be a smart move to go over your improvement desires with the appropriate government agency. Decks - Nothing expands outdoor space like a deck, but building one yourself can be expensive, time-consuming and a real pain, right? Not necessarily, as long as you have home-improvement skills that are just slightly above average. And you can save as much as half the cost by building your own deck. Most home centers and lumber yards offer free design services that will help you figure out the structural issues. They’ll also help you determine how much lumber and what kind and sizes you’ll need. Patio covers – both shaded and covered – are a familiar back-yard sight throughout the country. If you’re handy and know the difference between a hammer and Hummer, you could theoretically tackle a project like this yourself. But if you’re allergic to splinters and frustration, your best bet would be to hire a professional contractor for both of these projects. Plus, it will look so much better. Only you can make the final decision for the home improvement that best fits you, and it probably won’t be based purely on financial return – nor should it be. Modifying your home to suit you can be an emotional experience. But you should factor the potential return into your ultimate decision. If return on investment is important to you, ask a real estate professional for the selling prices of homes comparable to yours and with the upgrades you are considering adding.

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Home Improvement

Howard McDaniel

2008-04-01 11:13:00

Question: What are some of the most practical updates for my home, that will increase its value looks, and comfort?

Answer: A home is a place that should instill comfort and safety, and warm your heart and protect your family. Your house does a lot for you, but what can you do for your house in response? Taking care of it and regularly updating it might be a good thankful favor. When it comes to windows and doors it is well-known that they are subject to deterioration because of constant usage and exposure to the harsh weather conditions. As time goes by, weather-stripping, hardware and the door and window frame materials can weaken or get broken. Thoughtful and practical homeowners will turn their attention to this particular part of a window or door unit, for the reason that repairs can be cheap, but may not give good and long-lasting results. Window and door replacement can be costly, but it’s worth noting that tighter and more energy efficient windows and doors will reduce the heating load on your house, trim down heating costs, guarantee an easy maintenance and improve living space by making it look renovated and stylish - the fact which will normally boost the value of your house. There are many choices available to homeowners who want to improve or make changes to the windows or doors in their homes. Spending some time to examine your needs and the options that are available is the right way to start to plan for your renovation or repair job. Before getting new windows and doors it is strongly recommended that you assess the current condition of the old ones. Existing damage may cause siding problems or some other concern. If not corrected, a pre-existing problem will begin damaging your new windows and doors as soon as they are installed. After you have identified the goals of your window and door installation project the matter comes to the choice of the best material type your new items are to be made of. If you are interested in saving energy costs and increasing efficiency, there are window and door types that favor this consideration. Such material as vinyl can last indefinitely – vinyl windows, for instance, are less costly but resist time and weather extremes much longer. In fact, there is a lot to consider before you start remodeling your house, but it is certain that windows replacement and new door installation will become a good investment. Moreover, renovating is an ideal opportunity to make your house healthier for you, the community and the environment.

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Home Improvement

Joe Gassmann

2008-03-01 09:38:00

Question: What are some good tips on treating my deck and outdoor furniture to help protect my investment?

Answer: You’re right on the money. Summer will soon be upon us, and it’s time for all of us to “hit the deck.” ?The warm weather brings us all outside to throw some steaks on the grill or to gather for social functions with friends and family. And, you are right again in it being a good time to take a look at your pressure treated wood deck and check for maintenance needs. Most decks are constructed of pressure treated wood. New decks have a normal, yellow-green look to them that will fade in time to a silvery color. It is natural for wood to dry out and crack as it ages. Sealing the wood on your deck is highly recommended to extend the life of your pressure treated wood. When water enters the wood and then dries out, it can cause the wood to expand and contract which leads to splitting and cracking. Sealing your deck can help prevent this from happening. Many people have one main question regarding sealing their deck, how do they know when it is needed. A very simple test is this, pour some water on the pressure treated wood of your deck. If the moisture “beads up” it is not time to reseal the wood on your deck. However, if the area becomes a large dark mark on the surface, it is time to head to the hardware store! Have you been thinking about painting or staining your deck to add to its beauty? Not only does stain enhance the appearance of your deck, it also lubricates the wood to help protect it from the elements. Most manufacturers recommend waiting two to three months in order to allow the wood to cure. The best time to seal or paint your deck is in the early spring when temperatures are consistent and without it becoming too hot or too cold outside. As a matter of safety, periodically check your deck to make sure everything is secure. Check the railings, steps, and posts. When repairing, make sure to not use the same nail hole twice. Keep in mind that decks are not designed to accommodate the excessive weight of items such as hot tubs, kiddy pools, and larger children’s toys. In order to make your deck safer for those needs please make sure you take the appropriate design steps to reinforce your deck’s capabilities. Don’t forget the furniture. Americans spend more than $500 million on unfinished exterior furniture every year, and most choose the raw furniture to save money, but most also ruin their investment by not protecting outdoor furniture properly. Here is what you should keep in mind before starting this project: Always have two work areas: a preparation area and a finishing area. It is important that you not try to stain or paint the piece in the same area where you have just sanded. Sanding will create a lot of dust and you want to prevent kicking up dust onto the furniture while you are staining and varnishing it. Look for knots. Most people know what a knot looks like, but they do not know how to tell the good from the bad. A knot is where a branch was once hooked to the tree. A black knot means that it was harvested when it was dead. That is not a good piece of wood. The problem with knots is that they loosen and fall out. A brown knot is okay as long as it doesn’t have cracks in it. Sometimes knots add character. If your furniture has “bad” knots, you will need to use an epoxy glue to permanently secure it. Prepare the surface. There are two ways to protect unfinished exterior furniture. You can either stain and varnish it or paint it. The one you choose depends on your preference. The reason to stain is to color product to match something. The varnish is clear coating to protect wood and stain from weathering elements. The paint serves the same purpose, but is a quicker process. You have more color options with paint. Follow the steps below to stain and varnish: • Check for knots • Lightly sand entire piece with palm sander or hand sander • Take linen cloth and wipe piece •Wipe with “tack” cloth (a cheese cloth with a tacky texture). The “tack” cloth picks up lint pieces that could show through varnish. • Apply coat of wood conditioner. When you have wood that has parts that have been cut across the grain (like on the ends), you have to use wood conditioner. If you don’t use wood conditioner, you risk having areas that look darker, which means the stain has absorbed faster in that spot. Let set for an hour or two. • Rub the piece with emory cloth, which is a fine sand paper, or steel wool. This process will remove burrs that have been caused by wood conditioner. • Wipe again with tack cloth. Apply a coat of stain. Let set overnight. (You can come back later - 1 week or 1 month) Apply varnish. Use “spar” varnish, which is made for exteriors. You can’t use interior varnish because it will blister outside. Total work time is 1-2 hours. However, when you consider the drying time, it’s a weekend project. The first seven steps are the same to finish wood with paint. Once you move the item to the finishing area, follow the steps below: Apply one coat of exterior primer paint and let set for a few hours. Primer is important because it gives you better adhesion for paint and seals wood. A good tip is to make sure the primer is tinted within a couple of shades of paint color for easier coverage. If primer is white - which it normally is - and your paint is dark, you may have to apply several coats. Apply one coat of paint. Make sure you use exterior paint. Generally, it is a good idea to freshen up your outdoor furniture with a coat of varnish (no need to stain again) or paint every 3 to 5 years. This may vary depending on whether you bring the furniture in during off-seasons.

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Home Improvement

Howard McDaniel

2008-03-01 09:38:00

Question: Is it too soon to be thinking of air conditioner service?

Answer: No, in fact I recommend servicing it early as you may have some unknowing repairs due to the long winter months, and you would not want to be making last minute upgrades or repairs after the weather has already turned hot. Remember having your equipment serviced on an annual basis can prolong the life of your equipment and save you money on operating costs. Cleaning/servicing your air conditioner can save you as much as 25% on A/C operating costs. Besides cleaning your air conditioner, a Qualified Technician will check the system to insure that it is operating correctly. Remember older air conditioners typically mean higher energy bills. If your air conditioner needs frequent repairs it may not be properly suited for your home. You need a heating ventilation and air-conditioning (HVAC) specialist to assess your current system. If your cooling bills continue to rise, your cooling system may be working inefficiently. Some of the cost of new air conditioning systems will be offset by lower energy bills. If some of the rooms in your home are either too hot or too cold, it could be your air conditioning equipment manufacturing or functioning inefficiently, or it could be a result of problems with your ducts or inadequate insulation. If you have problems with humidity, your air conditioning equipment may be defective or otherwise performing inadequately or you may have leaky ductwork, which can be corrected by a qualified HVAC Contractor. If there is a lot of noise coming from your air conditioning unit, there may be a problem with its indoor coil or your duct system may be too small. “A bigger system is not always better.” The most important factor when purchasing a central air conditioning system is that it’s the appropriate size! Bigger is not necessarily better. If your system is too big, it won’t be as effective at dehumidifying, which will make your home feel hotter. Also, because oversized systems cycle on and off more frequently then they should, they tend to break down more often, cost more to maintain wear out faster. “Older air conditioners typically mean higher energy bills.” An air conditioning system that is too small won’t be able to cool your house adequately. It will be overworked, use excessive electricity, run loudly and be prone to pre mature failure. It may even freeze over on the warmest days.An Anderson Air professional installer is trained to consider various factors that determine the right size of air conditioning equipment to meet the specific needs of your home - beyond square footage. Factors include the age of the house, its size, how many stories it has, how well it’s insulated, the number and quality of windows, and even local energy rates. They should use industry-standard “Manual J” and “Manual S” sizing calculations; however their years of experience can be used to modify the results. They may take into account other factors such as the shade effect of trees or the positioning of the windows on the house, to further inform their recommendations. “Go for Thirteen SEER or above.” To keep it simple, the higher the SEER value, the more energy-efficient is the system. Right now, a SEER of Ten is the lowest rating of an air conditioner allowed to be sold by law. However, on January 26, 2006 the law requires a minimum mandatory SEER rating of Thirteen. Aside from its better energy efficiency (I.e. lower cooling bills) and less damage to the environment, further down the road you won’t have the difficulty and increased expense of trying to find parts for an outdated system. “Energy Star means energy-efficient.” To ensure you are getting a unit with exceptional energy efficiency, buy a unit with an Energy Star label affixed. Energy Star is a program developed jointly by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Department of Energy to promote the use of appliances that reduce energy consumption and have less negative impact on the environment. According to the EPA, an air conditioner that qualifies for Energy Star, which is properly sized and installed, with a properly sealed duct system, will save you Twenty percent in energy cost compared to other new, conventional systems.

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Home Improvement

Howard McDaniel

2008-02-01 14:05:00

I was considering buying a humidifier, but do I really need one?

Yes, humidifiers are most commonly used in homes to relieve physical discomforts such as a dry nose, throat, lips, and skin. They add moisture to dry air that helps alleviate common problems brought on by heating cold air, such as static electricity, peeling wallpaper, and cracks in paint and furniture. However, excess moisture can encourage the growth of biological organisms in the home. These organisms include dust mites, which are microscopic animals that produce materials causing allergic reactions to household dust, and molds. Four types commonly used in residential homes are as follows: • Ultrasonic, which create a cool mist by means of ultrasonic sound vibrations. • Impeller, or “cool mist,” which produce a cool mist by means of a high speed rotating disk. • Evaporative, which transmit moisture into the air invisibly by using a fan to blow air through a moistened absorbent material, such as a belt, wick, or filter. • Steam vaporizer, which create steam by heating water with an electrical heating element or electrodes. “Warm mist” humidifiers are a type of steam vaporizer humidifier in which the steam is cooled before exiting the machine. Studies by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) have shown that ultrasonic and impeller (or “cool mist”) humidifiers can disperse materials, such as microorganisms and minerals, from their water tanks into indoor air. At present, only limited information is available on the growth of microorganisms and the dispersal of microorganisms and minerals by home humidifiers. Please remember that proper care and cleaning of ultrasonic or impeller humidifiers is important for reducing potential exposures to microorganisms, such as bacteria and molds. Microorganisms often grow in humidifiers which are equipped with tanks containing standing water. Breathing air containing these pollutants has been implicated as causing a certain type of inflammation of the lungs. The young, the elderly, and those people with lung diseases or respiratory allergies may be particularly susceptible to certain types of airborne pollutants. However, if you follow the recommendations for the use and care by the manufacturer of your home humidifier the potential for dispersal of microorganisms and minerals from your humidifier should be greatly reduced. Recommendations for Use and Care It is important to use a humidifier only when conditions require it, to use the correct moisture setting for existing conditions, and to clean it thoroughly. The possible health effects resulting from the dispersal of microorganisms and minerals by home humidifiers are not fully understood. However, it may be prudent to reduce the potential for personal exposures to these materials by taking the following precautions, particularly when using ultrasonic and impeller humidifiers. • Empty the tank, wipe all surfaces dry, and refill the water in portable humidifiers daily to reduce any growth of microorganisms; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for changing water in console humidifiers. Be sure you unplug the unit from the electrical socket first. • Use water with low mineral content to prevent the build-up of scale and the dispersal of minerals into the air. • Clean portable humidifiers every third day. Empty the tank and use a brush or other scrubber to clean it. Remove any scale, deposits, or film that has formed on the sides of the tank or on interior surfaces, and wipe all surfaces dry. Again, be sure you unplug the unit. • Follow the manufacturer’s suggestions on the use of cleaning products or disinfectants. In the absence of specific recommendations, clean all surfaces coming in contact with water with a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide. If you use any cleaning or disinfecting agent, rinse the tank thoroughly with several changes of tap water to prevent dispersal of chemicals into the air during use. • Follow the manufacturer’s directions on cleaning and maintaining console and central (furnace mounted) humidifiers. In particular, if the humidifier contains a tank, do not allow water to stand in the tank for extended periods of time, and keep the water clean. • Keep steam vaporizer humidifiers out of the reach of children. Steam and boiling water may cause burns. • Do not humidify to indoor relative humidity levels exceeding 50 percent. Higher humidity levels may encourage the growth of biological organisms in the home. Hygrometers, available at local hardware stores, may be used to measure humidity levels. Some humidifiers contain a built-in humidistat which may be adjusted to the proper moisture level. If water condenses on windows, walls, or pictures, either relocate the humidifier, lower its humidistat setting, or reduce its use. • Do not permit the area around the humidifier to become damp or wet. If dampness occurs, turn the output volume of the humidifier down. If the humidifier output volume cannot be turned down, use the humidifier intermittently. Do not allow absorbent materials, such as carpeting, drapes, or table cloths, to become damp. • Follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding the use, maintenance, and replacement of any materials supplied with the humidifier. Use appropriate materials as recommended by the product manufacturer. • Clean the humidifier, at the end of the humidifying season or when the product will not be used frequently. Before storage, make sure all the parts are dry. Dispose of all used demineralization cartridges, cassettes, or filters. Store the unit in a dry location. After storage, clean the unit again and remove any dust on the outside. • Stop using your humidifier and contact your physician if you have respiratory symptoms which you believe are associated with periods of use of your home humidifier, even if you are following maintenance directions.

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Home Improvement

Joe Gassmann

2008-02-01 10:12:00

Can someone please give me some down to earth information that I can understand on fireplaces and their efficiency?

Answer: The charm and atmosphere and warm cozy glow are strong reasons to live with a fireplace. They are pleasant but notoriously inefficient. A fireplace, when not in use, can allow enough room air to escape up the chimney to have a negative net efficiency. Even in use, 90% of the heat produced by the fire goes up the chimney and only 10% is radiated into the room. Another problem is that the air which supports combustion, if drawn from the room, must be replaced by cold outside air. A fireplace can take 5 to 10 times more air just for burning than is required for home ventilation. Using this preheated air to burn the wood costs many fuel dollars. Outside Air Inlet Until recently, most of our homes were open enough to let the fireplace draw outside air in through the cracks and windows and doors that don’t fit properly. But now weather-stripping, caulking and moisture barriers have sealed up these holes. Tightly constructed houses probably do not permit enough air replacement to supply the chimney draft and a partial vacuum may result, pulling smoke back into the room. A simple solution is to create an outside air inlet directly into the combustion area to supply the oxygen needed for burning. The inlet could come from the basement, the crawl space or directly from outside. In existing fireplaces, you may be able to supply outside air by opening the ash dump door slightly. Glass or Metal Doors Another way to improve the efficiency of your fireplace is to limit the available oxygen or control the oxygen flow by the use of glass or metal doors. Using such doors will control the intensity of the fire and slow the rush of heated air up the chimney. When you leave the fire to burn down and cannot as yet close the damper, as at bedtime, the door will help prevent heat loss. Glass doors will reduce the amount of radiant energy you’ll receive but controlling the rush of heated room air up the chimney will more than compensate for the loss. Additionally, the draft control allows the fuel to burn more completely. Heat Exchangers A third way to improve fireplace efficiency is to install a heat exchanger. These are available in many forms. Some are simple structures, called radiant grates, designed to hold the burning logs in a way to increase the radiant exposure. Heat circulation units are another classification of exchangers. Most of these are on the fireplace floor below the fire-grate and the burning logs. In some units, the fire is built directly on ducts which take the place of the grate. Air moves from the room under the fire and back into the room by convection or by fans. The ducts can be simple hollow C-shaped tubes or elaborate systems with blowers or even steam heating systems. Some units extract the heat from the top of the fire or above it. Hot gases flow around and over them. Proponents of these systems claim they are better because they do not take the heat from the fire’s core and thus do not reduce burning efficiency. They take many forms: C-shaped tubes, grid patterns, pipes and units that heat water for supplementing other water heating or for radiator heating. When selecting and using heat exchangers, take heed of these precautions: • Heat exchangers should be sized to fit the fireplace. Be sure they do not interfere with the damper control arm. • Never install a blower exchanger with glass doors unless the doors are designed as part of the unit. The superheated air blowing on the glass can cause warping and even glass breakage. • Any unit that supports the fire can burn out, some faster than others. When small holes occur, the hot embers can drop into the air channel and be blown into the room causing a fire hazard. Be sure you purchase a unit that is well enough constructed to last. Inspect it often. Fireplace Insert Units If these methods do not gain the heat that you require, you might consider replacing the fireplace with a stove unit. Some units are designed to fit directly into the fireplace opening, giving you draft control and glass or metal doors. Some have heat exchange blowers incorporated into the design. Some stoves are designed to stand in front of the opening or partially in, partially out. You can also purchase an airtight stove, seal off the fireplace opening and use the chimney. You can evaluate these free-standing units on the same basis as stoves and heaters. Summary A conventional fireplace handles heat transfer three ways: by radiation, convection, and conduction. To improve the efficiency we need to maintain or increase the radiant heat, use the conducted heat fully and trap or return the convected heat to the room. Radiant heat is determined by the design of the fire box and opening and can be increased by use of special grates. Secondary radiant heat produced by convection through the fireplace walls is used better if all surfaces are within the house and not on an outside wall. Convection heat can be manipulated and controlled in various ways, including heat exchangers and glass enclosures. When adding a fireplace efficiency improver, the energy and money saved should be carefully weighed against the cost of the installed unit and the convenience change it might involve.

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Home Improvement

Howard McDaniel

2008-01-01 14:23:00

How does one determine the correct size and type of furnace for a home?

One of the two most important aspects in your selection of a heating system is proper sizing. The other of course is type. We will talk about that at another time. A properly sized heating system will provide a high level of comfort, while maintaining maximum efficiency. An oversized system will “short-cycle”, meaning that it will cycle on and off more frequently. Short cycling will limit your comfort due to the frequent on/off cycling and reduce the system operating life. Having said all of this keep in mind that with gas furnaces you don’t have to nail your requirement down to the very last BTU. Furnaces are typically sold in 20,000-25,000 Btu increments because the manufacturers know that with heating, you just need to be in ballpark in terms of how many Btu’s your home needs. If you are off by even as much as 20-25%, there is no real harm. A good rule of thumb is that if your heating requirement is about 10% or more above a given furnace’s capacity, go up to the next size furnace. So how do you select the proper system size for your home? Here are some options: 1. Have a contractor visit your home and provide an evaluation of the sizing needed. An experienced contractor in your area may be familiar with your home’s floor plan and already know the size needed based on previous evaluations and installations. Unfortunately, contractors will not always agree on the proper size for your home. If not, ask them what criteria they used in their evaluation. If they are using only square footage in the evaluation there is absolutely no assurance that the recommended system will function properly. Studies conducted by heating industry trade groups have repeatedly shown that over 50% of the furnaces sold in this country are dramatically oversized. By “dramatically oversized” we mean furnaces that produce up to twice the Btu’s actually required. Our industry is trying to correct this problem through training programs that emphasize proper sizing procedures. 2. If you are replacing an existing furnace within your home, locate the Btu capacity of your existing furnace by removing the top front service panel from the furnace. Usually, the “Btu input rating” and “Btu output rating” are listed on the nomenclature plate on the furnace behind the service door. Most older furnaces are 80% efficient so the output rating will be 80% of the input rating. For example if the rated input is 100,000 Btu, the output will be 80% of this figure, or 80,000 Btu’s. Next, measure the square footage of the heated area of your home. In warmer climates it should be roughly 25-30 Btu’s per square foot. In colder climates it should be around 40 Btu’s/sq. ft. and in the coldest climates around 45 Btu’s/sq. ft. If used properly, this method will provide the existing furnace sizing. Assuming it was sized properly to begin with the same size replacement system is a fairly safe bet. This method is more reliable if you have lived in your home for at least one or two heating seasons and have experienced the system performance first-hand. 3. Use a system size selector. This selector uses square footage and your climate zone to estimate the approximate sizing for your home. It is not scientific as it assumes all homes in each zone are approximately similar in construction type and insulation values. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and expect well thought out answers. Use your judgment when determining who really seems the most interested in providing you with straight-forward, valuable information.

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Home Improvement

Joe Gassmann

2008-01-01 11:17:00

QUESTION: What’s the real scoop on fireplace efficiencies?

ANSWER: The charm and atmosphere and warm cozy glow are strong reasons to live with a fireplace. They are pleasant but notoriously inefficient. A fireplace, when not in use, can allow enough room air to escape up the chimney to have a negative net efficiency. Even in use, 90% of the heat produced by the fire goes up the chimney and only 10% is radiated into the room. Another problem is that the air which supports combustion, if drawn from the room, must be replaced by cold outside air. A fireplace can take 5 to 10 times more air just for burning than is required for home ventilation. Using this preheated air to burn the wood costs many fuel dollars. Outside Air Inlet Until recently, most of our homes were open enough to let the fireplace draw outside air in through the cracks and miss-fitting windows and doors. But now weather-stripping, caulking and moisture barriers have sealed up these holes. Tightly constructed houses probably do not permit enough air replacement to supply the chimney draft and a partial vacuum may result, pulling smoke back into the room. A simple solution is to create an outside air inlet directly into the combustion area to supply the oxygen needed for burning. The most common and proper source is from an outside vent. In existing fireplaces, you may be able to supply outside air by opening the ash dump door slightly. Glass or Metal Doors Another way to improve the efficiency of your fireplace is to limit the available oxygen or control the oxygen flow by the use of glass or metal doors. Using such doors will control the intensity of the fire and slow the rush of heated air up the chimney. When you leave the fire to burn down and cannot as yet close the damper, as at bedtime, the door will help prevent heat loss. Glass doors will reduce the amount of radiant energy you’ll receive but controlling the rush of heated room air up the chimney will more than compensate for the loss. Additionally, the draft control allows the fuel to burn more completely. Heat Exchangers A third way to improve fireplace efficiency is to install a heat exchanger. These are available in many forms. Some are simple structures, called radiant grates, designed to hold the burning logs in a way to increase the radiant exposure. Heat circulation units are another classification of exchangers. Most of these are on the fireplace floor below the fire-grate and the burning logs. In some units, the fire is built directly on ducts which take the place of the grate. Air moves from the room under the fire and back into the room by convection or by fans. The ducts can be simple hollow C-shaped tubes or elaborate systems with blowers or even steam heating systems. Some units extract the heat from the top of the fire or above it. Hot gases flow around and over them. Proponents of these systems claim they are better because they do not take the heat from the fire’s core and thus do not reduce burning efficiency. They take many forms: C-shaped tubes, grid patterns, pipes and units that heat water for supplementing other water heating or for radiator heating. When selecting and using heat exchangers, take heed of these precautions: • Heat exchangers should be sized to fit the fireplace. Be sure they do not interfere with the damper control arm. • Never install a blower exchanger with glass doors unless the doors are designed as part of the unit. The superheated air blowing on the glass can cause warping and even glass breakage. • Any unit that supports the fire can burn out, some faster than others. When small holes occur, the hot embers can drop into the air channel and be blown into the room causing a fire hazard. Be sure you purchase a unit that is well enough constructed to last. Inspect it often. Fireplace Insert Units If these methods do not gain the heat that you require, you might consider replacing the fireplace with a stove unit. Some units are designed to fit directly into the fireplace opening, giving you draft control and glass or metal doors. Some have heat exchange blowers incorporated into the design. Some stoves are designed to stand in front of the opening or partially in, partially out. You can also purchase an airtight stove, seal off the fireplace opening and use the chimney. You can evaluate these free-standing units on the same basis as stoves and heaters. Summary A conventional fireplace handles heat transfer three ways: by radiation, convection, and conduction. To improve the efficiency we need to maintain or increase the radiant heat, use the conducted heat fully and trap or return the convected heat to the room. Radiant heat is determined by the design of the fire box and opening and can be increased by use of special grates. Secondary radiant heat produced by convection through the fireplace walls is used better if all surfaces are within the house and not on an outside wall. Convection heat can be manipulated and controlled in various ways, including heat exchangers and glass enclosures. When adding a fireplace efficiency improver, the energy and money saved should be carefully weighed against the cost of the installed unit and the convenience change it might involve.

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Home Improvement

Howard McDaniel

2007-12-01 10:04:00

We have had an extraordinary number of our employees get sick this Fall. For the longest time we just thought it was the flu. The other day I read about a company having a similar problem because of “Sick Building Syndrome”. What is this? What causes it?

“Sick Building Syndrome” (SBS) refers to those situations in which building occupants experience acute health and comfort effects that appear to be linked to time spent in a building, but no specific illness or cause can be identified. The complaints may be localized in a particular room or zone, or may be widespread throughout the building. Over the next few issues, we will talk about what it is, its causes, its effects and some remedies. Symptoms of SBS include: headache eye, nose, or throat irritation dry cough dry or itchy skin dizziness and nausea difficulty in concentrating fatigue sensitivity to odors With SBS, the cause of the symptoms is not known. Most of the complainants report relief soon after leaving the building. In contrast, the term Building Related Illness (BRI) is used when symptoms of diagnosable illness are identified and can be attributed directly to airborne building contaminants. Symptoms include: cough chest tightness fever and chills, muscle aches The symptoms can be clinically defined and have clearly identifiable causes. Complainants may require prolonged recovery times after leaving the building. It is important to note that complaints may result from other causes. These may include an illness contracted outside the building, acute sensitivity (e.g., allergies), job related stress or dissatisfaction, and other psychosocial factors. Nevertheless, studies show that symptoms may be caused or exacerbated by indoor air quality problems. A committee of the World Health Organization estimates that as many as 30 percent of new or remodeled buildings may have unusually high rates of sick building complaints. While this is often temporary, some buildings have long-term problems which linger, even after corrective action. The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) reports that poor ventilation is an important contributing factor in many sick building cases. It is generally agreed that poor indoor air can adversely affect employee health and productivity. These costs to industry have been estimated to be in the “tens of billions of dollars per year” (Report to Congress on Indoor Air Quality, 1999). Improvements in the indoor air environment may substantially increase employee morale and productivity. Therefore, it is important to include indoor air quality controls in operation, maintenance, and energy conservation strategies.

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Home Improvement

Clay Morse

2007-12-01 10:04:00

Good salesperson or great sales professional?

Answer: When a homeowner decides to spend hard earned cash on a product or service to upgrade their home, what makes them choose one company or product over another? Savvy business owners know that their sales professionals drive their business. Without the specialized efforts of these professionals, there would be “less” business. When I approach sales, I put myself in my customer’s shoes. What would I expect from a sales professional I’ve invited into my home? 1. First Impression…They must arrive on time. Their sales kit should be neat and organized. This assures me that they are ready to focus on my wants and needs 2. Company introduction…The professional should be able to share with me the details of the company they represent. Knowing this will make me feel secure with their company doing work in my home. 3. Product knowledge…They should be able to discuss the product being considered in detail and tell me why it is the best choice for my home. They should also have knowledge about competing products. 4. Installation procedure…They should be able to describe the process of installation including when my job will start and when it will be completed. Also, what does your sales professional have to say about the installation team? I recently heard one of my own Sales Professionals describe our installation team as “true craftsmen” and not merely installers. She went on to convey to the customer that our installation teams care about the quality of their work and that they are professionals that you will feel comfortable having in your home. After all, they are strangers to you. 5. Close the sale!...By now, I feel comfortable and decide to go ahead with the purchase and sign the contract. Then what? A true professional will stay in contact with me as my work progresses. They will take my calls and answer any questions or concerns I might have. 6. Job complete!...Now what? A sales professional will call you and make sure you are satisfied with the product and the workmanship just completed in your home. Most will ask if they can drop by to see the finished product. Some may ask if they can take pictures. Each sales professional is unique. Their style and approach might be slightly different from someone else’s. You can study and take classes in salesmanship to learn the basics, but the true professional either “has it” or doesn’t. When it’s all said and done and you are thrilled with the work just completed in your home, the true SALES PROFESSIONAL wants to know that you would recommend them to other potential customers and that YOU WOULD DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN!

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Home Improvement

Joe Gassmann

2007-11-01 14:27:00

QUESTION: How does one make an existing fireplace more efficient? It seems like we burn an awful lot of wood but we don’t get that much heat.

ANSWER: That is not surprising. Most fireplaces have an efficiency rating of only 5 to 10%. The best way to increase this efficiency is adding what is called a fireplace insert. Whether your wood burning fireplace is masonry or factory built, a fireplace insert is designed to make it more efficient. Fireplace inserts are made of cast iron or steel with self-cleaning insulated glass doors that allow a full view of the fire, while making it more efficient. Many also have state-of-the-art features like fans and thermostatic controls (depending on the fuel). Almost any older wood-burning fireplace could benefit from the installation of a fireplace insert. As stated earlier, these older units generally have an efficiency rating of only 5 to 10%. This is due to the open combustion design that draws an abundance of heated room air into the fire, causing the fire to burn too fast and wasting energy. On the other hand, a fireplace insert is an insulated, closed door, system that slows the fire down and increases the temperature of the fire facilitating combustion that is more complete. This can dramatically increase efficiencies up to 65% in many cases which can mean more heat output. Best of all, an EPA-certified wood burning insert can reduce emissions from wood burning to almost zero.

When it comes to choosing the right one for you, like you would for any appliance, consider your own needs and preferences when you shop. Visit a local store that carries the brand you like, ask the dealer or your friends and relatives for recommendations. Here are some items you will want to consider:

Type: Distinguished by fuel (natural gas, propane, EPA certified wood, pellet and coal).

Size: Small to extremely large, based on the size of the existing opening. Take these measurements: opening height, opening width, opening depth (top and bottom), rear width, and depth of the hearth (the area in front of the fireplace).

Location: Must be placed in an existing masonry or factory-built fireplace with a working chimney.

Venting: Either naturally through a working chimney, or direct vented, depending on the fuel choice. A chimney liner is usually required, specific to the fuel.

Features: Made from steel or cast iron with self-cleaning glass doors, may have optional fans to distribute heat into the room, as well as thermostatic or remote controls, to help regulate the fire.

Style: Varies among fuel types. Inserts are similar in construction to freestanding stoves. All types come in a variety of colors, finishes and designs, from modern to traditional.

Installation: The Hearth Patio and Barbecue Assoc., (HPBA) recommends using a certified professional installer who will obtain the necessary building permits and make sure the installation meets all applicable state and local codes. A professional will ensure as airtight an installation as possible, making the fire easier to control and increasing BTU output and make adjustments to ensure the proper appearance of the flame.

Maintenance: Maintenance levels vary with the choice of fuel type. Generally, remove them when performing any maintenance. Naturally, the chimney should receive annual inspections by a certified chimney sweep. Fuel Requirements: Check out www.ppba.org/communications/facst/shtml for the HPBA fact sheet on Hearth Product Fuels. Average Cost: Be sure and add the costs of the unit itself, installation, delivery, annual fuel costs and annual maintenance.

Benefits:

1. Increased fireplace efficiency

2. Clean, convenient and easy-to-use

3. Supplemental heater helps save money

4. Fuel efficiency and multiple fuel options

5. Reduced fireplace emissions for better winter air quality

6. Provides heat when the power goes out

Would you like to enhance the look and feel of your existing wood burning fireplace? Now it’s easier than ever to increase the efficiency of your fireplace by adding a fireplace insert http://www.Fireplacesnow.com/inserts.asp The installation of a fireplace insert can turn your inefficient fireplace into a easy to use supplemental zone heater to help you control those high home heating bills while providing cleaner winter air quality.

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Home Improvement

Howard McDaniel

2007-11-01 10:18:00

Why must you have a vent for plumbing?

If you look on your roof, you will see pipes sticking out of the roof approximately 12" high. For every pipe that goes down, one needs to go up. The obvious reason we have vents is that sewer gases need to be vented outside of the dwelling. Not so obvious is what happens if they are not included in the waste and vent design. Imagine drinking a soda from a straw.

If you put your thumb over the straw, you can pull liquid up from the container. Remove your thumb and see the liquid quickly drain out. When liquid goes down a pipe, air needs to follow it. Without the vent pipe, the draining liquid will try to suck air through the P-traps on the plumbing fixtures (tub, sink, etc.). That is that most noticeable "glurp" sound. If it manages to do so, you may know it from the "smell" coming from the now dry seal on the P-trap. Without vents, draining one fixture may cause another fixture in the house to back up. That isn’t good. A waste and vent system should keep sewer gas out of the dwelling and allow for every fixture to drain well.

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Home Improvement

Howard McDaniel

2007-10-01 11:09:00

: What Other Methods Can Be Used to Control Indoor Air Pollution? Answer: The three most common approaches to reducing indoor air pollution, in order of effectiveness, are: Source Control: Eliminate or control the sources of pollution; Ventilation: Dilute and exhaust pollutants through outdoor air ventilation Air Cleaning: Remove pollutants through proven air cleaning methods. Of the three, the first approach -- source control -- is the most effective. This involves minimizing the use of products and materials that cause indoor pollution, employing good hygiene practices to minimize biological contaminants (including the control of humidity and moisture, and occasional cleaning and disinfection of wet or moist surfaces),

Answer: Ozone has been extensively used for water purification, but ozone chemistry in water is not the same as ozone chemistry in air. High concentrations of ozone in air, when people are not present, are sometimes used to help decontaminate an unoccupied space from certain chemical or biological contaminants or odors (e.g., fire restoration). However, little is known about the chemical by-products left behind by these processes (Dunston and Spivak, 1997). While high concentrations of ozone in air may sometimes be appropriate in these circumstances, conditions should be sufficiently controlled to insure that no person or pet becomes exposed. Ozone can adversely affect indoor plants, and damage materials such as rubber, electrical wire coatings, and fabrics and art work containing susceptible dyes and pigments (U.S. EPA, 1996a). Question: What Other Methods Can Be Used to Control Indoor Air Pollution? Answer: The three most common approaches to reducing indoor air pollution, in order of effectiveness, are: Source Control: Eliminate or control the sources of pollution; Ventilation: Dilute and exhaust pollutants through outdoor air ventilation Air Cleaning: Remove pollutants through proven air cleaning methods. Of the three, the first approach -- source control -- is the most effective. This involves minimizing the use of products and materials that cause indoor pollution, employing good hygiene practices to minimize biological contaminants (including the control of humidity and moisture, and occasional cleaning and disinfection of wet or moist surfaces), and using good housekeeping practices to control particles. The second approach -- outdoor air ventilation -- is also effective and commonly employed. Ventilation methods include installing an exhaust fan close to the source of contaminants, increasing outdoor air flows in mechanical ventilation systems, and opening windows, especially when pollutant sources are in use. The third approach -- air cleaning -- is not generally regarded as sufficient in itself, but is sometimes used to supplement source control and ventilation. Air filters, electronic particle air cleaners and ionizers are often used to remove airborne particles, and gas absorbing material is sometimes used to remove gaseous contaminants when source control and ventilation are inadequate.

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Home Improvement

Bruce Branscum

2007-10-01 11:09:00

: What is a “board foot”? A “square foot”? A “linear foot”?

Wood that comes from conifers or needle-bearing trees is classified as softwood: pine, Douglas fir, spruce, redwood, etc. The wood from deciduous trees (trees which lose their leaves each year) is classified as hardwood. There are some woods that are classified as “soft” that may be much harder or stronger than woods that are classified as “hard”. Balsa for example, is considered a hardwood although it is of course much softer than, say, spruce. Question: What is a “board foot”? A “square foot”? A “linear foot”? Answer: A “board foot” or “square foot” or “linear foot” are all ways of measuring wood. A board foot is the measure of the volume of a piece of wood. A square foot is the measure of the surface area of a board (or group of boards.) A linear foot is the measure of the length of a board. Question: What woods work best outside? Answer: Generally, hardwoods do not perform well in outdoor applications unless very well protected and maintained with a marine-grade varnish. The exception to this is teak, which holds up very well outdoors and which is often used for boat decking and trim. Exterior wood mouldings should be pine, redwood or Douglas fir. Question: Can one get moulding already primed or painted? Answer: Most milling houses can furnish either. Question: Can mouldings be duplicated to match a moulding I already have in my house? Answer: Yes, most milling houses can duplicate and match a moulding for any customer’s needs. Generally, mouldings can be matched from ¼” to 12” in width from 1/8” to 6” in thickness, in an many as 14 different wood species of your choice. Question: What is required to duplicate a profile? Answer: Again, generally an actual sample or an accurate scale drawing works best. Most milling houses can work with rough sketches, however separate drawing charges will usually apply to make an accurate pattern for you. Question: Is it expensive to duplicate? Answer: Duplication costs depend on the size, quantity and material species. Average custom setups run from $100 to $200.00 per profile duplication at most places. Some exceptions apply when duplicating thick or wide materials. Setup charges include a completed drawing of your profile for your approval signature, template manufacture, tooling to cut your profile and setup and running of your order through the machines. A price per lineal foot for the material of your choice and quantity will also accompany your estimate. There may be some flat fee minimum charges if ordering less than 20 lineal feet of a custom profile. Question: How long does it take to duplicate? Answer: On average custom duplication from start to finish is less than two weeks. Special order materials or special lengths may require longer.

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Home Improvement

Bruce Branscum

2007-09-01 09:59:00

We are going to be building a deck this Fall. We’ve heard quite a bit about composite wood vs. traditional wood for decks. Can you tell us about it?

Composite lumber is crafted from recovered hardwood fiber and rugged, UV-stabilized polypropylene. It combines a unique polypropylene-based formula with a highly advanced manufacturing process to yield a superior material to traditional wood. The best composite woods are made with polypropylene (think of those red gas cans) instead of polyethylene. Polypropylene makes it much stronger, stiffer and lighter, so it can span longer distances and withstand higher temperatures with less expansion and contraction than composites made with polyethylene. The best composite woods will usually add 15-20% to the cost of the typical deck project, but will add as much as 50% in overall value, and will contribute to greater resale. Composite woods are also used in projects like railings, porches, fencing, docks, playgrounds, benches, picnic tables, etc. Composite woods provide excellent traction. They are not slippery, which makes them safe for children. Composite woods are splinter free, which is most important for pool applications. Composite wood is actually less slippery than wood and is ADA compliant for ramps, etc. Composite wood requires periodic cleaning just like wood; however, it doesn’ t need to be stained like wood. Composite wood does not get as hot as painted wood and it will not sag between joists. The deep wood grain and thin profile, in combination with IR-reflective pigments in the polypropylene, help keep it cool underfoot. Insects don’t bother composite wood because of its density. The best composite woods are available in 12, 16 and 20 foot lengths decking and 8 foot spans for railing. Decking is available in 6” & 4” widths.

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Home Improvement

Michael Gatschet

2007-09-01 09:59:00

I have heard a lot about remodeling green. What exactly does this mean and what are the benefits to Green Remodeling?

Some of this information has been obtained from NARI. It’s hip to be green, and remodeling a home green is easier than you think. Green Remodeling is an all-encompassing approach that emphasizes making a home healthy, comfortable, and efficient. Consideration is given to indoor air quality, energy conservation, resource conservation, reduced material waste, and the use of products that are better for the environment (and for people). Why go green? It’s easier on the earth, it lowers costs, and it provides a healthier home in which to live. According to the Sustainable Building Industry Council (SBIC), housing alone consumes 20% of America’s energy. Homeowners who choose to remodel green can lower their energy consumption by 30-50%. It’s widely agreed that forests produce 40% of Earth’s oxygen, and that building supplies use 25% of its forests. Remodeling green by incorporating recycled materials or sustainable species will help homeowners to tread more lightly on Earth’s natural resources. Green remodeling is becoming more popular as homeowners consider health issues, skyrocketing energy costs and Earth’s natural resources. More than 15 million Americans are estimated to have asthma, including 1-in-13 school-age children, and more than 28 million Americans suffer from hay fever and other allergies, all of which are aggravated by poor indoor air quality. According to NARI President Everett Collier, “Remodeling Green offers every homeowner the opportunity to reduce home energy demands, lessen home maintenance costs, and increase comfort. Remodelers are increasingly exploring green remodeling principles for their overall value for their clients and for the sake of the environment.” Facts of Green Remodeling: • Energy Conservation The average home today utilizes systems for heating, ventilation, and air conditioning, and most homes are not built as efficiently as they could be all of which results in high energy consumption. The U.S. Department of Energy believes if current buildings were green-improved, they would use $20 billion less energy per year. Green remodeling puts a strong emphasis on making homes as efficient as possible with modifications like energy efficient appliances and thermostats that can be programmed at different temperatures for different times of the day. • Indoor air quality There are many sources that contribute to the air quality inside a home. They include pollutants brought in from the outside, toxic chemicals existing inside the home, and the activities of the occupants that create pollutants. Major contributors are tobacco smoke, smoke from the burning of wood, coal, kerosene or other such substances, toxic fumes from sealants or chemicals from cleaning products, lead paint, asbestos from insulation, damp carpets or fabrics, and certain pressed-wood furniture products that release chemicals into the air. Green remodeling seeks to remedy these problems with things like better ventilation systems and using wood, paint and sealants that are nontoxic. What are some benefits of green remodeling? Overall green remodeling proves to be very beneficial for homeowners in many ways: • Reduces operating costs in the home by increasing efficiency • Conserves natural resources • Increases the value of the home • Improves indoor air quality and in turn, overall health • Reduces waste • Reduces emissions costs • Increases productivity of occupants • Improves quality of life How can I implement green into my home? Green remodeling can be done in small ways and doesn’t necessarily have to encompass the entire home. It’s easy to pick and choose elements that fit each particular homeowner. • Programmable thermostats • Energy efficient appliances • Natural flooring • Local building materials • Natural fiber rugs and fabrics • Energy efficient lighting • Insulated hot water pipes • Tank-less water heaters • Quality insulation • Native plants for landscaping

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Home Improvement

Howard McDaniel

2007-09-01 09:59:00

Why is it difficult to control ozone exposure with an ozone generator?

Answer: The actual concentration of ozone produced by an ozone generator depends on many factors. Concentrations will be higher if a more powerful device or more than one device is used, if a device is placed in a small space rather than a large space, if interior doors are closed rather than open and, if the room has fewer rather than more materials and furnishings that absorb or react with ozone and, provided that outdoor concentrations of ozone are low, if there is less rather than more outdoor air ventilation. The proximity of a person to the ozone generating device can also affect one’s exposure. The concentration is highest at the point where the ozone exits from the device, and generally decreases as one moves further away. Manufacturers and vendors advise users to size the device properly to the space or spaces in which it is used. Unfortunately, some manufacturers’ recommendations about appropriate sizes for particular spaces have not been sufficiently precise to guarantee that ozone concentrations will not exceed public health limits. Further, some literature distributed by vendors suggests that users err on the side of operating a more powerful machine than would normally be appropriate for the intended space, the rationale being that the user may move in the future, or may want to use the machine in a larger space later on. Using a more powerful machine increases the risk of excessive ozone exposure. Ozone generators typically provide a control setting by which the ozone output can be adjusted. The ozone output of these devices is usually not proportional to the control setting. That is, a setting at medium does not necessarily generate an ozone level that is halfway between the levels at low and high. The relationship between the control setting and the output varies considerably among devices, although most appear to elevate the ozone output much more than one would expect as the control setting is increased from low to high. In experiments to date, the high setting in some devices generated 10 times the level obtained at the medium setting (US EPA, 1995). Manufacturer’s instructions on some devices link the control setting to room size and thus indicate what setting is appropriate for different room sizes. However, room size is only one factor affecting ozone levels in the room. In addition to adjusting the control setting to the size of the room, users have sometimes been advised to lower the ozone setting if they can smell the ozone. Unfortunately, the ability to detect ozone by smell varies considerably from person to person, and one’s ability to smell ozone rapidly deteriorates in the presence of ozone. While the smell of ozone may indicate that the concentration is too high, lack of odor does not guarantee that levels are safe. At least one manufacturer is offering units with an ozone sensor that turns the ozone generator on and off with the intent of maintaining ozone concentrations in the space below health standards. EPA is currently evaluating the effectiveness and reliability of these sensors, and plans to conduct further research to improve society’s understanding of ozone chemistry indoors. EPA will report its findings as the results of this research become available.

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Home Improvement

Clay Morse

2007-09-01 09:59:00

We have been saving up to do some remodeling but aren’t sure how to get started on choosing a qualified remodeler to do the work. Where do we start?

Answer: First of all, there are many deciding factors involved in choosing a remodeler, but here are a few helpful tips to get you started. When looking for a remodeler, do not assume bigger is better. If you are looking in the yellow pages, company A may have a huge ad compared to company B, but that does not necessarily reflect how their work is and if they take care of their customers. One suggestion would be to see if the company is part of the WABA (Wichita Area Builders Association) and the Remodeler’s Council which is part of the WABA. Companies that are associated with WABA are required to adhere to certain standards and have knowledge of the remodeling business and serve the customer’s needs. The Remodeler’s Council also adheres to a code of ethics, and any complaints against any Remodeling Council member are taken before the Association to be resolved. Attending home shows and looking at options there is a good avenue as well. This gives you the opportunity to see what they specialize in and visit with them one-on-one. Whether your project is large or small, take your time and do the necessary research to see what company might be a good fit for you. Decide on a budget that you have in mind and determine what your wants and needs are prior to having a salesperson or estimator come to your home. Obviously, if someone has had work done and has referred a company to you, you’ll feel more comfortable starting out with them, but you still need to ask all the necessary questions of them just as you would of any other company. Always ask for other referrals and make sure they are insured. Also, what do their warranties actually cover and do they back their workmanship? When a salesperson comes to your home, make sure you and any other person making any decisions will be there. Making sure all questions and concerns are discussed on the first visit is necessary for both you and the remodeler. If a salesperson is asking you specific questions and is finding out what your wants and needs are, they are probably looking out for your best interest and not just looking to get that quick commission. Make sure that the quote given to you covers everything including: materials, installation, taxes, add-ons, or any other fees. If you are getting more than one bid, make sure you are comparing apples to apples, and that you feel comfortable doing business with the company. Do the associates represent the company in a positive manner? After all, appearance and punctuality are everything these days. I cannot stress enough the importance of doing the necessary research before choosing your remodeler and hopefully these tips will get you started in the right direction. Happy Remodeling!

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Home Improvement

Clay Morse

2007-08-01 15:08:00

We’re thinking about remodeling our kitchen countertops, but with all the different options out there, how do we choose the right one for us?

Answer: The first thing you want to ask yourself is why you are remodeling or updating your kitchen. What kind of look you want and how you’ll use your countertop will help you decide which surface will best fit your needs. A few common surfaces that you’ll see are Engineered Stones, Slab Granite, Ceramic Tile, Laminate, Solid surfacing, Concrete, and Stainless Steel. The top performing materials on the market are Engineered Stones and Granite. Here are the main differences between the two: Engineered Stones: The term engineered stone means that natural stone products are combined with a formulated polymer that seals the product and is resistant to burning, staining, and scratching. This product has a more consistent uniform look as well. Most engineered stones come with a 10 yr warranty and some companies offer up to 20 yrs and even Lifetime limited warranties. If you cook a lot, want a beautiful stone look, and want a maintenance-free countertop, an engineered stone product would be an elegant and practical choice for you. Granite: Slab granite is a beautiful natural stone product that is very tough and durable as well. Colors and grains can vary in each slab. There are different grades of slab granite as well, so make sure you are informed on the quality of the color you choose. Granite is heat and scratch resistant also, but requires periodic sealing since natural stone is porous. There are many edge options to choose from which differ in price. Granite would be an elegant and durable choice for you as well. Getting estimates: Make sure when getting estimates that you are well informed about each and every product and the advantages and disadvantages to each. Before you waste your time and the Salesperson’s time, get educated on the features and benefits and make sure you are getting a quote on a product that fits your wants and needs. Also, make sure you are comparing apples to apples on quotes. For Example: A company may be advertising a certain square foot price; however, in most cases there are numerous charges added to the cost. Get an installed price for the whole project, which may include tear-out, certain edge options, sink installations, warranty if offered, and possible haul-off of old material. Also don’t forget to take into consideration any plumbing, or electrical work that may be needed as well. Hopefully these tips will help you to be successful in choosing the right countertop and company for you.

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Home Improvement

Bruce Branscum

2007-08-01 11:27:00

Can you tell me about decks? Do they always have to be made from Redwood or can one use other woods and be happy with the outcome? How can one keep a deck looking its best? How big can one be without pouring a foundation?

Answer: You have asked a lot of good questions. Let me answer what I can this month, and the rest in subsequent issues. Pressure-treated pine resists rot and repels pests, but the green-tinged lumber is unsightly and the pesticides it contains are unhealthy. To build a safer, more attractive deck, choose a prettier yet still durable lumber for the flooring, railings, and steps. Save the pressure-treated wood for the frame and supports. If you purchase a tropical rainforest wood, make sure it carries the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) trademark, which certifies that the wood has been harvested responsibly. Here are some different choices that will make sense: 1. Western Red Cedar - Western Red Cedar is reddish brown and ages to silvery gray. The soft wood splinters easily, but holds up well in rain, sun, heat, and cold. To add beauty and durability to a deck made with Western Red Cedar, use a penetrating stain. A good site for more information is www.wrcla.org. 2. Redwood - Redwood, like Cedar, is a soft lumber that ages to a pleasing gray. Prolonged moisture will cause the wood to blacken. A redwood deck will resist rot, but will look more attractive if you use a sealer. A good site for more information is www.calredwood.org. 3. Mock Lumber - Modern alternatives for outdoor decking include plastic polymer and wood-polymer composites. Synthetic materials are virtually bug-proof and rot proof, but even the most realistic imitation will always be just that – an imitation. When shopping for composites for your deck, there are many reputable companies to look at including but not limited to Timbertech and Correct Deck. Next month, we will talk more about decks and deck plans.

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Home Improvement

Howard McDaniel

2007-08-01 11:27:00

If I follow manufacturers’ directions of an ozone generator, can I be harmed?

Results of some controlled studies show concentrations of ozone considerably higher than these standards are possible even when a user follows the manufacturer’s operating instructions. There are many brands and models of ozone generators on the market. They vary in the amount of ozone they can produce. In many circumstances, the use of an ozone generator may not result in ozone concentrations that exceed public health standards. But many factors affect the indoor concentration of ozone so that under some conditions ozone concentrations may exceed public health standards. In one study (Shaughnessy and Oatman, 1991), a large ozone generator recommended by the manufacturer for spaces “up to 3,000 square feet,” was placed in a 350 square foot room and run at a high setting. The ozone in the room quickly reached concentrations that were exceptionally high--0.50 to 0.80 ppm which is 5-10 times higher than public health limits (see Table 1). In an EPA study, several different devices were placed in a home environment, in various rooms, with doors alternately opened and closed, and with the central ventilation system fan alternately turned on and off. The results showed that some ozone generators, when run at a high setting with interior doors closed, would frequently produce concentrations of 0.20 - 0.30 ppm. A powerful unit set on high with the interior doors opened achieved values of 0.12 to 0.20 ppm in adjacent rooms. When units were not run on high, and interior doors were open, concentrations generally did not exceed public health standards (US EPA, 1995). The concentrations reported above were adjusted to exclude that portion of the ozone concentration brought in from the outdoors. Indoor concentrations of ozone brought in from outside are typically 0.01- 0.02 ppm, but could be as high as 0.03 - 0.05 ppm (Hayes, 1991; U.S. EPA, 1996b; Weschler et al., 1989, 1996; Zhang and Lioy; 1994). If the outdoor portion of ozone were included in the indoor concentrations reported above, the concentrations inside would have been correspondingly higher, increasing the risk of excessive ozone exposure. None of the studies reported above involved the simultaneous use of more than one device. The simultaneous use of multiple devices increases the total ozone output and therefore greatly increases the risk of excessive ozone exposure.

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Home Improvement

Richard McClanahan

2007-07-01 16:13:00

Question: We are wanting to paint our home this fall. Is there a rule of thumb to follow on the best time to paint the interior and/or exterior?

Answer: Interior painting is pretty much a go all year long. If you are wanting painting done in a basement that has a great deal of dampness, then you may need to run a humidifier to thoroughly dry walls and ceilings. Preparation is as important as painting, getting the room ready can take a lot of time, moving furniture, patching holes in walls, covering bad spots that may be the result of leaks. There are a lot of products to assist you in preparation, a sealer or primer for new surfaces is a must. Semi-gloss paint for walls and flat paint on ceilings. It is my feeling that semi-gloss paint will wash or clean better than most flat paints, and boo boos happen oh so often. Exterior painting is a whole different story. Painting should be left up to the professionals for the most part. Best time is in the fall when the 100 degree weather has passed. Trim and facia work are important before painting. Need to check the wood to see that no rot has started, if so replace those boards and prime them thoroughly. It is my thought to prime the boards before they are installed, that way all sides are treated and will last longer than just treating/priming one side of the board. Scraping on surfaces that have not had paint in a long time can be a bear. Clean all areas with a pressure hose to get rid of dirt, grime and other things like insects that have taken up space in and around your guttering. So, to recap, painting interior can be done most anytime, I would be more cautious on exterior work and leave that until the fall of year, spot painting can be done most anytime during good weather.

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Home Improvement

Howard McDaniel

2007-07-01 16:13:00

Are ozone generators effective in controlling indoor air pollution?

Answer: Available scientific evidence shows that at concentrations that do not exceed public health standards, ozone has little potential to remove indoor air contaminants. Some manufacturers or vendors suggest that ozone will render almost every chemical contaminant harmless by producing a chemical reaction whose only by-products are carbon dioxide, oxygen and water. This is misleading. First, a review of scientific research shows that, for many of the chemicals commonly found in indoor environments, the reaction process with ozone may take months or years (Boeniger, 1995). For all practical purposes, ozone does not react at all with such chemicals. And contrary to specific claims by some vendors, ozone generators are not effective in removing carbon monoxide (Salls, 1927; Shaughnessy et al., 1994) or formaldehyde (Esswein and Boeniger, 1994). Second, for many of the chemicals with which ozone does readily react, the reaction can form a variety of harmful or irritating by-products (Weschler et al., 1992a, 1992b, 1996; Zhang and Lioy, 1994). For example, in a laboratory experiment that mixed ozone with chemicals from new carpet, ozone reduced many of these chemicals, including those which can produce new carpet odor. However, in the process, the reaction produced a variety of aldehydes, and the total concentration of organic chemicals in the air increased rather than decreased after the introduction of ozone (Weschler, et. al., 1992b). In addition to aldehydes, ozone may also increase indoor concentrations of formic acid (Zhang and Lioy, 1994), both of which can irritate the lungs if produced in sufficient amounts. Some of the potential by-products produced by ozone’s reactions with other chemicals are themselves very reactive and capable of producing irritating and corrosive by-products (Weschler and Shields, 1996, 1997a, 1997b). Given the complexity of the chemical reactions that occur, additional research is needed to more completely understand the complex interactions of indoor chemicals in the presence of ozone. Third, ozone does not remove particles (e.g., dust and pollen) from the air, including the particles that cause most allergies. However, some ozone generators are manufactured with an “ion generator” or “ionizer” in the same unit. An ionizer is a device that disperses negatively (and/or positively) charged ions into the air. These ions attach to particles in the air giving them a negative (or positive) charge so that the particles may attach to nearby surfaces such as walls or furniture, or attach to one another and settle out of the air. In recent experiments, ionizers were found to be less effective in removing particles of dust, tobacco smoke, pollen or fungal spores than either high efficiency particle filters or electrostatic precipitators. (Shaughnessy et al., 1994; Pierce, et al., 1996). However, it is apparent from other experiments that the effectiveness of particle air cleaners, including electrostatic precipitators, ion generators, or pleated filters varies widely (U.S. EPA, 1995). There is evidence to show that at concentrations that do not exceed public health standards, ozone is not effective at removing many odor-causing chemicals. In an experiment designed to produce formaldehyde concentrations representative of an embalming studio, where formaldehyde is the main odor producer, ozone showed no effect in reducing formaldehyde concentration (Esswein and Boeniger, 1994). Other experiments suggest that body odor may be masked by the smell of ozone but is not removed by ozone (Witheridge and Yaglou, 1939). Ozone is not considered useful for odor removal in building ventilation systems (ASHRAE, 1989). While there are few scientific studies to support the claim that ozone effectively removes odors, it is plausible that some odorous chemicals will react with ozone. For example, in some experiments, ozone appeared to react readily with certain chemicals, including some chemicals that contribute to the smell of new carpet (Weschler, 1992b; Zhang and Lioy, 1994). Ozone is also believed to react with acrolein, one of the many odorous and irritating chemicals found in secondhand tobacco smoke (US EPA, 1995). If used at concentrations that do not exceed public health standards, ozone applied to indoor air does not effectively remove viruses, bacteria, mold, or other biological pollutants. Some data suggest that low levels of ozone may reduce airborne concentrations and inhibit the growth of some biological organisms while ozone is present, but ozone concentrations would have to be 5 - 10 times higher than public health standards allow before the ozone could decontaminate the air sufficiently to prevent survival and regeneration of the organisms once the ozone is removed (Dyas, et al.,1983; Foarde et al., 1997). Even at high concentrations, ozone may have no effect on biological contaminants embedded in porous material such as duct lining or ceiling tiles (Foarde et al, 1997). In other words, ozone produced by ozone generators may inhibit the growth of some biological agents while it is present, but it is unlikely to fully decontaminate the air unless concentrations are high enough to be a health concern if people are present. Even with high levels of ozone, contaminants embedded in porous material may not be affected at all.

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Home Improvement

Ray Fisher

2007-06-01 16:32:00

We are bored with our kitchen. There isn’t enough room, but we have limitations on adding on. Short of a major overhaul of our home, can you give us some ideas on things we can do? (For Part 2 of this series, please see the June 2007 issue.)

Answer: Sure. Your feelings and concerns are among the ones we hear most often. Over the next few issues, we will talk about several topics relative to kitchen design and remodeling. Hopefully they will be of help to you. Last month we talked about the different arrangements one can have. There are several, from ‘Linear’ and ‘Railroad’, to ‘Peninsula’, ‘Corner’ and ‘Horseshoe’ arrangements. Some of these are candidates for any kitchen, and some are not. You see, of all the areas that must be considered when doing a complete or partial remodel of an existing kitchen, the biggest consideration is getting everyone involved to remember...kitchens are designed around space. Space for appliances, openings, cabinets and cabinet doors. Every fraction of an inch must be accounted for in a kitchen design. With these things in mind, you can begin to rule ‘out’ or ‘in’ the arrangements that are candidates for your finished kitchen. Are you going to be using your existing appliances or buying new? If you are using your existing appliances, will you be changing their location? If you are buying new appliances, you will need to have the exact measurements and their location determined. Next you will need to make a decision on your cabinet doors and whether they will have a standard overlay or full overlay. An overlay is the degree or amount a door overlays the frame or front edge of a cabinet. You will also need to decide whether you want ‘exposed’ or ‘hidden’ hinges. All of these things directly influence space. You may wonder why we talked about the different types of arrangements last month, before we talked about the appliances, doors, hinges and space considerations. It’s very similar to hitting a golf shot. Once you get the picture in your mind of what you want the finished shot to look like, all you have to do is execute around your talents and skills. In designing a kitchen, once we have an idea of what we want the finished kitchen to look like, all we have to do is execute around a given set of facts and space dimensions. That is all for this month. Coming up in future articles we will be talking about types of wood, construction and the different styles of traditional, contemporary and transitional one can use to make that beautiful new kitchen most unique and functional.

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Home Improvement

Howard McDaniel

2007-06-01 09:43:00

How is ozone harmful?

Ozone is a molecule composed of three atoms of oxygen. Two atoms of oxygen form the basic oxygen molecule...the oxygen we breathe that is essential to life. The third oxygen atom can detach from the ozone molecule, and re-attach to molecules of other substances, thereby altering their chemical composition. It is this ability to react with other substances that forms the basis of manufacturers’ claims. Question: How is ozone harmful? Answer: The same chemical properties that allow high concentrations of ozone to react with organic material outside the body give it the ability to react with similar organic material that makes up the body, and potentially cause harmful health consequences. When inhaled, ozone can damage the lungs (see - “Ozone and Your Health” - www.epa.gov/airnow/brochure.html ). Relatively low amounts can cause chest pain, coughing, shortness of breath, and throat irritation. Ozone may also worsen chronic respiratory diseases such as asthma and compromise the ability of the body to fight respiratory infections. People vary widely in their susceptibility to ozone. Healthy people, as well as those with respiratory difficulty, can experience breathing problems when exposed to ozone. Exercise during exposure to ozone causes a greater amount of ozone to be inhaled, and increases the risk of harmful respiratory effects. Recovery from the harmful effects can occur following short-term exposure to low levels of ozone, but health effects may become more damaging and recovery less certain at higher levels or from longer exposures (US EPA, 1996a, 1996b). Question: Is there such a thing as “good ozone” and “bad ozone”? Answer: The phrase “good up high - bad nearby” has been used by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to make the distinction between ozone in the upper and lower atmosphere. Ozone in the upper atmosphere--referred to as “stratospheric ozone”--helps filter out damaging ultraviolet radiation from the sun. Though ozone in the stratosphere is protective, ozone in the atmosphere - which is the air we breathe - can be harmful to the respiratory system. Harmful levels of ozone can be produced by the interaction of sunlight with certain chemicals emitted to the environment (e.g., automobile emissions and chemical emissions of industrial plants). These harmful concentrations of ozone in the atmosphere are often accompanied by high concentrations of other pollutants, including nitrogen dioxide, fine particles, and hydrocarbons. Whether pure or mixed with other chemicals, ozone can be harmful to your health.

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Home Improvement

Richard McClanahan

2007-06-01 09:43:00

: Why does some siding on houses buckle and bulge?

Whole house fans can be very effective if used at the same time the air conditioning system is working. If you have a 1 and ½ or a 2 story house or even bigger, attic fans can work quietly and efficiently in your home. Attic fans act as a pull through unit. They vent through the attic cornice or the roof vents and draw the air very gently from lower floors to the upper floors to make them more comfortable. With the cooler outside temperatures you can save on running air conditioners and turn up the speed of the attic fan to move air throughout the house. If you have ceiling fans installed in your house they should be run gently to move the air within that room even while the air conditioning system is working. This will help circulate hot air off the ceiling and put in down at people level. Question: Why does some siding on houses buckle and bulge? Answer: This past year, the main culprit is moisture that gathers behind the siding and allows it to buckle and bulge when the summers get hot and steamy. Most of the sidings that have been replaced are made of a composition material that attracts and retains moisture for a long time. The siding usually goes bad on or near chimneys, lower section of house. The main reason is the chimney receives the most heat/cool exchange of air, and will cause the siding to contract and expand more than it should be able to tolerate. Lower house siding usually goes bad due to using water sprinklers or the splash effect from rain actually going behind the siding from the bottom and staying damp for year on end. Then at some time it will start trying to escape with the draw of heat from the sun. A sure fire fix is to have the siding removed and put up a concrete type board material in its place. Siding treated with concrete coding or all the way through will stand a less chance of rotting from the inside out. There are lots of brands of siding materials available on the market. They are all good. It depends on personal feelings which brand and price range to select. If you are going to live in your dream home forever, then go with a higher priced material that is made up of solid material all the way through. It is pretty much your choice.

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Home Improvement

Richard McClanahan

2007-05-01 13:27:00

How do I care for items made of wood that are left outside during the summer?

Answer: Several products are on the market to help preserve your various expensive wood products. Be sure you always purchase from reputable stores, and read the labels on the items before you leave the store. Or, go to the web and look at various paints, stains and water preserves on the market. As an example, if you have a stained wood door that is exposed to the sun for more than 6 hours a day, it may be necessary to spray it with water a couple of times a month. This will help put moisture back in the wood and keep from cracking prematurely. Also, you may want to paint a door that is exposed to weather, make sure you purchase the right type of paint, go to a reputable paint store and explain which way the door faces, how much traffic comes and goes through the door. This can be important for choosing the right product. Lawn furniture made of wood should be kept clean. After a spring or summer rain it is a good idea to wash the furniture to remove any dirt that may have been blown on by the rain and wind. Follow the manufacturer’s suggestions to use the right preservative to treat the furniture. Unfinished (natural wood) decks should be power washed and a water sealer put on them at least once every 2 to 3 years. If you decide to stain a deck, make sure you purchase a stain made especially for the railings and walking surfaces. Otherwise, it could wear off in a short time, and become a nasty mess inside your home, when pets and people track stuff inside. Wood fences can be left natural, and usually weather with no requirement to treat. However, it only makes sense that some of the real expensive woods will have to be treated to increase their longevity. Wood gazebos are also a very expensive investment; treat the shake roofs at least every 2 years. We treat ours every year, just the roof, the rest of the gazebo every 2 years. We are keeping ours unstained and natural, this appearance is our choice. Remember, Kansas winds and rain in the late spring and during the summer can play all sorts of havoc with your outdoor wood products. Care for all of these items is very important.

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Home Improvement

Howard McDaniel

2007-05-01 11:08:00

Clean air has become one of the hottest topics in America. How important is clean air...really? What does it take for air to become clean? Does air filtration help? What is the best kind? (For part 1 refer to April 2007 issue)

Last month we discussed air pollution, air pollutants and how they can manifest themselves in poor health. This month, we will begin discussing the different ways one is told he or she can deal with air pollutants. The first is perhaps the most involved. It deals with what is called an ozone generator. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has quite a bit to say about these ozone generators. You can read their entire presentation at http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/ozonegen.html. Here are excerpts from their report: There is a large body of written material on ozone and the use of ozone indoors. However, much of this material makes claims or draws conclusions without substantiation and sound science. In developing Ozone Generators that are sold as Air Cleaners, the EPA reviewed a wide assortment of this literature, including information provided by a leading manufacturer of ozone generating devices. In keeping with EPA’s policy of insuring that the information it provides is based on sound science, only peer reviewed, scientifically supported findings and conclusions were relied upon in developing this document. Several brands of ozone generators have EPA establishment number on their packaging. This number helps EPA identify the specific facility that produces the product. THE DISPLAY OF THIS NUMBER DOES NOT IMPLY EPA ENDORSEMENT OR SUGGEST IN ANY WAY THAT EPA HAS FOUND THE PRODUCT TO BE EITHER SAFE OR EFFECTIVE. Please Note: EPA does not certify air cleaning devices. The Agency does not recommend air cleaning devices or manufacturers. If you need information on specific devices or manufacturers, one resource you can consult is the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers (AHAM) 1111 19th Street, NW, Suite 402, Washington, DC 20036, (202) 872-5955. Ozone generators that are sold as air cleaners intentionally produce the gas ozone. Often the vendors of ozone generators make statements and distribute material that lead the public to believe that these devices are always safe and effective in controlling indoor air pollution. For almost a century, health professionals have refuted these claims (Sawyer, et. al 1913; Salls, 1927; Boeniger, 1995; American Lung Association, 1997; Al-Ahmady, 1997). The purpose of this document is to provide accurate information regarding the use of ozone-generating devices in indoor occupied spaces. This information is based on the most credible scientific evidence currently available. Some vendors suggest that these devices have been approved by the federal government for use in occupied spaces. To the contrary, NO agency of the federal government has approved these devices for use in occupied spaces. Because of these claims, and because ozone can cause health problems at high concentrations, several federal government agencies have worked in consultation with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency to produce this public information document. More next month...

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Home Improvement

Ray Fisher

2007-05-01 08:28:00

We are bored with our kitchen. There isn’t enough room, but we have limitations on adding on. Short of a major overhaul of our home, can you give us some ideas on things we can do? (For Part 2 of this series, please see the June 2007 issue.)

Answer: Sure.Your feelings and concerns are among the ones heard most often. Over the next few issues, we will talk about several topics relative to kitchen design and remodeling. Hopefully they will be of help to you. First, as you are already aware, choosing the right kitchen isn’t always a question of taste. Personal preferences sometimes clash with the characteristics of the room. Not only the space available, but the shape of the room can vary a lot, so you have to consider all the possible arrangements. Here are a few of the different arrangements one can use depending upon size and shape of the existing room. Linear arrangement - A linear arrangement works well if the kitchen is very narrow. It is generally better to reserve one wall for the ‘working’ part of the kitchen (washing and cooking areas). If the furnished area seems not large enough, you can always increase it vertically using practical wall or suspended units. That way the rest of the room will remain open enough for easy movement. ‘Railroad’ arrangement (also known as ‘Galley’) - A railroad arrangement is the same principle as Linear arrangement, but with the furniture built up along two parallel walls. This arrangement is recommended when the kitchen is wide but not particularly long. One of the walls will be dedicated to the ‘working’ part of the kitchen, while the other can become a convenient area for preparing meals. The center of the room will stay free to permit easy movement between the two sections. ‘Peninsula’ arrangement (also known as ‘Island’) - A peninsula arrangement might be the ideal choice for anyone who wants to have an area for eating a quick snack or who simply wants an additional place to prepare food. Whether you want it equipped with accessories or not, a peninsula arrangement will always be perceived as modern, captivating and doesn’t disrupt a corner arrangement. The important thing is to leave enough space for people to pass by easily and to sit down (a passage 36 to 42 inches). Availability of space is even more important for a peninsula. It is located in the center of the room and it goes well with a linear or corner arrangement. Corner arrangement - A corner arrangement works best when you decide to place a table in the center of the room. It is ideal to put the kitchen furniture in the corner. This arrangement is also the best if you have a kitchen which opens without dividing walls onto the dining or living room. The corner where the kitchen furniture resides should always be that which is opposite the dining room. ‘Horseshoe’ arrangement - A horseshoe arrangement can be most ideal, when your space is large enough to creatively furnish it without worrying about problems of space. You could opt for a three-side arrangement. The table stays in the center, food preparation and conversation are distributed to the two parallel sides while washing and cooking share the internal side. More next month...

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Home Improvement

Howard McDaniel

2007-04-01 16:27:00

ANSWER: In just a few words, you've asked questions that will take a bit to answer. Let me begin. Air pollution affects everyone. You can't hide from it, even inside your own home. Here are some facts with their respective sources I was able to find: • The Environmental Protection Agency ranks poor indoor air quality among the top five environmental risks to public health. Interestingly, five out of 10 Americans are not aware of this fact. (Source: American Lung Association and 3M survey, 2006) • Levels of air pollution inside the home can be two to five times higher (and occasionally 100 times higher) than outdoor levels. (Source: Environmental Protection Agency, 2005) • Over half of the United States population lives in areas which have unhealthy levels of either ozone or particle pollution. (Source: American Lung Association's State of the Air 2006 Report) • It's estimated that 81 million Americans live in areas with unhealthful short-term levels of particle pollution and 66 million live in areas with chronically unhealthful levels of particle pollution. (Source: American Lung Association's State of the Air 2005 Report) • Air pollution found in large and midsize U.S. cities increases the risk of premature death from lung cancer and heart disease. (Source: Journal of the American Medical Association, 2005) • Air pollution contributes to lung disease, which claims close to 341,500 lives in America every year and is the third-leading cause of death in the United States. (Source: American Lung Association, 2004) • It is estimated that 11.5 million Americans had an asthma attack in 2002. More than a third of them (at least 3.5 million) were children under the age of 18. (Source: American Lung Association, Trends in Asthma Morbidity and Mortality, 2003) • Asthma, which can be triggered by either indoor or outdoor air pollution, annually accounts for an estimated three million lost workdays for adults and 10.1 million lost school days in children. Asthma costs our nation $12.7 billion in health care costs annually. (Source: American Lung Association, Trends in Asthma Morbidity and Mortality, 2003) • Approximately 160 million Americans are breathing unhealthy air - children and seniors are the age groups most at risk: - 29 million of these Americans are under the age of 14. - 15 million are over the age of 65. (Source: American Lung Association's State of the Air 2005 Report) The Environmental Protection Agency has identified indoor air quality as one of the top five most urgent environmental risks to public health. Yet surveys found that many of those questioned are not aware of the potential dangers associated with poor indoor air; and steps homeowners can take to improve air quality in the home. • More than 50 percent of Americans are not aware that poor indoor air quality is one of the top five most urgent environmental risks to public health. And nearly 25 percent of Americans are not concerned about the air quality in their homes and the impact it can have on their family's health. • Less than 20 percent of Americans believe that the air inside their homes is more polluted than the air outdoors. However, the Environmental Protection Agency states that levels of air pollution inside the home can be two to five times higher - and occasionally up to 100 times higher - than outdoor levels. • More than 70 percent of Americans have forced air heating and/or central air in their homes. Yet nearly 50 percent do not change the filter in their heating/air conditioning unit every 2 to 3 months as recommended. And 10 percent have never replaced the filter in their heating/air conditioning unit. • Only about 11 percent of Americans purchase high efficiency furnace filters, despite the fact that high efficiency filters can be more effective than standard fiberglass filters in capturing pollen, pet dander, smoke and other potentially harmful micro particles. • More than 50 percent of Americans are not aware that forced air heating and air conditioning units should be inspected annually by a professional. And more than 30 percent of Americans have never had their forced air heating or air conditioning units inspected. • Nearly 75 percent of Americans live with someone who has allergies, asthma, emphysema or another respiratory illness. • Only 27 percent of Americans have carbon monoxide detectors in their homes. The hypothesis is that poor indoor air quality may be promoting and aggravating allergy, asthma and other chronic illnesses. Diagnosis of allergy, asthma and other chronic illnesses has been increasing steadily over the past 20 years. Statistics indicate a steady decline of indoor air quality as the use of energy efficient building materials has grown, effectively sealing buildings tighter than ever before. Dust, allergens and other foreign particulate (dust, ash, soot) brought into the building are constantly re-circulating through the heating and air conditioning system. Airborne biological contaminants fall into three general categories: • Mold - A multi cellular organism taking the form of a fungus. This is the largest of the three categories at between 2 and 20 microns in size. Mold forms "spores" or seeds and is allergenic, perhaps the dominant cause of allergies in the United States. • Bacteria - Smaller in size at approximately .5 to 5 microns. Airborne bacteria can come form human shedding and from dead or decaying house plants. Some genera produce spores, some do not. Bacteria are generally not allergenic. Gram-negative bacteria contain "endotoxin" which can cause respiratory diseases such as Hypersensitivity pneumonia. • Viruses - The smallest particles at between .02 to .2 microns. These are parasitic particles that can infect the cells of a biological organism. Viruses consist of genetic material and a protective protein shell. The sources are humans and animals. These are not living organisms and therefore cannot be killed, but they can be captured through effective air filtration. Trapping ultra fine particles and allergens is critical in preventing lung irritation, due to the inability of the nose and mouth to filter at this level. Some of the most common and most harmful particles and allergens fall into this size range: bacteria, viruses, combustion from cooking and cleaning products, and even cigarette smoke toxins. As bad as all of this might sound, there are solutions that can be 99.98% effective in removing particulate down to .1 micron. We will talk about these processes next month.

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Home Improvement

Richard McClanahan

2007-04-01 08:09:00

Here are some tips on how to prepare for the spring season.

Another winter is about to be a thing in your past. It is now time to look toward spring. Take time to really examine and analyze your house, look at the roof, see if winter has taken any toll. Turned up shingles could cause you problems later down the line, gutters may be clogged, good time to clean and check for stability. Gutters can pull away from the house if there has been a very bad freeze (and we had them this year) or tree limbs hit them during the winter months, this could cause serious damage later in the year. Fascia boards may have become rotted over the winter, this is because water has flowed behind gutters and caused the boards to become rotted. Spring brings on the thaw. Check your basement or foundation area for leaks. The spring rains like to build up ground water, and this can come into your house or other areas that it is least needed. Driveways and sidewalks may have taken a toll over the winter. Check to see if they have cracked or decided to push up above ground. This could cause a hazardous situation if left to continue cracking and chipping away from the main surface.Decking material and or landings my have moved or become unstable by ground water erosion. Check for rotting boards and other wood materials. Spring is a good time to have your water heater drained; this will take care of sediment buildup, and allow the heater to work more efficiently. Air conditioning system should be serviced, at a minimum clean the air intake that sets outside the house, it is referred to as the exchanger, and it should be cleaned and made ready for June and beyond period of time. Exterior doors may have taken a beating, might be time to install a new storm door to save the very expensive to replace exterior doors. Windows may have suffered from broken glass, time to replace to keep the moisture where it belongs, outdoors.

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Home Improvement

Richard McClanahan

2007-03-01 12:52:00

How may I be sure my house is protected for the winter?

If you want to do it yourself, here are a few suggestions: Pick a windy day (after all this is Kansas) and stand near closed doors and windows, if you feel air coming in around the window or door frame, then I can assure you heat is going out through those same openings. Simple solution is to foam strip the door frames with an inexpensive product that may be purchased from a hardware type store. Windows are a little different story, insulating foam strip may not work on some windows, and you can buy a window kit that can be put up in the winter covering the complete window from frame to frame. They are made out of clear plastic, which allows light and you are able to see through. Foundation leaks are another source of heat loss, this is where the foundation ends and the walls of your home begin, sometimes caulking can be applied direct to the cracks between the two structures. This is usually done on the outside of the home, if you have a basement, it could be performed on the inside as well. Now I would like to give a word on furnaces. Have your furnace serviced at least once annually; change the filter at least once per month. An easy way to remember the filter is when your heating bill is received you can use that as a memory kick to get that filter changed or cleaned. A furnace that is not running to peak efficiency can cause you a loss of heat distribution throughout your home. Take advantage of having a professional look at your furnace, look for money saving ads and coupons offered to do a checkup of your furnace. Also, check the insulation in your attic or crawl space or basement if it is unfinished. Proper levels of insulation are important to keep the heat in the rooms from escaping. Again, talk with a professional if you are unsure of whether you have enough insulation or not in all the places that can allow precious heat to escape. Final thought, any upgrade that has to do with saving money on high fuel bills will net you a profit in the long run. After all your entire home is your castle! If you’re not up to doing it yourself remember most reputable companies will send a professional contractor out to see you for a free analysis of your home, and what it may cost to bring you peace of mind for the winter months. Make sure they leave you with a written estimate that you can pick and choose what services you would like them to perform. Check with me each month on a tidbit or two that will give you peace of mind for all the needs around your home.

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Home Improvement

Mike Gatschet

2007-03-01 12:02:00

We have a screened porch on the back of the house. Can I replace the screens with a glass wall to create a sunroom? Or is it more cost effective to purchase a manufactured room?

ANSWER: My first response is yes, you can replace the screens with glass to create a sunroom. And, it would be more cost effective to do that. But, I have to make some assumptions to validate this solution. Hopefully, the foundation is sound and meets the requirements needed to support the existing roof structure. The foundation is a major part of the costs associated with adding on to an existing structure. When adding on, there is always excavation work, forming the foundation and concrete work. No matter how large or small, multiple trips back and forth to the site are generally required to complete the foundation. Along with that, the roof structure, assuming that it is correctly constructed with the properly sized support beams, roof slope, and materials used for the roofing are correct then you are in good shape. The most important issue to consider is the shear strength of structure’s. What is the structures ability to resist horizontal wind pressure? Before, when the porch was screened, wind could pass through easily. With windows, the structure will have to be able to resist the wind pressure. If these considerations have been satisfied, then you are getting closer to having a sunroom. Does the current screened in porch have an elevated wood floor, or is it a patio? Both scenarios will work, but we have to consider that the interior climate will be dramatically different than the exterior climate most of the time. Provisions must be made to keep the space below the wood floor dry, the patio surface dry and keep moisture and humidity out. In your question, you asked about a “glass wall” to create a sunroom. Let’s just agree that a “glass wall” is impractical, and agree that individual glass framed window units with the option of operable screened windows on at least some of the area would be great! Many window manufacturers will custom size window units with an array of options to your specifications in aluminum clad, vinyl clad, or solid vinyl in various colors. And finally, all you have to do now is heat and cool your new space and have adequate lighting, switches and electrical outlets. The easiest way to heat and cool the space might be to extend your existing ductwork to the new space. You could also condition the space separately with a separate unit that heats and cools, thus allowing you to adjust the room’s climate to your specific needs. You will need the professional services of a heating and air contractor to determine if your existing system is adequate, provide a solution for your needs and professionally install the required solution. A good electrician will provide you with a practical solution for your needs and have all the electrical up to code in a short time. Even with all these things to consider, the job is very straightforward with the help of a professional remodeling contractor and would most likely be more cost effective and, in my opinion, more aesthetically pleasing than a manufactured sunroom.

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Home Improvement

John Niedens

2007-03-01 11:06:00

I have thought about my big home project for this spring, and what I would like to do is to create excitement in my children's rooms. I have a 6-year old boy and an 8-year old girl. What can I do?

ANSWER: My, but you are undertaking a big project! Because this may take some time, you might want to plan accordingly so that you don't hamper those end of school fun times with your children by concentrating on too big of a project in too short of a time. I am assuming that you are wanting to do this yourself rather than having an interior decorator do it for you. It's too bad you can't just order such finished rooms out of a catalog. I imagine that is really an option if a person wanted to look long enough. But imagine the sense of accomplishment you will have when this project is completed. There are unique and inexpensive choices in the world of Faux painting, and this avenue is what I will highlight today. Faux is a current rage. You may already have themes in mind; however, this is your first step. Even though at your children's ages there may be Power Rangers and Barbies all over the place, unless you relish the idea of doing this again in several years, it might be wise to remember that they will be growing up. Thus the room should be decorated so that it can grow with them. This is relevant both in choosing a theme and in any murals you might be considering. Planning is the most important part of the project. Before you start, you will want to know where you will want any murals, where heavy furniture will be located, and where heavy traffic will be entering and exiting. Some have put murals above where a chair rail would come or even in a corner. Others have painted a mural on their children's closet door because this is one spot where furniture will never be put. Once again, when picking your theme or even a mural try to avoid fads or characters that might become out of date. Think ahead about when your son turns thirteen and whether he might be embarrassed by the Power Rangers he thought were so hot when he was eight years old. If you decide to do an entire room in one mural, you still wouldn't have to completely cover every wall. You might get just the effect you want by creating a simple mural. Your budget will probably be the final determining factor in your project. What about a landscape painting for a large blank wall? You can combine free-hand painting techniques with stenciling and create a beautiful and unique wall mural. If you use a Faux finish in the background, you can create more depth and texture. Your imagination is the limit as you create Faux painting masterpieces. How about using colors themselves as a theme and matching with curtains, bedding, and wall decorations? Or what about your son's room done as a "jungle" as that is general enough so hopefully he will be happy all the way up to when he is 10 or 11 years old. Okay. Now it is time to start the work. Think of the four walls as blank canvases for your creativity and debut. Pick a solid color of paint especially if it is a bright and cheery color? Those little hand prints will be much easier to clean off by also selecting a semi-gloss rather than a flat paint. Now try your hand at that Faux finishing on the walls. After the solid color base is on, dampen a natural sponge, dip it into the second color of paint and dab it lightly on the walls. Look at the effect. Remember you can't mess it up. If you don't like it, just paint over the top and try again. Not only will it be a creative project for you, it should be FUN! Here are a couple of specific effects you might consider. What about glitter in your daughter's room? A glitter gun is simple to use to broadcast the glitter onto wet paint. Glitter can be used with any type of paint and comes in silver, gold, or clear and can be purchased at your neighborhood hardware store. Another suggestion for either of the rooms would be to achieve a cloud effect on the wall. You will want to select a blue shade for the background. The actual clouds can then be created by using very extra white paint and then blending in small portions of black to make varying shades of gray. It is important to let the background color dry overnight if possible but at least for 4 hours. Then mix the paint that you will use for the clouds with some Faux finish latex glazing liquid. This will give you more time to work on your cloud creation. You can use a synthetic sea sponge to assist in creating the cloud effect on the painted surface. There are different cloud effects. One is the procedure to actually form a cumulus cloud. Use the sponge and create a horizontal line the length of the cloud. Then add puffs of cloud that rise up from this base. It will be important to blend the edges of the clouds as the glaze color runs from the sponge. You will need a damp clean sponge for this procedure. Another idea is to use magnetic paint in a certain area and then find cute magnets to match the rest of the room décor. Or better yet, hang a magnetic strip around the room as a border at chair rail height. How fun for your children to be able to hang up their artwork that they bring home from school. I hope these ideas will help you to see that it doesn't take a fortune to create excitement and imagination and to transform a child's room into their "fantasy world." So plan and HAVE FUN!

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Home Improvement

Charlie Traffas

2007-02-01 16:23:00

How may I be sure my house is protected for the winter?

ANSWER: If you want to do it yourself, here are a few suggestions: Pick a windy day (after all this is Kansas) and stand near closed doors and windows. If you feel air coming in around the window or door frame, then I can assure you heat is going out through those same openings. Simple solution is to foam strip the door frames with an inexpensive product that may be purchased from a hardware type store. Windows are a little different story. Insulating foam strip may not work on some windows, and you can buy a window kit that can be put up in the winter covering the complete window from frame to frame. They are made out of clear plastic, which allows light and you are able to see through. Foundation leaks are another source of heat loss. This is where the foundation ends and the walls of your home begin; sometimes caulking can be applied direct to the cracks between the 2 structures. This is usually done on the outside of the home. If you have a basement, it could be performed on the inside as well. Now I would like to give a word on furnaces. Have you furnace serviced at least once annually; change the filter at least once per month. An easy way to remember the filter is when your heating bill is received you can use that as a memory kick to get that filter changed or cleaned. A furnace that is not running to peak efficiency can cause you a loss of heat distribution throughout your home. Take advantage of having a professional look at your furnace, look for money saving ads and coupons offered to do a checkup of your furnace. Also, check the insulation in your attic or crawl space or basement if it is unfinished. Proper levels of insulation are important to keep the heat in the rooms from escaping. Again, talk with a professional if you are unsure of whether you have enough insulation or not in all the places that can allow precious heat to escape. Final thought, any upgrade that has to do with saving money on high fuel bills will net you a profit in the long run. After all you’re entire home is your castle! If you’re not up to doing it yourself remember most reputable companies will send a professional contractor out to see you for a free analysis of your home, and what it may cost to bring you peace of mind for the winter months. Make sure they leave you with a written estimate that you can pick and choose what services you would like them to perform. Check with me each month on a tidbit or two that will give you peace of mind for all the needs around your home.

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Home Improvement

Wess Galyon

2007-02-01 13:49:00

Is the remodeling industry changing?

ANSWER: The Wichita Area Builders Association has been producing the Home Show for 53 years. It has always been a very popular local event and, over the years, has expanded to include visitors from all over Kansas. A tour of the parking lot shows a minimum of 30 percent out of county car tags. Most of the people that attend the show are home owners or getting ready to buy their first home. About 38,000 – 42,000 people attend the Show. It maintains its popularity because these people know that they can see just about every home related product in one location. As we always say, it’s the largest window shopping spree around with over 260 exhibiting companies. Every business knows that the people attending are comparing products and doing major research. People feel free to ask questions and not feel pressured. The remodeling industry is changing. People are so busy that they require contractors to do a lot more than they did a few years ago. Design, product knowledge, major help with product selection is expected. Contractors need to be able to present a full package. Many contractors send their customer to the show to expedite this process. PEOPLE ARE PUTTING THEIR MONEY WHERE THEIR ADDRESS IS If a home is 22 years or older, most likely some of the systems are in need of being replaced or at least upgraded. The life of many of the appliances and mechanical systems is nearing an end and surely aren't as efficient and convenient as they need to be. Americans will spend 100 billion dollars this year remodeling. The most sought after jobs are opening up the floor plans, new kitchens, creating master suites, changing window and door systems. Kitchens: Kitchens have evolved from an occupational space where the housewife was isolated behind closed doors, away from family activities, to the social nerve center of the home. It is a high-tech work center, intimate gathering place for family and friends and often the headquarters for managing family affairs. Many kitchens are built to accommodate multiple cooks. Food preparation is becoming a family affair. There will be many kitchen companies at the show as well as appliances. There will even be products for the gourmet cook. Commercial type ranges, built in refrigerators and dishwashers. And laundry equipment that are so quiet as to be almost silent. Master Suites: Home owners have always been willing to spend money on their kitchens but now they’re wanting large bed and bathrooms, the master suite. According to several remodelers and bath supply companies, this is one of the most popular remodeling jobs. It can be accomplished by redesigning the floorplan of the home or in some cases the home owner actually adds on another room for this purpose. This is definitely the time to visit with a professional. The newest fixtures in bathrooms will be throughout the show. Jetted bathtubs are still in great demand and can be put in almost any bathroom. Now you can create what you and your family wants and needs. Hot tubs: Are still very popular. The market has changed a little, they used to be more of a luxury item than anything else. Now the therapeutic and stress relief benefits of this product are carrying it even further into the market. Indoor dry and steam saunas are also becoming more common for the same reason. Financing, insurance, financial planning, security, fence & deck companies, closets, carpet, central cleaning systems, fireplaces, garage doors, water purification systems, windows, doors, lighting fixtures, storage buildings, foundation repair, fitness equipment, concrete sealants, shutters, sprinkling systems, sewing machines, storm shelters, heating & air equipment, windows and doors, vacuum sweepers, cleaners, kitchen utensils, cookware, and a whole lot more..... February 1–4, 2007 Century II Convention Center, Home Show Hours are: Thursday, February 1 1 p.m. to 9 p.m. Friday, Feb. 2 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday, Feb. 3 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday, Feb. 4 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Show prices: Adults $7.00 Senior Citizens $5.00 Children 7 - 12 $2.00 Children 6 and under …. Free Free parking and shuttle bus service to and from Lawrence Dumont Stadium!

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Home Improvement

Michael Gatschet

2007-01-01 16:20:00

I want a home office, but space is limited. What are my options and how feasible are they?

ANSWER: With careful, calculated planning you can have a very functional efficient home office. The options are endless and the planning process is still a common sense process much like planning for a kitchen or bathroom. While I cannot provide a complete solution to your situation in a single answer, hopefully I can steer you towards a beneficial thought process. To begin the process, you must first consider how much space is needed and, more importantly, what will this space be used for. Many people are adding home offices because the organization they work for allows them to telecommunicate. Working from home for many is a very economical way to reduce overhead and saves the drive time for people who would otherwise have to commute frequently. According to an economist with the National Association of Home Builders, Gopal Ahluwalia, 12 million houses nationwide have a dedicated home office space. If you are a professional, who spends eight hours per day or more in your office, often with clients visiting your office, or your business requires a lot of traffic flow, then the problem is solved…create more space! Dedicate a room specific to your office needs or add on an office suited to your type of business. A professional remodelor can help you with that. If you are like most people, however, you need a well-organized place to pay bills, file documents and play on the internet. Everyone's professional time is important, so keep in mind that productivity and efficiency is directly related to your ability to separate yourself from distractions. If your "time is money" and you do not provide a dedicated place to concentrate on work, then the money saved by not providing a professional location will be money lost in the long run. For the most efficient use of space where space is limited, you need to think outside the box. In most offices you will see lots of countertop space being used for printers, fax machines, postage meters, computers, and all the other equipment as well as a cluster of piles of papers. Instead, capture wasted space by making the corner of a room the center of the work area. Most people use this space for all those lost papers and junk mail. Computer monitors can easily fit into this corner space. Spend the money on a good comfortable swivel chair so you can easily move left and right to access both sides of your work station. Above the space, shelves can be built to store the fax machines, printer, paper, and supplies, all of which are readily accessible. A system like this can be custom constructed of finish grade plywood and can be fairly easy to accomplish. Another idea is to utilize the space in a similar way with a pre-made piece of furniture. Be sure to research many different professional office grade furniture resources. One thing to remember is that the supplier will only recommend furniture they sell, so it's important to think about your specific needs. Here are some ideas to help in your planning process. Plan on having more filing space than you think you'll need. Keep extra storage and reference files in a closet and get rid of the magazines, even if you haven't read them yet. If you haven't read them in six months, it's old news. Keep your desk only for things you need most often like the computer, pens, and notepads. You need a minimum of four feet of desktop to work on. Put everything else in drawers, shelves and bins you can store or roll away. The biggest mistake people make when planning a home office is lighting. Even if your office is a portion of another room such as the kitchen, you need both task lighting and ambient lighting. Recessed lights and desk lamps are good examples of lights that need to be considered in the planning phase and should be able to be independently controlled. Take advantage of your existing ceiling light fixture and replace it with a three-spot pendant fixture and strategically focus the spots on work areas. Natural lighting is important, but position your computer monitor at an angle to reduce the glare on the screen. What about your computer? Is it adequate and can you access the internet from this location? Consider this phase in the planning process because it will be less disruptive to make the proper electrical and data cabling modifications now vs. later. Also, a tangled mess of wires is not only unsightly; it is also a pain to work around. The best thing you can do is go wireless wherever you can. Once you do, you'll wonder how you survived before. Try to position electrical outlets close to countertops if possible and in places where they will be needed. It may be necessary for a professional to add a dedicated electrical circuit to your area depending on the electrical devices added. Again, you may not think you need it now, but it will be much easier to do during the remodeling phase than after you are set up. Now that you have planned for all the storage and function, it's still fine to make your home office uniquely yours. Your work space should reflect your personal taste. If you have a particular décor you like, use it in your office. Paintings, photographs, and collectibles can add a personal touch to your work space. Add a bulletin board or dry erase board for posting important information or essential phone numbers and addresses. With careful planning you can count on a functional and comfortable home office. For more resources on finding professional remodelers and other professionals who can help with your home office project, contact the local Remodelors Council at 316-265-4226 or their website at wabahome.com for a list of professionals to help with your needs.

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Home Improvement

John Niedens

2006-12-01 15:48:00

Other than giving a different look, why is Faux stone mixed with Tuscany finishes better than painting the interior walls and ceilings of my home?

ANSWER: Actually, either finish will provide the same amount of protection. It's really all about the aesthetics. Here is the case for Faux Stone mixed with Tuscany finishes. Next month, we can talk about the case for painting. Decorative painting and Faux finishes have advanced during recent years. They have definitely moved past what is remembered as Faux sponging and ragging methods. There is a unique and new dimension for creativity and realism which has emerged that can challenge many of the Old World looks and techniques, as well as to create new plans for interior spaces. It’s not a look for everyone or every situation, but it is a look to consider not only for walls, but also for cabinets, fixtures, ceilings, doors, columns, windows, molding treatments, and even floors. There is a broad scope of finishing designs, ranging from the look of antique to modern. A Faux finish applied to a room's walls can add interest and distinction compared to just painting. The faint display of color balance produces an unparalleled visual element to a room. The idea is no longer just to choose between a small number of finishes, but rather to create a custom look that will boost the final impact of the room, a feel that homeowners and designers try to obtain. The basic technique is called glazing. Faux finishing in its simplest form takes a medium, usually a pigmented glaze, and applies it to a painted surface. Then that medium is manipulated to give it movement and color differential. The varying translucent thickness of the glaze, applied over a solid color, gives the color balance shift. Application types are never-ending. The important aspect is to achieve the desired amount of movement. It can be loud or soft, bold or subdued. Taking the basic glazing concept of a Faux finish one step further, you can take the colors that will work well in the room and overlap them. This will show color shifts throughout the room. These colors can be applied at the same time to the areas where the different pigments meet. Layering adds a toning layer over an existing glaze or Faux finish, and that shifts it in a certain direction. In this regard, you might want to apply a thin layer of white glaze at the end to give the finish an Old World chalky look. The final look for discussion today is called the embedded finish. Glazes, while still wet, can be made to react with different chemicals and mediums. This reaction creates organic patterns that are different thicknesses and that dry at different rates. This gives the Faux painting visual depth. Depending on the chemical medium used, areas of glaze can embed themselves into the bottom layer of paint. This uneven organic quality gives a wonderful Old World look and feel while still keeping the flat to the touch surface. This is ideal for those who want the look of texture but without the work when wanting another change. There is the old technique of applying paint over fresh plaster walls as the wet walls absorb the paint unevenly and give it an organic embedded pattern. This gives a great Faux Old World look to both large and small rooms. This also is excellent as a base in setting up movement under other layers of glaze, a creative tool which adds drama to any finish. Additional information can be found in the next issue.

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Home Improvement

Wess Galyon

2006-12-01 15:48:00

What's new at the 2007 Home Show?

ANSWER: Welcome to Home Show 2007….. The Wichita Area Builders Association is excited to bring to the people of the Greater Wichita and surrounding area Home Show 2007. This year’s "sold out" Show will feature over 250 of the finest exhibitors in the area and throughout the country, all poised to put their best foot forward for all that attend. From truly humble beginnings in 1954, the members of the Wichita Area Builders Association and other quality exhibitors have worked tirelessly together to grow the show while improving the quality of it. Such efforts provide obvious benefits to exhibitors who display their products and services at the Show; but the persons that attend realize the real benefits and that is difficult to put a dollar value on. The Builders Association promotes their Show as the largest composite showroom that anyone can visit at any one time during the year. Attendees can spend as little, or as much, time as they wish examining products or services on display, ask questions of representatives that are displaying their products, collect technical and informative information, and discuss pricing and financing options based on their interest in a particular product or service. At the Home Show the consumer is in charge and exhibitors are there to help you. In preparation for planning to attend the 53rd Home Show, it will be helpful to you, to be aware of some of the highlights of this years Show: Exhibits will be located through all three halls of the Century II Convention Center - Expo Hall, Convention Hall and Exhibition Hall. Many informative seminars will be conducted in Seminar Room #101 - which is located off the Garden Lounge area. (See listings in this publication.) •Tickets to attend will be sold at three entrances - Expo Hall, Convention Hall, and Exhibition Hall. •Child Care will be made available starting Friday evening and running through Sunday evening. •The majority of building product and service exhibits are located in the Expo and Convention Halls. •The retail sales section of the Show featuring an array of products typically used in the home will be in Exhibition Hall. •Concession areas are located in convenient locations for everyone in attendance. •A Garden Lounge is located between Expo and Convention Halls so attendees can take a rest and relax if they so desire. •A number of electronic survey locations will be provided throughout the Show so that anyone interested can provide input as to what you like best about the Show and provide information that will be used to make the Show better in the future. • Numerous public information booths are located in the Exhibition Hall and staffed with City and County employees available to answer any questions attendees have about availability of public services individuals may have need of. • Security is provided at the Show at all times to keep the environment safe for both exhibitors and attendees alike. • Show staff from the Wichita Area Builders Association is available at all hours during the Show to answer questions and assist both exhibitors and the public with their needs. • Free parking is provided at Lawrence-Dumont Stadium and shuttle busses run continuously dropping attendees off at all ticket locations and returning them to the Stadium when they are ready to leave. • Many exhibitors offer Home Show specials or discounts during the Show, which is an added benefit to attendees. • The Show is informative, but is also a fun and relaxing place to be. • While there may be other opportunities and ways to spend ones time, there is not a better place to be during Home Show 2007 that the Century II Convention Center February 1-4. See you at Home Show 2007…Wichita's annual premier Show providing quality information to the people of greater Wichita and surrounding areas for 53 years. Sincerely, Wesley E. Galyon, President/CEO Wichita Area Builders Association

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Home Improvement

Mike Gatschet

2006-12-01 09:28:00

What type of home improvements yield the greatest return on investment?

ANSWER: This is probably one of the toughest questions for any remodeling professional to answer without a firsthand analysis of a particular project at hand. There are so many variables which need to be answered before you will have your answer. Remember, your home has always been a solid investment, and in most households the number one investment. For many homeowners, home improvement projects often pay for themselves through a comparable increase in the home’s value. The decision to protect a very solid investment by improving its marketability is generally always a good decision when done through a thoughtful process with consultation of professionals. When evaluating if a particular project is a good project for “return on investment,” we must look at many factors. When someone calls on for a service, they need to know a little about the project itself and to what extent the client has in mind. They have to know an address and they also consider the area that the home is in. The location of the home gives them the opportunity to look at comparable real estate prices in the area. Recent real estate sales help give them some indicators to the basic value of your home. Knowing the area of town or neighborhood you are in, and based on experience, they can identify how your house is constructed, architectural style, the age of your home, and the traditional marketability trends in that area. They need to know how long you have lived in your home and how long you plan to stay. They also need to know what you have done to it so far to improve it. These are all questions they can prepare for prior to a consultation. Their goal as a professional is to provide a solid recommendation to help determine the best plan of action in your decision. Let me give you an example of why there is no perfect answer, across the board, if a remodeling project will yield a high return on investment. Let’s say you are planning to sell your home or at least market it in the next year or so. Your home is in a neighborhood of similar homes where most homes have 2.5 bathrooms or more. Your home has 1.5 baths, so you are considering adding a bathroom. The typical “return on investment” in the Wichita area averages between 57% to 60%. By adding a bathroom to your home in this situation certainly could greatly change the amount of return. Before this improvement, prospective buyers would probably never even look at your house. Now, the addition of a bathroom brings the house in line with prospective buyers’ expectations. Likely the home could now sell at a price that would be more than the project cost to complete. Incidentally, the top remodel projects that currently give the most return on your investment in the area are projects such as siding replacement, vinyl windows, and projects that add aesthetic value as well as energy efficiency. Other top performing projects such as adding an Attic Master Suite with a bathroom, Kitchen Remodels, Two Story Additions, and Bathroom Remodels are all top performers. Keep in mind, these are based on averages and don’t necessarily take into consideration the individual variables for your particular home. The last consideration, and maybe the most important, is to consider if the improvement will make your life, happiness, lifestyle, and comfort in your home more valuable than the difference in the monetary value not recouped. Remodeling Magazine, in cooperation with Realtor Magazine, provides an annual report titled: Remodeling Cost vs. Value report 2006, which details 25 common home improvement projects in various markets nationwide. The report is used to compare construction costs with resale value nationwide and for 60 specific markets nationwide, including Wichita. The report details a total of 25 projects which are all specified consistently so that survey results can be evaluated consistently. For more information on the Cost vs. Value Report 2006, go to remodelingmagazine.com and click on the prompts to view the report. For any project, keep in mind that resale value and marketability depends on the condition of the rest of the house also. The value of homes nearby and the rate at which property values fluctuate in the area can greatly impact resale value and cost recouped. When resale or cost recouped are major factors in the decision to remodel, ask an experienced Realtor about home prices in the neighborhood. And, by all means, consult with a Professional Remodeler about project costs.

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Home Improvement

Mike Gatschet

2006-11-01 08:56:00

With regards to home improvement certifications, what is a CAPS designation?

ANSWER: The Remodelors™ Council of the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) in collaboration with the NAHB Research Center, NAHB50+ Housing Council, and the AARP developed the CAPS program to address the growing number of consumers that will soon require modifications to stay in their homes. CAPS stands for Certified Aging-in-Place Specialist. This designation is a reliable way to identify professionals to modify your home. CAPS professionals have the answers to your questions when it comes to making your home more accessible to you, so you can age in your home. They have been taught the strategies and techniques for designing and building aesthetically enriching, barrier-free living environments. The CAPS program goes beyond design to address the codes and standards, common remodeling expenditures and projects, product ideas and resources needed to provide comprehensive and practical aging in place solutions. CAPS graduates pledge to uphold a code of ethics and are required to maintain their designation by attending continuing education programs and participating in community service.

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Home Improvement

Mike Gatschet

2006-10-01 15:18:00

QUESTION: How to hire a Professional Contractor?

ANSWER: When considering a remodeling project, how do you find a professional remodeler among the many people that seek your business? Your home is too important to entrust to anyone but a Professional Remodeler. Do you know what to look for when looking for a remodeler? There are many advantages to hiring a professional. Some are obvious, others are not so obvious. A professional contractor can save you money by doing your job right the first time. If the contractor has to keep coming back for repairs, or keeps making mistakes, it can get costly. Custom cabinetry, windows, and various other items involved in remodeling are non-returnable, and if not ordered correctly, can be expensive to fix. Professional contractors understand that effective communication will ensure your comfort during the project, and the successful completion of the project. Your comfort level is very important when dealing with people, as well as safety in your home. A Professional will maintain a safe and neat work site to protect your family, pets, and home. This helps you to continue with your day to day activities without worrying about the project being completed, and the welfare of those you love and value. When looking at Professionals, be sure that the remodeler can: Provide the best possible materials within your budget and assist you in making selections through the vendors they work with. Ensure that your job meets or exceeds applicable building codes and regulations. Provide a warranty for their craftsmanship. Respond promptly to service calls and inquiries. Provide a copy of proper licenses and comprehensive liability insurance upon request. If the contractor can provide you with these services, and fulfill these requests, then you know that the contractor is indeed a Professional. There are, however things to consider before you decide to remodel. Like buying your home, you didn’t just wake up one day and say “I think I’ll call a realtor, and buy a house today”. So why do that when considering remodeling your home? After you have a good idea of what you want, and can afford, speak with friends and family who have remodeled. Get their opinions of different contractors in the area. Use your resources, not just the phone book. Use a search engine online, and look for remodelers in you’re area. Go to the websites of different contractors. Does the site “feel” professional? Look for important information such as Professional Designations, and memberships to the Chamber of Commerce, NAHB or WABA. A good local search engine is 360wichita.com, or you can look on NAHB.org. You can also call the Wichita Area Builders Association or the local Remodelors™ Council and ask for them to recommend a remodeler. Most importantly, once you call on a contractor, seek out references! Call any and all the references they provide that have similar projects to yours. Once you decide which contractor(s) to call, you need to have a good idea of what to look for upon meeting with the contractor, as well as what questions to ask them. Like hiring a babysitter for your children, who you wouldn’t trust to just anyone, you need to interview your contractor with the same train of thought. A few sample questions to ask include: How long has the remodeler been in business under this name? Does the remodeler have strong relationships with experienced independent trade contractors such as plumbers and electricians? What, if any, does the remodeler give back to the community? Ask the contractor for references. Don’t just ask for them… call them! Would they hire them again? Did the remodeler maintain a neat jobsite? Minimal setbacks and delays? Stay on time and on budget? How were problems handled? Does the contractor understand your needs and wants? Does the contractor show an interest in staying on budget? How is the contractor’s communication? Availability?Is the contractor in compliance with Local, State, and Federal laws? After the interview is over, sit back and think over the contractor’s responses. Ask yourself and/ or your spouse: Are you comfortable with the remodeler? Are you satisfied with the answers to your questions, the estimate, and the project? Was there a prompt response to phone calls? Was the contractor on time for scheduled meetings? Did the contractor emphasize service and developing a trusting relationship with you? Was the contractor enthusiastic? Be sure to look for a good track record of a variety of excellent projects, and plenty of experience in your type of project. Always beware of exceptionally low prices. The contractor should provide you with a written estimate as well as an explanation of the specifications and plans and any and all company procedures. Remember, this is your home, you should be completely comfortable with who you hire to make your dreams come true.

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Home Improvement

Dee Hodges

2006-09-01 15:33:00

QUESTION: I am trying to decide on a garage addition. Is a detached or attached garage better?

ANSWER: There are a number of considerations when deciding to add an attached garage or a detached garage. Design, use, code requirements, cost, air filtration from the garage into the home, and city bylaws are some of the major items to think about. If you are contemplating an attached garage, the exterior design will need to fit the design of your home and you need to make decisions about the interior of your attached garage. Detached garages will have all of the same issues, in addition to exterior design. Most garages, attached or detached are used for parking the owner’s vehicles, yard storage and sometimes a small work area. If you plan something more ambitious, such as vehicle maintenance or major hobbies, then these should be taken into account when deciding on the type of garage you will select as well as interior design.Most cities and towns have code requirements covering the construction of attached and detached garages. I would strongly encourage you to check with your local officials for these requirements and also any permit requirements you may need. Your local builder can also generally assist you with city bylaw requirements and all inspections as well.There are many variables that affect the cost of your garage. You may decide to hire a general contractor or manage the construction yourself. If you decide on a detached garage, you may need quotes for excavation, form setting, concrete, carpentry, roofing, electrical, bricklaying if applicable, siding installation etc. However, when a garage building contractor is used, all of these items are typically factored into the cost of the garage, and usually at a better price than if subcontracted out by an individual or house contractor. Building your attached garage can be more costly due to attempting to "tie" the garage into the existing home. Typically, an attached garage needs to be an exact match to the architecture of the home, and sometimes finding the materials to achieve that match can be very expensive. Whereas, a detached garage can be built to look almost exactly like the home but without having to use identical materials.

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Home Improvement

Charlie Traffas

2006-08-01 09:40:00

QUESTION:  Is it better to try and fix my existing garage or tear it down and build a new one?

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ANSWER: There are several things to consider when deciding whether to fix or build a new garage.  The first thing you need to consider is the floor in the existing garage.  If it is cracked or broken beyond repair, one would have to decide between repairing the existing floor and pouring a new one.  You might want to consider the option of building new because it can be really expensive to “jack up” an existing building up and pour concrete beneath it as opposed to pouring a new fresh slab. Furthermore, trying to repair cracked concrete is usually never a permanent solution to this long-term problem, and cracks will usually reoccur if concrete is just patched.
The other thing a person needs to consider is termite damage or dry rot on the wood.  This is a serious issue and a person might want to consider rebuilding if these problems are visible.  Trying to replace damaged wood in an existing structure can be time-consuming and costly.  If problems like these exist, they will usually reoccur. 
The other thing to consider is the type of materials that the old structure was built with.  Lots of times, in order to get exact matches on “vintage” materials, it is very costly, and sometimes impossible.
The last thing a person needs to consider is local building codes.  A lot of buildings built before we adopted unified building codes were not built to today’s standards, and in order to bring these buildings to today’s standards, it can be more costly than building a new structure.  For example, buildings built to today’s standards require concrete footings, whereas building constructed 30 years ago did not.  Therefore, it would be very time-consuming and costly to bring the existing building to today’s code.
The bottom line is if you think a structure may need to be torn down, it probably does.  Believe it or not, you will probably end up saving money building new construction to today’s standards as opposed to trying to bring an outdated, dilapidated building to code.  And in the long run, you will most likely be happier with a modern building built to today’s codes, but keeping in mind the architectural details of the older building to match the home.

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Home Improvement

Dee Hodges

2006-07-01 09:38:00

Question: I have limited lot space and want to know if it would be better to build a garage with a loft space/bonus room or to build a room addition onto my home?

ANSWER: When deciding on a room addition, the homeowner’s needs should be closely considered.  Building a room addition, such as a family room addition, bedroom addition or bathroom can add wonderful new living space to your home, although it may not necessarily add as much to the resale value of your home. On the flip side, the decision to add a garage, detached or attached, with a loft space or bonus room, to a home is one of the best home improvements a homeowner can make. A garage addition provides great utility and can significantly increase the value of a home, and at the very least, you should be able to recoup your investment.  The bonus room has become incredibly popular, working well with many two-story plans, as well as with single level homes. It is so very versatile in that it can be used as a play room for small children, a family room, movie room, study or library, hobby room, workshop or just whatever you want to use it for. These rooms can be anywhere from a single room up to a small apartment, which could either be rented (to recoup some of the investment) or be used as guest accommodations.  Since these bonus rooms are typically built over garage space with raised trusses, natural light may be limited.  To accommodate this, you may consider a couple of windows or dormers to bring in additional light.No matter what your decision is and prior to beginning any addition, a plan needs to be compiled.  In many instances, the homeowner can draw up a simple and basic ‘blueprint’, including layout and the exterior shape and size of the addition. This blueprint will then be a starting point for the homeowner to discuss his or her specifications with a general contractor.  When building a garage or garage addition, the plans may need to include a scaled drawing with dimensions. However, if the homeowner’s ideas regarding an addition become too complicated or complex, then it may be wise to have the general contractor work in conjunction with an architect to ensure that the completed addition blends into the existing home. This is a major factor for resale value. If a room addition or a garage appear as an afterthought to the home, they will be viewed as an afterthought and be unappealing to the neighborhood and to potential homebuyers in the future.

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Home Improvement

Dee Hodges

2006-06-01 08:40:00

Question: What are the best or worst improvements I can make to my home to increase its value?

ANSWER: When deciding on a home improvement or addition, you will want to consider the value that improvement will or won’t add to your home.  Based on my experience, below is a list of what will and won’t add value to your home.The five best investments• Redecorating is probably the cheapest improvement that you can make. Yet the cost of a few gallons of paint can add significant value to your home. • An extra bathroom can also add value to your home.  If the home is fairly large and has several bedrooms with one bathroom, you stand to gain with the addition of another bathroom. However, if the extra bathroom means going from three to two bedrooms, don’t do it.• Garages are important and popular features. Built professionally, they will typically add to the value of a home. At the very least, you should be able to recoup your investment.• Lofts, especially those which add an extra room and maybe even a separate bathroom, can add to the value of a home, as long as they follow the design of the rest of the home and are built by professionals. You want to make them a virtually indistinguishable part of the rest of the home.• Heating system replacements may be expensive and won’t necessarily add to the value of your home. But they are important to maintaining the sale price of your home.The five worst improvements • Plastic double glazed windows. This will cost a bundle, and almost certainly not increase the value of your home especially if the other properties in the area don’t have it. • Creating parking for a car directly outside your home. Yes, it’s probably safer, but you have lost some of your front yard. If you need to do it, try to do it at the side of the property.• New kitchens are popular home improvements but homeowners are unlikely to get back more than their actual investment. In some cases, you will lose money.• Adding a third bathroom to a two-bath house unless you don’t care about ever recouping your investment. In effect, you have just said goodbye to thousands. • New carpet. Surprisingly, new carpets really don’t add to the value of a home. However, if the previous carpet was in horrible shape, a new one will allow you to justify the asking price. In which case, go for the cheapest –neutral – carpet you can find.

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Home Improvement

John Niedens

2006-03-30 14:20:00

QUESTION: My wife and I are planning on hanging wallpaper in our master bedroom and guest rooms. Neither of us have ever worked with wallpaper before. Where do we begin?

ANSWER: In addition to other textures applied to walls, wallpaper can be a key factor in a room, if done properly.After selecting your wallpaper at the local store, making sure it is the right pick for your home, completely read the manufacturers instructions. Save any labels or packaging just in case you need to buy more wallpaper.Lining the wallpaper up properly can be the deciding factor in whether or not the job will look right. It is imperative that the paper is pasted on straight. If your first strip of wallpaper is crooked, the whole job will end up wrong. I recommend that you mark the wall where your strips will hang. This prevents any mistakes from happening later. If the wallpaper that you have is unpasted, place the paper pattern-side down. Using a roller, coat the paper with the manufacturer-recommended paste.If your paper is prepasted, follow the manufacturers instructions.To hang your paper properly, unbook the top of your wallpaper strip and line it up with your mark at the top of the wall. Using a brush or another sliding tool, lightly push the strip against the wall. Keeping your hands wet, slowly unbook the bottom half of the paper, and smooth into place. If you see air bubbles, or the sheet is crooked, carefully pull the sheet back, and replace correctly. Wash off excess paste with a sponge. Repeat the process.

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Home Improvement

John Niedens

2005-12-29 10:13:00

: My husband and I plan on beginning our home remodeling project after the New Year. There is a lot to consider, so how do we make sure that everything ends up the way we want it to?

ANSWER: The first step in the process is to conceptualize your project. Do you have a finite vision on how you want each room to look? You and your husband should go to a friend's home and get ideas. You can also go to stores like the Home Depot and Lowe's, and browse the aisles looking for ideas. While doing this, set a primary objective for your project. What are you trying to accomplish? Do you simply want a new look, or are you looking for more room? Take this concept, and use it as a basis for your project. It is very important to make sure that you have your final idea for each room set in stone before beginning the project. The last thing you would want is to start a large project such as this, and change your mind halfway through. This would cause nothing but headache and hard-earned dollars.Another important aspect to consider in the remodeling project is time. This is also why it is important to conceptualize your task prior to starting. It will save time and money in the end to have all details finalized. All commercial builders use this concept-which is why most commercial projects run more smoothly than personal, residential projects. Also, in remodeling, it is easy to get either entirely enveloped in a project, or sidetracked completely. Before beginning, take the time to set a calendar for your project. Set up a time frame for each room, giving you plenty of time to work’ eliminating the stress factor. Another small detail to consider is moving items out of the way. The last thing you need in a large project such as home remodeling is to spill paint on your grandmother's favorite doily. Pack up what you don't need during the process and put in a box to keep it away from dust and paint. If necessary, cover up important items and furniture with plastic to keep it safe as well.A great way to keep organized throughout the entire process is by keeping a binder, or file on your project. If you are looking for detail, you can even create a tab or subfolder for each room. By keeping files in a cabinet, or even a simple 3-ring binder, all of your paperwork, invoices, color samples, swatches and ideas can be kept in one place.

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Home Improvement

John Niedens

2005-11-01 16:19:00

: We've tried everything we could to spruce up the dull interior of our house and nothing seems to work. The walls and ceilings are so boring. Neither wallpaper nor paint can seem to capture the classy look or vivid atmosphere that we've been looking for. What else can we do?

ANSWER: Liven up your lives by giving your house a makeover! Turning your humble abode into your dream home is much easier and more affordable than you might think. There are plenty of ways to go about doing this, but the question is which one best fits your personality and taste.Many people choose to repaint the walls and ceilings. Brighter colors tend to give a room a little more warmth and depth whereas cooler colors tend to give a room a softer and cozier feel. Who says you have to stick to neutral colors? Don't be afraid to try something bold. Burgundy walls with gold trim and accents can make a living room look like a royal palace. And why limit yourself to just painting the walls? Adding personality to the ceilings is a great way to add charm to your home. Murals are also a beautiful way of making a room one of a kind. No matter what you decide to do, just remember: flatter paints are better in low traffic areas and glossier paints are ideal for high traffic areas.Paint can only take you so far. Maybe it's time to try something new. Adding texture to the wall and ceiling surfaces can be the difference between a nice house and an amazing house. Through the use of different muds, sands and paints, different textures can be achieved, giving your house a more organic and authentic feel. How neat would it be if your walls looked as if they were hewn right out of sand stone or ancient granite? When friends come to visit, they will feel like they've been transported to another time or place. You'll be the envy of the neighborhood. Texturing a surface is also a great way to hide minor flaws such as nicks and dents.  Faux texture is also a great way to go and can be achieved through a technique called faux painting. Faux painting is a style of painting using various brushes, rollers, sponges and other tools to create painted patterns, usually resembling marble, wood, granite and other types of stone. Faux painting can even resemble vines, bricks, stained glass and ornamental decorations.  Another way to spice up your home is by adding decorative objects to your walls and ceilings. Faux stone is great because it's so versatile.  It's usually made of foam and can be painted and textured in a number of ways to resemble real stone. It can be used to create arches, beams, moldings, columns and other decorations that will really highlight your house.When redoing your home, the sky is the limit.  Try to be as imaginative and creative as possible and you'll end up loving your one of a kind home.

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Home Improvement

John Niedens

2005-10-01 14:59:00

: I love my neighborhood, but I'm sick of my house. Is it cheaper to just move and start over or try to make my current house what I'm looking for in a new home?

ANSWER: Really there are three answers to your question: start looking for a home that offers all that you are looking for plus the neighborhood, continue living in your house as it is, or do some remodeling and possibly breathe new life into your old home.Consider how much it will cost you to move into another home. If you move into a house of comparable size, take into account such factors as the price of the house, closing costs associated with the loan, moving expense, add some repair and paint work on the old home, and you could be looking at several thousand dollars just to be located in a different house. Those thousands could go a long way into making your present home 'new to you'.A new car will depreciate the moment you drive it off the lot, but your home and the improvements you perform on it can show you a tremendous return on your investment over the next 10 to 20 years. The term "remodeling" covers a broad area and includes anything from a minor kitchen or bathroom job to a complete expansion which takes up to six months to complete and could give you a breath-taking new home.If you do decide to improve your old home, you might want to start off by making a list of things you like and dislike about the home. Prioritize your list into the top ten things you want, and then set a budget to cover as many things as you can on that list. You will probably wind up eliminating some of the "wants," but the process of setting a good budget will help you get as many things as you desire for your project. Because major remodeling is a major investment, most consumers finance their projects through long-term loans available from a variety of sources, including mortgage companies, banks, and credit unions.Remodeling your home is not only a chance to reshape your home, but you might also find that you can improve upon it. There are interior and exterior paints these days that could last 15-20 years, there are new windows with insulated glass and low-E coatings for energy efficiency, and there are computer software programs that can be used to visualize the entire color scheme before the project begins. You might find that your remodeling job not only makes your house look better, but it could make your house more efficient.The fall and winter months are a great time to begin attending trade shows that specialize in new products for the home and for remodeling. In addition to gathering ideas on improving your home, you might even be able to select your next remodeler at one of these shows. Different remodelers are often on site to introduce themselves. You can study displays of before and after pictures, floor products, tiles for your bathroom, or counter tops for your kitchen. You may also be able to see some custom-made cabinets, state-of-the-art appliances, or sample an outdoor deck.The time you invest in one of these trade shows can offer immediate pay off. They allow you to pack into one day all the shopping and information gathering that would normally take several weeks.

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Home Improvement

Larry Lara

2005-10-01 14:59:00

: I see a lot of different series that are written in your publication.  How about a series on increasing one's home value?

ANSWER: In the past we have talked about fixing those unsightly cracks in concrete; repairing damaged shingles on your roof; and faucet fixtures, accessories and fixing leaks.  This month we will talk about painting the exterior of your home.A fresh coat of exterior paint is a terrific way to give your home a "face lift." It repels weather, protects the investment you've made in your property, and adds curb appeal if you've decided to sell. Painting is a relatively simple do-it-yourself project the whole family can help with. And by inviting friends over, it becomes a social get-together that can be fun. Before You Begin:Because working conditions, safety issues, tools, equipment and skills of the individual can vary greatly. Before beginning any home Do-It-Yourself project, carefully review and understand the instructions or manuals that accompany products, tools and equipment to be used in a project. Make sure to check with the local building department to ensure compliance with codes and regulations related to your project. You should always consult a trained professional with any questions about your specific project's needs or safety concerns. Always know your own limitations and factor in your own good judgment and common sense. But before you get out the brushes and paint, there are some steps you should take to prepare your house for painting. Following these easy "prep steps" will help make sure you wind up with beautiful results that also last a long time.Time Frame:  The times here depend on the size and condition of your house. Estimates for an average sized house: Beginner - 10 to 14 hours  Intermediate - 8 to 12 hours Advanced - 6 to 10 hoursMaterials Needed:  Caulk Sandpaper Rags and/or paper towels Masking tape Tools:  Garden hose Power washer, or Hose brush attachment, orSponges & buckets for wash water Spray nozzle Stepladder Extension ladder Paint scraper Wire brush Putty knives Heat gun, orRotary paint removing tool and electric drill Caulk gun Sanding block Work gloves1. Start by thoroughly cleaning the outside of your home. Paint won't stick to dirt, grease, grime or dust. You may be able to get by just spraying the siding with a hose and nozzle. But you'll do a more thorough job and get better results with a brush attachment for your hose. These brushes often come with a reservoir for liquid soap. You can also wash by hand with rags or sponges. If you do use soap, be sure to rinse the siding after you've washed it. Begin at the top and work your way down the sides of the house. If your siding has areas of mold, mildew or discoloration, wash it with an anti-fungal cleaner, available in most hardware and home center stores.2. On wood siding, fill in any gouges or holes with an exterior-grade patching compound, sometimes called "plastic wood." If damage is more extensive, replace the area with a new piece of siding.    3. Remove even small areas of loose, flaking, chalky or blistered paint thoroughly. If not too extensive, this can be done with a paint scraper, putty knife and wire brush. Loose paint can also be removed with a power washer. Sand the edges of the area of removed paint afterwards to help the new paint cover and hide the edge.    4. To remove larger areas of damaged paint, or multiple layers, you can use a heat gun. This device, which looks a bit like a hair blower, generates temperatures of 1000° F or more. Aim it at an area to soften the paint, and then scrape away the paint with a putty knife.Use work gloves and keep your hands away from the barrel of the gun. Never point the heat gun at anything except the paint to be removed. Set the gun down on the butt plate provided.   5. An alternative to the heat gun is a rotary paint remover you attach to an electric drill. Its stiff wire tines quickly remove large areas of paint. Take care not to press too hard on the siding, or it may gouge the wood. Practice on a board or other surface before you begin on the siding. Keep the tool away from your face or other body parts when it is in motion.    Caulk all cracks, seams and gaps with a top-quality, paintable exterior caulk. This includes areas like the perimeter where siding meets windows and doors, corners and the edges of exterior trim. Cracks and seams leave edges where fresh paint can quickly begin to deteriorate. For detailed tips and procedures see the tutorial on exterior caulking.   Mask off areas that are not to be painted. You may want to place masking tape along the edge of house trim, and around window and door frames and trim, since this is likely to be painted in a different color or with higher sheen paint. You can also tape newspaper or plastic drop cloth material over windows and doors, including sliding glass doors, to protect them from drips. Place plastic drop cloths over plants and shrubs, or where paint may drip on porches, roof sections, sidewalks, driveways or other surfaces.

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Home Improvement

Larry Lara

2005-09-01 14:36:00

: I see a lot of different series that are written in your publication.  How about a series on increasing one's home value?

ANSWER: Thank you... we welcome the opportunity.  With home values increasing as rapidly as they are, it makes more sense than ever to do all that you can.  Quite often, it doesn’t take much expense to make a lot of difference.  This month, we’ll talk about the roof.The roof of your home is its "Crowning Glory", but how often do we as homeowners look up? Your home's roof is the first line of defense in keeping the elements out. A common problem among both new and old roofs alike is damaged shingles. Wind, falling tree limbs, or just normal wear and tear can damage shingles. If your roof has Asphalt Shingles, as the majority of homes in our area do, take a moment and check out your roof for any possible damaged shingles. Replacing damaged shingles will prevent more expensive damage from occurring later, and you can Do-It-Yourself.Before You Begin:Because working conditions, safety issues, tools, equipment and skills of the individual can vary greatly. Before beginning any home Do-It-Yourself project, carefully review and understand the instructions or manuals that accompany products, tools and equipment to be used in a project. Make sure to check with the local building department to ensure compliance with codes and regulations related to your project. You should always consult a trained professional with any questions about your specific project's needs or safety concerns. Always know your own limitations and factor in your own good judgment and common sense. This project involves standing on your roof. If you are afraid of heights this might not be the best project for you to attempt. Always keep in mind that roof pitches are very deceiving. What appears to be a moderate slope and potentially easy to stand on might be very dangerous. It is essential that you have a good strong ladder. Do not attempt this project if you are unsure of your ladder's stability.Time Frame:Beginner - 2 hours  Intermediate - 1 hour Advanced - 1/2 hourMaterials Needed:  Roofing cement (in caulk tube) Galvanized roofing nails Shingles Tools:Ladder Small pry bar Putty knife Caulk gun Hammer Paper towel or ragsThe information provided here deals with replacing a single shingle. The steps are the same for replacing multiple shingles. In order to remove the damaged shingle, you will need to loosen the first row of good shingles above the damaged one(s). Use a pry bar or putty knife to gently pry away the adjacent shingles so that good shingles are separated from the damaged one.  Once the surrounding shingles are completely separated, gently rock the damaged shingle back and forth to remove it. Continue this process until all the damaged shingles have been removed.  Next, remove the existing nails. Lift the uppermost good shingle, and pry the nails out, being extremely careful not to damage surrounding shingles (a small block of wood under the pry bar will help). Try to remove as many nails as possible where you removed shingles.  If there are nails that you simply cannot remove, drive them flush to the roof with a hammer. There should be roughly 4 nails for each shingle. Do not leave any nails raised above the sheathing.  Prep the area for the new shingle by patching any holes or tears in the felt underlayment. One of the easiest ways to do this is to apply roofing cement using a caulk gun. Squeeze out some cement and spread it thinly and evenly over the damaged area with a putty knife. Cover the nails that were hammered flush with the roof sheathing and with the cement as well. Have some rags or paper towels available as the cement can be very messy! If you are installing multiple shingles, always start at the lowest shingle removed and work your way up. Align the first shingle with the existing shingles and attach it with 4 galvanized roofing nails (or with the number of nails the manufacturer recommends). Nails should be driven in ¾" above the shingle tabs. Continue applying shingles upwards and being very careful that the new shingles line up properly with the existing ones.  Gently pry up the upper most existing shingle, being careful not to crack it and carefully slide the final shingles into place and nail them accordingly. It's always a good idea to put a small dab of roofing cement on the last shingle where the top good shingle will come into contact with the new shingle. Do not be concerned that your new shingles do not stick to each other. The shingles are manufactured with a roofing cement strip, which becomes extremely tacky with a few warm, sunny days and will ensure a tight seal against the elements.More on increasing home values next month.

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Home Improvement

John Niedens

2005-09-01 07:39:00

:  Which is better for interior painting, Latex or Oil based paint?

ANSWER: There are three basic terms used to describe paint products: latex, oil and alkyd. The main difference between these types of paint is when you should use each.Latex paints are water-based, durable and lower in odor than oil-based products. Plus, latex paints can be cleaned up easily with soap and water. For these reasons, latex is preferred for most interior surfaces. Quality interior latex paints provide better long-term flexibility; resistance to cracking and chipping. Latex paints also tend to resist yellowing with age in areas protected from sunlight. They emit fewer odors and are not flammable. Latex paint takes a shorter amount of time to dry than oil paint. Oil paints are durable and resist scraping and wear and tear. Most contain alkyd - a soya-based resin - that dries harder than latex. Since these paints are solvent-based, brushes and spills must be cleaned up using paint thinner. Oil-based paints offer superior one-coat hiding and better adhesion to difficult surfaces. Oil-based paints allow for greater open-time (length of time the paint may be brushed before it sets), superior resistance to blocking (or face-to-face sticking), and resistance to abrasion and moisture, once cured. The down side of using oil-based paints is that it tends to yellow with age and the odor is stronger than Latex-based paints.In deciding paint types, you will want to consider the sheen, or gloss. The higher the gloss level, the shinier the appearance, and the more scrubbable the finish will be:• Flat paints are ideal for low-traffic areas such as formal dining rooms and master bedrooms and provide a matte coating that hides minor surface imperfections. • Eggshell paints provide a smooth finish with a subtle sheen that is slightly glossier than flat. It is washable and scrubbable and ideal for bedrooms, hallways, home offices and family rooms. • Satin paints go a step above eggshell in scrubbability, providing a nice balance between washability and subtle gloss. They perform and look great in just about any room. • Semi-gloss paints ensure maximum durability. They are commonly used in children's rooms and high-moisture areas such as bathrooms, and for trim. • High-gloss paints are highly reflective and work well for highlighting details, such as trim and decorative molding. They are also the best choice for doors and cabinets, or any area that sees a high volume of abuse. • Ceiling flats are designed specially for ceilings. These are usually extra spatter-resistant.

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Home Improvement

Larry Lara

2005-09-01 07:39:00

: I see a lot of different series that are written in your publication.  How about a series on increasing one's home value?

ANSWER: In the past we have talked about fixing those unsightly cracks in concrete; and repairing damaged shingles on your roof.  This month we will talk about faucet fixtures, accessories and fixing leaks.Faucets are available in an ever-increasing variety of types and styles, no matter if they are for the kitchen or bathroom. Aside from the standard chrome faucet with compression type valves, there are also faucets that use ball valves, cartridges and even ceramic discs, all available in stainless steel, brass, or colored enamel finishes. Consider the size, finish, and function to make sure you have the right faucet. Choosing the right faucet may seem confusing, but it really boils down to just three considerations, size, finish, and function. Size refers to how the holes are configured on your sink as well as general considerations of whether or not the handles will have enough room to swing around. The finish, aside from what you think looks good, is best evaluated by the length of any guarantee the manufacturer offers. Finally, function refers to the method in which the faucet operates; one or two valves, or a levered operation. Before You Begin:Because working conditions, safety issues, tools, equipment and skills of the individual can vary greatly. Before beginning any home Do-It-Yourself project, carefully review and understand the instructions or manuals that accompany products, tools and equipment to be used in a project. Make sure to check with the local building department to ensure compliance with codes and regulations related to your project. You should always consult a trained professional with any questions about your specific project's needs or safety concerns. Always know your own limitations and factor in your own good judgment and common sense. Time Frame:Beginner: Depends on your particular project  Intermediate: Depends on your particular project Advanced: Depends on your particular projectMaterials Needed:  Your shopping list will depend on your specific plumbing project. Tools:  Your shopping list will depend on your specific plumbing project.  1. The basic parts of a faucet are as follows; the tail piece (a), The distance between tail pieces (b), the mounting nut (c) to hold the faucet to the sink, the supply tube (d) for supplying the water to the faucet, the shutoff valve (e) where the supply of water to the faucet can be turned off before commencing repairs, the aerator (f) mixes the water coming out of the spout with air to prevent splashing, the control valve (g) detailed in the next four steps, controls the flow of water out of the spout.   2. Faucets with compression valves are almost always made with separate hot and cold valves. What distinguishes a compression valve from other types is that it will have a rubber washer at its base that compresses against a valve seat to shut off the water. Often this action of the washer compressing against the valve seat can be felt as a slight increase in turning resistance as you shut off the water. To repair a compression type valve you most likely will have to replace the rubber parts or replace/resurface the valve seat.   3. Faucets with ball-type valves are found on single handle faucets. Typically, a ball valve's action is like a car stick shift only with left and right motions controlling the hot and cold and front and back to control the flow. Repair involves replacing  the rubber parts, which are typically sold in kits. Replacement balls are usually sold separately.   4. Faucets with cartridge type valves are available in both single and double handle styles. The double handle styles operate just like compression valves with the exception that the action is completely consistent with no need to apply any extra pressure when closing the valve as you do sometimes with compression valves. The action for single handle faucets resembles that of ball valves except that the flow is controlled by raising or lowering the handle, instead of pushing it front or back. Repair of these valves involves replacing the entire cartridge. This is convenient as the cartridge often contains all the parts subject to wear.    5. Faucets with ceramic discs are a relatively recent development. Their operation is virtually indistinguishable from cartridge type valves. Because of their design, if there are problems you should only have to take them apart and clean the parts to repair leaks.   6. There are three basic hole configurations for mounting faucets on sinks. The most popular configuration is two holes that are four inches apart on center (measured from the center of the holes) with a center hole between them (three holes total). Another similar configuration is two holes eight inches apart on center with a center hole between them (often called a spread set configuration). Finally, there might be just a single hole, a common configuration for newer sinks and faucets.  7. Working on faucets requires some specialized tools. Aside from the usual wrenches and pliers that can be found in most toolboxes, you should also have a basin wrench (a) for turning faucet mounting nuts from under a sink, a set of deep sockets (b) for removing shower/bath valves, a seat wrench (c) for unscrewing valve seats, a seat-dressing tool (d) for resurfacing non removable seats, and a handle puller (e) to safely remove handles that are stuck.

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Home Improvement

Larry Lara

2005-07-01 12:17:00

:  I doubt there is anything more unsightly than oil stains on a garage floor.  Floor dry helps, but is there anything else one can do?

ANSWER:  You might want to consider having your garage floor coated.  It is a great way to preserve the surface and keep your cleaning to a minimum. It also makes your garage floor look great.A quality floor coating system will provide you with freedom from oil and grease stains, ease of maintenance and clean up, enhance lighting and eliminate that ugly, dirty feeling you get from raw concrete and provide years of durable, chemical and scratch resistant shine. Common stains on the garage floor caused by motor oil, transmission fluid, and coolant, rust, and tire marks can be wiped clean with a paper towel. Preparation and the product that you choose are the key ingredients to creating a garage flooring system that will last. The most common failure in coated concrete surfaces is hot tire peel, wherein the coating is literally lifted off of the concrete after becoming attached to a hot tire that has parked on the floor. The two most common causes of this failure stem from improper preparation/cleaning of the concrete before application, or the application of an inferior product. Most importantly, it must be said that the best surface preparation in the world will not last with an inferior coating material, as well as the best material made will not adhere to a poorly prepared surface.Preparation of the surface begins with acid etching or grinding, or a combination of both. Next, any open, cracks and/or larger surface blemishes and imperfections including expansion joints if applicable, are patched and repaired.Floor coatings can often be completed in one day by a qualified installer.  Your garage is ready for your vehicles to move back within 24-hours.  You will find that a garage floor coating will provide value-added, clean and usable floor space, and end up increasing the useable square footage of your home.

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Home Improvement

Larry Lara

2005-07-01 11:46:00

: What is new in the area of garages?  It seems like every room in the home has had advancements.  Has the garage been left behind?

ANSWER: Male or female, garages have always been considered to be one of the most important rooms of our homes. Today more than ever.  No longer is the garage considered an extension of our house, but often times it is the only entrance that we use. It's where we unload the groceries, our pets, and our children. It's the last room we see in the morning before leaving for the day, and the first room to welcome us home at night. The garage is where we store our beloved vehicles, work on projects, or just spend time tinkering. Yet most garages are full of hazards. For some reason, we're willing to squeeze ourselves through the obstacle course of lawn equipment, children's toys, and those boxes that we keep meaning to go through just to enter our homes from the garage. Wouldn't it be nice if we cared as much about the appearance (and the safety) of our garages as we do the interior of our homes?Here are a few tips on keeping your garage better organized, secured, safe and clean:   • Free up floor space and reduce tripping by hanging the clutter when you can. It's so easy just to dump stuff on the floor of your garage. But that can mean dangerous piles of materials and objects that children can climb or you can trip over. Walls should not be the home of leaning shovels, rakes, lawn chairs, bikes and other sharp objects. Keep stairs, steps, landings and all floors clear of clutter. It's just safer.• Life really is better when things are in their proper place. Dangerous products are safer when you store them in a locked cabinet. Storing sports equipment keeps kids from exploring potentially dangerous areas of the garage.• Store heavy equipment on higher shelves and the light stuff down below. It will actually be easier and safer to get to what you want. And always be careful not to overload shelves.• Have you ever thought about the air quality in your garage? Carbon monoxide poisoning is a dangerous possibility, so always pull the car out of the garage after starting it. Carbon monoxide can enter the home if cars are left running in the garage, even with the garage door open.• There's no reason for your garage to be dark. Make sure garage and stairwells are well lit. Use the maximum safe wattage in light fixtures. And when light bulbs are used near a work area, protect them with a substantial guard to reduce the risk of breakage and fire.• Do you own a fire extinguisher? Do you know how to use it? Do your kids? It's not hard, but you need to learn as it could save your life. Install smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors to assure an early warning. Keep a first aid kit where it's visible and handy.• Don't invite pests. Raccoons, squirrels, or mice can completely destroy your garaged car, chomping on wiring, eating upholstery, and taking up residence in vents and air intakes. Leaving garbage or uneaten food in your garage or car is an open invitation.• Store gasoline only in approved containers, and make sure they're free from corrosion and sealed tightly. • Clean up spills when they occur. Other fluids or substances, even if not flammable by themselves, may combine with dust or oil to form a flammable combination. They may also be dangerous to children or the family dog or cat. Be especially careful with volatile cleaning solutions and coolant. Consider getting a garage mat to catch spills and make cleanup easier. Store oily shop rags in a sealable metal container, or throw them away.• As car batteries get old and will no longer hold their charge, they could possibly explode and either ignite a fire or cause chemical burns. Discard old batteries at a recycling center and leave ones with some life left connected to a sophisticated battery charger that guards against overcharging.• Make sure all power tools, extension cords, and adapters are unplugged and properly stored out of children's reach. Store ladders sideways, not upright, so that they don't possibly tip over on children or your vehicles. • Keeping automotive products in their original packages will assure that you don't mistake one for another, and it will also help you more quickly find aid for accidental ingestion or skin contact.• Every garage should have some sort of ventilation, whether it's a professional system, a fan, or just ceiling vents. Make sure all the vents have a mesh covering, to keep the pests away.• If you have items of high value in the garage, blocking off the windows will help keep thieves away.• If you have an automatic garage door, keep the remote controls away from children. Have the doors inspected and maintained regularly, and know how to disengage and release the automatic mechanism in case of an emergency.Finally, always check with your insurance agent that you have the necessary coverage against fire and physical damage, and that all vehicles, especially hobby vehicles, are covered. Keeping a safe garage, you should never need it, but the relatively low cost of such coverage makes it a must-have.

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Home Improvement

Marvin Niedens

2005-07-01 10:52:00

: I read where adding ‘stone’ to your home's decorating scheme is hot right now in Tuscany décor. What are some of the uses?

ANSWER: When it comes to home décor, adding stone is literally the salt of the earth. Natural stones and rocks from the earth itself bear this evidence. Even bricks, which are made by man, begin with clay and other elements of the earth. Stone is used in Tuscan style decorating very effectively in kitchens and in bathrooms. Other uses include fireplaces and hearths as well as in foyers and other entrances. Creating a faux stone wall adds an immediate Tuscan air to any room. Before choosing stone for your Tuscan style, know the physical qualities of any stone you're considering. Before you decide which stone to use and where to use it, you need to know its limits. The three most commonly used stones are granite, limestone and marble. • Granite is strong, long-lasting and heat-resistant. This stone creates a stunning Tuscan style decorating focal point, but is expensive. • Limestone is natural in appearance, but very absorbent and stains easily. It is typically used in flooring and for shower interiors but is not recommended for areas that receive frequent traffic. • Marble is soft and porous, unsuitable for kitchen countertops, recommended for bathrooms and floors. Stripes are good.Beside stone, metal is another salt of the earth material which is popular in Tuscan style decorating. Instead of using highly polished metals that have a shiny appearance, you'll be incorporating metals from the past. Select basic tin pieces to create a feeling of genuineness. You can go as basic or bold as you like from doing a simple picture frame to a tin insert for an antique cabinet. Mix in other unpolished metals like copper, iron and pewter as well for dramatic effects.

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Home Improvement

Marvin Niedens

2005-06-01 09:50:00

: My new home has 12-ft. ceilings, which I love, but I can't decide on a paint scheme to compliment the height. Can you help?

ANSWER: Any time you have high ceilings to work with, you want to accentuate them, which will make the room feel loftier. It's easy to focus only on the space from the floor to about 6 feet up from the floor. This space is mostly occupied by furniture, art, and people. But it is a common question about what to do with the space above one's head.First, think about color. For some, a warm and cozy red library or fireplace room makes an ideal spot for gathering family and friends. Others would trade the intensity of red for a lighter, soothing tone. Ambers, peaches or corals in eating areas spark appetites and encourage conversation and shades of yellow nurture creativity. For rooms where rest and relaxation is desired, choose pacifying colors such as blue, green and purple. These colors are calming.With a quick change of paint on your walls, you'll feel the mood shift throughout the room. Warm colors make small rooms appear smaller and large rooms more cozy. Cool colors recede and make any size room appear larger. Because they also make a room feel colder, these colors make sense for a sunny room where the brightness needs to be held in check. Paint chips, or paint cards are available at most stores that sell paint. These are free to take home and try-out in the area that you are hoping to change. To get a clearer idea of the true paint color, cut away any white spaces on the paint card. Then, check your paint choice against the colors it will be used with in your home. The small size of color chips also makes it hard to envision that color on an 8x10-foot wall. What looks appropriate on the small card will appear more intense on the wall. To get a better idea of how your color will really look, hold the chip against the wall. If you're tempted to go bold, consider stepping a shade or two lighter on the color card since dark colors will appear even darker when seen in large amounts. Selecting a slightly grayed-down version of the color is another way to soften its intensity. Drying makes a difference, too. Usually paint dries to a darker shade. Sheen changes color value as well. A flat, matte paint differs in value from the same color in a shiny, glossy finish. The shinier the color, the lighter it will look. Texture also alters color. Smooth surfaces reflect light, so a heavily textured wall will appear darker than a smooth wall painted the same color.

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Home Improvement

Marvin Niedens

2005-05-01 09:03:00

What color says Tuscany to you?

ANSWER: When we talk about places, typically it's the things we see, people we meet or foods we eat that form our words. Well, not Tuscany. This is the land more often than not defined by colors: sienna and terra, sepia or azurro. Where else would they name a whole city after a color: sienna? Think about it. When you picture this region, what comes to mind...colors. The rolling golden wheat fields of summer framed by indigo skies and Michelangelo clouds. Old ladies dressed in black perched on benches before whitewashed walls and terra cotta bricks. Never fixed, it's the changing hues from dawn to dusk; green fields of winter which turn parched by mid-august and show the dirt by fall. And why not, it's these colors with their significance that makes this a paradise. The rich red earth of tuffo and cotta which provides the perfect balance for the olives and vines. Endless azure skies allowing as much sunlight as the plants will take and ensuring that an afternoon siesta never goes out of fashion. And the colors of a meal...sepia pasta with porcini fired over the grill; bruschetta topped with olive paste and pommodoro; and of course the oil. That golden oil which is at times lime or reddish or pure molten ore. If you don't believe me, try it yourself. Describe Tuscany without using a single reference to color...I bet you can't do it.

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Home Improvement

Marvin Niedens

2005-03-01 10:09:00

: What is meant by Tuscany Décor?  Is it for modern homes?

ANSWER: In Italian, "Benvenuto ala Villa" translates to "Welcome to my home".  It expresses what makes a Tuscan home authentically Tuscan…a celebration of the joy and warmth found in welcoming guests to your home. Tuscan style homes and furnishings are one of the most sought after interior design elements today. Infused with hearty materials such as hardwoods, terra cotta, stone, and brick, Tuscany décor is a throwback in style that matches the look that people seek in their home decorating today…rustic, simple, and solid comfort. Tuscany brings to mind rolling green hillsides, vineyards and farmhouses. That image alone may be responsible for the current decorating craze. It's a style that might also be called the original European "Shabby Chic"; crumbling stone walls, moss-covered rock patios, and any element that is stained, old, and well-used. Tuscan decorating is rustic, warm, and inviting, with a few simple, sturdy details. A Tuscan room often looks as though it has been there forever, well-loved and used over many generations. We have Tuscany to thank for some of the most appealing words in our decorating vocabulary: loggia, portico, patios, villas, and outdoor kitchens. These terms evoke thoughts of relaxing summer days spent outdoors amid warm splashes of sun and lush greenery. No wonder so many of us are in love with this style. True Tuscan rooms are low-ceilinged, dark, and small. Modern homes can easily be modified to achieve a Tuscany feel. Instead of dark rooms with low ceilings, the effect can be produced with the use of a variety of color washing and faux wall techniques appropriate to Tuscan interiors. Look for mottled, uneven colors, and old-world, time-worn finishes in warm golden tones springing from a range of earthy ochre's, deep gold's, sunny yellows, rich browns, and warm terra cottas, accented with deep blues, black, rusty reds, and olive greens. Tuscan themes include agricultural products such as olives, grapes, and flowers. Flooring in a Tuscan room might be brick, clay tile, or uneven stone. Architectural features include arched niches, rustic ceiling beams, and simple moldings to underscore a Tuscany theme. Chicken wire cupboard door fronts are another Tuscan element than can easily be incorporated into kitchen cupboards or an armoire. Use copper pots, tin accents, marble, and stone in a Tuscan kitchen. Decorate with sturdy pine storage pieces, a big farmhouse table or island, and bunches of hanging herbs. The earth tones you can bring into your home, inspired by a Tuscan landscape, provides a tranquil yet grounding atmosphere.

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Home Improvement

Wess Galyon

2005-01-01 08:51:00

: What can we expect at the Home Show this year?

ANSWER: The Wichita Area Builders Association (WABA) kicks off its annual Home Show event on Thursday, February 3, 2005, at Century II Convention Center. Home Show 2005 is the 51st show for WABA, and will feature over 250 different booths representing a wide variety of interior and exterior home products and services for virtually every aspect of a home, from floors to ceilings, interiors and exteriors including outdoor living, decorating and improving, constructing and remodeling and more. The Show maintains its popularity because consumers know that they can see just about every home related product in one location, and while attending the Show can compare products and conduct research right there without feeling pressured. As we always say, "It's the largest window shopping spree around". The Wichita Area Builders Association is a Trade Association whose membership consists of builders and persons in allied trades, industries and professions. The primary objective of the Association is to work toward providing quality, affordable housing and homeownership for the greatest number of people possible. The Association strives to promote a better understanding between the industry and the general public in regard to housing issues and acts as a liaison between the building industry and all levels of government whose actions impact efforts to maintain housing affordability; promoting adherence to an industry adopted Code of Ethics and high professional standards and business priorities among its members to the mutual benefit of both the consumer and the housing industry as a whole.Home ownership strengthens the social fabric of the nation. By encouraging civic participation and involvement in schools and communities and inspiring the upkeep and improvement of the home, homeownership fosters good citizenship. Safe, decent and comfortable housing in general and homeownership in particular, are also a positive influence in children's lives. Children of homeowners stay in school longer and are more likely to become productive citizens, according to a study by the University of Chicago. The benefits to children are even more pronounced among low-income households, the study found.The Home Show opens February 3, 2005 and runs through February 6, 2005 at Century II Convention Center. Check the ad in this publication for hours and admission costs. Remember, there is free parking and shuttle bus service from Lawrence Dumont Stadium.Whether you're considering building, remodeling or redecorating, Home Show 2005 is the place to be!

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2005-01-01 08:42:00

: Recently we entered into an agreement with a remodeler, to remodel our kitchen and great room, and to build a new attached garage.  The total came to $134,000.  After 6 months and a dozen or more delays in construction, the remodeler basically went into a 'stall'.  We have paid this remodeler $96,000 to date.  Now he will not return our phone calls and there has been no one on the job for several weeks.  We have hired an attorney and it looks like it's going to be a 'nightmare' to get it resolved.  We hired another remodeler who we checked out a bit more thoroughly.  It’s going to cost $90,000 more to finish the job.  My questions are:  How can something like this happen?  What should we have done?

ANSWER: The remodeling industry is no different than any other industry.  As a whole, it is a tremendous industry, providing millions of jobs throughout the country.  However, as with any industry, there are those who are less committed, and care more about serving themselves than their customers.  Things like this might be a little more glaring than most industries, because the price of errors is so high. My answer should work for both questions.  While there are several 'watchdog' agencies that can assist in precluding a 'nightmare' such as this from happening, the ultimate responsibility will always rest with you… the customer.   Each remodeler is required to have a license for the area in which he/she remodels.  There are 'guild' groups in the market like Wichita Area Home Builders, and the Wichita Remodeling Council, that do a wonderful job of policing their own and putting out guidelines for their members.  But they can only go so far.  The biggest thing you have to do is what is called in any industry… 'due diligence'.  Here is what I would recommend anyone do before signing an agreement to have work performed. • Decide whether it makes a difference to you if the remodeler has employees or sub contracts out all of the work.  In the case described above, if there is a problem, you will deal with the remodeler only if his/her employees do the work.  If he/she sub contracts out the work, you might be dealing with several entities… and never get anything resolved. • Ask the remodeler to show you his remodeling license for the area you in which you live. • Ask the remodeler to show you proof of affiliations with different guilds in the market. • Ask the remodeler to show you at least 5 different jobs he has done in the last 12 months, in the area you are remodeling.  For example, if you are remodeling a kitchen, ask him to show you five kitchens he has remodeled in the last 12 months.  Ask if you can contact these homeowners.  If he/she has not done at least 5 jobs like yours, do you want him/her to do yours?  Some remodelers tackle jobs they should not, but do because they are a remodeler and they figure a remodeler should be able to do everything.  It may also be useful information for you if they do not want you to contact the homeowners for whom they worked. • Your remodeler should have an established presence in the community.  Ask how long they have been in business, not how many years of service.  Longevity suggests financial stability. • Does the remodeler  maintain solid relationships with experienced independent trade contractors (such as plumber and electricians) and work with them as a team to keep your job running smoothly? • Make sure your remodeler carries insurance that protects you from claims arising from property damage or job site injuries.  Be sure and ask for a copy of the remodeler's insurance certificates so you can be sure you will not be liable in these situations for property damage or job site related injuries.   Go by the remodeler's place of business; talk to the owner or one of the employees. Ask yourself if you feel comfortable with the remodeler and confident that the company can do the project to your satisfaction.

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Home Improvement

Bob Veazey

2004-09-01 12:34:00

: My basement is not currently used for living space but I am in the process of finishing it. My problem is, I have spiders and other insects that come in through my window seals, what can I do to solve this problem?

ANSWER: One suggestion would be to hire an exterminator not only for the inside of your home but also for the area around the exterior. Another would be installing window coverings; this will greatly reduce the amount of moisture around the window area that could be attracting bugs and pests. One might consider both options to ensure protection! The window coverings are installed to the outside of your home and with their bubble design, allow rain to run away from the windows instead of building up around them. This will also reduce the amount of damage caused by moisture to your window seals. Windows coverings are generally found to be made of two materials; clear-ridged vinyl or acrylic. The ridged vinyl is 1/32nd of an inch thick, where the acrylic is 3/16th inch thick. The thick acrylic plastic better resists damage caused by natural elements and lawn equipment. Besides being thicker than ridged vinyl, acrylic window coverings are easier to install, non-yellowing, and offer a longer life span. Better protection of your window seals will prevent windows from rusting and help prevent wood deterioration. Uncovered basement window wells are open pits that can cause injury for people and pets unfortunate enough to fall into them. They are also favorite spots for thieves to gain access into your home. Window wells provide safety and security, as they cannot be opened from the outside. Wildlife experts recommend that all window wells be covered to prevent animals from falling inside and ultimately dying. Window wells over 4 inches deep are essentially traps waiting to catch some unsuspecting animal that falls in. In our experience the most common animal found in window wells is skunks. Skunks have poor eyesight and when walking at night regularly fall into these wells as they walk alongside your home. Covering your window well will prevent this unfortunate occurrence from happening.

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Home Improvement

Jim Price

2004-08-01 11:51:00

Question: We are thinking of remodeling our kitchen.  What are some things to look for we may not think about?

ANSWER:  (second  part of series... see July ‘04 issue for part one)Floor ConsiderationsCommon problems are wood rot at floor level or the intrusion of wet and dirt along the line where the cabinet fronts and sides join the floor.  This can be prevented by laying on the floor a concrete base just sufficient in height to hold back the depth of water that may be expected to lie on the floor during cleaning - say half an inch, with other dimensions to suit the structure which is to stand upon it. This will avoid both wood rot and the need for any floor cleaning within the area covered by the cabinets. Ideally a similar base will be provided for all stationary items standing on the kitchen floor, e.g. refrigerator, washing machine. If conditions permit (which is not often the case), the continuation of this low base across doorways will isolate the kitchen floor from the rest of the house and will ease wet cleaning of the kitchen floor. An alternative to a plinth would be to fit waterproof coving to the floor so that equipment could be stood within it; but this might turn out in use to be rather fragile.A better solution is to start off by laying the kitchen floor with a fall to a drain so that all water poured on the floor makes its way to the drain and the whole character of floor cleaning is changed. The amount of water used in cleaning will be greater and a higher base is required to ensure no overflow and doorways need special consideration (easy if all are on the high sides of the floor). This base should be about 1 ¾" above the floor at its closest point to the floor in order to leave space for a brush to get under edges and into the corners during washing down.The floor covering can be either square edged tiles laid tight together as in swimming pools with coving tiles along the edges, or good quality synthetic floor-sheeting, coved at the edges, and welded at all joints.The Worktop CornerIf the worktop extends on both sides of a corner the space is usually best utilized by fitting a "Carousel" which has two circular shelves and which can be revolved under the worktop to bring the required portion of the shelf out into the corner opening.Wall and Worktop ConsiderationsIt is essential that wall surfaces adjacent to working areas are 'easy-clean'. Ceramic tiling is probably the easiest and most common solution. Stainless steel sheet is a sound solution if its appearance is acceptable.The joint between worktops and adjacent walls must be watertight. Steel sink tops usually have integral upstands along their back edge but not along the sides. If the sink edge butts onto a wall the best solution is an integral upstand along that edge of the sink: this may be difficult to find although, cost permitting, it should be possible to arrange for one to be added (Try your friendly local Steel Fabricator if the supplier is unable to help - the friendly one might even build a sink for you to suit, exactly, your design need in every respect. The source of these friends is Yellow Pages or pub gossip and the like).Tiled tops can be coved at the edges and the tiling can be continued up the wall. Coving pieces are usually available to match worktops made out of wood products. Metal joining strips are available for use when joining pieces of worktop and their use will ensure that joints are sound.Relationship of Vertical FacesTo take full advantage of the easy clean floor the worktop should overhang the front of the cabinet, and then the cabinet should overhang the front of the plinth, so that anything falling off the worktop falls directly to the floor without making a mess on the front of the cabinets. The Kitchen SinkThe component which perhaps has the greatest influence over the final design is the sink unit. However, once the self-build decision has been taken many of the constraints disappear as the builder is free to choose its precise position in the run.  Draining boards do not affect the nature of the cabinets below them, but space must be provided under the worktop for the sink bowl(s).Decisions have to be made: one or two bowls; the size of the bowl(s); one or two draining boards; the overall size of the sink unit; and whether or not to fit a destructor unit under an outlet (drain hole).Some degree of choice is available regarding the depth of the sink bowl: the advantage of having a deeper than normal sink should be considered provided that it will not conflict with the installation of a waste disposal unit if this is intended. There should not be any problem but the dimensions of disposal units may vary and attention needs to be paid to the vertical dimensions of the disposal unit and the relative positions of the sink outlet and the connection to the drain. An additional item that may be appreciated is a small pump action soap dispenser which can be fitted into the sink unit close to the tap base.  Taps come as separate items.It is best to find a sink specialist by asking friendly plumbers, builders, etc.  It is their business to know in detail just what is available on the market.  They have manufacturers catalogues to refer to, and know all the little wrinkles about disposal units (which need enlarged drain holes in the sink base), soap pumps and the like. .Think five times before selecting one of those pretty little multi-bowl sinks that currently seem so popular, and then think again about large Sunday lunches and defective washing machines.   Once the sink has been selected the remainder of the design can be completed allowing for drawers, cupboards, ovens, hobs or whatever.

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Home Improvement

Bob Veazey

2004-07-01 11:31:00

Question:  I have recently moved to Kansas and for the first time I have a basement with 'escape windows'. What do I need to know about the safety of my basement?

ANSWER:  First lets discuss the window wells or 'escape windows' in general. An egress basement window well's main function is to allow an occupant to escape from the basement during an emergency if the primary stairway and/or ground level exit has become inaccessible. Secondary benefits of having a window well are natural lighting in the basement, and the option of opening the basement window for fresh air. Many people like to decorate inside and around the well or basement window. This also needs to be carefully considered, objects that are decorative can become a hazard or obstacle during an escape effort. Remember not only on the inside of the window but also at ground level function over fashion is always the rule in regards to safety. Never place anything (hoses, plants, yard decorations etc…) on top of the window well covering. Doing so will make the operational escape hatch too heavy for a person inside the well to open. Also, being in Kansas and our very cold, wet winters make sure you check the window wells often to ensure they are not snow covered or frozen shut. Now that you know the basics of the window well covering lets talk about the way to get up to it. Your ladder is the most essential piece of equipment you can have. Make sure when the ladder is mounted; it is in a position that provides an individual with the easiest method of escape. With most that will mean mounting it directly underneath the lock. Be sure that each person in the house is familiar with the system and they are able to unlock the windows and the latch on the window well covering. Designate an area well away from the house as a place for everyone to meet in case a fire or emergency does occur. Practice, Practice, Practice!! It is recommended that everyone is involved in a drill at least once every 4-6 months. Education is priceless in the midst of an emergency! Also, check the functionality of your basement window, ladder and window well cover periodically to make sure that nothing will hinder escape from the basement. Repair or replace any equipment that appears to be damaged or not functioning properly. Basement windows should unlock and open easily. Ladders should be securely anchored to the well wall, and the window well cover should unlock, open, and support itself easily. These checks should be conducted every 3 months. A good way to remember is to perform the check when you replace the air filter for your forced air unit.

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Home Improvement

Jim Price

2004-07-01 10:52:00

Question:  We are thinking of remodeling our kitchen.  What are some things to look for we may not think about?

ANSWER:  The kitchen (arguably in competition with the bathroom) is the most functional room in the house.  There are so many different things to consider.  We will try to cover them all over the next few issues.The first consideration should, therefore, be suitability for the tasks to be performed and not appearance as so often seems to be the case. Time should be spent working out, in detail, the way in which the room and the facilities contained or to be installed in it will be used in the face of the constraints imposed by the locations of entrances and exits, water and drainage, gas, electric, lighting, ventilation, and such like.  Some will be adjustable.  Some may be too difficult or too costly to adjust.  Safety must be a prime consideration, particular attention being given to the activities and antics of children of all ages, the top of the hob and items that might be on it, and to the conflicting uses of space in proximity to exits and entrances.No design decision should be made without careful consideration of its impact on both day-to-day (which really means moment-to-moment) and long-term care and maintenance. Kitchen cleaning is an ongoing and essential task which can be made more bearable by thoughtful design and furnishing.The final arrangement must be generally acceptable to reasonable people so that, in the longer term, potential buyers of the property are not discouraged.Should you buy or build?Except in the ultra-expensive world, buying means acceptance of the currently fashionable modular 'cabinet' system, which is probably the easiest solution but is rarely entirely satisfactory because of the limitations imposed by the building, and because of personal preferences. The cabinets are one part of the deal and the fronts are another. A view, not based on research, and perhaps rather biased, is that there are two or three manufacturers of cabinets, all of similar quality, which are taken up by kitchen retailers who design their own range of fronts and pile on the price to make what profit they can having due regard to the fashion of the moment. A major disadvantage of this modular 'cabinet' system is inadequate drawer capacity; even purpose designed cutlery drawers tending to be too small and, in particular too shallow, for their intended purpose. The resulting concentration on cabinets rather than drawers results in some drawbacks in use.   All of the following are items to be considered:When mom or dad is at home and in the kitchen, children may be more conveniently supervised or educated, or both, while 'helping'.  Ask the willing child to get something out of a cabinet and the result in early years is that, while the child grasps the required item in its hand, it clears the shelf with the elbow it has not yet learned to control.   If mom is pregnant, she will need to avoid the often complicated contortions involved in extracting this and that, including heavy stacks of plates, from the back of the low shelf in the cupboard.  Most older people are not at their best searching for things in the bottom of a cupboard.Consider the changed situation if easy-running drawers are used instead of cabinets: a child can see and extract the required article; both the pregnant mom and grandmother can lift heavy items directly to the worktop without undue stretching and twisting.Building from scratch offers a greater degree of freedom in design and layout, and allows the inclusion of some tricks that may not be done as easily with standard modular cabinetsNext time we will talk about floor considerations.

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Home Improvement

Jim Price

2004-06-01 12:04:00

:  Can you tell me how we would repair large cracks in the foundation around all four corners. We don't know how far under the ground the crack goes. Some are on the top of the ground.

ANSWER:  If you have leaks, the repairs will need to be made on the outside and inside. If the footing has settled, or is cracked in places, it may need to be repaired, too. For these problems you would need to remove the dirt around the house where the cracks are.  Make a V-shaped groove in the crack. Next you would use a two-part concrete epoxy.  You can find it at a concrete speciality store.  It will come with an injector.  Use it to inject the epoxy in the groove you made, every 12 to 16 inches.  Since you have disturbed the barrier that is against the wall of the basement, you will need to re-coat it.  Finally, fill the area half way with sand,then dirt.  Be sure not to pack the soil.  Let it settle naturally. If the wall has moved you will have to go into a lot more work.  You may need to get the help of a qualified contractor who has experience repairing footings and foundations. If your repairs are not done properly, they will not last and you will have wasted your time and materials. For more serious problems, it may be necessary to add pilings. These are done by digging into the dirt outside, make round holes, tying them into your footing and foundation with re-bar, then pouring concrete. For less serious problems, digging down to the footing, adding re-bar, and pouring a secondary footing can help strengthen the existing footing. For cosmetic changes, mixing up concrete and applying to the cracks will cover them.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2004-04-01 08:49:00

(Editor's note:  Mike is on the mend in the hospital.  We all pray for the speediest and fullest of recoveries.  Mike provided the answer to this question a few days before he entered the hospital.)

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2004-03-01 14:01:00

Art Bryan Question:  We don't know where to start for our desired room addition. Should we hire an architect to design our new space?

ANSWER:  Although hiring an architect is an option that you may consider, it probably is not your best option for most room additions. Rather, you might want to consider hiring a Design/Build remodeler who has the experience and capabilities to design and build your project within your stipulated budget, for two main reasons.First, by working directly with a remodeling contractor to design and build your project, you will control your budgeted costs. The contractor knows the costs of construction and will design the plans and specifications within predetermined budgets. This eliminates additional design fees which frequently occur when an outside architect or designer draws a project without knowing the costs to ensure the project can be built within budget. This is one of the most common problems and frustrations many homeowners experience when not having their plans drawn by someone other than the remodeler who builds it.Second, the by-product of the reasons explained is that the design costs will usually be less costly than hiring a third party architect. Also, it should be a more enjoyable experience for you in working with a knowledgeable and experienced contractor who is totally responsible for the design and construction of your remodeling project. You'll be working together from inception to completion as a team with one major goal in mind - designing and building your dream project within your designated budget.

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Home Improvement

Mike and Laurie Classen

2004-03-01 14:01:00

Question: How do the new gutter covers differ from screens, and what advantage do they have over periodic gutter cleanings?

ANSWER:  First of all, it's important to remember why it's vital to the longevity of your home to keep your gutters clean. Clogged gutters don't allow water to flow through the guttering system and away from your home, causing a whole host of possible problems. Flooding of crawl spaces and basements, mold and mildew, damage to foundation and landscaping are just a few. Also, clogged gutters detract from the beauty of your home.Unlike screens or vinyl covers, there are no holds to become clogged with the solid aluminum covers. Screens will eventually have to be removed or replaced making them a temporary fix. The solid gutter covers are a permanent fix to an ongoing maintenance problem…cleaning out the gutters! They are a heavy gauge aluminum that keeps leaves and debris out of the gutters, but allows water to flow into the gutters by utilizing a law of nature called "Surface Tension." They completely cover the gutter like a roof. The solid covers are designed to handle even the heaviest of rainfall.The sturdy material will not break down from debris, ice, snow, or animals. A quality cover will work on any roof pitch from flat to very steep with any type of shingle.Clogged gutters are dangerous and time consuming to clean. Periodic cleanings mean you or someone you've hired will have to climb a ladder and risk falling several times a year to keep your gutter system functioning the way it was designed to. A solid aluminum cover is professionally installed over your existing gutters and means you will never have to clean them again.

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Home Improvement

Mike and Laurie Classen

2004-02-01 09:08:00

Question: Can the new gutter covers that are available now be installed on any size or type of gutter, and how will it affect the looks of my home?

Answer: Most guttering can accept the new gutter covers available now. The 5-inch and 6-inch guttering works the best. Covers can also be placed over the old half-round guttering, however, the installation process is a little more labor intensive with the half-round. The only guttering that cannot be used with the covers is the sectional plastic type. Since the covers are made of aluminum, the plastic gutters simply aren't strong enough on the front edge.A cover that is installed under the first set of shingles will actually add to the appearance of your home. The cover acts as a roof over your gutters and installed properly, has a very low profile and great curb appeal. Clogged gutters cause damage and detract from the beauty of your home, whereas the covers add a finished appearance between the roof and gutters. To better add to the appearance of your home, the color of cover you choose should match your roof color rather than the gutters. This blends with the roof and looks like an extension of the roof to the edge of your gutters.

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Home Improvement

Wess Galyon

2004-01-01 13:00:00

: It's that time of year again... the Home Show.  What's new this year and what will we see at the Show?

Question: It's that time of year again... the Home Show.  What's new this year and what will we see at the Show?Answer: The Wichita Area Builders Association (WABA) kicks off its annual Home Show event on Thursday, February 5, 2003, at Century II Convention Center. Home Show 2004 is the 50th anniversary show, and will feature more than 250 different exhibiting companies offering a wide variety of home products and services for virtually every aspect of a home, from floors to ceilings, interiors and exteriors including outdoor living products, decorating and home improvement options, new construction and remodeling alternatives, and more. Once again a "sell out" event, The Home Show offers one-stop-shopping, in a huge composite showroom. Attendees are welcome to shop as long as they wish, in a pleasant, safe, secure and entertaining environment, leaving with a bag full of educational and product information, which makes difficult decisions about what to do with your home to improve it and your lifestyle easier after the show. Consumers attending the show can compare products and conduct their own research right at the show with the help of knowledgeable representatives, and "without pressure."Today, time is a valuable commodity to everyone and we're all looking for convenience and simplicity. The exciting innovations you will see on display at The 2004 Home Show are a direct response to the way people live and want to live. • Jacuzzi tubs are a staple in new homes; shower areas are separate and offer multi-heads at different levels. Water sensors offer memory, guaranteeing the right temperature every time.• Kitchens are again a big item with wide-open space inviting lots of time spent. Island bars are convenient and serve as social areas, eating space in the kitchen is informal, and many kitchens will have an attached hearth room. Kitchen appliances are disguised in Old World Fashion, reminiscent of simpler times; new technology with an old look. You will see contemporary-clean lines, metals, lightwoods, and the institutional look of stainless steel in appliances and cabinetry. Counter tops are granite, tile, and marble. Flooring will be of natural materials. Large walk-in pantries are convenient hiding places for small appliances, bulk food items, and cleaning supplies.• Dining Rooms, no longer rooms but Dining Areas, offer space. Utility furniture and features, reflecting lifestyle changes, used for separation of rooms to define space without walls• Entertainment areas, formal and informal, provide conversation areas with furniture groupings. Home theatres, media rooms, sound systems, both audio and visual are found throughout the home. Technology has advanced, so the costs for these luxuries have come down. There are also a variety of security systems, some that can be viewed on your television screen.• Volume ceilings increase the feel of greater spaciousness. Window configurations add character with design and shape, as well as being energy efficient and providing natural light. Strategically placed windows integrate exterior with interior. Canned, track, and recessed lighting is used to accent different areas. Floor outlets allow the freedom of not having to 'hug' walls with furniture and lamps creating the desired 'open living' feel. Homeownership in this country is at an all time high at nearly 70%, reflecting certain comfort levels people have with the overall economy. Families are interested in owning a piece of the American dream. Home values continue to rise making homeownership a wise investment for the future, also strengthening the social fabric of the nation by encouraging civic participation, involvement in schools and communities and inspiring the upkeep and improvement of neighborhoods. Homeownership fosters good citizenship.The primary objective of the Wichita Area Builders Association is to work toward providing quality, affordable housing and homeownership opportunities for the greatest number of people possible. The Association strives to promote a better understanding between the industry and the general public in regard to housing issues and acts as a liaison between the building industry and all levels of government whose actions impact efforts to maintain housing affordability. Whether you're considering building, remodeling or redecorating, Home Show 2004 is the place to be. It's the original Home Show and the only show sponsored and offered by the Wichita Area Builders Association.

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Home Improvement

Wess Galyon

2004-01-01 12:02:00

:  How long has the Home Show been in Wichita?

ANSWER:  In 1954, Wichita Area Builders Association, then known as Wichita Homebuilders, introduced The Home Show. That first year, The Home Show assembled in a tent. It moved to The Forum in 1955, and eventually found its home in Century II, as the first exhibit in Expo Hall.The average home price was $17,500 and the average annual salary was $4,700 (minimum wage was 75 cents an hour). Home Show offered attendees a look into the future. Builders were scrambling to accommodate the results of the baby boom. Families were buying homes in subdivisions with quality of life and neighborhood in mind. The family room was coming into prominence; a two-car garage was a luxury.A Home Show 1955 survey of attendees showed, 81% of those surveyed said that year-round air-conditioning was worth an additional $800. Ironically, the survey also indicated that 81% did not have air-conditioning in their current homes. Further, the survey reported that the majority of attendees would be willing to pay $12-$20,000 for a new home that included the modern convenience of air-conditioning.In1959, upscale subdivisions were popping up. Bonnie Brae, built on the site of the former Beech golf club, showcased homes of more than 1,500 sq. ft. in the price range of $22,500 - $50,000. In West Wichita, Westlink Village was under construction offering homes from $15,000 to $40,000. The western portion of the city seemed to be drawing the most new home sites.The 1960's post-war era proved to be the last rapid growth period of new home construction. Ultra modern homes offered gas ranges with a "Burner with a Brain" that adjusted its own flame and offered both "warm" and "simmer" settings. Kitchens were breaking away from the traditional white, adding color and contrast. Homemakers were requesting functional design with eating areas in the kitchen. The toughest times for the home building industry began in the 1970's, as interest rates soared to double digits (17-21%). The level of finance activity dropped, especially affecting housing, which has always been the leading component in economy growth through up and down cycles. Fortunately, the 1980's saw the interest rates coming down. The mortgage market stabilized, creating more confidence in the economy and increasing buying due to pent up demand. February 5th-8th, 2004, Wichita Area Builders Association proudly presents the 50th anniversary of the Home Show at Century II. Founded in 1951, The Wichita Area Builders Association is a not-for-profit tax-exempt professional trade association.  Through the years, the combined efforts of individual members, councils and committees, and the organization as a whole, have unmistakably identified WABA as the watchdog of the building industry within the community. The February issue of The Q&A Times will highlight attractions of Home Show 2004.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2004-01-01 11:40:00

: What is the secret to painting new drywall?

ANSWER: Newly finished wallboard presents two distinctly different surfaces to be coated, the face paper of the wallboard over the untreated area of the wallboard, and the taping compound over the seams, corners, and fasteners, (screws or nails). Paint applied to the face paper and the compound will be absorbed unequally and will exhibit problems such as "joint banding," a phenomenon that makes the paint appear shadowed, or darker, over the areas treated with compound.In the past, some drywall installers have solved the porosity and joint banding problem by applying a skim coat of drywall compound over the entire wall surface.Another method some drywall contractors occasionally use to get around joint banding and also cover up poor workmanship by applying drywall texture, a very loose and powdery mixture that is little more than chalk and water. This creates a problem for the paint application, as paint does not adhere well to powdery chalk.There is a simple, yet important step that can be taken to improve the quality of the texture. To make it less porous and adherent, one must improve its cohesive strength. This can be accomplished with the addition of a latex emulsion (resin) that is used in many latex interior paints as a binding agent. This additive "glues together" or binds the powdery particles tighter, thereby increasing its density, adhesion and cohesion to provide a sounder base for any latex paint.  Normally the emulsion is added to the texture at a ratio of 1 part emulsion to 20 parts of texture (1 quart to 5 gallons).Without this additive, you can expect great difficulties with the adhesion of wall coverings and paints to the drywall surface. Many paint stores and drywall suppliers carry ready mixed Latex Emulsion additives. When cured and dry the reinforced texture is firm and dust free providing a sound surface for your first coat of Latex Primer. Texturing walls is not really recommended for anyone other than professionals.Fortunately because of the improvements in latex paint technology, neither one of the above techniques is necessary.  The most important step in finishing new drywall is to use a high quality latex primer.  Primers seal the surface to minimize paint absorption, and surface texture variations. Note: If you are going to apply a heavy texture to new drywall ceilings you should always prime first with a high quality latex primer to stop the wallboard from absorbing water from the texture resulting in sagging.  Because the primer is bright white, it will also hide any thin spots in the texture.

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Home Improvement

Mike and Laurie Classen

2004-01-01 10:48:00

: How do gutter covers differ from screens, and what advantage do they have over periodic gutter cleanings?

ANSWER:  First, it's important to remember why it's vital to the longevity of your home to keep your gutters clean. Clogged gutters don't allow water to flow through the guttering system and away from your home, causing a whole host of possible problems. Flooding of crawl spaces and basements, mold and mildew, damage to foundation and landscaping are just a few. Also, clogged gutters detract from the beauty of your home.Unlike screens or vinyl covers, there are no hold to become clogged with the solid aluminum covers. Screens will eventually have to be removed or replaced making them a temporary fix. The solid gutter covers are a permanent fix to an ongoing maintenance problem…cleaning out the gutters! They are a heavy gauge aluminum that keeps leaves and debris out of the gutters, but allows water to flow into the gutters by utilizing a law of nature called "Surface Tension." They completely cover the gutter like a roof. The solid covers are designed to handle even the heaviest of rainfall.The sturdy material will not break down from debris, ice, snow, or animals. A quality cover will work on any roof pitch from flat to very steep with any type of shingle.Clogged gutters are dangerous and time consuming to clean. Periodic cleanings mean you, or someone you've hired, will have to climb a ladder and risk falling several times a year to keep your gutter system functioning the way it was designed to. A solid aluminum cover is professionally installed over your existing gutters and means you will never have to clean them again.

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Home Improvement

Ken Weakley

2003-11-01 15:24:00

: I'm remodeling my bathroom to blend with the earth tones in the rest of the house. Unfortunately, I can't do anything about the existing avocado green tub and matching ceramic tile. I'm sure that replacement costs will be more than my budget allows for. How can I best camouflage this dated color?

ANSWER: Imagine the possibilities of choosing a new color for your tub and tile. The task of camouflaging would be eliminated, which would allow you to run with any color scheme you want. Consider resurfacing your existing tub and tile. This finish will give your bathroom a new look without the mess, inconvenience, and cost of replacement.   Most people don't resurface because of a structural problem. They resurface for cosmetic reasons. There are a lot of pink, yellow, peach and avocado green bathrooms that are unsightly simply because of an outdated color scheme. Because your color choices are unlimited, so are your design options. And don't worry about any chipped, cracked, broken or missing tiles, those can be replaced or repaired prior to resurfacing.    Resurfacing is a system, which is a very durable, high tech coating, applied over the existing surfaces without any tear out or replacement to give a new look. Some surfaces that can be resurfaced are ceramic tile, Formica, cultured marble, fiberglass, bathtubs, sinks and cabinets. Additionally, after resurfacing, the grout will be sealed by the new coating, so it will no longer hold dirt, grow mold, or discolor. When resurfacing, the coating will take the shape and texture of the tile and grout creating the look and feel of newly installed tile.   Your cost savings could be substantial. Depending on the extent of the work the average resurfacing job should save you up to 75% of the cost of remodeling. Take a bathtub for example. Call any construction or plumbing company and ask them how much it will cost to replace a bathtub, prices will range from $1700 to $3000 (or more depending on the type of bathtub), also keep in mind that while the bathtub is being replaced there is a good chance that something else will have to come with it, adding to the cost. Assume that you want to replace the tile around the bathtub as well. Your price range will go from $2500 to $3500 (or more depending on the type of bathtub orcost of the tile). With resurfacing, that bathtub will cost less than $300 and if you added the tile the entire cost could be well under $500.   Any improvements to kitchens or bathrooms will return a reasonably higher value to your home giving you a very good return on your investment.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2003-11-01 09:16:00

: What is wallboard made from and what are its unique characteristics?

ANSWER: Very few people have ever heard of "hydrous calcium sulfate." And even fewer are aware that hydrous calcium sulfate - CaSO4.2H2O as chemists know it - is gypsum, the rock that nobody knows.    In addition to being found in the Egyptian pyramids, gypsum rock is referred to in the ancient cuneiform scripts of the Assyrians. Its use was probably developed by the Greeks, whose influence certainly remains in the name by which the rock is known.  They called it Gypsos, the source of our word "gypsum."    Gypsum is a rock that, like limestone, occurs naturally in many parts of the world, and like limestone, in an absolutely pure form it is white. However, the usual presence of darker impurities produces rock in varying shades of gray, brown, and even black. Since it normally is found close to the surface, gypsum can be mined or quarried easily.    The biggest part of the gypsum rock used in this country goes into wallboard for homes. Gypsum "boards" are formed by sandwiching a core of wet plaster between two sheets of heavy paper. When the core sets and is dried, the sandwich becomes a strong, rigid, fire-resistant building material. Fire-resistant because in its natural state, gypsum contains water, and when exposed to heat or flame, this water is released as steam, retarding heat transfer. Manufactured in unbelievable quantities on continuous machines almost a quarter mile in length, gypsum wallboard and lath, pre-finished wallboard, and gypsum sheathing for use under exterior finishes are among the most important materials used in housing. Here are a few other ways in which gypsum is seen during an average day.    First of all, there is toothpaste. Gypsum forms the basis for some of the well-known brands of toothpaste, and thereby helps to pay the salary of some of television's best-known entertainers.   Most of the fixtures in bathrooms are made of clay formed in a mold of gypsum plaster, and chances are that gypsum board is behind the wall tile.    At the breakfast table, dishes were shaped on

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2003-11-01 08:54:00

:  What is 'laminated' glass as opposed to 'tempered' glass in windows and doors?  Are they both just as good?  Why is blocking out UV rays important?

ANSWER: No.  Lamina-ted glass is what you want when it comes to storm doors and replacement windows, as opposed to standard or tempered glass.  It takes only one blow to shatter standard or tempered glass.  Standard glass breaks easily as we all know. Tempered glass breaks easily if you know how (and most burglars do!). A hard hit or a sharp hit with a pointed object is all that is needed. A spark plug swung on a string will allow a burglar to walk upright through a patio door in 15 seconds.  Laminated glass is two pieces of glass sandwiched together with a special plastic inner layer, that glues the glass together, stops vibrations, blocks UV light and prevents the glass from breaking into many pieces when it is broken. When it does break, it stays together - like you car's front windshield, which is also laminated glass.   Laminated glass offers excellent break-in protection.  Breaking through laminated glass requires time, effort and noise. As stated earlier, laminated glass does not shatter when broken. It tends to remain intact, protecting interiors from flying glass, flying projectiles, and other damage. Penetrating through laminated glass requires more than just a golf ball, baseball or brick. Laminated glass even withstands minor explosions. It is the major component for most bulletproof glass. It is now being used to pass the stricter building codes developed in coastal areas for hurricanes and used elsewhere for other severe weather phenomena such as tornadoes and earthquakes.   Ultraviolet light causes sunburn, color fading and deterioration of natural and synthetic materials. Museums always use laminated glass to provide color fade protection. Most furniture stores do, too. The inner layer of plastic used in the best laminated glass blocks 99.9% of all the UV light from passing through. On the other hand, standard glass (used in almost all commercial and residential applications) blocks very little UV light. Even the newer "low E" glass cannot compete with the UV protection of laminated glass. Some people buy windows not for sound, but for the UV protection. It is a benefit that may or may not be important to you.  You would not want to have laminated glass in an area of the home that has plants as they need UV rays.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2003-10-01 11:23:00

: I have to cut about 20 sheets of drywall to fill in areas I have cut out throughout my home remodeling project. Do you have any tricks?

ANSWER: I can share some tips for cutting drywall with you, but I must say that accurate measurements rule! However, accurate does not mean making each piece fit tightly.  You can ruin a piece by trying to squeeze it into a tight fit.  About a quarter inch short on each measurement usually works well.  Usually if a piece does not easily fall into place, you can smooth the edges with the back of your knife blade or a rasp.  Cutting drywall is not too difficult if you know how to measure and use some patience.   Use full sheets of drywall whenever possible, trying to eliminate any butt joints that do not have tapered edges.  Tapered edges make finishing much easier and improve the quality of your job.  Cut the length of the sheet so that the end falls in the center of a joist or stud (bottom and top).   To cut a sheet for length, first set it upright with the finish side out. Measure out the length with a tape measure. Then using a drywall T-square on that mark as a guide, score the front side with a utility knife.  Make sure the T-square does not move while you're cutting!   Snap the drywall back. It should break apart right at the cut. That doesn't cut the paper on back, though, so to finish the cut run the knife blade down the back side to cut the waste free.   Making cuts along the length of a sheet is a little trickier. One way is to snap a chalk line along the sheet and then score the line by hand. Be aware, though, that sometimes the chalk will bleed through the paint. If you have an 8' straight edge that would work, too.   Another way to make this kind of cut is with a tape measure. Hold the tape measure in your left hand with your thumb and fore finger at the dimension you want. Hold the blade of your utility knife under the end of the tape, holding it against the hook. Now run your left hand across the top of the board, and score the drywall with the knife. This is not a super-accurate method, but it's good enough for hanging drywall.   When you need to cut inside corners, you can't snap both ways so cut one side with a drywall saw. Then score the other side with a utility knife and snap it back like you would any other cut.   Another way to cut inside corners is to first install the piece, then cut it with a drywall saw along the framing.   Cutting holes in drywall for lights, switches and outlets requires careful measuring and marking.   For round light fixtures, like recessed lights, measure from the edge of where the drywall sheet will go to the center of the circle. Do this from both the sides and top. Then transfer these measurements to the sheet of drywall. Use this mark for the center of your circle hole cutter. Also, measure the radius of the round fixture to set the arm length of the cutter. Score the circle several times, then tap it out with a hammer.  You can also use a compass to draw the circle and a keyhole saw to make the cut.   For switch and outlet boxes, measure from the side edge of where the sheet will go to the right and left side of the box. Then measure from the top edge to the top and bottom of the box. Transfer these to the sheet of drywall and cut it with a keyhole saw.   A relatively new device that works well with drywall is a Spiral saw.  This device works like a mini router with a spiral cutting blade that looks like a drill bit only it is made to cut with its edges.  RotoZip is one brand, but several other tool companies make a similar tool.   The Spiral saw makes cutting around electrical boxes a breeze.  You can partially hang the piece (not too many nails or screws yet.)  Locate the box by measuring from two sides.  Then carefully find the edge of the box and relocate the bit to the outside.  Then cut around the box using the box as your guide.  The drywall will then slip past the box and is ready for the rest of the nails or screws. Don't do this to boxes with live electrical wires inside!  You can also install a piece right over a window or doorway and then user the Spiral saw to remove the part that is blocking the opening, using the studs and headers for a guide.   All this might seem confusing and difficult at first but a little bit of careful practice will have you installing drywall like a pro.

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Home Improvement

Ken Weakley

2003-10-01 09:00:00

: I've just added a new whirlpool tub to my bathroom. Is there anything special I need to know about cleaning and maintaining it?

ANSWER: There are some special services that you can provide to your new tub to ensure its appearance and functionality. For appearance and general cleaning of the high gloss acrylic surface on bathtubs, whirlpools, and shower bases, use a mixture of warm water and a mild liquid dishwashing detergent or granular Spic and Span mixed with water. Do not use undiluted, strong detergents formulated for use on tile or porcelain enamel surfaces, or abrasive cleaning products.   For general cleaning of china or enameled steel appliances, use Tilex bathroom cleaner or hot soapy water and liquid dishwashing detergents. Again, do not use abrasive products. Make sure to apply all cleaning products with a soft cloth or sponge. To clean the slip resistant surface on bathtubs and whirlpools, sprinkle Bon Ami, Spic and Span, DiDi Seven or Zud onto a wet sponge. Apply to the surface, and rinse with water.   While you're at it, for general cleaning of your fittings (faucets) use mild soapy water and anti-bacterial soap. For the removal of mineral deposits use Tilex bathroom cleaner. When cleaning your toilet seat, wash it only with mild, soapy water; rinse the seat thoroughly with clear water; and dry with a soft cloth. Avoid detergents, disinfectants, or cleaning products in aerosol cans. Never use abrasive scouring powders on your seat. Some bathroom chemicals and cosmetics may damage your seat's finish.     To maintain your whirlpool system, once every three months, purge and clean the circulating system. Follow these simple steps: fill whirlpool with warm water and add two teaspoons of powdered dishwasher (not laundry) detergent and one half cup of household bleach to filled whirlpool. Activate whirlpool system in accordance with operating instructions for two minutes. Drain and refill whirlpool with cold water. Circulate for five minutes. Drain whirlpool completely when finished.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2003-09-01 15:42:00

:  We have an older home and have decided that we would rather update and remodel than build new, especially with the interest rates on the way back up.  We would like to start with the exterior of our home.  What are our options?  

ANSWER: Many people begin here. Real estate agents will tell you, other than LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION as the main element of increasing the value of your home, CURB APPEAL stands alone in second place.   Last year over 44 million remodeling projects were completed in the U.S. according to the National Association of the Remodeling Industry, http://www.nari.org/. Almost 30 percent of these were exterior improvements.      Below are some of the top choices to consider when updating the exterior of your home. All of them are solid choices and offer you excellent durability and beauty. Maybe the best part is that they can fit into just about any budget.  Always remember that quality is the key to improving your home. As important as the material selection is, the products are only as good as the people installing them. Take the time to select the best possible contractors to do the work.VINYL SIDING   While there will always be a debate about what kind of siding to install, more than 40 million squares of vinyl siding were installed in the U.S. last year. So of the two, it's the champ.  Vinyl siding has come a long way. The color goes all the way through the material so fading is a thing of the past. And cleaning your home is a snap - literally you can clean the siding with a garden hose and spray nozzle.   Vinyl siding is installed and sold by the square (a 10' x 10' area equals a square). The average cost to re-side your home with vinyl nationally is about $325 a square. Of course, the prices can vary depending on the number of windows and doors, as well as the size of your home.   One other tip - I am not a fan of re-siding over your existing siding. It's not the right way to complete the job. In many cases when this is done, the windows and trim become recessed on the plane of the walls and the home will look incomplete. Invest a little more money to have the old siding removed.  This will not only ensure a better job but will allow you the opportunity to install additional insulation and a building wrap that can help reduce your energy costs. WOOD SIDING   The look of real wood is something that is always attempted but rarely duplicated. Real wood siding offers natural beauty and a tactile feel to a home. Cedar siding is one of the most popular choices.  You can finish your wood siding many different ways to achieve a custom look.  One way is with a natural finish with a clear preservative over the top. But semi-transparent or even solid-colored stains can also look great. Also keep in mind that wood is a natural renewable resource. So while it grows, it helps the environment as well.     The average cost to install cedar siding nationally is about $475 a square. With wood siding, many different grades can be purchased - clear, which has no knots and offers a smooth finish; #2, and #1 grades. The lower the number, the more character the wood will have. Also, wood siding offers you endless design possibilities from siding options to trim on windows and decorative elements as well. FIBER CEMENT SIDING   Fiber-cement siding offers some of the maintenance-free qualities of vinyl, and the look of painted wood siding.  Who would have thought that one day we would use concrete for exterior siding? The material has actually been around for over 20 years. Fiber-cement siding offers some of the maintenance-free qualities of vinyl, and the look of painted wood siding. The product expands and contracts minimally, it will not rot or warp, and insects do not like how it tastes. It is also very well regarded by firefighters around the country since it won't engulf in flames.   The siding can be pre-painted from the factory and when ordered this way the finish carries a 15-year warranty. The average cost to re-side a home in the U.S. is about $475 per square. SYNTHETIC STUCCO   Probably one of the most versatile inventions to hit the exterior home market, this product was known as Environmental Insulated Finishing Systems or EIFS, but basically it's a souped-up version of cement stucco. One advantage it has is that it can flex with your home and stay intact as your home moves.  The material can be shaped, colored and textured to just about any finish. EIFS also offers the highest wall insulation R-value of any exterior wall cladding.  When properly installed by a qualified contractor this material is almost impervious to the elements. There is even a hybrid combination of synthetic and cement stucco. The average cost to install is about $450-$550 a square. Of course, the size of your home can effect the pricing, as with all of the choices. BRICK   That third little pig had the right idea. Brick offers a strong exterior finish. Unlike the other choices, brick is rarely an option when building a new home. But it's a good one to consider. Brick offers a classic solid look to a home. The color choices and sizes of bricks available are almost endless. There are two types of brick construction - solid masonry construction, where the brick actually holds up the structure of the home; and face brick, which is basically a brick wall built in front of a framed wall.  Face brick really gives you the best of both worlds, the durability and beauty of brick, with all of the insulation qualities of a framed wall. Brick is quoted on a per square foot calculation. So the average cost is between $6-$12 per square foot.

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Home Improvement

Ken Weakley

2003-09-01 15:42:00

: What on earth is Bathroom Furniture? 

ANSWER:  Bathroom sinks are often set in pieces of furniture bought especially for the purpose. Customers search for a furniture piece to serve as the unusual vanity. It might be an old dresser found at a garage sale and refinished or an expensive reproduction; people want their bathroom to be unique. The concept of having the sink sunk into a hole cut in a French bombe chest or a rustic Mexican oak dresser is a far cry from the bathroom run-of-the-mill oak cabinets that could be interchangeable with kitchen cabinetry.   The old-fashioned claw foot tub is still loved by many and in demand by those restoring an older home. You don't have to search junk shops and flea markets to have one of these tubs. But, "new/made to look old" style tubs can be costly.   Ceilings are likely to be high with recessed lighting or skylights. Floor to ceiling cupboards hold towels, clothes and jewelry. Ceramic tile, both in flooring and countertops are making a comeback. If you're not happy with the existing color of your tub and sink, it can be easily resurfaced to match the colors of your new design.     There's no question that good bathrooms help sell a home. If you're considering remodeling just to sell it and turn a profit, real estate agents advise you not to do so.  You're investing in your own taste that may not be the same as a buyer's, but don't be afraid to have some fun decorating, even if you are looking at resell value. When the time comes to sell, have faith you'll find a buyer who loves pebble-look floor, blue jetted tub with grab bars, or the walls, faux-painted to look like marble. Enjoy your remodel, and when guests visit your bathrooms, they'll have something to talk about.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2003-09-01 15:42:00

:  I have a blown ceiling in my home. Obviously the former owner was a smoker because certain areas are yellowed and I can't get the smell out of the room (which I assume is due to the ceiling). Is there any way around having the ceiling repainted? Isn't there some way it can be cleaned?  

ANSWER:  Sorry, I cannot think of any way to clean stained blown ceilings.  If your problem were dirt or even soot, a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush would get about 80 % of the dirt off, leaving a shadowy remnant.  However the yellow areas are stained and the only answer is to repaint the ceiling.   Some primers/paints are particularly good for covering stained ceilings (most regular paints will not).  Zinser 123 is a water base paint that will cover well and has very little odor of its own.   Killz is an oil base paint that has a lingering odor of its own which should go away when completely cured (about a week).   Neither of the above products will kill the smoke odor you describe.  To cover the stain and kill the odor you need a shellac based product such as Bin Primer Sealer.  It will kill the smoke odor but has an odor of its own which will go away in about a week.   I assume that you have replaced or thoroughly cleaned the walls and floor to eliminate those areas as a source for the odor.   Sorry that I couldn't give you the answer you were looking for but a freshly painted ceiling will brighten the whole room and is probably worth the effort.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2003-08-01 11:28:00

: How is lumber graded? 

ANSWER: Lumber is graded in one of two classes, softwood construction lumber and hardwoods.  It's a bit technical but I will give it my best shot. Softwood Construction Lumber   Most softwoods (though certainly not all) that are made into finished boards are intended to be construction lumber.  This material is generally sold according to it's "nominal" dimension, typically 1-by something or 2-by something.  Minimum thickness for planed, dry 1-by material is 3/4"; dry means average moisture content of 12%, maximum of 15%.  Minimum thickness for 2 by material (planed and dry) is 1-1/2".  For wet or "green" lumber (this includes formerly dry material that has been allowed to take up water and has not re-dried) minimum surfaced thickness is 25/32" and 1-9/16" for 1-by and 2-by material, respectively.  For widths, the rules are the same for both 1-by and 2-by material.  For widths up through 7 inches, the minimum dry, planed width is 1/2" less than the nominal dimension.  So, dry 1x6 and 2x6 material should both be 5-1/2" wide.  For widths of 8" and above, the width should be 3/4" less than the stated dimension (e.g., 1x10 should be 9-1/4" wide).   Grading softwoods is complex (though not as bad as hardwoods) and it depends on the use (boards versus structural lumber), and the type and distribution of defects (tight knots, loose knots, spike knots, wane, shake, etc.).  There are several different grading authorities, but the board grades most common in the U.S. are (in decreasing order of "quality") finish or select, #1 (common), #2 (common), #3 (common), and #4 (common).  Structural lumber generally uses different terminology including such things as #1, #2, and #3 structural, superior, stud, utility, and several others.  Ask your lumber dealer to explain the system by which their lumber is graded; there is a lot of variation from dealer to dealer.  The "Encyclopedia of Wood" has pictures of the board grades; Hoadley's book may also, I don't recall.Hardwoods   Standard thicknesses for hardwood lumber are as follows (in inches):

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Home Improvement

Ken Weakley

2003-08-01 11:28:00

:  How do I shop for ceramic tile?

ANSWER: Selecting the proper type of ceramic tile for your project is probably the most important installation decision you will make, except of course the choice of an experienced installer. Here are some tips to help you in your purchase:Ask for consistently sized tiles. Ceramic tile is fired in a kiln and then cooled at varying degrees of temperature and humidity. This expansion and contraction can cause the tiles to vary in size, sometimes by a 1/4" or more. Most ceramic tiles on the market will have some variation in size, but accept nothing more than a 1/8" margin of difference.Make sure the ceramic tile you purchase is of the same 'Lot #' and 'Shade #'. This will ensure that your flooring was made in the same batch.Select a ceramic tile that is relatively smooth and has straight, flush edges. This will make the grouting job less difficult.Choose 8x8" or smaller sized tiles on walls and countertops. For floors use 14”x14" or smaller tiles.Ceramic tiles with bright reflective surfaces (bright glaze finish) are not recommended for floors as they can pose a slip hazard and have poor abrasive resistance.PEI RatingsAlthough there are no industry standards, most ceramic tile is rated for use by the Porcelain Enamel Institute (PEI) abrasion test and is recommended by the American Society of Testing Materials (ASTM). PEI ratings measure the wear resistance of the tile surface. Look for these classifications:Class 1 -No Foot Traffic: Ceramic tile suggested for interior residential and commercial wall applications only.Class 2 -Light Traffic: Ceramic tile suggested for interior residential and commercial wall applications and for residential bathroom floor applications only.Class 3 -Light to Moderate Traffic: Ceramic tile suggested for residential floor, countertop, and wall applications.Class 4 -Moderate to Heavy Traffic: Ceramic tile suggested for residential, medium commercial and light institutional floor and wall applications.Class 4+ -Heavy to Extra Heavy Traffic: Ceramic tile suggested for residential, commercial and institutional floor and wall applications subjected to heavy to extra heavy traffic.Acceptable Outdoor Tile TypesVitrified: Ceramic tiles having an absorption rating of 0.5 - 3%.Impervious (Porcelain): Ceramic tiles having an absorption rating of 0.0 - 0.5%.If price is a factor in your decision to purchase ceramic tile, contact your local tile wholesaler/distributor. Nearly all will have deals on discontinued and overstocked ceramic tiles and unlike your local home improvement store they can answer detailed questions regarding your tile project.Tile Grout SelectionThe color of your tile grout can make or break the look of a finished project. Here are some tips to aid you in your selection:Avoid choosing black, green, or red colored grout mortars. They are notoriously difficult to clean from ceramic tile and baseboards. Choose unsanded grout mortar for grout joints 1/8" or smaller.Choose sanded grout mortar for grout joints larger than 1/8".Avoid choosing white grout for use in moderately wet areas. Choose instead gray or light brown colored grout. Besides being hard to keep clean, white grout tends to yellow or discolor over time.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2003-08-01 11:02:00

: How does one go about painting kitchen cabinets? 

ANSWER: Painting instead of replacing kitchen cabinets can sometimes make a lot of difference for a lot less expense.  A fresh coat of paint can do wonders for your kitchen and your spirits. First you will need the following materials and tools:    Primer- Our first choice for a truly trouble free finish is a white pigmented primer. There are a couple of brands that are water based latex primers that have outstanding adhesion properties. For your finish paint, you can use a solvent base enamel in gloss, semi-gloss or satin finish or a latex based enamel - the higher the gloss, the tougher the finish. Latex enamels are not as durable as the solvent based paints but they have less odor and cleanup is easy using water only.    You will also need the following: miscellaneous sandpaper in 120 and 150 grits, rags, cleaner such as TSP, a small can of spackle, caulk for cracks, masking tape and newspaper, a tack rag, a small can of lacquer thinner for stubborn stains, mineral spirits for final cleanup, a 2"-3" paint brush for "cutting in", and a 6" roller frame with a short nap roller cover and a roller pan.      To prepare the cabinets for painting... remove the door and drawer handles and mask off or remove the hinges. If they are rusty or nasty looking you can paint them with the same materials or refinish using a spray can of enamel.    Cover the countertops and floor under the cabinets with newspaper. Clean using a strong solution of TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate) and rinse well. Allow to dry thoroughly before priming. Lightly sand the surface using 120 grit sandpaper and remove sanding dust by wiping with a tack rag.    Once you're ready to apply your primer, do so in an even thin coat. In this case, more is not better. You are going for a nice even coat and should not be concerned about trying to cover the old color or surface.   For large areas use a 1/4" nap mohair roller.  It leaves a very small orange peel stipple that looks good and helps to hide blemishes. Do all of your brush or "cut-in" work first.    Allow to dry overnight and sand lightly using 150 grit sandpaper. Apply at least one coat of finish enamel... but two coats are recommended. Once fully cured and dry, remove your masking tape, reinstall hinges and pulls and cleanup any spills or splatters using mineral spirits.    Never clean your painted surfaces with abrasive cleaners such as scouring powder. Use products like Soft Scrub as they will not dull the painted surface. Safety should always be first.  Always remember to provide plenty of ventilation, avoid open flames such as pilot lights, no smoking, and protect your skin and eyes from spills and splatters. A light application of hand cream to your exposed skin areas makes for easy cleanup and good protection.

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Home Improvement

Ken Weakley

2003-07-01 16:09:00

: Is it true that remodeling my bathroom will increase the value of my home?

ANSWER: With home values in most markets appreciating at a steady rate and stock values swinging wildly, it's no wonder many Americans are looking to real estate as a safe haven for their money. Naturally, many buyers and sellers want to increase the return on their real estate nest egg through remodeling projects. Call it this decade's version of a retirement savings program.     In many homes, the bathroom doubles as a sanctuary. Or it can, if homeowners are willing to spend enough. One has to decide if you want the room of your dreams or one that'll pay back your investment.  As it turns out, homeowners can have both. Measured as a national average, the midrange price of turning a worn-out bathroom into new space is approximately $9,700. That recoups about $8,500, or 88 percent. The "room of your dreams"-a bathroom with all the trimmings-runs approximately $22,600 but recoups 91 percent of cost, or $20,600.    The trend toward the bathroom as an oasis continues. Designers say that soaker tubs and spa showers are replacing the water-guzzling Jacuzzi tub in bathroom renovations. Features include mini-waterfalls, in-unit steam, built-in sound systems and TVs, storage niches for bath products, seating, and, of course, multiple showerheads with separate controls. Luxury in baths can be balanced with highly practical options. With creative planning, you can add inexpensive renovations such as bathroom vanities featuring concealed electrical outlets for blow dryers and shavers and warming drawers for towels.   Upgrading your fixtures is a great place to start. If you are involved in a renovation and trying desperately to match everything, don't. Remember that when purchasing new fixtures, you are purchasing a variety of products that are made from different materials. There is no way to ensure that colors will match.    "Never come between a tired woman and her bath."    Showers are practical if you are in a hurry, but for some people, there is nothing in the world like a soak in the bathtub! That sea-foam green, cast-iron tub may be an eyesore today, but with a minor facelift, there's no better soaking! Not only are the traditional tubs deep, but also hold the heat of the water longer. New techniques in refinishing or resurfacing existing fixtures are an inexpensive method to changing the face of your bathroom, usually saving 60-70% over replacement cost. These 'no mess no fuss' methods are a one-day process and most offer a 10-year warranty. A variety of colors are available, and existing ceramic tile can be resurfaced (painted) to match. The money you save can be spent on accents or enhancements to your color scheme, such as wallpaper borders, window treatments, accessories, artwork, and flooring.       As we look at bathroom trends at the start of the 21st century, it becomes apparent that neutral and safe are 'out' and dramatic and colorful are 'in.'

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2003-07-01 16:09:00

: How does one go about planning for a deck? 

ANSWER: (See part 1 in June ‘03 issue) Here are some more considerations when planning for a deck.What type of privacy, if any, do you require? Privacy is an important consideration with some deck designs. You may want to include a hot tub on the deck or have the deck built against an aboveground pool, so privacy in the visual sense is an obvious issue. However, privacy from noise is another thing often overlooked. Some houses are close to highways or busy streets, others have noisy neighbors and some of us can be noisy ourselves. By incorporating fences or privacy-screens into your deck, you can reduce the amount of noise and produce a higher degree of privacy from your surrounding areas.    What will the view from your deck be like? Will you want to emphasize or mask any particular areas? The design of your deck is greatly influenced by the answers to these questions. A multi-level deck may provide you with a better way to take advantage of the scenic views your property offers, while the use of fencing or privacy-screens may help disguise unsightly areas when viewed from your deck. The proper positioning of stairs and landings is also influenced by the features that surround your deck.    What safety considerations do you need to take into account? While all decks professionally built by a contractor will be to code, which means very strict guidelines are followed about the structural integrity and overall safety of your deck (handrails, for example, must be spaced no further than 4" apart, to prevent small children or pets from ever falling through), there may be other considerations you have. If you have very young children or small pets, we suggest that you consider adding extra elements to your deck design, such as safety gates. You may also want to prevent your children from playing under your deck if it is rather low-lying, so skirting with or without trapdoors might be a smart solution.    What types of access do you require to your deck? Depending on the layout of your house, your design may need some "tweaking" to allow for the most functionality. Think of what doorways will provide access to the deck, and how stairs would be best positioned to allow for smooth traffic flow from doorways to multi-levels.    What is the condition of the terrain or foundation that the deck will be built upon? Creating a stable foundation is imperative to the construction of a deck. If your deck is going to be built over a poured concrete foundation, a variety of footing applications can be used to stabilize the deck. If instead, holes have to be dug and concrete poured to hold the support posts, the ground content and pitch of the yard to create a stable foundation needs to be carefully assessed. If your yard has a large pitch to it, then more post-holes and posts will need to be used for support. The taller the support posts need to be, the deeper AND wider the holes need to be to allow for more concrete. Sometimes, retaining walls have to be added to help stabilize a foundation, consisting of stacked 6 x 6s nailed together with railroad ties. This factor greatly influences the overall labor costs and material costs involved.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2003-07-01 13:54:00

: We have an older home. The sheetrock in our upstairs bedrooms has water damage around the windows. We have tried re-painting and wall papering, but it doesn't look right. We no longer have problems with the windows as they have been replaced. While we are not excited about the prospect of re-sheetrocking all three bedrooms, it appears to be only answer. Are there any other options? If we have to re-sheetrock, is this a project we can handle ourselves or would we be better off contracting someone else to do it? What would we need in equipment and what would be the process?  

Mike Goebel    Question: We have an older home. The sheetrock in our upstairs bedrooms has water damage around the windows. We have tried re-painting and wall papering, but it doesn't look right. We no longer have problems with the windows as they have been replaced. While we are not excited about the prospect of re-sheetrocking all three bedrooms, it appears to be only answer. Are there any other options? If we have to re-sheetrock, is this a project we can handle ourselves or would we be better off contracting someone else to do it? What would we need in equipment and what would be the process?   Answer:  My first concern would be to eliminate the cause of the problem and perhaps you have done that by replacing the windows.  The problem could have been leakage and/or condensation.If the drywall has mold on it, the mold must be killed with a solution of Chlorine bleach and water.  An ounce or two of bleach per gallon of water should kill the mold.  Be careful not to saturate the paper surface of the drywall with too much water.   If the only remaining problem is water stain, perhaps you need to coat the entire area with a stain proof primer such as Killz or Zinsser which will prevent the stain from bleeding through.   If the drywall is physically damaged, you might try a new product from Zinsser called Gardz which will restore the integrity of the drywall itself.If the drywall has deteriorated too much for the above products to correct, the only way I know to fix the problem would be to remove and replace the drywall back to at least one stud away from the window.  When you have the wall open it would give you an opportunity to look for poor insulation, wood rot or even termite damage.   Once you are convinced that the cause of the problem has been eliminated, replacing the drywall should make everything as good as new.   Replacing the drywall is not too difficult but mudding and taping the joints will require attention to detail and a lot of patience.  The first step is to cut the drywall to size and nail or screw to the studs.  Next the paper tape is completely covered both sides with joint compound and placed over the joints in the drywall and smoothed with a drywall knife.  After the joint compound dries it is sanded and coated with another layer of drywall compound making the joint wider each time. Three or more coats may be required because you will be butting new drywall against old drywall which may not have a tapered edge.  A professional would make this process look easy but if you are willing to stay at it long enough you can achieve good results.  You may want to get a bid from a handyman and then decide how much effort you are willing to put into the project.   The only tools needed would be a hammer, a variable speed drill with phillips head bits, some 1 5/8" drywall screws or nails, a utility knife, a 6" drywall knife, a 12" drywall knife, and fine or medium sand paper.  Some improvements on sandpaper would be sanding screen or sanding sponges.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2003-07-01 13:54:00

:  We have a medium sized kitchen with a breakfast nook.   Lately we have thought about adding an island in the center of the kitchen.  We put an unused table in the center of the kitchen just to see if there was enough room.  The table works nicely, but does not have the look we are wanting.  What is the best way to add an island to a preexisting kitchen?  Should we purchase one already made or have one built in the same look as the rest of the kitchen?  How difficult is it to provide power to an island?    

Mike Goebel    Question:  We have a medium sized kitchen with a breakfast nook.   Lately we have thought about adding an island in the center of the kitchen.  We put an unused table in the center of the kitchen just to see if there was enough room.  The table works nicely, but does not have the look we are wanting.  What is the best way to add an island to a preexisting kitchen?  Should we purchase one already made or have one built in the same look as the rest of the kitchen?  How difficult is it to provide power to an island?     Answer:  An island counter is a nice addition to any kitchen. I like your idea of using the table for a temporary island.  You not only determined the size you want, but have probably confirmed that you really want an island and have some ideas about what you wish it had.While there are no cut and dried answers to your questions, there are some things that should be considered.   · If you have the required skills building your own island would not only be less expensive but it would allow you to make it exactly the size you want or need.   · Buying pre-finished cabinets built specifically for that purpose should not be too difficult for the do-it-yourselfer.  The caveat here is to find the style and color that matches or at least looks good with your existing cabinets.   · If you hire a professional cabinet maker or remodeler to do the work for you, the cost might well reverse, making the pre-finished cabinet less expensive.   · One consideration would be to make the island movable.  An island with rollers on the bottom can be used as an extension of your existing cabinet top when desired or simply pushed out of your way when cleaning etc.   · Providing electrical power to an island is usually a simple project especially if the ceiling below is open.  Be sure to check the electrical code to determine the required specifications for kitchen outlets.  Of course if you make the island movable, the electrical outlet would not be recommended.   · Although I have not answered all your questions directly, I hope I gave you some useful information to think about.  If you are going to hire someone to do the work, you might want to design the project together.  If you're going to do the job yourself. visit with the people at the project center in your favorite home center.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2003-07-01 13:54:00

Question: My wife and I have fallen in love with stucco houses.  We thought about building one, but before we did… we wondered if it is possible to remodel our existing home having the exterior finished in stucco.  Our present home is perfect and we love all the mature trees which we most probably would not have were we to build new.  Would re-doing the exterior in stucco be too expensive?  How long would it take?  Can it even be done?

Answer:  The answer your last question is yes, you can put stucco on an existing home.  Now let me go into a little more detail for you.The first step would be to remove your existing siding.  One of the most important things to do at this time is to check the existing boxing, and door and window trims on your home.  All wood should be checked carefully for any rot or moisture.   Any damaged wood should be replaced.  This is the perfect time to consider replacing any windows or doors that are not energy efficient.  In today's marketplace your design choices for window and door systems are unlimited.  Once the stucco has been installed, the time and cost to do any replacements will be  greatly increased.  Stucco is made from Portland cement, sand, lime and water.  Because stucco can be tricky to apply, and preparing a frame house for stucco installation can be time consuming and labor intensive - consider hiring a professional contractor.  This is not a do it yourself job.  The estimated time for this project depends not only on the weather, but also on the size and design of your home. The cost of stucco is approximately $10.50 to $11.50 per square foot.Most contractors will take care and choose an overcast day.  Excessive heat can dry the stucco prematurely, which causes shrinking and cracking.  Conversely, cool temperatures make the stucco too stiff for troweling.  The ideal temperature for installing stucco is between 50 - 80 degrees Fahrenheit.On a wood framed a home the first step is to install a vapor barrier.  There are a wide range of products available for this purpose, but this is definitely not an area to 'scrimp' on.  This is one of the most important steps taken to protect your home from moisture. Then a  base strip, on which to attach a steel mesh, will need to be nailed on to the home.  Once the steel mesh is attached to the house the three steps for applying stucco can begin.The first layer, known as the scratch coat, is put on with enough pressure to set the mix into the weave of the steel mesh, approximately 3/8 inch thick.  This surface is then scratched before it hardens.  The second coat, the brown coat, should also be about 3/8 inch thick.  Its purpose is to furnish a uniformly smooth finished plane and provide uniform plaster suction over the entire surface.  After the second coat has moisture cured, at least 48 hours, the third and final layer can be applied.  In most cases this layer of stucco is only 1/8 inch to ¼ inch thick; it is also referred to as the finish coat, topcoat or color coat.  There are several finishes that can be produced on this coat.   Allow from 10 days to 3 weeks for the completion of this project.Another product you might consider is called Drive-It.  This product was developed in the 70s and has become a very popular alternative to stucco.  It offers more flexibility and is a far superior product.The beginning process is much the same as stucco.  On an existing frame home, the  siding must be removed and a vapor barrier installed.  One of the most popular is a product called Vy-Tek.  Once the vapor barrier is in place an insulation board is installed.  This insulates the entire wall surface, enhancing the energy efficiency of the wall as well as making your home noticeably quieter.  Expanded  polystyrene (EPS) boards wrap the exterior and adds an R-value of 4.17 per inch over the entire wall.The insulation board is a styrofoam system that can be custom formed for unique wall designs, and details such as moldings, arches and revels, that are costly or impossible with other claddings.A base coat with a continuous layer of fiberglass reinforcing mesh is then applied over the insulation board.  There are different weights of mesh to provide the impact resistance which best suits the application.  Base coats are designed to adhere in the most demanding conditions.  Allow the base coat to dry hard (normally 8 - 10 hours) before proceeding to the finish coat.The finish coat is then applied.  With a wide range of standard colors and the ability to match non-standard colors, your color options are unlimited.  The color is incorporated into the finish coat to ensure long-term color retention and provide the highest level of dirt and mildew-resistance. Whether you want an exotic stone-like appearance or need a traditional stucco look, there are finish products available to suit the project.The cost is approximately $9.50 to $10.50 per square foot, and can be installed in about half the time as stucco.The versatility of this product is unlimited.  You will find little to compare it to in the areas of aesthetics, flexibility of design, insulation value, noise reduction, color selection, and time and economy of construction.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2003-07-01 10:56:00

: How much does it cost to leave a light or an electric appliance on or running as opposed to shutting it off?  

ANSWER: That's a great question and one more people should know and understand the answer.  I have a rule of thumb that says it costs about a dollar per watt for the electricity to operate an electrical device all year.  So, it costs $75 to burn a 75-watt light bulb all year.  It costs $150 to leave a 150-watt computer turned on all year.If this is enough information for you, you can stop here.  If you're a glutton for punishment, let me give you a few more tidbits that may help you.   The amount of money pouring into the air while you leave electrical gadgets on creeps up on you over time.  For making tradeoff decisions on the spur of the moment I find it useful to be able to quickly estimate how much electrical devices cost to operate.  I use a quick rule of thumb to figure out how much I'm paying to operate these devices, as well as shortcuts you can use to make quick cost tradeoffs.   Again, a device costs about $1 per watt if it's left on all year.  So, it costs $100 to leave a 100-watt bulb on for a year, plus the cost of light bulbs.  If you turn it off in the daytime it will cost you half that, or $50 a year.     Several of my neighbors have 2 or 3 dual 150 watt flood lights they leave on all night.  This costs them three to four hundred dollars a year. 2 bulbs x 150 watts = 300 watts.  300 watts x 2 fixtures = 600 watts600 watts x $1 per watt = $600Night only ==> $600 ÷ 2 = $300 a year for 2 dual floods left on all night   You could pay an extra $10 apiece and get the motion activated kind that only operate a fraction of the time even with the neighbor's cat triggering them occasionally.  I estimate it costs about $30-$50 a year for 2 dual fixtures (4-150 watt bulbs).     Say they're on for an hour a day… (most liberal).  That's one-twelfth the neighbor's on time.  Say one-tenth for easy arithmetic.  So, mine costs about one-tenth of my neighbor's $300, or about $30 a year.  I saved the extra cost of the motion-activated feature in the first month of operation.  This of course does not consider the issue of whether motion activated or continuously on security lights give greater security.     One of these neighbors told me, "I bought 3 because they were so cheap.  I got all three for only $36.  At that price I'm thinking about getting a couple more for my daughter."  If she does, they'll be paying about $900 a year to operate them all, and giving her daughter an expensive gift -- expense for her daughter, that is.Still wanting more?  Read on.   If you have two computers that are turned on 16 hours a day, every day, including printers and other peripherals, they use about 500 watts.  This will cost about $333 a year:500 watts = $50016 hours is 2/3 of the day (16 ÷ 24). 

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Home Improvement

Roy Schmucker

2003-07-01 10:56:00

: I see storm window frames made of different materials.  Do they all do as good of job?  What is the best type of frame to get?  

ANSWER: The material that the frame of a storm window is made of contributes to how well it insulates and how easy it is to maintain. Wood, aluminum, and vinyl are the most common storm window frame materials. There are advantages and disadvantages to all types of frame materials.   Although very strong, light and almost maintenance free, aluminum frames conduct heat very rapidly. Because of this, aluminum makes a very poor insulating material.   Wood frames insulate well, but weather with age and expand and contract according to weather conditions. Wood-frame storm windows installed during the winter may not close easily during the summer, and those installed during the summer may fit loosely in the winter. They can also be quite heavy and thicker than metal frames. This can make storage difficult, reduce the view out the window, and reduce the amount of natural light in the room. Out of most of the choices in storm window frames, wood frames also require the most maintenance. There are, however, aluminum or vinyl clad wood frames that reduce maintenance requirements.   Vinyl frames are usually made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) with ultraviolet light (UV) stabilizers to keep sunlight from breaking down the material. However, vinyl frames are relatively weak and may expand and warp at high temperatures and crack in extremely low temperatures. Also, if sunlight hits the material for many hours a day, colors other than white will tend to fade over time.

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Home Improvement

Larry Setzkorn

2003-06-01 16:04:00

: We are wanting a new look in our kitchen, but we like our cabinets.  We are wondering about refinishing them. Can this be done?  Is it more affordable than changing them out? What are some of the options? 

ANSWER: The cabinets can be refinished, but, if you have any other kind of doors except flat plywood doors, it will be very labor intensive and very expensive unless you want to invest some sweat equity and strip and sand the cabinets yourself.    One alternative is refacing.  New doors and drawers are installed to your specifications and the remaining cabinet surfaces are "faced" with the appropriate wood that you have chosen. (ex. walnut, cherry, oak, etc.) That wood along with the new doors and drawers are finished to your new finish requirements. You have a new kitchen and new color for a cost that's less then new cabinets. Also there would be new hardware to accent that new kitchen.

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Home Improvement

Roy Schmucker

2003-06-01 12:47:00

: Is it better to use interior or exterior storm windows?

ANSWER: For the most part, interior storm windows offer greater convenience than exterior storm windows. They are easier to install and remove and often need less maintenance because they are not exposed to extreme weathering. Interior storm window designs may also complement interior decor. Since they reduce air infiltration better, they also reduce energy loss more than exterior types.  Interior types inhibit air infiltration the most because they seal airtight to the primary window. This creates a superior dead-air space relative to exterior storm windows, which require weep holes. Exterior storm windows require weep holes to allow any rain that may be driven behind them or water vapor from inside the house that condenses in the space between the primary window and the storm window to run out of the window. If an interior storm window is sealed tightly to the primary window, the insulation value of the window increases by about R-1 for ordinary glass or plastic. If the glazing has low-e properties then the R-value increase could be as much as 2.   The pay back period (the time it takes for the money from energy savings to pay for the purchase and installation of storm windows) depends on the initial cost of the windows, the climate, and the cost of fuel. Pay back for storm windows in most climates can take decades. This may be offset by the increase in room comfort (fewer drafts) and perhaps an increase in your house's value, although most home buyers will probably prefer modern energy-efficient replacement windows.)   If you can afford to install exterior storm windows, you can probably afford modern, energy-efficient replacement windows. Replacement windows that have low-e coatings and other energy saving features give a much better pay back than storm windows alone. They also add much more to the value of, and comfort in, the house. In any case, when making a decision on what type of storm window to buy, in addition to the price, you should consider the following factors:   Convenience: Since storm windows must be periodically cleaned or opened for ventilation, they should be easy to move. Interior storm windows are often the best choice for apartments and houses with more than one floor.   Appearance: Consider how it will effect the overall look of your dwelling.   Maintenance: Remember that some types of storm windows require more maintenance than other types.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2003-06-01 10:13:00

: How does one go about planning for a deck? 

ANSWER: Decks and their construction is most interesting. They can be a wonderful addition to any home if all of the elements are considered and planned for, but they can turn out to be a 'nightmare' if even one is left out. Perhaps the following list can help.    First, anticipate your use of the deck. Will it be used mostly for private sunbathing, large parties, family relaxation, outdoor cooking, etc.? These factors influence whether or not you should also add privacy walls/screens, multi-levels, cooking platforms for your grill, etc. Then ask yourself the following questions:    Should the design accommodate benches, lounge chairs, perhaps a table for outdoor dining? It is important to consider how you will be furnishing your deck before we begin building it. For example, by simply adding benches to your deck, you can increase the amount of seating areas without sacrificing the amount of functional space on your deck.    How many people might be using the deck at any given time? The answer to this question impacts the way your deck is built both aesthetically and structurally. Will there be any hotspots (areas where sunlight persistently hits the deck)? If the answer is yes, then you have the perfect area for sunbathing. However, if you prefer to have more shade, then the addition of an overhead arbor to create subtle shaded areas on your deck may be the solution!    Is there an existing deck or other structure that the new structure must accommodate? Even though it might look simple on paper, sometimes it does require a lot of extra labor to build around or tie into existing structures. When a professional contractor constructs a new deck, it will be built level, but existing structures are often not level, and extra work is necessary to cleanly tie the two together. Also, as an example, if you own a hot tub, there will be extra work and materials involved in making the area of the deck that supports it structurally sound.    In the July issue, we’ll continue to discuss more considerations as you plan building a deck.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2003-06-01 10:13:00

: What does it mean if I hear water running in my toilet?

ANSWER: If you hear water running in your toilet, you have reason to be concerned.  A leaky toilet can waste up to 78,000 gallons of water per year.  That's enough to fill two or three backyard swimming pools!  Fortunately the problem is not usually difficult to fix.   If your toilet is "running" it may be leaking internally. While a plumbing professional's advice is recommended, if your toilet is leaking internally, you can perform the following test.    Flush the toilet allowing the tank to refill.    Make sure the water level in the toilet is approximately 1/2" below the top of the overflow tube.    If water is running over the edge of the overflow, that is your problem.  Your fill valve can be adjusted to make the water turn off before it reaches the top of the overflow.  If it can't be adjusted it will have to be replaced.   If water is not going over the overflow and you still hear it, add several drops of dark food color to the tank (many hardware stores have free dye packets made especially for this purpose).  Wait about 20 minutes and see if any of the food color has found its way to the bowl.  If it does, your flapper or flush valve is probably the culprit.  If the seat that the flapper seals against is smooth, replacing the flapper will probably solve your problem.  If the seat is nicked or corroded, you will need to replace the entire flush valve.  Fortunately those parts are easy to replace and a wide variety of parts are available in home centers and hardware stores.   Another test not involving dye or food color is to put a pencil line where the water level is - this is your starting point. Shut off your water supply.  Disconnect the rubber hose that goes from the water control to the overflow tube. (The use of a rubber hose varies by water control model; there may not be one.)  Wait 24 hours - check the difference in the water level from the marking.  After this test, reconnect the rubber hose and turn the water supply back on.   If after these tests you still hear water running or if you're not comfortable removing and replacing toilet parts, it's time to call your plumber.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2003-05-01 12:39:00

:   Why is redwood the best choice for a deck?

ANSWER:  Redwood provides a natural warmth and elegance that's unmatched by other materials. Unlike plastic or metal furniture, redwood blends naturally into any outdoor environment. Redwood's texture and grain patterns have a distinct beauty.QUESTION:  Is redwood an endangered species?ANSWER:  Redwood is not an endangered species. The redwood used in decks in this part of the country comes from California. The State of California has always been protective of its redwood forests. About 85% of the state’s old growth coastal redwoods are preserved in 265,000 acres. This equals 350 square miles of park land and is equivalent to a 1 mile wide redwood forest stretching from San Francisco to Los Angeles. None of these preserved ancient forests are used to produce lumber.QUESTION:  What type of redwood is used in decks?ANSWER:  There are two types of redwood: the Coastal Redwood and the Sierra Redwood. The Sierra Redwood, also known as the Giant Sequoia, is not used commercially. In fact, 95% of the Sierra Redwoods are preserved in state and federal groves.     The Coastal Redwood is the only redwood grown to produce wood products. It is the fastest growing commercial softwood species in the country. In 30 years, redwoods can grow to between 90 and 130 feet tall.QUESTION:  How does redwood compare to other woods?ANSWER:  Redwood's exceptional stability, durability, finish retention, fire resistance, and physical characteristics make it the ultimate choice for outdoor furniture.      Stability  - Redwood is far less likely to warp, check, cup or split. Redwood has the least volumetric shrinking of any commercial American wood. It shrinks only 1.7% across the vertical grain and 3.3% across the flat grain from a green, unseasoned condition with a 10% moisture content.      Durability - Unlike some pressure-treated woods, redwood heartwood has natural decay and insect resistance throughout the lumber, not just on the surface. This means sawn ends, nail holes and all exposed wood.      Finish Retention - Redwood’s ability to take or hold finishes is excellent. Because it contains little or no pitch or resins (sap) and has a unique cellular structure, redwood retains finishes longer and more effectively than most woods.      Fire Resistance - Redwood is not incombustible, but it is highly resistant to fire because it has no volatile resins (sap) and oils.      Physical Characteristics - Redwood is one of the lightest softwoods used for structural purposes, weighing only 28 pounds per cubic foot with a 12% moisture content. At the same time, it is comparatively strong.  

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Home Improvement

Roy Schmucker

2003-05-01 12:22:00

: We think we need new storm doors and windows.  Is there any special magic to the way they work… or are they all based upon not letting any air in?  

ANSWER:  This answer may be a bit more technical than you asked for… but it should help tell you how everything works.The sun radiates enormous amounts of energy, a tiny portion of which reaches the earth in the form of electromagnetic radiation. The electromagnetic spectrum of solar energy is split into three bands by wavelength: the ultraviolet band, the visible band and the near infrared band. The ultraviolet band is the element most responsible for fading. The visible band is the only part of the solar spectrum actually seen with our eyes and is responsible for glare. The near infrared band is the heat element. We do not see it, but we sense it as heat.     Glass is increasingly used in American homes and offices. Clearly, there is a conflict between our desire for a spacious, airy interior incorporating large expanses of glass and the ravages wrought by the sun. Furthermore, there is an energy price to pay. Heat passes readily through glass - approximately 50 percent of a home's utility bills are wasted by loss of heat and heat gain through untreated glass.While you are researching your replacement windows you need to be aware of the U-factor, or U-value, which is the measure of a window's thermal efficiency, based on its resistance to the flow of energy. The lower the U-factor, the more thermally efficient the window. Most new window technology has been aimed at lowering U-factors through the use of three important innovations: warm-edge seals, low emissivity glass coatings and argon gas.     First, modern window systems are generally made with dual-pane glass that provides an air space between the two panes which greatly increases the window's insulation qualities.      Secondly, there is low emissivity glass, commonly referred to as Low-E, which is glass that has been coated with a micro-thin metallic film to improve thermal performance. Low-E is a measurement of a surface's ability to absorb heat. The lower the emissivity, the less heat is absorbed by the glass and the more room heat is reflected back into the home. The lower the emissivity rating, the better. For example, a window with an emissivity rating of 0.45 would reflect back 55 percent of the room heat that would be lost through untreated glass. An emissivity rating of 0.36 means 64 percent of the room heat would be retained.      Low-E glass reduces the transfer of heat (infrared) rays, virtually eliminates ultraviolet radiation (the main cause of fading), through the glass while still allowing light to pass through. In essence, the coating reflects heat back toward its source. Thus, heat from the furnace stays inside the home during cold weather, and heat from the sun stays outside in hot weather, resulting in greater comfort and lower energy costs. Low-E coatings also reduce harmful ultraviolet rays that cause drapes, furniture and art works to fade. This allows home owners to make optimum use of outdoor views afforded by modern spacious windows.     Lastly, some windows utilize argon gas which is a safe, odorless, colorless, non-toxic, non-flammable inert gas that is commonly used in place of air between the glass panes of an insulated Low-E glass unit. Argon's heat conductivity is lower than that of air, and thus it is a better insulator and contributes to a lower U-factor. Argon is not an effective solar performer by itself; that is why it is only used in conjunction with Low-E insulated glass.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2003-05-01 11:00:00

:   I heard, almost as a joke, that sand was probably the best material in the world for stopping sound. I have a stand alone garage for playing music which has unfinished walls.  I am going to put drywall up and fill the walls with sand. Does this sound stupid? Have you ever heard of sand being good for keeping sound in?

ANSWER:  This sounds like a very bad idea to me. While there is no question that sound would have a tough time passing through 4 ½" of sand, using it in the manner you describe would not be practical.   Sand is way too heavy and the walls are not designed to hold all that weight.  Drywall would certainly not be strong enough to resist the pressure from the sand.  The sheathing between the studs and the siding might not be strong enough either.  I would also be concerned that the sand would not be dry enough or clean enough to prevent a myriad of problems.       I would suggest filling the wall cavities with un-faced fiberglass insulation.  Then you can run horizontal metal furring strips that are designed for walls between apartments. The strips hold the drywall away from the wood studs and prevent the transmission of sound through the wooden studs. If you want to add additional soundproofing you could place sheets of Styrofoam insulation between the metal strips and between the drywall and the studs, but I suspect that this might be overkill as the garage door, windows and ceiling will still let a lot of sound in (and out).  Of course, the doors and ceiling could be insulated also but please not with sand!

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Home Improvement

Larry Setzkorn

2003-04-01 11:53:00

:  Sometime back I saw some kitchen cabinets where the hinges were hidden and it made for a very clean look. Are these special hinges? Will they work with any cabinets? Can one change out present exposed hinges to these?

ANSWER:  The hinges you are talking about are probably the european style that is so popular today. They are inserted into a hole in the back of the stile on the cabinet doors. The normal opening with these hinges is 110 degrees, but you can get hinges that open wider. They are best used with new cabinet doors, but in some cases it is possible to retrofit on old doors. There will be holes to fill on the cabinet if the old hinges were displayed outside the door. With the fillers they have today, it may not be very noticable. The best answer on the retrofit is to have someone look at the cabinets and outline a plan how to fix to everyone's satisfaction and see how much the cost would be. Some of the doors cannot be fitted this way without a lot of rework and would probably be less expensive to put up new cabinet doors.

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Home Improvement

Keith Bomholt

2003-04-01 11:23:00

: How big of a problem is indoor air quality?  What can be done to improve it?

ANSWER:  The EPA reports that indoor air quality (IAQ) is five times worse than outdoor air, and at the same time the incidence of allergy and asthma cases are increasing in epidemic proportions. Exposure to air pollutants can be up to 100 times higher indoors than outdoors. The American Lung Association estimates most people spend 90 percent of their time indoors, making indoor air quality (IAQ) extremely important. Many common household items contribute to poor indoor air quality. Compounds found in carpeting, furniture, upholstery, and drapery fabric constantly emit fumes. Other sources of pollutants can include cleaning agents, paints, and personal care products.The tight construction of today's homes also contributes significantly to poor IAQ. Things like weather-stripping and storm doors are designed to save on energy costs. However, they also prevent proper ventilation by keeping indoor air in and outdoor air out. The result can be a build-up of contaminants within the home.Poor IAQ can be the cause of numerous health problems. Medical groups report that as many as half of all illnesses are caused or aggravated by indoor air pollution. Pollutants within the home can cause homeowners to suffer from flu-like symptoms such as headaches, nausea, and respiratory irritation.Two health problems that can be helped by clean indoor air are allergies and asthma. Even people who have never suffered from allergies can benefit from improved IAQ. By removing airborne dust particles from the air, the amount of exposure they have on the respiratory system is greatly reduced.  Thankfully, there are things a homeowner can do to help alleviate potential IAQ concerns. The first step toward improving indoor air is to identify the sources of air pollutants. Eliminating or reducing these sources is the most effective way to clean the air. Although it is not possible to eliminate every contaminant source, reducing the sources and/or the amount of pollutants they emit, will contribute to a healthier living environment.  Ventilation also plays an important role in improving indoor air quality. Proper ventilation can reduce the concentration of pollutants inside the home. Thoroughly cleaning the home is another way to minimize the concentration of pollutants. Frequent vacuuming... if done properly... can help to reduce the amount of dust particles in the air.  Conventional vacuum cleaners merely re-circulate contacted dirt.  Central vacuum systems remove a much higher percentage of contacted dirt, dust mites, dander, pollen, and other allergens from the living areas in your home and secure contacted debris outside family living quarters. In addition to proper vacuuming, some of the most effective solutions for poor indoor air quality may involve heating and cooling systems. Electronic air cleaners (EACs) and high-efficiency air filters can assist in absorbing particles that otherwise would escape due to their size. EACs and high-efficiency filters help clean the air and provide respiratory relief by removing dust, dirt, and pollen. Other products that are available include humidifiers, carbon monoxide detectors, and air purifiers.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2003-04-01 11:23:00

:  Are there different processes one needs to use when painting new inside wood versus previously painted wood?

ANSWER:  Yes there is.  Let's take a look at painting new wood first:Start by cleaning it to remove any sawdust, dirt or other contaminates.  Once clean, prime with a quality latex or oil base primer. When dry, fill all of the holes with spackling compound and caulk all cracks.  Lightly sand with 120 grit sandpaper and wipe it clean using a damp cloth or tack rag prior to applying your finish coat of enamel.  Two coats of finish paint are recommended with sanding in-between using 150 grit sandpaper. Now, for previously painted or stained wood: It is never a good idea to apply latex base paints over oil base paints. You can determine what you have by rubbing the surface with a rag and denatured alcohol. Latex base paint will soften and leave a residue on the rag... oil base will not. If your existing coating is a latex, simply patch the holes and dings, sand lightly using 120 grit sandpaper, caulk cracks, wipe clean with a damp cloth and apply your finish coat of enamel. If you have oil base you can prepare and re-coat using an oil base enamel.  You can switch to a latex paint system but preparation is critical. Converting to a latex base paint is something that is going to have to be done eventually as most oil base paints are being phased out by manufacturers in order to comply with new EPA standards. A thorough de-glossing of the surface is necessary, using 120 grit sandpaper.  Be sure to sand all surfaces. "Liquid Sandpapers" are not recommended for this as they tend to leave an oily film. Clean well with fresh water and rags.  Dry and apply a coat of latex primer designed for adhesion.  Allow to dry completely, at least 48 hours, sand lightly using 120 grit sandpaper, and then apply your finish latex enamel. In any painting situation, follow all manufacturer's recommendations for preparation and application.  They want you to succeed and be happy with their product. 

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2003-04-01 11:07:00

:  We are wanting to add a deck to our home.  We read something about 'frost heaving and thawing'.  What do these terms mean.  Should we wait till later on in the year?

ANSWER:  Frost heave is caused by water that is trapped underground as layers of soil become frozen. When the water freezes, the mass of the soil expands, causing the surface to move vertically. If this process were to occur in an open field with undisturbed soil, the ground most likely would rise (about 1/2 inch at the most) during the winter, settling back down in the spring as the trapped water thawed. During cold seasons, ice lenses form, exerting pressure against the rough edges of the concrete post, forcing it upward. A pocket will form under the post where the soil is not affected by frost. Dirt particles and water will then accumulate into this pocket. During the spring thaw, it is likely that the post will not return to its original position (due to the accumulation of soil deposits). When repeated throughout the life of the deck, this process of lifting the post can cause significant damage to the structural integrity of the deck. Problems are avoided by anchoring each post down by building a large hole down to the frost line. The shape of the hole is an upside down "T." The hole must be deeper and wider at the bottom than at the top. This is difficult to do with a shovel, but is typically required by building codes. If this is not done correctly, there will be heaving over time which could damage your structure. If the footings (posts) are properly installed, below the frost line per building code, a deck can be installed any time of the year.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2003-03-01 14:09:00

:  We want to finish our basement. Our present ceiling is open joists. Is a suspended ceiling the best solution? How expensive is it?

ANSWER:  A suspended ceiling offers some real advantages over the permanent variety. First, it conceals obstructions attached to the underside of the joists, yet allows easy access for fixing pipes or adding wiring later on. Suspended ceilings are also better sound barriers than drywall ceilings and since you level the ceiling as you install it, the existing joists need not be level or even straight. With a suspended system you can add insulation and install ceiling lights by simply removing an acoustical panel and replacing it with a special drop-in fluorescent fixture. You can even add a drop-in that has a built-in heating element. If noise is a big problem, there are special acoustical panels that work well. The face finish on panels extends from a soft flat decorative look to a hard plastic finish that can be washed using strong degreasing and cleaning solutions. Some people even apply faux sky and cloud finishes to ceiling panels giving an otherwise boring basement a whole new outdoors look and feel. The possibilities are endless. It isn't that difficult to do either. You can figure that labor for an average room is approximately 2 days and materials will run $300 - $400 depending on the cost of ceiling tile. You'll need two special tools for this job - aviation snips and a water level. Aviation snips easily cut the light-gauge metals used to support acoustical ceilings. They're designed for maximum leverage and have a spring action that opens the tool after a cut's been made. A water level works on a simple premise - water always seeks its own level, so water contained in clear plastic tubing can be used to locate points around the room that are exactly at the same level. Another option for leveling your ceiling is a  laser level, a high tech easy to use device that can be set up in one spot and used all over the room.  A red line shows up at the same level and aids the installer in setting the wall angle and every hanger wire in the room.  Laser levels have come down in price (well below $100).  While that may be a little pricey for one project, they can be used for other projects from hanging pictures to setting fence posts.  If you have access to one, I'd highly recommend using it to assure that every point in your new ceiling is dead level.One advantage of a drywall ceiling is that it uses only ½" of ceiling height.  This can be the deciding factor in many low ceiling situations.  If done correctly a drywall ceiling can look very professional and has the advantage of not showing the 2' by 4' grid system.  Usually that means a professional did the job.  Drywall installation and finishing are usually tough for a do-it-yourselfer.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2003-03-01 12:24:00

:  We are looking to remodel our kitchen this Spring.  Sometime back over a year or so ago, you offered a list of things that can greatly help the process.  Could you print it again?

ANSWER:  Yes... and thank you.  You can do as much or as little of the planning as you want.  There are a host of questions your remodeler/designer is going to have.  Here are some thoughts and items that will help the process: First - get these items. You will need them: • file folder - multi pocket type (for organizing ideas, magazine cut-outs, photos, etc. that you might like to incorporate into your new kitchen)• graph paper - for sketching your kitchen layout ideas (you don't need to be an experienced draftsperson)• measuring tape (25' recommended but most any kind will do)• notebook (the kind with several subject sections is the best)Then, think about answers to the questions below.  Write down the questions and your answers. Keep them in your file for later reference. You and your kitchen designer will need to address some or all of these while designing your new kitchen. What is my primary objective? Such as - do I want a new look, more storage, more counter space, upgrade for resale, etc. ? What do I like about my present kitchen? This is very important.  You may want to keep certain features from your old kitchen in your new kitchen. Don't give up what works. What features of my present kitchen do I most want to change? Such as - I don't like my current cabinet style, countertops, appliances, floor, lighting, etc. What is my budget for this project? You need to "qualify" yourself and what you can reasonably expect to complete. Kitchen remodeling is one of the best investments you can make in your home. It is possible to get nearly 100 % return on your kitchen remodeling investment.What are the most important functions of my kitchen? It may simply be such things as cooking, family dining, etc. But it may also include homework, budget planning, entertaining, watching TV, etc.When do I want to have my remodeling project completed? You need to allow a minimum of 4 months. More realistic, 6 to 8 months. Most custom cabinets take two months to arrive after ordering. This does NOT mean your home will be "torn up" all this time. But it allows plenty of time for planning, order processing, shipping, demolition, installation, moving back into your kitchen and re-organization. What kinds of things will I need to make room for in my new design? You might include a toaster, food processor, blender, coffee maker, everyday dishes, china, bulk groceries, cookbooks, trays, etc.What other special accommodations might I want in the new kitchen? Things such as a desk/computer/printer space, eating bar, washer/dryer, baking center, hobby or craft area, etc. Will I need to upgrade existing electrical or plumbing? The answer here may depend on whether you change the layout of your sink, cooktop or oven. But it also may depend on the requirements of the local building codes for remodeling. Who will be the primary user? Is this person left or right handed, very tall or short, does this person have any special needs? Who else will be using the kitchen? For example, will this become a "two cook" kitchen? Do I want double or single ovens? Two Dishwashers? Two Sinks ? Will children be using the kitchen and what are their ages? Answering these questions are an important first step in remodeling your kitchen. Don't overlook them! The more detailed you can be with your answers, the easier it will be to develop a design that will make you happy and will serve your family for many years to come.

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Home Improvement

Keith Bomholt

2003-02-01 15:30:00

:  Our garage door is over 10 years old and we need to replace it. What do we need to consider before purchasing a new garage door? Do we really need to use a professional installer?

ANSWER:  As you shop for a garage door an important point to remember is to select a manufacturer that has a long standing reputation. So if replacement parts are needed in the next 10 years your service provider can find them. And yes, you will need a professional installer. It is very important to note that the installation of a garage door is not a do-it-yourself job. It is the largest moving object in your home and, because of the large number of small parts, its installation is quite technical. Connecting the springs can be particularly dangerous, and proper installation is critical to the performance and balance of your door. Incorrect installation can also void certain warranties. Don't take a chance. Use a professional installer to be safe. Other components to consider when shopping for a garage door are the opener, springs, photoelectric eyes, sections, hinges, rollers, and the track.1) Openers are available in belt-drive, screw-drive and chain-drive models in both 1/2 or 1/3 horsepower.2) Springs. Garage doors are balanced by torsion or extension springs.  Most people are familiar with extension springs which are mounted just above the horizontal track and perpendicular to the closed garage door. Extension springs get their lifting power by stretching. Torsion springs, mounted above the closed door, parallel and horizontal to the top section of the door, are superior primarily because they offer more safety to the homeowner and better balance the door to provide a smoother operation. Torsion springs wind and unwind to provide the lifting power.3) Photoelectric Eyes are mounted five to six inches off the floor on either side of the door. Working in conjunction with the garage door opener, photo eyes send an invisible beam across the door opening. If the beam is broken while the door is operating, the door will reverse direction and return to the open position.4) Sections are the primary visual part of your door. The quality of the sections are important because of their weight.5) Hinges should be made of high-quality steel because they bear the weight of the door in the upright (closed) position. Some premium models use hinges that are powdercoated for maximum protection against moisture and rust.6) Rollers. Steel wheel ball-bearing rollers provide for a smoother, quieter operation. Nylon rollers with steel ball bearings allow superior noise reduction - a plus when living space is used above or in close proximity to the garage.7) Track. We recommend replacing your track when you replace your garage door because each brand of garage door has been specially designed to work with a specific type of track. In addition, replacing your track is an inexpensive way to insure that your entire garage door system is as safe as possible. Heavy gauge steel ensures stability and long life of the track and can be custom fitted for the garage door you order.

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Home Improvement

Ron Long

2003-02-01 15:14:00

:  We recently purchased an older home. The bathrooms have tile that is terribly outdated. Is it possible to paint ceramic tile? What is the process?

ANSWER:  Even though ceramic tile and the earlier plastic tile are a very hard, non-porous surface, they are paintable and at a fraction of the cost of removing and replacing the tile.Begin by removing any towel bars, soap dishes, etc. that are on the surface to be painted. Also make sure all the tiles are still stuck on firmly. Then clean the entire surface with trisodium phosphate (TSP) detergent to remove soap and other residues that might be on the tile surface. Also remove any mildew with a mixture of one part bleach to three parts water. When finished cleaning be sure to rinse entire surface several times with clean water to remove any detergent or bleach that may be left. Allow area to dry thoroughly.The next step is to apply a bond coat primer. This is a primer specifically designed for hard, non-porous surfaces. Most standard primers must be absorbed into the top layer of fibers on the surface being painted. Where as a bond coat primer has a higher adhesion factor, so it will adhere to a hard surface forming a good bonded coat for the top coat to adhere to. This primer can be applied with a brush, roller, or pad applicator. If brushing on be sure to use a high quality brush to avoid brush marks. If you use a roller be sure it is a short nap roller designed for smooth surfaces. Also be sure to have adequate ventilation since the bathroom areas tend to be smaller rooms, the vapors may be very strong. Allow the primer to dry at least one hour under normal conditions before top coating. Cooler temperatures or high humidity will slow the drying time. Allow more time as needed.Once the primer is dry the top coat can be applied. Use a quality mildew resistant bathroom paint. This paint normally comes in white but it can be tinted to many lighter shades of colors. Apply top coat in the same manor as the primer was applied. You may choose to paint it all the same color or use several colors to form a border or pattern. You could also use sponge painting techniques to create a different look, the possibilities are endless. Be sure to allow the final coat to dry for 24-36 hours before reinstalling the towel bars, etc. Also allow 24-36 hours before using the shower area.If you follow these steps you will end up with a good, washable surface and an updated look at a fraction of the cost of replacing the tile.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2003-02-01 14:31:00

:  My house smells funny in the spring. My cement-block construction house is built over a crawl space, with just a teensy basement. In the spring, the house smells funny, and I particularly notice the smell coming from the cold air return (which I then covered up, since I had the furnace turned off by then). I am wondering if the damp ground in the spring causes the smell (I know it is not the smell of something rotting as it isn't that foul of a smell).  The property is low and swampy during the spring. I am considering digging a French drainage system on both sides of the house (10-12 feet away) to drain spring melt and fall rains completely away from the foundation of the house. My questions are two: (1) do you think better drainage would help the smell? and (2) has anyone ever done their own French drain? (and if yes, do you have any pointers/hints/warnings?)

ANSWER:  Most likely the smell is caused by mold or mildew. You are right to be concerned about getting the water away from your house.  Many times this can be accomplished by simply adding dirt around the foundation so the water runs away.If that doesn't get the job done, French drains might be in order.  French drains can be as simple as a small ditch that drains the water from around the house to an area where it won't cause problems.  Then the ditch is filled with rocks so that people don't trip on them.A more sophisticated method is to place about 2" of gravel on the bottom and then lay in some slotted drain tube (with the holes down) available from any lumber yard or home center.  The tube is then covered with gravel.  Some people line the ditch and cover the gravel with nylon fabric to keep dirt from clogging the gravel and drain tube.The ditch is then covered with dirt and grass can be planted.  The main thing is that the ditch slopes away from the house so that gravity can do its job.After the water problem outside is solved, it's time to work on the crawl space.One thing that you might try is adding a vapor barrier on top of the dirt. This is done using a heavy plastic sheet that you can purchase at most hardware or lumber stores. Be sure to cover the blocks and the dirt, and seal all seams well.  Your crawl space should be ventilated to eliminate moisture. It is not as important in the winter, but especially in the spring and during wet weather, you need the ventilation to help get rid of moisture.If the odor persists, you may have to get help from an expert in mold and mildew, but I would do all the things outlined in this letter first.

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Home Improvement

Wess Galyon

2003-02-01 13:49:00

:  It's that time of year again... the Home Show.  What's new this year and what will we see at the Show?

ANSWER:  The Wichita Area Builders Association (WABA) kicks off its annual Home Show event on Thursday, February 6, 2003, at Century II Convention Center. Home Show 2003 is the 49th show for WABA, and will feature over 250 different booths representing a wide variety of interior and exterior home products and services. Once again a "sell out" event, exhibits will represent home products and services for virtually every aspect of a home, from floors to ceilings, interiors and exteriors including outdoor living, decorating and improving, constructing and remodeling and more.The Home Show is an excellent one-stop-shop for a lot of different companies that are in the business of home products and services. Exhibitors will showcase their newest products during the Show. Consumers attending the Show can compare products and conduct research right at the Show without feeling pressured.The primary objective of the Wichita Area Builders Association is to work toward providing quality, affordable housing and homeownership for the greatest number of people possible. The Association strives to promote a better understanding between the industry and the general public in regard to housing issues and acts as a liaison between the building industry and all levels of government whose actions impact efforts to maintain housing affordability.Homeownership strengthens the social fabric of the nation.  By encouraging civic participation and involvement in schools and communities and inspiring the upkeep and improvement of the home, homeownership fosters good citizenship.The Home Show opens February 6 and runs through February 9, 2003 at Century II Convention Center.  Check the ad in this publication for hours and admission costs.  Remember, there is free parking and shuttle bus service from Lawrence Dumont Stadium.   Whether you're considering building, remodeling or redecorating, Home Show 2003 is the place to be.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2003-02-01 13:49:00

:  What is the best way to get an honest answer to the question:  How much do you charge?

ANSWER:  Everyone in the service business cringes a little when people call and ask, "How much do you charge?" No, it's not because we charge too much. It's because, deep down, we know we cannot completely answer the question. Most service firms will quote an hourly rate over the phone, but does that really tell you anything? What any homeowner really wants to know is, "How much will it cost me to fix my problem or provide me with what I want?" To answer that question, any legitimate company needs to know: 1) the exact nature of the problem, which cannot be described with certainty over the phone, and 2) how long it will take to fix it. Quoting an hourly rate might seem to provide a rough estimate. Yet how often have you seen home repair jobs drag on for hour after hour with "the meter running"? Too many variables come into play, including the exact nature of the problem and the skill of the service personnel we will send to your home. Some are more experienced than others are and work faster. With this in mind, I would like to suggest some other questions that you as homeowners might wish to ask of the people you call for home repair and/or remodeling? Can you guarantee a maximum price to do the job? Expect to hear a lot of stuttering and stammering with this one. Some contractors will laugh out loud. However, there are a few progressive contractors out there who do quote exact prices, guaranteed, once they perform a diagnosis. Usually they charge a modest up-front fee for the diagnosis, though many waive the charge if they get the job. Nonetheless, it does remove the guesswork. Do you charge for time driving to and from a supply house? Some jobs might require only 15 minutes of labor to perform, but you'll see the service technician disappear for an hour or more to go pick up parts not stocked in the truck. Supply houses are some of the favorite hangouts of many service techs. Many serve free coffee and snacks to their customers, and it's a great place to catch up on the latest industry gossip. Who will be doing the work? Sometimes it will be a master mechanic with many years of experience. At other times, though, it could be a youngster with less than a year under his belt - maybe even an apprentice filling in during an absence. Who does the work has a lot to do with how much you end up paying when rates are quoted on an hourly basis. If the problem persists or reappears after your mechanic leaves, will you come back to fix it at no extra charge - immediately? Most companies will answer yes to this question, but watch out. Most labor guarantees extend only a month, which is not very long when you think about it. Also, callbacks tend to be the lowest priority when service firms get busy. Can you show me proof of a license and insurance, both general liability and worker compensation? This is a big one. Most people don't realize that if an uninsured worker gets injured while working in a home, the homeowner can be held financially responsible. On the flip side, in some states where licensing is required, a homeowner is not obligated to pay for any work done by an unlicensed contractor. What time will you show up? Most service companies can't pinpoint their time of arrival closer than "morning or afternoon." This can get expensive if the homeowner has to take off a full or half-day of work. Progressive service companies can many times pinpoint within an hour or two when their service technician will be at the door. If he or she does get delayed, these companies will call with an updated time of arrival. Another useful gauge of a service firm's value is if there is even anybody available to answer these questions. Many contractors try to do business using answering machines, promising to return calls at some undetermined time. This isn't much help to someone who needs an emergency repair right now. Also, how many of you have had this experience - you call one contractor and leave a message on an answering machine. Then you call someone else to do the work that is available now. A day or two later, the contractor with an answering machine calls you back. You inform him that you had someone else do the job. Then he asks, "How much did he charge?" You tell him, and then the guy says, "You got ripped off. I would have done the job for half that price!" Reminds me of the old story about the customer who goes into a store to buy a toaster. The owner rings up a $25 sale. “That's outrageous!" the customer complains. "A store down the street sells the same toaster for $15." "Well, why didn't you buy it there?" asked the owner. "Because they're out of toasters." "Heck," replied the owner, "when we run out of toasters, we only charge $10." Let the buyer beware.

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Home Improvement

Ron Long

2003-01-01 12:08:00

:  I have a leak in the bottom of the wall in my basement. I have had people come in and tell me the drain tile is bad and that it will need to be replaced. The estimate is for digging down… inside the house… around each wall… and laying new drain tile. Isn't there an easier and less costly way? They want $8,000!

ANSWER:  Unfortunately leaky basements are fairly common in both old and new construction due to settling, high water tables, and poor drainage to name just a few. Depending on the severity of the leak many times you can repair it yourself. In the case where the leak is at the bottom of the basement wall there are several ways to repair it. If the leak is only a little seepage after a series of hard rains and is located in one or only a few spots, the wall can be sealed with an hydraulic cement based paint. This paint fills the pores of the cement and slightly expands in the pores to form a waterproof seal. If hairline cracks are present try cleaning them out and filling them with a hydraulic water stop cement or an epoxy based sealant. If it is a severe teak that after every rain leaks, it may require sealing from both the inside and the outside of the wall. Make sure rain gutters are in good condition and are set up to carry the water far enough away from the foundation will help. Also making sure the dirt and landscaping is slopped away from the house will help. A leak is a leak, but every circumstance is a little different. You may want to visit your local hardware/home improvement center and let a professional help you more with your problem.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2003-01-01 11:40:00

: What are the different types of insulation?  Which is best for this area?

ANSWER:  Although insulation can be made from a variety of materials, it usually comes in four types - batts, rolls, loose-fill, and rigid foam boards. Each type is made to fit in a different part of your house. Batts are made to fit between the studs in your walls or between the joists of your ceilings or floors. Batts are usually made of fiber glass or rock wool. Fiber glass is manufactured from sand and recycled glass, and rock wool is made from basaltic rock and recycled material from steel mill wastes. Rolls or blankets are also usually made of fiber glass and can be laid over the floor in the attic. Loose-fill insulation, usually made of fiber glass, rock wool or cellulose, is blown into the attic or walls. Cellulose is made from recycled materials treated with fire-retardant chemicals. By far the most common material used in Kansas for rolls, batts or loose fill is fiber glass.Rigid foam boards are made of polyisocyanurate, extruded polystyrene (XPS or blueboard), expanded polystyrene (EPS or beadboard), or other materials. These boards are lightweight and generally have an R-value of 4 to 7 per inch. Rigid board insulation is made to be used in confined spaces such as exterior walls, basements, foundation and stem walls, concrete slabs, and cathedral ceilings. The easiest and most cost-effective way to insulate your home is to add insulation in the attic. To find out if you have enough attic insulation, measure the thickness of insulation. If there is less than R-22 (7 inches of fiber glass or rock wool or 6 inches of cellulose) you could probably benefit by adding more. Most U.S. homes should have between R-22 and R-49 insulation in the attic. If your attic has ample insulation and your home still feels drafty and cold in the winter or too warm in the summer, chances are you need to add insulation to the exterior walls as well. This is a more expensive measure that usually requires a contractor, but it may be worth the cost if you live in a very hot or cold climate. You may also need to add insulation to your crawl space. Either the walls or the floor above the crawl space should be insulated. Most experts tend to favor insulating the stem-walls.  Also, it's a good idea to put polyethylene film on the ground to keep moisture from rising from the ground into the floor.

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Home Improvement

Larry Setzkorn

2003-01-01 11:40:00

:  What characteristics of kitchen cabinets affect the price the most.

ANSWER:  There are three areas of cost in all manufacturing. Overhead, material and labor. If the manufacture has a new building, expensive equipment, large electrical, heating and other expenses, the overhead will be high. This is offset by productivity. The more items built per hour the lower the overhead cost per item. Material, for the most part is not affected by productivity. It is governed by what material you use and how much waste there is. Cherry costs more per board foot than Poplar. The cost of cabinets will be higher for Cherry than Poplar. Hinges can cost as little as $.50 each up to $12.00 or more. Drawer slides can cost little if you use wood or $15.00 or more for full extension slides.Door knobs can cost little or more than $25.00. This depends on the customer’s wants and needs. Labor is the third cost. This, like overhead can vary due to productivity. The more a person produces the less the cost per hour is included in the cabinet. Most manufacturers today know this and produce standard boxes.It is faster and easier (productivity) to build cabinets this way. These are the costs that govern the final price of your new cabinets.  Of course there is an additional cost over and above these prices if the cabinets have to be customized for handicap reasons or to fit an area that standard cabinets will not fit.  Productivity is no longer in play. Labor and overhead increase and the possibility of waste in material goes up. Knowing these things can help one understand what makes up the final price of cabinets while also assisting the buyer in what he/she can do to control these costs.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2003-01-01 11:30:00

:  My fiancee and I are considering purchasing a 15-year-old home. My question is this: I was told that right around 15 years is about the same you generally would want to upgrade certain things in your home, such as the water heater, new roof, etc. Is this true? What are the appropriate times those things should be done? Is one better off to build new?

ANSWER:   The general rules of thumb on remodel, repair and replace are as follows: Bathrooms - every 15-20 years you will do a total overhaul with the possible exception of the tub. A helpful hint might be to look and feel around the toilets and ends of the tubs and showers on the floor. If the flooring looks or feels raised, it is or recently was leaking.Kitchen - every 20-25 years you will do a total overhaul if the cabinets were well made and installed the first time. Roofing varies to the type of roof. Fiberglass composition roofs started out at 15-year guarantees and went to 25 years. A cheap roof won't last beyond the 15-year guarantee and a good roof barely makes it to 20. A CLUE report from your insurance company can assist with claims that were made in the past on the roof. Water heaters are every 5-7 years depending on your water conditions. If everything is original from the time of construction, after 15 years much will come due for remodel/repair/replace in relatively short order. But remember... chances are the older the home these days... the better it was built. The landscaping on older homes is irreplaceable in short order. It would take many years for trees and shrubs to mature on new construction in the same fashion as they exist on older homes. You will also want to consider the neighborhood. Aesthetics sometimes takes years to happen with new homes in a new development. If it's a question of building new or buying old and remodeling/repairing/replacing now or later... there just about as many that favor one as the other. If however the decision is what is the best value... buying old wins most of the time.

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Home Improvement

Keith Bomholt

2002-12-01 17:35:00

: Does a steel garage door require maintenance? What is the difference (other than being a bit thicker) between a 24-gauge steel door and a 27-gauge? Will I notice the differences, and, if so, what are they? 

ANSWER: All garage doors require maintenance. Besides the required oiling of the rollers, extension spring pulleys need to be checked, and occasionally springs need to be adjusted. All nuts and bolts need to be kept tight and adjusted. Remember that since the garage door is most likely the largest moving object in your home, any adjustments or maintenance should be completed by a trained professional.  Many choose a steel garage door because they are durable, provide strength and security, are lighter weight, provide better weather resistance with higher energy savings, and are low maintenance. Steel doors generally require easier hardware. With today's technology, steel doors can have the attractive appearance of wood or can be painted to match the decor of your house.  Naturally the 24 gauge is a heavier gauge, but on an eight or nine foot door, the difference is not noticeable. For the larger 16-foot door, the ability of the 24 gauge to withstand Kansas winds of 70 miles per hour or more is very noticeable. Steel doors can also be insulated, making them far more energy efficient than wood. With the heavier gauge, most manufacturers start with hot-dipped galvanized steel. The steel is prepainted inside and out, either with a primer coat or with a baked-on polyester finish. Higher quality doors are then laminated with a dense polystyrene insulation board and finished with another laminated hot-dipped galvanized steel backer. Exposed center stiles add strength to each section.When you are ready to buy a new garage door, go visit a garage door company that has a showroom with both wood and steel garage doorsamples.Thank you, readers, for your questions. Knowledge about garage door products helps you make the best decision on what suits your needs.

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Home Improvement

Ron Long

2002-12-01 09:46:00

:  Wood rot and mildew...  where does it come from? How do you deal with it?"

ANSWER:  Wood rot and mildew are both caused by excess moisture and/or high humidity situations. Both are common problems around the home and can be corrected.Wood rot is commonly found on the exterior of the home on areas such as window sills, trim boards around the windows and doors, wood porch railings and support posts, and trim behind rain guttering. Moisture, whether it be from rainfall or lawn sprinklers seeps behind and underneath these areas. Areas like this are not exposed to light or moving air which help dry the wood. The wood fibers absorb this moisture and stay damp or wet for long periods of time. Eventually the surface fibers of the wood begin to break down or decay exposing more fibers deeper in the wood and the cycle continues.When a wood rot problem is located drill or chisel into the affected area and determine the extent of the damage. In many cases it is best to replace the wood with a new piece. However, if the damage is minor or in an area that is not practical to replace there are several "wood hardeners" available that allow you to repair damaged areas. With these products you remove the surface wood rot, apply the hardener and allow it to dry. Then fill the effected area with an exterior wood filler, sand, prime and paint the area. When replacing the complete board with a new one be sure to prime and paint the back, underneath side and edges that are not seen also. This seals the wood and helps prevent future wood rot. Once the wood has been repaired or replaced be sure to caulk and seal all areas that allow moisture to go behind and underneath these areas. Periodical inspection of the caulk and sealers, and replaced as needed will help ensure the wood rot does not return.Mildew is caused by repeated exposure to moisture and/or high humidity. The high humidity greatly slows down the drying process of the affected areas or surface, promoting bacteria growth that causes mildew. These areas are usually found inside the home but mildew is sometimes found on the exterior. Areas inside the home most commonly affected are the tub/shower area and in the basement. These areas usually have poor ventilation which keeps the humidity high. Installing an exhaust fan in the bathroom with approximately 100CFM will greatly reduce the humidity. Run the fan approximately 30 minutes after each shower. Smaller CFM fans are available but will require longer run times. Also wiping down the shower walls with a shower squeegee or dry towel after each use will also help. This small step will help reduce mildew growth.On slight mildew affected areas there are a number of mildew removers available. Most often on tiled surfaces the grouting will need to be sanded down or removed and regrouted and sealed. On painted surfaces wipe down the affected areas and apply a primer/sealer. When this is dry mildew proof paints are available to top coat this. In the basement installing a de-humidifier will reduce the humidity level. Also leaving a furnace/AC vent open to the basement will help.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2002-12-01 09:12:00

:   What is the most difficult part of designing a kitchen?

ANSWER:  The most difficult part is the first part - creating the general layout that works and looks the best. The designer will most likely be working with restrictions of the existing structure size, your remodeling budget, window and plumbing locations, arrangement of adjacent rooms, NKBA guidelines, etc. and still try to create a unique and exciting design that fulfills your desires and dreams for your new kitchen.Sometimes there is only one layout that works. Sometimes a number of layouts are found that meet all the criteria and then the task is to work with you to narrow the choices and meet your goals. Usually the final design is a combination of various features from a number of different layouts. Once the final layout is determined, the final finishes, styles and color choices can be incorporated.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2002-12-01 09:12:00

:  What is the procedure for painting over wallpaper? 

ANSWER:  You can change the look of a room with outdated wallpaper by simply painting over it. Two coats of high-bonding- stain-killing paint, followed by a top coat in your desired color, will allow you to skip the messy job of stripping the old wallpaper. Note that painting over is suitable only for wallpaper that's in good condition and securely in place. Here are the materials you will need:-High-Bonding-Stain-killing primer-Interior wall paint in desired color -Paint roller-Fine emery board-Strong glue to repair loose seamsFirst, prepare the wallpaper for painting by securely gluing down loose edges. Wallpaper with holes and peeling patches can't be painted over, but if the wallpaper's secure except for a few loose edges at the seams, seal each seam with a very strong glue and press down securely.  Note that if you are covering a flocked paper, the flock will show through with varying results. Second, apply two coats of high-bonding-stain-killing primer to completely cover the wallpaper pattern. Let dry between coats. The reason I recommend high bonding primer is that most wallpaper is vinyl which requires a little help in keeping the paint on the wall.Third, if the wallpaper seam is visible after two coats of paint, lightly file the seam smooth with a very fine emery board.Finally, apply the top coat of paint. Done properly, you will see no hint of the wallpaper pattern beneath it.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2002-11-01 15:46:00

:  When visiting Home Improvement Shows looking for a remodeling contractor, what should I keep an eye out for?

ANSWER:  The number one thing to look for, is how nice the booth looks. A contractor willing to put time and money into a booth is usually going to be the one who will be here tomorrow. Nicely crafted display booths cost a lot of money, and a 'fly-by-night contractor' won't put out that kind of money. Talk to the person who is attending to the booth. They may not be the most knowledgeable on all subjects, but they should have a general idea of most facets of the remodeling field. Look at the literature the company provides. Is it professionally done? Do they have pictures of past work? Are the pictures thrown in a shoe box, or are they displayed nicely? All the little things that take time (and money) to do says a lot about how the company will treat your remodeling project. Home improvement shows are a great place to talk to a number of contractors in a short period of time. Remember, the contractors have a huge influx of people they need to talk with. If a contractor takes your name and number, and does not get back with you right away, it is probably because he took 50 names and numbers before you came to see him. At home improvement shows, don't give your name to EVERY contractor you see . Instead, walk through the whole show, talking with contractors(and making notes), then go back and make a few appointments with the two or three that really impressed you. You will do yourself and the contractors a big favor.

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Home Improvement

Ron Long

2002-11-01 15:38:00

:  What is the best process for refinishing wood floors so as to get the best results.?

ANSWER:  To begin the project remove all furniture, rugs, etc. from the room.  Then lightly sand the entire area with a fine sandpaper, 220 grit works best.  Sand in the direction with the grain of the wood.  This removes the old wax or finish and provides for a uniform surface.  After sanding is completed, sweep or vacuum up the dust and wipe down the entire area with a cloth dampened with odorless mineral spirits to remove any remaining dust.  Apply a light coat of fast drying polyurethane with a natural bristle brush maintaining a wet edge to avoid lap marks.  Allow this coat to dry 5-6 hours then sand very lightly only removing the sheen from the first coat.  Wipe down floor again to remove dust.  Apply a second coat of polyurethane.  Three coats are best for high traffic areas.  Repeat the above steps between each coat.After you have applied the final coat allow approximately 24 hours before light use and wait 72 hours before replacing furniture.  Wait approximately a week to replace any rugs, etc.  This process will give you a great looking floor that will be durable.  If you want to change the color of your floor or have any questions feel free to  contact Ron.  He will be more than happy to go over the many options with you.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2002-11-01 15:38:00

:  How big of a deal can it be to be one's own general contractor on a remodel?  

ANSWER:  You're like most folks.  You want to do an addition and you think if you hire all the subcontractors yourself, you won't have to pay the contractor's fee. As an owner-builder, many communities let you do this, but you might want to consider what all is involved. The first question to ask yourself is "how many sub contractors will be involved?"  If the answer is only one or two and you're confident that you can find one or two that you know are good and you know enough about the project to supervise their work, you might want to go ahead.  But, if the answer is 4 or 5 or more, you better think hard.  The coordination problems increase exponentially with the number of subs involved.Second, it takes a great deal of time to serve as a general contractor (GC) and the less experience you have, the more time it will take you. Any veteran GC will tell you there are some important points to consider before you undertake such a project:Building Process - You've got to know what needs to be done, and when. It's very easy to have costs go out of control because you miss things that should have been done earlier. Building Trades - A good GC will supervise all of the subs, and will constantly check the quality of every sub's work. Will you recognize work that needs correcting? Building Codes - Will you be able to look at a sub's work and know if it will pass inspection?  A good GC will, and you won't have to pay a re-inspection fee or put up with the resulting delays. Construction Scheduling - The GC is the one who stays on top of the schedule, and makes sure everything gets done when it needs to be done. If a sub misses his scheduled dates, delays can begin cascading on you.  The GC can apply more pressure to get a sub on the job than an individual can.  If he has to, the GC can bring in another sub.Builder's Relationships - Many of the best subs are very selective about which jobs they will accept.  Subs take into account the level of construction knowledge of the person they'll be working with.  If they think there might be problems on the job, the price goes up.  They also consider the opportunity for repeat business when they set their prices. How will you measure up? Capital - Any good GC will have enough cash on hand to keep your project moving even when subs threaten to pull off of your job unless they get paid, often up front for shop-produced items. Contracting Knowledge - What constitutes a valid change order? Will you know how to distinguish a bogus up-charge from a reasonable change in scope? GCs work with contracts and contractors every day, and can usually tell you down to the finest detail exactly what is included in each sub's contract.  Warranty - A good GC will warranty his work and sort things out if two or three subs are blaming each other.  Many times he has people on staff that can take care of small problems easier and cheaper than rescheduling a sub.And finally, don't forget the vendors.  Lumber yards, home centers, lighting stores, plumbing supply houses etc. are used to dealing with pros who know what they're doing.  They might also be used to dealing with home owners who do not know as much so they're careful to ask more questions and provide more guidance.  However when the home owner is acting as a GC there is a tendency for the salesman to assume that the home owner knows as much about the products as a GC would and does not ask all the questions that he would have otherwise.  When misunderstandings lead to mistakes ill feelings and financial losses abound.Being your own GC on a job is like making your own wedding cake.  It might work, but sometimes there are people who can do it better... and for less cost in the end.

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Home Improvement

Larry Setzkorn

2002-11-01 15:38:00

: I have Formica kitchen cabinets. They are in excellent condition but I want to change the dark color. Can Formica be painted? If so what kind of paint product should I use?

ANSWER:  Anything can be painted, but because of potential health related problems, I would not recommend painting Formica. Paint could flake off when food is cut or prepared on the surface and bacteria could grow on the surface.I would recommend one of two things. Change out the counter top with new Formica material, or use marble, tile, solid surface material, etc. The second fix would be to cover the existing Formica with a color/style of your choice. To do this, sand down the existing Formica, breaking the glaze. Coat with contact cement per instructions provided and install the new Formica.The existing Formica must be firmly attached to the substrate to do this. Then the new Formica will have to be routed to fit.  It’s messy and dusty but it looks good when done.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2002-10-01 12:20:00

:  Our house is 23 years old. It is brick at the bottom and painted redwood at the top which now needs replacing due to time and weathering. I was thinking of using vinyl siding and trim until someone told me that most large homes use Masonite. I need to know which will look better and is the most cost efficient.

Art Bryan Question:  Our house is 23 years old. It is brick at the bottom and painted redwood at the top which now needs replacing due to time and weathering. I was thinking of using vinyl siding and trim until someone told me that most large homes use Masonite. I need to know which will look better and is the most cost efficient. Answer:  The best is Vinyl siding.  Even if it costs a little more at first, you'll save money in the long run.  Not having to paint your home over and over in the years to come will save you money.  And for a small extra cost your contractor can add Vinyl siding that has insulation built in.  This will help lower the cost of heating and cooling your home.Your home will have a nice finished look for many years to come.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2002-10-01 12:20:00

:  The maintenance man of our apartment building is always going into everyone's apartment when something needs to be fixed. There must be a hundred apartments, but he only carries one key around with him. How does he get into all those apartments with the same key?

Question:  The maintenance man of our apartment building is always going into everyone's apartment when something needs to be fixed. There must be a hundred apartments, but he only carries one key around with him. How does he get into all those apartments with the same key? Answer:  The key your maintenance man is using is called a master key. To understand how master keys work, you first have to have a basic idea of how locks and keys work. Although locks come in all shapes and sizes, with many innovative design variations, most locks are based on fairly similar concepts. The most common lock design is the cylinder lock. In this design, the key turns a cylinder, or plug, which turns an attached cam. When the plug is turned one way, the cam pulls in on the bolt and the door can open. When the plug turns the other way, the cam releases the bolt and a spring snaps it into place so the door cannot open. Inside a cylinder lock, there is a sort of puzzle, which only the correct key can solve. The main variation in lock designs is the nature of this puzzle. One of the most common puzzles is the pin-and-tumbler design. The main components in the pin-and-tumbler design are a series of small pins of varying length. The pins are divided up into pairs. Each pair rests in a shaft running through the central cylinder plug and into the housing around the plug. Springs at the top of the shafts keep the pin pairs in position in the plug. When no key is inserted, the bottom pin in each pair is completely inside the plug, while the upper pin is halfway in the plug and halfway in the housing. The position of the upper pins keeps the plug from turning -- the pins bind the plug to the housing. When you insert a key, the series of notches in the key push the pin pairs up to different levels. The incorrect key will push the pins so that most of the top pins are still partly in the plug and partly in the housing. The correct key will push each pin pair up just enough so that the point where the two pins come together lines up perfectly with the space where the cylinder and the housing come together -- this point is called the shear line. Some locks are designed to work with two different keys. The change key will open only that specific lock, while the master key will open that lock and several others in a group. In these locks, a few of the pin pairs are separated by a third pin. This third pin is called a master wafer or spacer. When three pins are combined in a shaft, there are two ways to position the pins so they open the lock. The change key might raise the pins so that the shear line is just above the top of the master wafer, while the master key might raise the pins so the shear line is at the bottom of the master wafer. In both cases, there is a gap at the shear line and the key is able to turn. In this lock design, the lowest pin is the same length in each lock in the group, but the master wafer varies in length. This lets the person with the master key access any lock in the group, while someone with a change key can open only his or her own lock.

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Home Improvement

Larry Setzkorn

2002-10-01 12:06:00

: What is the best way to clean kitchen cabinets?

Larry Setzkorn Question: What is the best way to clean kitchen cabinets? Answer:  Kitchen cabinets collect more grease, food spills, and moisture than most other parts of the house. Grime builds up fastest around handles of doors and drawers, which are constantly opened by sticky hands. Greasy soil comes off more easily if it isn't allowed to build up too long. Painted wood, metal, laminated plastic or wood-grain vinyl surfaces can be cleaned with detergent and warm water solution. Rinse with a cloth or sponge dampened in clean water. Using a dry cloth or paper towel to wipe the surface dry prevents streaking. Painted, plastic, and metal surfaces, may be cleaned occasionally with a creamy liquid wax which leaves a protective coating which retards soiling. If the finish is hard and in good condition, this extra step may not be needed. Most all-purpose household cleaners may also be used; read the label to be sure it can be used on that surface, and follow directions exactly. Test inside a door to be sure it will not harm the finish. NEVER use scouring powder or other abrasives on cabinets as they will damage the finish! On painted metal, or plastic surfaces, using an appropriate spray-on all-purpose household cleaner on stubborn sticky spots should remove them; rinse thoroughly afterward. On natural finished wood, with a heavy buildup of grease and grime, that will not come off with special wood cleaners, you may need to use a straight solvent such as paint thinner. This is highly flammable and toxic to breathe. BE SURE THERE ARE NO OPEN FLAMES OR PILOT LIGHTS OR SPARKS IN THE KITCHEN OR IN ROOMS AROUND THE KITCHEN, AND HAVE OPEN WINDOWS FOR GOOD VENTILATION. REMOVING DOORS AND DRAWERS AND WORKING OUTDOORS, WITH NO FLAMES OR SPARKS NEARBY, MAY BE A GOOD ALTERNATIVE. Some wood cabinet cleaners contain waxes which leave a shine or medium luster on the surface, and protect the wood. If the wood finish seems dull after cleaning, you may want to apply a solvent-based wood wax, which may or may not require buffing to create a luster. Natural finished wood cabinets may be cleaned with a variety of commercial products, usually sprays, made for this purpose. Read the label to be sure it can be used on the finish, and follow directions exactly. These have a solvent base, so read and follow carefully cautions about ventilation, and make sure there is no spark or flame or pilot light burning in the area that could cause a fire. Dispose of cloths used in a tightly sealed container, again not near a spark or flame. Test inside a door to be sure the cleaner will not harm the finish before starting on other surfaces; they can damage some. Be careful with overspray, they can make a floor slippery. Always test on the inside of a door to be sure it will not harm the finish. Dampen a cloth with the thinner-solvent and rub vigorously on the cabinets. Refold the cloth as it picks up dirt, and change to clean cloths when needed, storing used cloths in a closed metal or glass container for disposal. If after this heavy cleaning, the finish looks dull, apply furniture wax or polish, following the label directions, and buff. If, after cleaning, the finish looks too bad, they may need refinishing. 

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Home Improvement

Keith Bomholt

2002-10-01 12:06:00

:  Are there safety rules for garage doors and openers?  Who made the rules? What do they consist of?

Keith Bomholt Question:  Are there safety rules for garage doors and openers?  Who made the rules? What do they consist of?Answer:  Safety rules for garage doors and openers are everyone’s business. An improperly adjusted garage door or automatic opener can exert deadly force when the door closes and may cause serious injury or even death.Garage doors and garage door openers are built according to industry standards. The safety rules (other than industry standards) are developed by the Consumer Product Safety Commission. This federal agency develops all safety rules for consumer products. You can look up the rules for garage door openers at their website . . . www.cpsc.gov/about. ANSI/UL standard 325-1982 calls for a number of safety features not found on earlier openers, and also subjects new openers to more stringent safety tests.Garage door openers manufactured prior to 1982 may have a device intended to reverse the closing door when it strikes an object, but for reasons related to age, installation or maintenance, these products may not be safe enough to prevent the entrapment of a child. Proper installation, operation and maintenance, and testing of the garage door and automatic opener are necessary to provide safe, trouble-free operation.  The CPSC requires that all garage door openers manufactured in the United States or imported after January 1, 1993, for sale in the U.S. be outfitted with an external entrapment protection system. This system can be an electric eye, a door edge sensor, or any other device that provides equivalent protection, reversing when hitting a one inch obstruction in their path. They are required to not only have the reversing feature, but must also be manufactured with photo eyes.According to industry experts, garage doors with remote controlled openers should periodically be checked to make sure they are working properly. The garage door is usually the largest moving object in most homes. Due to the springs, cables and other hardware being under extreme tension, only a qualified professional should adjust your garage door.For more information about garage door and garage door opener safety, log onto http://www.cheneydoor.com/ and click on “Doors” under “Products.” Then click on the icon for IDA (International Door Association).

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2002-09-01 09:27:00

:  Why are ventilators important in the attic? How much good do they actually do? Should you install them if your home is older? How many do you need?

Question:  Why are ventilators important in the attic? How much good do they actually do? Should you install them if your home is older? How many do you need?Answers:  Ventilation of the home attic is important for two reasons. During the summer, excess heat that builds up in the attic during the day results in high energy costs for cooling. Also, moisture produced within the home may move into the attic if ceiling vapor barriers are not used. If this moisture is not exhausted from the attic it can condense and cause insulation and construction materials to deteriorate. Thus, temperature and moisture control are the major reasons for providing attic ventilation. How much attic ventilation is required to provide proper temperature and moisture control? A number of studies sponsored by federal energy funds are under way to look at ventilation rates and methods. However, several studies previously made can help with this decision. The maximum ventilation rate is required to remove heat during the summer cooling months. Attics can reach temperatures of 150 to 160 degrees F during a summer day, although outside air temperatures are only 95 to 97 degrees F. The cooling load for a home air conditioner depends on the difference in temperature between the inside and outside air, and reduction of attic temperatures from 155 degrees to 105 degrees F will result in a significant reduction in cooling load. In a home with poor ceiling insulation, heat movement through ceilings may account for 30 percent or more of the total cooling cost. With a well-insulated ceiling, this source of heat may account for only 12 to 15 percent of the total cooling cost. Thus, high attic ventilation rates are most important for poorly insulated ceilings. A poorly insulated ceiling is one whose R rating is less than 14 or one with fewer than 4 inches of fiberglass, rockwool or cellulose insulation. Attic temperature depends on the amount of solar radiation, construction details and the rate of ventilation. Calculations indicate that on a July day in Texas, a ventilation rate of one air change per minute for a typical attic using 95-degree F air will lower the peak attic temperature to about 101 degrees F. Providing half air change per minute will lower the temperature to about 106 degrees F. Thus, the first half change per minute is most effective and a doubling of this rate only achieves about 5 degrees F additional cooling. Studies indicate that further increases in ventilation are not effective in significantly reducing attic temperatures. Winter attic ventilation must be sufficient to remove moisture vapor moving from the living space to the attic. In general, ventilation adequate for summer cooling is more than adequate for winter ventilation. Winter rates need not be more than about a tenth of the summer rate. Calculate the required summer ventilation rate by determining the volume of attic space and dividing by 2. This will be the cfm (cubic feet per minute) of ventilation air needed. The volume is determined approximately for a rectangular house by multiplying the height from the ceiling to the peak/ridge (H) times the width of the house (W) times the length (L) and dividing by 2 -- ( H x W x L / 2 ). Remember if you only want to provide one half change per minute, divide the above volume by two.  (you divide by 2 twice in this scenario, once to get the volume and again to cut it in half.)  For a gable roof, this will be reasonably accurate. For a hip roof house, the volume will be overestimated but adequate. Another good way to determine required ventilation is to consult the building code.  The Wichita code states that "the net free ventilating area shall not be less than 1/150 the area of the space ventilated.  There are two exceptions. (1.) The area may be 1/300 of the area of the space ventilated provided 50% of the required area is provided be ventilators located in the upper portion of the space to be ventilated at least 3 ft above the eave or cornice vents with the balance of the required ventilation provide by the eave or cornice vents.  (2.) The area may be 1/300 of the area of the space ventilated provided a vapor retarder having a transmission rate not exceeding 1 perm is installed on the warm side of the attic.On homes with gable ends, I like to use triangular vents which are installed as high as you can get them.  On hipped roofs, I like to provide at least half the required ventilation in the form of roof vents placed high on the roof and the remainder provided by soffit vents.  The Gable ends make use of the Kansas winds and the combination of roof vents and soffit vents causes convection currents to help do the job.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2002-09-01 09:27:00

:  My kitchen designer had CKD after his name, what does that mean?

Art Bryan Question:  My kitchen designer had CKD after his name, what does that mean?Answer:  CKD stands for Certified Kitchen Designer. It is a designation issued by the National Kitchen and Bath Association ( NKBA) for designers who have met the design experience criteria and have passed the CKD exam.It is a pretty involved process and requires a lot of commitment and hard work to attain. A designer must first have a minimum of seven years full-time (35 hours a week) professional experience with at least three of those seven years in full-time kitchen or bathroom design. This experience must then be approved by NKBA before the designer can sit for the exam. Once the CKD exam is passed, a CKD certification is issued, but that doesn’t end it… the designer must also earn a number of continuing education “points” each year by attending seminars, and other classes approved by NKBA to keep their CKD certification current. Sometimes these classes are put on by the local NKBA chapter and sometimes the designer has to research on their own to find classes the NKBA will approve for this continuing education requirement.  Like any profession, training, experience and education go a long ways towards the best in customer satisfaction.  A CKD certification is an achievement to be proud of by the person who has earned it, and a much sought after designation by the customer. 

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2002-08-01 10:47:00

: During a recent windy day my front door was blown open and drove the door handle into the plaster wall. I've tried patching the hole but the spackle won't stick to the wall and falls out. Any tips?"

Question: During a recent windy day my front door was blown open and drove the door handle into the plaster wall. I've tried patching the hole but the spackle won't stick to the wall and falls out. Any tips?"Answer: There is no reason to wail over your "holy" wall. Lots of patience and a little practice will get you through it.The "spackle" you referred to is known as spackling compound. It's great for small holes like those created from an old picture hanger, but not very good with larger openings. I suspect the spackling compound will not adhere because the wall is most likely drywall and not old-fashioned plaster. Drywall is simply a sandwich of paper and gypsum. The gypsum is a crumbly, chalk-like substance. As you apply spackle to the hole, it simply falls out along with the loose drywall. To properly repair larger holes, you will need to visit your local home improvement store. Your shopping list should include a small bucket of topping compound, a sheet of fine-grit sandpaper, an eight-inch drywall taping knife, and a drywall patch large enough to cover the hole. A drywall patch is a mesh, made of either metal or plastic, with an adhesive backing that is applied directly to the wall covering the hole. With the patch in place, the next step is to stir the topping compound into a mayonnaise-like consistency. This eliminates air and provides for a smoother finish. Armed with your new taping knife, apply compound to the patch and in an area about a foot all around the hole. Be sure to completely embed the patch and make the edges thinner than the middle. This takes a bit of practice. The idea is to take the entire height of the patch and distribute it over a greater area making it much less noticeable. Keep the layer thin to reduce sanding. Clean all of your tools in warm water when you are finished. With your first layer dried, sand the entire area smooth. You probably will not be happy with the results of the first coat. This is normal. Repeat the procedure again, with an eye toward "feathering" the edges for a seamless look. Again, clean your tools and sand when dried. You may need to apply three or four layers to get the desire effect. And don't forget a primer must be used on the raw patch before painting.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2002-08-01 10:34:00

:  My contractor said he is licensed, bonded, and insured. What exactly does that mean?

Art Bryan Question:  My contractor said he is licensed, bonded, and insured. What exactly does that mean?Answer:  First, here are the different licenses available through the City of Wichita: Class A General; Class B Building (commercial); Class C Residential; Class D Residential Maintenance; Roofing and Siding; Solar Heater Installer;  Fire Sprinkler Installer; Swimming Pool; and Wrecking.  Your contractor must hold one or more of these licenses in order to perform the specified work.  Additionally, most of the incorporated cities around Wichita require contractors to be licensed in each of their cities (i.e.  Derby, Newton, Haysville, Andover, etc..), as well as in the County.Second, bonded. This usually means that a contractor has purchased a "Surety Bond" from his insurance company. In the event a contractor fails to complete the work, the insurance company will pay up to "the surety bond amount" to have work completed. Third, and very important, is 'insured'.  What kind of insurance? Maybe the contractor has his truck insured, and he says he is insured.  Technically, he is right to say "insured".  A contractor should have liability insurance in excess of $1 Million dollars. This would protect you in case, maybe, your house burns down as a result of the contractors negligence. The other form of insurance he must have is Worker's Compensation Insurance. This protects you in the event one of the contractor’s workers gets injured on the job. If no Workers Comp Insurance is carried, and one of the contractor’s employees falls off your roof, your Homeowners Policy could be responsible to pay. GET BOTH OF THESE 'PROOF OF INSURANCES' BEFORE YOU SIGN A CONTRACT!

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Home Improvement

Keith Bomholt

2002-08-01 09:52:00

Question:  How easy is it to steal codes and open garage doors? Is there any protection against it?

Answer:  This is an excellent question and one that concerns the safety and security of your home. Codes of older garage door openers can be stolen, because the openers are programmed to operate with a single code. There is a story about a sophisticated robber in California who sat at the end of a block with a code-grabbing device, watching as people opened their garage doors and left for work. Then he went to work stealing their valuables.Fortunately, the new technology of rolling codes can prevent this from happening to you. With each activation of the garage door opener, a new code is selected from over 100 billion codes, and it is never repeated.This technology prevents would-be intruders with code-grabbing devices from gaining entry to a home.The new remote controls can operate one, two, or three garage doors, as well as turn garage opener lights on and off. The remotes are small enough to carry on a key chain.Another option for protecting your home is the wireless, keyless entry pad, which you control with a private 4-digit code. The keypad fits on the side of the garage door and is covered to protect it from the weather. There is no wiring, and it is illuminated for night use. Also available is a motion-detecting control panel. It sees you coming and turns garage door opener lights on automatically as you enter the garage.By using one of these new technologies, you can be assured that once your garage door goes down, it is securely locked and an intruder cannot gain entry.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2002-06-01 15:05:00

Question:  Our house is 40 years old. Some of the wiring is copper and some of it is aluminum. I would like to replace it and do the job myself. Can I and then get an inspector to approve it? What will I need?

Answer: In most places, homeowners are allowed to do their own wiring. In some, they're not. Check with your local electrical inspector. Most places won't permit you to do wiring on other's homes for money without a license. Nor are you permitted to do wiring in "commercial" buildings. Multiple dwellings (i.e. duplexes) are usually considered "semi-commercial" or "commercial". However, many jurisdictions will permit you to work on semi-commercial wiring if you're supervised by a licensed electrician - if you can find one willing to supervise.If you do your own wiring, an important point:Do it NEAT and WELL! What you really want to aim for is a better job than an electrician will do. After all, it's your own home, and it's you or your family that might get killed if you make a mistake. An electrician has time pressures, has the skills and knows the tricks of the trade to do a fast, safe job.Below are a few recommendations that are in excess of code, because we feel that it's reasonable, and will impress the inspector.The inspector will know that you're an amateur. You have to earn his trust. The best way of doing this is to spend your time doing as neat a job as possible. Don't cut corners.  Exceed specifications. Otherwise, the inspector may get extremely picky and fault you on the slightest transgressions.Don't try to hide anything from the inspector.Use the proper tools (i.e. don't use a bread knife to strip wires, or twist wires with your fingers. The inspector won't like it, and the results won't be that safe.  It takes longer, and you're more likely to stick a hunk of 12 gauge wire through your hand that way).Don't handle house wire when it's very cold (i.e. below -10C or 16F). Thermoplastic house wire, particularly older types become very brittle.In regards to tools:First, there's the obvious -- a hammer, a drill, a few screwdrivers, both straight and Phillips-head. For drilling a few holes, a 3/4" or 1" spade bit and 1/4" or 3/8" electric drill will do. If you're doing a lot, or are working with elderly lumber, we recommend  a 1/2" drill (right-angle drills are wonderful and can be rented) and 3/4" or 1" screw-point auger drill bits. These bits pull you through, so they're much faster and less fatiguing, even in 90 year old hardwood timbers.Screw-driver bits are useful for drills, especially if you install your electrical boxes using screws (drywall screws work well).For stripping wire, use a real wire stripper, not a knife or ordinary wire cutters. Don't buy the $3 "combo stripper, crimper and bottle opener" types. You should expect to pay $15 to $20 for a good "plier-type" pair. It will have sized stripping holes, and won't nick or grab the wire - it should be easy to strip wire with it. One model has a small hole in the blade for forming exact wire loops for screw terminals. There are fancier types (autostrip/cut), but they generally aren't necessary, and pros usually don't use them.A pair of diagonal side cutter pliers are useful for clipping ends in constricted places. Don't use these for stripping wire. You will need linesman pliers for twisting wires for wire connectors.You should have a pair of needle-nose pliers for fiddling inside boxes and closing loops, but it's better to form wire loops with a "loop former hole" on your wire stripper - more accurate.If you're using non-metallic cable, get a cable stripper for removing the sheath. Or, do what some pros do, they nick the end of the sheath, grab the ground wire with a pair of pliers, and simply rip the sheath back using the ground wire as a "zipper", and cut the sheath off. You shouldn't try to strip the sheath with a knife point, because it's too easy to slash the insulation on the conductors. For any substantial amount of work with armored cable, it's well worth your while to invest in a rotary cable splitter (usually around  $20). Hack saws are tricky to use without cutting into the wire or the insulation.Three-prong outlet testers are a quick check for properly-wired outlets. About $6. Multimeters tell you more, but are a lot more expensive, and probably not worth it for most people. A simple voltage sensor, which can detect potential through an insulated wire not supplying any devices, is extremely helpful; they cost about $10.You should have a voltage detector - to check that the wires are dead before doing work on them. Neon-bulb versions are inexpensive  ($2-3) and work well. If you get more serious, a "audible alarm" type is good for tracing circuits without a helper. For running wires through existing walls, you need fish tape. Often, two tapes are needed, though sometimes, a bent hanger or a length of thin chain will suffice. Fish tapes can be rented.Electrical tape. But remember, a good and competent wiring job will need very little tape. The tape is useful for wrapping dicey insulation in repair work. Another use is to wrap around the body of outlets and switches to cover the termination screws. I don't do this, but drywall contractors prefer it (to prevent explosions when the drywall knife collides with a live outlet that has no cover plate).

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2002-06-01 14:07:00

Question:  Trees sometimes grow to be hundreds of years old.  Why does wood need protection from weather?  What causes wood to turn gray and is this harmful to wood?  Is all wood susceptible to weather damage, ultraviolet rays and fungal attack?  Does new lumber need to be cleaned before staining?  How do you select a wood stain?

Answer:  Without protection water is drawn into wood. This causes wood to swell and expand.  As it dries out it shrinks and contracts. After many cycles of expansion and contraction, stress cracks and checks begin to appear. Over time these cracks will become larger and deeper. Water is able to penetrate deep into these cracks carrying fungi and wood rotting microorganisms that eventually destroy wood.Answer: All wood will turn gray as ultraviolet radiation causes cellular damage on the surface of wood. If these damaged wood cells are not removed they become a food source for microfungi. As the fungal growth progresses, the wood becomes darker and eventually begins to rot.Answer: Types of wood, part of tree wood is from, and age of tree, all affect the weathering of wood. A rule of thumb is that the older the tree and the closer the wood to the center of the tree, the more weather resistant. Older wood and heartwood are more difficult to treat with a wood finish because their grain patterns don't allow penetration. When dealing with older trees, heartwood, or certain types of cedar, the surface of the wood should be "roughed up" to help penetration of the stain.Answer:  New lumber must be cleaned using the same method recommended for aged lumber. Mill glaze, which results from the processing of lumber, will effectively block wood pores and reduce penetration, causing the stain to fail. Answer:  There are two basic types of wood stains: film formers and penetrants. Film forming coatings bond to a wood surface much like paint. They rely on a non-porous film to keep moisture out. Over time internal moisture trapped by the film, external weather conditions and fungal attack blisters and/or weaken the film. The lack of breathability is a major cause of product failure. Once film-forming products start to peel they must be completely removed, usually with caustic strippers, before reapplication. Penetrants soak into wood, block pores, and prevent water or other impurities from entering wood cells. Unlike film farmers, penetrants allow moisture in the form of water vapor, to pass through the wood. When properly applied, penetrants will not peel.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2002-05-01 15:03:00

:  What is a 'HERS' rating insofar as it relates to the energy efficiency of a home? Who are energy raters? Are they independent? What is an acceptable score?

Question:  What is a 'HERS' rating insofar as it relates to the energy efficiency of a home? Who are energy raters? Are they independent? What is an acceptable score?Answer:  "HERS" stands for "Home Energy Rating System."  A trained expert compares your house with a hypothetical exact duplicate of your home in the same area, with the same environment but with optimum energy efficient construction.  The rating then is a comparison of your home with the model and the percentage is expressed as a "HERS" rating.  In other words, if your home is "perfect" your HERS rating would be 100.       Scores of 80 or above are good, 70 to 80 is typical and ratings of below 60 earn your home the title of "Energy Hog."     Your expert should be certified by the state Chapter of the Residential Energy Services Network.  In Kansas that would be the Energy and Environmental Ratings Alliance with headquarters in Manhattan KS.     The rater inspects the home and measures its energy characteristics such as insulation, window efficiency, wall-to-window ratio, heating and cooling system, water heater and the solar orientation of the home.     The "HERS" system was developed for the mortgage industry  They use the rating not only to help value the home but also to determine the buyer's ability to pay(lower utilities leaves more money to pay the mortgage).       Today the ratings are used by consumers, builders(for marketing) real estate agents, appraisers public housing authorities, utilities as well as lending institutions.     Consumers of course use the rating to make purchasing  decisions but also can use the system to determine what to do to get the most bang for the buck on home improvements.     The "HERS" system sounds like a great deal for everyone but right now it's not being used very much.   I know of only one "rater" in Wichita and he does very little for  the mortgage companies, realtors or home builders.  Most of his work is for companies that need to comply with certain specifications connected with government programs.  Perhaps when the cost of energy gets high enough we'll all start paying more attention to the "HERS" rating system.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2002-05-01 15:03:00

Question:  We have been considering building a deck.  In a recent issue of Home Remodeler, I read about a new kind of plastic wood for outdoor decks.  Is this for real?

Answer:  Plastic wood… these two words, until very recently, were not used in the same sentence unless you were talking about some sort of wood filler for nail holes. If you told an old carpenter that you're going to be building a plastic deck, you'd probably be laughed out of the shop. However, as the old saying goes, "times are a changing".Concerns about our environment and the effects of thousands of tons of plastic ending up in disposal sites daily have increased our awareness of this growing problem. Companies, as well as the scientific community, are looking for ways to turn this waste into a re-usable resource. Canadian Plastic Lumber (CPL) is one of those companies who use waste plastic to manufacture a product called PLASBOARD, one of the many new "alternative to wood" building products that are helping to combat this potential environmental nightmare. CPL reported that they will " turn over 2,000,000 pounds of post consumer plastic waste into plastic lumber this year.     As a renovation and kitchen cabinetmaking contractor I'm always on the lookout for leading edge products.   Whether or not Plasboard is one of them is yet to be seen.  Recently, products such as the new wood "I" beams, house wrap materials, energy efficient widows, and innovations in kitchen cabinetmaking hardware have had an effect on how we build and design. Decking, up until a few years ago, meant using traditional wood products such as cedar, redwood or pressure treated spruce. Today more and more companies are investigating alternative products for decks, fences, and other outdoor structures. CPL believes a natural fit is all the waste plastic that we discard. The problem is how to manufacture "wood" like material that is easy to use and cost effective to manufacture. More importantly of course, is the problem of consumer acceptance of a material that will replace wood.     Plasboard, according to the manufacturer's data sheet, is durable, maintenance-free, comes in a variety of colors, is guaranteed not to rot, and is skid resistant especially when wet. The product comes in gray, green, and brown presently.  You will however find quite a variance in each color selection.      One of the major concerns with plastic lumber is the expansion and contraction properties. Because of this, a "floating" structure has to be built on a fixed structure. The expansion and contraction rate is stated as "3% times the length of the product if temperature variations of 50 degrees centigrade are likely". Using the manufacturer's formula, and given our weather conditions, the maximum expansion and contraction of an eight foot board would be .29 inches or a little better than one quarter of an inch. Therefore a twelve foot wide deck could expand and contract about three eighths of an inch from the heat of summer to the cold of winter.     Plasboard, like wood, is available in many sizes suitable for deck construction. This product can be treated like wood in many ways. You can cut it (use carbide tipped blades for best results) and drill it, but it cannot be used as a structural member. You must build your deck structure with traditional wood products.  There are other special considerations when building with plastic lumber. Most important is the fact that the expansion and contraction factor has to be accounted for, particularly with deck boards. The structure supporting the deck boards must be built independent of the fixed structure. In effect, you must build a "floating structure" on the fixed supports that are anchored to the house and piers.     Currently, Plasboard 1" x 6" boards are only available in eight and ten foot lengths.        Building practices that many take for granted must be reviewed because of the differences and oddities of this new plastic lumber. For one thing, joists must be in a perfect plane with each other. It is important in conventional lumber deck building, but critical with plastic lumber deck building. Lumber, particularly 2 x 6's will push down or lift up on the odd joist that is slightly out of plane with the others. Plasboard, because of its flexibility, will simply ride up and down across the joists and you end up with a "wavy" deck surface.      There are a few other oddities with plastic lumber that you should be aware of before building. When installing screws you must pre-drill and countersink to prevent the plastic from "puckering up". Voids in the lumber, particularly the 2 x 2's and 3 x 3's, caused by air pockets during the extrusion process will not allow you to angle cut the balusters, if you like that look, for the deck railing. Plasboard, as well as most other plastic lumber, is not structural therefore railings may not meet the building code for decks a certain height above ground level.  You always want to be sure what you do is to code.     To secure the deck boards, you could use an air nailer with three inch, epoxy coated, galvanized nails; or driving three-inch galvanized nails with a hammer will work just as well.  You can also screw the deck boards down as an alternative however, it would take you a while to complete this method as each hole must be pre-drilled. Be prepared for a pretty good strike with the hammer and punch to set the nails below the deck board surface.  One good note is that the gap between the boards will not change, as plastic lumber does not suffer from moisture loss and shrinkage.     How does this product compare with traditional wood like cedar or pressure treated lumber? The cost, including railing and stairs, is approximately $7.20 per square foot.   It's higher than pressure treated lumber but certainly comparable with cedar. Subtract the cost of finishing and you've got a competitive building product option. I have heard however, that a 15 to 20% increase in the cost of Plasboard is on the horizon. This means that the cost would rise to about $8.00 per square foot.  Remember that the costs given are for materials only.  Labor costs will have to be added if you plan to have someone build your deck.      There are a few disadvantages that must be accounted for when deciding if this material is right for your deck. Product length is a maximum ten feet, air pockets and voids may force you to alter your design, color consistency from board to board varies somewhat, and streaking caused by poor mixing of some types of plastic must be considered. However, when you weigh the disadvantages against the fact that you end up with a maintenance- free deck that never needs painting and will not rot, Plasboard could be a good alternative.      Being a traditional remodeler, I think we might still be quite a ways away from using products like Plasboard on a wide scale.

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Home Improvement

Wess Galyon

2002-05-01 08:53:00

:  It's that time of year again... the Home Show.  What's new this year and what will we see at the Show?

ANSWER:  The Wichita Area Builders Association (WABA) kicks off its annual Home Show event on Thursday, February 6, 2003, at Century II Convention Center. Home Show 2003 is the 49th show for WABA, and will feature over 250 different booths representing a wide variety of interior and exterior home products and services. Once again a "sell out" event, exhibits will represent home products and services for virtually every aspect of a home, from floors to ceilings, interiors and exteriors including outdoor living, decorating and improving, constructing and remodeling and more.The Home Show is an excellent one-stop-shop for a lot of different companies that are in the business of home products and services. Exhibitors will showcase their newest products during the Show. Consumers attending the Show can compare products and conduct research right at the Show without feeling pressured.The primary objective of the Wichita Area Builders Association is to work toward providing quality, affordable housing and homeownership for the greatest number of people possible. The Association strives to promote a better understanding between the industry and the general public in regard to housing issues and acts as a liaison between the building industry and all levels of government whose actions impact efforts to maintain housing affordability.Homeownership strengthens the social fabric of the nation.  By encouraging civic participation and involvement in schools and communities and inspiring the upkeep and improvement of the home, homeownership fosters good citizenship.The Home Show opens February 6 and runs through February 9, 2003 at Century II Convention Center.  Check the ad in this publication for hours and admission costs.  Remember, there is free parking and shuttle bus service from Lawrence Dumont Stadium.   Whether you're considering building, remodeling or redecorating, Home Show 2003 is the place to be.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2002-05-01 08:53:00

:  What is the best way to get an honest answer to the question:  How much do you charge?

ANSWER:  Everyone in the service business cringes a little when people call and ask, "How much do you charge?" No, it's not because we charge too much. It's because, deep down, we know we cannot completely answer the question. Most service firms will quote an hourly rate over the phone, but does that really tell you anything? What any homeowner really wants to know is, "How much will it cost me to fix my problem or provide me with what I want?" To answer that question, any legitimate company needs to know: 1) the exact nature of the problem, which cannot be described with certainty over the phone, and 2) how long it will take to fix it. Quoting an hourly rate might seem to provide a rough estimate. Yet how often have you seen home repair jobs drag on for hour after hour with "the meter running"? Too many variables come into play, including the exact nature of the problem and the skill of the service personnel we will send to your home. Some are more experienced than others are and work faster. With this in mind, I would like to suggest some other questions that you as homeowners might wish to ask of the people you call for home repair and/or remodeling? Can you guarantee a maximum price to do the job? Expect to hear a lot of stuttering and stammering with this one. Some contractors will laugh out loud. However, there are a few progressive contractors out there who do quote exact prices, guaranteed, once they perform a diagnosis. Usually they charge a modest up-front fee for the diagnosis, though many waive the charge if they get the job. Nonetheless, it does remove the guesswork. Do you charge for time driving to and from a supply house? Some jobs might require only 15 minutes of labor to perform, but you'll see the service technician disappear for an hour or more to go pick up parts not stocked in the truck. Supply houses are some of the favorite hangouts of many service techs. Many serve free coffee and snacks to their customers, and it's a great place to catch up on the latest industry gossip. Who will be doing the work? Sometimes it will be a master mechanic with many years of experience. At other times, though, it could be a youngster with less than a year under his belt - maybe even an apprentice filling in during an absence. Who does the work has a lot to do with how much you end up paying when rates are quoted on an hourly basis. If the problem persists or reappears after your mechanic leaves, will you come back to fix it at no extra charge - immediately? Most companies will answer yes to this question, but watch out. Most labor guarantees extend only a month, which is not very long when you think about it. Also, callbacks tend to be the lowest priority when service firms get busy. Can you show me proof of a license and insurance, both general liability and worker compensation? This is a big one. Most people don't realize that if an uninsured worker gets injured while working in a home, the homeowner can be held financially responsible. On the flip side, in some states where licensing is required, a homeowner is not obligated to pay for any work done by an unlicensed contractor. What time will you show up? Most service companies can't pinpoint their time of arrival closer than "morning or afternoon." This can get expensive if the homeowner has to take off a full or half-day of work. Progressive service companies can many times pinpoint within an hour or two when their service technician will be at the door. If he or she does get delayed, these companies will call with an updated time of arrival. Another useful gauge of a service firm's value is if there is even anybody available to answer these questions. Many contractors try to do business using answering machines, promising to return calls at some undetermined time. This isn't much help to someone who needs an emergency repair right now. Also, how many of you have had this experience - you call one contractor and leave a message on an answering machine. Then you call someone else to do the work that is available now. A day or two later, the contractor with an answering machine calls you back. You inform him that you had someone else do the job. Then he asks, "How much did he charge?" You tell him, and then the guy says, "You got ripped off. I would have done the job for half that price!" Reminds me of the old story about the customer who goes into a store to buy a toaster. The owner rings up a $25 sale. “That's outrageous!" the customer complains. "A store down the street sells the same toaster for $15." "Well, why didn't you buy it there?" asked the owner. "Because they're out of toasters." "Heck," replied the owner, "when we run out of toasters, we only charge $10." Let the buyer beware.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2002-04-01 16:17:00

Question:  I am having problems with light bulbs burning out in a matter of weeks in various parts of my home. I have had the electric company and an electrician check out our power and nothing seems to be wrong, but the bulbs continue to turn out. What could be causing this?

Answer:  You've asked a tough question.  The electric company and an electrician have already baled on you.  I have a couple of guesses.  The first one is that you do have voltage spikes but they do not occur when the electric company or your electrician are at your home.  There are special instruments made for monitoring voltage and recording any abnormalities but they are expensive, not everyone has them and those that do are reluctant to leave them at anyone's house.  If the bulbs are burning out in some parts of your house but not in others that tells me that the problem is not in the service to your home.My other guess is that in some parts of your home, the lights receive more vibration than others.  For example the basement ceiling or any ceiling where people walk above.  In areas like this or in areas where there are severe temperature changes such as a garage, we recommend "rough service" bulbs.Sometimes using too high wattage bulbs in a confined area can cause the bulbs to get too hot.  Besides being dangerous this excess heat can shorten the life of the bulb.You also might want to try fluorescent bulbs.  They cost more but use less electricity and last a lot longer.  They also do not have any filament to burn out.   Extremely cold environments can cause some fluorescent bulbs to not work well.Good luck on finding a solution to your problem.  When you do I'd like to hear what is was.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2002-04-01 14:37:00

Question: There are so many different fabrics in carpeting. What is the difference insofar as wear and durability

Answer:  This is a good question and one that many folks have... and even more should... before buying carpeting for their home.  I will do my best to explain.Nylon:   Nylon is the most widely used synthetic fiber in manufacturing broadloom carpet today. The advantage of nylon over other fibers used in making carpet is its ability to bounce back after heavy use and its resistance to abrasion. Even though nylon has good stain resistance it needs to be treated for additional stain resistance. It is very good in accepting dyestuffs making the range of color virtually limitless. Polyester:   Polyester is reasonably durable, though it is not in nylon's class for resiliency. Polyester is easily cleaned although it is somewhat more susceptible to oil-based stains. This fiber is most commonly used in cut pile carpets. Because it tends to "pack down" easier than nylon the level of the yarn twist and the density of the pile are crucial. Polypropylene:   Polypropylene is moisture resistant making it inherently more stain resistant than other synthetic fibers. Polypropylene has no memory and tends to "pack down" more so than any other fiber. Polypropylene is generally used in low pile level-loop commercial carpeting where maintenance is top priority. Polypropylene is also widely used in looped Berbers where the pile height is generally low in profile. Polypropylene is often blended with nylon to help give it more resiliency while taking advantage of its ability to resist stains. Wool:   Wool is an extremely durable fiber although wool typically does not clean as easy as the synthetics. Wool does not melt so it is resistant to cigarette burns. Wool, being a natural fiber, tends to be expensive. Wool carpets are available in fewer shades since it doesn't take bright color dyes as well as the synthetics. Cotton:   Cotton is rarely used in carpet today. Although cotton it is reasonably durable it is extremely absorptive. This trait makes it easy to stain. It works better in bath towels than it does in carpeting. 

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2002-04-01 12:14:00

Question:  We have an older home.  We have always wanted a larger kitchen but don't have any idea where to begin.  Is there anything we can do prior to contacting a remodeler that will help us get what we want?

Answer:  Sometimes remodeling a kitchen, particularly when you're wanting more space, may seem like an impossible task... but it is not.  You will find it's like most things you're getting ready to do... plan your work then work your plan.   Here are some thoughts on getting started: First - get these items. You will need them:•  file folder - multi pocket type (for organizing ideas, magazine cut-outs,•  photos, etc. that you might like to incorporate into your new kitchen)•  graph paper - for sketching your kitchen layout ideas (you don't need to be an experienced draftsperson)•  measuring tape (25' recommended but most any kind will do)•  notebook (the kind with several subject sections is the best)Then think about answers to the following questions in 13 very important areas.  Write down the questions and your answers. Keep it in your file for later reference. You and your kitchen designer will need to address some or all of these while designing your new kitchen. 1.  What is my primary objective? Such as - Do I want a new look, more storage, more counter space, upgrade for resale, etc.? 2.  What do I like about my present kitchen? This is very important. You may want to keep certain features in your new kitchen. Don't give up what works. 3.  What features of my present kitchen do I most want to change? Such as... I don't like my current cabinet style, countertops, appliances, floor, lighting, etc. 4.  What is my budget for this project? You need to "qualify" yourself and when you can reasonably expect to complete a kitchen remodel. Kitchen remodeling is one of the best investments you can make in your home! It is possible to get nearly 100 % return on your kitchen remodeling investment.5.  Can I or do I want to do part of the work?6.  What are the most important functions of my kitchen? It may simply be such things as cooking, family dining, etc. But it may also include homework, budget planning, entertaining, watching TV.7.  When do I want to have my remodeling project completed? You need to allow a minimum of 2 to 4 months and probably more realistic, 4 to 6 months. Most custom cabinets take up to two months to arrive after ordering. This does not mean your home will be "torn up" all this time, but it allows plenty of time for planning, order processing, shipping, demolition, installation, moving back into your kitchen and re-organization. 8.  What kinds of things will I need to make room for in my new design? You might include a toaster, food processor, blender, coffee maker, everyday dishes, china, bulk groceries, cookbooks, trays, etc.9.  What other special accommodations might I want in the new kitchen... things such as a desk/computer/printer space, eating bar, washer/dryer, baking center, hobby or craft area, etc.?10.  Will I need to upgrade existing electrical or plumbing? The answer here may depend on whether you change the layout of your sink, cooktop or oven. But it also may depend on the requirements of the local building          codes for remodeling.11.  Who will be the primary user? Is this person left or right handed, very tall or short, does this person have any special needs? 12.  Who else will be using the kitchen? For example, will this become a "two cook" kitchen. 13.  Do I want double or single ovens? Two Dishwashers? Two Sinks ? Will children be using the kitchen and what are their ages? Answering these questions are an important first step in remodeling your kitchen. Don't overlook them.  The more detailed you can be with your answers, the easier it will be to develop a design that will make you happy and will serve your family for many years to come.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2002-03-01 17:14:00

Question:  We have a great room with open beams, and a big fireplace at one end. Over the top of the fireplace we have a mantle. We would like to have some sort of track lighting focus on the mantle. I read that there are such things as track lighting, recessed lighting, pendant lighting, accent lighting, display lighting, transformers, dimmers, and Halogen and Xenon light bulbs that can work. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each? Is this going to be an expensive ordeal?

Answer:  I believe you are on the right track.  No pun intended.  Lighting can set the mood of a room and show off the main focal points.  It sounds like your fireplace with its mantle is very much the focal point of the room and the right kind of light can certainly set it off.The first three topics refer to how the lighting is mounted.Track lighting consists of an aluminum track that is fastened to the ceiling, wall, beam or any other substantial structure.  The individual lights are mounted on the track and can be moved around to focus the light exactly where you want it.  The lights usually are made to swivel as well as slide on the track.Recessed lighting, sometimes referred to as canned lighting is mounted inside the ceiling and shines more or less straight down. Another form of recessed lighting is the so called "eye ball" fixture where the light can be swiveled around to make it shine right where you want it,.Pendant lighting hangs down from a cord or chain and depending on the light fixture itself can shine down or all around the room.Accent lighting is lighting that shines on an object to create special effects, accent texture and features of the object etc.Display lighting is like accent lighting but generally just lights the object real well so it's easily seen and stands out well.Transformers are electrical devices that change the voltage.  For example a transformer could be used to convert 115 voltage to 12 volts so that a particular lighting system that uses 12 volts could be used.  This is usually done inside the fixture and is not something for the homeowner to worry about. Dimmers are devices, usually combined with or inside a switch, that are used to vary the intensity of the light.  They can be used with many types of lighting but not all.  You would want to check with the store that furnished the lighting to be sure that you were not creating something that won't work or that could be a hazard.Halogen bulbs are very bright and do a great job bringing out the colors.  Although they cost more than incandescent bulbs, the do a better job and last up to three times as long.Xenon light bulbs are extremely bright bulbs used mainly in automotive, medical and movie projector applications.  I've never heard of any home uses.  That doesn't mean that there are none or that it's not just around the corner. The cost will of course depend on what kind of fixture(s) you choose, how many you need and perhaps mostly on how difficult it will be to get electricity to where you  need it.  If there is electricity already in the ceiling you may get by with some inexpensive track lights.  On the other hand if there is no electricity there now and the ceiling is impossible to access, it could be costly to have an electrician run the wires and hook up the lights.  Maybe wires could be hidden above the beams.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2002-03-01 15:09:00

Question:  I've noticed that in most all homes, the entry doors open inward, but in most public buildings, the entry doors open outward. Why is this?

Answer:  The basic doorway in your home has a very simple structure: A large board is attached to a frame using a few "pin" hinges. This design has a number of advantages -- it is easy to build, easy to install and easy to repair. Of course, it is also very easy to disassemble -- removing the hinge pins completely detaches the door from the frame. While this might help you out a good deal as a homeowner -- you can remove the door in order to squeeze in an over-sized couch, for example -- it's not something you want to make accessible to intruders. For this reason, the hinge mechanism needs to be positioned inside the house. With a standard hinge design, this means the door will open inward. Public buildings have the same security concerns, of course, but they also have to consider other safety factors. Unlike a private home, a public building is likely to have large numbers of people in it. In case of fire or other emergency, these people need to be evacuated as quickly and easily as possible. When a mob of people rushes an exit, it's very hard for somebody to open the door inward -- everyone pushes up against the door, and there is no room for it to open. For this reason, an effective emergency exit needs to open outward, moving with the force of the mob. This is also why a lot of emergency exits are built with wide "panic bars" instead of ordinary door knobs. The basic idea is to build the exit so even the most out-of-control mob will be able to escape. To maintain perimeter security, public exits are typically built with concealed or protected hinges, which are much harder to detach than simple pin-hinges. These doors are more expensive to install and repair, making them impractical for residential use. And as long as you don't have an unruly mob living with you, these outward-opening doors don't offer any real advantage in your home.

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Home Improvement

Wess Galyon

2002-02-01 16:27:00

Question:  What is the history behind the Home Show and what can one expect to see this year?

Answer:  The Wichita Area Builders Association has been producing the Home Show for 48 years.  It has always been a very popular local event and, over the years, has expanded to include visitors from all over Kansas.The Show maintains its popularity because consumers know that they can see just about every home related product in one location.  As we always say, it's the largest window shopping spree around.  Consumers attending the Show can compare products and conduct research right at the Show without feeling pressured.Exhibits represent home products and services for virtually every aspect of a home, from floors to ceilings, interiors and exteriors including outdoor living, decorating and improving, constructing and remodeling and more.  Whether you're considering building, remodeling or redecorating, you should be able to see it all at Home Show 2002.The Wichita Area Builders Association is a Trade Association whose membership consists of builders and persons in allied trades, industries and professions.The primary objective of the Association is to work toward providing quality, affordable housing and homeownership for the greatest number of people possible.The Association strives to promote a better understanding between the industry and the general public in regard to housing issues and acts as a liaison between the building industry and all levels of government whose actions impact efforts to maintain housing affordability.The Association promotes adherence to an industry adopted Code of Ethics and high professional standards and business priorities among its members to the mutual benefit of both the consumer and the housing industry as a whole.Homeownership strengthens the social fabric of the nation.  By encouraging civic participation and involvement in schools and communities and inspiring the upkeep and improvement of the home, homeownership fosters good citizenship.Safe, decent and comfortable housing in general, and homeownership in particular, are also a positive influence in children's lives.  Children of homeowners stay in school longer and are more likely to become productive citizens, according to a study by the University of Chicago.  The benefits to children are even more pronounced among low-income households, the study found.The nation's homeownership rate has increased dramatically during the past 50 years.  From about 44 percent at the end of World War II, it has grown to more than 64 percent.  And although some other countries may have slightly higher homeownership rates, America's homeowners live in houses that are larger, more comfortable and have more amenities than homes in any other major country.There is a lot of activity in the market and consumer confidence is improving.  Wichita is open for business, and this is an excellent one-stop-shop for consumers interested in any type of home improvement.The Home Show opens January 31, 2002 and runs through February 3, 2002 at Century II Convention Center.  Check the ad in this publication for hours and admission costs.  Remember, there is free parking and shuttle bus service from Lawrence Dumont Stadium.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2002-02-01 15:35:00

:  We have Berber carpet in our kitchen. We have found that despite the variety of colors within the carpet, it still shows stains. We enjoy having carpet in the kitchen, but are unsure if it continues to be practical. Would it be difficult to change the flooring to tile or linoleum? Could we do this ourselves?

Question:  We have Berber carpet in our kitchen. We have found that despite the variety of colors within the carpet, it still shows stains. We enjoy having carpet in the kitchen, but are unsure if it continues to be practical. Would it be difficult to change the flooring to tile or linoleum? Could we do this ourselves?Answer:  Yes and no. The preparatory work for either product is the same. The berber, padding, and tack strip all need to be removed. Once this is done, the subflooring needs to be scraped and leveled. Carpet can be installed over slight deviations in subflooring height, while hard-surface products cannot. Once the subflooring is level, underlayment needs to be installed. Depending on the manufacturers specifications for the flooring you are installing, underlayments types can vary. Underlayment is typically 1/4 inch thick, and fastened to the subfloor with nails, screws, glue, or a combination of these. Underlayment serves two main purposes. It provides a ultra-smooth surface to install on, and acts as a stabilizer by bridging subfloor joints, decreasing movement and deflection. Now we are down to the yes and no part. Ceramic tile can be installed by the homeowner. It is a relatively simple process, the most important part being the initial layout and measurements to assure a square layout. All of the tools necessary for this are available for rental at various rental stores. Vinyl, on the other hand, does require skill and experience to lay. The only vinyl I would recommend a homeowner to lay is the 12" x 12" vinyl squares. Vinyl has to be properly acclimated, tears easily, and requires very exact cutting at the seams. I would reccommend getting a professional bid for sheet vinyl.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2002-01-01 14:20:00

Question:  What are the do’s and don’ts of replacing cracked or broken ceramic tiles?

Answer:  Cracked or broken ceramic tiles that are set over drywall are difficult to replace properly. This is because the drywall is usually also damaged and may need to be repaired first.Whenever you install new ceramic tile be sure to save some tiles in case you ever need to replace a few. It's almost impossible to buy a new tile to match your existing one. Even if you can get the exact same brand and color, the color may be a little different than the ones they produced a few years ago. If a single tile has been cracked or chipped, you can usually repair it without replacing the underlayment.To replace one tile, first dig out the grout around it. Do this with a special tool called a grout saw; a utility knife works well too. For a group of tiles, dig out around the section of tiles you're replacing. Shatter the broken tile into small pieces by hitting it with a hammer and a nail set or chisel. Be sure to wear safety glasses because pieces may go flying.Pry out the pieces carefully and scrap off the grout and adhesive with a chisel or putty knife. If drywall is under your tile, be careful not to dig into it. Clean out all the debris and get the surface as clean as possible. If you're replacing a group of tiles, you should try to set them with the same type of adhesive as the original tiles. For one tile you can just use a silicone adhesive. The trick is to put the right amount of adhesive on so the tile will sit level with the rest.Press the tile into place and clean up any of the adhesive that oozes through the joints. If you're replacing a tile on a wall, tape it into place until it dries. Let the adhesive set up for the recommended amount of time.Find a grout to match that of the existing grout color. If you're only grouting a small area you can pick up a little container of premixed grout. Work the grout into the joints with a grout float; in a small area you can just use your finger. Wipe off the excess grout and use a sponge to shape the joints and remove the grout left on the tile. This is also a good time to re-grout all of the tile, especially if you're in a shower or other high-moisture area. This will also make your repair job less noticeable. Tiles have hard, sealed surfaces. Grout is porous and absorbs water, so it can get moldy. It can even let water pass through into the wall.  For these reasons tile should be sealed periodically to prevent any moisture penetration, especially in areas that are exposed to water. And grout should be replaced if it gets moldy. First clean the grout joints, then apply a silicone or water-based grout sealer to the joints. As long as the tile is glazed it's ok if you get some sealer on the tile surface, but you'll need to wipe it off before it dries. In wet areas, if grout lines have cracked there's a good chance that water has seeped through to the underlayment. And if your underlayment is drywall, there's probably some damage and it may need replacing.Cracks in dry areas probably mean settling of the underlayment or shifting with temperature changes.If cracks are small and clean, you can just press in new grout with your fingers. If cracks are large and have dirt or mildew in them, first scrap out the old grout with an awl or utility knife.Vacuum or brush out any dust or dirt from the joints. Then use a cleaner to remove any dirt, oil or soap scum. Allow it to dry.Use a mildew-resistant grout with a latex additive to grout the joints. Then clean the tiles off with a sponge and let them dry.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2002-01-01 12:33:00

Question:  I want white kitchen cabinets, and was told they are more expensive. Why is that, and what other characteristics of cabinets affect the cost?

Answer:  A number of things affect the cost of cabinets. Wood, stain, door style, and of course, construction quality. Construction quality is a separate subject itself, and we won't discuss that right now. Wood choice can affect the cost of cabinets. Typically, Oak is the lowest cost. Then upcharges will apply for Maple, Cherry, and Hickory (Pecan). Painted cabinets are usually a Maple cabinet.  It takes the stain best. Some painted cabinet doors are MDF, or medium density fiberboard. MDF is a man-made product that is molded to look like a raised panel for cabinet doors. As wood expands and contracts, a painted finish cabinet will show signs of the joints opening up. This is a natural characteristic of wood, but with a light colored painted surface, it is much more evident. Therefore, manufactures offer MDF for doors that are going to be painted. The whole door may expand and contract, but it is one unit, and does not show the signs of the joints cracking. The other reason that white cabinets are more expensive is that the finish is very unforgiving. Every little nick and blemish shows. Consequently, it is much more labor intensive to obtain a defect free finish. Door overlay also affect the cost of cabinets. Full overlay doors are the most expensive. Full overlay is when the door and drawer cover almost all of the frame of the front of the cabinet. This produces a much more unified or 'custom' look. It is also more difficult to get all the doors and drawers aligned properly so the minimal gaps between them are consistent. Standard overlay is when about 1" of the frame show all around the cabinet door and drawer. This is the least expensive, and is most popular in homes built since the 60's. Modified overlay is when the drawer is standard and the door is full overlay. Cost will fall in the middle for these cabinets.Question:  My kitchen is in the interior of my house, with no windows. How can I get it brighter? Answer:  Three things come to mind. First, is a skylight an option? Even a skylight on the north side of the house will bring in a lot of natural light. Second, is to put a ‘pass through’ into a room that has a lot of natural light. While the light that comes ‘through’ the opening may not be a lot, just being able to see out to the other area will make the kitchen more enjoyable. Third, consider the light source. Fluorescent lights tend to give off a very artificial light color. Think about installing recessed lights around the kitchen, and install halogen bulbs. These will give off very white light closer to sunlight.  Don’t be afraid of putting too many fixtures in a kitchen, then putting them on a dimmer.  It is much better to have too much light and dim it down, than not to have enough.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2001-12-01 16:44:00

Question: Our problem is the shower in our master bathroom. For some reason mildew accumulates more so on the tile and grout than any other shower in any of the other bathrooms. When we use a mildew remover, the grouting almost feels like it gets soft. Before we get into a major change out, I was wondering if there is something that will clean it like new, then seal it all, without changing everything out?

Answer:  It sounds to me like your primary problem is good air flow.  It takes a lot of airflow in order for a shower to dry out quickly and properly.  In my home, I have a shower that has the same problem you have, and ones that do not.  The one that does has an opening of 18"x30" at the top.  This small area will not let enough air in the shower for it to dry quickly, causing mildew.  My other showers have three times the open space and I have never had a problem.  I would suggest you clean the tile and grout with any household tile/grout cleaner, then seal it with a product called Aqua-Mix water-based sealer.  It is available at most home centers.  This, in conjunction with either leaving the shower door open for a short time after use, or the use of a shower squeegee on the walls after use will stop most of the problem.  As far as the grout softening, un-sanded wall grout will soften some when it is wet.  It shouldn't come out in clumps, but may come out slightly during heavy duty cleaning.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2001-12-01 13:57:00

Question: We need more space! Is it worth it to put an addition on our 50-year old house, or are we better off buying a bigger house?

Answer: The answer to this question involves personal decisions on the following issues that you should consider. First, do you really enjoy your home, your neighbors and your neighborhood, including its location in proximity to work, school, shopping, church and transportation? In other words, do you really want to stay in this home if you can overcome the typical problems with an addition as identified below? Assuming your answer to the first part is yes, you now need to involve a remodeling professional to give you advice as to the design, costs, feasibility and complications involved with the addition. Special attention must be given to your property and its non-buildable areas reserved for front, rear and side setbacks required by codes. Also, are there any underground utilities in the way of the addition? Is there sufficient accessibility to the site? And how will tie-ins to the existing home be accomplished, not only structurally, but aesthetically so it doesn't look like it was added on? Assuming you don't have unavoidable problems preventing your addition, you need to weigh the estimated total costs of the remodeling project from two angles. First, of course, is how will you be able to afford to pay for it. Do you have sufficient cash savings, or will you have to explore the costs of a first or second mortgage loan? It is fairly easy and common for homeowners to obtain a home equity line of credit (usually tax deductible) at a relatively low cost to pay for these improvements. Second, consider whether your neighborhood will support the cost of your project. Are there more expensive homes on your street? If so, you're more likely to receive a better return on your remodeling investment than if your home is already at the higher end of property values in your neighborhood. But don't just look at the costs; consider the enjoyment you will receive from your "new" home. You need the increased space. You like your home and your neighborhood. And it will cost you thousands of dollars to move - usually 10 to 15 percent of your home's value after sales commission, title fees, loan and closing costs, and moving expenses. Adding a well-designed, well-built addition makes great sense if the above factors apply.   For instance, take a look at these cost vs. value comparisons:   Master suite - 24' x 16' including master bedroom w/ walk-in closet and master bath w/dressing area and whirlpool tub, separate ceramic tile shower and double bowl vanity... approximate cost to build in Wichita $53,795.00 - cost recoup 65%.Family room - 16' x 25' including drywall interior with batt insulation, tongue and groove hardwood floor and 180 sq. ft. of glazing (including windows, atrium-style exterior doors and two operable skylights... approximate cost to build in Wichita $40,026. - cost recoup 64%.    Consult with a remodeling professional in your area that you can trust to give you accurate advice.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2001-11-01 15:07:00

Question: What types of questions should a remodeling contractor ask me when I call for an estimate? As I am going forward with a current remodeling project, it seems some questions asked of me by some of the contractors are a bit premature.

Answer:  A contractor should have you explain the project, a little about your house, and something about yourself. Contractors should ask you about a time frame in which you want the project completed. Good contractors can have a backlog of as much as 3 to 6 months.  If you need it done in 3 weeks, this will be an important topic of discussion.  Budget is sometimes a touchy subject for contractors and homeowners alike. Often times, homeowners have no idea what a project will cost.  Reputable contractors ask the $$ question to see if the homeowner is in the ‘ballpark’ of having enough money to do the project. Most will provide a range of costs. For example, if you call me and inquire about a kitchen remodel, and you think you want to take out a wall, have new lighting, flooring, countertops and cabinets installed, I’m going to tell you it will cost in the range of $18,000 to $35,000. That may be the first time you thought about a budget.  Invariably, people feel it can be done for half of whatever is quoted.  That's when lots of people suddenly get a budget in mind. The range of course depends upon the products that are used to the job.  It doesn’t take any longer to install the best cabinets and countertops on the market than those of less quality.  If the homeowner feels the job should be done for half of the range, we probably don’t have to much to talk about... unless they are not going to do part of the job.  Just because you tell a professional contractor your budget for a project, doesn't mean he will adjust his price accordingly. He has a cost to do a project, and 9 times out of 10 it is usually higher than what you tell him your budget is... Murphy's Law of Remodeling... I guess.Question:  What can I, as a homeowner, expect to do while a remodeling project is being done at my house?Answer:  The most important thing you can do is ASK QUESTIONS. If there is something that doesn’t look right, or you think you ordered one thing, and something else is being installed... ASK!! A contractor wants to know if things are not right immediately. There are no dumb questions.  Remember... IT'S YOUR MONEY. Remember too... there will be dust and dirt in your house. It doesn't matter how careful the contractor is...  expect it. Make it easy for the contractor to have access to your house. There will be times when he will have to leave and come back. Give him a key if possible. It will make your life easier to schedule. If you are remodeling a kitchen, plan to eat out a lot during the project. Most kitchen projects take 4-6 weeks. Here are couple of other ideas worthy of your consideration:When remodeling a kitchen, arrange ahead of time with your contractor to have the refrigerator set up in an alternate location, away from the dust and dirt. If you are remodeling a bathroom, and it is your only bathroom, make arrangements to have the toilet reset each day it is pulled.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2001-10-01 17:30:00

Question: We live in a fairly exclusive neighborhood around an old golf course with mature trees. Recently a house was auctioned off down the street. Everything about the house was old and sorely in need of remodeling. It also had a cedar shake shingle roof that needed to be replaced. It looked to us like it would cost at least half as much or more as the house sold for at auction ($165,000) to bring it up to date. Does it ever make sense to spend this kind of money in remodeling? How do you know how much to spend? Is there a formula? Will you ever get back what you spend in remodeling were you to re-sell the home?

Answer:  In answer to your first question, you first have to determine whether you are remodeling with resale value totally in mind or remodeling with resale value as absolutely irrelevant.  People undertake most remodeling projects because those projects meet their lifestyle needs.  They become concerned about getting a reasonable payback if they're planning to sell soon.In regards to the return on a remodeling investment, you have to take into consideration the value of the home, its value in relation to the neighborhood, and the neighborhood itself.  Over-improvement happens when homeowners end up spending far more on a remodeling project than they could ever hope to get back in resale.  Example:  the $75,000 kitchen remodel which is an excellent investment bet in a neighborhood of half-million-dollar homes, yet a clunker in one where homes are valued at, say $100,000.  On the other hand, big-ticket home improvements are not strictly for the well-to-do.  Remodeling smaller or less expensive houses not only adds or improves square footage but it can boost resale price.  As a rule of thumb, the better the house and neighborhood, the more value a remodeling project returns.  It's hard to "over-improve" good houses in good neighborhoods at excellent locations.To give you an example of cost vs. value, depending on the region of the country you live in, the national average of the cost recouped on a minor kitchen remodeling is 88%.  A minor kitchen remodel can include replacing floors, countertops and cabinet facings, as well as installing a new energy-efficient oven and cook top, and adding a coat of paint.Another good example is a bath remodel, one of the first rooms potential buyers check out first.  The average nationwide cost to update an existing 5-by-9-foot bathroom installing a new standard-sized tub, toilet and solid-surface vanity counter with integral double sink, new lighting, faucets, mirrored medicine cabinet, ceramic tile floor and ceramic tile walls in the tub/shower area (vinyl wallpaper elsewhere) is $9,748, with a cost recoup of 81%.As far as getting back what you spend on remodeling were you to re-sell your home, you have to again consider the trend among today's buyers.  It’s called the "no hassle factor."  One of the things that make quality remodeling so valuable is that buyers in today's resale market want a home in ‘move-in’ condition.  People are busy.  They don't have time to fix or repair things.  Many would rather be doing something else.  Recently an real estate agent showing a client through a house listing for $395,000 that needed new paint, new carpeting , a new kitchen and new bathrooms.  She told her client that the house was a great buy for someone willing to do the work.  The busy client replied that if it had been five years ago, he'd have jumped on it.  Today he was too busy.  He bought a similar sized house that was beautifully fixed up, and cost more than $500,000.  Improvements count for more now than they do in a sluggish market.  Buyers are ready, willing and able to spend more on the extras that differentiate one house from another.  Most homes in an area are similar, and it's the ones that have been renovated that will sell before the ones that have not.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2001-09-01 11:37:00

Question:  We need more living space.  It appears our only answer is converting our garage.  Is it possible to do so without it still looking like a garage from the outside?  Can it blend seamless with the rest of the House?

Answer:  Yes it is possible for your conversion to blend, if it is done properly.The largest challenge a professional contractor faces when doing garage conversions is that when they drive away from the completed project there is no appearance of work having been done.   We would remove the driveway.  We recommend removing a minimum of 6' to 8' of driveway and reconfiguring the approach sidewalk if necessary.The first thing to consider is the use of the living area.  Will you be incorporating it into the existing Living Room, making it into a Family or Recreation Room, or using it as a Bedroom and Bath?All of these may be considered but remember, in most areas of the country, there are different building codes pertaining to the use of an area as a bedroom.  A window must meet certain "exit" requirements. If a bath or wet bar area is to be installed, the concrete floor will need to be removed.  A crawl space must be excavated for installation of plumbing and HAVC requirements.  In most cases the electrical will have to be upgraded to codes for Living Area versus garage area.Most professional contractors have state of the art design systems.  This gives them the ability to generate computer printouts and drawings, allowing you the opportunity to "see" your conversion.  Changes can be made with prior to beginning the project.  The next step in the process of incorporating your garage area into the home begins with closing the garage door area.  A footing and stem wall is poured and the opening is framed in.  This is the ideal place to install a window or set of windows.  A floor system is installed to bring the floor level of the garage up to match the floor level of the existing house.   A vapor barrier and treated wood are required on concrete.  This is accomplished with the floor trusses.  A  floor decking is then glued and nailed down.  Your choices of floor coverings are practically unlimited.The doorway size between the garage and house can be changed to accommodate any number of door selections.  Also, you may want to have the opening cased and left open to the interior of the house.The electrical wiring, and heating/air ductwork can be installed before the walls are closed.Insulation is installed and then the walls and ceiling are sheetrocked.  There are any number of finishes that can be applied to the walls and the ceiling.  Now it is time to finish the exterior of your room.  Here lies one of the biggest challenges for the contractor.  This  should have been discussed with the homeowner at the very beginning of the project.  The homeowner would have a choice of blending with the existing material on the house, or to make changes.  If the contractor is unable to locate material to match the existing structure and cover the garage door opening, there are still a number of options.If matching siding material can not be found, you may want to incorporate a brick wainscot, or update and change the front exterior by rebuilding it from corner to corner.  New and different siding may be selected or you may want to change the  look completely.  Some of your choices include, brick, stone or drivet.Last but not least, the contractor’s final step will be to bring in topsoil and back fill the area so that the ground will be ready for the homeowner to handle the landscaping,   You will want your home and new garage conversion to be aesthetically pleasing to you and your surrounding neighborhood.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2001-09-01 11:07:00

Question: The threshold at our front door is rotting out. It is nearly 40years old. How much of a job is it to replace? How do I remove the old without damaging the door casing?

Answer:  The first step would be to be absolutely certain that the sides of the door frame are not also rotten.  Many times the rot starts at the junction of the threshold(or door sill) and the upright portion of the door frame.  If this is the case it may be easier and produce a better end result if you replace the entire door frame.If the uprights are solid and the sill is rotten you must first detach the sill from the uprights.  Before the door was installed, the sill was nailed to the uprights from the bottom,  Using a hack saw, cut horizontally through the joint between the sill and each upright.  Once this is done it should be easy to knock the sill out from the interior side.  Sawing through the sill somewhere near the middle may make this job easier.The new sill can now be put in place of the old one and since you can't nail from the bottom like the original, you'll have to nail or screw the new sill to the floor.  Be sure to caulk all the joints and seams and paint all exposed surfaces to protect all wood parts from water.  In fact, if the new sill has not already been primed, you might want to prime all four sides and especially both ends before installing it.If the old sill is thicker than the new one, you have the option of making a new one out of thicker material or shimming under the ready made one.  Be sure to use cedar or plastic shims so they don't deteriorate. If more thickness is needed use a solid piece of wood milled to the exact thickness needed.  I don't recommend plywood because of the possibility of delamination.

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Home Improvement

Jay Wycoff

2001-09-01 10:14:00

Question: We have pulled out all of the carpeting on the main floor of our house. The original floor is hardwood. We have decided that it may be neat to refinish the original floor as it is in relatively decent shape, although there are some trouble spots including many staples, some chipping, and some water-stains...especially near the front-door entrance. Some of these stains are somewhat black in color.  How would you go about this project? 

Answer:  I'm guessing that if the stains were removed or at least lightened considerably, that after sanding, a bit of stain might neutralize the stained areas to match the greater part of the floor. Am I anywhere near reality here?  Also, advice on preparation products and techniques would be appreciated. By the way, the floor is vintage 1964 and looks to be a medium pine color.Answer:You are quite near to reality.  In fact, hard surfaces, especially natural wood floors are dramatically increasing as the choice for many people as they consider remodeling projects for their home.  Ease of maintenance, cleanability, warmth and look of nature make wood floors a beautiful accent to any home.  Refinishing wood floors is a very normal procedure.  Most actively used floors require some kind of refinishing over time.  Your case poses several challenges but nothing that can't be overcome.  The major two problems on this job are the water damage and the nails.  Most water damage that has turned the floor black cannot be sanded out and those boards will need to be replaced unless the stains are small and add character to the floor.  If it is determined that they do need to be replaced most professional installers can do this.  The second issue is with the nails and staples.  They must be removed to keep from damaging the sanding equipment and causing future rust spots in the floor.  Small chips, cracks, imperfections and nail holes should go away after sanding and filling the floor.  Another option would be to replace the edges with a boarder or a medallion.  This can be done for much less then replacing the entire floor.  When it comes to finishing your floor, stains and finishes can be blended to give just about any look the homeowner wants.  Natural wood floors enhance a room with warmth and elegance like no other flooring.  Wood is one flooring option that actually can improve with time.  Investments made in a new wood floor or restoring one and regular maintenance will pay dividends in enjoyment and improve the value of just about any home.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2001-07-01 16:07:00

Question:  My wife and I have a beautiful home.  We love to show it off.  The only problem is that we feel our kitchen is too small, from both an aesthetic standpoint and functionality.  This problem is further complicated by the fact that we have no room to do a room addition.  What can we do?

Answer:   This happens more frequently than you might imagine.  There are several ways to enlarge or enhance a kitchen when there is no room to do a room addition.Today's kitchen trend is toward opening the kitchen onto living rooms, family rooms and dining rooms.  More and more people are moving away from the living room and gathering in the kitchen.One solution is to borrow the space from the rest of the house.  Many times there will be a closet, porch or bedroom that is no longer needed, that can be used to enlarge the space.  Sometimes people will feel this is not possible because a wall is load-bearing.  Normally this is not a problem because a beam can be installed either below the ceiling joist or in the attic to carry the weight so the wall can be removed.  The space can be separated by an island or peninsula, which still allows for storage space, which opens up the area.  This may mean one less wall for appliances or cabinets, but with the replacement of older, less-functional cabinets with newer, more space-utilizing cabinets... the loss will be negligible.  The use of built-in appliances can also save space.  With choices from a built-in blender, microwave, or coffee pot, to a side-by-side refrigerator, your design options are endless.Cabinet costs can vary from the low end... by replacing door and drawer fronts with solid wood and adding new formica counter tops and backsplash... to the higher end with solid wood boxes, as well as solid wood door and drawer fronts and adding hard surface counter tops such as Corian or Granite.  Custom cabinets can blend with your existing cabinets or you can completely change your style.Then again, you may want to change the lay out of the existing kitchen and install new cabinets throughout.  There are many new styles available now that can increase the usable storage space and make things more accessible.You can add visual space by opening up door ways.  This not only gives the impression of more space, but it can also create a better traffic flow in and around your kitchen.  You may even consider doing away with door openings altogether.All of these options may be ‘seen’ prior to work beginning by having  computer design layouts printed.  This gives you a visual concept of what the possibilities.Sometimes just making the kitchen ‘feel larger’ can work.  You can accomplish this by adding a skylight or bay window at the sink, to let in more light, visually giving the feeling of more spaciousness. You can also add a fireplace area, making your kitchen a more inviting center point for socializing.It is also good to mention that remodeling a kitchen can make good economic sense.  No matter what you choose to do in updating your kitchen, the return on investment in the Midwest, stated in the nationally recognized magazine Remodeling, is 72% for major remodel and 78% for minor remodel.  These percentages are even higher in Wichita.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2001-07-01 12:31:00

Question:  We have a beautiful and rustic brick home just south of El Dorado.  We would like to add a deck.  Our friends have told us this can be somewhat complex.  How do we do it?

Answer:  Adding a deck to a home is usually a great investment   When the weather is nice, it's like having another room in your house.  If done right, it can add more than its cost to the resale value of your home.The key to doing it right is to plan every step out in as great detail as you can.  Decks can be as simple as a 10 ft. by 10 ft. flat square or as complicated as your lot, budget and imagination can handle.  A really good plan can help you set your budget and give you the confidence you need to move ahead.  A good plan will also help you explain to your buddies what it is they're helping you build.Attaching the deck to a brick house is a little more complicated than attaching one to a frame house, but not so difficult that it should stop you from having the deck you want.  In either case, one of the first things you do is attach a ledger board to the house.  The ledger board will be a 2 X 8 or 2 x 10 that your deck joists will frame into.It is important to get the ledger board set correctly because it determines how big a step down from the floor of your home you'll have and it secures your deck to the house.  It's recommended that you place the top of your ledger about two to four inches below the bottom of the door sill of your home.  Remember to allow enough room between the ledger and the sill for your deck material.Attaching the ledger to a brick home is done with 3/8 inch lag bolts screwed into lag shields in the mortar joints.  The mortar joints provide more holding power than the bricks themselves and if you ever make changes, mortar joints are easier to patch than the brick.  There should be two lag screws about four inches from each end of the ledger and one about every 16 to 24 inches in between.  It's a good idea to drill the holes in the ledger first and then temporarily attach the ledger with some makeshift bracing while you drill into the mortar joints using the ledger for a template.Some people like to build their deck without attaching it to the house at all.  They simply place piers and posts under the side nearest the house just like they do in the middle and the side farthest from the house.  There are two major caveats with that plan.  First, the deck may actually move away from the house.  Second, the piers nearest the house will be on fill while the others will be on undisturbed soil.  So, unless your home is really old you could get some uneven settling and you definitely do not want this.  Ask the people at the building material supplier where you buy your components.  They will be glad to help you with all of your questions and concerns.  Technology has made it so some can even design the deck on their computer while you are there and provide you with a 3- D drawing, material list, and a very close estimate of the  costs.

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Home Improvement

Art Bryan

2001-07-01 09:02:00

:  My wife and I have a beautiful home.  We love to show it off.  The only problem is that we feel our kitchen is too small, from both an aesthetic standpoint and functionality.  This problem is further complicated by the fact that we have no room to do a room addition.  What can we do?

Art Bryan Question:  My wife and I have a beautiful home.  We love to show it off.  The only problem is that we feel our kitchen is too small, from both an aesthetic standpoint and functionality.  This problem is further complicated by the fact that we have no room to do a room addition.  What can we do?Answer:   This happens more frequently than you might imagine.  There are several ways to enlarge or enhance a kitchen when there is no room to do a room addition.Today's kitchen trend is toward opening the kitchen onto living rooms, family rooms and dining rooms.  More and more people are moving away from the living room and gathering in the kitchen.One solution is to borrow the space from the rest of the house.  Many times there will be a closet, porch or bedroom that is no longer needed, that can be used to enlarge the space.  Sometimes people will feel this is not possible because a wall is load-bearing.  Normally this is not a problem because a beam can be installed either below the ceiling joist or in the attic to carry the weight so the wall can be removed.  The space can be separated by an island or peninsula, which still allows for storage space, which opens up the area.  This may mean one less wall for appliances or cabinets, but with the replacement of older, less-functional cabinets with newer, more space-utilizing cabinets... the loss will be negligible.  The use of built-in appliances can also save space.  With choices from a built-in blender, microwave, or coffee pot, to a side-by-side refrigerator, your design options are endless.Cabinet costs can vary from the low end... by replacing door and drawer fronts with solid wood and adding new formica counter tops and backsplash... to the higher end with solid wood boxes, as well as solid wood door and drawer fronts and adding hard surface counter tops such as Corian or Granite.  Custom cabinets can blend with your existing cabinets or you can completely change your style.Then again, you may want to change the lay out of the existing kitchen and install new cabinets throughout.  There are many new styles available now that can increase the usable storage space and make things more accessible.You can add visual space by opening up door ways.  This not only gives the impression of more space, but it can also create a better traffic flow in and around your kitchen.  You may even consider doing away with door openings altogether.All of these options may be ‘seen’ prior to work beginning by having  computer design layouts printed.  This gives you a visual concept of what the possibilities.Sometimes just making the kitchen ‘feel larger’ can work.  You can accomplish this by adding a skylight or bay window at the sink, to let in more light, visually giving the feeling of more spaciousness. You can also add a fireplace area, making your kitchen a more inviting center point for socializing.It is also good to mention that remodeling a kitchen can make good economic sense.  No matter what you choose to do in updating your kitchen, the return on investment in the Midwest, stated in the nationally recognized magazine Remodeling, is 72% for major remodel and 78% for minor remodel.  These percentages are even higher in Wichita.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2001-05-01 10:25:00

Question: Our children have overtaken the first floor of our house with their toys. We would like to create a recreation room for them in our basement. How do we go about starting this project?

Answer:  Finishing a basement can be a very cost effective way to add usable living space.  The space is already there, as are the floor ceiling joist and most of the walls.  Also, basement area is easy to heat and cool and usually your existing furnace and air conditioner are sufficient.The first step is to determine how much money you are willing or able to spend on the project.The second step would be to decide if you want to or are able to do the work yourself.  If you decide that you'd rather not, an experienced sales person at your building material supply store can steer you toward several good remodelers.  The Wichita Area Builders Association remodelers council is also a good source of reputable companies.The third step would be to decide what you would like.  How will it look?  What features, bathroom, bar, sound proofing etc. would you like to include?.  It will be a place for the kids to play now, but what changes will you want to make as they grow up?  You can get ideas from events like the Parade of Homes or from decorator and design magazines.  If you decide to use a remodeler, he can also give you some great and up-to-date ideas.Finally, visit your building supply store to get information about the cost and availability of the materials you'll need.  If at this point you've decided to handle the project yourself, an experienced sales person can help you estimate the quantity and cost of all the materials you'll need.  He or she can also make suggestions on how to save money and time as well as make the job easier and more rewarding.  He or she will also be able to ‘hold your hand’ through the more difficult procedures.It's a good idea to let the sales person know up front as much as you can about the size and scope of the project as well as your budget.  If your sales person is under the impression that getting the job done as cheaply as possible is your main concern, you may miss out on some really nice improvements that cost just a little bit more.  On the other hand, you do not want to run short of money before the project is complete because you over spent at the beginning.It's also a good idea to check with Wichita Central Inspection or Sedgwick County building Code Enforcement departments to see what, if any, building permits you might need.This may seem like a lot to do before you even drive the first nail, but having a good plan before you start can save you time, money and a lot of headaches further into the project.

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Home Improvement

Mike Goebel

2001-05-01 10:25:00

Question: We are wanting to do everything we can to lower our energy bills this winter. We know we probably need a little more insulation in the attic and want to check all of the doors and windows for leaks. What are some of the other things we can do that will lower our bills?

Answer:  If you do indeed have too little insulation in your attic, that is a good place to start.  A well insulated attic not only cuts down your energy bills but makes your home more comfortable by reducing or eliminating hot spots in the summer and cold spots in the winter.  An R value of 30 is probably the point of diminishing returns for the Wichita area.  Any more insulation than that will never save enough energy to pay for itself.While you're checking out your attic, look to see that you have enough ventilation.  Contrary to what many people think, closing up you attic in the winter does not save you energy and can cause your insulation to become wet and settle making it less effective and even cause structural problems and a health hazard.  Every home should have  one square foot of vent for every 300 square feet of living space.  Some of your vents should be low (in your soffits for example), and some (at least 50%) should be high, close to or right on your ridge.  This combination allows air to flow naturally through your attic so that moisture cannot accumulate.  If all of your ventilation is high or low you will need twice as much ventilation to do the job.Don't forget crawl spaces if your home has them.  Plastic sheeting should be placed on the ground to prevent moisture from rising up.  It is generally more effective to insulate the stem walls than it is the floor itself.  Another thing to look for in your home is air leaks.  There are a lot of places where this can occur, but the most common ones are faulty weather striping on your doors and old warn out windows that seem to let more in than they keep out.The answer to the door problem is a new set of weather strip on each offending door.  Be sure to caulk around all the doors and windows, being careful not to create a situation where water can get in but not out.The answer to the problem windows could be storm windows but many times replacing the old Junkers is the best answer.  Some of the new vinyl replacements can give you a lot of comfort  for a reasonable price.If replacement windows or new storm windows are not in your budget you can install inexpensive clear plastic sheets made for this purpose.  If installed correctly they can actually work better than many storm windows and last at least one or two seasons.  They are not suitable for windows that you need to open from time to time.Be careful that your quest for a tighter house does not cause you to not have enough fresh air to support combustion in your furnace and fireplace, or enough fresh air for good health.Check the air filters in you furnace regularly. When they get clogged the motor has to work much harder and uses more electricity.If your furnace and air conditioner are more than ten years old, you might talk to a qualified heating and air company about the possible savings of a much more efficient system.  This is especially true if your maintenance costs are creeping up.Your water heater can also be an energy hog.  Try to get by with the thermostat set as low as practical.  This not only saves energy but is safer and makes the heater last longer.  Periodically drain some water off the bottom of the tank to prevent sediment from building up and causing inefficient operation.When it's time to replace the water heater, buy the most energy efficient model that you can.If you have any hot water pipes or heat ducts passing through unheated places, be sure they are well insulated.If you have a fireplace, close the damper or glass door when not in use.  You might consider a highly efficient gas log insert.  These units are sealed behind glass thereby drawing no warm air out of your house and sending it up the chimney.  Some of these units are about 70% efficient as opposed to a regular fireplace which can be almost zero efficient.Some other places to look for energy loss are around your switch and receptacle plates.  Electrical boxes are not always insulated well and create a direct path through the wall and right to the outside with nothing to stop energy flow but a little sheathing and siding.  Home centers sell little foam pads made especially for this problem and they work surprisingly well for their size and cost.In the summer time, one of the worst things you can do besides leaving the doors open, is leaving lights on when they are not needed.  Experts say that for every dollar you waste on unneeded light another fifty cents is wasted cooling the air that the light bulbs heated.  While lights help heat the house in the winter time, it is a very inefficient way to do it so the best policy is to turn off the lights when they are not needed.Getting used to having your home a little warmer in the summer time and a little cooler in the winter can help also.  Setting back thermostats can help a lot for families that leave their homes empty for several hours each day.  Clothes driers produce a lot of heat and humidity, two things we want in the winter time and yet most of us vent those products outside.  There is a myriad of products on the market to help reclaim the heat and humidity without causing a health hazard.  Most of the inexpensive ones however require careful monitoring to keep them clean and working properly.These represent a few of the more important things you can do.  Think about each one as an opportunity to make your home more comfortable and save some money.  Then begin... one at a time.

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Home Improvement

Marvin Niedens

1969-12-31 18:00:00

Question: I have heard from various places that flat paint and ceiling textures that have been in place for a number of years can absorb the light that is available in a room. Is this true? How much does that affect things?

Answer: The answer to your first question is absolutely yes they do. The main reason that the loss of light occurs is the settlement dust that accumulates on the rough surface of these areas. Now you might think that a wall, being a horizontal surface, would not collect much dirt and pollution. While they do not get as grimy as a surface facing up, they can be dirty if they have been there for a while. The light reflecting from these surfaces is like the reflection in a foggy mirror. A good way to test the walls in your home is to take a clean, damp, white cloth and reach up on your own wall as high as you can reach and lightly wipe a one foot by one foot area. Then, imagine what you see on the wipe cloth times 400 (the wall area in a 12’x 14’ room excluding the ceiling area). That is the amount of light absorbing pollution and dirt on just walls in your room. Flat paint used on most walls and ceilings is really nothing more than gloss paint with talcum powder added. The talcum comes to the surface as the paint dries, thus giving you the “foggy mirror” look. The obvious comment would be, “In order to get more light…why don’t I just go wipe down the walls and ceilings?” The answer is, you will never get it all. Further, you can never change the talcum coming to the surface after the paint dries. Cleanliness on ceilings is a little tougher to check unless you have a smooth painted ceiling. Most people don’t. We have estimated that since ceilings usually have some sort of texture, the pollution collected on them is at lest twice that of your walls. The amount of light absorbed or lost on these surfaces can vary depending on how dirty they are but it can be as much as 25% of the light in your room.